Aeronaut 3033/00 User manual

aero
naut
Südersand
Order-No. 3033/00

Thank you for buying an aero-naut kit!
Südersand is the model of a small steam tug in 1:20 scale, which was in use in
the 20ies and 30ies of the last century. This kit contains precisely laser-cut parts and
a sheet of photo-etched brass parts for the fine details which give the model its realistic
appearance.
Before you begin, please read the instruction manual carefully and completely for a better
understanding of the design of this model. Pre-treatment of parts and assemblies and the
application of paint should be planned ahead of the building process. Depending on your
favourite colour scheme it may be necessary to change the building sequence given in the
instruction manual and to paint individual assemblies before installation.
Construction should be according to the step-by-step instructions provided in the manual. Use a
sharp modeller´s knife to cut the tabs of the laser-cut parts. Use fine sandpaper to remove any
residue of the laser-cutting process from parts, to sand off tabs, create good contact surfaces for
gluing and enhance the overall appearance of your model.
Before you glue, always check that parts fit perfectly and correct, if necessary. Give glue sufficient
time to dry or cure before you proceed to the next building step.
You can apply your favourite colour scheme to your model. Make sure to clean the polystyrene
hull thoroughly and to use a primer suitable for your paint job. Treat deck and superstructure with
sanding sealer and filler before you apply paint to achieve a smooth surface.
Recommended glues
Material Glue Order.-No.
wood/wood Ponal Express 7638/10
UHU hart 7631/02
wood/metal, metal/metal UHU plus endfest 7633/02
UHU plus schnellfest 7633/04
ABS/metal, ABS/wood Stabilit Express 7646/01
Recommended primer
Material Item Order.-No.
mahogani, plywood Sanding sealer 7666/02
Südersand
We recommend to use our aero-pick
modeller´s pins.
Order.-No. 7855/02
Recommended accessories
Spring coupling
for various shaft diameters:
Shaft diameters Order.-No.
3/4 mm 7034/16
3,17/4 mm 7034/21
4/4 mm 7034/22
Servo
AN-20-MGBBA 7003/75
Technical data
Scale: 1:20
Length: ca. 737 mm
Beam: ca. 220 mm
Height: ca. 370 mm
Weight: ca. 3.300 g
Recommended drive system (brushed motor)
Item Description Order-No.
Motor Race 620 Navy 7000/47
ESC Multi 25 7019/71
Propeller 3-blade, 50 mm 7170/77
Coupling 3,17/4 mm 7034/21
Battery 2S-LiPo
Recommended drive system (brushless motor)
Item Description Order-No.
Motor actro-n 28-4-880 7003/04
ESC actro-marine 30 7003/42
Propeller 3-blade, 50 mm 7170/77
Coupling 4/4 mm 7034/22
Battery 2S-LiPo

Glue together parts 3 to 5 to assemble the boatstand.
When glue has dried apply several coats of sanding sealer.
Sand lightly with 400-grit sandpaper.
Glue together two rear keel parts 6, sand edges
smooth, then apply two coats of sanding sealer.
Sand lightly with 400-grit sandpaper.
Trim the vacuum-formed hull at the line indicated in illustration.
Use a sharp scalpel or similar and scratch along the inside of the hull´s top edge several times with
only little pressure. Then carefully break off the edge along the engraved line.
With a small balsa plane or sanding block smooth the top edge of the hull.
1
2
4
3
35
5
6
6
4
Drill a 7 mm hole for propshaft 7 and a 4 mm
hole for rudder sleeve 8 into the rear end of the
hull as indicated.
The exact positions for the holes are marked on
the hull.
Building the Hull

With a sanding block sand contact surface for
rear keel parts 6 smooth.
For rear keel installation drill two 1.5 mm holes for tapping
screws 9 into hull.
Accurately position the rear keel on the contact surface and
secure with tape. Mark position of holes and drill through hull
into keel.
Note: At a later stage the rear keel will be glued to the hull
with Stabilit Express (or similar glue that is suitable for gluing
polystyrene with other materials) and at the same time
secured with tapping screws 9 and washers 10.
Position rear keel parts on
contact surface of hull and
check distance for rudder
installation as indicated.
The distance should measure
70 mm.
5
7
6
70 mm

