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Festool Domino Machine User manual

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Getting the Most From the Festool
Domino Machine
Text and Photos by Jerry Work
For many woodworkers the construction of a butterfly leaf dining table like the small one
shown here is considered a rite of passage because it is very difficult to do correctly.
The table tops slide apart to reveal a self storing leaf that folds in the middle. By pulling
up on one half of the leaf both halves rise up to perfectly align with the table top both on
the flat top surface as well as along each edge. Then the two halves of the top slide to-
gether to engage the butterfly leaf in its deployed position.
Properly executed,
this operation is a
thing of beauty in
and of itself. Most
people watching a
butterfly leaf table
open for the first
time seem to be
transfixed as they
watch everything
side so effortlessly
into perfect align-
ment. And, watching
the leaf fold down
and store below the
table top is no less
captivating.
I often caution my
customers to be
prepared for the first
dinner party on their
new table. If the
guests see the butterfly leaf deploy, they
usually will stand around opening and
closing it time after
time just because it
is fun and interesting
to do.
Using conventional
tools and techniques
it is very difficult to
get all the pivot
points in exactly the
right places so de-
signing and building
such a table can be
quite complex and
intimidating. But, as
we will see while we
follow the construc-
tion of the table
shown here from
start to finish, using
the innovative Fes-
tool Domino ma-
chine and the self
aligning, self squaring and self locking
features of the sliding dovetail joint, build-
ing tables such as this one are well within
your grasp whether you are a hobbyist
just starting out or a seasoned furniture
maker with years of experience under
your belt.
The Domino machine is the key.
Also in this manual we will follow the con-
struction of a conventional four leg with
side skirt style of table, an upright chest
with gracefully flaring legs and sliding
doors, and a unique “convertible” coffee
table that can quickly change look and
function.
All of these are easy to build by using
the Domino machine and are all within
your reach as well.
How should we describe this innova-
tive tool?
Early in the U.S. introduction planning I
was asked by Festool USA how I
thought the machine should be de-
scribed. Because I had lots of experi-
ence with loose tenon joinery using the
three dimensional sliding table on my
industrial slot mortising machine, I first
described it in those terms. At that time I
wrote that I would describe the Domino
machine as, “a portable loose tenon
jointer with great positional accuracy.”
And, as we will discover moving through
this manual, it certainly is that.
However, as I used the Domino machine
on more and different projects, it evolved
in my head to something much more than
those words could capture. The Domino
machine solves a whole range of wood-
working issues from joining two pieces of
wood in all six ways one can joint two
pieces together, to handling a myriad of
wood movement problems that are al-
ways a part of building with solid woods,
to precisely aligning two or more compo-
nents during assembly operations, to
making hidden latches, stops and door
slides, and much more.
As you progress through this manual I
think you will enjoy seeing examples of all
of these uses and the opportunity to learn
more about this truly remarkable and
unique woodworking tool.
The author, Jerry Work, designs
and hand crafts fine furniture in
the 1907 Masonic Temple build-
ing in historic Kerby, OR, where
visitors are always welcome.
[email protected]
www.jerrywork.com
What is a Domino Machine?
Let’s begin by exploring the tool
itself. It is made up of a body
with a unique mechanism that
both rotates and oscillates a
drill-like cutter bit. The body
slides nearly effortlessly on two
hardened steel shafts built into
the fence section of the tool.
Once aligned where you want
the cut to be made, you push
the body towards the work piece
to produce an elongated slot,
most commonly called a “mor-
tise.”
The Domino machine fence and
positioning systems allow you to
center that slot both horizontally
and vertically very accurately.
Built into the machine are adjust-
ments for the width and the depth of the
slot. The cutters can be interchanged
easily and quickly and come in 5mm,
6mm, 8mm and 10mm diameters produc-
ing slots of those widths.
The idea is to cut a mortise slot
into which you can insert a pre-
made wooden tenon which Fes-
tool calls a “domino,” hence the
name of the machine.
