Associated Electrics RC10T2 Installation and operation manual

page 4
ABOUT THE RC10T2
Congratulations on your new RC10T2 model truck
kit purchase. We would like to tell you a little bit about your
new truck and its history. Team Associated developed the
first version of the RC10T in 1990. This was the first
production truck to be designed from the ground up to be a
truck. Before the RC10T, trucks were merely modified
buggies with truck parts added. Since the original version,
there were two additional models of the RC10T, the #7011
SportTruckkitandthe#7035TeamTruckkit,ourracetruck
version.With the RC10T2 we have moved trucks to the next
levelofperformance.Associatedhasknown foryearsabout
the advantages of an aluminum chassis. Starting from the
ground up we developed a completely new one. This new
computer-designed aircraft aluminum alloy hard anodized
chassisprovideduswithimprovedfront-to-rearrigidity,chas-
sissideclearance,andreducedweight,butstillprovidingyou
with a low center of gravity. The hard anodized finish im-
proves its durability. We designed along with it our new
integral rear end assembly. This consists of the rear bulk-
head,shockstrut,transmissioncase,motorplateandguard.
When all of this is assembled you have one of the most rigid
production main chassis structures available on any R/C
trucktoday.Thisoverallimprovedstiffnessisoneofthemore
obvious refinements.
Partoftheimprovedrearstructureincludesthe new
2.60:1 low profile Assoc. transmission. It features a larger
diffforincreasedtorquecapacityandreducedmaintenance.
It will also allow you to run even higher rpm modified motors
without the normal gearing problems. This will give you the
improved quickness and top speed you need to dominate
your competition. But the design changes do not end here.
The new transmission also has a new two piece motor plate
and motor guard assembly. At the same time you will find a
new lighter rear bulkhead and rear shock strut which inter-
lock with the transmission case.
You will find our latest suspension and steering
geometry changes give you a more aggressive yet easier
handlingtruckwithimprovedtractionandroughtrackperfor-
mance.Theeasewithwhichyournewtruckhandlesbenefits
both the new and experienced driver. You will find an
improved battery mounting system designed for both six or
seven cell battery packs. It can handle matched packs or
stickpacksandisdesignedtoletyouuseeitherplugsorhard
wire solder connections.
In the #7012 sport version you will find bronze
bushings throughout, gold anodized shocks, three piece
wheels with multi surface tires, dog bones and stub axles,
mechanicalspeedcontrol(withforwardandbrakesonly)and
akitDSSpecmotor.Intheoriginal#7036ballbearingversion
youwillfindanew,Associated-designed,universaldogbone
axle which is stronger and lighter and made to closer toler-
ances. To put the power to the ground this version also
includes some of the same tires we race with. The Proline
XTR compound “Edge” front tires and "Mini Pin" rear tires
(with front and rear foam inserts) for improved steering and
traction. You still get our race proven hard anodized PTFE
coatedshocksandPTFEshockpistons,AssociatedTorque
Control transmission clutch, and one piece racing wheels.
Tocoverallofthesenewraceenhancements both kits have
a new racing truck body with a low center of gravity design.
How does this truck perform? The pre-production
prototype TQ’ed both stock and modified classes and won
theStockNational titleatthe1994ROAR TruckNationalsin
GardenGrove,Calif.ItthenTQ'dandwonthefirstNORRCA
Electric Truck World Cup. It also TQ'd at the 1995 Winter
Championships in Tampa, Florida.
All of the above changes mean your new RC10T2
truck kit is the finest race truck available. After you have
driven your truck you will find out why Associated has won
moreWorldChampionshipandNationaltitlesthananyother
manufacturer.Ifyoureferbacktopagestwoandthreeofthis
manual you will see pictured the major features of the ball
bearing truck kit. The back cover shows the bushing kit
features.
BEFORE YOU BEGIN
Manypeoplewillfeelthephotosaredetailedenough
tothinktheywillnotneedtoreadtheinstructions.Thisis not
true. In addition to all of the photos there is important
information to assemble your truck found only in the text.
Eventhoughyouhavethebesttruckkitavailable,ifyouwant
the best COMPLETED TRUCK then you will want to put it
together correctly by following both text and photos.
Thismanualalsocoverstwoversionsofthetruckso
you will also find sections that are specific to one version
only. When possible we have combined the same steps for
both versions. This was done to eliminate confusion and to
show you how to correctly assemble the parts if you ever
decide to upgrade your sport version.
❑ S t e p 1 OPENTHEPARTSBAGSWHENTHESTEP
SPECIFIES, NOT BEFORE, otherwise you’ll get the parts
mixed up and then you will have trouble assembling your
truck.Whenyouopeneachmainbagforthefirsttime,check
thecontentsagainsttheseparate partslistsheet (accompa-
nying the manual) for that bag. This sheet shows the
contents of each bag by part number and quantity. All parts
bags are referred to by number or name in the instructions.
The unlabeled bags inside the main parts bags share the
same bag number as the bag they came out of.
❑ Step 2 KEEP THE PARTS SEPARATE. While
buildingthetruckyouwillsometimesbeworkingwithseveral
bagsatthesame time. Try nottoconfusethepartsfromone
bag with the parts from another. Large paper plates (espe-
cially picnic plates with partitions) are ideal for both keeping
parts separate and spreading them out where you can find
themeasier.Marktheplateswithbagnumbersanddumpthe
partsintothem.Whenthepartsareusedup,relabeltheplate
for the next bag.
❑ Step 3 CHECK FOR SUPPLEMENTARY SHEETS

