Air-Aqua SuperBead User manual

Installation and user guide for the SuperBead filter
SuperBead filters are manufactured by:
Air Aqua BV
Weth. Ohmannstraat 1
7951 SB Staphorst
The Netherlands
[phone]
[e-mail]
Table of Contents
1. Foreword
2. Defects and claims for compensation, disclaimer
2.1 Defects and claims for compensation
2.2 Warranty
2.3 Hidden defects
2.4 Improper application
2.5 Returning the product
2.6 Claims
2.7 Spare parts
2.8 Subject to alterations
3. General
3.1 Water Quality
3.2 Easy Cleaning
3.3 Adaptable and versatile
3.4 Straightforward to fit and use
4. Use of the filter/Siting
4.1 Choose a site close to a drain for the waste water
4.2 The Siphon Head
4.3 Firm Base
4.4 Future Access
4.5 Outside or Under Cover?
4.6 Standard Flow Pattern
4.7 The functioning
5. Assembling the SuperBead Filter
5.1 Connection parts SuperBead
5.2 Filling with Beads
5.3a Bottom inlet/waste - metric
5.3b Bottom inlet/waste - inches
5.4 Top outlet
5.5 Extending the waste-outlet
5.6 Plumbing Tips
6. Choosing the correct size of pump
6.1 The Minimum Head
6.2 Maximum Pressures
6.3 Which Pump
6.4 Strainers
7. The correct size of ultra violet (UV) unit
8. Important Points
8.1 Air-breaks and Negative pressure
8.2 Aeration of filtered water returned to the pond
8.3 Non-return valves/Footvalves
8.4 Operating SuperBead without a pre-filter
9 Starting the filter for the first time

10. Running-in your filter
10.1 Establishing Nitrification
11. When to backwash the SuperBead filter
11.1 Monitoring the standard backwash
11.2 Recommended minimum backwash cycles
11.3 Making the backwash fully automatic
12 Long term maintenance
12.1 Monitoring
12.2 Additional Monthly Maintenance
12.3 Check valves
12.4 Pump Strainers
12.5 Waste and Top Outlet Screens
13 Winter Running
13.1 Closing the filter down as an option
14 Water Quality Maintenance
14.1 Partial water changing
14.2 Set the backwash frequency to water change for you
14.3 Monitor your pond and fish to avoid problems
15 Filter Troubleshooting
1. Foreword
This guide aims to provide you with correct and complete information.
PLEASE KEEP UP THIS USER GUIDE CAREFULLY! ON CHANGE OF OWNERSHIP PASS ON
THE COMPLETE USER GUIDE!
Read this guide through carefully before you start to install the product. If you are uncertain about
the contents of this guide or do not fully comprehend the assembly instructions and/or do not
understand something regarding this product please contact the shop where the product was
purchased.
The General Terms and Conditions of Air-Aqua apply for all products.
2. Defects and claims for compensation, disclaimer
2.1 Defects and claims for compensation
Except in the case of a further claim, we are only liable for defects to the delivered goods until the
risk has been transferred to the purchaser. Minor deviations between the appearance and
workmanship of the product delivered and the specifications in the contract or minor limitations of
usability will be deemed insignificant.
The warranted condition, endurance and usability of the product is solely subject to the
specifications agreed in writing, in the product specification and/or in this guide.
Further oral agreements, especially from preliminary talks, advertising and/or in related industrial
standards are only valid as an integral part of a written contract. Only conditions and specifications
specifically laid down by us are valid. We do not accept conditions or specifications laid down by
third parties. The specifications laid down in this guide are valid. If the customer wishes to use the
product for a purpose other than the intended purpose, he or she is obliged to thoroughly examine
the suitability of the product for this other purpose. We give no warranty and accept no liability for
any use other than that explicitly approved by us in writing.
Any changes made to the product will result in the loss of warranty and all claims and rights will
lapse.
The user is held responsible for the proper use of the filter. The user guide does not discharge you
from your liability for the proper and safe application, installation, operation and maintenance of
the filter.
On using this guide you agree that in no circumstances can or will the manufacturer be held liable
for any personal injuries or damage to property that might result from using the device. This
applies specifically for any damage due to improper piping or plumbing. Damage due to failure to
clean or maintain the filter regularly is not covered by the warranty.

