Ibis Ripley Quick start guide

Ibis Ripley

uning Guideame T

Owner’s Responsibility and Proper Maintenance

All Ibis Bicycle frames should be periodically checked by an authorized Ibis

dealer for indicators of stress and/or potential failure, including cracks,

deformations, corrosion, paint peeling, dents, and any other indicators of

potential problems, inappropriate use, or abuse. These are important safety

checks that can help prevent accidents, bodily injury to the rider and shortened

product life of an Ibis frame. This Warranty does not cover malfunctions or

failures caused by delay in bringing a problem or potential problem to the

attention of Ibis or an authorized Ibis dealer.

Other useful information and specifications:

The Ripley geometry is optimized for 80mm travel forks. It is also fine to use

a longer travel fork, but do so at your own risk as hair loss and weird fetishes

may result. To match the rear suspension, we recommend you set your fork with

an initially active tuning (i.e. plush).

Care and feeding of your Ripley frame is simple. Try to prevent major gouges

from marring the powdercoated finish. If you do gouge it, we recommend

enamel from a hobby store as touch up. We can’t provided touch up, because

we apply the paint in powder form and then bake it on.

Specs: Bottom Bracket: 73mm English Front Der: 34.9 mm(1 3/8”) top pull

Seat Post Diameter: 31.6 mm Drop Out Spacing: 135mm

Please fill in the following information:

Frame Size _____________________ Where Purchased __________________

Serial Number __________________ _______________________________

Date purchased _________________ _______________________________

Tuning Info: Once you’ve tuned your bike, we recommend you jot down your

settings for future reference, and reordering of components.

Adjuster Preload Setting, turns (0 being in the middle, factory preset).

-2 -1 0 +1 +2

Sag Setting ____________________ Rider Weight (don’t lie!) ____________

A final reminder, did you contact Ibis to complete your warranty registration?

Hint: www.ibiscycles.com/warranty or call us at 800-283-0943.

Contact Information

Ibis LLC 5850 Commerce Blvd. Suite D Rohnert Park, CA 94928

800-283-0943 707-588-5852 707-588-8047 (fax)

info@ibiscycles.com www.ibiscycles.com

Ripley Technology

You’ve just purchased the finest softtail ever built. The Ripley has numerous

features which combine to give you an extremely comfortable high performance

ride. The Ripley is in a class of its own: the world’s only aluminum Softtail. Its

1.25” of rear wheel travel equals that of typical titanium softtails, and at 4.4

lbs. it weighs the same, yet it costs a fraction of that of a titanium softtail.

In order to attain long travel, superior front end torsion and excellent lateral

rigidity, the Ripley has a highly evolved and integrated system of components

and features. To maximize the performance and pleasure you experience while

riding your Ripley, we recommend you familiarize yourself with the frame and

its features by reading through this guide, and spending an appropriate amount

of time on setup and tuning.

And don’t forget to activate your warranty!

Table of Contents

Key Components pg 3 Reassembly pg 8

Shock Tuning Guidelines pg 4-5 Shock Diagram pg 9

Lubrication pg 6 Parts List pg 10

Disassembly pg 7 Warranty pg 11

Quick Guide

Impatient are we? Although we recommend you read this manual in its entirety,

here is the quick and dirty tuning guide:

Step 1—Set the sag of the shock (the amount of travel you see when you sit

on the saddle without moving) to 0.3-0.4 inches. Adjust the sag with a

Shimano (TL-UN74S) or Park (BBT-2) BB tool or with either a 19mm or

3/4” socket by turning the preload adjuster (part # 11 pg. 9) at the

bottom of the shock. Righty tighty increases spring force/decreases sag.

Step 2—Ride the bike for a few hours to allow the spring (part #8 pg. 9) to set.

Step 3—Check sag occasionally, as the springs will continue to find their

groove thang.

