Calandra racing concepts Generation x series User manual

Carpet Knife Generation X

Gen-X 10

Assembly Manual

Calandra Racing Concepts, Inc.

6785 Martin St. – Rome, NY 13440

Phone & Fax 315-338-0867

www.teamcrc.com / [email protected]

Plastic pivots

1Trim plastic

pivot pieces

using the dotted

lines as a guide.

After trim

Before trim

Graphite “football”

shaped piece.

(American Football)

2-56 Flat Head Alum Pivot ball

4-40 Thin Hex Nut

4-40 x 3/8” FH Steel Washer

Using a hobby knife, or Dremel tool, trim the plastic pivots [1] as shown. This

gives added motor and battery clearance.

Assemble the Center Pivot assembly as shown in Figure 2. Tighten the 2-56

flat heads [2] enough to remove any up and down play, be sure the flanged

pivot ball [4] pivots freely.

Red Locknut

1 - Place the 4-40 x 3/8” screws [5] through the graphite chassis [6] in

the holes shown. Tighten a 4-40 thin hex nut [7] down fairly tight.

2 - Then, after both thin hex nuts are tight on the 2 mounting screws,

drop the assembled pivot plate over the screw posts.

3 - Drop a washer [8] over each screw above the pivot plate assembly.

4 - Thread on the 4-40 red locknuts [9]. Do not tighten them yet as we

will adjust this later.

Bag 1

Center Pivot

Bag 1

Center Pivot

789

Bag 2

4-40 x 5/16”

FH steel

4-40 x ½”

FH Alum

One-Piece

Side Links

Graphite

Bottom Plate

Red Low-

Profile Ball

1 - In Bag 2, find the graphite bottom plate

[10]. Secure it to the pivot ball assembly

with the ½” red flat head screw [11]. Secure

it tight with the red 7/8” hex standoff [15].

2 - Find the 4 red low profile balls [12].

Secure them as shown with the steel 5/16”

screws [13]. When secure, pop the plastic

side links [14] on the balls.

Be sure the 2 aluminum locknuts on top of the pivot plate are slightly loose.

There should be a washer under each alum locknut. Notice that the pivot plate

“floats" or moves slightly on the 2 screws. This "floating" allows the links

to "free up". This ensures that the rear pod plate pivots freely on the links

and center pivot ball. This is a crucial step when setting up the Gen-X 10.

Snap the 2 links on the balls as shown above. They should rock freely on

the pivot balls.

Place the chassis/backplate on a flat surface. No tires and

no diff on the car! A smooth table or desk should do. Be

sure that the rear bottom plate and chassis are in a

straight line, flat against the table, again, no tires on the

car. Lightly “tap” the chassis and rear pod releasing any

tension in the links. Keep the chassis flat on the table for step 4.

Hold the chassis at the hold point “H” by pressing

the chassis down to the table. Slowly tighten the 2 locknuts that

secure the pivot plate (football shaped part). For now, just lightly

snug one side then the other.

Pick up the car and check the pivoting action of

rear lower plate. Rotate the rear plate from side-to-

side. It should move free without binding or "clicking".

If it does not, loosen the pivot locknuts and repeat steps 3+4.

If it rotates smoothly, tighten the locknuts on the football pivot more

securely. Do this by again holding the chassis down to the table at the

hold point “H”. Slowly and carefully, fully tighten the locknuts that hold the football

piece to the chassis. The handling of the Gen-X 10 hinges (pun intended!) on the

free movement of this rear plate. Be sure that the rear links and rear plate are free and not binding.

(not the rear pod)

Rotate

Pivot Plate

Setting the One-piece links

Red 7/8”

Standoff

13 11

Bag 3

4-40 x 1/4”

Red Button Head

Motor Plate

Graphite X-brace

Graphite

Top Plate

2-56 Steel

Ballstud - Black

Front

of car

1 - Install the black 2-56 ballstuds [16] into the graphite top plate [17]. These steel balls thread into the graphite, no nut is needed. Be sure to start them

straight and square.

2 - Insert a red button head screw [22] through the bottom of the graphite top plate [17] so that the threads point upward. Slide two washers [8] over the

screw and then tighten with the red female ballstud [18].

