Aeronaut Victoria User manual

Introduction:
The model should be assembled following the sequence of the stages of construction described in these instructions.
The laser-cut components are individually numbered. The manufacturing method leaves small tabs on some parts which have to
be cut away using a thin-bladed modelling knife. The dark edges of the laser-cut parts should also be rubbed off using abrasive
paper in order to obtain sound glued joints. Check that all components fit accurately before reaching for the glue, and carry out
any minor trimming required. Allow all glued joints to dry out fully before starting the next stage of construction. We recommend a
fast-setting waterproof white glue for all joints involving the wooden structure. Water-based glue allows you to make corrections
even when it is hard by moistening the appropriate area; the final coats of paint or lacquer render the joints waterproof. Take care
to prevent adhesive running onto the untreated mahogany parts and any external surfaces which will be visible on the finished
model, as the glue will show up through the final painted finish. We recommend that you apply a coat of sanding sealer (Order
No. 7666/02) to the mahogany components before gluing, and rub down lightly with 320-grit abrasive paper. The whole of the
boat - inside and out - must be given several coats of clear water-resistant boat lacquer before the model is placed in the water,
as this waterproofs the wood and the glued joints. If you have to glue parts to areas which have already been lacquered, use two-
pack adhesive for those joints.
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
11
1
Victoria Bestell-Nr. 3082/00
aero-naut Modellbau GmbH & Co.KG, Stuttgarter Str. 18, D-72766 Reutlingen
Power system:
Race 650 electric motor Order No. 7124/18
2-blade boat propeller, 35 mm Ø Order No. 7165/61
Multi 25 speed controller Order No. 7019/71
2-3 LiPo or 7 NiMH cells
We recommend our aero-pick
modelling pins, Order No. 7855/02, for
use throughout construction
Lay the Depron jig 0 on a flat surface, or fix it to a flat board using double-sided adhesive
tape.
Insert all the frames 1 - 9 in the slots in the Depron jig. Sand the front and top of the keel
10 to a 30° bevel on both sides, so that the side and bottom panels rest squarely on them.
Insert the keel 10 in frames 5 - 9, and slot the two fore-and-aft girders 11 in frames 1 - 6.

12
12
1
1
Glue part 12 to the rear of frame 1.
To avoid unsightly patches of glue, it is advisable to apply a thin
coat of sanding sealer to the mahogany face of the hull sides 13
at this stage. Bevel the front end of the hull sides to a sharp
edge, sanding at an angle of about 30° on the inside face (light-
coloured wood); see arrow. This ensures a sharp-edged prow at
the next stage, when the sides are curved inwards and glued
together. Temporarily fix the two hull sides together on the
mahogany face using paper masking tape.
13
2
3
4
Press all the frames down so that the lugs
are resting on the base, in order to align the
framework correctly. Glue all the corner
joints.

The hull sides 13 can now be fitted to the
framework by inserting the edge in the
notches in the frames, starting at the bow
with the keel 10. Press the hull sides firmly
against the keel 10 to ensure that they
project just beyond the rear frame 1.
Glue the top edge (about 5 mm) of the hull sides 13
to the frames at the chine (change in angle) using
white glue or cyano.
Caution:
Ensure that the hull sides 13 are pushed right down
into the notches in the frames, and that all the
frames are resting on the base surface. Weight them
down with books if you are not sure.
1
13
13
10
13
Temporarily join the two hull bottom
panels 14 using paper masking tape.
Glue the reinforcing rails
15 to the hull sides 13;
the strips should project
by about 1 mm.
5
6
7
8
15 15
13
14
14

Lay the taped bottom panels 14 on the hull framework.
Caution:
Do not glue them at this stage!
1
6
14 13
At this stage glue should be applied to all the joints on the
inside of the hull. When you have finished this task, replace the
hull in the slots in the jig 0, and ensure that all the frame lugs
make contact with the base surface. You may need to weight
the hull down to achieve this, using books or similar.
The bottom panels 14 fit between the hull
sides 13 from frame 1 to 6, while from frame
6 to 9 the panels rest on the edge of the hull
sides 13. Glue all the joints thoroughly,
holding the parts together with strips of paper
masking tape. Towards the bow you will need
to use modelling pins.
9
10
11
13
14
14