The rudder consists of three layers. Glue parts 11,
12, 13 and 14 between outer layers 15. Note that
locating tube 13 must be flush with lower end of
rudder.
Use epoxy for gluing.
Glue in place rudder sleeve 8 together with supports 16 and 17.
Use Stabilit Express (or similar) for gluing and proceed as follows:
Temporarily attach rear keel 6 to hull with tapping screws 9. Insert
rudder sleeve 8 in hull, slide push rod 18 through rudder sleeve
and secure on keel with tape. Make sure to centre pushrod on
keel.
Fit in place parts 16 and 17 in front and behind rudder sleeve,
respectively. Use a needle file to produce a flat groove on parts 16
and 17 to improve gluing surface for rudder sleeve.
Than glue parts 8, 16 and 17 in place with a liberal quantity of
Stabilit Express (or similar).
When glue has cured completely sand rudder to a
drop-shaped cross-section and apply two coats of
sanding sealer.
Note: Use the layers of the plywood parts as a
guide to achieve a symmetrical cross-section of
the rudder.
Mark position of pushrod on rear keel 6, remove
keel from hull and drill with 2 mm.
8
10
9
11
11
14
13
17
17
16
18
16
88
12
15
15

Insert rudder in rudder sleeve. Make sure to include
washer 19 when you do this!
Protect hull along keel´s gluing surface then glue keel
6 to hull using Stabilit Express. Secure with tapping
screws 9 and washers 10.
When glue has cured secure rudder with screw 20.
First enlarge hole in keel to accept screw head, then
glue screw in place in keel with epoxy.
Note: Control horn 21 can be installed at a later
stage, when the model is fitted with radio control
equipment. Use this picutre as a guide and secure
control horn with nut 22.1 and lock nut 22.2.
On the inside of the hull carefully roughen the surface
of the anchor pocket with a small sanding block, then
glue parts 208 in place with Stabilit Express.
Note: Parts 208 will make it easier to glue in place
the anchors later on and will prevent water from
entering the hull along the anchor shank.
12
13
10
10
20
208
20
19
19
22.1
21
22.2
10
9

Prepare motor mount 23 for motor installation.
It is possible to install 500-type brushed motors or slow outrunners with a
diameter of 28 mm.
For 500-type brushed motors increase diameter of centre hole to 13 mm using
a drill bit or a file (use engraved line on motor mount as a guide).
Place side panel 25 flat on the building board. Glue motor mount 23 and
former 24 to side panel at an angle of exactly 90°.
Leave to dry for a few minutes.
Glue second side panel 25 to formers and weigh down with
suitable weights until glue has dried.
14
15
16
Interior Structure
23
23
24
25
25

Screw motor to motor mount using socket head screws and washers.
Note: It makes sense to install the motor using socket head screws. This will make it
easier to remove the motor, once the RC support structure has been installed.
Place sub deck 26 flat on the building
board, fit support structure in place on
sub deck and check for proper fit. Apply
glue and secure with suitable weights.
When glue has dried, remove assembly from building board and turn
over. Assemble RC platforms from parts 27, 28, 29 and glue in place on
either side of sub deck.
Apply two coats of sanding sealer to assembly before it is installed into
hull.
Note: Side panels and RC platforms have openings to accomodate
leads for electronic components.
If necessary, the side panels can be opend up along the RC platforms to
make acces to the platforms easier.
17
18
19
26
27
28
29

Remove prop shaft from stern tube, insert stern tube in hull so that it protrudes from hull
by approximately 3 mm.
Insert prop shaft in stern tube, install spacer and secure with M4 nut.
Temporarily install prop (diameter 50 mm) on prop shaft. There should be a distance of
about 5 mm between rudder and prop hub.
From the aero-naut range of
accessories select a motor coupling
which fits your prop shaft and motor
shaft diameters.
Note: Illustration shows installation
of aero-naut spring coupling.
Place sub deck assembly in hull and position carefully. If necessary, adjust contour of
frames until frames fit hull and prop shaft moves freely and without binding.
Note: The tab at the bottom of frame 24 is used to position the sub deck assembly.
Adjust frame until tab fits keel perfectly and frame rests against hull. With a soft pencil
mark position of sub deck assembly in hull.
When a perfect fit is achieved, glue prop shaft into hull with a liberal amount of Stabilit
Express. To guarantee exact alignment of prop shaft, connect motor to prop shaft until
glue has cured completely.
Then glue sub deck in place with Stabilit Express and leave to cure.
spacer
M4 nut
20
21
22

33
30
32
31
Coaming Glue together coaming parts 30, 31 and 32 upside down on a flat surface or building
board. Corner reinforcements 32 make sure that parts are glued at right angles.
Note: Arrow symbols on coaming face forward and upward on completed assembly
when installed in deck opening.
Insert coaming frame 33 in coaming and glue in place in two steps.
First glue frame to front or rear end of coaming and let dry. Then apply glue to
cut-outs of coaming, bend frame along underside of coaming and secure with
suitable weights until glue has dried.
Note: Arrow symbols on coaming face
forward and upward on completed assembly
when installed in deck opening.
23
24

To the underside of deck 34 glue support frames 35 and 36.1 for coal hole
covers and rudder linkage access hatch cover. Make sure support frames are
exactly centred over openings.
Immediately remove any excess glue from the inside of openings. Then place
suitable weights on frames until glue has dried.
Turn deck over and from below insert coaming into deck. If necessary, use
sandpaper or a flat file to make corrections until coaming fits without binding.
Glue coaming into deck opening and make sure, that deck follows contour of
contact surface exactly.
Use small spring clips or small screw clamps to press deck against contact
surface of coaming until glue has dried.
Apply sanding sealer to either side of deck, coaming and rudder linkage access
hatch cover 36.2.
Note: The contour of coaming´s contact surface corresponds to the contour of
the underside of the superstructure to guarantee a perfect fit.
25
26
27
34
35
36.1

Lightly sand contact surfaces of deck and hull. Position deck as accurately as
possible on hull, glue in place and secure with clamps until glue has dried.
.
Note: Use glue that reliably bonds styrene to wood, for example Ruderer L530 or
Stabilit Express.
When glue has cured, treat deck and rudder linkage hatch cover 36.2 with a
suitable primer.
Cut out bulwark 2 from mould leaving a 4 mm wide rim around the
circumference which serves as a contact surface for gluing.
Trial-fit bulwark onto hull and correct, if necessary. Fix bulwark on hull
with clamps and with a soft pencil mark position of inner edge of
bulwark on deck to define contact surface for gluing. Mask off the
deck´s contact surface with tape 1 mm inside the pencil line. Then paint
the deck.
Note: Steam tugs of that era generally have steel decks, which can be
painted in your favourite colour.
Clean bulwark throughly with warm water and a mild detergent, then
lightly sand with fine wet sanding paper. Paint inside of bulwark. When
paint has dried, carefully remove any paint from contact surface of
bulwark.
Glue bulwark onto deck and hold in place with clamps until glue has set
completely. Inspect outside of gluing joint and use filler and sandpaper
to correct any blemishes.
Note: Use glue that reliably bonds styrene to wood, for example
Ruderer L530 or Stabilit Express.
28
29
30 2

Position template S1 on outside of bulwark so that rear end of wash
port corresponds with rear end of the coaming.
Draw contour of wash port onto bulwark with a soft pencil, then use
drill bit and file to cut out the wash port.
Position template S2 on bulwark so that mooring port is located halfway
between rear end of coaming and front end of rudder linkage access hatch.
Draw contour of mooring port onto bulwark with a soft pencil, then use drill bit
and file to cut out the mooring port.
Cut out second wash port at a distance of 50 mm from first wash port.
Repeat this procedure on opposite side of bulwark.
Mark position of second mooring port so that the opening starts ca. 30 mm
in front of front edge of coaming.
Repeat procedure on opposite side of bulwark.
31
33
32
34
50 mm
S 1
S 2
30 mm

Glue mooring ports 37 into bulwark. From the inside glue parts 39
onto neck of mooring ports.
Remove wash ports 38 from set of photo etched parts and glue to
the outside of bulwark.
35
37
38
39
From below drill hawser holes for anchors 40 with 2.5 mm
at a steep angle. Shorten shank by ca. 20 mm and use a file
to adapt opening until anchor fits anchor pocket properly.
Note: Glue anchors in
place when hull is
completely painted.
Drill from below at
a steep angle with
2.5 mm.
36
20 mm

