Calandra Racing Concepts Carpet Knofe Xti User manual

Carpet Knife Xti
Assembly Manual
and Parts list
Calandra Racing Concepts, Inc.
6785 Martin Street ~ Rome, NY U.S.A. 13440
Tel + Fax [phone]
www.teamcrc.com ~ [email protected]
CRC “Xti” 1:12th
competition kit
for 1s lipo cells
2012 IFMAR
World A-Finalist!
2 cars!
Part #3210
True “inline” design.
Multiple cell positions;
transverse and inline.
(w/ optional transverse kit)
Features CRC Slider
rear pods! No inserts,
no set positions. Just
place desired ride
shim under the car and
drop the axle!
Xti Features
** CRC Encore bladder shock.
** Servo and speedo mounted centerline.
** “True inline” battery placement w/ full size 1s battery.
** CRC molded spur gear w/ 3/32 diff balls. Less rotating weight!
** Aerospace grade 100% pure carbon fiber chassis and structure parts.
** multiple battery placement, transverse pack (w/optional kit) and inline.
** Proven Pro-Strut front end with symmetrical components + optional roll centers
** Revolutionary CRC “Slider” rear pod, no inserts, adjusters or detent axle positions.
New
NEW!
Xti Features
** CRC Encore bladder shock.
** Servo and speedo mounted centerline.
** “True inline” battery placement w/ full size 1s battery.
** CRC molded spur gear w/ 3/32 diff balls. Less rotating weight!
** Aerospace grade 100% pure carbon fiber chassis and structure parts.
** Proven Pro-Strut front end with symmetrical components + optional roll centers
** Revolutionary CRC “Slider” rear pod, no inserts, adjusters or detent axle positions.NEW!
** multiple battery placement, transverse pack (w/optional kit) and inline.New
Calandra Racing Concepts
6785 Martin Street ~ Rome, NY 13440 ~ Tel [phone] ~ Fax [phone] ~ www.teamcrc.com [email protected]
tires, servo + servo saver
not included. Shown below;
car w/ optional transverse kit.
8600734 03210
™

Center Pivot Base
2-56 Button Head
Alum Pivot ball
4-40 Thin Hex Nut
4-40 x ½” FH Steel Washer
Assemble the Molded Center Pivot assembly as shown. Tighten the 2-56
button head screws [4] enough to remove any up and down play, be sure the
flanged pivot ball [2] pivots freely.
*Note - Sometimes it is helpful to over-tighten the screws, then work
the ball around by hand, and then loosen the screws so the ball floats around
very free. Do not over-tighten the screws too much or you could warp the
pivot socket.
slightly
Red Locknut
1 - Place the 4-40 x ½” screws [5] through the graphite chassis [6] in
the holes shown. Tighten a 4-40 thin hex nut [7] down fairly tight.
2 - Then, after both thin hex nuts are tight on the 2 mounting screws,
drop the assembled center pivot over the screws. The assembly should
slide down over the hex nuts, not sit on top of them.
3 - Drop a washer [8] over each screw above the center pivot
assembly.
4 - Thread on the 4-40 red locknuts [9]. Do not tighten them yet as we
will adjust this in a later step.
Bag 1
Center Pivot
1
12
3
4
4
789
5
9
8
6
5
1
2
4
Center Pivot Cap
3
7
Bag 1
Center Pivot

Bag 2
4-40 x 5/16”
FH steel 4-40 x ½”
FH Steel
Red Low-
Profile Ball
1 - In Bag 2, find the graphite bottom plate
[10]. Secure it to the pivot ball assembly
with the ½” flat head screw [5] and tighten
it with the red locknut [9].
2 - Find the 4 red low profile balls [11].
Secure them as shown with the steel 5/16”
screws [12]. Next, look at the plastic side
links [13] so that when you pop the links
on the balls, the larger hole will be facing
out, and the smaller hole facing the center
of the car.
