Associated Electrics rc10b5 User manual

2
:: Introduction
:: KIT Features
:: Additional
:: Other Helpful Items
Associated Electrics, Inc.
26021 Commercentre Dr.
Lake Forest, CA 92630
http://www.TeamAssociated.com · http://www.RC10.com · http://twitter.com/Team_Associated · http://bit.ly/AEonFacebook
Customer Service
Tel: [phone]
Fax: [phone]
Thank you for purchasing this Team Associated product. This assembly manual contains instructions and tips for building and
maintaining your new RC10B5 Team Kit. Please take a moment to read through this manual to help familiarize yourself with these
steps.
We are continually changing and improving our designs; therefore, actual parts may appear slightly different than in the
illustrations. New parts will be noted on supplementary sheets located in the appropriate parts bags. Check each bag for these
sheets before you start to build.
Features in the RC10B5 Team Kit:
• Narrowed composite tub chassis with centralized mass and optimized motor position for improved handling and balance
• Chassis fits R.O.A.R. approved 2S saddle packs and 2S short packs using optional foam insert
• V2 12mm “Big Bore” threaded aluminum shocks with 3mm shock shafts and updated O-rings for improved smoothness
• VTS (Variable Torque multi-plate Slipper) with 3 drive surfaces and high-resolution spring
• New transmission has stronger gears, precision ball bearings, and a 14 carbide ball differential for increased life and torque
capacity
• Adjustable front suspension mount angle (kick-up) options of 25˚ and 30˚
• New front suspension features heavy duty steering and caster blocks, while the insert system allows for easy caster and trailing
axle adjustments
• One piece front axle/hex adapter and larger front wheel bearing for added durability
• Updated full bearing steering system with horizontal ball studs for finer Ackermann adjustments
• Heavy-duty ball cups and ball studs allow for maximum suspension travel while reducing binding and friction
• Rear hubs feature larger bearings as well as the quick and easy insert system to adjust camber link position and rear toe-in.
• B5 clear body and wing included
Your new B5 Team Kit comes unassembled
and requires the following items for completion
(refer to catalog section for suggestions):
• R/C two channel surface frequency radio system
• AA-size batteries for transmitter (#302 alkaline)
• Electronic Speed Control, ESC (#29140, #29143)
• Steering servo (#29166, #29167) • R/C electric motor
• Pinion gear, size determined by type/wind of motor
• Battery charger (#604 LiPo compatible charger)
• 2 cell LiPo battery pack
(#314 square, #310 Saddle Pack, #602 Shorty)
• Calipers or a precision ruler • Needle nose pliers
• Lexan specific spray paint
• Reamer / hole punch
• Tire glue (#1597)
• Thread locking compound (#1596)
• Tires and Inserts, Fronts and Rears
Tools included:
• Allen wrenches 1.5mm, 2.0mm
• #1113 12mm Shock Tool
• Multi-wrench
• Silicone Shock Fluid (Refer to catalog for complete listings)
• Body Scissors (AE Part # 1737) • Reamer / Hole Punch • Wire Cutters / Hobby Knife • Soldering Iron
• 8 Piece Hex Driver Set (AE Part # 1655)• Needle Nose Pliers • Multi Tool (AE Part #7494)
• 7mm Nut Driver • Calipers or a Precision Ruler • Green Slime shock lube (AE Part # 1105)

