Chef's Choice EdgeCraft E1520 User manual

© 2021 The Legacy Companies
ELECTRIC KNIFE SHARPENER
E1520 Electric
READ THESE INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE USE.
IT IS ESSENTIAL THAT YOU FOLLOW THESE
INSTRUCTIONS TO ACHIEVE OPTIMUM RESULTS.

IMPORTANT SAFEGUARDS
When using electrical appliances, basic safety precautions should
always be followed including the following:
1. Read all instructions. Every user should read this manual.
2. To protect against electrical hazards, do not immerse the
Model E1520 in water or other liquid.
3. Make sure that only clean knife blades are inserted in
Model E1520.
4. Disconnect the appliance from its power source when not in use,
before cleaning, during service and when replacing parts.
5. Avoid contacting moving parts.
6. Do not operate any appliance with a damaged cord or plug or
after the appliance malfunctions, or is dropped or damaged in
any manner.
U.S. customers: You can return your sharpener to The Legacy
Company’s factory for service where the cost of repair or
electrical or mechanical adjustment can be estimated. When the
electrical cord on this appliance is damaged, it must be replaced
by the EdgeCraft® distributor or other qualified service to avoid
the danger of electrical shock.
Outside U.S.: Please return your sharpener to your local
distributor where the cost of repair or electrical or mechanical
adjustment can be estimated. If the supply cord of this appliance
is damaged, it must be replaced by a repair facility appointed
by the manufacturer because special tools are required. Please
consult your EdgeCraft® distributor.
7. CAUTION! This appliance may be fitted with a polarized power
plug (one blade is wider than the other). To reduce the risk of
electric shock, this plug will fit in a polarized outlet only one way.
If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still
does not fit, contact a qualified electrician. Do not modify the
plug in anyway.
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8. The use of attachments not recommended or sold by The
Legacy Companies may cause fire, electric shock or injury.
9. The EdgeCraft® Model E1520 is designed to sharpen American,
European, and Asian style knives. Do not attempt to sharpen
scissors, ax blades or any blade that does not fit freely in
the slots
10.Do not let the cord hang over edge of table or counter or touch
hot surfaces.
11. When in the “ON” position (Red flash on switch is exposed when
“ON”), the EdgeCraft® sharpener should always be on a stable
countertop or table.
12.WARNING: KNIVES PROPERLY SHARPENED ON YOUR
Model E1520 WILL BE SHARPER THAN YOU EXPECT. TO AVOID
INJURY, USE AND HANDLE THEM WITH EXTREME CARE. DO
NOT CUT TOWARD ANY PART OF YOUR FINGERS, HAND
OR BODY. DO NOT RUN FINGER ALONG EDGE. STORE IN A
SAFE MANNER.
13.Do not use outdoors.
14. Appliance is not intended to be used or cleaned by children or
persons with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities or
lack of experience and knowledge of the hazards involved.
15.Do not use honing oils, water or any other lubricant with the
Model E1520.
16.For household use only
17. This appliance is intended to be used in household and similar
applications such as: - sta kitchen areas in shops, oces, and
other working environments; - farm houses; - by clients in hotels,
motels, and other residential type environments; - bed and
breakfast type environments..
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS.
English — 3

English — 4
GETTING ACQUAINTED WITH THE
MODEL E1520 SHARPENER
The Model E1520 (Figure 1) is a unique three stage sharpener with Stage 1 designed
exclusively to sharpen Asian style (15º faceted) knives. Stage 2 is designed primarily to
sharpen conventional American and European knives. Stage 3 contains the proprietary
EdgeCraft® ultrafine abrasive stropping disks designed for both Asian and
Euro/American blades to create a microscopic bevel along the edge and to polish it to
astonishing sharpness.
Asian knives (15 degrees) are sharpened first with fine diamond abrasives in Stage 1, and
then stropped and polished in Stage 3. Optionally for a stronger edge on Asian style
blades two pair of pulls can be added in Stage 2 to form a small second bevel, before
proceeding to Stage 3 which creates the third microscopic bevel and polishes the
resulting edge with micron size abrasive.
American and European knives (20 degrees) are sharpened first with fine diamond
abrasives in Stage 2, followed by stropping and polishing with micro abrasives in Stage 3.
Knives of the 20º design are not sharpened in Stage 1 unless as described later you wish
to convert this 20º edge facet to the smaller Asian angle of 15º.
Special procedures for sharpening serrated blades are included beginning on page 12.
All traditional-single sided Asian knives such as sashimi knives require special care and
must be sharpened primarily on one side of the edge as explained in later sections.
The Model E1520 is equipped with a manually actuated diamond cleaning system that
can be used, when necessary, to clean any accumulated food or sharpening debris from
the surface of the ultrafine abrasive Stage 3 polishing/stropping disks. We strongly urge
that you always thoroughly clean your knives before sharpening them. Unless you are
a heavy user of the sharpener, you will be able to sharpen for months or even a year or
more before you need to clean the stropping/polishing disks. Only if you sense a distinct
decrease in polishing eciency in Stage 3 is there any need to use this convenient feature
described on page 13.
Figure 1. EdgeCraft®Sharpener Model E1520 designed to sharpen both Asian and the Euro-American
style knives.
On/O
Switch
LeftLeft Left
Stage 2 Stage 3Stage 1
Right Right Right
Sharpen
Euro/American Stropping/Polishing
Sharpen
Asian