Step 4—Lube the shock every 20 hours of riding (or as needed) by pulling

up the shock boot and injecting each of the two chamfered holes with

SRAM Jonnisnot®. You’re finished when you see lube coming out of the

non chamfered holes. DO NOT USE ANY OTHER LUBES

Step 5—Ride

Ibis Lifetime Warranty

IMPORTANT – PLEASE READ:YOU MUST ACTIVATE YOUR NEW PRODUCT WARRANTY WITHIN 14 DAYS OF

PURCHASE BY CALLING IBIS AT 800-283-0943 OR BY VISITING OUR WEBSITE: www.ibiscycles.com/warranty

Subject to the limitations, terms and conditions set forth below, Ibis LLC (“IBIS”) warrants to the original

owner of each IBIS frame (“Frame”) that when new, such Frame is free of defects. This Lifetime Limited

Warranty (“Frame Warranty”) covers IBIS Frame for the lifetime of the Frame1. This Warranty does not

apply to paint/finish or third party components attached to the Frame such as front forks, wheels, drive

train, brakes, seatpost, handlebar and stem or any third party suspension-related parts or components.

Subject to the limitations, terms and conditions set forth below, ibis LLC (“IBIS”) warrants to the original

owner of each IBIS rear shock that is provided with an Ibis soft tail Frame (“Rear Shock”), that when new,

such Rear Shock is free of defects. This Three Year Limited Warranty (“Rear Shock Warranty”) covers

factory installed IBIS Rear Shocks for three years from the date of purchase.

In order to initiate coverage under the Frame Warranty or Rear Shock Warranty, the original owner must

Warranty, the Frame and/or Rear Shock must be presented to IBIS or an authorized IBIS dealer, together

with a receipt, or other proof of purchase, which identifies the Frame by serial number. Should the Frame

and/or Rear Shock be determined by IBIS to be covered by this Warranty, it will be repaired or replaced,

at the sole option of IBIS, which will be conclusive and binding. If repaired or replaced, the original

owner will receive a credit towards the cost of such repair or replacement based on the number of years

since original purchase of the Frame and IBIS’ standard warranty schedule. This Warranty does not include

the cost of travel or shipment to and from an authorized IBIS dealer or IBIS factory. Such costs, if any,

shall be born by the original owner.

This Warranty does not apply to normal wear and tear, nor to claimed defects, malfunctions or failures

that result from abuse, neglect, improper assembly, improper maintenance, alteration, collision, crash or

misuse. This Frame and/or Rear Shock have not been designed, engineered, distributed, manufactured, or

sold for uses in trick riding, ramp riding, jumping, aggressive riding, riding on severe terrain, riding in

severe climates, riding with heavy loads, commercial activities, or any similar activities. Such uses may

damage the Frame and/or Rear Shock, can cause serious injury to the rider, and in all cases will void this

Warranty. This Warranty is made only to the original owner of a new IBIS Frame and/or Rear Shock

purchased from an authorized IBIS dealer and is not transferable.

An authorized IBIS dealer should periodically check IBIS Frame for indicators of stress and/or potential

failure, including cracks, deformations, corrosion, paint peeling, dents, and any other indicators of

potential problems, inappropriate use, or abuse. These are important safety checks that can prevent

accidents, bodily injury and shortened Frame life. This Warranty does not cover malfunctions or failures

caused by delay in bringing a problem or potential problem to the attention of IBIS or an authorized IBIS

dealer.

This is an integrated and final statement of the IBIS Warranty. IBIS does not authorize anyone, including

its dealers, to extend any other warranties, express or implied, for IBIS. No other representation, and no

statement of anyone but IBIS, including a demonstration of any kind by anyone, shall create any warranty

regarding IBIS Frame or Rear Shock. IBIS’s liability under this Warranty shall be no greater than the

amount of the original purchase price of the Frame or Rear Shock and in no event shall IBIS be liable for

incidental or consequential damages.

All other remedies, obligations, liabilities, rights, warranties, express or implied, arising from law or

otherwise, including but not limited to any claimed implied warranty of merchantability, any claimed

implied warranty arising from course of performance, course of dealing or usage of trade, and any claimed

implied warranty of fitness, are disclaimed by IBIS and waived by the original owner of the Frame.

