Hangar 9 Cessna 182 Skylane User manual

INSTRUCTION MANUAL
ALMOST READY-TO-FLY
PRE-BUILT
90
%
WE GET PEOPLE FLYING
TM
TM
• Ultra Covering
• Pre-Finished Fiberglass Cowl
• Highest Quality Craftsmanship
Specifications
Wingspan: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66"
Wing Area:. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 579 sq. in.
Weight (Approx.):. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6–6.5 lbs.
Recommended Engines:. . . . .40–.50 2-cycle
.50–.65 4-cycle
SKYLANE

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Table of Contents
Introduction 3
Adhesives, Tools and Supplies Required 4
Kit Contents 5
Field Equipment Required 6
Optional Field Equipment 7
Section 1: Hinging the Ailerons 8
Section 2: Joining the Wing Halves 10
Section 3: Installing the Aileron Servos 13
Section 4: Installing the Aileron Linkage 15
Section 5: Mounting the Wing 17
Section 6: Installing the Tail 20
Section 7: Hinging the Rudder and Elevator 23
Section 8: Installing the Engine 24
Section 9: Installing the Nose Gear 26
Section 10: Installing the Landing Gear 27
Section 11: Assembling & Mounting the Wheel Pants 28
Section 12: Assembling & Installing the Fuel Tank 31
Section 13: Installing the Radio 34
Section 14: Installing the Linkages 36
Section 15: Attaching the Cowl 42
Section 16: Installing the Windows 43
Section 17: Scale Detailing 44
Section 18: Balancing the Cessna 182 45
Section 19: Control Throw Recommendation 45
Section 20: Flying the Cessna 182 45
Pre-Flight Check 46
Pre-Flight at the Field 47
AMA Safety Code 48

Introduction
Throughout aviation history, select few aircraft have achieved such a level of popularity that they transcend their eras. Such is the case
of the Cessna 182. This timeless classic is perhaps even more famous today than when it was first introduced.
Hangar 9’s Cessna 182 offers traditional scale appearance in a .40 size model aircraft and can be powered with any standard .40–.50
2-cycle engine. Or, for enhanced scale realism, a .50–.65 4-cycle engine can be used to power the Cessna 182.
Hangar 9’s Cessna 182 comes 90% pre-built to a high level of craftsmanship and is pre-covered and trimmed in Ultra Covering. This
means you can have a large (66 ″ span) high quality scale Cessna 182 to show to your friends at the field in 20 hours or less. Best of
all, they’ll never know it’s an ARF, and chances are they’ll compliment you on your building and finishing skill. Don’t worry . . . we
won’t tell!
WARNING:
An R/C aircraft is not a toy! If misused, it can cause serious bodily harm and damage to property. Fly only in open areas, preferably
AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics) approved flying sites, following all instructions included with your radio and engine.
Special Note: Due to changes in weather, wrinkling of the covering may occur. This is the nature of the covering film of the model
and can be easily eliminated using a heat gun or sealing iron.
In case of wrinkle: Use a heat gun or sealing iron on the wrinkled area. Then rub the surface with a soft cloth until the surface is
smooth again.
Additional Equipment Required
Radio Equipment Engine Recommendations
4 channels (minimum) .40–.50 2-Cycle Engines
5 standard servos .50–.65 4-Cycle Engines
Standard 450-650 mAh receiver battery pack
Y-harness
2 servo extensions
Recommended 2-Cycle Engines
MDS .46
Webra Speed .50 GT
Recommended 4-Cycle Engines
Saito .56-.65 GK
Saito .50-.65
3
MDS .46
Saito .56GK
Recommended JR Systems
JR F400 FM
JR 642 FM
JR XP783
JR XP8103
JR PCM10SxII