English — 5
Because of their thickness and heavy duty blade design we do not recommend the Model
E1520 for the much older thick European cleavers. These can be readily sharpened in Models
120, 2000 and 2100. However, the Model E1520 is ideal for sharpening Asian cleavers.
Never operate the sharpener from the back side. Use just enough downward pressure
when sharpening to ensure uniform and consistent contact of the blade edge with the
abrasive disks on each stroke. (See Suggestions, page 14.) Additional pressure is
unnecessary and will not speed the sharpening process. Avoid excessive cutting into
the plastic enclosure. Accidental cutting into the enclosure however will not functionally
impact operations of the sharpener or damage the edge.
Try a practice pull through the sharpener with the power “OFF”. Slip the knife blade
smoothly into the left slot between the left angle guide of Stage 1 or Stage 2 and the plastic
knife holding spring. Do not twist the knife. Move the blade down in the slot until you feel it
contact the diamond disk. Pull it towards you lifting the handle slightly as you approach the
tip. This practice pull will give you a feel for the spring tension. Remove the knife and read
the following instructions specific to the type of knife you will be sharpening.
DESCRIPTION OF EURO/AMERICAN
AND ASIAN BLADES
Over the years, the European and American blades have been designed to prepare foods
common to their own culture and heritage – namely for heavier foods including a wide
variety of meats and more fibrous vegetables. As a result these knives are generally
heavier, thicker, and sharpened with sturdy 20 degree facets (40 degree total angle)
(See Figure 3b). By contrast the Asian foods have been lighter, designed primarily for
seafood, and less fibrous vegetables. Consequently many of the Asian knives are thinner
and sharpened with the more delicate 15 degree facets (See Figure 3a). Some Asian
blades are very specialized such as the traditional Japanese blades which are formed as
single sided blades with a single 15 degree
facet. Sharpened correctly they are
exceedingly sharp.
In recent years, as cultures and foods of
the eastern and the western countries have
become more ubiquitous and available on
a global scale, the knives commonly
associated with those foods also have
become widely available. Many European
and American brands are selling Santoku
blades and certain traditional European
styles are now sold under Asian brands.
Figure 2. A typical kitchen knife.
Heel
Bolster
Handle
Edge
Tip
Figure 3. Typical
edge, illustrating
the primary facet.
Model 15 edge
factory edge
a. Typical Asian Edge, 15° b. Typical Euro/American Edge, 20°

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The Model E1520 is designed to sharpen virtually any of this growing variety of blades and
to maintain the angles and edge designs of their tradition.
If one can identify the manufacturer of a knife or establish its country of origin it is
relatively easy to classify the edge as Asian (15 degrees) or as American/European
(20 degrees) and to sharpen accordingly. For example the Santoku knife is
characteristically sharpened as an Asian blade (15 degrees) regardless of where the
knife is manufactured. Otherwise if you are using a given knife for heavier cutting or
chopping it probably is best sharpened as an American/European blade at 20 degrees.
If you use a small or medium size knife only for light work such as paring, peeling, or light
slicing you may prefer to sharpen it as an Asian knife at 15 degrees in order to take
advantage of its increased sharpness.
The following descriptions may be helpful in identifying your knives or in explaining their
edge structures.
EUROPEAN/AMERICAN BLADES
(20 DEGREE FACETS)
European/American fine edge blades are
universally double beveled and are sharpened on
both sides of the blade. Most of the Euro/American
knives, shown on the right, Figure 4 have a thick
cross-section designed for heavier work. However,
the associated conventional paring, fillet and utility
blades, are smaller and have a relatively thin cross-
section well suited to their intended application.
CONTEMPORARY ASIAN KNIVES
(15 DEGREE FACETS)
The most popular Asian blades; the thin, light
weight Santoku and Nakiri for example are
generally double faceted (sharpened on both faces
of the blade) as shown in Figure 5. Occasionally
Santoku knives are sold with single facets but these
are not readily available in the United States.
There are other but somewhat heavier double-
faceted Asian knives, the Deba and Gyutou,
popular in Asia, which are used for chopping hard
vegetables, for tailing and filleting fish and for
meats. These are basically Asian chefs knives
designed for heavier duty work. While these
heavier knives are commonly sold with 15 degree
facets, you may wish to sharpen them with 20º
angles. The Chinese cleaver is included in this class.
TRADITIONAL JAPANESE KNIVES
(15 DEGREE FACETS)
The traditional Japanese knife is single beveled
and has a large factory bevel A along the lower
section of the front face of the blade. These are
sold as either right handed or left handed versions
as shown in Figure 6. The large wide factory bevel
A is ground, commonly at about 10 degrees. The
most popular example of this type blade is the
sashimi knife also known as Yanagi and Takohiki,
designed as shown in Figure 6. This lengthy, thin
slicing blade is ideal for preparing very thin slices
Figure 4. European/American blades are
generally thicker.
Figure 5. Double faceted contemporary
Asian blades are usually thinner.
Figure 6. Single beveled traditional Asian
blades are thinner and sharpened primarily
on one side.