1 Titanium, steel, and aluminum frames are warranted for life to the original owner. Aluminum frames are subject

to a valuation schedule, which governs the value of the repair and/or replacement.

The Ripley chainstay carries a lifetime warranty. Should any other portion of the Ripley frame fail, its repair or

replacement will be based on the terms and conditions above, and this Aluminum Frame Valuation Schedule:

First 5 years from original purchase: Frame replacement or repair at no charge.

Years 6-7: Frame replacement or repair at current prices, with 75% of original frame price credited to original buyer.

Years 8-10: Frame replacement or repair at current prices, with 50% of original frame price credited to original buyer

After Year 10: Frame replacement or repair at current prices, with 25% of original frame price credited to original

buyer.

2 Product must be registered by completing an official Ibis Registration Form (accompanied with Frame, or available

on the Ibis Website or at an Authorized Ibis Dealer).

Key Components

Chainstays

Perhaps the most striking and technologically unique feature of the Ripley is

the flat chainstay. This structure is able to provide significant vertical move-

ment and lower levels of stress than round stays. Since our flat stay is only

.25” tall, for a given amount of travel the plate has one third the bending

stress of a .75” round tube. The result is our stay can provide travel equal to

that seen on other softtails, but with far less stress. As with any spring—and

our chainstay is essentially a leaf spring—lower stress equals longer life.

The chainstays are designed as a planar truss to increase lateral stiffness. In

fact, the Ripley chainstays are significantly stiffer side-to-side than the round

chainstays used on other softtails.

The CDE Shock

Due to the Ripley’s significantly increased suspension travel, we needed to

design a shock absorber appropriate to the application. As a result, the Ripley

uses our Critically Damped Elastomer shock, a simple engineering marvel with

few moving parts. It is reliable, lightweight, user-friendly, and provides

excellent travel with minimal maintenance.

In the first part of its travel, the CDE shock is supple and undamped, which

allows it to be very active on small amplitude/high frequency bumps (small

bumps). On higher amplitude/low frequency bumps (the big hits) the shock

becomes progressively stiffer and the damping kicks in. The purpose of the

damper is to absorb bump energy to keep you on the bike and the tire on the

ground. Most short travel softtails leave out the damper. But a good damper is

critical to performance particularly as travel increases.

We don’t recommend the substitution of any other rear shock. The CDE achieves

1” of plush, damped travel in a 3” long shock. Replacement air/oil shocks

require nearly 5” of shock length to achieve this much shaft travel.

Das Boot

Because we like to build bikes that last a long time and require minimal

maintenance, we’ve built the Ripley shock as a sealed system. Since there is a

large change in air volume inside the shock when the shock goes through its

range of motion, we needed to design a shock boot that absorbs all the excess

air without ballooning and trying to suck nasty stuff into its nicely sealed inner

environment. Using a bunch of fancy math that most of us forget after our last

calculus final, we’ve designed a custom boot that accomplishes this goal.

Ordering Parts

To keep you Ripley all dressed up and looking good, we’ve got replacement

parts, tuning kits, and lots of friendly advice. Use the following part numbers

for ordering replacements. Call us for advice.