3 - Install the Graphite X-brace [19] to the back of the two aluminum pods [20 & 21]. Use 4 red button head screws [22] to attach the graphite piece to the

aluminum.

4 - Attach the assembled top plate to the pod plates using 2 red button head screws [22].

Rear X-Pod

19 20

18 19

Red Aluminum

Female Ballstud

4-40 x 1/4”

Red Alum FH

Left Side Pod Plate

Washer

1 - Install the completed rear pod to the chassis sub-assembly

using 4 red alum flat head screws [23]. Keep an eye on these

screws during the first few runs of your car. They tend to

loosen until they take a “set” and then they’ll stay tight.

We do NOT recommend using thread lock in aluminum to

aluminum applications. They will stay tight after being re-

tightened once or twice.

2 - Tighten the top plate to the hex standoff [15] using a red

button head screw [22].

Bag 4

4-40 x 5/16”

set screw

Thread the set screw in until flush

with the bottom of the holder. Add a

dab of super glue to keep these 2

parts secure to each other.

Metal Spring Holder

Graphite Tweak

Plate (x2)

INSERT TWEAK SCREWS IN BRACE ASSEMBLY

1 - Place the Tweak Brace [24] on a smooth, flat table and thread the

Tweak set screws [25] into the brace per the illustration. Try to be careful

to thread it in straight and perpendicular.

2 - With the tweak screw threaded through the brace, super glue or thread

lock the tweak screw to the metal spring holder [26] as shown in the

illustration. The tweak screw should thread in until flush with the bottom of

the spring holder.

3 - Repeat the above steps for the second Tweak Plate, but flip the plate

first as this is for the opposite side of the car.

Bag 3

Rear X-Pod

Tweak Plates

25 26

White

Side Spring

4-40 x ½”

Red Standoff

Assemble the Tweak Plates

1 - Use the red button head screws [22] to fasten the red

standoffs [28] to the graphite tweak plate [24].

2 - Put the red ball stud [29] through the tweak plate and

secure with a red locknut [9] as shown in the illustration.

ATTACH SPRING TO METAL RETAINER

Use a small screwdriver or your fingernail to start the

spring [27] into the groove on the metal retainer [26].

Pull the leading coil over the retainer and place the top

coil into the groove. Then, holding the retainer

securely, turn the spring clockwise to “open” the coil

and snap the remaining portion over the groove.

1 - Mount the completed tweak brace assembly to the chassis

as shown using the 4-40 x 1/4” red flat head screws [23]. Do

this for both left and right side tweak plates.

Bag 4

27 28

Red Alum

4-40 Ballstud

Red Locknut

4-40 x 1/4”

Red Button Head

4-40 x 1/4”

Red Alum FH

Tweak Plates

CRC

Tube

Lube

Bag 5

2-56 set-

screw stud

2-56 Plastic

Ball Cup

Short 4-40 Plastic

Ball Cup (on tree)

.035”

Allen Driver

Delrin Plunger

Aluminum Tube

.125 "

.188 "

1 - Use the small allen key [30] to drive the 2-56 set screw

stud [31] into the thin plastic ball cup [32].

2 - Leave about 3/16” (half the set screw length) protruding

from the ball cup.

3 - Do the same for the short 4-40 ballcup [33]. Use the 4-40

x 5/16” set screw [25] and the slighty larger .050” allen key.

Leave about 1/8” protruding.

4 - Thread the 2 ball cups into their respective tube halves

per the diagram. Finger tighten.

5 - Add CRC Tube Lube [34] to each slot on the delrin

plunger [35]. Build the tube and be sure it has smooth,

damped action. *** Note, fill only the slots, not the entire

aluminum tube [36]. ***

Damper Tube to Chassis assembly

Snap the assembled & lubed damper tubes on the

respective points as shown in the diagram to the right.

You will find it easier to snap on the centered, smaller

2-56 ball studs first, then pop the outer, larger 4-40

ballcups on.

