Calandra Racing Concepts Generation X Series User manual

Carpet Knife Generation X
Gen-X 10
Assembly Manual
Calandra Racing Concepts, Inc.
6785 Martin St. – Rome, NY 13440
Phone & Fax [phone]
www.teamcrc.com / [email protected]

Plastic pivots
2
1Trim plastic
pivot pieces
using the dotted
lines as a guide.
After trim
Before trim
Graphite “football”
shaped piece.
(American Football)
2-56 Flat Head Alum Pivot ball
4-40 Thin Hex Nut
4-40 x 3/8” FH Steel Washer
Using a hobby knife, or Dremel tool, trim the plastic pivots [1] as shown. This
gives added motor and battery clearance.
Assemble the Center Pivot assembly as shown in Figure 2. Tighten the 2-56
flat heads [2] enough to remove any up and down play, be sure the flanged
pivot ball [4] pivots freely.
Red Locknut
1 - Place the 4-40 x 3/8” screws [5] through the graphite chassis [6] in
the holes shown. Tighten a 4-40 thin hex nut [7] down fairly tight.
2 - Then, after both thin hex nuts are tight on the 2 mounting screws,
drop the assembled pivot plate over the screw posts.
3 - Drop a washer [8] over each screw above the pivot plate assembly.
4 - Thread on the 4-40 red locknuts [9]. Do not tighten them yet as we
will adjust this later.
Bag 1
Center Pivot
Bag 1
Center Pivot
1
1
1
5
2
3
4
4
789
5
6
7
9
8
2

Bag 2
4-40 x 5/16”
FH steel
4-40 x ½”
FH Alum
One-Piece
Side Links
Graphite
Bottom Plate
Red Low-
Profile Ball
1 - In Bag 2, find the graphite bottom plate
[10]. Secure it to the pivot ball assembly
with the ½” red flat head screw [11]. Secure
it tight with the red 7/8” hex standoff [15].
2 - Find the 4 red low profile balls [12].
Secure them as shown with the steel 5/16”
screws [13]. When secure, pop the plastic
side links [14] on the balls.
Be sure the 2 aluminum locknuts on top of the pivot plate are slightly loose.
There should be a washer under each alum locknut. Notice that the pivot plate
“floats" or moves slightly on the 2 screws. This "floating" allows the links
to "free up". This ensures that the rear pod plate pivots freely on the links
and center pivot ball. This is a crucial step when setting up the Gen-X 10.
Snap the 2 links on the balls as shown above. They should rock freely on
the pivot balls.
Place the chassis/backplate on a flat surface. No tires and
no diff on the car! A smooth table or desk should do. Be
sure that the rear bottom plate and chassis are in a
straight line, flat against the table, again, no tires on the
car. Lightly “tap” the chassis and rear pod releasing any
tension in the links. Keep the chassis flat on the table for step 4.
Hold the chassis at the hold point “H” by pressing
the chassis down to the table. Slowly tighten the 2 locknuts that
secure the pivot plate (football shaped part). For now, just lightly
snug one side then the other.
Pick up the car and check the pivoting action of
rear lower plate. Rotate the rear plate from side-to-
side. It should move free without binding or "clicking".
If it does not, loosen the pivot locknuts and repeat steps 3+4.
If it rotates smoothly, tighten the locknuts on the football pivot more
securely. Do this by again holding the chassis down to the table at the
hold point “H”. Slowly and carefully, fully tighten the locknuts that hold the football
piece to the chassis. The handling of the Gen-X 10 hinges (pun intended!) on the
free movement of this rear plate. Be sure that the rear links and rear plate are free and not binding.
(not the rear pod)
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
5
Rotate
Pivot Plate
Setting the One-piece links
2
Red 7/8”
Standoff
15
10
15
10
11
12
14
13 11
12
13
14
H
H