3
:: Table of Contents
:: Notes
There is a 1:1 hardware foldout page in the back
of the manual. To check the size of a part, line
up your hardare with the correct drawing until
you find the exact size. Each part in the foldout
has a number assigned to it for ordering
replacement parts.
This symbol indicates a special
note or instruction in the manual.
This symbol indicates a Racers Tip.
1................... Cover
2................... Introduction
3................... Table of Contents
4................... Front Top Plate and
Steering Build
(Bag A-AA)
5................... Front Arms and Uprights Build
(Bag B)
6 - 7..............Shock Towers and Rear
Chassis Brace Build
(Bag C)
7 - 8............. Differential Build
(Bag D-DD)
8 - 9............. Gearbox Build
(Bag E)
9 - 10.......... Slipper Build
(Bag F-FF)
11................. Rear Hub and CVA Build
(Bag G)
12................ Turnbuckles Build
(Bag H-HH)
13 - 14........Shocks Build
(Bag I-II)
14 - 16........Electronics Build
(Bag J)
16 - 17.........Wheels, Tires, and Body Build
(Bag K)
18 - 20....... Tuning Tips
21 - 29.......Catalog
30................Notes / Contact Info
31................ Setup Sheet “Kit Setup”
32................1:1 Hardware “Fold Out”
33................Setup Sheet “Blank”
34................Back Cover
Associated Electrics, Inc.
26021 Commercentre Dr.
Lake Forest, CA 92630
http://www.TeamAssociated.com · http://www.RC10.com · http://twitter.com/Team_Associated · http://bit.ly/AEonFacebook
Customer Service
Tel: [phone]
Fax: [phone]
!
12/13

:: Front Top Plate and Steering Build - Bag A - AA - Step 2
:: Front Top Plate and Steering Build - Bag A - AA - Step 3
4
:: Front Top Plate and Steering Build - Bag A - AA - Step 1
Do not overtighten steering bolts. Make sure
there is free movement in the steering rack.
91475
3 x 7 x 3
Ball Bearing
91391
Steering
Rack
x4
x2
x2
x2
x2
x2
91048
Heavy-duty
Ballstud,
8mm
25204
M3 x 16mm
FHCS
91364
Bulkhead
(25 °)
25202
M3 x 10mm
FHCS
5407
Red
O-Ring
31286
FT Ballstud
Washer,
aluminum
(2mm, blue)
There are two
bulkheads included
(25 °, 30 °). 25 °is
the standard one
used.
!
!
91391
Steering
Bellcrank
Brace
91360
RC10B5
Chassis
91391
Steering
Bellcrank
Brace
91475
3 x 7 x 3
Ball Bearing
x4
x2
x2
25189
M3 x 22mm
BHCS
91362
B5 Top
Plate
89202
M3 x 12mm
BHCS
91047
Heavy-duty
Ballstud,
6mm
Note orientation
of steering rack.
!
Note orientation
of the brace.
!

5
:: Front Arms and Uprights Build - Bag B - Step 1
Build 2 (1 left, 1 right)
Trailing Axle Inserts
Build 2 (1 left, 1 right)
x2
91049
Heavy-duty
Ballstud,
10mm
31530
M3 x 5mm
BHCS
25215
M3 Locknut,
black
25215
M3 Locknut,
black
25237
5 x 10 x 4
Bearing
91406
Front
Axles
4670
M3 x 8mm
Set Screw
(not included in kit)
91400
Caster
Block Insert
(5°)
91407
Front Axle
Crush Tube
91047
Heavy-duty
Ballstud,
6mm
There are two
caster block inserts
included (0°, 5 °). 5 °is the
standard one used.
!
91404
Steering
Block Insert
(2-4)
91404
Steering
Block
91400
Caster
Block
31520
M2.5 x 6mm
BHCS
(not included in kit)
x2
There are multiple options for the trailing
axle inserts. 4 is the stock setup.
Make sure the arrow is pointing forward
for your desired selection.
Also make sure both the right and left
sides are on the same setting.
You can install an
optional #4670 set
screw to better hold
the caster block inserts
and hinge pin.
You can install an
optional #31520
screw to use as a
steering stop setting.
!
:: Front Arms and Uprights Build - Bag B - Step 3
:: Front Arms and Uprights Build - Bag B - Step 2
Build 2 (1 left, 1 right) Build 2 (1 left, 1 right)
x2
x2
89202
M3 x 12mm
BHCS
31510
M2 x 4mm
BHCS
91400
Caster Block
Spacer
91402
Caster
Block
Bushing
91394
Hinge Pin
(front, outer)
91398
Front Arms
x2
2
4