Completed Tube

Damper Tubes

4-40 x 5/16”

set screw 25

Bag 6A

Graphite Battery

Tray Mount

Battery Top Deck

4-40 Thin Hex Nut

4-40 x 3/8”

Red FH

4-40 x 5/16”

Red FH

Spring Holder /

Captive Nut

Red 3/4”

Standoff

1 - Insert a captive nut [26] into a Graphite battery tray mount [37]

with the “teeth” on the nut facing the graphite. You will be able to

gently squeeze it in with a pair of pliers.

2 - Repeat this for the other 3 pieces.

Red Locknut

1 - Take one of the completed mounting brackets and line it up with

the holes in the chassis as shown in the diagram to the left. The

captive nut should line up with the dimple cut out of the chassis.

2 - Slide one of the shorter 5/16” red FH screws [38] through the rear

hole and tighten with a red lock nut [9].

3 - Slide one of the longer 3/8” red FH screws [39] through the front

hole and tighten with a silver thin hex nut [7]. Finish by tightening a red

3/4” hex standoff [40] on top of the thin hex nut [7].

Comlete the above steps for all 4 brackets. Your car should now look

like the diagram below.

Completed Bracket Assembly

and Installation

Bag 6B

Graphite Shock

Mount Plates (x2)

Battery Top Deck

Aluminum Shock /

Antenna Mount

4-40 x 1/4”

Red Alum FH

Red Locknut

4-40 x ½”

Steel Cap Head

Brass Washer

1 - Assemble shock mount as shown by inserting two

steel 4-40 x ½”cap head screws [43] through a graphite

plate [41], then through the aluminum mount [42], and

through the other graphite plate. Secure the screws and

tighten the assembly with two red locknuts [9].

For now, slide the

third screw through one of the shock mount holes, slide

the washers over the screw, and lightly tighten with the

third locknut, just so we don’t lose the parts.

The ball shown in the picture is part of the center

shock, and we will get to this in bag 7.

4-40 x 1/8”

Set Screw

1 - Attach the completed center shock mount to the Top

Deck [46] using two 4-40 x 1/4” red FH screws [23] in the

holes shown in the diagram.

2 - Insert the antenna tube [47] into the center shock

mount and tighten with a 4-40 x 1/8” set screw [45].

The actual antenna tube in the kit is much longer

than what is shown in the picture.

NOTE -

0.5”

1.0”

2.5”

1 - Using either a hobby knife or scissors, cut the adhesive backed foam [48] into three

pieces according to the guide in the lower left corner of the page.

The guide is drawn to scale and you will be able to measure the foam by holding it

over the drawing.

2 - Peel the paper backing off the foam strips and stick them to the bottom side of the Top

Deck [46] as shown in the diagrams.

NOTE -

484848

4-40 x 1/4”

Red Button Head

NOTE - The ball

pictured here is not

included in this step.

Bag 7

Center Shock

Bag 6B

Battery Top Deck

22 1 - Attach the completed Battery Top Deck to the Main Chassis

by tightening four 4-40 x 1/4” red BH screws [22] to the red hex

standoffs.

Build the center shock per the instructions included in Bag 7.

Once the shock is built, refer to the diagram below.

1 - Remove the screw, nut, and 2 washers from the shock mount, that we had temporarily bolted

on earlier.

2 - Slide the screw through one of the graphite plates, and place one of the washers over the

screw. Now insert the screw through the shock ball. Insert the second washer between the shock

and the second graphite plate, and push the screw the rest of the way through the second plate.

Tighten the assembly with the red locknut.

3 - Using pliers, gently squeeze the plastic rod end over the ball stud on the rear top plate. Do not

force the rod end over the ball by pushing down on it or you could damage the top plate.

2-56 x ½” SH

Plastic Ride Height

Spacers 3, 4, 5mm

Delrin

Pivot Ball

CRC Pro-Strut

Front End

2-56 Red

Locknut

4-40 x 7/16”

Red FH

1 - Pop the delrin pivot ball [49] into the lower arm [50]. Place the arm on a strong table and push

the ball in with the back of screwdriver handle. Or preferably, you can use CRC’s 4279 Ball popper

pivot ball tool. Notice the “lip” of the delrin pivot ball is pointing upward. The diagram to the left

represents a right side lower arm. For the left side, flip the second arm over and be sure the pivot

ball is installed with the lip again facing up.

