HHD 24S User manual

24S Automatic Mini Incubator Manual
To reach best hatching result, please read the manual
carefully before using
1.Package included 24 eggs
incubator* 1, manual* 1, protection
foam* 1, power cord* 1, water
kettle* 1
3.Ensure egg tray matched motor
shaft connector
5. Ensure fan, temperature
display, function keys, heater
works well. Attention, put machine
into foam if environment
temperature bellowed 20 oc for
better warm keeping.
2.Power cord socket
4.Ensure egg tray matched card slot
of both sides

6. Add water to preheat the
incubator and keep 20-30 minutes
after checking, then start hatching.
Incubation Tips:
The first step for hatching is choosing best fertilized eggs. Then how to choose?
1.Fertilized Eggs must be fresh and generally within 4-7 days after laying is the
best. The best temperature for saving fertilized eggs is 10-15 oc. The fertilized
egg is covered with a layer of powdery substance, which is strictly prohibited to
put into fridge and wash.
2.The surface of egg shell is required to be no deformity, cracks or any spots.
3.There's no need to be very careful on disinfecting fertilized eggs. Do not go to
disinfect if can't achieve disinfection condition because improper disinfection
may reduce the hatching rate. Just make sure the egg surfaces are clean and no
spots.
4.When putting eggs into machine for hatching, make sure the poninted side down.
5.Proper operation and careful observation are required during the incubation, Such
as :add water to the machine every 1 to 2 days (it depends on the environment
and the content of water inside the machine).
6.Fertile egg can't be tested by egg candler in the first four days during hatching,
to avoid the incubator and egg surface temperature decline sharply affects the
eggs' early development.
7.The first time to test egg (5 to 6 days) :mainly to check the fertilization of the
eggs, select the unfertilized eggs, scattered yellow eggs, dead eggs.

The second time to test egg (11 to 12 days):mainly to check the development
of egg embryo,the welldeveloped embryo is enlarged, with blood vessels
inside, and the air chamber is large and sharply demarcated.
The third time to test egg (16 to 17 days):Light from the pointed side ,a well-
developed embryo is larger, meanwhile full of egg, and no light in most places. If
it's a dead egg,the blood vessels in the egg are blurred,Parts yellow near the air
chamber,the bounda between the e and the air chamber is not clear .
8.Increase humidity and decrease temperature during hatching period , it prevents
water from evaporating too quickly in the eggs.Most importantly ,increase
humidity , prevent dehydration and reduce the temperature to avoid high
temperature and high humidity, especially the hatching period last for a long
time.And the temperature should be no more than 37.5 0C in 19th-21th days.
1. Setting key
2. Adding key / function selection key

3. Decreasing key / function selection key
4. Reset
5. Temperature display
6. Humidity display
7. Count down/ Hatching days
8. Egg candle key(only 24S has this function)
9. Water hole
1. Testing your incubator for the first time
1.1 Connect the egg turner plug to the control plug.
1.2 Connect the provided power wire to your power
source.
1.3 Switch on your power source.
1.4 Switch your incubator on.
1.5 You will hear an alarm sounding due to low
temperature/humidity, it's normal, Don't worry.
1.6 Press any button to cancel the alarm.
1.7 Operate the incubator and filling the water channels you will notice the
humidity reading increase.
1.8 Press reset button to check the automatic egg turning function.lt turns
every two hours,lasting 10 seconds.
2. Setting the temperature
2.1 Push "SET" once.
2.2 Push "+" or - to select the desired temperature.
2.3 Push "SET" once more to exit.
- These incubators are factory set at 380C, I found the
chicks hatch at day 19 to 20 meaning the temperature
being to high. Using the method as described above. I
recommend you set the temperature at 37.60 C.
3. Temperature alarm parameter settings (AL and AH)
The temperature alarm is factory set to sound at I OC over or below the set
temperature. This is sufficient and you do not need to make any changes to
these settings.
3.1 Low temperature alarm parameter setting. (AL)
3.1.1 Press and hold "SET " for 3 sec.
3.1.2 Push "+" or - until code "AL" appears in the temperature screen.
3.1.3 Push "SET"
3.1.4 Push "+" or - to adjust to your desired lower alarm setting.
I . Settin of
controller