3 - Insert the 2-56 button head screws [4]
into the side links from the outsides of the
chassis as shown. The screw should
easily slide through the larger outside
hole, and then thread into the smaller
inner hole. Only tighten them enough so
that the links will not pop off the balls.
You want the links to pivot very freely
without any drag.
Be sure the 2 aluminum locknuts on top of the center pivot are slightly loose.
There should be a washer under each alum locknut. Notice that the center pivot
“floats" or moves slightly on the 2 screws. This "floating" allows the links
to "free up". This ensures that the rear bottom plate pivots freely on the links
and center pivot ball. This is a crucial step when setting up the Xti.
Snap the 2 links on the balls as shown above. They should rock freely on
the pivot balls.
Place the chassis/rear bottom plate assembly on a flat surface. No tires and
no diff on the car! A smooth table or desk should do. Be
sure that the rear bottom plate and chassis are in a
straight line, flat against the table, again, no tires on the
car. Lightly “tap” the chassis and rear pod releasing any
tension in the links. Keep the chassis flat on the table for step 4.
Holding the chassis at the hold point “H” by pressing
the chassis down to the table. Slowly tighten the 2 locknuts that
secure the center pivot. For now, just lightly
snug one side then the other.
Pick up the car and check the pivoting action of the
rear lower plate. Rotate the rear plate from side-to-
side. It should move free without binding or "clicking".
If it does not, loosen the pivot locknuts and repeat steps 3+4.
If it rotates smoothly, then set the chassis back on the table and continue
to tighten the locknuts on the center pivot more securely. Do this by again holding
the chassis down to the table at the hold point “H”. Alternating back and forth between
the two lock nuts, fully tighten the lock nuts that hold the center pivot to the chassis.
The handling of the Xti hinges (pun intended!) on the free movement of this rear plate.
Be sure that the rear links and rear plate are free and not binding in any way.
(not the rear pod)
H
H
1.
2.
3.
4.
5. 5
Rotate
Center Pivot
Setting the One-piece links
2
Red
Locknut
9
11
12 52-56 Button Head
4
10
5
9
11
12
13
4

1 - Install the Motor Plate [14] and Left Side Pod Plate [15] using 4 3/16” flat head screws [16] to attach the pod plates to the Graphite Bottom Plate [10].
Keep an eye on these screws during the first few runs of your car. They tend to loosen until they “seat” and then they WILL stay tight.
2 - Insert 4 7/16” button head screws [17] through the Graphite “X” Brace [18] and then through the Ride Height Sliders [19] and then lightly tighten them
into the rear pod plates [14 & 15].
*Note - Although we are using steel screws in this kit, you may opt to use optional aluminum screws in the future. We do NOT recommend using thread
lock in any aluminum to aluminum application. The best way to keep these tight is by keeping a close watch on their tightness after your first few runs. In
time, the screw will naturally “seat” and stay tight.
Bag 3
Rear X-Pod
3
18
14
15
16
17
19
Bag 4
Thread the set screw
in until flush with the
bottom of the holder.
Molded Plastic
Spring Holder
INSERT TWEAK SCREWS IN BRACE ASSEMBLY
1 - Place the Tweak Brace [20] on a smooth, flat table and thread the Tweak set screws [21] into the brace per the illustration. Try to
be careful to thread it in straight and perpendicular.
With the tweak screw threaded through the brace, thread the spring holder [22] onto the tweak screw as shown in the illustration.
The tweak screw should thread in until flush with the bottom of the spring holder. These spring holders do not require super glue to
hold them to the tweak screws, but a small dot can be added as a precaution if you wish.
Tweak Plates
21
22
4-40 x 3/8”
set screw
21
22
20
21
4-40 x 3/16”
Flat Head
16
4-40 x 7/16”
Button Head
16

4
White
Side Spring
½” Plastic
Standoff
ATTACH SPRING TO HOLDER
Push the spring [23] into the groove on the plastic holder [22].
