Carf-Models MiG-15 Instructions for use

Construction Manual
Museum Scale All Composite Jet Aircraft
MiG-15 bis “Fagot”
Version2
[e-mail] / V2.1, March. 2012

contents
1. Nose gear installation & nose gear doors
2. Ataching the wing to the fuselage
3. Installing the ailerons and servos
4.Installing flaps and servos
5. Bottom rudder and servo installation
6. Elevator and top rudder
7. Fuselage hatches
8. Speed brake doors
9. Engine installation
10. Main gear and doors
11. Ideas for Elecronic and hardware installation
12. Optional fuel tank installation
13. control throws / CG settings
14. Appendix

safety instructions and warnings
In the interests of your own safety and that of others, the model must only be operated by experienced,
disciplinedmodellerswithsufficientspecialisedexpertise,anditmust beservicedandmaintainedregularly
and competently. If you have no experience in building and operating models of this type, it is vital that
you enlist the help andadvice of an experienced jet modeller if youare to avoid potentially catastrophic
errors; this applies in particular to the jet engine itself, which should only be run when an experienced
operator is present. If you have a model flying groupor club in your area where training and support are
available, we strongly recommend that you join that group. With thismodelany defect ordeficiency in its
construction or operation can result in serious personal injury or even death.
CAUTION!
Beforeyouoperate thismodel aircraft, youmust determinethe local by-lawsandregulationswhich apply
to you. Inlegal termsour modelsare classedasaircraft, andassuch aresubject to legal regulationsand
restrictionswhichmust beobserved. ContactyourRepregardingtheAMARegulationsfor turbinepowered
aircraft.
WARNING!
It is yourresponsibility to protect others from possible injury. Keep asafe distance from residential areas
in order to protect people, animals and buildings: at least 1.5 km “as the crow flies”.
Keep well clear of high-tension overhead cables. Don’t fly the model in poor weather, especially when
thereislow cloud cover or fog. Don’t flythe model directly into thesun, asyou could easily lose visual
contact with themodel. Toavoid collisions, always keep well clear of full-size aircraft, whethermannedor
unmanned. It is your responsibility to landimmediately if a real aircraft approaches.
When operating a jet engine you must keep people and animals in a safe distance from it. This means:
In front of the turbine 4.5 m
To the side of the turbine 7.5 m
Behindthe turbine 4.5 m
WARNING!
The operator of the model must bein full possession of his or her bodily and mental faculties. Operating
a model aircraft under theinfluence of alcohol or drugsis not permissible under any circumstances. This
applies both to the operator and to his or her assistants.
WARNING!
Radio-controlled model aircraft may only be used for the purpose intended by the manufacturer. They
must never be used as machines for carrying people or goods, nor for any other purpose except as
model aircraft. Misuse of this model may result in serious personal injury or even death.
WARNING!
It isimportant not tomakeany modificationsof anykindtothemodel. If youdeviatefrom the instructions,
perhaps by using different components or materials, or by making changes to the structural design, you
may seriouslyaffecttheability of themodel aircraft tofunctioncorrectly. Please resist thetemptation, and
build the model exactly asdirected.
WARNING!
Before you fly the model it is essential to check the Centre of Gravity and thecontrol surface travels, as
stated in these instructions. These settings are very important, and our recommended values must be
observed. Before you fly the model, carry out a careful check of all the working functions and all the
control surfaces. Check the range of the radio control system with the transmitter aerial collapsed. If the
check issatisfactory, repeat it withtheengine running,with an assistantholdingthemodel securely. Read
theinstructionssuppliedwithyourradiocontrolsystem,andmakesurethatyouobservethemanufacturer’s
recommendations.