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Adhesives, Tools
and Supplies Required
Adhesives
Instant thin CA (Cyanoacrylate) glue
Thick CA glue
CA remover/debonder
White canopy glue (e.g., R/C 56 or Formula 560)
6-minute epoxy
12-minute epoxy
30-minute epoxy
Blue Locktite 242
Tools and Supplies
Drill
Drill bits: 1/4″, 1/8″, 1/16″, 3/32″
Small and medium Phillips screwdrivers
Z-bend pliers
Needle nose pliers
Pliers
Small round file
Adjustable wrench
Razor saw
Heat gun
Moto-Tool with sanding drum
Hobby knife with #11 blade
Mixing stick
Epoxy brush
Medium sandpaper
Masking tape
Straight edge
Measuring device (e.g., ruler, tape measure)
Scissors
Paper Towels
Wax paper
Rubbing alcohol
Pencil
Felt tipped pen
Fuel tubing
String (18–24″long)
Radio packing foam
Antenna tube (optional)
Fueling valve (optional)

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Kit Contents
Main Parts
Fuselage (1) Horizontal stabilizer (1)
Wing (2) Vertical stabilizer (1)
Accessories
Main-gear (set)-2 Hardwood wing strut-2
Nose-gear (set)-1 Music wire, 1.5 ×380mm (1⁄16 ×15″)-1
Rubber wheel, 51mm (2″)-1 Music wire, 1.5 ×450mm (1⁄16 ×173⁄4″)-1
Rubber wheel, 64mm (21⁄2″)-2 Music wire, 1.5 ×120mm (1⁄16 ×43⁄4″)-2
Spinner, 51mm-1 Nylon clevis-5
Control horn-5 Engine mount (set)-1
Threaded rod-5 Fuel tank (set)-1
Plywood wing-brace-1 Plastic cowling (set)-1
Plywood wing locking pin-1 Plastic wheel pants (set)-3
Plywood bearing-3 Wheel: 21⁄2″ (2)
Plywood liner-6 2″ (1)
Plastic wing strut (each)-2
Plastic cabin windows (set)-1

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Field Equipment Required
Airplane Fuel
Starter Propeller
Glow Driver
12V Sealed Battery Glow Plug Wrench
Glow Plug Manual Fuel Pump

7
Optional Field Equipment
4-Way Wrench Field Box Cleaner & Towels
Extra Glow Plugs Misc. Tools After-Run Fuel
Power Panel

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Important: Only use thin CA on hinges.
Note: The control surfaces, including the ailerons, elevators
and rudder, are pre-hinged with the hinges installed;
however, the hinges are not glued in place. It is
imperative that you properly adhere the hinges and
ailerons in place following the steps below using high
quality thin CA.
Step 1: Carefully remove the aileron from one of the wing
panels. Note the position of the hinges. The Cessna 182 comes
with high quality CA-type hinges, which are manufactured in the
U.S.A.
Step 2: Replace the aileron, making sure the hinges slide in
place. Deflect the aileron and apply a few drops of thin CA glue
directly to the center of each of the hinges. The aileron’s front
surface should lightly contact the wing during this procedure.
Ideally, when the hinge is glued in place, a 1/32″gap or less
will be maintained throughout the length of the aileron. The
hinge is constructed of a special material that allows the CA to
wick, or penetrate, and distribute throughout the hinge, securely
bonding it to the wood structure.
Step 3: Turn the wing panel over and deflect the aileron in the
opposite direction and from the opposite side. Apply thin CA
glue to each aileron hinge, making sure the CA penetrates into
both the aileron and the wing.
Step 4: Using CA remover/debonder and a paper towel, remove
any excess CA glue that may have accumulated on the wing or in
the aileron hinge area.
Section 1: Hinging the Ailerons
• Right wing panel with aileron and hinges
• Left wing panel with aileron and hinges • Instant thin CA glue • CA remover/debonder
• Paper towels
Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

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Step 5: Repeat this process with the other wing panel, securely
hinging the aileron in place.
Step 6: After both ailerons are securely hinged, firmly grasp the
wing and aileron to check that the hinges are immovable. Do this
by applying medium pressure, trying to separate the aileron from
the wing.
CONTINUED
Section 1: Hinging the Ailerons