6
:: Shock Towers and Rear Chassis Brace Build - Bag C - Step 3
91412
Rear
Arms
31521
M2.5 x 8mm
BHCS
25187
M3 x 14mm
BHCS
91379
Chassis
Plate
91382
Arm Mount,
C (3+2)
91382
Arm Mount,
D
x2
x2 91394
Hinge Pin
(rear, Inner)
:: Shock Towers and Rear Chassis Brace Build - Bag C - Step 2
89204
M3 x 24mm
BHCS
89202
M3 x 12mm
BHCS
91477
M3 Nut
(black)
91373
Front Shock
Tower
91049
Heavy-duty
Ballstud, 10mm
x2
x4
x2
x2
31286
FT Ballstud
Washer,
aluminum
(2mm, blue)
:: Shock Towers and Rear Chassis Brace Build - Bag C - Step 1
25204
M3 x 16mm
FHCS
91410
Front
Bumper
91394
Hinge Pin
(front, Inner)
91371
Front Hinge
Pin Brace
31521
M2.5 x 8mm
BHCS
x2 x2

7
:: Differential Build - Bag D - DD - Step 1
6581
3/32 carbide
diff balls
91419
Diff Gear,
52T
7666
Diff Drive
Ring
7666
Diff Drive
Ring
x14
#6591
diff lube
#6591
diff lube
#6591
diff lube
:: Shock Towers and Rear Chassis Brace Build - Bag C - Step 5
89204
M3 x 24mm
BHCS
x2 25211
M3 x 10mm
BHCS
25187
M3 x 14mm
BHCS
x2
x2
91375
Rear Shock
Tower
91433
Rear Body
Mount
91477
M3 Nut
(black)
25201
M3 x 8mm
FHCS
x2
:: Shock Towers and Rear Chassis Brace Build - Bag C - Step 4
25203
M3 x 12mm
FHCS
91049
Heavy-duty
Ballstud, 10mm
89208
M3 x 14mm
FHCS
x2
x2
x2
91377
Chassis
Brace
x2
31286
FT Ballstud
Washer,
aluminum
(2mm, blue)
25211
M3 x 10mm
BHCS
x2
91420
Ball Diff
Outdrive
91420
Ball Diff
Outdrive

8
:: Gearbox Build - Bag E - Step 1
25238
6 x 12 x 4,
Bearing
25237
5 x 10 x 4,
Bearing
91425
Top Shaft
91426
Top Shaft
Spacer
25616
10 x 15 x 4,
Bearing
91424
Gearbox
(right & left)
91429
Idler Gear
91011
4x4 Idler
Gear Shaft
x2
x2
x2
:: Differential Build - Bag D - DD - Step 3
As you tighten the diff bolt, you will notice the T-nut ears moving
closer to the bottom of the outdrive slot. This compresses the
spring behind the T-nut. The spring should be completely
compressed at the same time the T-nut reaches the end of the
slot. Caution! Pay close attention to the feeling when the spring
is completely compressed. Do not overtighten the bolt. When
you feel the spring completely compressed, loosen the diff bolt
1/8” of a turn. Your diff should now operate smoothly with
resistance as the outdrives move in opposite directions.
After you have driven the car once, re-check the diff setting.
6575
Diff
cover
6575
Locking
t-nut
6582
Diff
thrust
spring
Compress
spring first.
!
:: Differential Build - Bag D - DD - Step 2
#6588
black grease
6573
Diff thrust
washer
6574
5/64 diff
thrust
balls
6573
Diff thrust
bolt
x2
x6
31400
5 x 8mm,
Bearing
x2

9
:: Slipper Build - Bag F - FF - Step 1
x2
7485
FT V2
Slipper Hub
91177
VTS Slipper
Pads
9603
Slipper
Pad
9651
81T 48P
Spur Gear
91176
VTS Slipper
Housing
91178
VTS Slipper
Plate
91179
VTS Slipper
Hub, outer
25202
M3 x 10mm
FHCS
x3
91428
Motor Plate,
blue
:: Gearbox Build - Bag E - Step 3
91478
M3 x 30mm
BHCS
91433
Wing
Mounts
31532
M3 x 8mm
BHCS
91432
Motor
Guard
x2
x2
:: Gearbox Build - Bag E - Step 2
Install the Diff with
the head of the
Diff Thrust Bolt
(#6573) facing the
same side as the
spur gear.
Add a drop of Diff
Lube (#6591) to
the teeth of the diff
gear, idler gear, and
top shaft.
!
!
(#6573) facing the
the teeth of the diff
gear, idler gear, and
89203
M3 x 16mm
BHCS
x5
#6591
diff lube
There’s also a72T
48P spur gear
(#9649)
included for stock
motor use!
!
91428
Motor Plate,
blue
There’s also a72T
48P spur gear
(#9649)
included for stock
motor use!
!
You can add black
grease (#6588) to the
screw threads to ease
screw installation.

