Alde COMPACT 3000 92X User manual

Service Manual – Compact 3000, 92X 93X 94X
GB

2
This service handbook is intended to assist with servicing and fault-nding in caravans and motor caravans
equipped with the Alde Compact 3000 92x-94x. The handbook may also be of assistance in ordering spare parts.
It also provides general information on how Alde central heating systems are designed, and how they operate.
When servicing components designed for LPG and 230 volts, national safety regulations must be adhered to.
After the boiler has been serviced, the service record must always be completed.
Alde International Systems AB
Service department
NB! We reserve the right to make changes after this handbook has been printed.
FOREWORD

3
Roof vent
Window
Air intake
Radiator
The central heating system uses two or three heat sources
– an LPG boiler and a 230 volt electrical heating cartridge,
as well as an externally-tted heat exchanger for motor
caravans. The LPG boiler/heating cartridge heats up a
liquid mixture consisting of water (60%) and glycol (40%).
With the aid of a 12-volt circulation pump, which is located
in an expansion vessel, the warm glycol/water mixture is
circulated round the system through pipes and radiators.
The radiators, which are tted along the outer walls, heat
up the air, which rises and warms the walls and furniture.
As the warm air rises, it forms an air-barrier which keeps
the cold away from the windows.
The temperature inside the caravan is controlled by a 12
volt thermostat on the control panel.
1:0 ABOUT THE ALDE CENTRAL HEATING
SYSTEM
CONTENTS
LPG boiler
Compact 3000
Radiator
Heat exchanger 2968
Flue
Page Chap
3 1:0 About the Alde central heating system
4 1:1 Care of the heating system
5 2:0 About the Compact 3000
5 2:1 Technical data
6 3:0 Fault-nding
6 3:1 The electrical heating cartridge does not
work
7 3:2 The LPG boiler do not start
7 3:2:1 The LPG boiler shuts down on start-up
7 3:2:2 No ignition spark
8 3:2:3 Ignition spark is generated but the boiler
does not start
8 3:3 The LPG boiler starts but goes out after
approx. 10 seconds
9 3:4 The LPG boiler starts and switches off at
short intervals
9 3:5 Noisy fan
9 3:6 Noisy burner
9 3:7 Unstable or violent ignition
9 3:8 Other technical information
10 4:0 Replacing components
10 4:1 Replacing the printed circuit board
10 4:2 Replacing fan
Page Chap
11 4:3 Replacing a burner (new model)
11 4:4 Replacing the spark electrode
11 4:5 Replacing the ame sensor
12 4:6 Replacing the solenoid valve
13 4:7:1 Replacing a 1 kW heating cartridge
14 4:7:2 Replacing a 2 kW heating cartridge
15 4:8 Replacing the operating thermostat
15 4:9 Replacing the overheating protection
device
16 4:10 Replacing the pressure switch
16 5:0 Safety check
17 6:0 Wiring diagram with control panel 3000 266
18 6:1 Wiring diagram with control panel 3000 380
19 6:2 Wiring diagram for 3000 465
19 6:3 Wiring diagram for 3000 465 (with auxiliay
functions)
20 6:4 Wiring diagram for 3000 565 (with auxiliay
functions)
21 6:5 Circuit diagram 12 V and 230 V~
21 6:6 Flow chart 230 V~
22 7:0 Exploded diagram
23 7:1 Article numbers for exploded diagram
24 8:0 Faultnding Compact 3000
25 9:0 Spare parts
26 9:0 Spare parts

