ARTME 3D MK1 User manual

Assembly instructions
06-Filament guide
Original Desktop Filament Extruder MK1 by ARTME 3D
Version 19.06.2022

The assembly instructions of ARTME 3D's original desktop filament extruder MK1
is an open source project used under a CC BY-SA license:
You may:
- Use, modify and redistribute any content.
Under the following condition:
- Attribution: David Pfeifer of ARTME 3D
- Link my project: www.artme-3d.de
- Indicate what has been changed
- Publish under the same license
For more details about the license see https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/
Additional tools required for this assembly section:
Phillips screwdriver PH1
if necessary drill with 3,5mm drill bit
Packages overview
Package 0: Delivered carton
Package 1: Screws (SC)
Package 2: Spare Parts (SP)
Package 3: Custom Metal Parts (CM)
Package 4: Extruder Barrel (EB)
Package 5: Electronics (EL)
Package 6: Tools (TO)

Step 1:
3D printing:
2x rails FG07 (on the picture you can see an old representation of 4 short rails)
1x slide part 1 FG08
1x slide part 2 FG09
1x spiral axis for 1,75mm part 1 FG10.1
1x spiral axis for 1,75mm part 2 FG10.2
1x Axis holder right FG11
1x snap part 1 FG12
1x snap part 2 FG13
1x Plow FG14
1x Axle holder left FG15
2x Stopper FG16

Step 2:
Remove from package 1:
9x wood screw 2.5x12 (SC01)
7x cheese head screw M4x10 (SC05)
1x hammer nut (SC16)
1x slot nut M4 (SC17)
Remove from package 2:
8x ball bearing 4x13x5 (SP09)
1x pressure spring 6mm (SP17)

Step 3:
Remove tool from package 0: Aluminum profile 160mm (FR05)
Step 4:
Insert the four FG07 rails into the groove of the aluminum profile. Two pieces opposite each
other. (on the picture you can see an old representation of 4 short rails)

Step 5:
Tool from package 6: Allen wrench 3mm (TO07).
Fasten four ball bearings 4x13x5 with a cheese head screw M4x10 each to the carriage part 1.
If the holes turn out to be too small, you can drill them out with a 3.5mm drill bit. If the holes are
too large, you can additionally secure the screws with a little superglue.
Step 6:
Tool: Phillips screwdriver PH1
Fasten the carriage part 2 to the carriage part 1 using the wood screws 2.5x12. Holes are
provided in slide part 1 for this purpose. Make sure that the alignment is correct.

Step 7:
Now push the carriage onto the aluminum profile. The ball bearings must run in the guide rails.
The carriage should be able to be pushed with slight resistance without hooking. If this is the
case, the guide rail can be reworked again with the key file. When the carriage runs easily, it is
removed again.
Step 8:
Tools: Phillips screwdriver PH1, warding file square.
Place the two parts of the spiral axle on top of each other and insert two ball bearings 4x13x5
into the designated places at the ends of the axle. Pay attention to the alignment. The lateral
holes for the screws must fit on each other. The two parts of the spiral axle are screwed
together with three wood screws 2.5x12. Finish the spiral with the key file so that the edges at
the junctions of the two parts are removed and all surfaces are relatively smooth. Be careful not
to remove too much material in the process. See also pictures on the next page.

Step 9:
Insert a ball bearing 4x13x5 into the axle holder right (FG11) and screw it tight with a wood
screw 2.5x12. To do this, place the ball bearing in the opening provided for it, on the elevation
provided for it.

Step 10:
Turn the entire extruder so that you are looking at it from behind.
Step 11:
Tool: Phillips screwdriver PH1
A ball bearing 4x13x5 is screwed onto the snap part 1 (FG12) with a wood screw 2,5x12.
screwed. The ball bearing must be centered on the elevation provided for this purpose.

Step 12:
Tool: Phillips screwdriver PH1
Screw a wood screw 2.5x12 into the snap part 2 (FG13). Turn the screw in only so far that it
does not yet come out on the opposite side. Align the two parts so that the side holes face each
other. Then you can place the 6mm pressure spring (SP17) between them and insert the ends
of the spring into the holes.
Step 13:
Tool: Phillips screwdriver PH1
The now assembled latch mechanism is inserted into the groove of the aluminum profile. See
picture. If the parts do not slide freely, the print parts must be reworked by filing or grinding.
Tension the spring by pushing the detent part 2 further into the groove. The correct spring
tension is achieved when there is approx. 61mm distance to the outer edge of the groove. Then
tighten the wood screw so that nothing can move. See also pictures on the next page.