3.2 Higher temperature alarm parameter setting (AH)
3.2.1 Press and hold "SET" for 3 sec.
3.2.2 Push "+" or - until code "AH" appears in the temperature screen.
3.2.3 Push "SET"
3.2.4 Push "+" or - to adjust to your desired higher alarm setting.
4. Humidity alarm parameter settings_(AS)
The humidity alarm is factory set to sound at 45% humidity. This is sufficient
and you don't need to make any changes to these settings.
4.1 Low humidity alarm parameter setting. (AS)
4.2 Press and hold "SET " for 3 sec.
4.3 Push "+" or - until code "AS" appears in the temperature screen.
4.4 push "SET"
4.5 Push "+" or - to adjust to your desired lower alarm setting.
- By filling both water channels the humidity should rise to
60% dependant on the local humidity levels and the time
of year. I tend to fill both my water channels every 4 to 5
days and at day 18 when I remove the egg trays I over fill
them to increase the humidity to about 65%.
5. Calibrating temperature sensor reading (CA)
The thermometer correct reading is set at OOC. The reading given by the
thermometer can be adjusted if you find that the temperature reading is
incorrect using a calibrated thermometer.
5.1 Calibrating the temperature sensor measurement. (CA)
5.2 Press and hold "SET" for 3 sec.
5.3 Push "+" or - until code "CA" appears in the temperature screen.
5.4 Push "SET"
5.5 Push "+" or - to adjust to the correct measurement.
- Note that the adjustment is the difference between the
thermometer readings and should be adjusted with if
the temperature reading of the incubator is to high and
normal value (indicating + value) if the incubator reading
is too low.
6. Temperature Upper and lower limit set (HS and LS)
HS - (High Set) and LS - (Low Set) set the limit of the setting range of the
desired temperature setting (incubating temperature adjustment)

If HS is set as 38.2 and LS is set as 37.4, then the desire temperature
(incubating temperature adjustment) can only be changed from 38.2 to 37.4,
so the minimum temperature shall be limited to 37.2 even if the is kept on
pressing. The same goes for the High Set Limit.
-This is to prevent accidental out of range temperature setting.
-These are settings I have never adjusted or attempted to adjust as
the heating unit starts and stops within I O C of my set temperature
of 37.6 0C.
Il . Notice for first time of
incubatin
1. Test your incubator to see if its functions properly.
2.Connect the egg turner plug to the control plug inside the egg compartment.
3. Fill one or both water channels depending on local humidity levels.
4. Set the eggs with the pointy side down.
5. Close the lid and switch on the incubator.
6. Press the reset button (left green button) to reset and start the day counter
from O
(this will also rest the egg turning countdown back to 1 59)
Keep an eye on the humidity reading and fill the water
channels when needed. (normally every 4 days)
8. At day 18 you should remove the tray with the turning
mechanism and place the eggs on top of he bottom grid.
9. At the same time it is important to fill water channels to
increase the humidity. (this is very important to ensure
7. Display Symbols