page 5
WHICH LIST NEW KIT UPDATES. Because Associated is
constantlyworkingonnewideastoimproveourproducts,we
occasionally make updates to our kits. These updates may
notbecoveredintheinstructionmanualbecausethe printed
manuals cannot be immediately updated each time. These
changes will be noted by supplementary sheets which
explain which parts have been replaced or changed. So
before you begin assembling your kit, please check each
partsbag and thekit box tosee if theycontain these sheets.
Ifso,locatethesectionofthemanualwherethischangefirst
applies and attach the sheets to that section so you will not
forget them.
❑ Step 4 ADDITIONAL ITEMS NEEDED TO OPER-
ATE THE TRUCK:
❑ 2 Channel R/C surface frequency radio system
❑ Battery Pack (6 or 7 cell)
❑ Battery Charger (for 6 or 7 cell battery)
❑ Electronic Speed Control (ball bearing version only)
❑ R/C Motor (ball bearing version only)
❑ Pinion Gear (48 pitch); size will be determined by type of
motor being used. (ball bearing version only)
❑ Step 5 TOOLS. This kit contains the shock/turn-
buckle wrench and the four Allen wrenches you will need to
assemble the truck, but you will have to supply the following
tools and adhesives to finish the assembly:
❑ Phillips screwdriver #2 (#SP-76)
❑ 1/8" straight blade screwdriver, for bushing kit only
❑ Needle-nose pliers
❑ Hobby knife, such as an X-acto knife with a pointed #11
blade
❑ Precision steel rule
❑Solderingiron(40to50watts),andasmallamountofrosin
(notacid)core60/40solder.Wehavefoundfromexperience
that a pencil type soldering iron works better than the more
commonsolderingguns. Whilethesolderinggunsgenerate
a lot of heat, they have a hard time keeping the heat at the
tip.
❑Super Glue (cyanoacrylic glue) with safety gloves and
goggles.
Thekitcanbeassembledeasierandfasterwiththefollowing
tools:
❑ Allen drivers (straight Allen wrenches with hex shaped
aluminum handles), such as the following by Associated:
#6957 .050"
#6958 1/16"
#6959 5/64"
#6960 3/32"
#6961 2.5mm
❑ A 3/16" nut driver will make installing the ball ends and
small pattern nuts easier (#SP-86)
❑ A 1/4" nut driver will speed up installing the 1/4" locknuts
(#SP-85)
❑ A 11/32" nut driver will speed up installing the rear axle
locknuts (#SP-82)
❑ Venier or dial calipers (with decimal or metric measure).
WARNING! Do not use a power screwdriver to
installscrewsintonylonparts.Therotationspeedistoofast,
causing the screws to heat up when being driven into
composites or nylon and they will strip out.
FINALNOTES:(1)Experiencedbuildersandracers:please
build the truck our way first!! The T2 is a remarkably fast
truck right out of the box. There’s a good reason for every-
thing on the truck, and very few compromises were made in
its design. If you build it our way first you can see what the
truck is capable of before you make changes and you will
then have something to compare against. (2) Put a check
mark in the box (❑) at the beginning of each step after you
finishit.Thenwhenyoustopduringassembly,itwillbeeasier
to find where you need to continue from.
(3) Occasionally an actual-size drawing will accom-
pany the photo to help you identify certain parts. You can
place your part on top of the drawing to be sure you have
picked up the right part. Also, you may end up with some
spare parts and fasteners so don't worry. WARNING! Only
the drawings at the bottom of the photos are to true
scale. None of the photos are actual size. Even though
you may see dimensions marked in the photos, the
photosare still not actual size.
(4) We have used some special abbreviations
throughoutthismanualforthevarioustypesofscrewsused.
Thefollowing list identifieswhat the abbreviationsstand for:
● FHMScrew: Flat Head Machine Screw. A standard
thread screw which requires a Phillips screwdriver.
● FHSScrew: Flat Head Socket Screw. A standard thread
screw which requires a Allen wrench or driver. The same
type of tool is used for the two following fasteners:
● BHSScrew:ButtonHeadSocketScrew.RequiresanAllen
wrench or driver.
● SHCScrew: Socket head Cap Screw. Requires an Allen
wrench or driver.
(5) In order to keep a sense of direction when
building the truck we use the following descriptions to
standardize the right and left sides of the vehicle. The
driver’s or left side: with the driver sitting in the driver's seat,
his left hand side is the driver's side. The passenger or right
side will be the driver's right hand side. (6) The following
typesofspecialinstructions,in oblique, willbeusedthrough-
out the manual:
Racer’s Tip: This is a trick used by some of the Team
Drivers to improve their truck’s handling, performance and
maintenance.
Note: Alternate ways to assemble the kit, including tips for
smoothing out difficult assemblies.
WARNING! This alerts you to be careful in order to prevent
damagingtheparts,andwarnsagainstusingwrongpartsor
incorrect assembly that may reduce its performance.
SAVETHISMANUAL! Thisismorethananinstruc-
tion manual. It is also a handy supplement to the Team
Associated 1:10 scale truck off road catalog. You can use
themanualphotostohelpyouidentifypartnumbersandpart
names when ordering parts. In addition the manual can be
usedduringatechnicalassistancecalltoAsociatedifyouare

page 6
having assembly problems or have any questions.Contact
CustomerServiceat 714-850-9342. Pleaseremember,it's
not a race to see how fast you can put your truck together;
rather it's how well you put this truck together that will
determine how well you race. DON'T RUSH, TAKE YOUR
TIME. Nowclearoffyourworkbench,lineupsomepaper
plates, grab a drink and a sandwich, and let’s begin!
© 1996 ASSOCIATED ELECTRICS, INC.
3585 Cadillac Ave.
Costa Mesa, CA 92626
FRONT END ASSEMBLY
❏ Fig. 1 Before we start to assemble the front end,
remove the #6955 shock/turnbuckle wrench and the #6950
toolbag(whichcontainsthefourAllenwrenches)fromthekit
master bag. Set them aside, we will be using them through
out the assembly.
Fig. 1
❏ Fig. 2 (1) Find and remove bag #6-14. Now remove
two#6273longballendsandtwo#72604-40smallthinplain
nuts.(2)Inthesamebagyouwillfindathinflatpieceofwhite
foam with several donut shaped parts cut into the foam.
Theseare ournew#6272foam ballenddustcovers. Wewill
beinstallingoneoftheseovereachballendafterithasbeen
installed.(3)Nowopen bag #7-1and remove the#6210 30°
casterfront carrier blocks.The carrier blocksare connected
byasmallmoldedrunnerwhichyouwillneedtoremovewith
your X-acto©knife. Be sure to remove all of the runner. (4)
Screw one of the ball ends into each carrier block as shown
(5) and then thread on the plain nuts. NOTE: A 3/16" nut
driver (#SP-86) will make installing the steel ball ends and
small4-40nutseasier. (6)Nowinstalloneofthefoamballend
dust covers over each ball.
#6273
4-40
#7260
4-40
thin plain nut
Fig. 2
❏ Figs. 3 & 4 (1) Go to bag #7-1 again and remove
thetwo#6221 nylon steering blocks.Atthispoint there is no
righthand.orlefthandblock.(2)Frombag#6-14removetwo
of the #6273 long steel ball ends, two #6272 ball end dust
covers,two#72604-40smallpatternthinplainnuts,andfour
#6936#4aluminumflatwashers.(3)Placetwowashersonto
each ball thread and then screw one ball end into each
steeringblockasshownandthenthreadontheplainnutfrom
the back side. (4) Take two more of the #6272 dust covers
and install them over the two balls. Make sure the balls are
mountedonoppositesidesofthesteeringblockssothatthey
bothwillbeontopofthesteeringblockswhenmountedonthe
car. Once you have installed the ball ends on the steering
blocks there will then be a right and left steering block.
Fig. 3
Fig. 4
#6273
4-40
#7260
4-40
thin plain nut
#6936
#4 flat washer
aluminum

page 7
side. (2) Now reinstall one of the #6223 kingpins through
eachofthecarrier block/axle assemblies as showninfigs.7
&8. Try tocenter the kingpins.(3)Fig.9 shows a packageof
#6299 1/8" E-clips that came from bag #7-1. They are rolled
upandheldtogetherby a piece of tape.Theroll issosmall
and so easy to miss, you should actually look for the
white tape instead of the E-clips. Remove two from the
package and install one on each end of the kingpin into the
groovesateachend.(IfyourunoutofE-clips,therearemore
inbags#7-8and in the Shock Assemblypartsbag.)(4)Now
take out two more E-clips and install them on the other
kingpin. We will use the remaining E-clips in the following
steps.
Fig. 7
Fig. 8
Fig. 9
#6299
e-clip
1/8 shaft
❏ Fig. 10 (1) In bag #7-1 are two small #6951 4-40 x
1/8" socket set screws. (2) Locate your #6950 tool bag. (3)
TakeoutthesmallestAllenwrench(.050")anduseittoinstall
the two set screws into the #6221 aluminum front axles.
Note:Our Associated #6957 .050 screwdriver handle Allen
wrenchwouldhelphere. (4)Rotatethesteeringblocksinthe
block carriers so that you can see the threaded hole on the
backside of the #6221 aluminumfront axle. Slideone of the
❏ F i g . 5 Youwillfindthetwo#6220aluminuminlinefront
axles in bag #7-1. Your axles will look like step 1. We are
going to install one axle in each #6221 nylon steering block
(step 2), making sure that the hole in each axle lines up with
theholeinthesteeringblock.Thepartsshouldpushtogether
with your fingers, if they do not, then you may fit a 1/4" nut
driver over the threaded end of the axle, and then push the
axleintothesteeringblock(step3). WARNING!Thethreads
on the end of the axle are aluminum and can easily be
damaged by the nut driver. When installed, the axle will be
fairlytightinthesteeringblocksotrytoalignthetwoholesas
you are assembling the parts. WARNING!! Do not use
pliers on the bearing surface of the axle. This can
damage the axle surface so that the bearings will no
longer fit. It is safer to push the axle out of the steering
block and start the alignment process over if it will not
turn. Repeat the process for the second axle and steering
block.
Fig. 5
❏ Fig. 6 In bag #7-1 you will find two #6223 kingpins.
Thisbagcontainsseveraldifferentlengthpins,somatchthe
pinstotheactualsizedrawingatthebottom.Nowcheckthat
each kingpin will go through both steering blocks and axles.
If you don’t do this it will be almost impossible to get the
kingpintogothroughthe#6210carrierblockandthesteering
block and axle when we assemble them. Once you have
checked the fit of the kingpins remove them again.
Fig. 6
❏ Figs. 7, 8 & 9 (1) Take the two #6210 carrier
blocksandinstallthesteeringblocksandaxlesintoeachone.
Both steering block ball ends will be on the same side when
installed correctly and the raised side of the angle on the
bottom of the #6210 carrier block will be away from the ball

