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  9. Ashford KIWI 2 SPINNING WHEEL User manual

Ashford KIWI 2 SPINNING WHEEL User manual

KIWI 2 SPINNING WHEEL
KSWII08052012V2
INSTRUCTIONS
Ashford Handicrafts Ltd.
Factory and Showroom: 415 West Street,
PO Box 474, Ashburton, New Zealand
Telephone 64 3 308 9087
Facsimile 64 3 308 8664
Email: [email protected].nz
Internet: www.ashford.co.nz
Ashford Guarantee
Thank you for purchasing this Ashford product. In the
unlikely event there is any fault in manufacture we will
replace the item. To validate our guarantee please visit
our website or write to us.
Please also join our Ashford Club for the Wheel Magazine,
competitions and more at www.ashfordclub.co.nz
REAL SCALE HARDWARE
The Ashford Kiwi 2 Spinning Wheel assembly instructions
Tools required
Before commencing, please read the instructions completely, identify the parts and note the assembly
sequence.
We recommend that the wood surfaces be waxed or sealed before assembly. This protects the kiln dried
wood from climatic changes and prevents it getting dirty or stained. The Silver Beech tree is a native of
New Zealand and has a lovely variety of colour and grain. For a silky smooth matt finish, use the Ashford
Wax Finish to enhance the natural colours and character of this timber.
The wheel is made from MDF, a high density durable wood product that can be wax finished, painted or
decorated. Ashford Spinning Wheels are also available factory finished in clear lacquer.
Meaning of Symbols
If the hook is hard to turn use the allen key.When you use the allen key, make sure
it is at 90 degrees and is at the bottom
of the hole
Check the directions carefully.Check hardware against
full size illustration.
Right Wrong
To make assembly easier use candle
wax on the screws and hooks.
Thread 2 hooks into the flyer base.
Slide the 2 rubber O-rings onto the flyer arms
Squeeze and slide the yarn guides onto the flyer arms
Apply a drop of oil to the flyer shaft and slide the bobbin and flyer whorl into position.
Tap wooden dowels to the bottom of the holes in
either end of the treadle rail.
Loosely attach the feet to the treadle rail with
50mm (2”) bolts and barrel nuts. Sit the base on
a flat surface and check the feet are level. Then
tighten the bolts.
Locate the metal cover plates into the
polyurethane hinges. Then attach the hinges to
the treadle rail with 16mm (5/8”) screws.
Lay the base on its back. Locate the metal cover
plates into the polyurethane hinges. Then attach
the treadle boards to the hinges with 16mm
(5/8”) screws.
Turn the base back over. Tap wooden dowels down to the bottom of the holes in the feet.
Attach the “toe saver” to the base
with 50mm (2”) screws.
Locate the base onto the dowels and secure
the base to the legs with 50mm (2”) bolt and
barrel nuts. Note the “toe saver” is towards
the front.
Secure main upright in place with
a 50mm (2”) bolt and barrel nut.
Tap wooden dowels to the
bottom of the holes in both ends
of the main upright. Position
the main upright onto the holes
in the base. Check that the ball
bearing with the extension faces
the back.
Insert the polyurethane conrod
joints into the end of the conrods.
Slide the crank through the ball bearings.
Slide the inner shell of the conrod universal joint onto the crank until it clicks into the groove.
Then click the front conrod onto the universal joint on the crank.
Slide the wheel onto the crank
and rotate the wheel until the
groove in the wheel aligns
with the hole in the end of the
crank. Then carefully tap the
hub pin into position.
HINT: Use a lazy kate pin as a
punch to avoid damaging the
wheel.
Note that the rear conrod
attaches to the left treadle
board and the front
conrod attaches to the
right treadle board.
Lay the wheel on it’s back. (protect your table with a towel or piece of cardboard)
Remove the front conrod from the crank.
Insert the front conrod joint into the right treadle board. Hold the conrod joint with one hand on either
side of the treadle board. With both hands turn the conrod joint a ¼ turn towards you. Slide it up into
the small slot and turn it back a ¼ turn until it clicks into place.
Then repeat this sequence for the rear conrod and the left treadle board.
Finally click the front conrod back onto the crank.
NOTE: It easier to insert the rear conrod joint into the treadle board when the treadle board is at the
lowest point - turn the wheel until the rear conrod is in the lowest position.
Tap the nylon bearing down to the bottom
of the hole in the rear flyer support.
Secure the front and back flyer supports to the maiden bar with 50mm (2”) Allen head screws.
Screw the hook and eye into the maiden bar.
Place the maiden bar onto the dowels
in the main upright and secure with a
50mm (2”) bolt and barrel nut.
35cm (13¾")
Insert the end of the flyer shaft into the rear flyer bearing and click the flyer orifice into the front flyer
bearing.
Tie the nylon brake band to spring . Thread the nylon brake band through the eye and tie spring
35cm (13 ¾”) from spring , then cut the surplus nylon off and tie it to the other end of spring .
Take the nylon brake band up and over the groove in the bobbin and place spring onto the hook.
Insert the tension knob into the maiden bar, thread the end of the nylon brake band through the hole in
the tension knob and tie a knot. Turn the tension knob to wind on excess nylon.
Take care not to over-stretch the springs.
Locate the drive band around the large
flyer whorl & small groove in the wheel.
This gives a flyer to wheel ratio of 5.5:1.
For a higher flyer speed, locate the drive
band on the small flyer whorl & large
groove in the wheel. This gives a flyer to
wheel ratio of 7.25:1.
NOTE. When not using your Kiwi 2
Spinning Wheel, please loosen the drive
belt to avoid it stretching.
Tie the 2 ends of the tape together, loop
it through the threading hook and hang it
on the tension knob.
Tap the lazy kate pins into the base and
locate the bobbins on them for storage
and plying
To make spinning easier apply a drop of
Ashford Spinning Wheel Oil to the flyer,
bobbin and conrod bearings.
2
3
41
5
6
Happy Spinning!

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