Bag 3
4-40 x 1/4”
Red Button Head
Motor Plate
Graphite X-brace
Graphite
Top Plate
2-56 Steel
Ballstud - Black
Front
of car
1 - Install the black 2-56 ballstuds [16] into the graphite top plate [17]. These steel balls thread into the graphite, no nut is needed. Be sure to start them
straight and square.
2 - Insert a red button head screw [22] through the bottom of the graphite top plate [17] so that the threads point upward. Slide two washers [8] over the
screw and then tighten with the red female ballstud [18].
3 - Install the Graphite X-brace [19] to the back of the two aluminum pods [20 & 21]. Use 4 red button head screws [22] to attach the graphite piece to the
aluminum.
4 - Attach the assembled top plate to the pod plates using 2 red button head screws [22].
Rear X-Pod
3
16
17
20
16
17
19 20
22
18 19
22
22
21
Red Aluminum
Female Ballstud
18
4-40 x 1/4”
Red Alum FH
23
Left Side Pod Plate
21
Washer
8
8

1 - Install the completed rear pod to the chassis sub-assembly
using 4 red alum flat head screws [23]. Keep an eye on these
screws during the first few runs of your car. They tend to
loosen until they take a “set” and then they’ll stay tight.
We do NOT recommend using thread lock in aluminum to
aluminum applications. They will stay tight after being re-
tightened once or twice.
2 - Tighten the top plate to the hex standoff [15] using a red
button head screw [22].
Bag 4
4-40 x 5/16”
set screw
Thread the set screw in until flush
with the bottom of the holder. Add a
dab of super glue to keep these 2
parts secure to each other.
Metal Spring Holder
Graphite Tweak
Plate (x2)
INSERT TWEAK SCREWS IN BRACE ASSEMBLY
1 - Place the Tweak Brace [24] on a smooth, flat table and thread the
Tweak set screws [25] into the brace per the illustration. Try to be careful
to thread it in straight and perpendicular.
2 - With the tweak screw threaded through the brace, super glue or thread
lock the tweak screw to the metal spring holder [26] as shown in the
illustration. The tweak screw should thread in until flush with the bottom of
the spring holder.
3 - Repeat the above steps for the second Tweak Plate, but flip the plate
first as this is for the opposite side of the car.
Bag 3
Rear X-Pod
Tweak Plates
4
23
24
25 26
24
25
25
26
22

White
Side Spring
4-40 x ½”
Red Standoff
Assemble the Tweak Plates
1 - Use the red button head screws [22] to fasten the red
standoffs [28] to the graphite tweak plate [24].
2 - Put the red ball stud [29] through the tweak plate and
secure with a red locknut [9] as shown in the illustration.
ATTACH SPRING TO METAL RETAINER
Use a small screwdriver or your fingernail to start the
spring [27] into the groove on the metal retainer [26].
Pull the leading coil over the retainer and place the top
coil into the groove. Then, holding the retainer
securely, turn the spring clockwise to “open” the coil
and snap the remaining portion over the groove.
1 - Mount the completed tweak brace assembly to the chassis
as shown using the 4-40 x 1/4” red flat head screws [23]. Do
this for both left and right side tweak plates.
Bag 4
5
27
27 28
26
28
22
29
24
9
Red Alum
4-40 Ballstud
29
Red Locknut
9
4-40 x 1/4”
Red Button Head
22
4-40 x 1/4”
Red Alum FH
23
23
Tweak Plates

CRC
Tube
Lube
Bag 5
2-56 set-
screw stud
2-56 Plastic
Ball Cup
Short 4-40 Plastic
Ball Cup (on tree)
.035”
Allen Driver
Delrin Plunger
Aluminum Tube
.125 "
1
2
3
5
4
.188 "
1 - Use the small allen key [30] to drive the 2-56 set screw
stud [31] into the thin plastic ball cup [32].
2 - Leave about 3/16” (half the set screw length) protruding
from the ball cup.
3 - Do the same for the short 4-40 ballcup [33]. Use the 4-40
x 5/16” set screw [25] and the slighty larger .050” allen key.
Leave about 1/8” protruding.
4 - Thread the 2 ball cups into their respective tube halves
per the diagram. Finger tighten.
5 - Add CRC Tube Lube [34] to each slot on the delrin
plunger [35]. Build the tube and be sure it has smooth,
damped action. *** Note, fill only the slots, not the entire
aluminum tube [36]. ***
Damper Tube to Chassis assembly
Snap the assembled & lubed damper tubes on the
respective points as shown in the diagram to the right.
You will find it easier to snap on the centered, smaller
2-56 ball studs first, then pop the outer, larger 4-40
ballcups on.
Completed Tube
Damper Tubes
6
4-40 x 5/16”
set screw 25
30
31
32
30
31
32
25
33
33
34
36
35
36
35