page 8
set screws onto the .050 Allen wrench and carefully thread
the set screw into the back of the front axle until it tightens
down on the kingpin as shown in fig. 9.(5)Do the same with
the other axle assembly.
Fig. 10
❏ Figs. 11, 12 & 13 Remove the bag containing
the front and rear suspension arms. From this bag remove
thetwo#7206frontsuspensionarmsasshowninfig.11.This
photo shows you which arm is right (passenger side) and
whichisleft(driver’sside).Italsoshowsyouwheretotrimthe
runners from the arms.
(1)Use your pliers to remove the runners from both
A-arms. (2)Use your hobby knife to remove any part of the
runnersremainingonthesuspensionarms.(3)Frombag#7-
1locatethetwo#6227outerhingepins(matchthemagainst
the scale drawing). Install one of the hinge pins through the
holes in the outside end of the A-arm, hold the pin, and see
ifthearm willswingfreelyonthe pin.(4)Usingthesamepin,
checkthe fitinthe#6210 leftfrontblockcarrier. Wewantthe
pinto fit tight inthehole.(5) Nowremove the outer hinge pin
andinstalltheleftblockcarrierassemblyintotheleftouterA-
armlocationusingthe#6227hingepin.(6)Installa#62991/
8"E-cliponeachendofthehingepin.Theballendswillboth
be on the back (or straight) side of the A-arm when installed
correctly.The#6210blockcarrierwillbeangledtowardsthe
front as shown in fig. 13.(6) Now repeat the above steps for
the right side A-arm. It will be a mirror image of the left.
Fig. 11
#6299
e-clip
1/8 shaft
Fig. 12
Fig. 13
❏ Figs. 14, 15 & 16 Go back to bag #7-1 and
remove the #7207 front bulkhead, the #7208 front bulkhead
aluminumsupport,andthetwo #7209frontinner hingepins.
Matchthehingepinstothescaledrawing.Fig.14showsyou
thefrontbulkheadalonetomakeiteasiertoidentifythefront
and back sides of the bulkhead. Check the fit of the #7209
hingepinsintheA-armsthesamewaywedidinfig.12.Free
themupifnecessary.Wewantthepinstobetightinthefront
bulkhead but free in the arms.
(1)StartingwiththeleftA-arm,installtheinnerhinge
pinfromthebacksidethroughthebackhalfoftheA-armand
the #7207 front bulkhead. (2) Now line up the #7208 alumi-
numbulkheadsupportbetweenthefrontsideofthebulkhead
and the front of the left A-arm. Push the hinge pin the rest of
thewaythrough.(3)Securethehingepinwitha#6299E-clip
oneachend.(4)Nowassembletherightsidesuspensionthe
same way. Fig. 16 shows the front bulkhead assembly
completed.
Fig. 14

page 9
Fig. 15
Fig. 16
❏ Figs. 17, 18 & 19 (1)From bag #6-14 remove
two#6270shortsteelballends,two#72604-40smallpattern
thin plain nuts, and two of the #6272 foam ball end dust
covers.(2)Now take the #7215 black fiberglass front shock
strut and two #6925 4-40 x 1/2" SHCScrews from bag #7-1.
(3)Install the #6270 short ball ends in the two holes outside
ofthe small oval shapedholes as shown. Atthis time it does
notmatterwhichsideoftheshockstrut you use. Tighten the
ballends(4)theninstallandtightenthetwoplainnutsonthe
ballends.(5)Installthedustcoversovertheballsnow.(6)Go
back to your #6950 tool bag and take out the largest Allen
wrench (3/32").(7) Use the two #6925 SHCScrews and the
3/32" Allen wrench to mount the #7215 shock strut on the
back side of the #7207 front bulkhead, making sure that the
ballendsareonthebacksidefacingawayfromthebulkhead
(see fig. 15). Note: All of the 4-40 SHCScrews in the kit can
beinstalledwiththe3/32"Allenwrenchsuppliedinthe#6950
tool bag. But an Associated #6960 3/32" Allen driver (or an
equivalent brand) will make installation of the same screws
easier and quicker.
(8) Inside the master shock bag are bags #7-9, #7-
10, and the shock assembly parts bag. From the master
shockbagfindandopenbag#7-10(thefrontshockbag).(9)
Openthe miscellaneoushardwarebagthatisinsidebag #7-
10 and remove two each #6927 4-40 x 3/4" SHCScrews,
#62954-40plainnuts,and#6936#4aluminumflatwashers.
(10) Install and tighten the #6927 SHCScrews in the outer
holeat thetopofthe frontshockstrut(see fig.19).Installthe
screws from the back side so the screw heads are on the
samesideastheballends.(11)Nowplaceaflatwasherover
thethreadsofeachscrew.(12)Nextinstallandtightenaplain
nut onto the threads of each screw as shown (see fig. 16). If
everythingisinstalledcorrectlythethreadswillbeonthefront
side of the shock strut extending over the front bulkhead.
#6270
4-40
#7260
4-40
thin plain nut
Fig. 17
#6925
4-40 x 1/2 #6927 4-40 x 3/4
Fig. 18
Fig. 19
#6295
4-40 plain nut #6936
#4 flat washer
aluminum
❏ Fig. 20 In bag #6-14 you will find fourteen #6274
plasticballcupsonamoldedtree.Inbag#7-1youwillfindtwo
#7253 2.62" long turnbuckles; remove four of the ball cups
andthreadthemontotheturnbucklesevenlyuntilyouadjust
them to the 2 15/16" (2.94" or 74.60mm) dimension shown
below. We have also included a scale drawing of the
turnbuckle parts and assembly with ball cups installed.
THESE DIMENSIONS ARE TO THE CENTER OF EACH
BALL CUP, NOT TO THE END OF EACH BALL CUP.The
ball cups face the same direction when installed. The
turnbuckleshaverighthandthreadsononeendandlefthand