16
17
18
Assemble the boatstand from parts 16 -
18 and glue the joints.
The front end of the triangular rails 19
should taper towards the bow; sand them
thinner on the broad face, then glue them
to the hull bottom panels 18 and the edge
of the hull sides 13.
Remove the hull from the jig, break off the support
lugs from the frames and the keel, and sand the
edges smooth.
Glue the transom 20 to the rear face of the hull.
Fit the shaft tube 21 in the hull, but do not glue it at
this stage.
Screw the motor (not supplied) to frame 6, slip the
shaft 22 through the shaft tube 21 and connect it to
the motor using the shaft coupling 23. Check that the
motor shaft and the propeller shaft turn smoothly and
easily, then glue the shaft tube 21 in place using two-
pack adhesive.
Allow the glue to set hard, then remove the motor
and shaft once more.
22
23
6
21
24
20
21
12
13
14
15
19
19
14
13

29
26
28 29
31
31
32
Fit the rudder bush 26 through the hull bottom, allowing it to
project by 3 mm on the underside. Glue it in place, together with
the plywood reinforcements 28 + 29.
Glue the keel fillet 30 between the shaft tube
21 and the hull bottom 14.
32
Glue the stringers 31 + 32 in the notches
between the frames and the hull sides.
16
30
21
14
17
18

33
33
34
35
36 34
35
38
37
37
Insert the superstructure
sides 33 in the notches in
the frames. Note that the
sides must be located as far
aft as possible, engaging in
the slots in frame 1 (see
arrow).
Glue the stringers 34, 35 and the deck beam 36
in place as shown.
Glue the battery support rails 37 and the servo plate
38 in place. When the glue has set hard, apply three
coats of sanding sealer or waterproof boat lacquer to
the inside of the hull - this is essential.
19
20
21

39
39
40
Glue the side and rear deck panels
39 + 40 in place.
The curved fairings 44 are assembled in a press formed by the templates S1, each of
which consists of three laminations as shown. Glue together three 10 x 80 mm strips of
0.6 mm mahogany veneer, then press them together between the two templates S1 and
use one or two screw-clamps to exert pressure. Allow the glue to dry for 24 hours, then cut
the curved fairings to length through the notches in the template S1 using a fretsaw.
Tape the window
frame components
together using
masking tape, then
glue the joints.
45
46 46
89 90
22
23
25
Glue the fairings 89 to frame 6 and the
underside of the deck 41, and glue the
fairings 90 on the inside, below the curved
fairings 44. 26
S1
S1
41
42
42
44
44
Glue the forward deck 41 in place, securing it
with strips of paper masking tape. When the
glue has set hard, glue parts 42 and the
curved fairings 44 in place.
24
Fairings

48
49
50
The two parts 47 act as supports for the flybridge
sides 51 and floor 52; see stage 30. These parts are
glued to frame 4 and the superstructure side 33 on
both sides.
47
47
33
4
Slot the front and rear cockpit walls 49
+ 50 into the cockpit floor 48, place
this assembly in the hull, and slide it
aft as far as it will go; the floor 48 slots
into frame 1, and is supported on both
sides.
Caution: do not glue anything at this
stage!
Place the flybridge sides 51 in the hull;
they should be a snug fit between the
lower superstructure sides 3, the two
walls 49 + 50 and the floor 48. In the
centre the flybridge sides 51 rest on
parts 47. Now glue parts 48, 49, 50 +
51 together.
Caution: take care not to glue these
parts to the hull!
51
33
33
47
49 50
48
27
28
29

58 33
45
46 46
S2
Insert the flybridge floor 52 and the front flybridge
wall 53, and glue them to parts 49, 51 + 53.
Caution: do not glue these parts to the
superstructure sides 33 and the hull!
Fit the template S2 in the cabin as shown; do not
glue it in place, as it has to be removed again later.
Glue the roof support 54 to the front flybridge wall 53.
Slot the roof supports 55 into part 54 and
the template S2. Fit the transverse supports
56 + 57 and the roof rails 43, and glue parts
43, 54, 55, 56 + 57 together.
Caution: do not glue these parts to the
superstructure sides 33, the windows 45 +
46 and the template S2!
30
31
Paint the top of the roof 58 white, allow the
paint to dry, then glue it to the model.
Caution: take care not to glue the roof to
the superstructure sides 33, the windows
45 + 46 and the template S2!
32
33
52
53
49
51
33
33
51
54
55
55
56
57
S2
45
46 46 33
53
43