You can make your own if you
want to, but the pre-made Fes-
tool tenons are extremely
strong, very precisely dimen-
sioned to fit perfectly into the
mortise slot cut by the Domino
machine and they are quite
economical to buy. My recom-
mendation is to simply use the
Festool dominos and not try to
reinvent that wheel on your own.
The pictures on this page show the Dom-
ino in broad view. As we come in closer
with the detailed photos on the next few
pages we will see the many precise ad-
justments and alignment aids.
The Domino Body
This sequence of photos shows how the
body and fence can easily be separated
by simply raising the lock tab as shown
here. The wrench used to change cutters
is ideal for this. Hook the edge of the
wrench beneath the lock tab and lift it up.
The fence will start to slide off the body
as shown in the photos left and above
exposing the rotating and oscillating cut-
ter (red arrow).
In the photo above you can see the two
hardened shafts (green arrow pointing to
the right shaft) that the body slides on as
you push the body in to cut the mortise
slot. They ensure the mortise slot will be
exactly parallel to the base of the Domino
machine, one of the keys to Domino’s
impressive accuracy.
Here is a view of the under side of the
body. The round housing held by the four
screws is gear driven to move the cutter
tip back and forth in a horizontal arc while
the cutter is also rotated to make the cut.
The cutters can be easily changed as
they just screw onto the threaded end of
the gear-driven shaft as shown by these
photos.
Above, the wrench is positioned on the
flats of the cutter tip. The shaft lock but-
ton is on the side of the Domino body
right where the thumb on one hand can
easily press it while you loosen or tighten
the cutter with the wrench held in the
other hand. In the photo above I moved
my thumb down so you can see the shaft
lock lever (red arrow).
The cutters are available in four different
diameters, 5, 6, 8 and 10mm. The 5mm
cutter comes standard with the machine
itself and the four cutter set shown above
comes with the set of domino te-
nons.
The photo below shows the cutters with
their respective Domino tenons for size
comparison.
Depth of cut is controlled by a lever on
the side of the Domino body (red arrow
above and in detail below). Settings
are for depths of cut of 12, 15, 20, 25
and 28mm. This is the depth meas-
ured from the front of the fence to the
bottom of the mortise. Lift the black
safety catch and move the green depth
lever to align with the desired depth of
cut. To allow for some glue build up in
the bottom of the mortise as the tenon
is inserted, the actual length of the Fes-
tool supplied tenons is about 1.5mm
shorter than the depth of the
corresponding mortise.
The top green knob turns to
set the desired width of cut.
Three settings are provided.
The narrowest width (the set-
ting shown below) matches
the supplied domino tenon for
each domino (tenon) thick-
ness. The 5mm thick domi-
ons are just under 19mm wide
scaling up to the just under
23mm width of the 10mm
thick dominos.
At the minimum width of cut setting
(the way the width knob is set in this
photo) the cutter bit oscillation is
13.7mm. With a 5mm cutter bit the
overall cut mortise slot will be 13.7 + 5
= 18.7mm wide, nominally 19mm.
Move the knob to the intermediate
width of cut setting and the oscillation
increases from 13.7mm to 19.2mm
resulting in a slot 24.5mm wide for the
5mm cutter bit. The tenon still fits tightly
into the sides of the
mortise slot, but the
slot is longer than the
width of the tenon al-
lowing some assembly
adjustment room side
to side. The third width
setting increases the
oscillation to 23.2mm
resulting in a 28.2mm
mortise slot which pro-
vides close to 10mm
side to side adjustment
room.
The ability to vary the
slot width is key to
many of the Domino
machine attributes. As
indicated, at the narrow
setting the domino tenon fits tightly into
the slot. At the wider settings the thick-
ness of the domino tenon fits tightly into
the mortise slot front to back, but the
domino tenon is free to shift side to side.
When you cut a tight mortise (width knob
at the narrowest setting) at the same lo-
cation on two different boards, that one
M&T joint will keep the two boards
aligned as desired. Placing wider mortise
slots along the same face of one of the
two boards means the remaining domino
mortise slots can be cut with some mar-
gin for positional error while still allowing
the joint to close properly, a great advan-
tage over dowel joints where the posi-
tional accuracy must be dead on or the
joint simply will not close up at all.