LIABILITYEXCLUSIONANDDAMAGES
You have acquired a kit which can be assembled into a fully working RC model
when fitted out withsuitable accessories, as described in the building instructions
in the kit. However, as manufacturers, we at Composite-ARF are not ina position to
influence the way you build and operate your model, and we have no control over
the methods you use to install, operate and maintain the radio control system
components. Forthis reason weareobliged to deny allliability forloss,damageor
costs which are incurred due to the incompetent or incorrect application and
operation of our products, or which areconnectedwith such operation in anyway.
Unless otherwise prescribed by binding law, the obligation of the Composite-ARF
company to pay compensation is excluded, regardless of the legal argument
employed. This applies to personal injury, death, damage to buildings, loss of
turnover and business, interruption of business or other direct and indirect
consequentdamages. In allcircumstancesourtotalliabilityislimited totheamount
which you actually paid forthis model.
BY OPERATING THIS MODEL YOU ASSUME FULL RESPONSIBILITY FOR YOUR
ACTIONS.
It is important to understand that Composite-ARF is unable to monitor whether you keep
totheinstructionscontainedin this operatingmanual regardingtheconstruction, operation
and maintenance of the aircraft, nor whetheryou install and use the radio control system
correctly. For this reason we at Composite-ARF are unable to guarantee or provide a
contractual agreement with anyindividual or company that themodelyouhave madewill
function correctly and safely. You, as operator of the model, must rely upon your own
expertise andjudgement in acquiring andoperating this model.
SUPPLEMENTARYSAFETYNOTES
Pre-flight checking
Before every session check that all the model’s working systems function correctly, and
be sure to carry out a range check. This is the procedure: switch on the transmitter,
followed by the receiver. Leave the transmitter aerial collapsed and walk away from the
model. At the appropriate range check that all the control surfaces work perfectly when
you movethe sticks.
Repeat theprocedurewiththeengine running, whileanassistant holdsthemodel securely.
The first time you fly any new model aircraft we strongly recommend that you enlist the
help of an experienced modeller to help you check the model and offer advice while you
are flying. He should be capable of detecting potential weak points and errors.
Be certain to keep to the recommended CG position and control surface travels; if
adjustments are required, carry them out.
Don’t ignoreour warnings or thoseprovided by other manufacturers. They refer
to things and processes which, if ignored, can result in fatal injury or permanent
damage.

Servos
Ailerons: 2x DS 8411 or similar
Elevator: 2x Mini Servos with 50 in/oz or more (DS3328)
Flaps: 2x DS 8411 or similar
Rudder: 1x DS 8411 or similar
Nosegear steering: DS 8411 or similar
Engines
We recommend 20-25lb thrust engines.
JetCat P-80SX, P-100RX, or similar.
To use bigger engines is only recommended, when the
pilot really knows how to use the throttle stick. Of course, in
vertical manouvers it is good to have the power. But - in the
horizontal manouvers you have to have the throttle stick at 1/3rd AT MOST!!! It is not,
that you would destroy the plane with too high speeds, it is just that you will kill any
scale flight appearanceif you fly with to much thrust. The full scale just did not have it
either!!!
Recommended CARF accessories
1x # 370550 Mig-15 retract set
1x # 370600 Mig-15 Fuel Tank set
3x # 961100 Electronic 2-Way retract valve
1x # 961150 Electronic 1-Way brake valve
6x # 630530 Robart cylinder 3/8" no165
You should use at least a gyro on rudder, we recommend even to use a gyro on ailerons
to make the plane “fly on rails”-performance, even in heavy winds.
Recommendedequipment

1. Nose gear installation and
nose gear doors
The front air intake duct and
the nose gear formers are
already pre-installed.
The nose gear unit is
preassembled already. Still
you might better take off the
strut, so that you can mount
and handle everything easier.
Fit the assembled nose gear
unit into the fuselage. Mark the
holes with a pencil.
Make the half round cutout
for the strut, as shown in the
folloing photos.
Drill the 5.5 mm holes and
insert the T-nuts from the top.
Check the movement of the
gear carefully, check the
angles and, especially, the
fit of the wheel inside the
air intake, when retracted.
Wheel should touch slightly when retracted
Cut out
for strut

The cylinder of the retract unit
will stick into the fuselage as
shown. This gives easy
access to the air nippels later.
File a grove in the former to
easyly slide the air nippel
through.
Now cut the nose gear door
in half, and check the fit in
the gear door cutout.
Mark the position of the hinges
atboth gear doors and
fuselage.
Use a needle file to cut
the cutoutsfor the hinges,
and glue the hinges into the
fuselage. Make sure the
point of rotation is in the
center of the fuselages
cutout, approx 3 mm inside
of the border. See drawing
on the next page.