10
:: Slipper Build - Bag F - FF - Step 4
25204
M3 x 16mm
FHCS
25211
M3 x 10mm
BHCS
x2
x2
:: Slipper Build - Bag F - FF - Step 3
25203
M3 x 12mm
FHCS
x2
:: Slipper Build - Bag F - FF - Step 2
Set nut
flush with
top shaft.
See page 18 for gear
mesh, and slipper clutch
setting instructions!
!
!
9739
Slipper
Spring
91148
M4 Locknut,
with flange
and knurl
Set nut
flush with
top shaft.
!
91423
Slipper
Spring
Adapter

11
:: Rear Hub and CVA Build - Bag G - Step 3
91414
Rear Hub
Spacer
91394
Hinge Pin
(rear, outer)
4670
M3 x 8mm
Set Screw
(not included in kit)
31510
M2 x 4mm
BHCS
x2
x2
Build x2 (right and left side)Build x2 (right and left side)
:: Rear Hub and CVA Build - Bag G - Step 2
91436
CVA Wheel
Hex Pin
91441
Wheel
Hex (rear)
91438
CVA
Pin
Build x2 (right and left side) Build x2 (right and left side)
:: Rear Hub and CVA Build - Bag G - Step 1
Build x2 (right and left side)
#6588
black grease
91476
6 x 13 x 5
Bearing
25616
10 x 15 x 4
Bearing
91047
Heavy-duty
Ballstud, 6mm
91414
Rear Hub
Insert
(0°)
91414
Rear Hub
Link Insert
(A)
91414
Rear Hub
91438
CVA
Coupler
91439
CVA Bone
91437
CVA Axle
91416
Rear Hub
Link Nut
(A)
There are multiple
optional inserts
for the Rear Hub
Insert (0°, 0.5 °,1 °).
0°is the standard
insert used.
!
!
You can install optional
#4670 set screws to
better hold the rear
hub inserts and
hinge pin.
Rear Hub Link Setting:
Up
Up
Down
Down
A
B
C
B
B
A
A

12
:: Turnbuckles Build - Bag H - HH - Step 3
Build x2 (right and left side)
Rear Camber Turnbuckle
23.30mm
91453
HD Ball Cup
(small)
91453
HD Ball Cup
(small)
6263
Turnbuckle,
2.06”
HD Ball Cup
:: Turnbuckles Build - Bag H - HH - Step 2
Build x2 (right and left side)
Front Camber Turnbuckle
23.85mm
91453
HD Ball Cup
(small)
91453
HD Ball Cup
(small)
6263
Turnbuckle,
2.06”
:: Turnbuckles Build - Bag H - HH - Step 1
91453
HD Ball Cup
(small)
91453
HD Ball Cup
(right)
6263
Turnbuckle,
2.06”
27.50mm
Steering Turnbuckle
Build x2 (right and left side)
Racers Tip:
Use black grease
(#6588) on the
threads of the
turnbuckles for
easier ball cup
installation!
Racers Tip:
Use black grease
(#6588) on the
threads of the
turnbuckles for
easier ball cup
installation!
Racers Tip:
Use black grease
(#6588) on the
threads of the
turnbuckles for
easier ball cup
installation!
Orient the notch
to the left throughout the
car. It indicates which end
has the left hand threads!
!
Orient the notch
to the left throughout the
car. It indicates which end
has the left hand threads!
!
Orient the notch
to the left throughout the
car. It indicates which end
has the left hand threads!
!
Install the ballstuds on
curved side of the ballcup!
!
Install the ballstuds on
curved side of the ballcup!
!
Install the ballstuds on
curved side of the ballcup!
!

13
:: Shocks Build - Bag I - II - Step 3
Step 9-10Step 8Step 6-7Step 4-5
Front Shock: 30 wt
Rear Shock: 30 wt
Step 2-3
Shock Bleeding Steps:
1. Before assembly, get each bleed
screw and thread it 1-2 turns into
the shock cap. This will make it easier
when you are bleeding your shocks.
2. Pull shock shaft down.
3. Fill shock body 3/4 full with silicone
shock fluid.
4. Slowly move the shock shaft up and
down to remove air from under the
piston.
5. Wait for bubbles to come to surface.
6. Fill shock body to top with silicone
shock fluid.
7. Place a drop of oil in the cap and on
cap threads.
8. Install cap (without bleed screw) and
tighten completely.
9. Slowly compress shaft all the way to
bleed excess silicone shock fluid out
the hole in the cap (use rag around-
shock to catch excess fluid).
10. Install M2x4mm button head screw
until snug while shaft is fully com-
pressed.
Shock oil
#5422
Shock oil
#5422
31510
M2 x 4mm
BHCS
:: Shocks Build - Bag I - II - Step 2
#1105
green slime
91448
Shock
eyelet
91448
Shock
Pivot Ball
91480
12x23mm V2
Shock Bodies
(front)
91482
12x31mm V2
Shock Bodies
(rear)
91491
V2 Shock
Hat Bushing
91491
V2 Shock
Spacer
5407
O-Ring
31327
VCS3 Shock
Bottom Cap
31327
VCS3 Shock
Bottom Cap
O-Ring
91491
12mm
Shock Cap
O-Ring
x2
x2
#1105
green slime
Lightly rub shock oil
on the o-ring before
installation!
Racers Tip:
Coating the o-rings
with green slime
(#1105) helps seal
& reduce o-ring
swell! Green slime
not included in kit!
:: Shocks Build - Bag I - II - Step 1
91308
12mm
Shock Piston
(1.6 front)
(1.7 rear)
91488
3 x 21
Shock Shaft
(front)
91489
3 x 27.5
Shock Shaft
(rear)
6299
1/8 E-Clip
6299
1/8 E-Clip
4187
Nylon Spacer,
(.030)
Racers Tip:
Use a marker over the
numbers on the pistons to
make them easily visible!
Front:
3 spacers
Rear:
2 spacers
!

14
:: Shocks Build - Bag I - II - Step 5
:: Electronics Build - Bag J - Step 1
Use outside
hole in
front arm!
!
7337
Gold
Washer
91443
Servo
Mount
91455
Servo
Spacers
91455
Steering
Link
31532
M3 x 8mm
BHCS
89009
Servo Horn
Ring
91047
Heavy-duty
Ballstud, 6mm
9180
Servo
Horn
x4
x2
x2
x4
Servo not
included!
Servo screw
not included!
Use inside
hole in
rear arm!
!
25612
M3 Locknut,
with flange
(black)
25612
M3 Locknut,
with flange
(black)
89202
M3 x 12mm
BHCS
91445
Shock
Bushing
91445
Shock
Bushing
25189
M3 x 22mm
BHCS
Build x2 (right and left side) Build x2 (right and left side)
31286
FT Ballstud
Washer,
aluminum
(1mm, blue)
:: Shocks Build - Bag I - II - Step 4
91304
12mm
threaded
collar
91304
12mm
threaded
collar
o-ring
x4
x4
91310
12mm shock
spring cup
(5mm offset)
91327
12mm front
spring, Green
(3.15lb)
91337
12mm rear
spring, white
(2.10lb)
Front:
4mm
Rear:
5.5mm
Build x2 front and x2 rear shocks
Racers Tip:
Use your finger to rub
shock oil on the o-ring for
smoother adjustment!
A - Airtronics
F - Futaba
H - Hitec
J - JR
Printed here
Align the servo
horn 90 degrees
!