4
Check the heating system’s uid level regularly in the
expansion vessel. The level should be approximately 10
mm above the ”min” mark when the system is cold. The
heating system should be lled with a mixture of water
and glycol. For preference, use high quality pre-mixed
glycol (with inhibitor) intended for use in aluminium heating
systems. If using concentrated glycol, the mixture should
consist of 60% water and 40% glycol. If the heating system
will be exposed to temperatures below –25°C, the glycol
content must be increased, but not to more than 50%.
Any vessels used in handling the liquid must be spotlessly
clean, and the pipes in the heating system must be free of
contamination. This will prevent the growth of bacteria in
the system. The glycol mixture should be changed every
second year, since its ability to protect against corrosion,
for example, will deteriorate.
The glycol content should be checked before topping up
with new liquid. This will ensure that the concentration of
glycol in the mixture is not too high.
If the uid level in the expansion tank falls for reasons other
than evaporation, check all joints, drain cocks and bleeder
screws to ensure that they are not leaking. If the glycol-
water mixture leaks out, rinse with water and wipe up.
Never allow the heating system to stand empty of glycol
uid.
Adding liquid:
Ensure that the vehicle is standing level, and check that
the bleeder screws and drain cocks are closed. Release
the plastic nut on the circulation pump, located on the
expansion vessel, and lift out the pump. Pour the glycol
mixture slowly into the expansion vessel, using a watering
can. When the system is being lled, air-pockets may form,
depending on how the pipe-system has been installed.
A good indication that there is air in the system is when
the heat only travels a few metres along the pipe from
the boiler, despite the fact that the circulation pump is
operating.
To make relling and bleeding easier, we recommend using
the Alde lling pump which quickly both lls and bleeds the
system automatically.
Bleeding a caravan heating system (manually):
The LPG boiler must be switched on and the circulation
pump switched off. Start by opening the bleeder screws
(please refer to the vehicle instruction book for their
location). Leave them open until liquid escapes through the
spout at the air screw. Switch on the circulation pump and
let it run for a while. Check whether the pipes and radiators
all around the caravan are warm.
If air still remains in the system, try the following:
The LPG must be switched on and the circulation pump
switched off. Lower the front of the caravan as far as
possible using the jockey wheel. Leave it in this position for
several minutes, to allow any air to rise to the highest point
in the system. Open the bleeder screw at the highest point
and keep it open until all the air has escaped. Raise the
front of the caravan as high as possible using the jockey
wheel, and repeat the process. Return the caravan to a
horizontal position and start the circulation pump. Check
that the heat is circulating all around the caravan.
When bleeding a bogey wagon or a motor caravan, it is
easier to park on a steep slope, or raise the vehicle using a
jack.
Filling pump
Art. no. 1900 811
1:1 MAINTAINING THE HEATING SYSTEM

5
2:0 ABOUT THE COMPACT 3000
2:1 TECHNICAL DATA
The set-up of the boiler
The boiler consists of three eccentrically-tted pipes. The
innermost pipe is a heat exchanger made from extruded
aluminium. This is surrounded by a water jacket containing
a 40% glycol mixture which is the uid for the heating
system. The fresh-water heater is located outside the water
jacket. The two outer pipes, as well as their ends and
connections, are made from stainless steel.
The heat exchanger is divided into two semi-circular parts
by a u-shaped bafe plate. The burner is located in the
upper semi-circle, the combustion chamber. The bafe
plate leads the ue gases back into the lower part of the
section, which constitutes the convection part.
The burner unit is tted on the end of the heat exchanger.
It consists of a combustion fan, burner, solenoid valve with
built-in relief valve and intake/exhaust connections. The
exhaust gases escape through the inner tube, and fresh air
enters through the outer tube. The exhaust fumes exit the
vehicle via a hose and ue tted either to the roof or to the
wall. Fresh air enters via the same ue (balanced draft).
2 or 3 electrical heating cartridges are tted to the upper
part of the water jacket.
The output of the cartridges
is either 2x1 kW or 3x1 kW
(alt. 2+1 kW), depending
on boiler model.
How the boiler works.
When the room thermostat calls for heat, i.e. the
temperature in the vehicle is lower than the set room
temperature, the circulation pump starts. The liquid in
the heating system then starts circulating, and cold liquid
enters the boiler. The boiler’s operating thermostat senses
that the temperature of the liquid is too low. A signal
is sent to switch on the fan. When the pressure in the
pressure switch is sufciently high, a signal is sent to the
electronics box to generate an ignition spark and to open
the solenoid valves to allow gas to enter the system. Once
the temperature in the vehicle has reached the temperature
set on the room thermostat, the circulation pump stops. The
operating thermostat senses that the liquid has reached the
right temperature and the boiler is switched off. When the
temperature of the liquid has fallen a few degrees again,
the boiler restarts. This ensures that there is always hot
liquid available when the room thermostat calls for heat,
and that the fresh water in the boiler is always warm.
An electrical heater works in the same way, but the signal
from the thermostat is sent to the relays which start the
electrical cartridges.
Liquid volume / Pressure
Liquid volume, glycol mix: 4,1 liter
Liquid volume, fresh water: 8,4 liter
Max pressure, heating system: 0,5 bar
Max pressure, fresh water: 3,0 bar
230 V ~
Output electrical cartridge (2 kW): 1050+1050 W
Output electrical cartridge (3 kW): 1050+1050+1050 W
12 V DC
Current consumption: 1 amp (max) incl. circ. pump
Fuse: 2 amp
Electronics
box
Thermostat
Overheating
protection
Fan Pressure switch
Burner
Electrical heating
cartridges
Hot water jacket,
fresh water
Water jacket,
glycol mixture
Solenoid
valve
Measurements: Height Width Depth
Boiler size: 300 mm 345 mm 490 mm
Rec. Min. install. dimensions. 310 mm 400 mm 550 mm
Weight: 6,5 kg
Gas:
Gas pressure: I3+ 28-30/37 mbar, I3B/P 30 mbar, I3B/P 50 mbar
Output, Propane: 5,2 kW
Output, Butane: 6,0 kW
Consumption, Propane: 380 g/h
Consumption, Butane: 430 g/h