page 10
threads on the other end, so they will screw on in different
directions. This will allow us to simply turn the turnbuckles
(from the hex center section) with the #6955 shock/turn-
buckle wrench to make adjustments.
2.94" (2 15/16", 74.60mm)
#6274 #7253 #6274
#6955 Fig. 20
❏ Fig. 21 Usingapairofslipjointor needle nosepliers,
snap the ball cups onto the steel ball ends as shown.
Fig. 21
❏ Fig. 22 The plastic ball cups can be removed quite
easilyfromtheballsbyholdingtheballcupsclosetotheball,
as shown, and twisting the ball cup off of the ball end as fig.
22 shows.
Fig. 22
❏ Figs. 23, 24 & 25 (1) Open bag #7-4 and
remove the #7305 black aluminum chassis nose plate. (2)
Back in bag #7-1 you will find four #6280 8-32 x 1/2"
aluminum FHMScrews. (3) Using a #2 Phillips screwdriver
we are going to install the front bulkhead assembly to the
#7305 nose plate. Insert one of the #6280 FHMScrews
through the bottom of the nose plate and line it up with the
appropriatehole in the bottomofthe front bulkhead (seefig.
24).Donottightenthescrewallthewaydown.(4)Nowinstall
the other three #6280 FHMScrews the same way and then
tighten down all four screws. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN,
otherwiseyouwillstripoutthenylon.Whenyouaredoneyour
front end will look like fig. 25.
Fig. 23
Fig. 24

page 11
#6280
8-32 x 1/2
aluminum
Fig. 25
❏ Fig. 26 Now remove the #7301 truck black hard
anodizedaluminumchassisfromthekitbox. Note:Ifyouare
familiar with our products you will see that this is a new
chassis design using our new aircraft aluminum alloy. The
chassis has been engineered to improve the rigidity of the
chassisforboth fronttorearandsidetoside.Italsofeatures
improved chassis side roll clearance for rougher tracks.
Fig. 26
❏ Figs. 27 & 28(1)Frombag#7-4removethesilver
colored#69318-32x1/4"steelFHMScrew(thisscrewisalso
part of the #7306 servo saver replacement screw set). (2)
Now open up bag #7-2 and remove the two #7306 special
black steel servo saver screws. These two screws are
different lengths, with a short threaded shank by the screw
head,asmoothcentershaftandthenasmallerthreadedend.
(3)Nowlineupthe#7305blackanodizedaluminum
nose plate with the front end assembly over the front of the
chassis as shown in fig. 27.(4) There are three holes in the
chassisandsixholesinthenoseplate.Startingwiththe1/4"
FHMScrew we are going to install it from the bottom of the
chassisusingthecenterholeofthechassisholesandthread
itintotheforwardcenterholeofthenoseplate.Donottighten
thisscrewcompletelyjustyet.(5)Nowinstallthelongerofthe
#7306 screws into the left front hole of the chassis (from the
bottom).Itwillthenthreadintotheleftforwardholeofthenose
plate if you have everything lined up correctly. Again do not
tighten this screw yet. (6) Now you can install the shorter
#7306 screw into the right front hole of the chassis and into
therightforwardholeofthenoseplate.(7)When everything
looks lined up and threaded correctly you can then finish
tightening up the three screws as shown in fig. 28.
Fig. 27
#6931
8-32 x 1/4
steel
#7306
7/8
special
Fig. 28
#7306
1 3/8
special
❏ Fig. 29 Inside the same bag #7-2 you will find the
#7531 black plastic servo saver parts tree and the #9156
aluminum servo saver tube. The names of the parts on the
partstreeare:(1)leftupperservosaver arm,(2)lowerservo
saver bushing, (3) upper servo saver bushing, (4) left lower
servo saver arm, (5) right side bellcrank. Remove the two
servo saver bushings and install them into the servo saver
tube. The upper bushing goes into the threaded end of the
tubeandthelowerbushinggoesintothehexendofthetube.
Fig. 29

page 12
❏ Figs. 30 & 31(1)Takeoutthe#9157servosaver
springandthe#9157aluminumspringadjustingnutfrombag
#7-2.(2)Nowremovethelowerleftservosaverarmfromthe
parts tree. (3) Before we install the lower servo saver arm
overtheauminumtube,lookatthebottomofthearm.Youwill
find a recessed hex shaped area that will match up with the
hex portion at the bottom of the aluminum tube. Slide the
lower servo saver arm over the alumnum tube and push it
down until the tube hex fits into the hex shaped recess. (4)
Next we need to remove the upper servo saver arm. Install
it over the tube with the "V" shaped portion facing down into
the"V" grooveofthelowerarm.Make sure the upperarmis
facing to the right (with the lower arm facing away from you)
asshowninthephoto. Racer’sTip:TeamdriverscoattheV-
groove portion of the servo saver with a small amount of
#6588blackgreasetoimprovetheservosaverperformance.
Note:Someservosmay not fit,wewilldiscussthese later in
the instructions when we are installing the steering servo.
(5)Ifyoulookatthetopoftheupperleftservosaver
arm(after it isinstalled onto thealuminum tube) youwill see
there is a recessed area. Slide the #9157 spring over the
aluminumtubeandintotherecesssedarea.(6)Lookclosely
at the spring adjusting nut. You will see that one side of this
nut also has a recessed area. Slide the nut over the tube,
recessedsidefirst,andthreaditontothetube.(7)Tightenthe
nut until 1/32" of the tube threads are exposed above the
adjustingnut. Racer'sTip:Youcanadjusttheservosaver
tensionbytighteningorlooseningthealuminumadjust-
ing nut. This changes the tension on the servo saver
spring.Themoreyoutightentheservosaverspring,the
moreloadyoutransfertotheservogears.Theadjusting
nutshouldonlybebelowtheinitialsettingunderlimited
racingconditionsonanextremelyhightractionsurface.
Fig. 30
Fig. 31
❏ Figs. 32 & 33 Nowweneed togobacktobag #6-
14 and remove five #6270 short steel ball ends and four
#6272foamballenddustcovers.Layouttheleftservosaver
armassemblyandtherightbellcrankasshowninfig.32.Now
weneedtothreadthe five ball ends into theservosaverand
bellcrank per the photo. After all the ball ends are installed
youcanthenpushthe#6272foamdustcoversoverthefront
four ball ends. You will not be installing a foam dust cover
over the servo tie rod ball end.
Note: You do not need to
install nuts on the bottom of these five ball ends.
Now remove the #6265 molded drag link from bag
#7-2.Wewanttoinstallthedraglinkbetweentheservosaver
armandbellcrankasshowninfig.33.Snapitoverthecenter
balls on both bellcranks using needle nose pliers.
Fig. 32
#6270
4-40
Fig. 33
❏ Fig. 34 Slip the completed servo saver assembly
downontothetwo#7306servosavermountingscrews(that
boltthenoseplateassemblytothechassis).Thiswillputthe
lefthandservosaverarmonthelongestscrewwiththeservo
armfacingthecenterofthetruck.Frombag#7-2takeouttwo
#6222 4-40 black self threading nylon locknuts. Thread one
onto each of the servo saver mounting screws. Tighten the
nuts down just enough to remove any excess up and down
play in each servo saver arm, but NOT TOO TIGHT. The
servosaverarmsshouldbeabletoswingtotheleftandright
very freely. The servo saver arms should also be parallel
when installed.