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Step 1: Locate the dihedral brace (also called the wing joiner).
Using a ruler, mark the exact center of the brace with a pencil as
shown in the photo below.
Step 2: Trial fit the dihedral brace into one of the wing panels. It
should insert smoothly up to the center line marked in Step 1.
Now slide the other wing half onto the dihedral brace until the
wing panels meet. If the fit is overly tight, it may be necessary to
lightly sand the dihedral brace.
Step 3: Next, check for the correct dihedral angle. Place the
wing on a large, flat surface with one wing panel resting on the
flat surface. The opposite wing tip should be exactly 2″from the
surface (see illustration below). If necessary, sand the dihedral
brace until this is achieved.
Step 4: Mix up approximately three (3) ounces of 30-minute
epoxy.
Step 5: Smear a generous amount of epoxy into the wing joiner
cavity of one wing half. A scrap piece of wood or mixing stick is
handy here.
Note: It is extremely important to use plenty of epoxy when
joining the wing halves.
Section 2: Joining the Wing Halves
• Right wing panel from Section One
• Left wing panel from Section One
• Dihedral brace
• Trim tape
• Hardwood locking pin
• 30-minute epoxy
• Masking tape
• Paper towels
• Rubbing alcohol
• Wax paper
• Ruler
• Pencil
• Medium sandpaper
• Mixing stick
Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed
2″

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Step 6: Coat one half of the dihedral brace with epoxy up to the
pencil line drawn in Step 1. Note the orientation of the V side of
the dihedral brace; the V must face up. Install the epoxy-coated
side of the dihedral brace into the wing joiner cavity of the wing
half up to the center line, making sure the V of the dihedral brace
is positioned correctly.
Step 7: Apply a generous amount of epoxy into the wing cavity
of the other wing half.
Step 8: Now apply epoxy to all sides of the exposed area of the
dihedral brace and uniformly coat both wing roots with epoxy.
Step 9: Carefully slide the two wing halves together. Firmly
press the halves together, allowing the excess epoxy to run out.
Using rubbing alcohol and a paper towel, clean off the excess
epoxy. There should not be any gap between the wing halves.
Note: It is a good idea to place a sheet of wax paper under
the wing’s center joint so any excess epoxy doesn’t
adhere to the surface of the work area.
CONTINUED
Section 2: Joining the Wing Halves

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Step 10: Apply masking tape at the wing joint to hold the wing
halves together securely. Place the wing on a large, flat surface.
With one wing panel lying flat on the surface, the opposite wing
tip should be propped up exactly 2″from the surface. Apply
more masking tape to the center wing joint and recheck the 2″
measurement. Allow the wing joint to dry overnight.
Step 11: Install the hardwood wing locking block.
Note: Using epoxy, glue to the lower portion of the wing
cut-out, noting that it’s flush with the lower portion of
the wing cut-out. Before gluing, trial fit the wing to the
fuselage to establish how the locking pin is mounted
in relationship to the wing and the cabin top.
The diagram below shows all the parts making up
the complete wing.
Step 12: The white tape, plastic wing reinforcement and wing
hold-down bolts will be installed later in Section 5.
CONTINUED
Section 2: Joining the Wing Halves