6
3:1 THE ELECTRICAL HEATING CARTRIDGE
DOES NOT WORK
Cause:
- Check that the changeover switches on the control panel
are in the correct positions (see operating instruction for
boiler).
- The 12 V fuse has blown.
- No or low voltage to the boiler. (< 12 V).
- 230 volt not connected.
- The overheating protection device has been triggered.
- The thermostat is broken/damaged
- Damaged printed circuit board.
- Damaged electrical heating cartridge.
- Faulty wiring or wire connections.
Action:
During faultnding, the hot water switch must be in the
ON position and the power plug switched to 2 or 3 kW
on the control panel.
- Check that the 12 V fuse (see g. 1 A) is intact.
- Measure the input voltage. It must be no lower than
10.8 V.
- Check that the 230-volt cable is connected and that the
vehicle is connected to a 230-volt outlet.
- Check that the overheating protection device has not
tripped. If necessary, reset by rst unscrewing the black
protective cap, then pressing down the reset button (see
g. 1 B). When the overheating protection device has
been reset, there must be a 12-volt input on one at-pin
terminal and 12-volt output on the other (see g. 2 A),
otherwise it is defective and must be replaced.
N.B! If the overheating protection device has tripped
it cannot be reset until the boiler has cooled 10-20°C.
Before the boiler is restarted, check that it has been bled
thoroughly.
- Check that the operating thermostat is turned to the
maximum clockwise position (see g. 1 C).
- Check that there is voltage (12 V) on at-pin terminal
12 (grey cable, low temperature) and terminal 22 (blue
cable, high temperature), see g. 2. If there is no voltage
on terminals 12 and 22, but there is voltage on terminal
11 (red cable), the operating thermostat must be repla-
ced.
- Check that there is voltage on pos. 9 on the P1 printed
circuit board (see g. 3). If not, the printed circuit board
must be replaced.
- Check that there is voltage on pos. 12 and 15 on the P1
printed circuit board (see g. 3). If not, there is a fault in
the wiring or on the control panel.
- Check the resistance of the electrical heating cartridge
(approx. 50 ohm for 1 kW, and 25 ohm for 2 kW) and the
insulation to earth (> 1 Mohm). In the event of a fault,
replace the cartridge.
- Check that the wiring connections are intact and correctly
tted.
- If none of the above measures solves the problem,
replace the printed circuit board. The fault will lie in the
control relays for 12/230 volts.
3:0 FAULTFINDING
A
B
C
A
Grey 12
Blue 22
9
15
12
Red 11Red
BE AWARE OF THE RISKS OF 230 V DURING ALL SERVICE WORK
Fig 1.
Fig 2.
Fig 3.