2.2 Warranty
Our warranty for defects is strictly limited to supplementary performance. We will eliminate any
defects or deliver substitute goods at our discretion. Where supplementary performance fails or is
disputed or impossible the customer has the right to withdraw from the contract. The manufacturer
explicitly limits the warranty to the filter itself. We are not reliable for consequential damage, or
damage caused by a malfunction or failure of the filter, such as a loss of animals.
2.3 Hidden defects
The customer is required to conduct a detailed inspection of the goods immediately after delivery.
Any defects should be reported immediately in writing. Hidden defects should be reported
immediately after their discovery. The customer should report damage caused during transport
within 24 hours to the carrier and/or the delivery service. If the customer fails to meet the
requirement to inspect the goods and report any defects or damage, then this will result in the loss
of warranty.
2.4 Improper application
We except no liability for the improper application, use, maintenance and handling of the product
by the customer or its subsidiaries, nor for usual wear and tear. This applies specifically to the
consequences of thermal, chemical, electrochemical or electrical influences as well as for
infringements of our use and maintenance guides. The same applies to damage resulting from
changes or adjustments made by the customer, which have not been approved by us in
beforehand.
2.5 Returning the product
Damage directly attributed to the improper use of the product is, in principle, for the customer’s
account. If the customer returns the product, break-proof packaging should be used. The customer
is liable for any damage that can be attributed to inappropriate packaging.
2.6 Claims
Claims against us become time-barred within a year after the initial delivery of the goods to the
customer. The same applies to damage claims regardless of their juridical cause. The limitation
period does not apply to claims based on the malicious concealment of damages, injury to life,
body or health or other damage resulting from intent or wanton negligence.
2.7 Spare parts
We hold spare parts available for a period of 5 years after initial shipment of the product. Our
respective list prices apply for spare parts.
2.8 Subject to alterations
The manufacturer has the right to change the product at any time without prior notice being
required, as long as these changes advance the reliability or quality of the product. No claims can
be made if, for example, the design, functionality or performance of the filter fundamentally
changes. The confirmed filter specifications are always guaranteed.
3. General
Congratulations on the purchase of your new filter.
3.1 Water Quality
SuperBead filters are ideally suited to koi ponds, ornamental fish tanks, fish holding systems and
aquaculture facilities. They provide excellent water clarity whilst at the same time working as an

efficient biological filter, breaking down fish waste. A correctly sized unit can achieve this clean and
clear water quality on its own, or it can be used in conjunction with other filter equipment.
3.2 Easy Cleaning
The SuperBead’s major advantage is the ease with which it can be cleaned. This simply involves
turning off the pump and opening the waste valve to start the backwash process.... no wet hands!
Trapped dirt is loosened from the media and flushed to waste. By carrying out this backwash
regularly, fish waste can be removed from the system before they have fully broken down. This
greatly reduces the nutrient loading on your system and further improves water quality for the fish.
On the automatic upgrade models the whole process can be fully automated to trigger valve
opening and backwashes.
3.3 Adaptable and versatile
Use the unit as a standalone filter, or use it to boost an existing filter system. Fit the SuperBead
filter near your existing pond, or at a distance. Site it at the pond edge, well above the pond or
below water level. Hide it behind a bush or fence, or even in a shed or garage. The unit takes up a
fraction of the space of some other types of filter, and no labour intensive excavation is necessary
to site it.
3.4 Straightforward to fit and use
SuperBead filters require no additional blowers or multiport valve operations to run or backwash.
But as with any equipment, the filter will function at its best if it is fitted and maintained correctly.
Please take a short while to look through this guide before you get going, so that you can get the
very best from your new filter system.
4. Use of the filter/Siting
Choosing the wrong site may cause the filter to function less well or make it awkward to carry out
maintenance in the future. The filter can be some distance from the pond, but use wider pipe bore
and a more powerful pump may be required to overcome the friction loss in the longer pipework.
4.1 Choose a site close to a drain for the waste water
Dirty water flows from the waste outlet during the backwash to a drain. Pipe it to a convenient
nearby drain. The drain or sump must be below the filter’s waste outlet. If necessary, raise the
filter higher, or fit a sump tank below the filter with an auto sump pump that can pump the waste
water away.
You can also connect a waste water pump directly to the filter waste outlet. In this situation, the
filter can be installed below water level.

IT IS ESSENTIAL THAT THE FILTER DRAINS QUICKLY.
RINSING THE FILTER MAY LAST UP TO 40 SECONDS FOR THE SMALL AND 2 MINUTES FOR
THE LARGE MODEL.
IF THIS TAKES MORE TIME, THE WORKING OF THE FILTER MIGHT BE NEGATIVELY
AFFECTED CAUSING THE BEADS TO CLOG IN THE LONG TERM.
4.2 The Siphon Head
The siphon head (see diagram) is the distance between the filter waste outlet and the air strainer
inlet to the filter. This distance is about 10 cm on the filters as supplied, which is adequate if waste
outlet piping is short (max. 2 metre). However, by simply raising the filter on a plinth (built from
one or two courses of standard building blocks topped with a paving slab) and adding an extension
pipe, the siphon head is increased and the efficiency of backwash greatly improved. We
recommend that this increased siphon head be created wherever possible.
4.3 Firm Base
The units are heavy when full of water and must be adequately supported for safety. Position the
filter on a level, purpose made slabbed area or concrete plinth.
4.4 Future Access
Regular access is required to the waste outlet valve and sludge drain. The internal strainers could
also need removing occasionally. The fittings at the base and top of the filter should therefore be
readily accessible and not permanently boxed in or buried. Use dismountable connections as
delivered along with the filter!
4.5 Outside or Under Cover?