Be very careful with the CA
glue on the hinges, as said
before, it makes the plastic
weak. Only apply glue to
the hinge tips. The rest will
be filled with epoxy, after
the correct position is
confirmed.
Finally, when the glue has
set, move the gear doors and
see if they lock anywhere. If
so, sand carefully in this
area, until they move
smoothly.
Glue in the radio
compartment floor and the
top part of the rear nose
gear formaer which will
complete your RCBox.
The front former can be
glued in now, but if you
decide to do a landing light,
leaveit out for now.
door
fuselage point of
rotation
cut out!

The gear door cypinders (we
recommend Robart #165)
are mounted to the front gear
former. Determine the
correct position of the
mountingholes, andpredrill
these holes with a small
drill bit.
to dertermine the correct
position, take the cylinder
and extend it to full. Fix the
control horn with a drop of
CA to the gear door.
After you set the angle of
the gear door to 90 deg.
when opened, you got the
right point where to fix the
cylinder.
Mount the cylinders for
both gear doors with 2 sheet
metal screws each.
To adjust the correct closing
block position use a 4mm
collar on the piston rod.
Make sure not to tighten the
screw to much when testing
to find the correct position to
not damage the piston.
The nose gear steering servo
gets mounted in the front edge
corner of the nose gear
compartment. Thecutout in
the former is already prepared.

As the nosegear will get it‘s
steering connection with two
pull-pull wires, the servo will
have to be mounted at an
angle, therfore a plywould
block of 9mm should be glued
under the rear mounting as
shownin the previous picture.

2.Ataching the wings to the fuselage
The wings are already
allingedand the mounting is
already installed in the
factory.
Slidethe carbon wing rods in
the funselage sleves and
then slide the wing on to
doublecheck propper fit of
the allingmet between
Fuselage and wing.
If necessary, sand on the
root rib sligtly toachief
perfect fit.
The wing rods are slighly
different in length, the longer
ones go in the front, the
shorter ones in the back.
Each wing gets secured to
the fuselage with two plastic
nuts as shown.

3. Installing ailerons and servos
Working Steps:
- install hinges and control horns to the ailerons
- install ailerons to the wings
- cut rear former of wings, install aileron servos and linkages.
You need:
- drill bit 5mm, round file, cutter, long phillips screw driver
- dremel milling tool, small pliers
- 5 minute epoxy (NO CA-Glue!!!)
- both wings and ailerons
- 6 Robart hinges, 2 small phenolic control horns, 2 servos
- servo installation hardware such as screws, extension
servo lead, 2 pieces M3 all thread, 4 clevis and 4 M3 nuts.
Installing the ailerons is an
easy job, installing the servos
is alittle bit more delicate....
Every aileron is mounted with 3
Robart hinge pins. Drill 3 holes
in each aileron, as seen on the
bottom photo. Open the holes
in the fiberglass to an oval
shape, so that the hinges can
movefree.
Gue in the hinges in one line
into the aileron. Use only 5
minute epoxy. Seethe drawing
for the principal of the working
hinge.
Make sure that you under-
stand, that the point of rotation
is NOT at the leading edge of
the aileron, but in the center of
thecurvedleadingcircle! So
glue the hinges into the wood
only.
Tip for the Pro’s:
In case of the MiG-15’s swept
back wing the hinges should
not be mounted perpendicular
to the leading edge of the
aileron. They should be
mounted parallel to the
aileron’s tip. Otherwise you will
have a difficult time to insert
the alileron into the wing. If you
drill the holes and glue in the
hinges parallel to the aileron tip
this makes the assenbly much
easier. Of course the axis of
rotation of any hinge will not be
in one line then, but the
flexibility of the hinges and
thereally small travel of the
ailerons allow definitely to do it
this way. So make sure that
you drill all holes in the correct
angle, in aileronAND wing.
Robart Hinge

3 mm!
3 mm!
When youtrial fit the ailerons
to the wings please check on
the photos left hand side. The
trailing edge of theaileron
steps back 3 mm from the
wing tip, andthe trailing edge
then continuesin one line to
the trailing edgeof the wing.
The little trim tab onthe aileron
steps out of this line again
about 3 mm.
Nowcut a rectangular hole into
the rear spar of each wing.
See the drawing belowfor the
exact dimensions. First, this
hole is to mount the aileron
servo, second, it allows to
bring in theflap linkageeasily.
Through this hole you can see
the servo mount for the aileron
servo. It is designed for a
standard size servo. The servo
arm will have to be mounted to
the top wing, slightly angled
backwards, so that the linkage
can go perpendicular from the
control horn directed to the
bottom surface of the wing.
The aileron control horn is
glued in from the bottom side,
and you have to cut a slot for
the linkageinto the bottom
wing skin, approx 25 mm (1”)
in front of the aileron control
horn.
But nowmount the control
horn first into both ailerons.
Mill a slot 2mm wide and
approx. 10 mm long into the
botton side of the ailerons,
about 5-6 mm (1/4”) distance
from the aileron root. Make
sure NOT to cut the
root rib aileron rib
cut out
flap spar
70 mm
2 3/4”
170 mm
6 3/4”