Drill three 1.5 mm holes into bulwark for fender ropes.
Use thread 42 to tie fenders to bulwark after hull has been
painted.
Tip: Use a fine soldering tip to produce holes for fender
ropes. Piercing the bulwark with a hot soldering tip will
produce a small beading around the hole which resembles
the reinforcements welded onto the bulwark.
Tip: Tire fenders look more realistic, when treated with fine
sandpaper. In reality, tires used as fenders will be old and
discarded car or lorry tires.
The servo tray has cut-outs with the following dimensions to
accomodate various servo types: 40x20 mm and 31x13 mm.
Install the rudder servo and cut to length pushrod 18.
Screw M2 nut 43 and clevis 44 onto threaded end of
pushrod and make a Z-bend at the opposite end.
Connect pushrod to rudder arm and adjustable pushrod
connector. Final adjustments are made after installation of
radio equipment.
37
38
1,5 mm
41
44
43
18

Clean hull with warm water and a mild detergent, then lightly sand with
400 grade wet sanding paper.
Südersand´s hull is vacuum formed from polystyrene. It is recommended
to treat the hull with a suitable surface primer before painting.
Place boat stand with hull on an even surface an mark off the waterline
with a soft pencil. This is done by clamping the pencil to a ruler or an
adjustable square at a hight of 95 mm and sliding it around the hull.
Make sure the hull is firmly fixed and truly vertical.
Below the waterline the hull can be painted green, red or a dull red-
brown, above the waterline the hull is usually black.
39
Finally install propeller 45 on propeller shaft and secure with
locknut.
Tip: Should the distance between propeller shaft and rudder not be sufficient for propeller
installation, rotate rudder by 90°.
If installation is still not possible, screw locknut to end of prop shaft and slide prop shaft
into tube. Then screw propeller onto shaft and secure with locknut.
40
95 mm

Superstructure Glue together floor, front and rear wall (48, 49 and 50) of wheelhouse in one go, then glue assembly to
left side wall 46. Tabs and notches in individual parts make sure that parts are aligned correctly.
Remove any excess glue from inside of wheelhouse. Leave to dry for a few minutes.
Note: Left side wall 46 is identified by two openings for portholes!
Turn assembly upside down, glue in place parts 51, 52, 53, 54 as shown and secure
with clamps and/or tape.
Note: Top edge of parts 53 and 54 is below top
edge of side panels!
Place assembly upside down on building board, glue side
panel 47 in place, put suitable weight on wheelhouse floor
and let dry.
1
3
2
46 47
54
53
52
51
49
48
50

59
62
61
60
Glue frame 56 onto opening of part 55. Glue frame 57 to
underside of part 58.
Glue frames 60, 61, 62 to base plate 59 to
make up structure of boiler house roof.
Chamfer bottom edge of boiler house side panels 63 so that side panels sit atop
tabs of base plate 59. Glue in place and leave to dry.
Sand top edges of side panels 63 flush with top edge of frames and glue in place
part 64.
When glue has dried, sand edges of assembly as shown in opposite illustration.
Underside of hatch
cover.
Detail of boiler house
roof.
4
5
6
55
56
57
58
64
63
63

Glue frames 65 over openings in side panels 63.
Glue frames 66 to underside of hatch covers 67.
Remove excess glue immediately from frames to
ensure proper fit of hatch covers on boiler house
frames.
Glue together three parts 68 of towing hook bracket, then glue in place over openings
in rear panel of boiler house. This assembly forms the support for the towing hook
assembly.
Note: If required, one additional part 68 is available in the kit to secure the towing
hook rail.
Place hatch covers on boiler house and check for proper
fit. Correct, if necessary, so that hatch covers fit properly.
To the underside of the boiler house base plate
glue supports 69 and 70. Make sure to place
them precisely over openings in base plate.
7
9
8
10
65
66
67
68
69
70
70

Glue part 71 to superstructure. Front and rear edge of part 71 are
flush with former 52 and front wall of wheelhouse, respectively.
Chamfer top edge of part 72 to fit part 71, then glue in place. When
dry, sand over complete assembly.
Note: The basic components of the superstrucutre are now complete.
Apply two coats of sanding sealer to inside and outside of assemblies,
then go ahead with the building process.
Fit in place rear cover of superstructure, then glue.
Fit boiler house roof in place and glue, if required
(see note).
Glue together wheelhouse steps 73/74 and glue in
place on either side of wheelhouse.
Apply filler to notches in wheelhouse side panels
and boiler house roof, sand and treat with suitable
primer.
Note: As the boiler house roof fits between side
panels, it is also possible to just wedge it in place
and make it removeable.
11
12
71
72
73
74