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of raw tuna or salmon. The back side of this blade
is commonly slightly hollow ground. A small single
cutting edge facet of about 15º is created below
the large factory bevel along the front side of this
type blade as shown in Figures 6 and 7 in order
to establish the geometry of the cutting edge. An
even smaller cutting microfacet (barely visible to
the unaided eye) is customarily created at the edge
on the back side of the blade to enhance the
sharpness of the finished edge. Figure 7 shows a
greatly enlarged cross-section view of a typical
traditional single-bevel Japanese knife edge as
sharpened at the factory. The large factory bevel A
serves to deflect the food slice away from the
blade as it is cut. When sharpening the traditional
Japanese blades, you should always follow these
instructions carefully. Always sharpen this style knife at 15º (Asian style) unless it is a
thicker specialized blade designed for heavy duty work. Always remember these knives
will be extremely sharp.
SHARPENING THE CONTEMPORARY ASIAN
KNIFE OR OTHER DOUBLE-FACETED EDGE AT
15 DEGREES (30º TOTAL)
Virtually all Asian blades are factory sharpened at 15 degrees. The popular Santoku blade
shown above is a typical contemporary Asian style, double faceted and each of its facets
is sharpened on each side at 15 degrees to create a total edge angle of 30º.
HONING THE EDGE IN STAGE 1
Turn ON the power and pull the blade thru the left slot (Figure 8) of Stage 1, then thru the
adjacent right slot. Repeat pairs of pulls in Stage 1 using the left and right slots on
alternate pulls. Take about 4-5 seconds for each pull of a 5” long blade. Take longer for
longer blades and slightly less if shorter. The first time you sharpen this type of knife it
may take up to 10 pair of pulls (alternating left and right slots) to fully re-angle the edge
of a thin blade. Thicker blades will require
more pulls. After 3 pairs of pulls check for a
burr as described below and as necessary
continue to make more pairs of pulls until
you create a small burr along the entire
length of the blade.
If you are sharpening a contemporary Asian
blade (which probably has been sharpened
previously at 15 degrees) you will find that
only a few (2-4) pairs of alternating pulls
(alternating left and right slots) will be
needed to develop a burr. Do not over
sharpen. When you have developed a burr
along the full blade length proceed to
Stage 3.
Figure 7. Cross-section of a typical factory
traditional Asian knife edge, magnified 50x
(right-handed).
Figure 8. Sharpen contemporary Asian knives first
in Stage 1.

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DETECTING THE BURR
To confirm the presence of a burr (see Figure 9) move your forefinger carefully across the
edge in the direction shown. Do not move your finger along the edge – to avoid cutting
your finger. If the last pull was in the right slot, the burr will appear only on the right side
of the blade as you normally hold it and vice versa. The burr, when present, feels like a
rough and bent extension of the edge; the opposite side of the edge feels very smooth
by comparison. If there is no burr continue sharpening in Stage 1, alternating left and
right slots until a full burr develops. When a burr is present along the entire blade length
proceed as below to Stage 3.
STROPPING/POLISHING THE CONTEMPORARY ASIAN EDGE IN STAGE 3
Pull the blade through the left slot (see Figure 10) and then through the right slot of Stage
3. Make 4 pairs of pulls, (each pull 4-5 seconds) alternating each pull in the left and right
slots of Stage 3. You should then make about 4 to 5 pairs of alternating faster pulls in this
Stage, about 1-2 seconds per pull for a 5 inch (12 cm) blade to put a final polish on the edge.
Check the blade for sharpness. For a sharper edge make a few more pairs of fast pulls
and check for sharpness. Repeat this procedure as needed to create an exceedingly
sharp edge.
RE-SHARPENING THE CONTEMPORARY ASIAN BLADES
Re-sharpen following the Stropping/Polishing procedure in Stage 3 as described above.
Depending on its use, you should be able to re-sharpen to a razor sharp edge 3 or more
times using only Stage 3 before finding it necessary to again hone in Stage 1. Hone in
Stage 1 only when you find it is taking too long or too many pulls in Stage 3 to bring the
edge to razor sharpness. In that event, follow the entire honing and stropping/polishing
sequence in Stages 1 and 3 as described above.
Note: To recreate the special stronger Trizor®edge (discussed in the following section) on
the Asian style blades as you re-sharpen make two pair of pulls (3 second pulls) in Stage 2
after the burr has been developed in Stage 1. Finish re-sharpening in Stage 3 as described
in this section.
DEVELOPING THE TRIZOR®TRIPLE BEVEL EDGE
FOR CONTEMPORARY ASIAN AND 15 DEGREE KNIVES
The thin 15 degree edge (30 degree total) noted for its sharpness is generally considered
slightly less durable than the 20 degree (40 degree total) faceted edge. The unique
EdgeCraft Model E1520 is designed, at your option to create in Stage 2 a small
intermediate bevel along the edge of the 15 degree facet before the final microbevel is
created in Stage 3 where the edge is polished to astonishingly sharpness.
To create the Trizor®edge, sharpen the 15 degree edge first in Stage 1 as described above
until a burr is fully developed. Then move to Stage 2: Make two pairs of pulls of about 2
seconds for a 5” blade. A small burr will exist along the edge. Do not make more pulls in
Burr
Figure 9. When you create a distinct burr along
the blade edge, it can be detected by sliding finger
across and away from the edge. Caution! See text.
Figure 10. Stropping/Polishing a contemporary
Asian knife in Stage 3.