Bag 6A
Graphite Battery
Tray Mount
Battery Top Deck
7
4-40 Thin Hex Nut
7
26
37
40
37
4-40 x 3/8”
Red FH
39
4-40 x 5/16”
Red FH
38
Spring Holder /
Captive Nut
26
Red 3/4”
Standoff
40
1 - Insert a captive nut [26] into a Graphite battery tray mount [37]
with the “teeth” on the nut facing the graphite. You will be able to
gently squeeze it in with a pair of pliers.
2 - Repeat this for the other 3 pieces.
Red Locknut
9
1 - Take one of the completed mounting brackets and line it up with
the holes in the chassis as shown in the diagram to the left. The
captive nut should line up with the dimple cut out of the chassis.
2 - Slide one of the shorter 5/16” red FH screws [38] through the rear
hole and tighten with a red lock nut [9].
3 - Slide one of the longer 3/8” red FH screws [39] through the front
hole and tighten with a silver thin hex nut [7]. Finish by tightening a red
3/4” hex standoff [40] on top of the thin hex nut [7].
Comlete the above steps for all 4 brackets. Your car should now look
like the diagram below.
9
7
39
38
Completed Bracket Assembly
and Installation

Bag 6B
Graphite Shock
Mount Plates (x2)
Battery Top Deck
41
42
Aluminum Shock /
Antenna Mount
4-40 x 1/4”
Red Alum FH
23
Red Locknut
9
4-40 x ½”
Steel Cap Head
43
Brass Washer
44
1 - Assemble shock mount as shown by inserting two
steel 4-40 x ½”cap head screws [43] through a graphite
plate [41], then through the aluminum mount [42], and
through the other graphite plate. Secure the screws and
tighten the assembly with two red locknuts [9].
2-
For now, slide the
third screw through one of the shock mount holes, slide
the washers over the screw, and lightly tighten with the
third locknut, just so we don’t lose the parts.
The ball shown in the picture is part of the center
shock, and we will get to this in bag 7.
8
4-40 x 1/8”
Set Screw
45
41
44
43
42
9
23
46
45
47
1 - Attach the completed center shock mount to the Top
Deck [46] using two 4-40 x 1/4” red FH screws [23] in the
holes shown in the diagram.
2 - Insert the antenna tube [47] into the center shock
mount and tighten with a 4-40 x 1/8” set screw [45].
The actual antenna tube in the kit is much longer
than what is shown in the picture.
NOTE -
0.5”
1.0”
2.5”
1 - Using either a hobby knife or scissors, cut the adhesive backed foam [48] into three
pieces according to the guide in the lower left corner of the page.
The guide is drawn to scale and you will be able to measure the foam by holding it
over the drawing.
2 - Peel the paper backing off the foam strips and stick them to the bottom side of the Top
Deck [46] as shown in the diagrams.
NOTE -
484848
4-40 x 1/4”
Red Button Head
22
NOTE - The ball
pictured here is not
included in this step.

Bag 7
Center Shock
9
Bag 6B
Battery Top Deck
22 1 - Attach the completed Battery Top Deck to the Main Chassis
by tightening four 4-40 x 1/4” red BH screws [22] to the red hex
standoffs.
Build the center shock per the instructions included in Bag 7.
Once the shock is built, refer to the diagram below.
1 - Remove the screw, nut, and 2 washers from the shock mount, that we had temporarily bolted
on earlier.
2 - Slide the screw through one of the graphite plates, and place one of the washers over the
screw. Now insert the screw through the shock ball. Insert the second washer between the shock
and the second graphite plate, and push the screw the rest of the way through the second plate.
Tighten the assembly with the red locknut.
3 - Using pliers, gently squeeze the plastic rod end over the ball stud on the rear top plate. Do not
force the rod end over the ball by pushing down on it or you could damage the top plate.