page 13
#6222
4-40/5-40
nylon locknut
Fig. 34
❏ Fig. 35 & 36 From bag #7-4 remove the two
#7315 black anodized nose brace tubes. Also remove two
#6925 4-40 x 1/2" SHCScrews and two #6285 4-40 x 1/4"
SHCScrews.Lookcloselyata nosebracetube.Youwillsee
that one tube end has one hole closer to the end of the tube
than the other and that it is an unthreaded hole. Slip the end
with the unthreaded hole towards the front of the truck,
through the oval shaped hole on the passenger side of the
blackfrontshockstrut.Aligntheholeinthetubewiththehole
inthesaddleofthefrontbulkhead.Installoneofthe#69254-
40 x 1/2" SHCScrews in the front hole but do not tighten it
downalltheway.Nowlineupthebackholeinthenosebrace
tubewiththebackholeonthefrontsideofthechassisinstall
the#6285 SHCScrew.Nowgobackand dothesameforthe
othernosebracetube.Fig.36showsthefrontofthechassis
showing the four mounting hole locations with the screws
installed. After both tubes and their screws have been
installed you can tighten all four screws. Be sure not to
overtighten the screws.
Fig. 35
#6925
4-40 x 1/2
#6285
4-40 x 1/4
steel
Fig. 36
❏ Fig. 37 In bag #7-2 you will find two #7253 2.62"
turnbuckles. From bag #6-14 remove four #6274 ball cups.
Thread the ball cups onto each end of the two turnbuckles.
Remember the turnbuckles have both right and left hand
threads, and on one end of each turnbuckle the ball cup will
threadontheoppositeway.Thedrawingswiththisstepshow
the actual assembled dimension with the ball cups and the
actual length of the #7253 turnbuckle. On these two turn-
buckles (when assembled) the ball cups all face the same
direction.
Using your needle nose pliers install both of the
steering turnbuckles onto the servo saver ball ends and the
steering arm ball ends as shown in fig. 39.
3.17" (3 11/64", 80.55mm)
#6274 #7253 #6274
#6955
Fig. 37
❏ Figs. 38, 39 & 40 (1) Locate bag #7-5 and
remove the black nylon body mount tree. Fig. 38 shows the
location of the front and rear body mounts on this parts tree.
Removethetwo#7319frontbodymounts.(2)Gobacktobag
#7-5 and remove the #7318 front body mount brace and the
two#69184-40x1/2"BHSScrews.(3)Useyour#69501/16"
Allen wrench from the Tool bag to mount the front body
mounts to the front body mount brace, as shown in fig. 39,
with the two #6918 screws. Note: To hold the front body
mountwhileyouaretighteningthescrewyoucanuseoneof
the#6332bodyclips(hoodpins)installedinitsmountinghole
to hold the mount. (4) Align the small body clip holes in the
endsofthebodymountssotheypointtotheleftandright.(5)
Tighten the screws but not too tight.
(6)Nowweneedtoinstallthefrontbodymountbrace
assemblyontothefront bulkhead. Take two #69244-40x3/
8" SHCScrews from bag #7-5. Install the body mount brace
overthefrontbulkhead,facingtowardstheback.Thiswillput
the body mounts over the bulkhead as well and they will be

page 14
pointingstraightup,notatanangle,wheninstalledasshown
in fig. 40.
Fig. 38
Fig. 39
#6918
4-40 x 1/2 #6924 4-40 x 3/8
Fig. 40
❏ Figs. 41 & 42 Youwillfindthe#7324frontbumper
inbag#7-4.Taketwo#62914-40x1/4"FHSScrewsandtwo
#6295 4-40 plain nuts from the same bag. The front bumper
is recessed on one side so it will fit over the black aluminum
nose plate. The front of the bumper has two countersunk
holes where you will install the two #6291 flat head screws.
Nowthreadonthetwo#62954-40plainnutsonthebackside
of the nose plate and tighten them down.
Fig. 41
#6291
4-40 x 1/4
Fig. 42
2.60:1 T2
TRANSMISSION
ThenewT2Trannyisourlatestelectrictruckversion
oftheAssoc.Transmissionandfeaturesalargerdifferential
whichgivesyouafinaldriveratioof2.60:1.Thistransmission
alsofeaturesanewlowprofilecasedesign,whichphysically
bolts to the rear shock strut and bulkhead to add additional
structuralrigiditytotherearofthechassisanddrivetrain.The
larger diff gives you greater torque capacity and increases
time between rebuilds. The prototype version of this trans-
mission was first used at the 1994 ROAR Truck Nationals
held in Garden Grove, California. It TQ'd both stock and
modified truck classes and won the Stock truck A-main.
This lower final drive T2 Assoc. transmission will
nowallowyoutorunhottermodifiedmotorsthanbefore.Now
you can have that extra power that you wanted in order to
more easily defeat your competition. With this transmission
yournew truck willbe more reliableand easier to drive. This
all depends, of course, on how well you assemble and
maintainyourtransmission.Sotake your time and do itwell.
Please note that during the assembly of the
transmission we will be using the same instructions to
sow the assembly of both the bushing and ball bearing
version kits. The only parts that will be different will be
bag B which will contain either the bushings or ball
bearings depending upon the kit you have. If you are
uncertainwhichkitversionyouhave,thedescriptionon
the box end label underneath the retail price and model
number will indicate if you have ball bearings.
❏ Fi g. 43 (1)OpentheAssoc.transmissionbag;inside
youwillfindbagsmarkedA,B,C,D,E&F. You will also find
agearcoverbag,themotorplateandacoupleofsmalltubes
oflube.(2)GoaheadandlocatebagA,thediffassembly.(3)
From bag A you will want to remove the #7664 diff gear and
the small bag containing the twelve #6581 3/32" carbide diff
balls (these are the larger of the two ball sizes). These
carbide balls are the best available. They will outlast the diff
drive rings at least ten times (if the diff is kept clean and
lubed).
WARNING! NEVER replace your diff balls with

page 15
any other balls except our #6581 carbide diff balls The
tolerancesweusearetighterthanmostothercompanys'.
Due to these tight tolerances and careful packaging of
matched balls, when replacing lost or worn 3/32" diff
balls,youMUSTreplaceALL3/32"ballsatthesametime
with new balls from the same package. This means you
cannot even mix balls from two separate #6581 packag-
es.
(4) Look at the center hole of the #7664 diff gear. If
thereisanyflashontheinsideholeyoumustremoveit.Take
yourX-acto©knifeandcarefullytrimtheflashfromthecenter
hole. You can make sure you do not remove any of the gear
itselfbyusingthetipoftheX-acto©blade,whichturnseasier
in the hole when removing the flash.
(5) From the Assoc. transmission bag remove the
#6591Assoc.siliconedifflubetube.Anotherwordofcaution.
DO NOT substitute any other type of diff lube on the balls. It
took us countless hours of testing to find the correct silicone
diff lube to make the diff work correctly. Do yourself a favor:
Usewhatcomesinthiskit! WARNING!Donotusethe#6588
blackgreaseonthe#6581 3/32" diff balls. Fill thetwelveball
holes in the diff gear with silicone diff lube (6)and then push
the twelve #6581 3/32" balls into the holes. (7) Wipe the
excess lube back into the ball holes with your finger. Fig. 45
showsyourcompleted diff gear.(8)Carefullycleanallofthe
silicone grease off your hands.
Fig. 43
❏ Figs. 44 & 45 (1) Next open bag B, from the
Assoc. transmission bag. (Remember this will be the only
transmission bag that will be different between the different
kitversions)Ifyouhaveaballbearingkityouwillbeusingthe
partsandpartnumbersshownontheleftsideoffig.44.Ifyou
have a bushing kit you will be using the parts and part
numbers shown on the right side. All kits (bushing and ball
bearing)willusea#6596bushingforthetorqueclutch.Ifyou
have a ball bearing kit you will have eight bearings and one
bushingwhilethebushingkitswillhaveninebushings. Note:
Allthebushingsusedinthekitarepre-oiledthroughaspecial
manufacturing process, so no oil in needed on the bushings
during the assembly. In this bag you will find a total of eight
bearings and one bushing. (2) Remove one of the #6589
5/32" x 5/16" unflanged ball bearings or one of the #6597
5/32" x 5/16" unflanged bronze bushings. WARNING!! On
bushing kits both the #6596 and #6597 bushings have
the same outside diameter; only the inside diameter is
different. Do not use the larger inside diameter bushing
for this step. If you do, the torque clutch will not go
together later in the assembly and you will have to take
the transmission and differential apart again to switch
the #6596 for the correct #6597 bushing. (3) Place the
#6589 ball bearing or #6597 bushing into the center hole of
the #7664 differential gear as shown in fig. 45.
Fig. 44
Fig. 45
#6589
5/32 x 5/16
unflanged bearing
❏ Figs. 46, 47, 48 & 49 (1)InbagAyouwillfind
themolded#6575T-nutanddiffthrustboltcover(seefig.46).
(2) Trim the two parts from the nylon runner. We will use it
near the end of the transmission assembly. WARNING!
Make certain that you do not cut off the “ears” on the T-
nut or the thrust bolt cover. The ears are needed to
prevent the parts from spinning freely in the outdrives.
Fornowsetthediffthrustboltcoveraside;wewilluseitnear
the end of the transmission assembly.
(3) Now remove the #6582 diff thrust spring and the
#7668 left diff outdrive hub (the one with the small nipple on
it)fromthesamebagA. WARNING!!Pleasemakesureyou
do not get the #6582 diff thrust spring mixed up with the
#6587 torque control spring (from bag E) used later
during the assembly. The torque control spring has a
slightly larger outside diameter and will jamb inside the
diffoutdrivehubifforcedin. Nowcheck tomakesurethat
there are no burrs or residue on the inside or outside, of the