The filters are suited to outdoor use but if sited in an outhouse, shed or garage, they will not only
be out of sight from the pond but also better protected from severe frosts (see 13, Winter Running
section).
4.6 Standard Flow Pattern
Water is pumped in through the 3-way valve and the intake and the intake strainer/screen up
through the unit. The floating beads pack down into the top of the unit, forming a filter-bed where
both biological breakdown of wastes and mechanical filtering of solids takes place. Filtered water
leaves through the outlet screen and outlet check valve.
4.7 The functioning
Bead filters have been in development since the 1970s. The distinctive necked design and the
bubble washing process are a key to its effectiveness.
The bubble-wash, as the beads tumble through the washing throat, removes dirt whilst leaving just
the right amount of biological film on the bead surface. Alternative means of cleaning the beads
(e.g. propellers, blowers or water jets) can carry a risk of removing too much of the beneficial
biological film, with a consequent drop in water quality. SuperBeads avoid this risk.
Fitting an automatic upgrade kit will further simplify the washing process by automatically opening
the waste valve, turning off the system pump and turning on the -eventual- flushing pump. The
timer of the automatic valve will ensure the backwashes are carried out as frequently as necessary.
5. Assembling the SuperBead Filter
CHECK THAT YOU HAVE ALL THE RELEVANT PARTS
READ THIS GUIDE BEFORE YOU START POSITIONING THE FILTER
DO NOT GLUE ANY PARTS YET

5.1 Connection parts

SuperBead

Model Small:
Standard inlet 90mm and outlet 63 mm
For UK & US inlet 3” and outlet 2”
Model Large:
Standard inlet and outlet 90 mm
For UK & US 3”
Pre-assembled (A/C):
A/C : Perforated pipe 110mm
Connections below (D) (inlet/waste)
• Flexible coupling 90x15 mm
• Flexible coupling 90mm
• 3-way valve (black)
• 15 cm clear PVC pipe, 90mm (waste)
• Reducer PVC, 90 x 3"
E&H: Air inlet
• Non return valve 1”
• 4 cm PVC pipe 1”
• Bend 90°, 1”
• PVC air inlet with strainer
F&I: Top outlet - return to pond
• Model Small: Flexible coupling 90x135 mm
• Model Small: Reducer PVC, 63x90 mm
• Model Small: 8 cm PVC pipe, 63 mm
• Model Small: Standard non-return valve 63 mm, split connector
UK & US: one side is 2”
• Model Large: Flexible reducer 90x135mm
• Model Large: 8 cm PVC pipe, 90 mm
• Model Large: Standard non-return valve 90 mm, split connector
UK & US: one side is 3”
Extra:
• Hose clip screwdriver 8mm
Filter material
• Model Small: Beads, 1⅓bags (total 33 kg)
• Model Large: Beads, 3 bags (total 75 kg)
You will also need some solvent cleaner and solvent pipe cement for the PVC pipe.
5.2 Fill the filter with Beads
• Fill with beads at the place where the filter will be placed, because the filter weighs more
than 50 kg (small)/100 kg (large) when filled with beads.
On new systems you may wish to ‘cure’ the beads. (see chapter ‘Running-in your filter’).

Do not add more beads than the filter is designed to hold. It can be useful to use a wide
funnel at this point to avoid losing beads. Only use genuine SuperBead Media to prevent
clogging of the strainers or valve assemblies. Use of inappropriate media will void your
guarantee.
• Screw the air inlet (hand tighten only) with strainer in the 11⁄2” thread of the filter (hole
2). Ensure the O-Ring is assembled. Do not glue the other parts of the air intake together
yet.
• Remove the upper (light yellow) 110mm perforated pipe.
• Lay down the filter and fill it with the bags of beads.
• Pull the filter back to its upright position.
• Mount the upper 110mm perforated pipe back again.
• Glue the other pieces of the air inlet to one unit: the bend to the short 1” PVC-pipe and this
to the non-return valve (also 1”).
Note that the arrow (FLOW) points downwards (so the flap opens downwards). The non-
return valve may also be rotated in a horizontal position (attention: with its pivot at the
top (!)).
5.3a Bottom inlet/waste - metric (No. 2)
• Mount the 135mm side of the flexible coupling to the SuperBead. Make sure the flexible
coupling is over the screw which fixes the perforated tube to the housing. This can be
pretty tight. If necessary, open the hose clamp as far as it will go.
• Assemble the 3-way valve at the 90 mm side of this coupling
• Connect the 90mm coupling to one of the two free sides of the 3-way valve
• Connect on the other side of the coupling the clear pipe
• From here you can connect to the waste with the 90 mm pipe. See 5.5 for extending the
waste- outlet.
• Glue the reducer 90mm - 3”, with the 3” side, to the last free side of the 3-way valve.
• From here you can connect to the pump with the 90 mm pipe.
Be sure to use the correct diameter piping:
• 50mm: max 8 m3/hour
• 63mm: max 15 m3/hour
• 75mm: max 20 m3/hour
• 90mm: max 30 m3/hour
• 110mm: max 40 m3/hour
The inlet and waste of the 3-way valve can also be mounted the other way around
5.3b Bottom inlet/waste - inches (No. 2)
• Mount the 135mm side of the flexible coupling to the SuperBead. Make sure the flexible
coupling is over the screw which fixes the perforated tube to the housing. This can be
pretty tight. If necessary, open the hose clamp as far as it will go.
• Assemble the 3-way valve at the 90 mm side of this coupling
• Connect the 90mm coupling to one of the two free sides of the 3-way valve
• Connect on the other side of the coupling the clear pipe
• Glue the reducer 90mm - 3” to the other side of the clear pipe
• From here you can connect to the waste with 3” pipe. See 5.5 for extending the waste-
outlet.
• The last free side of the 3-way valve must be connected to the pump. You can choose 2½
(inside diameter) or 3” (outside diameter).
Be sure to use the correct diameter piping:
• 1½": max 8 m3/hour