that the eggshells are soft enough for the chicks to break
through.)
10. Don't open the lid frequently when the chicks start to
hatch, you could fill water through kettle. If you do, the
loss of humidity will cause the eggshells of the unhatched
eggs to dry out and they won't able to break through the
egg.
Ill. Incubatin ti s
1. Egg and incubator hygiene
Proper hygiene is essential to achieve good hatching results. Poor hygiene causes
chicks to die in their first 10 days of life.
Only clean eggs should be used for incubation. Dirty eggs are potential carriers
of diseases that thrive and multiply in the ideal heat and moisture conditions of
the incubator. If you need to incubate dirty eggs, wash them first in warm water
(44-49 0 C) that contains disinfectant at a rate recommended by the manufacturer
(most household disinfectants are suitable), and dry the eggs quickly after
washing using separate paper towels.
Do not soak eggs for longer than four minutes to avoid affecting fertility and do
not soak eggs in cold water, as it encourages bacterial penetration through the
eggshell.
Fumigating eggs immediately after collection also helps with hygiene. A suitable
fumigant is formaldehyde gas, which is made by mixing 1 part (by weight) of
potassium permanganate (Condy's crystals) with 1.5 parts (by volume) of
formalin (see Table 1 for the correct amounts for each application). Place the
chemicals in a dish on the floor of the incubator. Place the Condy's crystals into
the dish first and then pour the formalin over it. Shut the incubator door quickly
and vacate the room.
For proper fumigation, run the machine normally with the correct temperature
and humidity. After 20 minutes, open the vents or the door and air the machine
for a few minutes. Again, vacate the room.
2. Healthy stock
It is important that eggs from only a healthy flock are used for hatching, as some
diseases can be transmitted through the egg. The egg-transmittable diseases to
be most aware of are salmonella infections, fowl typhoid and Mycoplasma
gallisepticum.
Eggs laid by birds infected with disease may fail to hatch. Of those that do hatch,
some birds may die during brooding, and the survivors may act as carriers and
infect healthy chicks.
Do not add eggs from unknown sources to make up numbers, as you risk
infecting your flock.
Breeding stock nutrition

The egg provides a complete food store for proper embryo development except
gaseous oxygen, which enters the egg through pores in the shell. Breeding
stock must be fed a well-balanced diet to fully meet the embryos' nutrient
requirements.
The deficient nutrients are usually vitamins or minerals. A deficiency of these
in the breeders' diet may not show any ill effects in the breeders, though
hatchability may be affected, which is why different categories are fed specific
diets. Nutritional deficiencies, such as a lack of riboflavin, are the main causes
of embryo mortality during the middle stage of incubation (i.e. between the
12th and 14th days).
Hens' vitamin and mineral requirements for laying eggs are lower than those of
breeders. The breeder's diet should begin six to eight weeks before hatching eggs
are required, with particular attention to vitamin A, D3, riboflavin, pantothenic
acid, biotin, folic acid, vitamin B12 and the mineral man anese.
Riboflavin
Leads to poor hatchability with a high incidence of
malformed embryos, which are excessively moist
Pantothenic Lowers hatchability and causes a high incidence of
apparently normal
acid embryos to die over the last two or three days of
incubation
Biotin,
choline
Leads to abnormal development of the embryo and
a condition known
and
manganese
as enlarged hock/slipped Achilles tendon
B12
Leads to a rapid decrease in hatchability and a
progressively poorer
survival of chicks that do hatch
3. Incubation faults and causes checklist
How to locate and recti faults in incubation techni ue
# Problem Probable causes Action
1
Too many
clears or
infertile
eggs
(a) Wrong proportion of
males to females
(a) Check mating ratios
according to breeder's
recommendations
(b) Male is
undernourished
(b) See that cockerels
are able to feed
separately, otherwise
hens ma eat all the feed

(c) Interference among
males during mating
(c) Do not use too many
males; always rear
breeding males together;
erect temporary solid
partitions between
breeding pens or inside
lar e ens
(d) Damaged combs and
wattles among males
(d) See that housing is
comfortable and proper
drinking fountains are
provided for breedin ens
e Male is too old e Re lace old birds
Male is sterile Re lace with another
male
(g) Eggs kept too long
or under the wrong
conditions before
setting
(g) Do not keep
hatching eggs longer
than seven days; store
them in a cool
temperature (10-15.60
C) at relative humidity
around 75-
2
Blood
rings,
which
indicate
very early
embryonic
death
(a) Incubator
temperature too high or
low
(a) Check
thermometers,
thermostats and
electricity supply;
follow manufacturer's
instructions
(b) Incorrect
fumigation procedure
(b) Use the correct
amount of fumigant.
Do not fumigate
between
24 and 96 hours after
settin
c As in 1 c As in 1
3
Many
deadin-
shell
(a) As in 2(a)
(a) As in 2(a)
(b) Eggs not properly
turned
(b) Turn the eggs
regularly at least three
to five times a day;
always turn the eggs in