page 16
diff outdrive hub, which could damage parts or reduce the
performance of the diff. Slide the diff spring into the left diff
outdrivehub.Itshouldslideinorgoinwithverylightpressure
untilthespringreachesthebottomoftheoutdrivehubcavity.
(4)Next aligntheT-nutwiththeslotsintheoutdrivehub and
push it in. Make sure the steel insert side goes in first. This
will place the T-nut "ears" on the outside away from the diff
spring. Slide the T-nut all the way down against the spring.
(5)(Fig.48)TheearsontheT-nutshouldbeapproxi-
mately 3/32" or a little less than .100" from the bottom of the
slot. Take your X-acto knife and trim off any of the plastic T-
nutthatextendsoutside both sides of theslotintheoutdrive
hub. The diff outdrive hub will not fit through the ball bearing
inthecaseifwedonottakecareofthisnow. WARNING!!Be
careful here so that you do not cut yourself, since you
will be cutting towards your thumb.
Fig. 46
Fig. 47
Fig. 48 Fig. 49
❏ Fig. 50 (1)In bag A you will also find a little bag
containingthesixsmaller#65745/64"precisionthrustballs.
Inanotherlittlebagyouwillfindthe#65752-56diffthrustbolt
and the two #6573 (special hardened steel washers) diff
thrust washers. WARNING! NEVER replace your thrust
balls with any other balls except our #6574 thrust balls
The tolerances we use are tighter than most other
companys'. Due to these tight tolerances and careful
packagingofmatchedballs,whenreplacinglostorworn
5/64" thrust balls, you MUST replace ALL 5/64" balls at
the same time with new balls from the same package.
Thismeansyoucannotevenmixballsfromtwoseparate
#6574 packages.
(2) Sliponeofthe#6573diffthrustwashersontothe
#6575diffthrustboltasshown. Racer'sTip:Carefullylook
at the center hole of the first thrust washer; you will be
see that each side is beveled. One side is beveled more
thantheother;This sideis installedtowardstheheadof
the thrust bolt. This will help to insure that the thrust
assemblywill work assmoothlyas possible. (3)Goback
to the Assoc. main bag and locate the tube of #6588 black
grease.(4) Open the tube and place a small amount on the
washer.Usejustenoughgreasetoholdthesixballsinplace
on the washer. WARNING! Do Not use the #6591 Assoc.
diff lube on the six #6574 5/64" diff thrust balls. (5) Now
carefully place thesix #6574 balls in the grease around the
washer. (6) Slide the second washer onto the bolt until it
contacts the balls. WARNING!! Make sure that you have
exactly six thrust balls installed between the washers.
Morethansixwillcausethedifftobackoffandlessthan
six can cause the thrust washers to crack.
Fig. 50
❏ Fig. 51 (1) Remove the #7667 right diff outdrive hub
and one of the #7666 diff drive rings from bag A. Go back to
bagBandtakeoutthesecond5/32"x5/16"#6589unflanged
ball bearing or #6597 5/32" x 5/16" unflanged bushing (re-
member these parts are determined by which kit you pur-
chased). Now check to make sure that there are no burrs or
residue on the inside or outside of the right diff outdrive hub
whichcoulddamagepartsorreduce theperformanceofthe
diff. (2) Install the #6589 bearing or #6597 bushing into the
cavity in the center of the right diff hub. It should just push in
with your finger. Never drive or force the bearing or
bushing into the hub cavity! (3) Now place the #7666 diff
drive ring onto the right diff hub. Racer’s Tip: The Team
Driversalwayscheckthediffdriveringsforthesidethat
ismorerounded on theedgeandplace this side against
thehub which willgiveyou thebestdiff action possible.
Do not try to pin the drive ring to the hub. This hub and
ring system are designed to lock the drive ring without
pinning. Please leave it AS IS.

page 17
Fig. 51
#6589
5/32 x 5/16
unflanged bearing
❏ Fig. 52 Go back to your #6950 tool bag and remove
the5/64"Allenwrench.SlidethelongendoftheAllenwrench
intotheheadofthe#6575diffthrustbolt.Wewillbeinserting
thebolt,washers,andthrustballsintothecenterofthe#7667
right diff outdrive hub, as shown. Note:Associated’s #6959
5/64" Allen wrench will work well here.
Fig. 52
❏ Fig. 53 With the Allen wrench still in the head of the
diff bolt, turn the hub assembly upright so that the wrench is
onthebottom.Makesurethatthe #7666 diff drive ring is still
on and centered. Now pick up the #7664 diff drive gear with
the balls and bearing installed and slip it over the #6575 diff
thrustboltontothedriveringandhub.Wewanttocenteriton
the diff drive ring on the right diff hub.
NowgobacktobagAandtakeoutthesecond#7666
diffdrivering.Wearegoingtoinstallthisseconddriveringon
thetop side of thediff gear over thediff balls and centerit as
best as you can. Note: In the photo for fig. 53 we have
removed the Allen wrench so that you can see the diff
gear before the #7666 drive ring is installed and as it is
being installed. Remember, if you are doing the racers
setuptheroundedsidewillbeup. WARNING!Ifyouremove
thegearatanytimebeforeyoucompletelyassemblethe
diffhalvesalwaysdoublechecktomakesureyoudonot
havebothdriveringsonthesameside.Thiscanbeeasy
to do because one drive ring may stick to the diff gear
and the other could be stuck to the diff outdrive hub.
Fig. 53
❏ Figs. 54 & 55 (1)With theAllenwrenchstillin the
diffbolt,turntheright hub so that the endoftheboltisfacing
up. WARNING!!: Make sure you securely hold the Allen
wrench in the head of the diff thrust bolt. This will
prevent the bolt, washers and possibly the diff thrust
balls from falling out during assembly and possibly
gettinglost. (2)Nowwearegoingtoinstallthe#7668leftdiff
drive hub assembly over the #6575 diff bolt until it seats on
the #7666 diff drive ring (as shown in fig. 54). When picking
up your left diff hub place your finger over the slotted end of
thehubsothattheT-nutandspringcannotfallout.Makesure
that the outdrive hub centers on the top diff drive ring when
it fits into the center of the diff gear. (3) While holding the
upper diff hub, tighten the diff bolt using the Allen wrench.
Pleasemakesurethehubsanddiffdriveringsstaycentered.
(4) Once you have lightly snugged the two halves together
youcanturnthe diff assembly sideways, asshown,tomake
thefinaladjustmenteasier(seefig.55).Holdthelefthuband
tightenthescrewuntilitstops.Thiswillfullycompressthediff
spring under the T-nut. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. Correct
adjustmentistighteningthediffboltandspringuntilthestop,
then backing the bolt off 1/8 of a turn.
When the adjustment is finished the diff should be
tight but the operation of the diff should feel smooth when
turningthehubsinoppositedirections.Rememberthisisnot
afreespinningcomponent.Wearelookingfortheballrolling
motion to feel smooth not rough.
Note: After you have run
the car once, you will need to recheck the diff adjust-
ment. The first run makes sure that all the parts seat
correctly. After you have rechecked the diff adjustment
itshould onlybenecessary tocheckthe diffadjustment
occasionally.
ADJUSTING THE DIFF: As you are tightening the
diff bolt, you will notice the ears on the T-nut moving closer
to the bottom of the slot in the left diff outdrive hub. This
causes the diff spring (under the T-nut) to compress. The
spring and diff bolt should stop about the same time as the
T-nut ears reach the bottom of the slot. If it is only off by a
smallamount, there is noproblem.Bottoming out the spring
andboltis veryimportant.Thetensionofthe spring canonly
be consistent if you start from the same point each time. A
fullycompressedspringisyourstartingpoint.Thisway,when
you back off the bolt 1/8 of a turn you will always have the
samespringtension,soyourdiffwillbeconsistent.Weagain