2 - Once the ball is popped in, insert the black 2-56 clamp screw [51] through the horizontal hole in

the lower arm. Thread the 2-56 red locknut [52] onto the black screw. Tighten the screw slowly

continuously checking the pivot ball. When it begins to bind a bit, back the 2-56 screw off a bit. The

ball should be free to pivot with just a bit of drag. There is no need to have this ball super loose and

free, a slight drag will be just the right amount of clamping force.

Check this fit after a few runs as the ball will wear and require additional clamping force.

Lip

1 - Install the upper A-arm mount [53] with the amount of Dynamic Caster desired. The options are 0, 5 and 10

degrees. The part shown to the right in the diagram is the 5 degree version and is a good starting point. The

10 will angle down more toward the front of the car with the 0 being parallel to the chassis. The general

thought is the more Dynamic Caster, more steering the car will have at corner entry.

2 - With side cutters or good scissors, cut off (do NOT break off) the 3, 4 and 5 mm spacers [54] from the ride

height tree. Use the 5 mm thickness for 1/10th scale tires. For fine front ride height adjustments, use the CRC

#4262 optional front shim set. This set contains .010, .020 and .030” plastic ride height shims. After selecting

the proper spacer, push the red 4-40 x 7/16” screw [55] through the plastic ride height spacer [54], then

through the lower arm [50], and then thread the screw into the upper A-arm mount [53]. Be sure NOT to over

tighten. Just snug, you are threading an aluminum screw into the plastic upper A-arm mount.

Bag F

1 - Break the mold tree from the upper A-arm [56]. You can clean up the

mold gates with a hobby knife or rotary tool.

2 - Locate the upper arm hinge pin [57] and slide it into one half of the upper

arm. Locate 3 small caster shims [58]. Push the hinge pin through the 3

shims. Then continue to push the hinge pin all the way into the upper arm.

3 - Now, install the arm/pin/washer assembly onto the upper arm mount [53].

Put the hinge pin in the channel. At this point you can set your starting

caster setting by moving these washers forward and back. The position

shown to the left will result in a competitive handling. Moving them to the

rear will increase steering from the center and exit of the corner.

If the fit of the upper arm is tight, trim the upper arm mount SLIGHTLY with a

hobby knife.

4 - Install the upper cap [59] with 4 black 2-56 button head screws [60]. The

topper is the “clamp” for the hinge pin. Be sure to tighten so that any gap is

gone, however, do not tighten beyond that point as damage can occur to the

upper a-arm mount holes.

56 57

Hinge Pin

Caster Shim

2-56 BH

Upper Cap

Dual Axle King Pin

Brass Set

Screw

E-Clip

2-56 SH

1 - Build up the left and right steering blocks [61] as shown to the left. Start by threading the red button head screw

[22] through the graphite steering arm [62] and into the red low profile ball [12].

2 - Then, slide the graphite steering arm assembly into the steering block, lining up the 2 mounting holes. Using the

black 2-56 socket head screws [63], fasten the arm to the steering block. DO NOT OVER tighten. You will drive the

screw through the steering block, deforming the part.

1 - Push the Dual aluminum axle [64] into the plastic steering block [61]. Push it all the way

in firmly. Notice you can install the axle inline or trailing. Typically, this is installed inline for

1/10th racing. This will increase the steering response as compared to trailing.

2 - Insert the e-clip [67] into the groove on the end of the King pin [65]. Next, slide the nylon

spring cup [69] all the way down until it rests against the e-clip. Make sure the larger

diameter of the spring cup is against the e-clip and the smaller diameter side faces up. Now

slide the spring [66] down against the spring cup, large side down. The larger end of the

spring will fit over the step in the spring cup, and the smaller end of the spring will fit into the

bottom of the lower arm.

3 - Now put your king pin / spring assembly on the end of the Allen key and slide it through

the lower arm pivot ball [49], & then thread it into the steering block (with the steering block

all the way down against the pivot ball). Thread the king pin in until the spring just touches

the lower arm pivot ball. The preload on the spring can be adjusted with the king pin length.