English — 9
Stage 2. The small bevel developed by the two pair of pulls will make a micro-arch at the
very tip of the primary edge facet and leave you with a stronger edge without a noticable
change in sharpness of the knife.
Proceed to Stage 3 and follow the instructions in the proceeding section for Stropping/
Polishing in Stage 3.
SHARPENING THE TRADITIONAL (SINGLE SIDED)
JAPANESE BLADE
Traditional Japanese knives such as the sashimi blade shown above are single sided and
have a large factory bevel (Bevel A, Figure 6) on the front side of the blade. There are a
large number of manufacturers of knives of this type used widely to prepare sashimi. The
factory bevel (Bevel A) is commonly ground at about 10 degrees, but there are exceptions
as that angle is not standardized at the Asian factories. Designs of the traditional
Japanese knives and the detailed structure of the cutting edges likewise varies widely from
one manufacturer to the next, however there are some similarities. The cutting edge
consists of a small primary facet on the front face of the blade below the large factory
bevel and includes a much smaller secondary microfacet along the back face. Commonly
the back side microfacet (Figure 7) can be easily seen only with a hand magnifier. The
back face is ground flat at the factory or more commonly it is slightly hollow ground to
ensure that an eective microfacet can be formed there as part of the cutting edge.
Because of the lack of standardization, the manual approach is commonly used to sharpen
these knives in Asia. Consequently sharpening these knives continues to be dicult,
laborious and time consuming. The EdgeCraft®Model E1520 Sharpener is designed to
sharpen virtually all traditional Asian blades and to create a factory-quality edge.
Before you start to sharpen a traditional Japanese blade, examine it carefully in order to
confirm that you have the traditional single bevel blade and to determine whether you
have a right or left handed type as described on page 6, Figure 6. It is essential that you
follow carefully the sharpening procedure and sequence as described below in order to
achieve the optimum edge on your traditional blade.
Confirm which side of the blade has the large factory Bevel A. Hold the blade in your
hand (as when you are cutting) and if the large factory bevel is on the right side of the
blade, the blade is right handed. For the right handed blades sharpen only in the left slot
of Stage 1 so that only the beveled side (right side) of the edge will contact the honing
wheel. Proceed as described below.

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STEP 1
HONING TRADITIONAL JAPANESE KNIVES IN STAGE 1
(RIGHT HANDED BLADES)
In this example which assumes your
traditional blade is right handed, you must hone only in the left slot of Stage 1 (see Figure
11). The number of pulls that you will need to make depends on the factory angle of Bevel
A (Figure 6 and 7) and how dull your blade may be.
Make five (5) to ten (10) pulls (3-4 seconds) in only the left slot of Stage 1 and then check
for a burr along the entire back side of the blade edge. (The burr created in Stage 1 will
be small but can be felt as shown in Figure 9. Make certain the burr is present along
the entire length of the edge. If there is no burr or only a partial burr, continue to make
additional pulls all in the left slot about five (5) at a time and check for a burr after each
group of five (5) pulls. In general 20-30 total pulls in the left slot will be adequate to raise
a burr; it is unlikely to take more than 50 left slot pulls to create the burr. When a burr is
confirmed, proceed to Step 2.
STEP 2
STROPPING/POLISHING THE FINAL EDGE ON TRADITIONAL JAPANESE
BLADE IN STAGE 3
(RIGHT HANDED BLADES)
a. Make five to eight (5-8) slow pulls, 3-4 seconds each, only in the left slot of Stage 3
(Figure 12) and then proceed to remove the burr in step b below.
b. Make one (1) regular pull in right slot of Stage 3 along the back side of the edge.
(Pull about 3-4 seconds.)
c. Make 2-3 pair of fast pulls (1-2 seconds each) alternating in left and right slots of Stage
3. Test blade for sharpness using a thin sheet of paper. It should be razor sharp but if
not repeat steps a, b and c above.
RESHARPENING THE TRADITIONAL JAPANESE BLADE
(RIGHT HANDED)
In general you will be able to re-sharpen quickly by following the sequence of Step 2
above. Repeat this if necessary to obtain a razor sharp edge. When re-sharpening only in
Stage 3 fails to develop a sharp edge or if the edge has been substantially dulled you will
need to re-hone the edge in Stage 1. Use only the left slot of Stage 1. Generally you will find
that about five (5) re-honing pulls will be sucient in Stage 1. In any event develop a burr
before moving again to Stage 3. Finish the edge in Stage 3 following Steps 2a, b and c.
Figure 12. Strop and Polish edge of traditional
Japanese knife in Stage 3. Follow instructions
carefully.
Figure 11. Hone traditional Japanese knife only in
left slot of Stage 1 (right handed).