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Step 1: Now that the wing halves are joined and the epoxy has
cured, it’s time to begin installation of the aileron servos. Note
on each wing half the location of the servo. You will be able to
identify this by a solid square shape with a rectangle cut-out in
the wing under the covering. It’s roughly the size of the bottom
of your servo. Using a sharp blade in your hobby knife, trim
away the covering material where the aileron servos will be
mounted. Next, find the round holes in each wing panel, near the
wing center line. This is where the aileron extension wires will
exit the wing. Cut out the opening in each wing half as well.
Step 2: Install the recommended servo hardware supplied with
your radio system onto your servos (grommets and eyelets).
Install a minimum 6″servo extension onto each of your aileron
servos.
Hint: It is always good procedure to tape together the
extension connector and the servo lead connector to
insure that they will not become unplugged inside the
wing.
Step 3: There are several options of how you pull the servo
wires through the wing. You can feed music wire or an extra
pushrod that you may have around (or take a coat hanger and
straighten it) through the pre-cut servo opening in the wing, or
start at one of the circular openings near the center of the wing.
You will have to bend the wire at various points to feed it
through the openings. We recommend you find some string,
attach the prop nut of your engine to the one end and feed it
through the servo opening and the openings in the wing until
you can see it through the circular opening. We found this was
one of the quickest methods to thread the servo wires through
the wing.
Section 3: Installing the Aileron Servos
• Assembled wing
• Two standard size servos with mounting hardware
• Y-harness
• Servo extensions (2)
• Hobby knife
• Small Phillips screwdriver
• Drill
• 1/16″drill bit
• 1/16″×36″music wire
• String
• Masking tape
• Scissors
• Pencil
• Felt tipped pen
• 30-minute epoxy
Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

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Step 4: Next, take the string and tie the end to your servo
extension lead, which is also connected to the servo lead. Make
sure the connectors will not separate by temporarily using
masking tape to secure the connectors together. Now you can
feed the servo leads through the opening.
Step 5: Install the servo into the aileron servo slot.
Note: It does not matter which direction the servo is
installed into the slot; in other words, if the servo horn
is closer to the aileron. However, both wing servos
should be mounted the same way.
Step 6: Securely fasten the servo in the aileron slot with four of
the servo mounting screws supplied with your radio system.
Step 7: Follow Steps 1-5 for the other aileron servo.
Step 8: Plug both aileron servo connectors into a Y-harness
and feed the excess servo lead wire back into the wing.
CONTINUED
Section 3: Installing the Aileron Servos

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Step 1: Turn the wing upside down. From the aileron servo
control arm that is attached to your servo (if it’s not attached, do
so now), use a felt tipped pen to mark the location of the control
horn directly in-line with the control arm as shown. Remember
to locate the control horn so the holes are directly above the
hinge line of the aileron.
Step 2: Place the center of the control horn on the aileron at the
mark made in the previous step. Mark the hole positions of the
control horn.
Step 3: Remove the control horn and drill two 1/16″holes
through the aileron as marked.
Step 4: Attach the aileron control horn using the hardware
provided (two long screws and back plate) and fasten it in place
using a small Phillips screwdriver
Step 5: Repeat the marking procedure for the other aileron
Step 6: Locate two of the short threaded rods (1/16″x 77⁄8″).
Thread a clevis at least 16 turns onto each rod. Be sure they are
not the longer rods.
Section 4: Installing the Aileron Linkage
• Wing assembly from Section Three
• Aileron linkages, 1/16″×77⁄8″(2)
• Control horns with linkages (2)
• Drill
• 1/16″drill bit
• Z-bend pliers (optional)
• Small Phillips screwdriver
• Felt tipped pen
• Pencil
• Masking tape
• Fuel tubing (optional)
Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

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Step 7: Install the clevis with the attached linkage to the aileron
control horn. Center the servo horn as shown and, using a felt
tipped pen, make a mark on the linkage where the Z-bend will be
inserted into the horn.
Step 8: Make a Z-bend in the linkage and cut off the excess
linkage.
Step 9: Center the standard size servo horn and install the
Z-bend into the outermost hole. Do the same for the other
aileron linkage.
Step 10: Attach the linkages onto their respective aileron horns.
Step 11: With the servo arm centered as shown, adjust the
aileron linkage until the aileron is exactly in the neutral position.
Follow this procedure for both aileron linkages. Final
adjustments will be made later as you adjust the control throws
in Section 19.
Note: It is a good idea to place a piece of fuel tubing over
the clevises as shown. This will provide extra
insurance against the clevises accidentally coming
open.
CONTINUED
Section 4: Installing the Aileron Linkage
SERVO LEAD