4 - Once happy with the preload position, lock the king pin with the 4-40 brass set screw

[68] through the back of the steering block.

CRC Pro-Strut

Front End - cont.

Red Low-

Profile Ball

4-40 x 1/4”

Red Button Head

64 65

Upper

Ball

12 63

Graphite

Steering Arm

Red

Side Spring

Nylon Spring

Cup

1 - Take the upper pivot ball [70] and push it though the steering block and

thread into the upper arm. Thread it in so there are no threads showing.

2 - Take the slotted capture insert [71] and thread it into the steering block.

THIS IS A BIT TRICKY .... as the insert must be fitted at a down angle as

shown to the left. DO NOT try to insert it horizontally into the steering block. It

is actually threaded in at a down angle toward the center of the car.

3 - Tighten this capture insert so that the steering movement is bound and

slow. Yes, we are actually slightly over tightening this piece FOR NOW. With

the steering movement bound from over tightening, move the steering to it’s

limits, back and forth. What we are doing is “breaking in” the upper

ball/capture insert. After a minute or so of break in, loosen the insert just

enough so the steering is free. Not too much or you will induce excessive free

play.

70 71

Installing the Lower arm to the

Chassis

1 - Insert three 4-40 x 7/16” red FH screws [55] through the

chassis, then through the Front End Riser Plate [72], and top

with the Front End Mounting Plate [73]. Secure these parts with

three red locknuts [9]. We recommend starting in the middle

hole of the plates as shown in the pic. This will give you the

option to go either wider or narrower if need be.

2 - Now, secure the front end assembly to the plate using the 8-

32 x ½” low head front end screws [74]. Again, we recommend

starting in the middle hole, giving you the option to go longer or

shorter.

3 - Repeat these steps for the other side.

4 - For fine ride height adjustments, you can use CRC’s 4262

plastic shim kit (optional)

CRC Pro-Strut

Front End - cont.

4-40 x 7/16”

Red FH 55 Red Locknut

8-32 x ½”

Low Head

F.E. Screw 74

Installing the Bumper to the Chassis

1 - Insert three 4-40 x 5/16” red FH screws [38] through the

chassis, then through the Bumper [75] Secure these parts with

three red locknuts [9].

4-40 x 5/16”

Red FH

Adjustable Servo Mounts

The Gen-X 10 is equipped with an adjustable servo mounting system that will let

you use a variety of servos from different manufacturers.

1 - Align the adjustable servo mount plate [76] so that the longer slot is to the left

of the car, and lines up over the larger hole in the chassis.

2 - Use the 4-40 x 1/4” red button head screws [22] to bolt the servo mounts [77]

to the adjustable servo mount plate.

Do not tighten these yet as we will need to be

able to slide them when installing the servo.

3 - Slide the two 4-40 x 5/16” red FH screws [38] through the holes in the

chassis and then through the slots in the servo plate. Place a washer over the

screws and finish with the red locknuts [9]. Again, do not fully tighten these yet

as we will need to move it later.

(Refer to the diagram on the right to decide which

of the 3 holes to use for your servo.)

JR 3550 and 3650

use the middle

screw hole.

Futaba 9650,

KO 949, Hitec 225,

and Airtronics/Sanwa -

94141 and 94145

use the rear hole.

4-40 x 5/16”

Red FH

Red Locknut

CRC Pro-Strut

Front End - cont.

Servo Mounting and Tie-Rods

In most cases, mounting the servo in the top hole of the servo mount will be

the best option for tie-rod clearance, bump-steer angle, etc. This could vary

slightly with different servo savers, but would be rare.

We recommend using the Kimbrough Mid-Size Servo Saver (part number

KIM201) and u

1 - Thread the red ball studs [29] into the servo saver from the front and then

secure them with a red locknut [9] on the back. Mount the servo saver to the

servo

2 - Slide a washer [8] over each of the 4-40 x 3/8” red cap head screws [78].

Now slide the screw through the servo ears and thread them into the servo

mounts. Make sure the servo mounts face straight forward and are as close

to the servo as you can get them, then fully tighten the cap head screws

3 - Slide the servo left or right on the plate to get the servo saver centered

between the front end

. Once it’s centered, fully tighten the button head screws [22] to

lock the servo mounts in place.