the reverse direction
each time
(c) Breeding stocks'
nutrition is deficient if
deaths are high in
days 10 and 14
(c) Check that feeding
is sound
(d) Incubator's
ventilation faulty
(d) Increase
ventilation by normal
means
(e) Infectious diseases
(e) Use eggs only from
healthy stock; check
that hatchery hygiene
is sound and carried
out regularly
4
Piped
eggs
failing to
hatch
(a) Insufficient
moisture in the
incubator
(a) Increase the
evaporating surface of
water or the sprays
(b) Too much moisture
at earlier sta es
(b) Check wet-bulb
readings
c Nutrition roblem c Check flock feedin
5
(a)
Hatching
too soon
(a) Incubator's
temperature too hi h (a) (b) (c) Ensure the
temperature regulating
gear is working and set
at the correct
operating temperature
when the control
switches off
(b)
Hatching
too late
(b) Incubator's
temperature too low
(c) Sticky
chicks
(c) Incubator's
temperature robabl
too hi h
6
Malformed
chicks
(a) Incubator's
temperature too high
(a) As in 2(a)
(b) Incubator's
temperature too low
(b) As in 2(a)
(c) Eggs set
incorrectly or not
ro erl turned after
settin
(c) As in 3(b); also,
take care to set the e s
broad-end u
7
Spraddling
chicks
Hatching trays too
smooth
use wire-meshed tray
floors or cover
slippery floors with

burlap or other similar
material
8
Weak
chick
(a) Incubator or
hatching unit
overheatin
(a) As in 5
b Settin small e s b Onl set e s of the
breed
avera e size
Small
chick
c Too little moisture
in incubator
c As in 4
(d) Too much
fumigant left in
hatcher
(d) As in 2(b)
Heavy
breathing
chicks
e Too much moisture
in hatcher
e As in 4
(f) Possibly infectious
disease
(f) Send chicks to a
veterinary laborato for
dia nosis
(g) Low average
temperature durin
eriod of incubation
(g) As in 2(a)
Mushy
chicks
h Incubator has oor
ventilation
i 0m halitis navel
infection
(h) As in 3(d)
(i) Carefully clean out
and fumigate the
incubator using
formaldehyde at the
higher strength;
disinfect all e ui ment;
9
Hatch not
coming
off evenly
Setting eggs too
diverse in age or size
set eggs at least once
a week and never
retain hatching eggs
longer than 10 days
before setting;
incubate onl avera e-
size e s
IV. Some
uestions ma meet when
incubatin
our e
s
1.How should I store eggs?
Your eggs need to settle for at least 24 hours if they came through the post.
This allows the air cell inside the egg to return to its normal size. Eggs should