metI srebmuNtraPsibI

ydoBkcohSEVEELSKCOHS-RAZ

eveelSrennIR-EVEELSRENNI-RAZ

retsujdAR-RETSUJDA-RAZ

tloBretneCTLOBRETNEC-RAZ

rehsaWtloBretneCREHSAW-RAZ

rehsaWtaeSREHSAWTAES-RAZ

thgiLartxE-gnirpSelppuSR-LELYCUCM-RAZ

thgiL-gnirpSelppuSR-LLYCUCM-RAZ

muideM-gnirpSelppuSR-MLYCUCM-RAZ

yvaeH-gnirpSelppuSR-HLYCUCM-RAZ

yvaeHartxE-gnirpSelppuSR-HELYCUCM-RAZ

thgiLartxE-gnirpSniaMR-LERPSUCM-RAZ

thgiL-gnirpSniaMR-LRPSUCM-RAZ

deM-gnirpSniaMR-MRPSUCM-RAZ

yvaeH-gnirpSniaMR-HRPSUCM-RAZ

yvaeHartxE-gnirpSniaMR-HERPSUCM-RAZ

gniR-OGNIR-O-RAZ

tooBTOOBKCOHS-RAZ

ebuLtonsinnoJMARSTONSINNOJ-RAZ

)"814.1(ralloCtaeSR-MRALLOC-XX

Tuning and Maintenance

Shock Tuning Guidelines

The Ripley provides a wide range of adjustment based on rider weight, size of

bike and personal rider preference. The primary adjustment you need to make is

to add preload for heavy riders, or back it off for light riders.

Ibis offers tuning kits with softer and stiffer springs, and you are invited to

call us any time for help in tuning.

The factory-set spring configuration for the Ripley is measured with the

adjuster (part # 11 pg. 9) mid-travel (factory preload settings on next page).

Turning the adjuster out two turns will give you the light preload (left picture

below), and turning the adjuster in two complete revolutions will provide you

with the heavy preload configuration (right picture below). There are 4 com-

plete turns of adjustment available on the shock, each corresponding to

approximately 15 pounds of rider weight adjustment.

Note: Do not adjust farther than the two extremes (4 turns apart). You will

know when you are at either extreme by a visual inspection of the adjuster. If

the bottom of the adjuster is flush with the bottom of the shock mount (2"

diameter piece) you are at maximum preload. The adjuster won’t turn any

further. If you need more preload, first use a harder main spring (part #8 page

9). If you need even more preload, install a new supple spring (part # 4 pg. 9).

If you begin to see the o-ring groove on the side of the adjuster, you are at the

minimum preload setting. If you are not getting enough sag and you are at

this setting call us to get a softer spring.

Minimum Shock Preload Maximum Shock Preload

5—Lubricate the outside of the main spring, insert.

6—Pull down on shock to release pressure and thread in shock adjuster. You

should be able to turn two full turns by hand before needing to use the

wrench.

7—Set the preload and sag as mentioned above.

8—Ride. A lot.

Shock Diagram

What They’re Called

1—Shock Boot

2—Shock Body

3—Seat Washer

4—Supple Spring

5—Inner Sleeve

6—Center Bolt Washer

7—Center Bolt

8—Main Spring

9—Bottom Out Bumper

10—O-Ring

11—Adjuster

Initial Set Up

Use the following table as a guideline for setting up the Ripley for the first

time, and then go put a few hours riding on the bike. The numbers in the boxes

represent the rider’s weight. If you fall outside of these weights, contact Ibis

for different shock tuning set-ups.

eziSemarFdaolerPthgiL

)snrutowtsunim(

daolerPyrotcaF

)levart-dim(

daolerPyvaeH

)snrutowtsulp(

llamSartxE.sbl021-001.sbl041-021.sbl061-041

llamS.sbl041-021.sbl061-041.sbl081-061

muideM.sbl061-041.sbl081-061.sbl002-081

egraL.sbl081-061.sbl002-081.sbl022-002

egraLartxE.sbl002-081.sbl022-002.sbl042-022

Breaking In The Shock

Important: The microcellular polyurethane springs in the Ripley shock will

actually take some time to break in and take a set. Four hours of riding will be

adequate to set the springs. Once the sag has been set after the break in

period, heavier and more aggressive riders should check the sag every couple of

months.

Measuring and Setting Sag

After your break-in period you’ll need

to adjust the sag. When you sit on the

bike, the shock should sag 0.3-0.4".

You can fine-tune the shock to provide

the appropriate sag.

To measure the sag, we recommend

using a tape measure to record the

unsagged distance between the rear

axle and the seat post bolt (see

photo). Now sit on the bike in your

riding position, bounce up and down a

couple times gently to make sure you

get an accurate reading, and have

someone and re-measure the distance.