15
:: Electronics Build - Bag J - Step 3
:: Electronics Build - Bag J - Step 4
Receiver not
included!
Receiver not
included!
ESC not included!
Pinion / Setscrew
not included!
See page 18 for
gear mesh setting
instructions!
!
91089
Belt Cover
Cap
91435
Gear
Cover
(black)
31530
M3 x 5mm
BHCS
6727
Servo Tape
x2
:: Electronics Build - Bag J - Step 2
Motor not included!
31532
M3 x 8mm
BHCS
31532
M3 x 8mm
BHCS
x2
x2
x2
89218
3 x 8mm
Washer
Use included
optional
Receiver mount
if ESC clearance
is needed
!
Receiver not
included!
91380
Receiver
Mount
31532
M3 x 8mm
BHCS
x2
6727
Servo Tape

16
:: Electronics Build - Bag J - Step 6
:: Wheels / Tires and Body - Bag K - Step 1
Tires / Inserts
not included!
Tires / Inserts
not included!
#1597
ca glue
#1597
ca glue
x2
9695
Buggy Rear
Wheel Hex,
White
9690
Buggy Front
Wheel Hex,
White
x2
Carefully apply ca glue
(tire adhesive) to the tire
bead on both sides. Do
one side at a time, allow it
to dry before gluing the
other side!
CA glue not included!
!
Build x2 Build x2
:: Electronics Build - Bag J - Step 5
4689
M3 x 16mm
Set Screw
x2
Battery
not included!
Batteries
not included!
91458
Battery Strap
Thumb Wheel
91458
Battery Strap
Thumb Wheel
O-Ring
91456
Battery
Strap
x2
x2
91459
Single
Battery
Spacer
91459
Battery
Spacer
91459
Battery
Spacer
There are two
options for
mounting your
antenna.
!
6338
Antenna
Tube & Cap
25225
M3 x 3mm
Set Screw

17
:: Wheels / Tires and Body - Bag K - Step 3
:: Wheels / Tires and Body - Bag K - Step 4
Painting Tips:
Your B5 Team Kit comes with a clear polycarbonate
body. You will need to prep the body before you can
paint it. Wash the inside thoroughly with warm water
and liquid detergent. Dry the body using a clean, soft,
lint-free cloth. Use the supplied window masks to
cover the windows from the INSIDE of the body
(RC cars get painted from the inside). Using high
quality masking tape, apply tape to the inside of the
body to create a design. Spray (use either rattle can
or airbrush) the paint on the inside of the body
(prefferably dark colors first, lighter colors last).
NOTE: ONLY use paint that is recommended for use
with (polycarbonate) plastics. If you do not, you can
destroy the plastic body!!!!.
After paint has completely dried, cut the body along
the trim lines. Make sure to drill or use a body reamer
to make the holes for the body mounts and antenna!
Racers Tip:
Instead of using the included body clips
(#21173), you can use hook and loop tape
on the inside of the body, and the sides of
the chassis to keep your body in place!
21173
Small
Body Clips
91470
Clear
Body, B5
91433
Wing Angle
Shim
91471
Clear Wing,
B5
x2
21173
Small
Body Clips
x2
:: Wheels / Tires and Body - Bag K - Step 2
Build 2 (1 left, 1 right) Build 2 (1 left, 1 right)
91148
M4 Locknut,
with flange
and knurl
91148
M4 Locknut,
with flange
and knurl

18
:: Tuning Tips
Tips for Beginners:
Before making any changes to the standard setup, make sure you can get around the track without crashing.
Changes to your vehicle will not be beneficial if you can’t stay on the track. Your goal is consistent laps.
Once you can get around the track consistently, start tuning your vehicle. Make only ONE adjustment at a time, testing
it before making another change. If the result of your adjustment is a faster lap, mark the change on the included setup
sheet (make adddtional copies of the sheet before writing on it). If your adjustment results in a slower lap, revert back
to the previous setup and try another change.
When you are satisfied with your vehicle, fill in the setup sheet thoroughly and file it away. Use this as a guide for future
track days or conditions. Peridicaly check all moving suspension parts. Suspension components must be kept clean
and move freely without binding to prevent poor and/or inconsistent handling.
Slipper Clutch:
The assembly instructions give you a base setting for your clutch. Turn the nut on the shaft so that the end of the top
shaft is even with the outside of the nut. At the track, tighten or loosen the nut in 1/8 turn increments until you hear
a faint slipping sound for 1-2 feet on takeoffs. Another popular way to set the clutch is to hold both rear tires firmly in
place and apply short bursts of throttle. If the clutch is properly set, the front tires should lift slightly up off the surface.
Ride Height:
Ride height is the distance from the ground to the bottom of the chassis.
The standard front ride height setting is with the front arms level
(reffered to as “arms level”) or 24mm (Ride Height Gauge #1449).
Check the ride height by lifting up the entire car about 8-12 inches off the
bench and drop it. After the suspension “settles” into place, measure
ride height (Ride Height Gauge #1449). Raise or lower the shock collars
as necessary so that the left & right arms appear to be level.
The rear ride height setting you should use most often is with the
outdrive, driveshaft, and axles all on the same imaginary horizontal line
(reffered to as “bones level”) or 24mm (Ride Height Gauge#1449).
Check the ride height by lifting up the entire car about 8-12 inches off the
bench and drop it. After the suspension “settles” into place, measure
ride height (Ride Height Gauge #1449). Raise or lower the shock collars
as necessary so that the left & right driveshafts appear to be level.
*Front arms should
be in a straight line
when ride height is
set at “arms level”
!
*CVA bones should
be in a straight line
when ride height is
set at “CVA bones
level”
!
Motor Gearing:
Proper motor gearing will result in maximum performance and run time while reducing the chance of overheating and
premature motor failure. The gear ratio chart lists recommended starting gear ratios for the most widely used
motor types. Gear ratios will vary depending upon motor brand, wind, and electronic speed control. Consult your
motor and electronic speed control manufacturers for more information.
Team Associated is not responsible for motor damage due to improper gearing.
Set The Gear Mesh:
You should be able to rock the spur gear back and forth in the teeth of the pinion gear without making the pinion gear
move. If the spur gear mesh is tight, then loosen the #31532 screws and move the motor away, then try again.
A gear mesh that is too tight or too loose will reduce power and damage the gear teeth.
* These gearings are for use with advanced timing speed control settings!
23
31
22
30
24
23
22
21
21
21
21
19
18
Pinion
78
69
81
75
81
81
81
81
81
81
81
81
81
Spur
8.82:1
5.79:1
9.57:1
6.50:1
8.78:1
9.15:1
9.57:1
10.03:1
10.03:1
10.03:1
10.03:1
11.08:1
11.70:1
Final Drive Ratio
17.5 Reedy Sonic Brushless *
17.5 Reedy Sonic Brushless
13.5 Reedy Sonic Brushless *
13.5 Reedy Sonic Brushless
10.5 Reedy Sonic Brushless
9.5 Reedy Sonic Brushless
8.5 Reedy Sonic Brushless
7.5 Reedy Sonic Brushless
6.5 Reedy Sonic Brushless
3300kV Brushless
3900kV Brushless
4900kV Brushless
6100kV Brushless
Motor
B5 Gear Ratio Chart (Internal Gear Ratio 2.60:1)

19
:: Tuning Tips (cont.)
Caster:
Caster describes the angle of the kingpin as it leans toward the rear of the vehicle. Positive caster means the kingpin
leans rearward at the top. The B5 includes two inserts to adjust caster angle at the caster block, 0°and +5°. The total
caster angle is the sum of the kick-up angle and the caster block angle. Standard total caster angle for the B5 is 30°,
with 25°kick-up and 5°caster block angle. For less entry steering and more exit steering, try 0°caster block angle.
Rear Camber:
Camber describes the angle at which the tire and wheel rides when looked at from the back. Negative camber means
that the tire leans inward at the top. A good starting camber setting is -1°. Adding a small amount of positive camber,
where the top of the tire is leaning out, will tend to improve straight-line acceleration on loose tracks.
Optional #1719 camber gauge can be used to more accurately set camber.
Front Camber Links:
Changing the length of the camber link is considered a bigger step than
adjusting the ball end height on the tower. Shortening the camber link
(or lowering the ball end) will give the front end less roll and quicken steering
response. Lengthening the camber link (or raising the ball end) will give the
front more roll and slower steering response. Longer camber links are
typically used on high grip tracks and shorter links tend to work better on
medium-grip loose tracks.
*Raise or lower the
ball end by adding
or subtracting
washers here
!
Rear Camber Link:
Changing the length of the camber link is considered a bigger step than adjusting
the ball end height on the rear chassis brace. Shortening the camber link
(or lowering the ball end) will give the rear end less roll and the car will tend to
accelerate or “square up” better. Lengthening the camber link (or raising the ball
end) will give the rear more roll and more cornering grip. Longer camber links are
typically used on high grip tracks, while shorter links tend to work better on
medium grip loose tracks. The kit setting is the best compromise of cornering grip
and acceleration.
*Raise or lower
the ball end by
adding or
subtracting
washers here
!
Wheelbase Adjustment:
You have three options for rear hub spacing, Forward, Middle, & Back.
The kit setting of Middle is the most neutral, and will be used most often.
For improved handling in bumps or rhythm sections, try moving the hubs to the
Back position. This can also make the car handle better in 180° turns.
*Spacers to the rear
will place hubs for-
ward, shortening
the wheelbase
!
Front Camber:
Camber describes the angle at which the tire and wheel rides when
looked at from the front. Negative camber means that the tire leans
inward at the top. A good starting camber setting is -1°. Positive camber,
where the top of the tire is leaning out, is not recommended.
Optional #1719 camber gauge can be used to more accurately set camber.
*Testing camber
with camber gauge
!
Kickup:
Kickup is the angle the front suspension arm mounts at where the front of the arm is higher than the rear.
The standard kickup angle for the B5 is 25°, and is most common. If more corner entry steering is desired, try the
included 30° front bulkhead. It is important to adjust the bumpsteer to match the kickup angle adjustment.
Refer to the chart below for some common settings:
Kickup
Angle
25° 1mm 0mm
30° 3mm 2mm 1mm
Less Agressive
Bumpsteer Shims
Standard
Bumpsteer Shims
More Agressive
Bumpsteer Shims
N/A

20
:: Tuning Tips
Ackermann:
Ackermann is the angle difference between the front wheels when they are turned to steer the car. For minimal tire
slip, it is standard for the inside wheel to steer to a greater angle than the outside wheel. The B5 allows ackermann
adjustments by changing the washer thickness used behind the steering rack ballstuds. The kit setup uses 2mm wash-
ers and is most common for racing conditions. If corner entry steering is too aggressive, try increasing the ackermann
by removing shims from behind the steering rack ballstuds. Increasing the ackermann will increase the angle difference
of the front wheels when steered, resulting in a more stable car on corner entry.
Anti-Roll Bars:
The optional #91468 rear anti-roll bar kit (also called the “swaybar”) allows you to add roll resistance to the rear end
with minimal effect on handling over bumps and jumps. It is an especially helpful tuning item on high-grip tracks
(try the gold bar). The silver and black anti-roll bars are typically used on medium-grip loose tracks.
Trailing Axle:
Trailing axle is the distance from the king pin to the axle that “trails” behind the pin. The B5 includes inserts to allow
adjustments for trailing axle to three positions: 4mm (standard), 3mm, and 2mm. The standard setup uses 4mm
trailing axle for the most stable handling. For more corner entry steering, try the 3mm trailing axle option.
It is important to adjust the ackermann and wheelbase settings to match the trailing axle adjustment. refer to the
chart below for some common settings:
Trailing Axle
Position
4mm
1mm
2mm
3mm
2mm
2mm
3mm
1mm
0mm
0mm 1mm (middle)
N/A 0mm (back)
1mm 2mm (forward)
# of Shims
on Rack for
Less Ackermann
# of Shims
on Rack for
Std. Ackermann
# of Shims
on Rack for
More Ackermann
Rear Caster Block
Wheelbase Shim