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SHARPENING LEFT HANDED TRADITIONAL JAPANESE BLADES
The procedure you must use with left handed blades is similar to that procedure for right
handed blades as detailed above – Except in all cases the slots you must use are reversed.
Where the sharpening procedure for right handed blades calls for use of just the left slot,
you must use only the right slot when sharpening a left-handed blade. Likewise use the
left slot where ever the right handed instructions call for using the right slot.
SHARPENING
EUROPEAN/AMERICAN KNIVES
All knives from European or American manufacturers are double sided, and consequently
must be sharpened on both sides of the blade. The edge is customarily sharpened at
20 degrees forming two facets at that angle to create a total edge angle of 40 degrees.
Where these knives are generally used for heavier tasks the stronger 20 degree faceted
edge is usually most appropriate.
Sharpening the European/American knife is a two step sharpening process, honing first in
Stage 2 and followed by stropping/polishing in Stage 3. (You do not use Stage 1 for these
knives unless you wish to convert them to the Asian angle of 15 degrees as described later.)
STEP 1: HONING, STAGE 2
Do not use Stage 1.
Stage 2 will create the primary facet of 20 degrees on the European/American knife. Turn
on the power switch. Start by slipping the blade between the left angle guide of Stage 2
(Figure 13) and the knife holding spring while pulling the blade toward you and
simultaneously moving the blade downward in the slot until it engages the diamond
coated disk. You will hear it contact the disk. Insert the blade as close as possible to the
bolster or handle. If the blade is curved lift the handle slightly as you sharpen near the tip
of the knife. Sharpen the entire blade length. Then repeat with one full length pull in the
right slot of Stage 2. Always make pairs of pulls, alternating pulls in the left and right slots
of that Stage. Each pull should be about 4-5 seconds for 5” long blade and slightly slower
for longer blades. Make about five (5) pairs of pulls, then check for a burr along the entire
edge length. (See page 8 and Figure 9). Continue with more alternating pairs of pulls until
the presence of a burr is confirmed. More pulls will be needed if the knife is very dull.
Figure 13. Honing in Stage 2 (left slot). European
and American style blade.

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STEP 2: STROPPING/POLISHING, STAGE 3
In Stage 3 make three (3) to four (4) pairs of slow pulls each about 4 seconds, alternating
in the left and right slots.
Follow this, still in Stage 3, with three (3) pairs of faster pulls each about 1-2 seconds,
alternating in the left and right slots. There should not be a noticeable burr along the edge.
Test blade for sharpness. It should be incredibly sharp. If not sharp repeat this Step 2.
RESHARPENING EUROPEAN/AMERICAN KNIVES
Re-sharpen the European/American knives whenever practical using just Stage 3
following the instructions (Step 2) above. When that fails to quickly re-sharpen, return to
Stage 2 and make two or three pairs of alternating pulls. Check for a burr along the edge
and when a burr exists proceed again to Stage 3 following the instructions in the
preceding section.
CONVERTING EUROPEAN/AMERICAN KNIFE
EDGE TO 15 DEGREE ASIAN STYLE EDGE
With the Model E1520 you can convert any European or American style knives that are
used primarily for light duty work to the 15 degree Asian edge. For example you might
consider converting light duty paring knives and thin utility blades to 15 degrees. To make
this conversion follow the Instructions for Sharpening Asian Blades, pages 7 to 9. Initial
sharpening in Stage 1 will take longer than you might expect but subsequent resharpening
time will be normal.
PROCEDURE FOR SHARPENING
SERRATED BLADES
Serrated blades are similar to saw blades with scalloped depressions and a series of
pointed teeth. In normal use the pointed teeth do most of the cutting.
Serrated blades of all types can be sharpened in the EdgeCraft®Model E1520. However,
use only Stage 3 (Figure 14) which will sharpen the teeth of the serrations and develop
microblades along the edge of these teeth. Generally five (5) to ten (10) pairs of
alternating pulls in left and right slots of Stage 3 will be adequate. If the knife is very dull
more pulls will be needed. If the knife edge has been severely damaged thru use make one
fast pull (2-3 seconds for an 8” blade) in each of the right and left slots of Stage 2, then
make a series of pulls in Stage 3, alternating right and left slots. Excessive use of Stage 2
will remove more metal along the edge than is necessary in order to sharpen the teeth.
Because serrated blades are saw-like structures, the edges will never appear to be as “sharp”
as the edge on a straight edge knife. However, their tooth-like structure can be helpful – for
example to break the skin on hard crusty foods or to cut tough paper based materials.
Figure 14. Use only Stage 3 for sharpening
serrated knives.