• 2": max 15 m3/hour
• 2½": max 20 m3/hour
• 3": max 30 m3/hour
• 4": max 40 m3/hour
The inlet and waste of the 3-way valve can also be mounted the other way around
5.4 Top outlet (A)
NOTE: IF YOU ARE USING INCHES THE PACKAGE HAS A DIFFERENT NON-RETURN VALVE:
ONE SIDE OF THE NON-RETURN VALVE IS 63 (SMALL) /90 MM (LARGE) AND THE OTHER
SIDE IS 2”/3”
• Mount the 135mm side of the flexible coupling to the SuperBead. Make sure the flexible
coupling is over the screw which fixes the perforated tube to the housing. This can be
pretty tight. If necessary, open the hose clamp as far as it will go.
• Model Small: Glue the 8cm, 63 mm pipe in the non-return valve; if you are using inches
in the 63 mm side! Glue the PVC reducer (63x90mm) at the other side of this
tube.
• Model Large: Glue the 8cm, 90 mm pipe in the non-return valve; if you are using inches
in the 90 mm side!

•
Now press this complete part in the 90 mm (3”) side of the flexible coupling.
• Note that the arrow of the non-return valve points from the filter and that the
valve is mounted horizontally (with its pivot at the top). The valve is equipped
with split connectors.
• Model Small: From here you can connect to the pond with 63 mm or 2”.
• Model Large: From here you can connect to the pond with 90 mm or 3”.
Be sure to use the correct diameter piping:
• 50mm/1½": max 8 m3/hour
• 63mm/2": max 15 m3/hour
• 75mm/2½": max 20 m3/hour
• 90mm/3": max 30 m3/hour
• 110mm/4": max 40 m3/hour
5.5 Extending the waste-outlet

We recommend that the waste-outlet is extended using piping of at least 63mm/2” and preferably
90mm/3” on the larger models. Piping length should be restricted to a maximum of 3 metres. The
outlet of the piping should preferably be at least 10cm lower than the filter outlet. The rapid
draining of waste from this outlet ensures a vigorous bead wash.
Avoid using excessive numbers of bends and avoid undulations in the pipework that might
introduce airlocks.
The very final section of waste pipe, whether a vertical or horizontal drop, can be fitted with a
small restriction. This slight restriction ensures that when the filter is drained, the entire waste pipe
fills with water, driving out air and starting a siphon action, which helps to suck water from the
filter. Remember: Rapid draining (40 seconds for the Small and 2 minutes for the Large model) of
water from the waste outlet is essential for an efficient filter backwash. The filter should ideally be
relatively close to your drainage system or soak-away for ease of waste-water disposal.
SUPERBEAD SMALL:
RINSING THE FILTER MAY LAST UP TO 40 SECONDS.
SUPERBEAD LARGE:
RINSING THE FILTER MAY LAST UP TO 2 MINUTES.
IF THIS TAKES MORE TIME, THE WORKING OF THE FILTER CAN BE NEGATIVELY
AFFECTED.
IN THE LONG TERM CLOGGING OF BEADS CAN OCCUR.
If this is not possible, and also siting the filter as described in 4.1/4.2 is not an option, we strongly
recommend the use of a cheap flushing pump with sufficient pumping capacity (20-30m3/hr). The
flushing pump is connected to the waste connection of the SuperBead. When flushing the
SuperBead, you start the flushing pump which empties the filter within the restricted time. In this
way, it’s also possible to have the waste above water level and/or filter installation level.
5.6 Plumbing Tips
AFTER THE SUPERBEAD, NO PRESSURE RAISING EQUIPMENT SHOULD BE MOUNTED
The backpressure after the SuperBead must be as low as possible: max. 5 meter head/0.5 bar!
High back pressure is easily created at high flow rates in combination with long (too narrow) pipe
bores and/ or pressure-rising equipment such as heaters and/or UV-Units. The top or bottom
flexible coupling mounted on the filter might be pushed off of the filter if the backpressure after the
filter is too high. If this happens, you have to mount a screw/bolt to secure these flexible
couplings. To minimise pressure loss on the inlet and backpressure on the outlets:
• use wider pipe/hose bores wherever possible
• all pipe fittings (including UVs) must have the widest possible bores
• avoid multiple fittings with internal restrictions
• avoid using valves on the top filter outlet.
• consider swept rather than knuckle bends and keep bends to a minimum
• flexible hose should be heavy duty, crushproof, opaque, smooth bore, and suited to the
pressures likely to be found in the system.
To prevent strain on the filter inlet/outlet fittings:
• support pipework with pipe-clips etc., it is heavy when full of water!
• avoid the weight of pumps or external UVs being carried by the inlet/outlet fittings. Failure
to do so, could void your guarantee.
• you may not want to fix/glue the pipework permanently until after the test run has taken
place./span>
6. Choosing the correct size of pump
The pump size is related both to the volume it pumps and the pressure with which it pumps. The
maximum pump flows to aim for are shown in the table in section 6.3. It is possible to run the filter
at lower flow rates when used on smaller systems or if ‘ticking over’ during winter months. For best
results the filter should be run at no less than 30% of the rated maximum flow. This flow is

