Gravely D User manual

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assembly should then be mounted on the cultivator by means of two cross bolts,
the ends of which protrude from either side of the tank shield.
The throttle and clutch controls may next be attached and adjusted.
The end of the throttle wire should be entered into the eye clamp on the
carburettor lever and the pinch screw tightened. Make certain the handle
lever can operate the whole carburettor lever movement. To secure the clutch
control firsl remove the outer nut which is loosely screwed to the clutch rod
on the riglit of the machine. The right angled bracket at the end of the handle
control rod should then be pushed along the clutch rod until it butts with the
inner nut. It should then be locked in this position by tightenirrg the outer
nut against it.
BEFORE STARTING.
It is e,ssential before starting the new Gravely Cultivator to plenish the
engine and gearbox with lubricating oil.
First remove the forward tank cap and two-thirds fill with engine oil.
We recommend Triple Shell oil, and about four pints will be required to filI
the tank to this level. The rear tank should be filled with petrol.
Next remove the gearbox oil filler plug. This is on the right side of
the machine towards the top of the countershaft gear housing. The gearbox
should be supplied at this point with one-third of a pint of Shell Spirax c6 C "
gear oil.
Overseas customers will find the appropriate engine and gearbox oil
recommendations printed on their tractor name plate.
A small level check plug is fitted at the front and near the bottom of the
gearcase inside the right hand frame plate. Do not overfill beyond this point,
and it should be noted that cold gear oil will take a long time to flow to the
bottom of the gearcasc, so that although enough oil is supplied it will not show
for some time at the level plug. An excess of lubricant in this gearbox will
cause bad clutch slip.
If this machine is in daily use we recommend that the oil levels be regularly
checked, the engine oil darly, and the gearbox at least weekly.
Finally the air cleaner should be removed, dipped in clean engine oil,
drained and re-fixed on the handle.
STARTING.
The:machine, if it has been supplied with lubricants as detaileri in the
previous paragraph, may now be started.
First switch on the oil and petrol supply by turning down the tank taps
into the vertical position,' Both these taps will be found under the petrol and
oil tanks.
The clutch lever should then be fully withdrawn, and held in that position
by rotating the catch lever, whrch is just in front of the clutch lever, backwards
until it engages with the notch cut in the clutch lever. This ensures that the
machine is locked in neutral and will not run away directly the engine is started.
With a cold engine the choke should be closed for starting. To do this
the small Ioop attached to the lower qarburettor lever should be hooked over

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RUNNING ADJUSTMENTS.
When the machine is working one of the most important items to maintain
in correct adjustment is the clutch.
If, when the clutch lever is fully withdrawn, the machine tries to move
forward on starting the engine, this will be due to insufficient withdrawal of
the clutch members from each other. To remedy this the nuts clamping the
right-angled connector bracket to the clutch rod will need adjustment. lJnscrew
the inner nut a few turns towards the clutch, then tighten the othet nut down
to it. Repeat this if necessary until the machine no longer tries to move
forward when the engine is running with the clutch lever withdrawn.
The other adjustment to the clutch is that required if clutch slip occurs
when the machine is working. This fault is symptomised by the machine
remaining stationary or moving only very slowly u'hen the clutch lever is
released, even though the engine is set at full throttle and revolves at high speed.
This slippage will be due to either one or more of the following three causes.
Firstly the clutch may be held slightly withdrawn, even when the clutch lever
is fully released.
To cure this, the outer nut on the clutch rod should be unscrewed a few
turns away from the clutch and the inner nut then tightened against it. Repeat
this until no slip occurs when the engine is driving the cultivator. After
making this adjustment withdraw the clutch lever and observe if there is any
tendency for the machine to inch forward. If this occurs the clutch has been
slightly over adjusted and the nuts on the clutch rod should be moved back a
turn or two to cure this.
Secondly the clutch lining may have worn sufficiently to require adjustment
of the control. This should be carried out as described for the first fault.
Lastly the friction faces in the clutch may have become oily due to an
excess of oil from the gearbox having seeped between the clutch members'
To cure this, first drain any excess of oil from the gearbox. Next remove
the fan, which is also the female clutch cone, and clean off both working faces
of the clutch with clean petrol.
The fan removal is achieved by first removing the fan cover, which is
held in position on the right of the machine by six cheese headed screws into
the geaicase and one hexagon head screw into the air manifold. Next the
starter pulley may be removed by removing the two screws securing it to the
fan. Finally the central nut securing the fan should be removed and the fan
carefully prised from its taper seating. Care should be taken not to lose the
key fitted in the taper on the fan shaft.
In addition to this, several adjustments should be made at regular intervals
of not less than one month if thd best performance is to be obtained from the
cultivator engine.
First the sparking plug should be removed and thoroughly cleaned. The
plug gap should be checked and set at .015-.018 in. by use of a feeler gauge.
(As the cultivator may be left stationary for considerable periods in the open,
it is advisable to keep a spare plug available.)
Next remove the cover over the end of the magneto, and clean off the
contact breaker assembly. Rotate the engine until the points are fully open
and check the gap between them. This should be set to .015 in'