59 60
62
61
62.1
Assemble the command stand from
parts 59, 60, 61, 62 + 62.1, and glue all
the joints.
Tape together the window frame
parts 63, 64 + 65 using masking
tape, and glue the joints.
63
64
64
51
51
34
36 Painting
78
79 80
81
82
Assemble the navigation lamp brackets from
parts 78 to 80, paint them, and glue parts 81
and 82 to them.
35
88
92
93
92
94
37
All wooden parts which have not yet been primed or sealed must now be given a preliminary coat of sanding sealer or thinned
boat lacquer. Allow to dry, then rub down using 320-grit abrasive paper.
Any gaps in the structure can be made good using mahogany-colour wood filler paste. Remove any excess paste with a damp
cloth before it dries, and sand the filler flush once it has set hard.
Remove all traces of dust and grease from the boat's surfaces before further painting.
Apply at least three coats of waterproof boat lacquer to the whole boat. It is important to allow the lacquer to dry out thoroughly
between coats, and rub it down with 320-grit abrasive paper.
38 Paint the sliding doors 88 and glue
them to the cabin as shown. Locate
the fittings 92, 93 + 94, and the
etched Nickel silver parts, and glue
them in place.

65
66
S3
S4
67
68
70
77
Glue parts S3 + S4 together to form the seat template.
Glue together the chair squab 65 and the backrest 66
on the template; this ensures that the armrests are set
at the correct angle. Glue the foam padding 67 to the seat, and cut
off the excess round the edges.
Glue the artificial leather 68 to the full area of the foam
padding 67; the slits at left and right should coincide
exactly with the change in angle of the foam.
67
The artificial leather is flexible, and can be pulled
round the edges and glued to the back of parts 65 +
66, ideally without any creases. Take care to avoid a
gap at the change in angle.
65
66
Paint the seat back cover 69 before gluing it to
the back of the chair.
Bend the armrests 70 to shape and glue them to
the chair.
The bench seat is assembled in the same
manner as the chair, using parts 72 - 77.
69
71
39
40
41
42
43

83
84
83
86
87
Bend the two ladder strings 84 to the
shape shown, then paint the steps 85
and slip them onto the wire parts.
Glue the ends of the strings into the
holes in the front cockpit wall 49.
Paint the door 86 before gluing the
door plate and the formed handle 97
to it. Glue the hatch 87 to the deck 52
above the door 86.
Bend the railings 83 to shape and
glue them in place as shown.
Cut out the instruments from the building instructions
and seal them with a coat of waterproof lacquer before
sticking them to the rear face of the nickel silver
instrument panel. Glue the instrument panel to the
command stand. Fit the shaft 96 through the steering
wheel 95, then glue the shaft in the hole in part 60.
49
84
84
85
85
85
86
97
44
45
Petrol
OIL
1
40
0
3/4 X 100 RPM
40
Engine 60
30
20 70
50
0
10 80
0
TEMP120
1/4 1/2
PRESS URE
18
12
0
416
2
10
8
6
80
120
0
80
60
TEMP
Water
40
60
20 120
0
60 80
PSI
140
Oil
Pressure
60
95

25
27
101
100
99
The motor can now be screwed to the frame. Slip
the shaft 22 into the shaft tube 21. Fit the coupling
23 and the collet 24 on the propeller shaft 22, and
tighten the retaining screws.
Screw the locknut 25 onto the threaded end of
the propeller shaft, then screw the propeller (not
included) onto the shaft and tighten it against
the locknut 25.
Fit the shaft of the rudder 27 through the rudder
bush 26.
Fit the tiller 99 on the rudder shaft 27 and
tighten the retaining screw.
Screw the rudder servo (standard-size) to the
servo plate.
Bend the pushrod 100 to shape, and connect it
to the servo output arm and the tiller. Push the
two plastic keepers 101 into place to retain it.
26
46
47
The glazing panels are laser-cut, and are an accurate fit in the
window openings. The laser leaves small lugs at the cut-lines;
leave them in place, and do not peel off the protective film
from both sides at this stage.
Press the glazing panels into the appropriate openings; the
lugs will hold them in place. Now apply clear adhesive (not
cyano), and press them into the opening from both sides using
your fingers. Allow the glue to set hard before carefully peeling
off the protective film.
48
22
23 21
24