required to supply the filter organisms with the necessary oxygenated water for efficient
filtration. 6.1 The Minimum Head
There is some loss of pressure across the bead bed, especially as the filter approaches the time for
backwash. Although pumps with a relatively low maximum head (2 metres) may be powerful
enough to completely fill the filter when the pump is first switched on, there is a risk with such
pumps of ‘underpressure’, which leads to poor filter performance. To avoid this we recommend
using pumps with a rated head of at least 2.5 metres (8 feet) or at least 2 metres more than the
‘working head’ of the pump. The working head is the vertical distance between the water level in
the originating pond/tank, and the highest point in the filter/pipework loop that returns to the
pond. Flow rates should be calculated at the pump’s working head, not the maximum pump flows
quoted by some manufacturers, which are taken at zero head.
6.2 Maximum druk
On these filter models we recommend that the filter hull is not exposed to pressures exceeding 0.7
bar, equivalent to a head of 7 metres. Never use a high pressure pump (e.g. a powerful swimming
pool pump) as these may exceed the pressure rating. Such pumps can also give high pressure
surges when started. Therefore, for all pumps with a quoted head exceeding 7 metres we consider
it essential to use a bypass tee before the filter inlet, with an appropriate pressure regulating
spring-check valve (min. 1.5”/50mm bore) to prevent excess pressures building on the
filter./span>
N.B. FAILURE TO USE A BYPASS IN SUCH SITUATIONS WILL VOID THE FILTER
GUARANTEE!
6.3 Which Pump
The table below notes the maximum filter flow rates and the volumes that might be filtered at a
two or three hour turnover rate. On heavily stocked commercial systems the required turnover rate
might be once or more per hour, and the volume treated would need to be reduced accordingly.
Your dealer should be able to recommend suitable pump models. Remember that a small pump
may not suit longer pipe runs or high head situations. If in doubt, it is better to have a slightly
larger pump, rather than to have a small pump with no spare capacity. Surface mounted pumps
should be of the self priming type or installed in a way that ensures they cannot run dry.
Modell
Max. feed rate per day
(Max. Koi @ 1% feed rate)
Max. flow m3/hr
Max. pond volume
Suggested pump size
Small
400 gm
17.5 m3/hr
25 m3
2.5-17.5 m3/hr @ 0.2 bar
Large
1000 gm
35 m3/hr
70 m3
5-35 m3/hr @ 0.2 bar
6.4 Strainers
SuperBead filters contain internal screens with slots of c. 1.5 mm spacing designed to prevent loss
of beads. The rate of internal screen clogging will be reduced if solids of greater than 1.5 - 2 mm
and strands of blanket weed are removed before being pumped to the filter. This greatly reduces
the need for screen maintenance. Therefore it is very important to fit an appropriate strainer
before the inlet or a device (like a welded screen sieve or drum filter) filtering out fine particles
(also see Appendix Two). Very fine additional strainers (e.g. fine open-cell foam blocks) are neither
necessary nor desirable, unless specified by pump manufacturers.
7. The correct size of ultra violet (UV) unit
UV units are a recommended option for control of ultra- fine green algae and bacteria causing
milky water. Their use is described in Appendix One.