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Step 1: Trial fit the wing onto the fuselage. Be sure the wing
properly rests on the wing saddle. Place a narrow strip of
masking tape at exactly the center of the top of the fuselage just
in front of where the vertical fin will be installed later. This tape
will be used as a reference line in aligning the wing.
Step 2: With the wing trial fitted in place, measure the distance
from the back of the wing tip where it meets the aileron to the
tape mark. Compare the right and left distances and adjust the
wing until both are the same.
Note: If the wing hold-down screw blind nuts are already
installed, proceed to Step 4.
Step 3: Press the blind nuts into position below the rear wing
hold-down plate in the fuselage. Use pliers to squeeze the blind
nuts so the “teeth” penetrate the wood and stay in place.
Caution: It may be helpful to place a piece of wood on the
top side of the hold-down plate before squeezing
the pliers. This will keep the pliers from
“crushing” the rear wing hold-down plate.
Additionally, a small amount of epoxy or thick CA
will permanently attach the blind nut to the rear
wing hold-down plate.
Section 5: Mounting the Wing
• Completed wing assembly
• Fuselage
• Wing hold-down plate
• Wing hold-down screws
• Blind nuts (2)
• Drill
• 1/4″drill bit
• Medium Phillips screwdriver
• Small round file
• 12-minute epoxy
• Measuring device (e.g., 36″ruler or tape measure)
• Masking tape
• Pliers
Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

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Step 4: Thread the wing hold-down screws into the bottom side
of the blind nuts such that the ends of the screws extend 1/8″of
an inch above the wing saddle.
Step 5: Fit the wing back into position on the fuselage, carefully
sliding the leading edge hardwood locking block into the front
bulkhead slot. Align the wing by measuring the distance from the
wing tip to the center mark as in Step 2 of this section. When the
wing is properly aligned, firmly press downward on the rear center
section of the wing. The wing bolts will make an indentation in the
covering of the wing at the proper location to drill.
Step 6: Using a 1/4″drill bit, drill the exact center of the
marked locations on the bottom of the wing. Be careful that the
drill bit doesn’t tear the covering when it exits through the top
surface of the wing.
Step 7: Trial fit the wing into position on the fuselage. Thread
the wing hold-down bolts into the wing and loosely tighten.
Check the alignment of the wing by measuring from a fixed point
on each wing tip to the narrow strip of tape on the fuselage as
you did in Step 2. It may be necessary to slightly enlarge the
holes with a small round file to obtain proper alignment.
CONTINUED
Section 5: Mounting the Wing

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Step 8: Remove the wing. Add the white tape to hide the wing
joint seam. Step 9: Using 12-minute epoxy, glue the wing hold-down plate in place. Reattach the wing to the fuselage. The wing hold-down
bolts will assist in holding the wing hold-down plate in position
until dry. Also, use masking tape around the edges of the wing
hold-down plate to help hold it in place until the epoxy dries.
CONTINUED
Section 5: Mounting the Wing

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Step 1: On the rear of the fuselage, slots are pre-cut in the
wood structure for the horizontal and vertical stabilizers. The
covering, however, must be carefully cut away. Using a hobby
knife with a sharp #11 blade, carefully cut away the covering at
the openings for the horizontal stabilizer.
Step 2: Hold up the horizontal stabilizer to a strong light and
note the cut-out notch on the leading edge of the stabilizer. The
vertical fin keys into this notch when the tail is assembled. Using
a hobby knife, carefully trim the covering from this notch.
Step 3: Using a hobby knife, trim the covering on the top rear of
the fuselage where the vertical fin inserts into the fuselage.
Step 4: Trial fit the horizontal stabilizer into place in the
fuselage. Use care in sliding the horizontal stabilizer in place —
some trimming of the slot may be required.
Section 6: Installing the Tail
• Fuselage and wing from Section 5
• Horizontal stabilizer with elevators
• Vertical stabilizer with rudder
• Instant thin CA glue
• CA remover/debonder
• 30-minute epoxy
• Hobby knife with #11 blade
• Razor saw
• Straight edge
• Pencil
• Masking Tape
• Paper towels
• Rubbing alcohol
Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed