Apogee 00524 User manual

Page 1
Colorado Springs, Colorado USA
web site: www.ApogeeRockets.com
The Fin Shape Science Experiment Kit is another ne product
from:
Kit #00524
Fin Shape Science
Experiment Kit
Test Different Fin Shapes to Find Out
Which One Performs the Best!
P/N Description Qty
10079 AT-18/5.4” (Fin Shape Sci Eng. Mount Tube) 1
10118 AT-33/3” (Payload Tube) 1
10119 AT-33/4” (Fin Can Body Tube) 6
10120 AT-33/9” (Main Body Tube) 1
13016 Coupler AC-33 (red) 2
13029 CR 13/18 (blue) Centering Ring 1
13051 1/8” Launch Lug 1” Long 2
14101 Balsa Sheet 3” X 9” X 1/8” 2
15596 Elliptical Fin Sheet (Balsa) 1
15597 Trapezoid Fin Sheet (Balsa) 1
15598 Rectangular Fin Sheet (Balsa) 1
15599 Shark Fin Sheet (Balsa) 1
15602 Plywood Ring Set (Fin Shape Science) 1
19468 PNC-33mm (BT-55) 1
24043 Crimped Engine Hook 1
29124 Apogee 12” Plastic Parachute Pack 1
29519 100# Kevlar X 6 ft 1
29600 Clay mass - 5 grams 1
29610 Small Screw Eye 1
31133 Instruction Sheet A 1
31134 Instruction Sheet B 1
31135 Fin Shape Science Data Collection Sheet 1
35575 13/18mm Display Stand (Cardstock) 1
35538 33mm 3-Fin Alignment Guide (Cardstock) 1
41047 Decal Sheet (Fin Shape Science) 1
47133 Clear Plastic Bag 10x6x24 1
Other Tools and Materials Needed
Pencil
Ruler with a straight edge
Hobby knife
Wood glue
Rubber cement, spray adhesive, or glue stick
Masking tape
Paper towels
Paint supplies (spray paint, brushes, etc.)
Wood sealer
Sandpaper (220 and 400 grit) and sanding block
Q-Tip or wood dowel for spreading glue inside tubes
p/n 31133
A fun science project is to test various n shapes
on a rocket to nd out which one is best. The key to
any good experiment is to limit the variables so that
just one item affects the outcome. In this kit, we’ve
designed the rocket so that the rocket stays the same
and only the n shape changes. We further isolated the
shape of the n by making sure that the surface area
is identical from one shape to the next, and that the n
span (how far it sticks out into the air) is also the same.
In this kit, there are four pre-cut n shapes you can
test, and another eleven patterns that you can choose
from to make your own hand-cut ns.
To change out the ns, you simply slide the n unit
off the rocket and slide on a new one. The shapes can
be swapped out in just a few seconds!
Skill Level 2: Previous Rocket Experience Sug-
gested
©2017, Apogee Components, Inc.