Make sure that the first coil sits into the angled groove. This allows
the spring to sit flat on the bottom plate. If the spring coil is not
properly seated in the groove, the spring will sit on an angle and
make the car difficult to tweak properly.
Bag 4
23
23 25
22
4-40 x 3/8”
Button Head
24
Tweak Plates
Assemble the Tweak Plates
1 - Use the 3/8” button head screws [24] to fasten the plastic standoffs [25] to the
graphite tweak plate [20].
2 - Slide the 1/4” button head screws [26] up through the tweak plate [20] and
tighten a red low-profile ball [11] to the screw as shown in the illustration. Make
sure to use the forward hole on the tweak plate. The body mounts will go in the
rear hole in a later step.
3 - Slide the 1/4” flat head screws [27] up through the chassis and thread into the
plastic standoffs [25].
Make sure spring coil
is seated into groove
on spring holder.
24
25
11
4-40 x 1/4”
Button Head
26
Red Low-
Profile Ball
11
26
4-40 x 1/4”
Flat Head
27
1 - Install the black 2-56 ballstuds [28] into the graphite top plate [29]. These steel balls thread into the
graphite. Be sure to start them straight and square and turn them in slowly so they do not strip or break.
2 - Push the red ballstud [30] through the graphite top plate. Use a red locknut [9] to secure it. Attach the
assembled top plate to the Pod Plates using 3 3/16” button head screws [31].
2-56 Steel
Ballstud - Black
28
Red Alum
4-40 Ballstud
30
Red Locknut
9
27
9
28
30
31
29
4-40 x 3/16”
Button Head
31

5
Bag 5
2-56 set-
screw stud
2-56 Plastic
Ball Cup
Short 4-40 Plastic
Ball Cup (on tree)
.035”
Allen Driver
Delrin Plunger Aluminum Tube
1
4
1 - Use the small .035” allen key [32] to drive the 2-56 set screw stud [33] into the thin plastic ball cup [34].
2 - Leave about 3/16” (half the set screw length) protruding from the ball cup.
3 - Do the same for the short 4-40 ballcup [35]. Use the 4-40 x 5/16” set screw [36] and the slighty larger .050” allen key. Leave
about 1/8” protruding.
4 - Thread the 2 ball cups into their respective tube halves per the diagram. Finger tighten.
Damper Tubes 4-40 x 5/16”
set screw
36
32 33 34
32
33
34
35
38
37
38
37
2
.188 "
3
36
35
.125 "
** Adding the Damper Tubes to the Chassis assembly **
Snap the assembled & lubed damper tubes on the respective points as shown
in the diagram to the right. You will find it easier to snap on the centered,
smaller 2-56 ball studs first, then pop the outer, larger 4-40 ballcups on.
CRC
Tube
Lube
5
39
Completed Tube
5 - Add CRC Tube Lube [39] to each slot on the delrin plunger [37].
Build the tube and be sure it has smooth, damped action.
*** : fill only the slots, not the entire aluminum tube [38]. ***Note

6
Bag 6
Top Deck 4-40 x 1/4”
Button Head
26
4-40 x 1/4”
Flat Head
27
1 - Using the 4-40 x 1/4” flat head screws [27], push
the screws through the chassis [6] and then thread
them into the 3/4” tall hex standoffs [40] as shown in
the diagram.
2 - Insert the 4-40 x 5/16” flat head screw [12] through
the rear most hole of the Top Deck [41] and into the
Red Low-profile Ball [11] as shown in the diagram, and
tighten.
3 - Insert the 4-40 x 1/4” cap head screw [42] through
the forward most hole in the Top Deck and into the
Plastic Antenna mount [43]. Be careful to not over
tighten this screw and strip the antenna mount.
- it is advised to use a dot of super glue
to hold the antenna in the plastic mount.
4 - Last, mount the completed Top Deck Assembly to
the two hex standoffs [40] using the 4-40 x 1/4” button
head screws [26].
*NOTE* small
4-40 x 5/16”
FH steel
12 Red Low-
Profile Ball
11
27
42
26
11
40
12
43 41
*Note* - The picture to the right shows the shock
snapped into place as well. We will be building the
shock in the next step and it will snap into place on the
two ball studs as shown in the picture to the right.

7
Bag 7
Center Shock
1 - Thread the spring adjuster nut [44] onto the shock body [45] as shown. *This needs to be installed first or you will not be able to get it on later after the lower
end of the shock is assembled!*
2 - Insert only 1 of the small o-rings [46] into the lower end of the shock body [45]. Next, install the bottom shock plug [47] and tighten the bottom shock cap [48].
3 - Insert 1 of the small e-clips [49] into the lower groove of the shock shaft [50]. Slide the piston [51] over the shaft until it stops against the e-clip and then
secure it in place with the other e-clip in the end groove. Next, slide the other small o-ring [46] over the shock shaft and up against the piston. This o-ring acts as
a travel limiter.
4 - Put a small dab of the included shock oil on the threads of the shock shaft to lube it and then slide the shock shaft through the bottom end of the shock
carefully so you do not damage the o-ring with the threads on the shock shaft. Pull the shaft all the way through until the piston bottoms out in the shock body.
5 - Wipe off any excess oil from the threads of the shock shaft and then thread on the shorter of the 2 included ballcups [52]. *If you need to hold the shaft with
pliers, be sure to wrap a rag around the shaft first so the pliers do not damage the shaft. If there is any damage to the shaft, the sharp edges will damage theo-
ring and cause the shock to leak.
6 - Now with the shaft still fully extended, hold the shock body upright and fill with the included shock oil. Press the shaft in about half way and then return it to
full extension. Look inside the shock and you will notice small air bubbles in the oil. This is the rest of the air that was trapped below the piston. Allow enough
time for the air bubbles to work their way to the surface and pop.
7 - Once satisfied that all of the air is out of the shock, top off with oil and then insert the shock bladder [53] by laying one side into the oil and then rolling your
finger across the top of the bladder to expel any excess air and/or oil.
8 - Insert the flanged ballcup [54] into the upper shock cap [55] and then tighten this down over the shock bladder, being careful to not knock the bladder off its
seat and allowing air to enter the shock. *Double check that the shock is working smoothly through its range of motion and that you can fully compress the
shock. If it binds up before being fully compressed, then it has too much oil and you will need to crack the top cap loose and expel a very small amount of oil and
re-tighten.
9 - Slide the shock spring [56] over the shock body and keep in place by clicking the spring retainer [57] over the shock shaft and sliding it down over the short
ballcup to keep it in place.
44
52
57
50
46
48
47
56
45
46
49
51
53
54
55
(Lower groove)
(End groove)
10 - Snap the completed shock onto the two ball studs as shown
in the picture on the previous page. The metal shock body should
point toward the front of the car, and the plastic spring retainer
end of the shock should be toward the rear of the car.
Squeeze the ball cups over the ball studs with pliers. Do not push
down on the shock in the center and try to pop both ball cups on
at once or damage to the shock and shock shaft will occur.
CRC Encore Shock

8
2-56 x ½” SH
Delrin
Pivot Ball
CRC Pro-Strut
Front End
2-56 Red
Locknut
1 - Pop the delrin pivot ball [58] into the lower arm [59]. Place the arm on a strong table and push the ball
in with the back of screwdriver handle. Or preferably, you can use CRC’s 4279 Ball Popper Pivot Ball
Tool. Notice the “lip” of the delrin pivot ball is pointing upward. The diagram to the left represents a right
side lower arm. For the left side, flip the second arm over and be sure the pivot ball is installed with the
lip again facing up.
2 - Once the ball is popped in, insert the black 2-56 clamp screw [60] through the hole in the lower arm.