The difference between the first and

second measurement is known as the

sag. To increase the sag, turn adjuster

screw counter-clockwise. Clockwise

adjustment decreases sag (duh).

Setting the Sag

Remov-

ing the

Upper

Stack

body (also known as the shock sleeve-part #2 pg. 9)

7—Push the supple spring out (pg 7). If you are replacing the supple spring

not the main spring, proceed to reassembly step 4.

8—Slide the boot off the frame.

9—Loosen the pinch bolt on the frame and remove the aluminum shock

body, taking care not to spread the frame apart.

Inspection

While the shock is apart, inspect the boot for cracks or holes, replace if

necessary. Also check the shock body for gouges or worn anodization. Small

longitudinal scratches along the shock inner bore will not affect performance,

large gouges will. Replace if necessary. Inspect the main shock spring and

supple spring for bulging or cracks, and inspect the inner sleeve for wear or

damage. Replace worn components.

Reassembly

1—Using a cloth, clean all the parts you are reassembling, including threads

in shock sleeve and adjuster. Do not use solvents, as they could attack

the spring material.

2—Slide shock sleeve into frame, tighten pinch bolt to 40 inch pounds.

3—Slide boot onto 1" frame stub.

4—Upper Spring:

a) Spread a small amount of lube on the inside

bore of the supple spring.

b) Insert inner sleeve into the supple spring

(you’ll need to push hard).

c) Remove excess lube from each end of inner

sleeve, use q-tip to remove from lube from

inside the supple spring.

Important: Be sure to remove excess grease or

Loctite will not adhere.

d) Lube the outside surface (the portion which

glides on the shock body) of the supple spring

liberally and reinsert.

e) Apply light grade thread lock (Loctite®Threadlocker 242) to first half

inch of central bolt threads, insert and tighten to 60 inch pounds.

Important: this is a critical measurement, and improper torque can

cause failure of the shock bolt.

Supple Spring

Lubrication

Rules number 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5: Do Not Mix Lubes

The Ripley comes factory lubed with SRAM Jonnisnot Silicon based lubricant. It

comes in a syringe, and the Ripley shock sleeve lube port is designed to be

lubricated using this syringe.

Please do not use any other lubricants, use only SRAM Jonnisnot.

Polyalaolephin based lubes attack polyurethane, and will ruin the springs! Also,

mixing of lubes can result in unknown and possibly detrimental reactions, skin

rash, bloated feelings general melancholy and a tendency to vote across party

lines.

1—Use only SRAM Jonnisnot (available at bike shops and from Ibis)

2—NEVER mix lubricants.

3—Cut off all but 1/2”of the

Jonnisnot syringe tip.

4—Clamp the seatpost in a bike

repair stand, getting all weight

off the rear wheel of the bike.

Using your hands, pull the

shock apart so the shock is at

maximum extension. This will

align the lube ports with the

chamfers on the damper discs.

5—Lift the bottom of the shock

boot up, revealing the lube

ports. Lube any two opposite

ports in the shock sleeve, the

adjacent ports are to verify the

pentetration of grease. Lube

only two ports, not all four.

6—Inject grease into the lube port

until it comes out the adjacent

port. This will take considerable

pressure on the syringe, and approximately 30 seconds of injection to fill

the shock. (Note: If you run a lot of preload and are unable to inject

grease, it’s likely that the lube ports are misaligned with the damper disc

chamfers. Loosen the shock adjuster until you are able to inject grease.

Reset the preload when you are done.)

7—Wipe away any excess grease and replace the shock boot.

Lubing with Jonnisnot

Burping Das Shock Boot

It’s no accident that the shock boot is not held on with zip ties. Unless you’re

in a nasty environment with lots of mud or dust, you don’t need to zip tie the

boot to the frame. Once the boot is set into place, it will find its own length

without any intervention by the user.

If you would like to zip tie the boot, there are a couple of steps you to follow.

1—Set the over all boot length to 3.1 inches end to end.

2—Pull up the one end of the boot slightly to allow equilibrium between the

inside and outside air. The technical term for this is “burping the boot”.