4 - Thread a ballcup [79] onto each end of the steering tie-rods [80], keeping

in mind that one end is right hand threads and the other end is left hand

threads. Keep the gap between the ballcup and the end of threads as equal

as you can on both sides. Once both tie-rods are built, pop one end of each

tie-rod onto the servo saver and the other end onto the steering blocks. Keep

the servo saver pointing straight down, and adjust your tie-rod lengths so that

both front axles point straight out.

(you will need to remove it later to center the servo trim once the rest of the

electronics are installed)

(without causing damage to the servo ears!)

(use the hole in the chassis directly below the saver as a

center guide)

(Just get it close for now. It will be easier to

accurately set the toe-in once the front tires are installed.)

sing the lowest and outermost holes on the servo saver.

Front of Car

Left

Red Alum

4-40 Ballstud

4-40 x 3/8”

Red Socket Cap

Washer

4-40 x 1/4”

Red Button Head

Diff Ring

Bag 9

Differential

1/4” x 3/8”

Flanged Bearing

90 1/4” x 3/8”

Plain Bearing

Lip

Diff Spacer

Spring Washer

94 Nylon Diff Nut

6 - Lock the hub in place with the two 4-40 x 3/8” steel cap head screws [86] so

that the axle has a very small amount of side to side play in it. The thickness

Bag 8

1 - Locate the tree of ride height inserts [81]. Select an insert that will work best with your

tire size . Save the

left over inserts as you will use these to adjust rear ride height as the tires wear.

2 - Insert a 1/4” x 3/8” [82] Flanged Bearing into each of the ride height spacers.

3 - Now insert the ride height spacers into the rear pod plates with the bearings up.

4 - Slide the rear axle [83] through two 1/4” shims [84] and into the 2 rear pod bearings.

5 - On the protruding axle, slip two more 1/4” shims over the axle. Then slip the hub [85] on

as shown in the picture.

(example - the #2 spacers will give you about 5mm of ride height with 2.20” tires)

Differential Axle

1/4” Shim

1-INSTALL AND GREASE THE DIFF BALLS

Pop the 1/8” diff balls [87] into each of the outer ring of holes in the

diff gear [88]. The balls snap into the socket. Place a small dab of

silicone diff grease [89] on each ball. Use very little!

*(Holding the car on it’s side, with the rear axle pointing upright will

ease assembly of the diff.) Place 1 diff ring [90], and then a 1/4” x

3/8” plain bearing [91] over the end of the axle. Align the diff ring so

that it notches into the axle flange. Place the assembled gear with

the greased diff balls over the axle and push it down over the plain

bearing. Next, insert the other plain bearing into the back of the diff

hub [92]. Then, align the second diff ring with the notch on the back

of the diff hub. *(place a small dab of the diff grease on the hub first

to hold the ring in place.)* Now, slide the hub, bearing, & diff ring

down over the axle. Next, slide a flanged bearing [82] over the axle

and into the front of the diff hub.

2-DIFF ASSEMBLY

Small lip

toward bearing

** Balls in outer ring of holes in gear **

1/4” x 3/8”

Flanged Bearing

Ride Height Inserts

82 84

DIFF ASSEMBLY -CONTINUED...

The diff spacer [93] has a small machined

lip on one side, point that lip toward the

bearing. Now, place the spring washer [94]

so that the cone points away from the gear.

The outside of the washer should be

against the diff spacer, and the inside of the

washer should be against the diff nut [95],

which now goes on last. *Be sure the 2 “D”

rings have settled into their notches. Just

snug the nut so the parts stay together on

the diff axle. Correct diff tension needs to

be set with tires on the car. We will do this

later.

4-40 x 3/8”

Steel Socket Cap

of 2 sheets of paper is plenty. You don’t want

excessive play here, you’re just making sure

to not pinch the bearings.

Battery Tray

Bolts Here

100

101

102

103

4-40 x 1/8”

Set Screw

Bag 10

4-40 x 3/8”

Red Socket Cap

BODY POSTS

1 - Secure the shorter front body posts [96] to the front bumper with

the steel button head screws [97].