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DRESSING OF STROPPING/POLISHING DISKS – STAGE 3
The Model E1520 is equipped with a built-in system to manually clean/dress the
stropping/polishing disks in Stage 3. In the event these disks become glazed with grease,
food or sharpening debris, they can be cleaned and reshaped by actuating the manual
lever on the rear of the sharpener. This lever is located within a recess as shown in
Figure 15 on the lower left corner as you face the rear of the sharpener. To actuate the
cleaning/dressing tool, make sure the power is “ON” and simply press the small lever in
the recess to the right, hold about 3-4 seconds and then press to the left holding for 3-4
seconds. When the lever is moved in one direction, the dressing tool cleans and reshapes
the active surface of one stropping/polishing disk. By moving the lever in the opposite
direction you clean the other disk.
Use this clean/dress mechanism only if the Stage 3 white disks are seriously darkened and
when Stage 3 no longer appears to be stropping/polishing well. Using this tool removes
material from the surface of the Stage 3 disks and hence, if used excessively, it will
unnecessarily remove too much of the abrasive surface – wearing the disks prematurely.
If that should occur, factory replacement of the disks will become necessary. If you clean
your knives regularly before sharpening you will likely need to clean or dress the Stage 3
disks less than once a year.
Figure 15. Use dressing tools sparingly.

English — 14
SUGGESTIONS
1. Always clean all food, fat and foreign materials from the blade surfaces before
sharpening or resharpening. If badly soiled, use detergent and water to clean.
2. Some contemporary Asian knives and Granton type blades are dimpled and some
contemporary and traditional Asian blades are made of layered Damascus steel. All
of these should be sharpened accordingly to these instructions depending solely on
whether the knife style is contemporary (two facets) or a traditional single facet
Asian blade.
3. Always pull the blades at the recommended speed and at a constant rate over length
of blade. Never interrupt or stop the motion of the blade when in contact with
abrasive disks.
4. Carefully follow the detailed procedures for each type blade for best results and to
extend the useful life of your knives. The sharpening sequence is especially important
with the single sided traditional Asian blades.
5. The edge of the knife blade, while sharpening, should remain in contact with the
abrasive disks as the knife is withdrawn from the guiding slot. To sharpen the blade
near the tip of a curved blade, lift the handle up slightly as you approach the tip of
the blade but just enough so that the edge as it is being sharpened maintains audible
contact with the honing or stropping disk.
6. To increase your proficiency with the EdgeCraft®Model E1520, learn how to detect a
burr along the edge (as described on page 8). While you might be able to sharpen
well without using this technique, it is the fastest way to determine when you have
sharpened suciently in the preliminary steps. This will help you avoid oversharpening
and ensure incredibly sharp edges every time. Cutting a tomato or a piece of paper is a
convenient method of checking for finished blade sharpness.
7. Use only light downward pressure when sharpening – just enough to establish secure
contact with the abrasive disk.
8. If your knife has a significant choil you may find it helpful to place your index finger
within or just behind the choil (see Figures 16 and 17) as you insert the blade in the
sharpener (Be careful! The tip of the choil may be sharp). Your finger can act as a
“stop” and prevent you from inserting the blade so far that the choil area will catch on
the front stop-bar of the sharpener as you withdraw the blade. A little practice will help
you perfect this technique. As you insert the blade let your finger slide down the front
of the sharpener.
Figure 16. If your blade has a significant choil it
may be helpful to place a finger behind it as shown
when sharpening.
Figure 17. Insert your index finger as shown behind
the choil as the knife is inserted into the sharpening
slot (see Suggestion 8.)
Choil