Since the majority of the strength of a
loose tenon joint is derived from the fit
and glue surface on the faces of the mor-
tise slot and the faces of the tenon, little
strength is lost when the width of the mor-
tise is greater than the width of the tenon.
We will see numerous examples of when
and where you want to use tight fitting or
over-width mortise slots as we progress
through the manual and show actual pro-
jects in process.
The Domino Fence
Now let’s look at the adjustments on the
fence part of the Domino machine. In this
photo we are looking at the back side of
the fence with the body removed. You
can see one of the two hardened steel
rods that the body slides on as it moves
the cutter in and out of the work piece
keeping the mortise slot parallel with the
base of the fence.
The first adjustment to consider is the
height the fence is above the horizontal
centerline of the cutter. That is shown
by a scale and pointer. In the close up
photo below the fence is set to be exactly
10mm above the centerline of the cutter.
A lock lever secures the fence at the de-
sired height. The fence moves up and
down on machined ways so it remains
exactly parallel with the cutter at all
heights.
For rapidly setting the fence to common
heights above the horizontal centerline of
the bit, a stop block (shown in detail
above) is provided that slides back and
forth to reveal different step heights. The
fence sits on the top of a stop
block step, positioning it exactly
an indicated distance above the
horizontal centerline of the cutter.
The stop block (shown here at a
setting of 20mm) is marked in
units corresponding to the overall
thickness of the work piece for
which the cutter will be exactly
centered. In this case the stop
block is set for a 20mm thick work
piece resulting in the pointer
(photo left) indicating that the cen-
terline of the cutter will be at
10mm.
The stop block is marked to center the
bit on work pieces 16, 20, 22, 25, 28, 36
and 40mm thick.
You can also simply use the height
scale to set the fence any distance you
want it to be above the horizontal cen-
terline of the bit within the range of 7mm
to 30mm.
The minimum height of 7mm ensures
that a 10mm cutter will leave a minimum
of 2mm of wall between the upper side
of the mortise slot and the upper side of
the work piece so you don’t inadvertently
drive the cutter into the bottom side of the
fence.
The fence also rotates from 90 degrees
angle relative to the edge of the work
piece (meaning the fence is parallel with
the cutter) to zero degrees relative to the
edge of the work piece (meaning the cut-
ter is moving perpendicular to the fence
the way it is shown in the photo left).
Ball detent stops are also provided for
common in-
termediate
settings, or
you can sim-
ply set the
angle with the
protractor
scale and
pointer. The
pointer is ad-
justable so
you can cali-
brate the an-
gles to be
dead on.
Now let’s look
at the variety
of alignment
marks to help
you place the
mortise slots
exactly where
you want
them.
This first photo is looking at the front of
the Domino fence with the fence piece
raised to the zero degree angle for clarity
of view. The slot in the center towards
the bottom (red arrow) is where the cutter
emerges when the body is pushed to-
wards the work piece to make the mortise
cut. The cutter centerline is 10mm up
from the base of the fence assembly
(green arrow above).
Two alignment pins are spring loaded and
are set 74mm apart so each is 37mm
from the centerline of the cutter.
The right and left spring loaded alignment
pins are shown in detail below. The right
pin is mounted in an eccentric with a
screwdriver slot by which you can turn
the eccentric to bring the two pins into
exact alignment the same distance
from the vertical centerline of the
cutter. The left pin is fixed in posi-
tion 37mm from the vertical center-
line of the cutter and 24mm from the
outside of the pin to the outside
edge of the fixed portion (base) of
the fence (blue arrow).
The pins are 5mm in diameter so
the base is machined to be 132mm
wide or 66mm from outside edge to
vertical center of cutter. All of these
measurements are very useful to
keep in mind as they each can play
a role in helping you precisely posi-
tion the center of the Domino mor-
tise slots.
When you first get your machine, make
sure the adjustable fence height pointer is
exactly on 10mm when the fence is on
the stop block marked 20mm, the angle
pointer is exactly on mark, and the dis-
tance between the two spring loaded pins
is 74mm. Adjust the right pin shown be-
low if necessary.