page 18
wanttoremindyouthatthisdiffisnotdesignedtoslip.Weuse
thetorqueclutchtocontrolanyslippagethetruckneeds.This
iswhythewrongdifflubeorsiliconecompoundcanallowthe
difftoslip.Thiswouldreducethetransmissionsperformance
and increase the parts wear.
Fig. 54
Fig. 55
❏ Figs. 56 & 57 (1) Open bag C and remove the
#7375leftandrightT2 Assoc.transmissioncase halves.(2)
Thetwo case halvesare attached, bya mold runner.On the
mold runner will be the three #7375 motor plate spacers.
Removetherunnerandmotorplatespacers,fornow.Wewill
use them after a few more steps. (3) Remove any flashing
from the case halves.(4)Now go back to bag B. If you have
a ball bearing kit, remove four #6906 3/16" x 3/8" unflanged
ball bearings and two #6903 3/8" x 5/8" unflanged PTFE
sealed ball bearings. If you have a bushing kit you will be
removingfour#65993/16"x3/8"unflangedbushingsandtwo
#6598 3/8" x 5/8" unflanged bushings. The photo in fig. 57
shows the bearings installed in each case half but the
bushings will install the same way.
#6906
3/8 x 3/16
unflanged bearing
#6903
3/8 x 5/8
unflanged bearing
Fig. 56
Fig. 57
❏ Figs. 58, 59 & 60 (1)Open bag D and remove
the#6571driveshaft/gearassemblyandthetwo#7669drive
shaft spacers. Carefully check both sides of the roll pin hole
inthedrivegear/shaftandmakesuretherearenoburrsinthe
hole or raised edges around the hole. If there are, carefully
deburrthe holeandremoveanyraised edges.Wearetrying
tomakesurethattheholeisnotblockedwhenwegotoinstall
the roll pin in the next couple of steps. We are also trying to
makesurethatthebushing or bearing will be abletoslideall
the way onto the shaft. Now take the #6571 drive gear and
push one of the #7669 spacers onto the threaded shaft end
all the way down against the gear.
Insert the shaft through the upper bearing of the
#7375 right transmission housing half so that the shaft is
facing out to the right and the gear is inside against the
bearing as shown in fig. 60. Take the second #7669 drive
shaftspacerandinstallitontotheouterendofthedrivegear
shaft. Slide it all the way down next to the drive gear.
Fig. 58

page 19
Fig. 59
Fig. 60
❏ Figs. 61 & 62 OpenbagEandremovethe#6572
3/8" long roll pin. Now using a pair of needle nose pliers
squeezetherollpinintotheholeinthe#6571driveshaftand
centerthe pintothebestofyourability (seefig.62). Racer's
Tip: You can use your needlenose pliers to gently close
the split on one end of the roll pin. This slightly smaller
endwillthenbeeasiertogetstartedintotherollpinhole.
Fig. 61
Fig. 62
#6572
roll pin
❏ Figs. 63, 64 & 65 We are now going to install
the other gears into the right transmission housing. (1)First
we need to install the second #7669 drive shaft spacer onto
theouterendofthe#6571driveshaft/gearassembly.(2)now
pickupyour differentialassemblysowecaninstall it intothe
lower bearing of your transmission case. Note: Make sure
that you install the diff bolt head so that it will end up on the
same right (passenger) side of the transmission where the
drive shaft is. If you install the diff backwards so that it is on
the left or driver's side you may have a problem with the diff
backing off (loosening up).
(3)Nowwe can installthe #6570
idlergear(thatwasalsoinbagD)intothetransmissioncase.
(4) Fig. 65 shows all three gears installed into the right case
half with the left case half ready to install over the gears.
Fig. 63
Fig. 64
Fig. 65
❏ Fig. 66 Open bag F and remove the three #6928 4-
40x1.0"SHCScrewsandone#69254-40x1/2"SHCScrew.
Fitthetwotransmissionhousinghalvestogetherand thread
thethree#6928SHCScrewsintotheupperthreeholesinthe

page 20
Fig. 68
Fig. 69
❏ Figs. 70 & 71 (1)Inthesamemotorplatebagyou
will find the #7371 black aluminum motor guard. (2)Now go
backtobagFandtakeouttwo#62884-40x1/4"BHSScrews.
Now you are going to fasten the motor guard to the motor
plate with the #6288 screws. The motor guard fits over the
mounting points on the motor plate. See fig. 71.
Fig. 70
#6288
4-40 x 1/4
housing, from the left hand side, as shown. Now thread the
#6925 SHCScrew into the bottom front hole of the housing.
This is done from the left hand side as well. WARNING!:
Makesurethatthe#7669driveshaftspacerisstillonthe
outershaftendbeforeclosingup thetransmission case
halves. Failure to do so can cause transmission prob-
lems later.
Fig. 66
#6928
4-40 x 1 #6925 4-40 x 1/2
❏ Fig. 67 Nowwecantakethethree#7375blackmotor
plate spacers we set aside in Fig. 56. These are going to
install into three cavities of the right housing half over the
threaded ends of the #6928 SHCSrews as shown. They will
install with the small end of the spacer first which will fit into
the cavity.
Fig. 67
❏ Figs. 68 & 69 (1) Go back to your transmission
bagandlocatethebagcontainingthe#7370blackaluminum
motor plate. (2) We also want to find the small bag which
containsthe#7373foammotorplategasket.(3)Nowpealthe
backing from the gasket and center it over the round hole in
themotorplate.Wewanttoinstallitontothebacksideofthe
motor plate. (4) Slide the motor plate over the drive shaft
(foamgasket sidefirst).Linethethreadedholesin themotor
plate up with the screws coming out of the motor plate
spacers.Threadthescrewsintothemotorplateuntiltheplate
issecuredtothespacers.Justsnugthescrewsdown,donot
try to over tighten them. Make sure your motor plate is
installedwiththe motorguardtabsonthetransmission case
side as shown in fig. 69