Thread the 2-56 red locknut [61] onto the black screw. Tighten the screw slowly, continuously checking
the pivot ball. When it begins to bind, back the 2-56 screw off a bit. The ball should be free to pivot with
just a bit of drag. There is no need to have this ball super loose, a slight drag will be just the right amount
of clamping force.
Check this fit after a few runs as the ball will wear and require additional clamping force.
Lip
1 - Install the upper A-arm mount [62] with the amount of Dynamic Caster desired. The options are 0, 5
and 10 degrees. The part shown to the right is the 5 degree version and is a good starting point. The 10
will angle down more toward the front of the car with the 0 being parallel to the chassis. The general
thought is the more Dynamic Caster, the more steering the car will have at corner entry.
2 - Locate the 4-40 x 3/8” flat head screws [63] and insert them through the lower arm [59], and then
thread the screw into the upper A-arm mount [62]. Be sure NOT to over tighten.
58
58
59
60
60
61
61
Bag F
Hinge Pin Upper Cap
Clear Caster
Washer
66
65
67
1 - Break the mold tree from the upper A-arm [64]. You can clean up the mold gates with a hobby
knife or rotary tool.
2 - Locate the upper arm hinge pin [65] and slide it into one half of the upper arm. Locate 3 small
clear plastic caster washers [66]. Push the hinge pin through the 3 washers. Then continue to
push the hinge pin all the way into the upper arm.
If the fit of the upper arm on the hinge pin is tight, you will want to loosen the fit of the hinge pin in
the upper arm, not in the arm mount (pictured below). The upper clamp and arm mount need to
squeeze the pin so it doesn’t fall out. If the fit is tight and the arm doesn’t pivot freely, then work on
the fit with just the upper arm and hinge pin. Set the caster washers aside so you don’t lose or
damage them. This fit can be freed up by heating the hinge pin with a heat gun or hair dryer, or
you can clamp the hinge pin into a rotary tool and spin the pin in the plastic as if it were a drill bit.
The heat created will set the plastic to the shape of the pin without removing material and making
too much play in the arm.
64
65
62
67 3 - Now, install the arm/pin/washer assembly onto the upper arm mount [62]. Put the hinge pin in
the channel. At this point you can set your starting caster setting by moving these washers
forward and back. The position shown to the left will result in a competitive handling. Moving
some to the front will decrease steering from the center to exit of the corner. This helps smooth
out the car on extremely high bite tracks.
4 - Install the upper cap [67] with 4 black 2-56 button head screws [4]. The upper cap is the
“clamp” for the hinge pin. Be sure to tighten so that any gap is gone, however, do not tighten
beyond that point as damage can occur to the upper a-arm mount holes.
4-40 x 3/8”
Flat Head
63
2-56 Button Head
4
4
62
63 59
66

9
King Pin Brass Set
Screw
E-Clip
1 - Build up the left and right steering blocks [68] as shown to the left. Start by threading the 1/4” button head
screw [26] through the steering arm of the block [68] and into the red low profile ball [11].
2 - Then, slide the steel stub axle [69] into the steering block as shown, and secure it in place using the red 4-40
locknut.
1 - Locate the e-clip [70] and snap it into the groove of the King Pin [71]. Slide the
Front End Spring [72] down over the threaded end of the King Pin until it rests
against the e-clip.
2 - Using either the included Allen key, or your own .050” hex wrench, slide the
King Pin/spring/e-clip assembly through the lower arm pivot ball [58], & then
thread it into the steering block [68]. Thread it in until the front spring just touches
the lower arm pivot ball. You do not want any preload on this spring, but you
don’t want play either. Only run the king pin in until the spring just touches the
ball.
3 - Once happy with the king pin/spring preload position, lock the king pin with
the 4-40 brass set screw [73] through the hole in the side of the steering block.
