Action ARUNDEL TWIN Manual

Technical Information:
Number of people required for assembly: 2 to include a good handyman
Guide time for assembly: approx 6-8 hours for the full unit
The Arundel needs 3 bags of instant mix concrete (post-Crete) or similar allowing 1/2 bag per hole.
(available from most hardware shops or builders merchants)
NOTE: USE THE DRILL BIT PROVIDED TO PRE-DRILL ALL THE SCREW HOLES TO AVOID SPLITTING THE
TIMBER. You may want to use a countersink drill bit to give the screw holes a superior finish
Your climbing frame can be stored outside until you are ready to assemble the unit, we recommend
storing it near the place you are looking to build it.
To allow trapped moisture to evaporate cut back the shrink wrap packaging but be careful not to
lose any parts. Slight cracks may appear in the wood at any time after delivery, this is due to the
natural working of the wood and is normal. If moisture is trapped under the plastic you will
sometimes find mould spots present, this will wipe away and have no long term effects.
Contents: Packs Required:
1) Construct the Tower JE2071/1 x 2
JE2071/2 x 2
JE2071/3 x 2
JE2058 (sandpit)
2) Attach the Clatterbridge JE2157/1
JE2157/2
2) Attach the Commando Net JE2153
3) Attach the Swing beam JE2550
4) Attach the slide JE2515
5) Attach the swing seats (boxed separately)
NB: Cracking will not affect the tower's structural stability. Surfaces of the wood have been planed
but you may find small splinters around drill holes which can easily be sanded away.

Where to start: Firstly dig the holes for the uprights:
Lay your platform base on the ground at the chosen position. Using a spirit level find the highest
corner, this will be your first hole. If the difference in height between one side of the platform and
the other is greater than 75mm you should level off the ground or consider moving your frame to a
more level place in the garden.
Take a 50mm slice of lawn and put it to one side for return later. Dig the first hole to 300mm deep
and about 300mm square. (a useful note is to place the removed soil on to a plastic sheet to
minimise clearing up afterwards) Move on to digging the next hole - use the tip below for getting the
holes level. Once you have dug the corner holes then dig the final hole for the front central upright
in the same way.
TIP: Digging all the holes to be level involves a simple trick using 2 equal balustrade pieces and a
spirit level. Stand one balustrade upright in your first (measured) hole and the second upright in the
next hole. Place your spirit level on top of these two pieces (if your level is not long enough then
please use a straight piece of wood rested on top of the balustrades and then put the level on top of
this). Adjust the depth of the second hole either by further digging or adding back some soil until
your spirit level reads correctly. Once this hole is complete do the same to the other holes in turn.
Always use the first hole as the reference point. When finished NO hole should be less than 300mm
deep, if it is your ground is too steep and you need to level off the platform area. The reason for this
is that your slide needs to be on a platform 1.5m (or 1.2m with some models)above the ground. If
the height is more or less than this creates stress on the slide platform mount and in severe cases
can lead to fracture of the slide at this point. A failure that would not be covered by warranty.

You may also find this video link helpful showing you how to prepare the holes:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bDqh-mwi0w8
Please note there are 2 packs of each of the following:

Building the Tower: (Page 5)
Building the tower is best accomplished lying on its side. Lay out the four uprights in pairs with their
ends close to the holes you have prepared. Align the platform in the same direction as the slide will
end up when you have finished, this then orients the uprights and their bolt holes.
The platform bolts pass through the holes closest to the ground, the holes slightly higher up are for
mounting the accessories. Stand the platform upright and bolt the platform to the two uprights lying

on the ground. Repeat with the other two uprights with one end resting on the ground and the other
ends pointing towards the sky. Tighten the bolts firmly but at this stage do not over do the tightness.
Attaching the Balustrades: (Page 6)
Pre-build your balustrades on the ground as squarely as possible rather than trying to build them on
the tower frames. You will notice the screws are diagonally offset. The purpose of this is to reduce
splits and create a stronger fixing, by not having screws running in line along the grain of the wood.
TIP: Attach the two outside left & right balustrade rails first, following the measurements in the
diagram. Only use one screw at each end for now.
Then check for squareness, to do this measure the diagonal distance from top left to bottom right of
the finished balustrade. This should measure the same as the diagonal distance from the bottom left
to top right. If not adjust the frame to make both measurements the same. Now fit the other two
screws in to each part D already fixed. You can now proceed and fix all remaining part D's.
TIP: To ensure the distance between each balustrade rail is kept the same, you may find it easier to
make two small pieces of wood 35mm wide, to use as spacers top and bottom.
Before attaching the balustrades to the tower you will need to decide on the layout of your
accessories. Then attach the balustrades to the sides of the platform you want to close off. You will
then need to attach the further support rails to line up with the balustrades.

Attaching the Ladder: (Page 7)
Attach parts H to I to make up the ladder. This can now be attached to part j which in turn is
attached to the tower uprights.

Attaching the Roof: (Page 8)
We recommend building the roof structure while you have the tower laying on the floor. Prop the
tower off the ground slightly using either bricks or the swing beam (whatever available). Build the
two roof structure supports using the Gables (E) and the triangles (G). Make sure the two angled
ends of the rafters are butted up to each other before fixing the triangle plate. This forms the rafter
truss - try to make sure both sides are identical. Now attach these to the uprights, please note the
edge should be slightly above the end of the uprights. Before fixing the trusses. ensure the uprights
are 83cm apart centre to centre.
Finally prepare your roof timbers (F). Hold one piece of part F against the bottom of the two roof
gables with the edge overhanging equally on each side. Mark the outside edge of each gable (in
pencil) onto part F. Pre-drill your screw holes about 1cm inwards from these marks and about 2-3cm
from top and bottom. Use this piece F to pre-drill the other roof slats.
Start at the peak of the roof and attach a part F by lining up the lines you have previously drawn on
indicating the outside edges of the gables. You may need to pull the gables apart/together to get
them parallel and lined up with the pencil marks. Gradually build the roof downwards completing
one side fully then the other.