Part Description Material No. Size Part Sheet
No. off
0 Jig Depron 1 Die-cut
1 Hull frame Plywood 1 3 mm Laser-cut 2
2 Hull frame Plywood 1 3 mm Laser-cut 1
3 Hull frame Plywood 1 3 mm Laser-cut 1
4 Hull frame Plywood 1 3 mm Laser-cut 1
5 Hull frame Plywood 1 3 mm Laser-cut 1
6 Half-frame Plywood 1 3 mm Laser-cut 1
7 Hull frame Plywood 1 3 mm Laser-cut 1
8 Hull frame Plywood 1 3 mm Laser-cut 1
9 Hull frame Plywood 1 3 mm Laser-cut 1
10 Keel Plywood 1 2 mm Laser-cut
11 Fore-and-aft support Plywood 2 3 mm Laser-cut 2
12 Transom support Plywood 1 3 mm Laser-cut 1
13 Hull side Plywood 2 1.2 mm Laser-cut 3
14 Hull bottom Plywood 2 0.8 mm Laser-cut 4
15 Reinforcing rail Plywood 4 0.8 mm Laser-cut 4
16 Boatstand front Plywood 1 3 mm Laser-cut 2
17 Boatstand rear Plywood 1 3 mm Laser-cut 2
18 Boatstand joiner dowel Beech 2 10 Ø x 300 mm Oversize
19 Triangular rail Maple 2 6 x 6 x 8.5 x 660 Oversize
20 Transom Mahogany 1 1.5 mm Laser-cut 5
21 Propeller shaft tube Brass 1 7 mm Ø Ready made 7155/30
22 Propeller shaft Steel 1 4 mm Ø Ready made
23 Shaft coupling Brass 1 3.17 / 4 mm Ø Ready made 7035/68
24 Collet Brass 1 4 mm Ø Ready made 5842/40
25 Locknut Brass 1 M4 Ready made 7773/04
26 Rudder bush Tube 1 4/3 Ø x 50 mm Ready made
27 Rudder Plastic / metal 1 Ready made 7024/10
28 Reinforcement Plywood 1 3 mm Laser-cut 2
29 Rudder bush support Plywood 1 3 mm Laser-cut 2
30 Keel fillet Plywood 1 3 mm Laser-cut 1
31 Forward stringer Spruce 2 2 x 4 x 293 Oversize
32 Aft stringer Spruce 2 2 x 4 x 410 mm Oversize
33 Superstructure side Mahogany 2 1.5 mm Laser-cut 5
34 Front deck stringer Spruce 2 3 x 5 x 225 mm Oversize
35 Rear deck stringer Spruce 2 3 x 5 x 410 mm Oversize
36 Deck beam Spruce 1 5 x 5 x 185 mm Oversize
37 Battery support rail Spruce 2 5 x 5 x 245 mm Oversize
38 Servo plate Plywood 1 3 mm Laser-cut 1
39 Side deck Mahogany 2 1.5 mm Laser-cut 7
40 Rear deck Mahogany 1 1.5 mm Laser-cut 7
41 Front deck Mahogany 1 1.5 mm Laser-cut 7
42 Front deck doubler Mahogany 2 1.5 mm Laser-cut 7
43 Roof rail Spruce 2 2 x 2 x 198 mm Oversize
44 Curved deck fairing Mahogany 2 0.5 mm Veneer
45 Centre superstructure window Mahogany 1 1.5 mm Laser-cut 5
46 L.H. / R.H. superstr. window Mahogany 2 1.5 mm Laser-cut 5
47 Flybridge support Plywood 2 3 mm Laser-cut 2
48 Cockpit floor Plywood 1 3 mm Laser-cut 2
49 Front cockpit wall Mahogany 1 1.5 mm Laser-cut 5
50 Rear cockpit wall Mahogany 1 1.5 mm Laser-cut 5
51 Flybridge side wall Mahogany 2 1.5 mm Laser-cut 5
52 Flybridge floor Plywood 1 3 mm Laser-cut 2
53 Flybridge front wall Mahogany 1 3 mm Laser-cut 7
54 Roof support Plywood 1 3 mm Laser-cut 2
55 Roof support Plywood 2 3 mm Laser-cut 2
56 Transverse roof support Plywood 1 3 mm Laser-cut 1
57 Transverse roof support Plywood 1 3 mm Laser-cut 1
58 Roof Plywood 1 1 mm Laser-cut 6
59 Command stand side panel Mahogany 2 1.5 mm Laser-cut 5
60 Command stand front panel Mahogany 1 1.5 mm Laser-cut 5