page 21
Fig. 71
❏ Figs. 72 & 73 Now we are going to start
assemblingtheAssociatedTorqueControlclutchassembly.
From bag E remove the #6583 inner torque clutch hub. On
the back of the hub you will find a slot which will fit over the
#6572rollpinofthedrivegear/shaftassembly.Installthehub
onto the shaft slotted end first making sure that the slot fits
down over the roll pin.
Fig. 72
Fig. 73
❏ Figs. 74, 75 & 76BagEalsocontainsthe#6584
Associated outer torque control clutch hub and the #6585
Rulonclutchdisc.Removethesefromthebag.Fig.74shows
bothsidesofthe#6584outertorqueclutchhubalongwiththe
#6585 Rulon clutch disc. It also shows the two parts as-
sembled.
Nowitistimetocompletetheassemblyofthetorque
clutch.InbagByouwillfindthe#65963/16"x5/16"unflanged
bushing.Rememberallversionsofthetruckusethisbushing
in the torque clutch. In bag E you will find the #6594 thrust
bushing and two #6594 steel thrust washers, as well as the
#6587torquecontrolspringandthe#66295-40goldcolored
locknut.Fig.75hasall the parts laid out intheordertheywill
go onto the drive gear/shaft.
(1) Install the #6596 bushing inside the hole on the
outside of the #6584 outer clutch hub. (2) Now we need to
installtheclutchhub,Rulon disc, and bushing onto thedrive
shaft.Makesurethatthebushinggoesontothelargeportion
of the drive shaft and that the clutch disc stays centered on
the hub. (3) Next we will install one of the #6594 hardened
steel thrust washers (shiny finish). When this is installed
correctlyitwillbeinsidethehubsothat the outer face will be
almostflushwith thetopedgeofthe#6584 outer clutchhub.
(4) The next item installed will be the #6594 thrust bushing
thatlooks likeathickgoldwasher. Note:Ifthethrustwasher
doesnotslide easilyontothe shaft justafterthe threads you
will need to remove the thrust washer and deburr the inside
edgesofthecenterholewithanX-acto©knife. (5)Nowinstall
the second #6594 hardened steel thrust washer (shiny
finish). WARNING! Do not get the special hardened steel
thrust washers, from bag E, mixed up with the #6936 alumi-
numwashersinthekit.Usinganyotherwashersfromthekit
could damage the torque clutch assembly. (6) After the
secondwasheryouwillinstallthe#6587torquecontrolspring
(7) followed by its #6629 5-40 gold colored locknut. Tighten
thenutsothatonefullthreadisshowingoutsidethelocknut.
This will be a good starting point for breaking in your torque
clutch. Fig. 76 shows all the parts installed. We will discuss
fine tuning the adjustments on your transmission later.
Fig. 74
#6594
washer #6594 bushing
Fig. 75
#6629
5-40 locknut
#6596
3/16 x 5/16
unflanged bushing

page 22
Fig. 76
❏ Figs. 77 & 78 Open bag #7-15 and remove the
#6695 87 tooth 48 pitch Assoc. spur gear. From bag F
removetwo#65684-40x3/16"BHCScrews.Mountthespur
gear with the back side (which has a raised circle about the
diameterofaquarterinthecenter)towardsthetorqueclutch
assembly. (This is the side without the molded spur gear
number.) Line up the two hub mounting holes with the gear
mounting holes and install the 3/16" BHCScrews. Note: Do
your best to press on the spur gear evenly and then try and
tightenthe mountingscrewsevenly.Thiswillhelptoprevent
any warping of the spur gear causing gear meshing prob-
lems.
Fig. 77
#6568
4-40 x 3/16
Fig. 78
❏ Fig. 79 Back in fig. 46 we set aside the #6575 nylon
diffthrustboltcover(lookslikeathinversionofthe#6575T-
nut without the steel insert). We are now going to install this
into the right (passenger side) diff outdrive. This is used to
cover the head of the diff bolt and to help keep dirt out of the
thrust bearing assembly. It still allows you to check your diff
adjustment without taking the cover out each time.
Final transmission adjustments and maintenance
are discussed in the tuning section at the end of the manual
Fig. 79
REAR END ASSEMBLY
❏ Figs. 80 & 81 In bag #7-4 you will find the new
#7322 black nylon rear bulkhead (fig. 80). From bag #6-14
you will need to remove two #6273 long ball ends and two
#6272ballenddustcovers. To install the ball endsproperly,
lookatthelabelsidentifyingthefrontandbacksideoftherear
bulkhead infigs. 80and81.As youlookatthe bulkheadyou
willseethattwooftheholesnearthecenterarecountersunk
on one side. Between them you will find a small rectangular
hole. This is the front of the rear bulkhead, now turn the
bulkhead over so we can install the ball ends on the back
side. To the outside of each of the center holes you will find
twomoreholesoneachside.Wewillinstalltheballendsinto
theoutermostholes.Afteryouhavethreadedintheballends
you can install one of the #6272 dust covers over each ball
end.
Fig. 80
#6273
4-40

page 23
Fig. 81
❏ Figs. 82, 83 & 84 (1) In bag #7-4 you will find
the#7352blackfiberglassrearshockstrut.(2)Nowgo back
tobag#7-5andremovethetwo#7323rearbodymountsand
two #7323 rear body mount posts, two #6285 4-40 x 1/4"
SHScrews,andtwo#69244-40 x 3/8" SHCScrews.(3)Trim
thefour#7323bodymountpartsfromthemoldrunnerifthey
are still attached. (4) Use the #6285 screws to mount the
small round rear body mount posts to the rear body mounts
asshowninfig.83.(Youcanuseoneofthe#6332bodyhood
pinsfrombag#7-5toholdtheroundpostwhileyoutightenthe
mountingscrew.)Therearenotalotofthreads,sobecareful
nottoovertighten.(5)Dothesameforthesecondmount.The
bodypinholesshouldpointtotheleftandrightwhenmounted
on the truck.(6) On each side of the #7352 rear shock strut
(near the middle) you will see three vertical holes (see fig.
82). Place the body mounts on the strut so that the small
locatorpinonthemountfitsintothebottomholeoftheshock
strut and the body mount is facing up. This side will now be
thebackoftheshockstrut.Threadthe#6924screwsthrough
the center holes from the front side as shown in fig. 84. Go
ahead and attach the second mount on the other side of the
shock strut.
Fig. 82
#6285
4-40 x 1/4
steel #6924
4-40 x 3/8
Fig. 83
Fig. 84
❏ Figs. 85 & 86 From bag #7-4 remove two #6917
4-40 x 3/8" BHSScrews. We want to mount the #7352 rear
shockstruttothebackofthe#7322rearbulkhead.Ifyoulook
atfig.85youwillseetwoholesatthebottomoftheshockstrut
and near the middle of the rear bulkhead. You will also see
twomore mounting holesatthe top ofthe "V" shaped endof
therearbulkheadbuttwojustinsideandundertherearbody
mountsontherearshockstrut.Placetheshockstrutoverthe
rearbulkhead so thefour holes indicatedon the strut lineup
withthefourmountingholesontherearbulkhead.Fastenthe
blackfiberglassshockstruttotherearbulkheadasshownin
fig. 86, using the two #6917 BHSScrews through the upper
mountingholes.Thesearetheonesjustbelowtherearbody
mounts.
Fig. 85