7
When the overheating protection device has been reset,
there should be a 12-volt input on one at-pin connector,
and a 12-volt output on the other (see g. 2 A), otherwise
it is defective and must be replaced. The overheating
protection is broken if there is 12 volt on only one cable.
NB! If the overheating protection device has tripped, it
cannot be reset until the boiler has cooled by 10-20°C.
Before the boiler is restarted, check that it has been bled
thoroughly.
- Check that the operating thermostat is turned to the maxi-
mum clockwise position (see g. 1 C).
A
B
Fig 4.
3:2:1 THE LPG BOILER SHUTS DOWN ON
START-UP
”Red LED comes on immediately”
Cause:
- Resetting time too short.
- The pressure switch does not cut out.
- Fault in electronic ignition unit.
- Faulty wiring.
- Faulty printed circuit board.
Action:
- Reset the electronic ignition unit by switching off the
boiler on the control panel (the red LED goes out) and
wait at least 30 seconds before attempting a restart.
- Check that the pressure switch cuts out. There should be
12 V on the white cable, connection no.1 on the pressure
switch (g. 4 A). If there is no voltage, replace the pres-
sure switch.
- Replace the electronic ignition unit
- Check that the wiring connections are intact and correctly
tted.
- Replace the printed circuit board with a new one.
3:2 THE LPG BOILER DOES NOT START
Initial check:
- Disconnect the ignition cable from the electronics box
and start the boiler. The electronics box should make a
clicking sound for about 10 seconds. If you can hear the
clicking, continue to section ”3:2:3 Ignition spark is gene-
rated but the boiler fails to start”.
3:2:2 NO IGNITION SPARK
Cause:
- Check that the changeover switches on the control panel
are in the correct positions (see the boiler operating
instructions.
- The 12 V fuse has blown.
- The overheating protection device has tripped.
- The red LED on the control panel is lit (shut-down)..
- No or low voltage on the boiler (< 12 V).
- The operating thermostat is broken/damaged.
- The pressure generated by the fan is too low.
- The pressure switch does not come on.
- The printed circuit board is damaged.
- Faulty electronic ignition unit.
- Faulty wiring.
Action:
- Check that the 12 V fuse (see g. 1A) is intact.
- Reset the electronics by switching off the boiler on the
control panel (the red LED light goes out) and wait
approx. 20-30 seconds before attempting to restart. If the
red LED comes on again, please refer to section ”3:2:1
The LPG boiler shuts down on start-up”.
- Check the incoming voltage, is must be no lower than
10.8 V.
- Check that the overheating protection device has not trip-
ped. If necessary, reset by rst unscrewing the black pro-
tective cap, then pressing the reset button (see g. 1 B).
Fig 5:2.
Hose tting on
press-cast burner
housing (shiny,
smooth surface)
Fig 5:1.
Hose tting on
sand-cast burner
housing (dull,
rough surface)
continue page. 8

8
3:2:3 IGNITION SPARK IS GENERATED BUT
THE BOILER DOES NOT START
Cause:
- No or poor gas supply.
- No or faulty spark on the spark electrode.
- The solenoid valves do not open.
- Faulty soft start valve.
- Faulty electronic ignition unit.
- Nozzle blocked.
- Faulty wiring.
- Flue blocked.
Action:
- Check that the gas pressure to the boiler is correct (28-50
mbar).
- Check that the ignition cable is intact and that there are
no short-circuits along the cable
- Check when starting that voltage is being supplied to the
solenoid valves. If not, replace the electronic ignition unit
- Check that a clicking sound can be heard from the sole-
noid valves. Check the valves one at a time by removing
the at-pin contacts. Replace if there is a fault.
- Remove the soft start valve (see the exploded diagram)
and attempt to restart. If the boiler now ignites, the soft
start valve must be changed. (NB! The boiler ignites a
little harder without the soft start valve).
- Remove the burner and check that the spark electrode is
intact and correctly tted (see g. 6). Replace if neces-
sary.
Flame
sensor
2,5-3,5 mm
Spark
electrode
3:3 THE LPG BOILER STARTS BUT GOES OUT
AFTER APPROX. 10 SECONDS
(RED LED COMES ON)
Cause:
- The ame sensor cable is damaged.
- Faulty electronic ignition unit.
- Sensor damaged or incorrectly positioned.
Action:
- Check that the ame sensor cable is intact and correctly
connected.
- The only way to check whether the electronic ignition unit
is working is to change it and then check that the boiler is
operating properly.
- Remove the burner and check that the ame sensor is
intact and correctly tted (see g. 6). Replace the ame
sensor if necessary.
Fig 6.
- Check that there is voltage (12 V) on at-pin terminal
12 (grey cable, low temperature) and terminal 22 (blue
cable, high temperature) see g. 2. If there is no voltage
on terminals 12 and 22, but there is voltage on terminal
11 (red cable), the operating thermostat must be repla-
ced.
- Check that the hoses (g. 5:1 or 5:2) between the fan
housing and pressure switch are intact and correctly
tted.
- Check that the voltage to the fan is at least 9 volts +/-0.2
and that no abnormal noise can be heard. At 9 volts, the
current consumption shall be approx. 0,4-0,6 A. In the
event of a fault, change the fan.
- Check that the pressure switch is making a clicking noise
2-5 seconds after the fan has started, or check that there
is voltage on the at-pin terminal of the blue cable, con-
nection no. 2 (see g. 4 B).
- If the fan does not start, check that there is 12V in both
the red and white cables. If there is 12V only in the red
cable, the pressure switch should be replaced.
- Check that the wiring connections are intact and are cor-
rectly tted.
- Replace the electronic ignition unit. If this has no effect,
replace the printed circuit board.
Spark
electrode
Flame
sensor
- Remove the nozzle and blow the nozzle and gas pipe
clean.
- Check the wiring contact points again.
- Check that the exhaust cowl and the intake/exhaust
hoses are free from objects that may obstruct the air
supply.