Part Description Material No. Size Part Sheet
No.
61 Instrument panel Mahogany 1 1.5 mm Laser-cut 5
62 Command stand cover Mahogany 2 1.5 mm Laser-cut 5
62.1 Command stand fairing Mahogany 1 1.5 mm Laser-cut 5
63 Centre flybridge window Mahogany 1 1.5 mm Laser-cut 5
64 L.H. / R.H. flybridge window Mahogany 2 1.5 mm Laser-cut 5
65 Chair squab Plywood 1 3 mm Laser-cut 2
66 Chair backrest Plywood 1 3 mm Laser-cut 2
67 Chair padding Foam 1 Oversize
68 Chair covering Artificial leather 1 Oversize
69 Chair back cover Mahogany 1 1.5 mm Laser-cut 7
70 Armrest Nickel silver 4 0.3 mm Etched
71 Seat base Aluminium 1 Oversize
72 Bench seat Plywood 1 3 mm Laser-cut 2
73 Bench backrest Plywood 1 3 mm Laser-cut 2
74 Bench padding Foam 1 Oversize
75 Bench covering Artificial leather 1 Oversize
76 Bench back cover Mahogany 1 1.5 mm Laser-cut 7
77 Bench base Aluminium 1 Oversize
78 Nav. lamp bracket bottom Mahogany 2 1.5 mm Laser-cut 5
79 Nav. lamp bracket side Mahogany 2 1.5 mm Laser-cut 5
80 Nav. lamp bracket set Mahogany 2 1.5 mm Laser-cut 5
81 Navigation lamp Plastic 2 5 mm Laser-cut
82 Navigation lamp cover Mahogany 2 1.5 mm Laser-cut 5
83 Railing Nickel silver 2 1.5 Ø x 285 mm Oversize 7731/66
84 Ladder string Nickel silver 2 1.5 Ø x 85 mm Oversize 7731/66
85 Step Mahogany 3 1.5 mm Laser-cut 5
86 Door Mahogany 1 1.5 mm Laser-cut 5
87 Hatch cover Mahogany 1 1.5 mm Laser-cut 5
88 Sliding door Mahogany 2 1.5 mm Laser-cut 7
89 Deck fairing Mahogany 2 1.5 mm Laser-cut 7
90 Inboard wall fairing Mahogany 2 1.5 mm Laser-cut 7
91 Stop-piece Mahogany 1 1.5 mm Laser-cut 7
92 Cleat Metal 4 Ready made 5403/23
93 Fanfare Metal 1 Ready made 5682/31
94 Lifebelt Plastic 2 Ready made 6065/35
95 Steering wheel Metal 1 16 mm Ø Ready made 5655/16
96 Steering wheel shaft Brass 1 M2 x 12 Ready made 7772/22
97 Door handle Nickel silver 1 1 Ø x 30 mm Oversize 7731/65
98 Etched parts set Nickel silver 1 Ready made
99 Tiller and clamping screw Aluminium 1 Ready made 7492/11
100 Pushrod Steel 1 1.8 Ø x 80 mm Ready made 7730/18
101 Pushrod keeper Plastic 2 Ready made 7489/07
102 Window Plastic 24 Laser-cut 8
S1 Press template Plywood 3+3 3 mm Laser-cut 1
S2 Roof template Plywood 1 3 mm Laser-cut 1
S3 Seat template Plywood 2 3 mm Laser-cut 1
S4 Seat template Plywood 1 3 mm Laser-cut 1