Attaching the Sandpit:
Pre-drill the sandpit sides Parts A about 30mm from each end and central. Mark with a pencil 35cm
from the lower end of your uprights and attach four sandpit sides flush with these marks, using
screws (1). Add the second and third layers of the sides above the one already fitted. Ensure the
frame is square before fitting the seats (parts B) with 2 x 60cm screws (1) at each end.
TIP: To achieve a neat appearance never drive your screws hard into the timber but endeavour to
leave the screw head flush with the surface.
Attaching the Clatterbridge:
Components:
12 x (A) 30x65/89.5cm
2 x (B) 20x120/52cm
32 x (1) 5 x 60mm

Attaching the Commando Net:
ATTENTION: Allow a minimum of 2 metres space around the play centre and ensure that the area
is free from other obstacles such as trees and branches, garden lights and other play equipment.
If you are building a single tower, the diagram does not show the sandpit for clarity. Attach the top
rail (part A) to the two uprights of the tower. Using 2 x m10 x 110mm bolts, washers and nuts. Tie
the commando net to the top rail, making sure the gap between the top rung is of the net and the
rail is less than 90mm. Use a double knot on each rope to give extra strength. now fill the bottom rail
(part B)with 4 x 60mm screws. When fitting the lower commando net rail (part B) first remove the
bottom sandpit side. Lay the beam in its correct position, mark with a spade and dig out a shallow
trench. Lay the beam into this trench and screw firmly in place. Any gaps under the beam should be
re-filled with soil or sand and pack firmly, but before doing so attach your commando net, again
using a double knot.
BEWARE: When tying the ropes to the top commando rail (part A) make sure that the gap
between the top rung of the net is even and the gap less than 9cm to avoid accidental head
entrapment.

Components & Hardware:
1 x (A) 45x120/240cm
1 x (B) 34x90/240cm
1 x (C) Net
2 x (1) 10x110mm bolts
2 x (2) M10 Washers
2 x (3) M10 Nuts
4 x (4) 5x60mm Screws

Attaching the Staircase:
You will need 1 bag of post-crete (already mentioned earlier) for concreting the bottom of the stairs
and the handrail posts. You will find it easier to only fit the top, middle and bottom tread to the stair
string, at first. When you have fitted the handrails and posts, at the end of this section, you can then
finish fitting the remaining treads. This makes the staircase lighter to lift while fitting to the tower.
You are now ready to fir the staircase. You have two more holes to dig for the bottom of the stairs
and the handrail posts. Follow the dimensions on the following pages. If the sides of the stairs are
going into the ground by more than 300mm you may wish to cut the excess off. Ensure you cut the
bottom and NOT the top of the stairs. Pile your soil onto a piece of plastic to minimise clearing up
afterwards.

Attaching the Swing Arm:
You will need one bag of post-crete (mentioned earlier) for concreting the bottom of the swing
beam supports. You may find it easier to attach the swing hooks while the beam is still on the
ground rather than struggling up a ladder.
Swing Beam components list:
Digging the holes for the Swing Beam:
ATTENTION - Allow a minimum of 2 metres space around the Playcentre and ensure that the area is free from
other obstacles such as trees and branches, garden lights and other play equipment.

To make the A frame use the 130mm bolt, nut and washer, and push through both part A's. The nut
and the washer will sit in the recess around the bolt hole. Then spread the legs out so the
measurement from outside to outside of the part A's is 255cm. Then drill two holes at each end of
part C approx 30mm in. Fix using 4 x 60mm screws. This rail should be flush with both sides of parts
A and the same distance up from the bottom of Part A.

We suggest attaching the swing hooks before lifting the beam up onto the frame. Attach the swing
beam (part B) to your desired upright of the tower, using (part 6) nut and washer. The Nut &
Washer should sit in the recessed hole.
Two people are needed for this next bit. Lift the A-Frame into the previously dug holes. One
person holds this in place whilst the other lifts up the swing beam (part B) above the height of the
A frame. Then slowly lower the beam so it sits in between both parts A. Now check that the beam
is level and adjust the height by either digging the holes deeper or adding soil to the hole. Make
sure the A frame is upright and approximately 100cm in from the end of the beam before
continuing.
TIP: When you come to build the swing arm we
suggest you first drill a 4mm pilot hole in the two
uprights (A) before attaching the swing arm beam
B with the two 6x120mm screws.
Components & Hardware:
1 x (B) 9x9/360cm
2 x (D) 30x65/40cm
6 x (2) M10 Washers
11 x (3) M10 nuts
6 x (4) 5x60mm Screws
1 x (5) 10x150mm Bolts
2 x (6) 6x120mm Screws
5 x (7) Swing Hook

To make up the A frame, use the 130mm bolt, nut and washer and push through both part A's. The
nut and washer will sit in the recess around the bolt hole. Then spread the legs out so, the
measurement from outside to outside of the Part A's is 255cm.
Then drill two holes at each end of part C approx 30mm in. Fix using 4 x 60mm Screws. This rail
should be flush with both sides of Parts A and the same distance up from the bottom of part A.
Attaching the Slide:

Attach the slide to the platform using 2 4x25mm screws. Attach the slide to the front of the platform
with the platform flooring at right angles to the direction of the slide.
Leave gaps of an equal distance either side of the slide between the slide and the tower uprights.
Attach the Swing Components:
To attach the swing hook, push in the hinged clasp on the swing hook. Then place the centre of the
swing attachments, metal ring, into the middle of the clasp. Then ensure the clasp has fully closed
before use.