Red Low-
Profile Ball
11 71 73
70
Upper
Ball
74
Pro-Strut Front End
Bag F
4-40 x 1/4” BH
26
69
68
26
11
74 75
1 - Use the large 8-32 screws [76] to mount the front suspension assembly to the graphite
front end plate [77]. Make sure that you have the notched side of the front end plate to the
left side of the car, and the smooth side to the right. Push the bumps on the bottom of the
lower suspension arm into the holes on the front end plate. Tighten both screws firmly, but
be careful not to strip the threads in the arm.
2 - Insert the 4-40 x 7/16” flat head screws [78] through the chassis, and then through one
of the 2 included aluminum ride height spacers [79], and then through the Graphite Front
End Plate [77]. (The drawing to the left only shows the thicker of the 2 different spacers, but
there is also 8 pcs of a thinner spacer as well. Use the different spacers to adjust the front
ride height of the car.) The 4-40 x 7/16” screws will slide right through the 2 rear holes of the
front end plate. Secure them in place with 2 of the 4-40 red locknuts [9]. In the 2 forward
holes of the front end plate, the screws will need to be threaded into the graphite and
tightened before you will be able to put on the locknuts. This smaller, tighter, threaded hole
keeps the front end securely located in place, so it doesn’t shift in the event of a crash.
77
1 - Take the upper pivot ball [74] and push it though the steering block and thread into
the upper arm. Thread it in so there are no threads showing.
2 - Take the slotted capture insert [75] and thread it into the steering block. THIS IS A
BIT TRICKY .... as the insert must be fitted at a down angle as shown to the left. DO
NOT try to insert it horizontally into the steering block. It is actually threaded in at a down
angle toward the center of the car.
3 - Tighten this capture insert so that the steering movement is bound and slow. Yes, we
are actually slightly over tightening this piece FOR NOW. With the steering movement
bound from over tightening, move the steering to it’s limits, back and forth. What we are
doing is “breaking in” the upper ball/capture insert. After a minute or so of break in,
loosen the insert just enough so the steering is free. Not too much or you will induce
excessive free play.
Red Locknut
9
9
70
58
72
71
68
73
76
9
79
78
4-40 x 7/16” FH
78
Notch
Smooth

1 - Insert a 1/4” x 3/8” Flanged Bearing [80] into each of the rear ride
height sliders [19].
2 - Slide the rear axle [81] through the 2mm red spacer [82], then
through a 1/4” shim [83] and then through the 2 rear pod bearings.
3 - On the protruding axle, slip another 1/4” shim over the axle, then
the 5mm red spacer [84], and then finally the Left Clamping Hub
[85]. Slip the Left Hub on with the small flange toward the 5mm
spacer. The larger flange should face out toward where the wheel
will mount.
4 - Lock the hub with the small 2.5 x 6mm cap screw [86] so that the
axle has a very small amount of side to side play in it. The thickness
of 2 sheets of paper is plenty. You don’t want excessive play here,
you’re just making sure to not pinch the bearings.
Bag 9
Differential
10
Bag 8
Differential Axle
1/4” x 3/8”
Flanged Bearing
80
Toward car
Small flange Large flange
81
83
1/4” Shim
83
Red Clamp Hub
85
m2.5 x 6mm
Socket Cap
86
80
83
84
85
19
19
82
80
86
1/4” x 3/8”
Plain Bearing
91
Lip
Diff Spacer
93
* Balls in outer ring
of holes in gear * Small lip
toward bearing
1/4” x 3/8”
Flanged Bearing
80
DIFF ASSEMBLY CONTINUED...
The diff spacer [93] has a small machined
lip on one side, point that lip toward the
shims and bearing. Now, place the spring
washer [94] so that the cone points away
from the gear. The outside of the washer
should be against the diff spacer, and the
inside of the washer should be against the
diff nut [95], which now goes on last. *Be
sure the 2 “D” rings have settled into their
notches. Just snug the nut so the parts stay
together on the diff axle. Correct diff tension
needs to be set with tires on the car.