9
3:7 UNSTABLE OR VIOLENT IGNITION
Cause:
- The exhaust/intake hoses are too short.
- The exhaust/intake hoses are damaged or loose.
- The exhaust cowl is blocked.
- Incorrect gas pressure.
- Blocked or faulty soft start valve.
- Faulty nozzle.
- Low spark frequency.
- The pressure switch does not shut off or has stuck.
- The solenoid valves are leaky.
Action:
- Check that the intake/exhaust hoses are at least 2 metres
long and that they are undamaged and correctly tted at
the boiler and ue (if a wall ue is tted, 0.7-1.5 m).
3:8 OTHER TECHNICAL INFORMATION
• The electronic ignition unit may emit a slight high fre-
quency sound during operation.
• Boiler models 3000 92x and 3000 93x are intended only
for roof ues.
• Boiler model 3000 94x is intended only for wall ues.
• Boilers with manuf. no. 10921 and higher have circuit
board rev C, which means that the fan does not start if
the pressure switch is ”on”, and there is a new voltage
stabilisation which handles lower voltages (10 V).
• Boilers with manuf. no. 7536 and lower may have a fault
in the fan that causes a whistling sound.
• If there is a resonant noise on boiler model 3000 94x,
insulate the exhaust hose with insulation hose art. no.
1900 233.
• If the fuse (F2) has blown, the boiler should not be repai-
red but should be replaced with a new boiler.
• Insulate the outer pin on the solenoid valve so that it
cannot come into contact with the end plate. If this should
happen, the electronics box short-circuits and must be
replaced.
• In order to simplify operation and maintenance, tting
automatic air bleeders on the installation can be
recommended.
3:4 THE LPG BOILER STARTS AND SWITCHES
OFF AT SHORT INTERVALS
Cause:
- Voltage to boiler too low (< 12 V).
- Poor contact point in the wiring (earth fault).
- Pressure switch damaged or incorrectly connected.
- Ignition unstable.
- Flue blocked.
Action:
- Measure incoming voltage. It must be no lower than
10.8 V.
- Check the wiring connections, particularly the earth con-
nections.
- Check that both hoses between the pressure switch and
the fan housing are connected (see g. 5).
- Replace the pressure switch.
- If the problem persists, please refer to ”Unstable or vio-
lent ignition”.
- Check that the exhaust cowl and the intake/exhaust
hoses are free from objects that may obstruct the air
supply.
3:5 NOISY FAN
Cause:
- The fan motor is damaged (worn).
- Impeller out of balance.
- Impeller touches fan housing.
Action:
- Remove the fan and check whether the impeller has
touched the fan housing (wear marks on the fan hou-
sing). If necessary adjust the fan housing axially.
- Replace the fan.
3:6 NOISY BURNER
Cause:
- Whistling sound from the burner on 92x-93x. Change to
burner 3000 516.
- Check that the ue is free from objects that may obstruct
the air circulation.
- Check that the gas pressure to the boiler is correct
(28-50 mbar).
- Where the ignition is unstable, remove the soft start valve
and test-start the boiler. The start should now be stable,
but with a more violent ignition than normal. Replace with
a new soft start valve or clean the old one and carry out
another test-start.
- Unscrew the nozzle and check that it is marked ”230”.
- Detach the ignition cable from the electronic ignition unit
and start the boiler. A clicking sound should be heard
from the electronic ignition unit, with a frequency of
at least 2 Hz at 12 volts (two clicks per second). If the
frequency is too low the ignition electronics must be
replaced.
- Check that the ignition cable is intact and that there are
no short-circuits along the cable.
- Remove the burner and check that the spark electrode
is correctly tted (see g. 6) and undamaged. Replace/
adjust if necessary.
- Using a leakage tester, for example, check that no gas
is passing through the boiler when it is switched off. If
a leak is discovered, check that all gas connections are
tight. If there is no noticeable external leakage, replace
the solenoid valve.

10
4:0 REPLACING COMPONENTS
Always switch off 12 V DC and 230 V ~ power supply and turn the main gas cock to "off" position before starting
any servicing. The seals (marked in red) must NOT be broken unless special permission has been obtained from
Alde.
A
B
C
Fig 10.
Fig 9.
Fig 7.
B
CD
E
A
F
FC
G
H
4:1 REPLACING THE PRINTED CIRCUIT
BOARD
1. Remove the cover and service panel on the boiler.
2. Detach the blue (N) (g. 7 A) and brown (R) (g. 7 B)
cables at the cable ports on the printed circuit board,
and remove the blue (N) (g. 7 C), brown (R) (g. 7 D)
and red (R) (g. 7 G) cables from the electrical heating
cartridge.
3. Detach the white 15-point connection block (g. 7 E)
from the printed circuit board.
4. Remove the screw behind the connection block (g 7H).
5. Remove the printed circuit board by pressing together
the hooks on the 5 plastic spacers (g. 7 F), and pulling
out the circuit board.
6. Push the new board rmly into the spacers and connect
the cables as shown in g. 7.
7. Ret the service door and cover and test-run the
electrical heating cartridge.
F
Fig 8.
4:2 REPLACING FAN
1. Remove the cover and the service panel from the boiler.
2. Disconnect the positive (red, g. 8 A) and negative
(black, g. 8 B) cables on the fan motor.
3. Unscrew the plastic housing from the motor, 2 screws
(g. 8 C).
(NB! On boilers with wall ues (94x) item 3 shall be
ignored.)
4. Unscrew the 4 plate screws (g. 9 C) securing the fan to
the fan housing.
5. Tilting the fan towards the boiler body, lift it upwards out
of the fan housing (see g. 10).
6. Fit the new fan by following these instructions in reverse.
NB! Take care not to damage the impeller when tting
the fan.
7. Fit the service panel and lid and test-run the boiler.
(NB! In a small number of boilers, the gas pipe is tted
in such a way that the fan cannot be extracted without
rst removing the gas pipe. Do not forget to check that
the seal is tight).
C

11
4:4 REPLACING THE SPARK ELECTRODE
When replacing the spark electrode, also replace the
ame sensor.
1. Detach the burner as per instructions in 4:3.
2. Remove the nut (g. 13 A) and pull the spark electrode
(g. 16 B) straight backwards.
3. Fit the new spark electrode and secure it. Check that the
distance between the tip of the spark electrode and the
mesh cover of the burner is 2.5-3.5 mm, and that the
spark electrode is correctly positioned (see g. 6).
4. Fit the burner in accordance with instructions and test-
start the boiler.
Fig 11.
Fig 12. Fig 13.
A
B
C
D
A
B
C
4:5 REPLACING THE FLAME SENSOR
When replacing the ame sensor, also replace the
spark electrode.
1. Detach the burner in accordance with 4:3.
2. Remove the nut (g. 13 C) and pull the ame sensor
(g. 13 D) straight backwards.
3. Fit the new ame sensor, ensuring that the tip of the
ame sensor is positioned above the burner in accor-
dance with g. 6. Secure the ame sensor.
4. Fit the burner in accordance with instructions and test-
start the boiler.
4:3 REPLACING THE BURNER
Applies to boiler models 3000 927 and later. If the
burner is replaced, burner 3000 516 should be installed.
1. Remove the cover and end plate from the boiler.
2. Detach the spark electrode and sensor cables from the
electronic ignition unit.
3. Using two spanners, unscrew the nut on the gas pipe
(g. 11 A) between the burner and the solenoid valve
(g. 11 B).
4. Remove the end plate with burner by slackening the
screws (g. 11 C) on the burner housing.
5. Pull the end plate with burner straight out of the burner
housing (g. 12).
6. Fit the new burner (insert it straight in) and secure it via
the end plate in the burner housing (g. 11 C).
7. Secure the gas pipe to the solenoid valve (g. 11 B) and
to the burner (g. 11 A). Remember to check that the
cones are correctly tted to the pipes. Using two span-
ners, tighten the nuts on the gas pipe to 7-9 Nm (g 11).
8. Fit the ignition spark and ame sensor cables to the
electronic ignition unit.
NB! Items 9-12 shall be ignored on boilers with manu-
facturing no 3000 9xx B and on boilers where burner
3000 516 is installed.
9. Adjust the pressure switch screw 1/2 turn clockwise
10.Remove the as in item 4.2 and the under the inlet plate
under impeller by removing the two screws.
11.Install the new inlet plate, and then put back the old one,
two screws.
12.Remount the fan in reverse order.
NB! Take care that the impeller does not get damaged
during tting. Check that the fan does not make an
unpleasant noise.
13.With the boiler operating, check the system and con-
nections for any leaks using a leak detector spray. Once
this is done, t the end plate and cover.

12
Fig 16.
4:6 REPLACING THE SOLENOID VALVE
For boilers with serial no. from 04445 and upwards.
1. Remove the cover and end plate on the boiler.
2. Unfasten the cables (black, brown and yellow/green) on
the solenoid valve (g. 14 A-C).
3. Using two spanners, slacken the nuts on the incoming
gas pipe (g. 15 A) and the gas pipe to the burner
(g. 15 B), and remove the rubber cap from the soft
start valve (g. 14 D).
4. Extract the solenoid valve (g. 16) and t the new one
by following the instructions in reverse order.
5. Using two spanners, tighten the nut on the incoming gas
pipe to 25-30 Nm, and the gas pipe to the burner to 7-9
Nm. With the boiler operating, check the system and
connections for any leaks using a leak detector spray.
6. Fit the end plate and cover.
For boilers where the solenoid valve is tted to the
burner housing (up to serial no. 04444).
1. Remove the cover and end-plate on the boiler.
2. Unfasten the cables (black, brown and yellow/green) on
the solenoid valve (g. 14 A-C).
C
A
B
B
D
Fig 15.
Fig 14.
3. Using two spanners, slacken the nuts on the incoming
gas pipe (g. 15 A) and the gas pipe to the burner (g.
15 B), and remove the rubber cap from the soft start
valve (g. 14 D).
4. Detach the pressure switch hoses to and remove the
insulation next to the burner housing.
5. Unscrew the two plate screws which fasten the gas
valve angle bracket to the burner housing.
6. Extract the solenoid valve and transfer the angle bracket
to the new solenoid valve (attached underneath with a
screw).
7. Fit the new solenoid valve by following the instructions in
reverse order.
8. Using two spanners, tighten the nut on the incoming
gas pipe to 25-30 Nm, and the gas pipe to the burner to
7-9 Nm. Remember to check that the bevels are cor-
rectly tted to the pipes. With the boiler operating, check
the system and connections for any leaks using a leak
detector spray.
9. Fit the end plate and cover.
A
A
B

13
4:7:1 REPLACING THE 1 KW HEATING
CARTRIDGE
1. Switch off 230 V power supply
2. Drain the glycol mixture from the heating system.
3. Remove the cover and end plate.
4. Remove the fan in accordance with 4.2
5. Remove the cables from the heating cartridge.
6. Slacken the nut in the centre of the electrical heating
cartridge electrode (g. 17).
7. Give the t-screw on the heating cartridge a one-quarter
turn (g. 18).
8. Extract the heating cartridge by pulling straight back-
wards (g. 19).
9. Clean around the edges where the old heating cartridge
has been located.
10.Then t the new heating cartridge, give the t-screw a
one-quarter turn and tighten the nut.
NB! Before tting the heating cartridge, check the direc-
tion in which to turn the t-screw.
Fig 17.
Fig 18.
Fig 19.
NB! Check that the rubber plug is fully inserted and
push the lower edge of the heating cartridge while tigh-
tening the nut. Tighten the nut to 4 Nm.
11. Connect the cables according to g. 20, (A=brown,
B=blue, C=yellow/green). Fit the cover and end plate.
Add glycol mixture.
Bleed and test-run the boiler.
A
B
C
Fig 20.

14
Fig 21.
4:7:2 REPLACING THE 2 KW HEATING
CARTRIDGE
1. Switch off 230 V power supply
2. Drain the glycol mixture from the heating system.
3. Remove the cover and end plate.
4. Remove the burner together with the solenoid valve (g.
21). Do not slacken the gas pipe, this is in order to avoid
having to check sealing.
5. Remove the cables from the heating cartridge.
6. Slacken the two plate screws and remove the sup-
porting angle bracket from the heating cartridge (does
not apply to boilers with serial numbers of 4445 or
higher).
7. Slacken the nut in the centre of the electrical heating
cartridge electrode and unscrew it approximately 10 mm
(g. 22)
8. Tap the nut lightly to release the rubber plug and extract
the heating cartridge by pulling straight backward. If
there is a T screw on the heating cartridge (the screw
has a groove), the nut must be unscrewed sufciently
for the T screw to be turned a quarter turn before the
heating cartridge can be pulled out.
NB! Leave the nut on the screw, with several turns
of thread in it.
9. Clean round the edges where the old heating cartridge
was. Then t the new heating cartridge. Before tting
it, check the direction of the T screw, push the heating
cartridge in and turn the T screw a quarter turn. Then
pull the nut so that the T screw comes into the correct
position (the screw should be at the same height as the
cable connections). Tighten to 4 Nm. Check that the T
screw projects 15-18 mm from the nut (otherwise there
is a risk that the T screw is not in the right position).
10.Any angle bracket should not be tted. Fit the solenoid
valve in accordance with the instructions. Connect the
cables as shown in g. 23 (A=brown, B=blue, C=yellow/
green, D=red). Fit the cover and end plate. Add glycol
mixture. Bleed and test-run the boiler.
Fig 22.
A
B
C
BD
Fig 23.

15
4:8 REPLACING THE OPERATING
THERMOSTAT
1. Remove the cover on the boiler.
2. Remove the locking clip (g. 24 A). Remove the split pin
(g. 24 B) on the immersion pipe. Remove the overhea-
ting protection device sensor rst (g. 25), and then the
operating thermostat sensor (g. 26 A).
3. Unscrew the two screws which secure the operating
thermostat (g. 27 A) to the fastening plate, and remove
the cables from the at-pin connections.
4. Transfer the contact spring (g. 26 B) to the new opera-
ting thermostat. The spring must be tted with the rear
end of the bulb uppermost, so that it pushes the sensor
downwards into the immersion pipe.
5. First insert the operating thermostat sensor all the way
to the very end of the immersion pipe. Then insert the
overheating protection device sensor as far as possible.
Fit the split pin on the immersion pipe.
6. Attach the operating thermostat to the service panel
(NB! Use the original screws only) and connect the
cables in accordance with g. 2 (blue, grey and two
red).
7. Fit the cover and test-run the boiler.
Fig 25. Fig 27.
AB
Fig 24. Fig 26.
4:9 REPLACING THE OVERHEATING
PROTECTION DEVICE
1. Remove the cover on the boiler.
2. Remove the locking clip (g. 24 A). Remove the split pin
(g. 24 B) on the immersion pipe and take out the
sensor (g. 25).
3. Remove the black plastic cap and unscrew the nut
(g. 27 B) which holds the overheating protection device
to the service panel. Release the cables (g. 2 A) from
the at-pin contacts and change the overheating prote
tion device.
4. Fit the new overheating protection device by following
the instructions in reverse order. Test-run the boiler.
A
B
A
B

16
5:0 SAFETY CHECK
The safety check must be carried out after every service.
Check:
• That the intake/exhaust hoses and ue are tight and
undamaged.
• That the LPG pipes are tight. Pressure test the system.
• That the 230 V~ earth cable is connected.
• That the safety valve on the water heater is not blocked.
• That the heating system is lled with glycol mixture
up to the mark on the expansion vessel.
Fig 28.
A
White
Red
Blue
4:10 REPLACING THE PRESSURE SWITCH
1. Remove the cover and end-plate from the boiler.
2. Detach the blue, white and red cables on the pressure
switch.
3. Push back the metal securing plate and pull out the
pressure switch (g. 28 A).
4. Detach the rubber hoses (g. 28 B) from the pressure
switch (do not pull the hoses, unscrew them).
5. Ret the hoses to the new pressure switch before
pushing it into place.
6. Fasten the pressure switch and t the cables to the at-
pin contacts in accordance with g. 28.
7. Fit the cover and end plate to the boiler. Test-start the
boiler.
B

17
6:0 WIRING DIAGRAM WITH CONTROL PANEL 3000 266

18
6:1 WIRING DIAGRAM WITH CONTROL PANEL 3000 380

19
6:2 WIRING DIAGRAM WITH CONTROL PANEL 3000 465
6:3 WIRING DIAGRAM WITH CONTROL PANEL 3000 465 (WITH AUXILIARY FUNCTIONS)

20
6:4 WIRING DIAGRAM WITH CONTROL PANEL 3000 565 (WITH AUXILIARY FUNCTIONS)