English — 15
9. Used correctly, you will find you can sharpen the entire blade to within 1/8” of the
bolster or the sharpener handle. This is a major advantage of the EdgeCraft®Model
E1520 compared to other sharpening methods—especially important when sharpening
chef’s knives where you need to sharpen the entire blade length in order to maintain
the curvature of the edge line. If your chef’s knives have a heavy, thick bolster near the
handle extending to the edge, a commercial grinder can modify or remove the lower
portion of the bolster so it will not interfere with the sharpening action, allowing you to
sharpen the entire blade length.
10. The stropping/polishing disks in Stage 3 are designed to last for years of use, however
you can maximize their useful life by periodically modifying your sharpening pattern
in the preceeding Stage used. The burr developed in the preceeding Stage will mildly
wear the stropping/polishing disk it first contacts in Stage 3. Vary your last pull in the
preceeding Stage (Stage 1 or Stage 2) by sometimes making the last pull on the left
disk and at other times finish on the right disk of that Stage.
11. Do not attempt to use this sharpener to sharpen either ceramic knives or scissors.
NORMAL MAINTENANCE
No lubrication is required for any moving parts, motor, bearings, or sharpening surfaces.
There is no need for water on abrasives. The exterior of the sharpener may be cleaned by
carefully wiping with a damp cloth. Do not use detergents or abrasives
Once a year or as needed you should remove metal dust that will accumulate inside the
sharpener from repeated sharpenings. Remove the small rectangular clean-out cover
(Figure 18) that covers an opening on the underside of the sharpener. You will find metal
particles adhered to a magnet attached to the inside of that cover. Simply rub o or brush
o accumulated filings from the magnet with a paper towel or tooth brush and reinsert
the cover in the opening. If larger amounts of metal or other dust have been created
you can shake out any remaining dust through the bottom opening when the cover is
removed. After cleaning, replace the cover securely with its magnet in place.
Figure 18. Removing cover under base to clean out
metal dust (See Normal Maintenance section).

English — 16
SERVICE
In the event post-warranty service is needed, return your sharpener to The Legacy
Companies factory where the cost of repair can be estimated before the repair is
undertaken. Outside the USA, contact your retailer or national distributor.
Please include your return address, daytime telephone number and a brief description of
the problem or damage on a separate sheet inside the box. Retain a shipping receipt as
evidence of shipment and as your protection against loss in shipment.
Made in the U.S.A. with U.S. and globally sourced materials. chefschoice.com
This product may be covered by one or more EdgeCraft patents and/or patents pending as marked on the
product. Chef’sChoice®, EdgeCraft®, Diamond Hone®, EdgeSelect® and the overall design of this product are
registered trademarks of the EdgeCraft Corporation.
Conforms to UL Std. 982 Certified to CAN/CSA Std. C22.2 No. 64
Certified to EN 60335-1, EN 60335-2, EN 55014-1+A1, EN 61000-3-2, EN 61000-3-3
© 2021 The Legacy Companies
H21 En/Fr/Sp C5282z2
The Legacy Companies
149 Cleveland Drive, Paris KY 40361 U.S.A.

E1520 Électrique
© 2021 The Legacy Companies
VEUILLEZ LIRE CES INSTRUCTIONS AVANT
TOUTE UTILISATION. IL EST ESSENTIEL QUE VOUS
RESPECTIEZ CES INSTRUCTIONS POUR OBTENIR DES
RÉSULTATS OPTIMAUX.
AIGUISEUR DE COUTEAU

CONSIGNES DE
SÉCURITÉ IMPORTANTES
Lors de l’utilisation d’appareils électriques, des précautions
élémentaires de sécurité doivent toujours être respectées,
notamment :
1. Lisez toutes les instructions. Tout utilisateur doit lire ce manuel.
2. Afin d’éviter les accidents d’origine électrique, ne plongez pas
modèle E1520 dans l’eau ou dans tout autre liquide.
3. Assurez-vous de n’insérer que des lames de couteau propres
dans le modèle E1520.
4. Débranchez l’appareil de sa source d’alimentation lorsqu’il n’est
pas utilisé, avant le nettoyage, pendant le service et lors du
remplacement de pièces.
5. Évitez de toucher les pièces mobiles.
6. N’utilisez aucun appareil dont le câble ou la prise est
endommagé, ou si l’appareil ne fonctionne pas correctement,
est tombé ou est endommagé.
Clients américains : Vous pouvez renvoyer votre aiguiseur à la
société The Legacy Companies pour sa maintenance, qui pourra
estimer le coût d’une réparation ou d’un réglage électrique ou
mécanique. Si le câble électrique de l’appareil est endommagé,
il doit être remplacé par un distributeur EdgeCraft® ou tout autre
service qualifié afin d’éviter tout risque d’électrocution.
Hors États-Unis : Veuillez retourner votre aiguiseur à votre
distributeur local qui pourra estimer le coût d’une réparation ou
d’un réglage électrique ou mécanique. Si le câble d’alimentation
de cet appareil est endommagé, il devra être remplacé par un
atelier agréé par le fabricant car l’utilisation d’outils spéciaux est
nécessaire. Veuillez contacter votre distributeur EdgeCraft®.
7. ATTENTION ! Cet appareil peut être fourni avec une prise
électrique polarisée (l’une des fiches est plus large que l’autre).
Afin de réduire le risque d’électrocution, cette prise ne pourra
être insérée dans une prise femelle que dans un seul sens. Si la
prise ne rentre pas complètement dans la prise femelle, essayez
de changer de sens. Si elle ne rentre toujours pas, veuillez
contacter un électricien qualifié. Ne réalisez aucune modification
sur la prise.
Français — 2