top side of the ailerons. Then
glue in the control horn with 5
minute epoxy, sothat the hole
is approx. 6-8mm above the
aileron surface (1/4 - 3/8th”).
Make sure the horn is placed
exactly perpendicular to the
axisof rotation.
Mounting the servo is a bit
tricky. The servo is mounted
reversed into the installed
servo mount. Go ahead with
the following steps:
1. Trial fit the servo into the
mount. Mark the position of the
servo horn on the servo mount
rib. Then take the servo out
again.
2. Now cut a 10-15 mm hand
hole into the bottom wing skin,
exactly where the servo horn is
located. You will need this
hand hole to snap on the clevis
to the servo horn, when the
servo isfinally installed. this
hole can be covered with a
small pieceof lithoplate
aluminunlater.
3. Make the linkage with the supplied M3 all thread.Adjust the length, so that it can accept an M3 clevis on
both sides.
4. Slide the linkage through the slot in the bottom wing skin and snap it on to the control horn in the
aileron. Then check the length and direction of the linkage inside the wing, whether it is matching up with
the mark you set to the servo mount rib. If not matching, adjust the length of the linkage, and if necessary,
the position of the slot. Use the hand hole to check visually the position of the clevis.
5.After all is confirmed, finally mount the servo into the rib. Snap on the linkage to the servo horn. (The
shorter the horn, the better it is, as the control horn on the aileron is also very short)
6. Now use a long Phillipsscrewdriver (if not long enough available, extend one with a piece of brass- or
carbon tube, to mount the servo screws. You should use a drop of CA glue to fix the screws on the screw
driver, and then insert them into the hole and tighten them carefully. The servo wire will be long enough to
work on it through the hole in the rear spar in the flap area, we suggest to extend the wire permanently by
soldering, better than using a stock extension wire.

5. Installing Flaps and Servos
Working Steps:
- cut flap servo hatch and mount servo
- install control horn and linkage
- install inner scale surface into the flap
You need:
- cutter (X-Acto Knife), sand paper
- CA Glue, Epoxy glue
- your wings
- 2 control horns large, 2 all thread M3, 4 clevises, 4 nuts M3,
- 2 servos, 2 milled servo mounts, balsa reinforcement parts
- 2 vacuum formed flap insides
Your MiG-15’s flaps are
already precut and hinged with
aspecial nylonelastic hinge.
The flapsare stiff already, but
will need some more rib and
spar structure, especially to
mount the scale inner surface
plates. This gives a
sophisticated scale impression
on the plane onthe ground,
when the flaps are down.
Start with cutting the servo
hatch. Locate the hatch in the
center of the flap, and see the
photos. Use panel lines as
cutting line. The wing skin cuts
easily with a cutter only.
Tip for the Pro’s:
The elastic hinge is a very
common way to hinge any
control surface, which has only
throw to one side or the throw
to the other side is at least not
too much. Contest pattern
planes, TOC-Planes, also
gliders and F5-E composite
wings have this kind of hinging.
It is one of the most reliable
methods to hinge any control
surface.
Some important notes on the
“Elastic Hinge” in General:
The hinge is set up as a layer
of special “Perlon” cloth, which
does not soak up resin during
the laminating process. This
cloth is embedded in 2 layers
of fiberglass, so that the skin
around the hinge is hard. To
make the hinge flexible, both
glass layers must be cut or
broken, to achieve flexibility in
exact the hinge point.
Done right, this kind of hinge
is unbreakable, and it will take
many thousands of deflections
with no wear and tear. You
should keep CA-Glue away
from it, though.