3—Zip tie

Following these three steps will allow proper expansion and contraction of the boot.

Disassembly

To simply lube the shock, you do not need to disassemble the shock. Instead,

go to the lube instructions above. Should you wish to disassemble the shock

for cleaning or replacement of any parts, use the following instructions:

1—When working on the Ripley shock, always use a bicycle repair stand,

and clamp the seatpost, not the frame. When the shock is disas-

sembled, the plate chainstays could be vulnerable to damage if you

do not perform these steps properly.

2—After placing the bike in the stand, remove the rear wheel.

3—Unscrew adjuster (part #11 pg. 9) all the way, using a Shimano (TL-

-UN74S) or Park (BBT-2) BB

tool. You may also use a 19mm

or a 3/4”socket wrench to

remove the adjuster.

4—Remove the main spring (part

#8 pg. 9). The spring can be

coaxed out by compressing the

shock by hand slightly. If you

are replacing the main spring

only, proceed to reassembly

step 5.

5—Remove the central bolt (part

#7 pg. 9) with a 5mm hex (aka

allen wrench). You may need to

compress the shock slightly to

reach the bolt head with the

wrench.

6—Slide the boot off the shock

Removing the Upper Stack

Lubrication

Rules number 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5: Do Not Mix Lubes

The Ripley comes factory lubed with SRAM Jonnisnot Silicon based lubricant. It

comes in a syringe, and the Ripley shock sleeve lube port is designed to be

lubricated using this syringe.

Please do not use any other lubricants, use only SRAM Jonnisnot.

Polyalaolephin based lubes attack polyurethane, and will ruin the springs! Also,

mixing of lubes can result in unknown and possibly detrimental reactions, skin

rash, bloated feelings general melancholy and a tendency to vote across party

lines.

1—Use only SRAM Jonnisnot (available at bike shops and from Ibis)

2—NEVER mix lubricants.

3—Cut off all but 1/2”of the

Jonnisnot syringe tip.

4—Clamp the seatpost in a bike

repair stand, getting all weight

off the rear wheel of the bike.

Using your hands, pull the

shock apart so the shock is at

maximum extension. This will

align the lube ports with the

chamfers on the damper discs.

5—Lift the bottom of the shock

boot up, revealing the lube

ports. Lube any two opposite

ports in the shock sleeve, the

adjacent ports are to verify the

pentetration of grease. Lube

only two ports, not all four.

6—Inject grease into the lube port

until it comes out the adjacent

port. This will take considerable

pressure on the syringe, and approximately 30 seconds of injection to fill

the shock. (Note: If you run a lot of preload and are unable to inject

grease, it’s likely that the lube ports are misaligned with the damper disc

chamfers. Loosen the shock adjuster until you are able to inject grease.

Reset the preload when you are done.)

7—Wipe away any excess grease and replace the shock boot.

Lubing with Jonnisnot

Burping Das Shock Boot

It’s no accident that the shock boot is not held on with zip ties. Unless you’re

in a nasty environment with lots of mud or dust, you don’t need to zip tie the

boot to the frame. Once the boot is set into place, it will find its own length

without any intervention by the user.

If you would like to zip tie the boot, there are a couple of steps you to follow.

1—Set the over all boot length to 3.1 inches end to end.

2—Pull up the one end of the boot slightly to allow equilibrium between the

inside and outside air. The technical term for this is “burping the boot”.

3—Zip tie

Following these three steps will allow proper expansion and contraction of the boot.

Disassembly

To simply lube the shock, you do not need to disassemble the shock. Instead,

go to the lube instructions above. Should you wish to disassemble the shock

for cleaning or replacement of any parts, use the following instructions:

1—When working on the Ripley shock, always use a bicycle repair stand,

and clamp the seatpost, not the frame. When the shock is disas-

sembled, the plate chainstays could be vulnerable to damage if you

do not perform these steps properly.

2—After placing the bike in the stand, remove the rear wheel.