2 - Mount the longer rear body posts [98] to the Tweak Plates, using

the red socket cap screw [78]. The tweak plates have two body

mount locations to accommodate numerous body sizes and styles.

Choose the hole that will work best with your body.

3 - Thread the 1/8” set screw [45] into the plastic collars [99]. Adjust

the collar up and down the body post to accommodate the body shell

used. Lock the collar with the set screw.

45 78

Adjust body height

by raising or

lowering this collar

M3 x 8mm Steel

Button Head

Two rear body

mount locations

Bag 11

4-40 x 3/8”

Red Socket Cap 3/16” Shim 3/16” x 5/16”

Flanged Bearing

Red Locknut

100 101

4-40 x 1/4”

Steel FH

102

1 - Use the 4-40 x 3/8” red cap head screws [78] to bolt the

rear wheels to the hubs.

2 - Insert the flanged bearings [101] into the front wheels.

Place a 3/16” shim [100] over the axle, then the front wheel,

& then a red locknut [9] last. The front wheels should spin

very free. Do not over-tighten the front wheel nuts so that the

bearings are pinched.

3 - Install the battery tray [103] using four 4-40 x 1/4” steel

FH screws [102].

(Tires not included)

(The tray for NiCd/NiMh batteries is shown in the

picture. Also included is a flat LiPo battery tray.)

ID# Kit / Part Description Part # Packaged Part Description

1 Plastic Pivot Pieces 1274 Plastic Center Pivot Pieces

2 2-56 Flat Head screw 12753 2-56 x 1/4" Flat Head - Hex (4)

3 Graphite Football 3272 Graphite Pivot Plate - GenX/GX10

4 Flanged Pivot Ball 4019 Aluminum Pivot Balls

5 4-40 x 3/8 steel flat head 1428 3/8" x 4-40 FH Allen-SS

6 Graphite Main Chassis 1755 Main Chassis - Gen-X 10

7 4-40 thin hex nut 12772 Small Hex Nuts - Pivot Plate (10)

8 Small Washer 1209 Servo Mount Washer (10)

9 4-40 red locknut 1412 Alum Locknuts-Red Anodized (10)

1410 Andzd Alum Screw Set

10 Graphite Bottom Plate 1766 Bottom plate- Gen-X 10

11 Long red flat head screw 1410 Andzd Alum Screw Set - CK

12 Red pivot Ball 13615 Anodized Low Roll Center Balls (4)

13 4-40 x 5/16 steel flat head 1426 5/16 x 4-40 FH Allen-SS (4)

14 One-Piece side links 1380 One-Piece Links for CK (2)

15 Red 7/8" Hex Standoff 3337 Open-X Hex Standoff-Gen-X

16 Black 2-56 ballstud 1384 2-56 Ballstuds & Ballcups for Damper tubes (4)

17 Graphite Top Plate 1765 Top plate - Gen-X 10

18 Female Hex Ballstud 1407 Anodized Hex Balls

19 X-Brace 1774 Rear X-Brace, Wide - BA/GX10

20 Motor Plate 3340 Low Profile Motor Pod-Gen X

21 Left Side Pod Plate 3338 Open-X Left bulkhead-Gen-X

22 4-40 x 1/4 Red Button Head 1410 Andzd Alum Screw Set - CK

23 4-40 x 1/4 alum flathead 1410 Andzd Alum Screw Set - CK

24 Graphite Tweak Plate 1770 Graphite Side Plate - GenX 10

25 Tweak Screw 1288 5/16 x 4-40 set screw-twk 3.2 & Gen X

26 Metal Spring Holder 12871 Metal Spring Holders/Captive Nut

27 White Spring 1296 Side Spring- White - Med

1280 Rear Side Spring Set

28 Red Standoffs 1260 CRC Hour-glass Standoff 1/2

29 Red Ball Stud 1409 Anodized 4-40 Ball Studs (4)

30 .035 allen wrench 13695 .035 Allen wrench

31 2-56 set screw stud 1397 2-56 Stud for Damper Tubes w/ .035 hex head