Take out the hatch and assemble
the servo mount. The photo shows,
which parts to use. Make sure that
you glue themilled wood parts very
well to the hatch cover. Use CA
glue first, and thenfill excessively
with epoxy and milled fiber to get a
strong bond. To sand the surfaces
with a rough sandpaper is
mandatory andnot further
mentioned inthis instruction book.
Then build a frame into the cutout
in the wing, so that you can mount
the hatch with 4 sheet metal
screws. It will be sufficient if you
use small plywood triangles and
glue these 45 deg. into each corner
of the cutout, so that the hatch can
rest on the triangles. Make sure
that the screws have a good grip in
the wood, as there is a lot of load
espcially on the flap servo. Mount
the servo in the wood frame, using
the standard servo screws.
Now assemble the balsa stick and
the control horn inside the flap. You
must understand, that the control
horn must point 30 deg. forward, to
have asymmetrical travel through
the whole throw, especially to have
enough holding power on the flap
when fully extended.
Cut 3mm balsa triangles, using the
vacuum formed pattern as a
template, so that the “ribs” are not
across the holes. then glue the
vacuum formed pattern on the
wood frame of square balsa spar
and triangle balsaribs. Make sure
that the bond of the control horn is
strong.
After that assemble the linkage
with the M3 all thread and the
clevises and nuts, and mount the
servo in the socket. Connect the
rod to control horn and servo horn,
adjust the length and check the
servo travel by moving the flap by
hand up and down. You should
have the full servo travel for 60
deg,of flapmovement!
If necessary, use a shorter servo
horn!

See the photos of a finished
flap. If youinstall the vacuum
formed sheet you should
prepare it with the holes shown
in the photos. The effect you
get is 100%realistic. Us a few
triangle balsa wood ribs to
stiffenthevacuum formed
sheet. But make sure that
these ribs areplaced in the
areas between the holes.
The bottom photoshows the
intermal construction of your
wings, so that you will get a
better understanding where
everything hasto be placed. It
shows the landing gear mount
and the rib, where to place the
aileronservo.

5. bottom rudder and servo installation
Work Steps:
- Cut the hatch and shape the parts to fit the rudder
- install the rudder with Robart hinges and torsion linkage
- set up the servo linkage and mount the servo and hatch
You need:
- cutter, dremel milling tool, round file, drill bit 5mm
- CA Glue, Epoxy glue with some milled fibre
- fuselage, one-piece-stab, bottomrudder
- milled rudder servo mount, 3 robart hinges, torsion linkage,
2 pushrods 2mm, 2 clevises M2, 2 threaded ends M2,
rudder servo, extension servo lead, 2 sheet metal screws
Your MiG-15 has only the
bottom rudder working. the top
rudder is fixed. This simplifies
the system very much, and at
the same time reduces the
chances of flutter. The one
bottom rudder is very efficient,
so that you would never feel
the need for the top rudder
working as well.
Start with cutting the servo
hatch. both sidesof the rudder
fin shows a hatch in the center.
Whichever one you pick, is up
to you. Cut one hatch out with
an X-Acto knife.
At that time you can install
alreadythe frame, to mount
the hatch lateron. 2 scrap
pieces of thin plywood do the
job, just glued in on the top
and bottom radius of the hand
hole. Use 2 sheet metal
screws, one each at the top
and bottom radius to fix the
hatch.

You will have to cut some
areas of the rudder fin and the
one-piece-stab to accept the
rounded leading edge of the
rudder. These cutouts could
not be molded in for production
reasons.
Cut both partsaccording to the
photos, assemble the parts to
confirm sufficient clearance, so
that the rudder can move
without hitting any other part.
Better make these cutouts too
big rather than too small.
Nowinstall the Robart hinges
into the rudder. You have done
this with the ailerons
successfully, so go ahead and
do the same thing with the
rudder now.
As the rudder is wider, the
slots, which give the hinges
clearance to move, must be
longer as well.
To recall, drill the holes with a
5 mm drill bit, open the holes in
the fiberglasswith a small
round file to ret oval slots, and
insert the hingeswith epoxy
glue. (Do NOT use CA glue!!!)
Then make the cutout for the
torsion linkage. This linkage is
inserted from the front, so cut
the leading edge of the rudder
accordingly to the shape of the
torsion linkage. Mill a 2 mm
wide slot in the wood spar of
the rudder, and insert the
torsionlinkage with plenty of
epoxy glue. See dimensions
givenin thephoto.
20 mm