8. L’utilisation d’accessoires non recommandés ou non vendus
par la société The Legacy Companies peut entraîner des
incendies, des électrocutions ou des blessures.
9. Le modèle E1520 de EdgeCraft® est conçu pour aiguiser les
couteaux de types américain, européen et asiatique. N’essayez
pas d’aiguiser des ciseaux, des lames de haches ou toute lame
qui ne s’insère pas facilement dans les fentes.
10.Ne laissez pas pendre le câble d’alimentation au-dessus
des bords d’une table ou d’un comptoir, ou toucher des
surfaces chaudes.
11. Lorsqu’il est en position “MARCHE” (le témoin lumineux rouge
est allumé lorsqu’il est en “MARCHE”), l’aiguiseur EdgeCraft® doit
toujours se trouver sur une table ou un comptoir stable.
12.ATTENTION : LES COUTEAUX CORRECTEMENT AFFÛTÉS
AVEC VOTRE Modèle E1520 SERONT PLUS TRANCHANTS
QUE CE QUE À QUOI VOUS VOUS ATTENDEZ. AFIN D’ÉVITER
TOUTE BLESSURE, UTILISEZ ET MANIPULEZ-LES AVEC
BEAUCOUP DE PRÉCAUTIONS. NE COUPEZ PAS EN
DIRECTION DE VOS DOIGTS, DE VOTRE MAIN OU DE VOTRE
CORPS. NE FAITES PAS COURIR VOTRE DOIGT LE LONG DU
FIL. RANGEZ-LES DE MANIÈRE SÛRE.
13.Ne l’utilisez pas à l’extérieur.
14. Cet appareil n’est pas prévu pour être utilisé par des
personnes(y compris les enfants) dont les capacités physiques,
sensorielles ou mentales sont réduites, ou des personnes
dénuées d’expérience ou de connaissance.
15.N’utilisez pas d’huile d’aiguisage, d’eau ou tout autre lubrifiant
avec le modèle E1520.
16.Cet appareil est destiné à être utilisé dans des applications
domestiques et similaires telles que : - les cuisines du personnel
dans les magasins, les bureaux et autres environnements de
travail ; - les maisons de ferme ; - par les clients des hôtels,
motels et autres environnements de type résidentiel ;
- des environnements de type chambres d’hôtes.
CONSERVEZ CES INSTRUCTIONS.
Français — 3

Français — 4
SE FAMILIARISER AVEC L’AIGUISEUR MODÈLE E1520
Le modèle E1520 (Figure 1) est un aiguiseur unique comportant trois modules. Le module
1 est conçu exclusivement pour aiguiser les couteaux de style asiatique (faces de 15°). Le
module 2 est conçu principalement pour aûter les couteaux conventionnels américains
et européens. Le module 3 comporte les disques d’émorfilage aux abrasifs ultrafins,
technologie breveté de EdgeCraft®, conçus pour les lames asiatiques et aussi pour les
lames euro/américaines qui permettent de former un biseau microscopique le long du fil
et de le polir pour obtenir un tranchant incroyable.
Les couteaux asiatiques (15 degrés) sont d’abord aiguisés à l’aide d’abrasifs fins de
diamant dans le module 1, puis on élimine le morfil et on les polit dans le module 3. Afin
d’obtenir un tranchant plus solide, on peut éventuellement ajouter deux paires de
passages dans le module 2 afin de former un deuxième petit biseau, avant de passer au
module 3, qui va créer le troisième biseau microscopique et polir le fil obtenu à l’aide
d’abrasifs de la taille du micron.
Les couteaux américains et européens (20 degrés) sont d’abord aiguisés avec des abrasifs
fins de diamant dans le module 2, puis on élimine le morfil et on les polit avec des
micro-abrasifs dans le module 3. Les couteaux de conception à 20° ne doivent pas être
aiguisés dans le module 1, à moins que vous ne désiriez transformer leurs faces de
tranchant à 20° en un angle asiatique plus aigu de 15° comme décrit plus loin.
Les procédures spécifiques à l’aûtage des lames dentées sont décrites à partir de la
page 12.
Tous les couteaux asiatiques traditionnels à tranchant simple face tels que les couteaux à
sashimi nécessitent un soin particulier et doivent être aiguisés initialement d’un seul coté
du tranchant comme expliqué dans les chapitres suivants.
Le modèle E1520 est équipé d’un système de nettoyage actionné manuellement qui
peut être utilisé, si nécessaire, afin de nettoyer la nourriture ou les débris d’aiguisage
accumulés à la surface des disques abrasifs ultrafins d’émorfilage/polissage. Nous vous
recommandons vivement de nettoyer minutieusement vos couteaux avant de les aiguiser.
À moins que vous ne soyez un utilisateur intensif de l’aiguiseur, vous devriez pouvoir
Figure 1. Aiguiseur modèle E1520 EdgeCraft®, conçu pour aiguiser aussi bien les couteaux de type
asiatique que ceux de type euro-américain.
Interrupteur de
mise en marche
GaucheGauche Gauche
Module 2 Module 3
Module 1
Droite Droite Droite
Aiguisage
Euro/Américain Émorfilage/Polissage
Aiguisage
Asiatique