3 - Setting the Diff - Once the tires are on: Adjust the diff nut so that the tires spin back and forth
freely when holding the spur gear, but it is very difficult to slip the spur gear with your thumb when holding
both tires. over-tighten, or the outer diff hub bearing will get crushed and ruin the diff! Re-check
diff tension after the first run.
DO NOT
Spring Washer
94
Nylon Diff Nut
95
2-DIFF ASSEMBLY -*(Holding the car on it’s side, with the rear
axle pointing upright will ease assembly of the diff.) Place 1 diff ring
[90], and then a 1/4” x 3/8” plain bearing [91] over the end of the
axle. Align the diff ring so that it notches into the axle flange. Place
the assembled gear with the greased diff balls over the axle and
push it down over the plain bearing. Next, insert the other plain
bearing into the back of the Diff Hub [92]. Then, align the second diff
ring with the notch on the back of the diff hub. *(place a small dab of
the diff grease on the hub first to hold the ring in place.)* Now, slide
the hub, bearing, & diff ring down over the axle. Next, slide a flanged
bearing [80] over the axle and into the front of the diff hub. After the
bearing is seated into the hub, place two 1/4” shims [83] over the
axle and slide them up against the bearing.
1-INSTALL AND GREASE THE DIFF BALLS -Pop the 3/32” diff balls [87] into each of the outer ring of holes in the
diff gear [88]. The balls should be inserted into the gear from the side that does NOT say CRC on it. The balls will
slide in easily from this side and not fall out the other side. After all the balls are in the gear, place a small dab of
silicone diff grease [89] on each ball. Use very little! Just enough to keep the balls from falling back out will be the
perfect amount for lubricating the diff.
1/4” Shim
83
90
91 88 89
87
90 91
92 80
83
93 95
94

Bag 10
Bag 11
BODY POSTS
Secure both of the short front body posts [96] to the chassis with
the 4-40 x 3/8” flat head screws [63].
For the longer rear body posts [97], use the 4/40 x 3/8” button
head screw [24]. Mount the body posts to the holes behind the
damper tubes on the Tweak Plate [20] as shown.
Thread the steel 1/8” set screw [98] into the plastic collar [99].
Adjust the collar up and down the body post to accommodate the
body shell used. Lock the collar in place with the set screw.
Adjust body height
by raising or
lowering this collar
4-40 x 5/16”
Red Socket Cap
1/8” Shim 1/8” x 5/16”
Flanged Bearing
Body Posts
11
63
Body Post Collar
99
96
24
98
Red Locknut
9
9
4-40 x 1/8”
Set Screw
98
4-40 x 3/8”
Flat Head
63
4-40 x 3/8”
Button Head
24
Tires and motor are NOT included
with the Carpet Knife Xti. They are
shown here for reference only.
97
99
100
101
101
102
100 102
101
103
104

Steering
12
Steering Tie Rod Plastic Ball Cups
105
Servo Saver Brace
107
NOT Included:
Kimbrough Servo Saver:
113 - Airtronics, JR, KO
114 - Futaba
131 - Hitec
105
Servo Mounting continued... (JR sized servos) -
When using servos such as the JR 3650, JR Sport MN48, Hitec 225MG,
Spektrum 5030/5040, and others with this case design, you will need to
remove the servo mounting ears on the side of the case furthest from the
servo spline with a hobby knife or rotary tool (refer to diagram above and to
the left).
Once you have removed the ears from the one side of the servo, bolt the red
aluminum servo mount [109] to the remaining ear with a 4-40 x 1/4” button
head screw [26] and a servo mount washer [110]. Before bolting the servo
down with a 4-40 x 5/16” flat head screw [12], place a piece of doubled sided
servo tape on the bottom of the servo. Peel the backing off of the tape, but do
not stick it down until you get the flat head screw started in the red aluminum
mount so that you know it will line up with the hole. Now you should be able
to stick the servo down and finish tightening the flat head screw.