Step 14:
Slide the prepared right-hand axis holder (FG11) into the groove from the left. The T-shaped
part provided for this purpose on the axis holder must fit into the groove. Alignment see picture.
The supplied aluminum profiles may be from different manufacturers who have different
tolerances in production. Therefore, it may be that the axis holder slides on quite easily or quite
heavily. As a result, you may have to push the holder on with some force or hold it in place if it is
quite loose. The spring of the latching mechanism will be compressed a little bit. See also
picture on the next page.

Step 15:
Tool from package 6: Allen wrench 3mm (TO07).
The aluminum profile can now be mounted on the main frame. The latching mechanism and the
axis holder point downwards. The prepared connector on the right side (seen from behind) is
inserted into the upper groove of the aluminum profile and the clamping screw is tightened.

Step 16:
Tool from package 6: Allen wrench 3mm (TO07).
Now the correct height can be set. To do this, loosen the clamping screw of the connector on
the main frame once again in order to be able to move the 160mm aluminum profile in height. If
the swing arm on the spool drive is in the way, it can be moved by turning the spool holder disc.
The distance between the lower 400mm long aluminum profile and the upper 160mm long
aluminum profile must be 404mm. Then tighten the clamping screw on the connector again and
measure again. Repeat if necessary until the distance is correct.

Step 17:
Pull back the ball bearing of the detent mechanism and insert the crossbrace into the recess
provided on the axis holder. Then release the ball bearing again. See pictures.

Step 18:
Now check whether the swing arm can be pushed back and forth. The spring tension should
allow the swingarm to move with some resistance and engage in the end position. If something
hooks or is stiff, the pressure parts may need to be reworked.
Step 19:
Then turn the entire extruder again so that you are looking at it from the front. Then push the
carriage back onto the rails (FG07). Alignment see picture.

Step 20:
Tool: warding file square
Rework the plow (FG14) with the warding file so that all surfaces are smooth. Be careful not to
remove too much material. Then insert the plow into the hole provided for it in the carriage.

Step 21:
Tool from package 6: Allen wrench 3mm (To07).
A socket head screw M4x10 is inserted into the hole provided for this purpose in the axle holder
left (FG15) and a hammer nut is screwed onto the thread.
Step 22:
The spiral axle is now inserted in the next steps. To do this, align the axle so that the end with
the teeth faces the swing arm. Then put the ball bearing at the end of the axle onto the axle
holder on the right. Hold the other end of the axle by hand.

Step 23:
Then insert the plow into the spiral. To do this, push the carriage to a position where the plow
can engage the spiral. Hold the other end of the spiral axle by hand.
Step 24:
Tool from package 6: Allen key 3mm
Now put the axle holder on the left side of the axle and insert the hammer nut into the groove of
the aluminum profile. Tighten the cap screw. Make sure that the front edge of the axle holder is
flush with the aluminum profile. See picture. It should not be possible to move the axis to the
right and left, only to rotate it.

Step 25:
Now turn the spiral axis in one direction first.When you start the rotation, the swingarm may
change its position, shifting forward or backward. At this moment, a little more force is required.
This is normal. Then turn the spiral axis in the other direction. It should be possible to turn the
spiral axis with slight resistance and the carriage should move back and forth. The resistance
comes from the fact that the plow on the slide touches the spiral axis over the entire length. This
is intentional. If there is too little resistance because the parts may be too far apart, this can
have a negative effect on the function of the filament guide later. If the turning becomes hooked
or sluggish in some places, repeat the reworking of the print parts or realign the axis holders to
change the distance between the plow and the spiral axis. Then check again until the carriage
can move back and forth over the entire length with slight resistance by turning the spiral axis.
Step 26:
Tool from package 6: Allen wrench 3mm
Insert a socket head screw M4x10 into each of the two stoppers FG16 through the hole
provided. Alignment see picture.

Step 27:
Tool from package 6: Allen key 3mm
Slide two sliding blocks (SC17) into the upper groove of the aluminum profile. Slide one of the
two sliding blocks under the carriage. Then screw one stopper each to the sliding block using
the M4x10 cylinder screws. The stoppers serve as a stop for the carriage and achieve a change
of direction of the carriage. This is necessary to adapt the winding distance of the filament guide
to the spool size used.