always be stored with the pointy end down while they are "in the hold". It's a
good practice to follow and it will help your hatch!
If you receive eggs that are getting old, you may only let them settle overnight.
2.When is my incubator ready to start incubating?
By the time you have gotten your eggs your incubator should have been running
at least 24 hours. A week is even better. This gives you time to learn what's
going to happen in your incubator and allows you to make any necessary
adjustments before setting your eggs. A surefire way to ruin hatching eggs is to
put them in the incubator without having it properly adjusted.
Take note of the term "internal" temperature. Don't confuse internal egg
temperature with internal incubator temperature. The temperature in an
incubator changes constantly, rising and lowering. The temperature inside
the egg will be an average of this temperature swing in your incubator.
3.What must the temperature and humidity be inside my incubator?
This is plain and simple, yet the MOST important part of hatching.
Fan Forced incubator: 37.5 degrees C measured anywhere in
the incubator. Humidity: 55% for the first 18 days, 60-65% for
the last 3 days in the hatcher.
4.Is my thermometer accurate?
Thermometers go bad. Keeping the temperature accurate can be a struggle, even
with very good thermometers. A nice part about running a big incubator over
an extended period is that you can tweak the temperature regardless of what
thermometers tell you.
After the first hatch, you can raise or lower the temperature by what the hatch
tells you. If they hatched early the temperature needs to be lowered. If they hatch
late the temperature needs to be raised.
You can check your Thermometer this way. Keep notes on everything you do
during the incubation period.
As you learn you'll have these notes to look back on. They will be the most
valuable tool that you can have. It won't be long until you can say "I know what
happened, all I need to do is change this one little thing". Soon you will be able
to make adjustments by knowing what to do, instead of guessing!!!
5.How do I check humidity?
Humidity is checked by way of a hygrometer (wet-bulb thermometer) in
conjunction with a regular "drybulb" thermometer. A hygrometer is simply a
thermometer with a piece of wick attached to the bulb. The wick hangs in
water to keep the bulb wet (hence the name "wet-bulb thermometer"). When
you read the temperature on the thermometer and hygrometer, you must then

compare the readings to a chart to translate from wet-bulb/dry-bulb reading to
"percentage humidity".
From the relative humidity table, you can see
60% humidity reads about 30.5 degrees C on a wet-bulb at 37.5degrees C.
60% humidity reads about 31.6degrees C on a wet-bulb
at 38.6degrees C. 80% humidity reads about 33.8degrees
C on a wet-bulb at 37.5degrees C.
80% humidity reads about 35degrees C on a wet-bulb at 38.6degrees C.
Getting your humidity to become as accurate as your temperature is nearly
impossible. It is almost completely impossible with a small incubator. Try to get
your humidity as close as you can, and you'll be fine. Just being aware that
humidity is important, and trying to get the numbers to come in close will be a
huge help to your hatch.
If you can hold within 10-15% things should turn out fine.
Temperature on the other hand, is CRITICAL!! !!! We hate to beat this point to
death, but a small deviation in temperature (even a couple degrees) can and will
ruin a hatch. Or, at least turn a potentially great hatch into a lousy one.
6. An important point about incubator humidity
As seasons change, so goes humidity. When you are incubating eggs in January
and February it will be very difficult to maintain a humidity that is as high as
you like. That's because the outside humidity is so low. (Depending on where
you live). By the same token, when you are incubating in June and July the
outside humidity is usually much greater and the humidity in your incubator
will most likely get much higher than you would like. Hatching problems will
change as the season progresses. If you are doing things the same way in July
as you were in January, you have to expect different results. All we are trying
to say here is that your incubator humidity changes directly according to the
outside humidity. Low outside, low in the incubator. High outside, high in the
incubator. To adjust for these problems, you need to change the surface area of
water in your incubator.
7. What is surface area?
Surface area is "the amount of surface of water exposed to air in your
incubator". The depth of water has absolutely no bearing on the humidity in the
incubator (unless the depth is zero). If the humidity is too low in your
incubator, add surface area. Place another pan of water in the incubator, or
some small, wet sponges. This will help. Alternatively you can spray the eggs
with a fine mist. To decrease the humidity, remove surface area. Use smaller
containers of water, or undo some of the things you've added.
8. How long will it take to incubate chicken eggs?
The incubation period for chicken eggs is 21 days. You should turn your eggs at
least three times a day for the first 18 days, and stop turning after the 18th day
(or use a hatcher if you have eggs from different days in the same machine). This
allows the chick time to orient itself inside the egg before piping.

After day 18, KEEP THE INCUBATOR CLOSED except to add water. This
will help bring the humidity up to help the chicks hatch. I know it will kill you
not to open the incubator 1000 times when it's this close to hatch time, but it's
not good for the chicks. If you haven't bought an incubator yet, invest the extra
couple bucks in the picture window model. Then you can "see it all" without
causing harm to your hatch.