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Fin Shape Science Rocket Assembly
1. Remove the parts for the n alignment
xture from the cardboard sheet. Dry as-
semble the parts as shown. Make sure the
tabs on the cross pieces protrude through
the side plates. Apply a bead of wood glue
over the tabs on both sides of the tool. Set
the piece aside to allow the glue to dry.
2. Fine sand the balsa wood laser-cut
sheets using 200 and then 400 grit sand-
paper before removing the ns. Carefully
remove all the pieces from the sheet by free-
ing the edges with a sharp hobby knife.
It is probably wise to leave the edges
square and don’t round them with sandpa-
per. That way, all the edges of the ns are
identical, even though the rocket won’t y
as high. Remember, you’re testing the n
shape, not the edges.
There are four pre-cut shapes you can
test in this kit. The pattern sheet (page 8)
has 11 other shapes you can try if you want
to cut out some additional shapes yourself.
3. Test your own ns: It is recommended
you make three photocopies of the n pat-
tern sheet. With scissors, cut out the pat-
terns you wish to test.
Arrange the patterns on the balsa sheet,
assuring that the n grain direction on the
pattern matches the direction of the wood
grain on the balsa wood. This will give the
strongest ns that won’t easily snap dur-
ing launch. Tip: You may have to ip one of
the patterns over to get three ns to t on a
single sheet of balsa.
4. Once you have the orientation of the
pattern to the wood grain correct, afx the
patterns to the balsa sheet with rubber ce-
ment, spray adhesive, or a glue stick. Don’t
use liquid glue, or it will be hard to remove
the paper after it has dried.
Cut out the pattern using a ruler and a
sharp hobby knife as shown.
5. Sealing the surface of the balsa
with sanding sealer makes the surface of
the wood consistent. It also improves the
rocket’s appearance. Apply the sealer with
a paintbrush. When dry, sand it with 400 grit
sandpaper. Repeat the procedure until the
balsa grain is lled and the ns look and feel
smooth.
6. Test t each of the ns into the slots on
the n alignment xture. If they are too tight,
you will need to sand down the thickness
slightly.
2
3
4
5
1
Glue
(both sides)
Tube Edge
Tube Edge
Tube Edge
Tube Edge
Tube Edge
Tube Edge
Align wood grain
with the pattern
6

Page 3
7. Sand off the little nubs of paper on the
ends of the tubes using medium grit sandpa-
per and a sanding block.
8. Slide the n alignment xture onto
one of the 4 inch (101mm) long body tubes.
Test one set of ns into the xture. Position
the bottom edge of the ns on one edge of
the tube. When you know how the ns are
attached, you can remove them from the n
alignment xture and apply wood glue to the
root edge and then return them back into the
n alignment xture. Allow the glue time to
dry before removing the n xture. Repeat
this for all the n shapes you plan on ight
testing. These sections are now called the
“n-cans.”
9. Add wood glue llets to the ns where
they touch the body tube. Even out the glue
with your nger. Lay the n-cans horizontally
to let the glue dry.
10. Locate the engine mount tube. The
aft end is the side closest to the etched lines
as shown. READ THE FOLLOWING PARA-
GRAPH FULLY! IT IS VERY CRITICAL.
Place a small amount of wood glue on the
tip of a Q-tip or a wood dowel. Smear the
glue around the inside perimeter of the tube,
at the cut-out made in the tube. Using a
rocket motor, push the blue ring into the tube
so that the front end of the ring is even with
the front of the cutout. IMPORTANT: Once
the ring is in place, there should be a slight
slot at the base of the blue ring and the cut-
out. This is for the engine hook.
11. Tie one end of the yellow shock cord
around the front end of the engine mount
tube. Locate the plywood ring with the small
notch. Slide the ring over the front end of the
tube, threading the shock cord through the
notch in the ring. Glue the ring to the front
end of the engine tube. Put a llet of glue
around the perimeter to hold the ring and the
cord in place. Allow the glue to dry.
12. Locate the two red tube couplers.
Mark the approximate middle of the tube
with a pencil as shown.
p/n 31134
7
8
9
10
11
12
Small gap between
blue ring and cutout.
Aft end
Ring with small notch

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12. Locate the plywood centering ring
without any notches on it. Using wood glue,
attach it to the inside of one end of a red
coupler.
13. Apply wood glue to the threads of
the metal screw eye, and screw it into the
plywood bulkhead. Do not twist it in past the
threads on the shank. Apply glue to both
sides of the bulkhead where it exits the hole.
14. Glue the bulkhead into the remaining
red tube coupler using wood glue. Recess
it slightly into the end of the tube. When the
glue has dried, put a llet of glue on both
sides of the bulkhead where it touches the
inside of the tube.
15. Take the engine mount tube from
step 11. Put a bead of wood glue around
the outer perimeter of the plywood ring and
a ring of glue just forward of the cut-out as
shown. Slide the red coupler from step 12
over the rear end of the engine mount tube
so the coupler is even with the front end of
the plywood centering ring. Wipe off any
excess glue that oozes out onto the surface
of the coupler, and allow the glue to dry.
16. Take the metal engine hook and put
the tab on the front into the slot at the rear
end of the cutout on the engine mount tube
as shown. Locate the plywood centering ring
with the wide notch on the inner circle. Slide
the notch over the engine hook and glue the
ring between the etched lines on the engine
mount tube. Put a llet of glue on both sides
of the ring where it touches the tube.
17. Glue the two launch lugs onto the 9
inch long tube inside the rectangles that are
etched into the surface of the tube. Make
sure the lugs are aligned straight so they will
slide easily on the launch rod. Apply a llet
of glue to both sides of the lugs and allow
them to dry.
12
16
15
14
13
17
Notch for
engine hook
Slot
Etched
lines

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18. Glue the coupler with the screw eye
into the 3 inch payload tube (the one with
the small holes in the middle. It is positioned
so it sticks out half way as shown.
.
19. Pass the yellow shock cord out the
rear of the engine mount tube so it stays
out of the way. Glue the red tube coupler at-
tached to the front end of the engine mount
into one end of the tube with the launch
lugs. The edge of the tube should be even
with the half-length line you drew in pencil
on the coupler. Wipe off any excess glue
that gets on the surface of the red coupler.
When the glue is dry, pass the yellow shock
cord back through the tube so it comes out
the front end.
20. Tie the free end of the yellow shock
cord to the eyelet on the base of the payload
tube as shown. Put a dab of glue on the knot
to prevent it from coming untied. Temporarily
place the nose cone on the front end of the
payload tube.
21. Place one reinforcement ring on each
of the corners of the parachute canopy.
Take a sharp pencil or knife and poke a hole
through the plastic in the center of each ring.
22. Cut the shroud lines to make a total
of three lines of equal length. Then pull each
parachute line end through a parachute re-
inforcement ring and tie using two overhand
knots. Repeat for all the corners as shown.
23. Holding the parachute at the center
of its top, pull the lines together to even
up the ends. Thread the three looped lines
through the eye on the base of the payload
tube. Next, take the top of the parachute
and pull it through all three string loops at
the same time. Finally, pull on the strings to
tighten the knot. This securely attaches the
parachute to the rocket.
20
21
22
23
19
18
Pull tight
Canopy through line loops
Thread lines
through eyelet

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24. Fold the parachute and insert it into
the rocket along with the shock cord. Tem-
porarily place one of the assembled n-cans
over the engine mount and exposed end of
the tube coupler. DO NOT GLUE!
25. Roll a piece of paper and insert it
into the back of the rocket to hold the model
while you paint it. Similarly, roll a sheet of
paper and insert it into the back of each n
can so you hold them while you paint them.
For best results, paint the model with primer
before using the nal paint colors. Follow the
directions on the paint can, and always paint
outdoors with the wind against your back.
Let the paint harden at least 24 hours before
proceeding. You may paint the model your
favorite color.
Allow the paint time to dry and install the
sticker decals as desired.
26. Remove the display stand parts from
the laser-cut sheet. Glue them together
using wood glue as shown. Allow the glue
time to dry. You can place your rocket on the
display stand for everyone to gaze at when
you are not launching it.
Congratulations! Your Fin Shape Science
Experiment rocket is now complete.
Launch Supplies Needed
To launch your rocket you will need the
following supplies:
• A model rocket launching system
• Flame resistant recovery wadding
• Altimeter to measure the height of the
rocket
• Data sheet to record the results of your
project.
• Recommended Rocket Engines: B6-4,
or C6-5
Rocket Preight
A. Tie a string from the altimeter (NOT
INCLUDED) to the loop on the nose cone.
This is recommended in case the nose
comes off during ight. Remember to turn
on the altimeter and make sure it is ready to
launch.
B. Wrap a single layer of tape each
around the perimeter of the rocket over both
the nose cone joint, and the n can joint.
This is what holds them on during ight, and
allows the n cans can be swapped between
launches.
A
B
24
25
26
Tape
Joint
Joint
Tape
NO Glue

Page 7
C. Crumple and insert three sheets of
recovery wadding into the body tube.
D. Fold the parachute and insert it into
the tube with the shock cord. Then insert the
nose and payload section onto the tube.
E. Insert the rocket motor into the aft end
of the rocket by bending the clip back slightly
and sliding it in.
F. Insert and secure the engine igniter as
directed on the package the engines came
with.
Countdown and Launch Procedure
Fly your rocket on a large eld that isn’t
near any power lines, trees, or low ying
aircraft. The larger the eld, the greater
your chances of recovering your rocket. The
launch area around the pad must be free of
dry weeds and brown grass. Launch only
during calm weather with very little or no
wind and good visibility.
10. Remove the safety key from the
launch controller.
9. Slide the launch lugs over the launch
rod to place the rocket on the pad. The
rocket should slide freely over the rod.
8. Attach the micro-clips to the igniter.
The clips must not touch each other or the
metal blast deector.
7. Stand back from your rocket as far as
the launch wire allows (at least 5 meters - 15
feet).
6. Insert the safety key to arm the launch
system. The light (or buzzer) on the control-
ler should come on.
Give a loud countdown 5 ... 4 ... 3 ... 2 ...
1 ... LAUNCH!
Push and hold the the button until the
engine ignites. Then remove the safety key
and place the safety cap on the launch rod.
Misre Procedure
Occasionally the igniter will burn, but the
motor will fail to ignite. If this happens, the
F
C
1 2 3
4 5
Fold
Peak
Down
Spike
Canopy Lay Excess String
on Top of Canopy
Roll Sides Inward
Loosely Wrap Any
Excess String around
Canopy And Insert
D
E
Clip over end
of motor
cause is that the pyrogen on the igniter was not in contact with the engines
propellant. When an ignition failure occurs, remove the safety key from the
launch controller and wait 60 seconds before approaching the rocket. Re-
move the old igniter from the engine and install a new one. Make sure that
the igniter is insert fully into the engine and touches the propellant. Secure
the igniter as directed on the engine package and repeat the countdown
and launch procedure.
Always follow the NAR* Model Rocket Safety Code when launching
model rockets.
*National Association of Rocketry
**Kevlar® is a brand name of E.I. DuPont for their selection of aramid bers. Only DuPont makes Kevlar®

Page 8
Tube Edge
Fin Area = 4.09 sq. inches
Span = 2.5 inches
1.0 inch
Tube Edge
Forward Edge
Tube Edge
Tube Edge
Forward Edge
Tube Edge
Tube Edge Tube Edge
Tube Edge Tube Edge
Forward Edge
Tube Edge
Tube Edge
All the fin patterns on this sheet have the same surface area and the same span
(measured from the tip to the tube). If you want to make your own fin shapes, be sure to
follow that criteria in order to minimize the variables in the flight tests.
Before cutting the balsa, be sure to orient the fin pattern so that the wood grain
aligns. This will make the strongest fin that is hard to snap off.
Other Fin Shapes You Can Test!
© 2017, Apogee Components, Inc.
Extra Fin Shapes Page (please nd this page in the actual kit).

Page 9
Flight
Number Fin Shape Empty Wt of rocket Altitude Max SpeedEngine Used
Date:
Time:
Weather Conditions:
Fin Shape Science
Data Sheet
p/n 31135

Page 10
Suggestions for Your Fin Shape Science Experiment
How to Eliminate all the Variables That Could Affect Performance
The critical part of any science experiment is to eliminate
all that variables that could affect the results except the
one that you are testing. In this project we’ve tried our best
to eliminate most of the variables that could affect how the
rocket ies, but here are some other suggestions:
Variable: Fin Area
When we created the n patterns, we used a computer
program to determine the exact surface area of the n. We
adjusted the shape to ensure that all the shapes on the
sheets have the same area. If you decide to make your
own, you might have to use a CAD software to nd out the
suface area of your custom shapes too. Make sure your
customized ns have a surface area of 4.09 square inches.
Variable: Fin Span
Another variable that people overlook is how far the n
sticks out from the rocket. This is called the “n span.” The
n span is critical, because it greatly affects the drag on the
rocket. Again, if you decide to create your own custom n
shapes, make sure that the n span distance is 2.5 inches
like the rest of the suggested shapes in this kit.
Variable: Rocket Lift-off Mass
One variable that we have not eliminated in the kit is the
mass of the rocket. As you can guess, the rocket that is
heavier is not going to y as high as a lighter weight one.
Even though the ns have the same area and theoretically
they should have identical weight, the material they are
made from has an effect on the nal weight. The reason
why is that balsa wood is a natural material and one tree
may be denser than another.
In addition, how you attach the ns to the n can tubes
can also affect the weight of the rocket. The amount of glue
you put on when attaching the ns will vary slightly from one
n to another.
Because of the varying mass of n cans, we’ve included
in the kit a small amount of clay weight. Use the weight to
adjust the mass of the rocket prior to installing the rocket
motor.
Here’s a hint: weigh all the n cans separately. Find the
heaviest one, and put that one on the core tube with the
engine mount. Weigh it again and record the mass.
When you y the other n shapes, add a small amount
of clay weight into the payload tube so that the entire rocket
weighs the same as the heaviest n shape. Between ights,
always weigh the rocket and add or remove clay mass so
that the lift-off weight is the same. This will eliminate the
variable of weight and make sure that you’re only testing the
shape of the n.
Also remember to use the same amount of tape to hold
on the nose cone and the n can. It is recommended you
measure the length of tape, and use the same length every
time so any extra length of tape won’t change the mass of
the rocket. We suggest 4.25 inches long.
Variable: Launch Angle
Eliminate this variable by always launching the rocket
with the launch rod pointed straight up. Don’t angle it into
the wind.
Variable: Weather Conditions
This is a hard variable to eliminate. The only way to do
that would be to launch all the n shapes at the exact same
time so that they are all affected by the same weather (wind,
temperature, humidity). This is a great idea, but it is a bit
impractical because it involves a lot of rockets ying at the
same time and much more sophisticated launch equipment.
The next best thing to do is y all the rockets on the
same day. Hopefully that will reduce some of the variables
like temperature and humidity since they probably won’t
vary much between one launch and the next.
The wind will vary between ights. You never know when
a gust of wind will come through the launch area and affect
the trajectory of the ight. Ideally, you want to y on a day
with zero wind. If you have a choice, try to schedule your
launches on a calm day.
If there is any breeze, what you should do is y the
shapes multiple times and average out the results. So if one
shape ew to 200 feet on the rst launch and 220 feet on
the next launch, the average altitude for that shape is 210
feet.
But don’t y the same shape in succession. After each
ight change to a different n shape. Why? Because that
will allow you to test other shapes when the temperature
and humidity are fairly consistent. If you y one shape four
times in succession, it could be a long time before you get
to the next shape. In the mean time, the temperature could
have changed signicantly.
Variable: Rocket Motor Performance
Unfortunately, this one is out of your control. Motors can
vary a little bit in how much thrust they produce. In order to
eliminate this variable, you’ll need to y your rockets many
times and average out the results. Don’t just do one ight
per n shape. The affect of the motor would be too signi-
cant. The more times you y the rocket, the better.
I hope this helps you with your project to nd the best n
shape. Please let us know how your experiment turned out.
www.ApogeeRockets.com