3—Unscrew adjuster (part #11 pg. 9) all the way, using a Shimano (TL-

-UN74S) or Park (BBT-2) BB

tool. You may also use a 19mm

or a 3/4”socket wrench to

remove the adjuster.

4—Remove the main spring (part

#8 pg. 9). The spring can be

coaxed out by compressing the

shock by hand slightly. If you

are replacing the main spring

only, proceed to reassembly

step 5.

5—Remove the central bolt (part

#7 pg. 9) with a 5mm hex (aka

allen wrench). You may need to

compress the shock slightly to

reach the bolt head with the

wrench.

6—Slide the boot off the shock

Removing the Upper Stack

Initial Set Up

Use the following table as a guideline for setting up the Ripley for the first

time, and then go put a few hours riding on the bike. The numbers in the boxes

represent the rider’s weight. If you fall outside of these weights, contact Ibis

for different shock tuning set-ups.

eziSemarFdaolerPthgiL

)snrutowtsunim(

daolerPyrotcaF

)levart-dim(

daolerPyvaeH

)snrutowtsulp(

llamSartxE.sbl021-001.sbl041-021.sbl061-041

llamS.sbl041-021.sbl061-041.sbl081-061

muideM.sbl061-041.sbl081-061.sbl002-081

egraL.sbl081-061.sbl002-081.sbl022-002

egraLartxE.sbl002-081.sbl022-002.sbl042-022

Breaking In The Shock

Important: The microcellular polyurethane springs in the Ripley shock will

actually take some time to break in and take a set. Four hours of riding will be

adequate to set the springs. Once the sag has been set after the break in

period, heavier and more aggressive riders should check the sag every couple of

months.

Measuring and Setting Sag

After your break-in period you’ll need

to adjust the sag. When you sit on the

bike, the shock should sag 0.3-0.4".

You can fine-tune the shock to provide

the appropriate sag.

To measure the sag, we recommend

using a tape measure to record the

unsagged distance between the rear

axle and the seat post bolt (see

photo). Now sit on the bike in your

riding position, bounce up and down a

couple times gently to make sure you

get an accurate reading, and have

someone and re-measure the distance.

The difference between the first and

second measurement is known as the

sag. To increase the sag, turn adjuster

screw counter-clockwise. Clockwise

adjustment decreases sag (duh).

Setting the Sag

Remov-

ing the

Upper

Stack

body (also known as the shock sleeve-part #2 pg. 9)

7—Push the supple spring out (pg 7). If you are replacing the supple spring

not the main spring, proceed to reassembly step 4.

8—Slide the boot off the frame.

9—Loosen the pinch bolt on the frame and remove the aluminum shock

body, taking care not to spread the frame apart.

Inspection

While the shock is apart, inspect the boot for cracks or holes, replace if

necessary. Also check the shock body for gouges or worn anodization. Small

longitudinal scratches along the shock inner bore will not affect performance,

large gouges will. Replace if necessary. Inspect the main shock spring and

supple spring for bulging or cracks, and inspect the inner sleeve for wear or

damage. Replace worn components.

Reassembly

1—Using a cloth, clean all the parts you are reassembling, including threads

in shock sleeve and adjuster. Do not use solvents, as they could attack

the spring material.

2—Slide shock sleeve into frame, tighten pinch bolt to 40 inch pounds.

3—Slide boot onto 1" frame stub.

4—Upper Spring:

a) Spread a small amount of lube on the inside

bore of the supple spring.

b) Insert inner sleeve into the supple spring

(you’ll need to push hard).

c) Remove excess lube from each end of inner

sleeve, use q-tip to remove from lube from

inside the supple spring.

Important: Be sure to remove excess grease or

Loctite will not adhere.

d) Lube the outside surface (the portion which

glides on the shock body) of the supple spring

liberally and reinsert.

e) Apply light grade thread lock (Loctite®Threadlocker 242) to first half

inch of central bolt threads, insert and tighten to 60 inch pounds.

Important: this is a critical measurement, and improper torque can

cause failure of the shock bolt.

Supple Spring