After the servo has been bolted down and the servo saver has been installed,
you can pop the tie rods onto the servo saver and steering blocks.
Tie-Rods
Start by assembling 2 tie rods as shown to the left. This 1.126” gap
should be a good starting point for toe-in adjustment. If you do not have a
set of calipers, you can line up your tie rods with the drawing on the page
to get you close. Either way, you will need to adjust the final length after
the car is fully ready to run.
4-40 x 3/8”
Button Head
24
Red Low-
Profile Ball
11
106
1.126”
Servo Mounting -
If installing an Airtronics/Sanwa 94761 or SRGHR, then continue with the following
instructions and the picture on the right.
If installing a JR 3650, JR Sport MN48, Hitec 225MG, Spektrum 5030/5040, then refer to the
diagram and instructions on the bottom of the page.
When installing the above referenced Sanwa Servos, insert two 4-40 x 5/16” screws [12] up
through the chassis, then slide a Thin Ride Height Spacer [108] over each screw before
sliding the servo down over the screws and securing in place with two 4-40 red lock nuts [9].
After the servo has been bolted down and the servo saver has been installed, you can pop
the tie rods onto the servo saver and steering blocks.
4-40 x 5/16”
FH steel
12
106 106
Servo Saver Assembly -
Install the servo saver (not included) and assorted hardware in the order shown to the right. Put
the 4-40 x 3/8” button head screws [24] through the narrower set of holes on the servo saver
brace [107] and the middle set of holes on the servo saver as shown. The holes in the servo
saver will need to be either drilled out, or can be reamed out carefully with a hobby knife by lightly
setting the tip of the blade in the hole and spinning it as if it were a drill bit. Do this a little at a time
from both sides until the screw will pass through the hole. Once you have the screws through the
servo saver brace and servo saver, tighten the red low-profile balls [11] onto the screws.
108
9
12
24
11 107
This screw is included
with your servo,
not the Xti kit.
Red Locknut
9
Servo Spline Remove this side!
4-40 x 1/4” BH
26
Trimming completed
12
110
26
109
Servo Tape

Since 1993, Calandra Racing Concepts (CRC) has been producing the finest model racing cars
and products in the world. The production team that made your new Xti is not comprised of
simple factory workers looking to get home from work after a long boring day. Instead, when
our staff leaves their workstations for the day, they typically go to the track to work on, enjoy,
drive and race the products they just had a hand in making.
experienced crew that produced
your Xti can be found in the pits, wrenching on their own cars, or helping a fellow racer.
O
To enhance our knowledge data base, CRC is involved in every facet of model car racing. We
make the most popular indoor racing surface, CRC Fasttrak carpet. We produce the most
popular barrier system, CRC Clik Trak. Our racing tires, CRC Pro Cuts, have won national and
world championships. We have indoor and outdoor race tracks and a retail hobby store. We
meet new racers and learn what they need . Our products are distributed throughout the world
and typically feature very competitive pricing. We strive to keep the hobby fun, affordable and
yet stay very competitive in racing.
We thank you for your purchase of the CRC Xti 1:12th car. See you at the track.
Whether it be at a club race or
large events like National and World Championships, the
Our
team consists of racers and hobbyists just like you, with a passion for 1:12th racing.
Our design group leads the way with innovative ideas that make the hobby more fun, more
affordable and add more performance. CRC’s HR-38 rim changed the 1:12th tire world. The X-
pod released on the Gen-X in 2006 is now found on all the current crop of cars. Now with the
Slider Pod on the Xti, CRC has once again raised the bar.
ur professional racing team consists of multiple World and National Champions.
International names like Hupo Honigl, Marc Rheinard, Elliott Harper, Andy Moore, Simo
Ahoniemi and Jilles Groskamp have turned to CRC to give them the tools to win these large
events. CRC race support at these events is second to none.