8. Important Points
8.1 Air-breaks and Negative pressure
If the filter return outlet beside the pond is below the level of the air inlet check valve on the filter,
there is a slight risk of siphoning occurring. If siphoning occurs, air can be drawn into the filter
through the air inlet during normal running. These bubbles can disrupt the filter media causing
water cloudiness and also result in a dripping air inlet.
This is more prevalent on:
• new or very clean filters
• filters with undersized pumps
• filters with long runs of wide bore piping on the return to the pond
• filters where the pump flow has been throttled back, either by a valve on the pump outlet,
or because the pump inlet strainer is clogging.
You can tell if underpressure is the cause of a dripping air inlet by placing your hand temporarily
over the return outlet to the pond. If the dripping stops within a minute, then underpressure is the
likely cause.
8.2 Aeration of filtered water returned to the pond
System water must be aerated at some point as both the fish and the filter bacteria can consume
high amounts of oxygen, especially in warm weather. Consider using a sieve unit before the filter,
or a return that encourages some re-aeration of the water, e.g. cascades.
8.3 Non-return valves/Footvalves
To prevent surface pumps from losing their prime when installed above water level, manufacturers
may recommend that a non-return valve (‘foot valve’) is situated by the pump.
The inlet valve may be sufficient to maintain prime following short periods when the pump is
turned off, but to guarantee prime, site the pump at a level below that of the water in the adjacent
pond.
8.4 Operating SuperBead without a pre-filter
The recommendation is that the coarse dirt particles should always be removed from the water
with the aid of a sieve system or a drum filter before it enters the SuperBead. The benefit of this is
that the load on the filter is, on the one hand, less, and on the other hand that it may also reduce
the rinsing frequency. Keeping the SuperBead's perforated pipe at the inlet clean is even more
important. The perforated pipe has small gaps of approx. 1.5 mm that ensure that the granules
stay within the housing.
While each rinse will also partially clean this pipe and although the pipe by design is large, leaves
and algae in particular could still clog it over time.
A pre-filter is not necessary when the filter is used for an indoor basin, although it is
recommended.
If conditions are such that it is not possible to install a pre-filter in an outdoor pond, then the
SuperBead may only be installed under the following conditions:
• Small model, only for ponds up to a maximum of 7 m3
• Large model, only for ponds up to a maximum of 15 m3
• No trees in the immediate vicinity of the pond
There is a higher probability that the internal screen will become clogged. In addition, the filter
tends to accumulate more dirt internally. The rinsing frequency may have to be increased.
In addition, the perforated pipe must be cleaned at a higher frequency. Especially if the pump's
capacity, even after rinsing, is clearly lower than the capacity measured when the filter was
installed, this is an indication that either the rinsing frequency is too low or the filter's perforated
pipe is clogged.

9. Starting the filter for the first time
Start up the pump, do not turn on UVs at this stage. The 3-way valve should be in the correct
position (pump to filter open). As the filter fills, the beads will rattle against the side of the filter
body but the noise will stop once the filter is full. The beads and/ or pipework may be slightly
dusty, so you may wish to direct the first few litres of water to waste this first time.
It is a good idea to measure the flow rate of water returning to the pond. Use a graduated bucket
and stopwatch to calculate the flow rate. Adjust the flow rate as required by using a flow regulator
on the pump outlet. Do not fit flow regulators on the filter outlet. This raises the back pressure on
the filter.
If a pressure gauge has been fitted, note the typical pressure on the dial and make a note of it e.g.
in this guidebook.
Check for leaks. If there are no leaks and water output is flowing evenly, your SuperBead filter is
operating properly.
Now is a good time to carry out a trial backwash cycle.
• There is no need to get your hands wet or dirty from cleaning media. Simply turn off the
pump and switch the handle of the 3-way valve to the opposite position. The top-outlet
check valve will close and waste water starts to run from the waste outlet.
• Immediately, make a note of the time or use a stopwatch.
Put your ear to the side of the filter and listen. Air is sucked into the filter through the air
inlet check valve. As beads tumble clean in the cascade of air bubbles they rattle against
the side of the filter body. Allow the filter to drain down completely. This first time, the
water from the waste valve should be no more dirty than the pond water itself. Listening to
the unit allows you to hear what a normal backwash should sound like.
• As soon as the flow from the waste outlet drops to a trickle, make a note of the time or
turn off your stopwatch.
THE FILTER SHOULD BE EMPTIED WITHIN 40 SECONDS (SMALL) OR 2 MINUTES
(LARGE)
The time taken to drain the filter is representative of the minimum time that your filter is
likely to take for a backwash cycle and acts as a benchmark to compare with in future.
Note this time in the space on the last page. Always allow time for the filter to drain down
completely.
• Switch back the 3-way valve and restart the pump. Note the time taken for the filter to
refill on the last page. This will also act as a benchmark for the future as it gives an
indication of the cleanliness of the strainer on your pump and the perforated pipe in the
SuperBead.
Your filter is now tested and operating correctly. The floating bead media packs down in the top of
the filter and will soon start to filter out particles. Filtration of the finest particles and biological
breakdown of waste also takes place here once the filter has matured.
10. Running-in your filter
Apart from backwashes, your filter should run 24 hours a day to support the biological organisms
that will colonise the filter media; just like your fish they need oxygenated water to flourish.
Although mechanical filtration starts straight away, it can take up to three months for full biological
activity to mature, especially in brand new ponds and in cold weather. Patience is necessary during
this phase. If there are no fish in the pond, commercial additives are available that contain
ammonium salts and nitrites that imitate fish waste and help the filter to mature. Otherwise, there
are a number of steps that you can take to aid the maturing process:
• Consider ‘curing’ the beads. All plastic media have a smooth surface that can take some
time for bacteria to colonise. There is anecdotal evidence to suggest that soaking the beads
in a strong solution of Potassium Permanganate (1gram per 10 litres for ten minutes) can
help to oxidise the plastic surface and leave a thin deposit that can encourage bacterial
attachment. Rinse the beads in fresh water before adding them to the filter.
• Do not immediately introduce large numbers of fish. Build up fish stocks gradually using
hardy fish of lower value to begin with.
• Feed fish more lightly than normal in the first two months.

• After the first few days of operation, add a commercial filter seeding agent that contains
filter bacteria. Alternatively swill out the debris from an existing healthy (!) pond filter and
pour it into the pond near the pump intake.
• Avoid the use of pond medications during the filter maturing period. Some medications can
severely disrupt filter organisms and many medications can temporarily reduce filter
activity, especially on first use. If in doubt ask a specialist before using any treatments.
• Avoid turning on UV units during the first month. The water may green temporarily but this
is rarely harmful.
You can monitor the maturing process by using standard pond test kits. The most useful ones at
this stage are pH, nitrite (NO2), ammonia/ammonium (NH3/NH4) and nitrate (NO3). The pH
should remain relatively stable and need only be checked occasionally at this stage. Typically,
acceptable pond pH values range from 6.5 to 9.0 with the ideal range for pond fish being between
7.0 and 8.5.
10.1 Establishing Nitrification
The major soluble waste product produced by fish is ammonia and its ammonium salts, and this is
the first product to build up in the water. Bacteria that break down organic waste and uneaten food
also add to the levels of ammonia in the water. Within a week or two (in a few days in warm
weather), specific bacteria that feed on ammonia start to build up on the surfaces of the beads in
the filter, and they begin to break the ammonia down into nitrites. As the nitrite levels become
more detectable in the water, the ammonia levels usually start to fall. Finally, other specific
bacteria increase in numbers to feed on the nitrites converting them to nitrates. The whole process
that results in the breakdown of these nitrogen containing products is known as nitrification and
the fluctuations in these waste products typically follows the pattern illustrated in the adjacent
graph.
Typical water quality during filter maturation
Ammonia (NH3/NH4) and nitrite (NO2) are both stressful to fish, and whilst they are present in the
water, further additions of fish should be avoided. Once the filter has matured sufficiently, these
two waste products should be reduced to below detectable levels and only the more benign nitrate

(NO3) may be detectable. However, a sudden increase in loading at any stage (with fish or fish
food) may overwhelm the filter resulting in a reappearance of ammonia and nitrite until the filter
bacteria can increase in numbers to cope.
11. When to backwash the SuperBead filter
During the maturing period, whilst new ponds are relatively free of waste, the filter will take some
time to become dirty. The delicate film that supports the growing filter bacteria will also begin to
form on the surface of the beads. In order to avoid disrupting the bacteria at this crucial early
stage, avoid backwashing the filter for two to four weeks, especially in ponds with clean water. The
major sign that a backwash is necessary is when there is a notable drop in the flow from the filter
outlet. Check that this is not merely due to the strainer on the pump or inlet of the perforated pipe
of the filter becoming clogged.
If the flow has dropped to around a one third of the initial rate (or the inlet pressure gauge, where
fitted, has risen to 1.4 psi / 0.1 bar above the typical level when clean), then the backwash
procedure must be carried out.
11.1 Monitoring the standard backwash
• Turn off the pump. Switch the 3-way valve completely to the opposite position. The top-
outlet check valve closes.
• As water drains, air is sucked into the filter through the air inlet check valve. Remember to
listen for typical sounds as the filter empties. The beads drop through the washing throat
and are tumbled clean in churning water and air bubbles. Observe the waste water. Dirt
trapped by the beads will wash out near the end of the flush. For best results allow the
filter to drain down completely.
• Once the flow drops to a trickle from the drain, switch back the 3-way valve and restart the
pump.
• It is quite normal for the first few litres of water from the filter top outlet to the pond to be
a little cloudy. This is not harmful and the filter will soon remove these particles and
maintain the clarity of the pool. If the filter was particularly dirty, carrying out a partial fill
and further backwash will remove additional waste.
Once the filter has matured the standard backwash frequencies must be implemented. Once
established, the beneficial bacteria on the surface of the beads can withstand numerous backwash
cycles without any major disruption of nitrification. Indeed, tests have shown that the gentle
bubble wash actually improves the efficiency of nitrification by the filter bacteria. If in doubt
...backwash!
11.2 Recommended minimum backwash cycles
Minimum Backwash Frequency
Backwash Water Lo
(approximat
Model
Winter <10°C
Spring & Autumn
Summer
Small
once or twice weekly
3 to 4 times a week
once a day
150 litres
Large
once or twice weekly
2 to 3 times a week
once a day
400 litres
Regular backwashing flushes out solid waste before they break down and pollute the water. Also,
by removing waste at this stage, nutrients are removed from the water and the growth of algae
can be reduced further. The process keeps the filter at maximum biological efficiency and
minimises the need for any other maintenance. Regular backwashing is essential in heavy loading
situations. On automated aquaculture systems the filter can be set to backwash every few hours if
required. You simply cannot backwash a SuperBead filter too often. The bubble-wash and necked-
design are keys to the efficiency of the SuperBead filter. They aid the cleaning of the beads whilst
maintaining a healthy thin film of biological organisms on the bead surface. Unlike static chamber
filters where media can become coated in an excessively thick biofilm, the bubble-wash ensures
that the maximum proportion of bead surface area is always available for biological filtration to
take place.
11.3 Making the backwash fully automatic

Manual backwashing by turning off the pump and operating the 3-way valve is easy enough, but
does not make full use of the automatic potential of the filter. Make the whole process fully
automatic by fitting an automatic motor on top of the 3-way valve. Ask your supplier about
availability.
12 Long term maintenance
12.1 Monitoring
It is very important to periodically monitor the backwash operation:
• listen to the beads sloshing in the filter
• check the backwash time and the action of the check valves
Aim to monitor this operation at least once per week. This will show up any possible problems
before they become serious.
12.2 Additional Monthly Maintenance
Once a month an additional series of backwashes should be carried out - three to five times in a
row. This dislodges any more persistent waste that may have collected in the filter, and further
reduces the risk of bead clumping.
On heavily loaded aquaculture systems or when food is used with high levels of fat and protein this
procedure can be carried out every one to two weeks.
12.3 Check valves
The top outlet check valve and air inlet check valve are low maintenance items. Very occasionally
the facing or seating may need to be cleaned. If the air inlet drips, see the troubleshooting guide
and the section on air breaks and underpressure (8.1).
12.4 Pump Strainers
Remember that the strainer on the pump will need to be cleaned from time to time. If this
becomes clogged with debris or blanket weed, the filter may not fill or drain correctly, flow rates
will be affected and the air inlet may drip.

12.5 Waste and Top Outlet Screens
Over time, the waste outlet (bottom) screen (or very rarely the top outlet screen) may slowly clog
with more persistent immoveable dirt, strands of algae, or snails, especially when no pre-filter has
been used. Periodic removal and cleaning of the screens may prove necessary in these cases,
especially if too coarse a strainer is being used with the pump. Using a suitable pre-strainer (see
sketch at section 4.1) and carrying out the regular series of extra backwashes (see 12.2) will
minimise the need for maintenance to these screens.
13 Winter Running
In the winter when temperatures are lower (below 8-10°C), feeding rates for koi should be reduced
and maintenance can be less frequent. To avoid chilling the fish in water currents, avoid drawing in
water from the pool base and instead draw from 30-60 cm below the surface. Consider reducing
the flow rate through the system – biological and filtering activity will still take place in the
SuperBead Filter even at only 30% of maximum recommended flows.
ICE CAN DAMAGE YOUR FILTER!
Wherever penetrating frost may be a problem, insulate filter pipework, valves, the filter, external
UVs and top-up valves and pipework. Take special care of pipes where there is little water
movement e.g. the waste pipe. Standard closed-cell pipe insulation wrap and hot- water-cylinder
jackets can be used but make sure that they are kept dry for maximum insulation. As the filter is
sealed, and produces no smells, it is often desirable to position it in a frost-free outhouse, garage
or utility room. This gives additional protection from freezing even if the pump should stop due to
power failure.
13.1 Closing the filter down as an option
On smaller systems and in very cold climates, an option is to turn the filter off after the first severe
frost and leave it clean and dry until the spring. To prepare it for winter carry out four backwashes
in a row to leave the beads as clean as possible, and then leave the filter to dry. Disconnect the
pump from the inlet and leave the outlet completely open..
14 Water Quality Maintenance
The filter may have passed its initial maturing period, but biological filters continue to mature over
months and years as different micro-organisms establish on the filter media. This maturing process
can be set back by long power cuts or when pool treatments are used, especially for the first time.
14.1 Partial water changing
The water quality also continues to change due to the gradual build up of products in the water e.g.
nitrates (NO3) & dissolved solids. Conversely, some minerals may become depleted in the water as
they are used up by the fish, plants and filter organisms. In lakes this aging process in the water
body is offset by streams and heavy rains which bring in fresh water and new supplies of minerals,
and flush out wastes that are building to excess. In a closed system like a koi pond it is necessary
to carry out regular partial water changes to mimic these natural refreshing processes.
The backwash process loses some water, which will need to be made up with new water added to
the pond. This is most easily carried out with an automatic top-up valve. This waste removal and
top-up acts as a partial water change. In a system running at close to maximum pool volume
capacity, the lower recommended frequency of backwashing might only result in a water change of
around 1% in a summer week. This level of water changing is much too low to maintain water
quality in the long term and additional partial water changes will be necessary.
14.2 Set the backwash frequency to water change for you
An easy option is to carry out backwashes at a rate which will give you the level of water change
required per week, e.g. 5% per week in the summer is the rate used by many koi-keepers. The
table (11.2) shows the typical water loss per backwash. A high frequency of backwashing does not