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may become blocked, by any dirt in the petrol, and cause the engine to stall.
In this case remove the jet needle with its body by unscrewing the narrow
hexagon on the body. Ihis will expose the main jet which may be removed
with a screwdriver. After cleaning both the jet and needlc replace them in the
carburettor.
The needle will then require adjustment. Screw the needle right horne by
turning the tommy bar clockwise as far as it will go. Then unscrew the needle
l] full turns. This wiil be near the correct setting which may then be finely
adjusted by trying the machine with the needle set a little either side of this
position.
MAINTENANCE.
At regular intervals, of about six months, but depending on the amount of
work the machine has done, certain overhaul tasks should be performed.
First the engine should be decarbonised and the valves reground on tl.reir
seats. This is best carried out by completely removing the cylinder head.
To do this the air manifold and cylinder cover should be detached. Disconnect
the sparking plug lead and remove the cylinder head, being careful not to
damage the gasket between the head and cylinder. Tap off the exhaust pipe.
Unscrew the lower valve covers and lemove both plungers and plunger guides.
The cylinder holding down nuts may now be released and the cylinder removed,
taking care not to damage the joint washer under the cylinder.
The valve gear should then be removed from the cyiinder and all carbon
removed from in the ports and also from the cylinder head, piston crown and the
valves. Care should bc taken not to allow any dirt or carbon to enter the
crankcase whilst the cylinder is removed.
The valves should be re-ground on their seats and then all parts washed
off u'ith clean petrol or paraffin.
On re-assembly care should be taken with the gasket and joint washers
to ensure that no oil or gas leaks occur, also the tappets and sparking plug
should be adjusted to their correct settings.
The clutch should also receive attention at this time. It should be removed,
cleaned and inspected for wear. A new lining is 3116 in. thick, and this may
be used as a basis for judging wear. Replace the clutch after this overhaul
and adjust the operating rod.
Before replacing the fan cover clean out the air passage to the cylinder.
Inspect the whole machine and tighten up any screws or bolts which may
have worked loose.
Drain thc lubricating oil tank and clean out with petrol to remove any
dirt or metal which may have found its way into the tank. Refill with fresh
lubricating oil.
Wash off all painted surfaces, and touch up with paint where required.
Finally when the paint rs dry rub a clean oily rag over the machine.
A machine serviced in this manner will have a very much longer life than
one that is neglected and allowed to rust away.
When it becomes necessary through wear to replace or repair any part of
the engine or gearbox, we would advise the owner, unless he has skilled labour

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Pgorocn,qpH
Prnr No. NuMBER NavB No. prn
MacntNn
I
I
I
1
1
1
I
1
2
1
I
1
1
I
I
6
4
4
4
2
I
I
1
2
4
1
4
4
4
1101
1102
I108
I I 08a.
2101
1309
13r0
1 s08
25 l8
701 P
1 507
1812
1814
2518
t] t1
t29 S
1 208
211 N
304 W
1301
1302
I 303
I 501
503 K
1304
1 308
151 1
121 S
301 W
(
I
{
I
J
I
2
38
-) -l
36
30
34
35
31
29
32
34
31
28
39
40
43
4t
24
42
49
Inner Crankcase \
ourer crankcase I Not obtainable
I sepa ra tely.
Sleeve I Ontv as Assembly
Dowel for Sleeve J
Actuating Stud for Sleeve
Drive Shaft bush-Inner Crankcase
Bush for Sleeve
lnner Camshaft Bush
Oil Connection Elbow-Inner Crankcase
Oilway Plug-Inner Crankcase
Outer Camshaft Bush
Drain Plug-Outer Crankcase
Drain Plug Washer . .
Breather Outlet Elbow-Outer Crankcase
Breather Pipe
Crankcase Bolts
Cylinder Base Stud . .
Nut for Stud
Washer
Flywheel
Drive Shaft
Crank Pin
Crank Pinion
Key for Shaft and Pinion
Nut
Ballrace for Pinion
Locking Washer
Lock Screw
Spring Washers

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