Innovative Hobby Supply Clock Tower BK 6425 User manual

General AssemblyInstrucƟŽŶs– WŚŽƚŽReal BuildKits
by /ŶŶŽǀĂƟǀĞ Hobby Supply
Making dƌĂĚŝƟŽŶĂů ,ŽďďŝĞƐ ĞƩĞr!
INSTRUCTIONS FOR:
Kit BK 6425 ůŽĐŬdŽǁĞƌ Build Kit ~ ‘S’ scale
Viewsofthecompleted PhotoReal buildkit shownbelowarefor referencepurposesand as an aid inassembly.
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11610 Jay St. NW, MiŶŶĞapŽůŝƐ, MN 55448
CƵƐƚŽŵĞr ^ĞƌǀicĞ: 866-712-4059~ ĞŵĂŝů: iŶĨŽΛiŶŶŽǀĂƟǀĞŚŽďďyƐuƉƉůy.cŽŵ

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INTRODUCTION
Please read these step-by-step instrucƟonsthoroughly before you undertake any cuƫngor assembly. Then follow the simple step-by-step instrucƟons.This
build kit is an intermediate skill-level kit in our Photo Real Building Kitsproduct line. Assembly Ɵmeis approximately 2-3 hours. With just a liƩůe paƟenceand
the right tools, this amazing kit can be constructedby any hobbyist, oīering a more realisƟc-looking model than painted plasƟcforms. Printed on our
exclusive high-deĮniƟŽn‘Flex Stock’ material, these kits once assembled are very rugged and will provide many years of enjoyment on your train layout, slot
car track, or diorama.
AŌeryou’ve read through the assembly instrucƟŽnsonce, start again at the beginning and follow the steps carefully to cut and assemble the model. We
strongly recommend using a hot-melt mini-glue gun for assembling this kit. (Mini-glue guns are available at your local craŌstore, as well as many hardware
stores and drug stores, for less than $5.00.) Hot melt glue is easily controlled and sets-up fast, which greatly speeds-up the assembly Ɵmesince you don’t
need to wait for the glue to dry. UsĞhot-mĞlt gluĞsparingly: apply an amount just suĸcientto tack the items together. You can reinforce the bond surfaces
with a Įnal bead of hot glue – or with white glue – once you are saƟsĮedwith placement of component pieces.
These instrucƟonsinclude plenty of clear, full-color photographs to make assembly easier. As with all model assembly, some paƟenceis required. The skills
acquired in construcƟŶgyour Įrstbuilding kit will carry over to our other kits, which will make it easy for you to add as many buildings to your layout as you
desire – saving you Ɵmeand money and giving you beƩer results than for most molded plasƟc kits. Enjoy the most innovaƟveand realisƟcscale-model
building kits available.
GETTING STARTED
IMPORTANT: The most important skill in geƫŶŐ a good result is the technique of ‘scoring’ the material where indicated ;ĮŐ 1). Scoring
is simply making a shallow cut though the top layer of the paper with a sharp hobby knife (e.g., an X-acto knife) while using a ruler or
other straight edge.
&ŝŐƵƌĞ 1 - Scoring thĞmatĞƌial.
This technique is simple to learn, yet vital to geƫng a perfect fold – even on small parts! Using this technique helps to ensure a beĂƵƟĨƵů
trouble-free assembly. Without it, the folded edges tend to buckle unevenly and look bad when assembled.
WƌĂĐƟĐĞ on a scrap piece unƟů you have perfected your technique suĸciently to have coŶĮĚence. The hobby knife should be used for
scoring only! When cuƫng out parts completely, use a sharp scissors as this material is tough and does not cut easily with a knife.
Remember to always wear safety glasses when using sharp tools or hot glue guns. Keep all materials away from extreme heat or Ňames.
Adult supervision is required for those under age 16.
dŚĞƐĞ ĂƌĞ ƚŚĞ Important “Do’s” For ^ƵĐĐĞƐƐful ModĞl Building
ͻDo have the tools you need on-hand.
ͻDo pracƟce scoring and folding component parts.
ͻDo detail the cut edges with marker before assembly.
ͻDo test-Įt parts before gluing.

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Gather tools needed Cut-out carefully Always score Fold on desk edge Detail all edges
TOOLS AND TIPS
1) 'ĂƚŚĞƌ tools:The tools you’ll need include a hobby knife, a mini hot-glue gun, a ruler or straight-edge for scoring parts; a sharp,
modern scissors; a clear plasƟc bag or tray for storing and ƐĞƉĂƌĂƟŶŐ components from scrap, and a good-size tweezers – handy for
removing any hot-glue strings or webbing and for posiƟŽŶŝŶg and gluing small components.
You should also have on-hand some white glue for cemenƟng right and lĞŌ components together and a weighty object such as an
inexpensive heavy book or catalog to place over parts and holdthem ŇĂƚ while they dry. Gather waterproof markers (such as Sharpie-
brand markers) in red, black, brown, green and silver for detailing the cut white edges of parts. A pencil is useful for marking assembly
points and margins, such as a roof overhang. Zip-lock plasƟc bags are useful for storing small component pieces waiƟng to be assembled.
Clear tape can be used to temporarily hold components together from the inside areas prior to gluing. Paint is not needed.
Tip: Keep all your scrap in a small clear plasƟĐ bag or tray to separate it from your components. Keeping your workbench clear of scrap
will help to prevent losing or misplacing parts. If you do misplace a part, you’ll know where to look for it.
2) Carefully cut out all main components including the Ňoor, base, walls and roof. Use the appropriate colored marker to color the cut
edges by running the marker along the edge of each component part. For example, for a grass base use a green marker, and so on.
3) It’s important to test-Įt parts prior to gluing, since hot-glue sets up quickly. Being familiar with how component pieces Įt together
greatly reduces assembly Ɵme.
4) Follow the inƐƚƌƵĐƟŽŶƐ below in prepping and then assemble using the color photos as a reference to the wriƩĞŶ instruĐƟŽŶƐ The
illustrĂƟve photos provide a general guide to assembly and show parts similar to the actual parts you’ll be assembling.
'ĞŶĞƌĂů ƐƐĞŵďůLJ GuidĞ~ Fast dƌack Photos A-Z
Prepping Components
Cut-out main parts Score lightly along lines Cut-out all detail items Score detail items

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Fold and shape detail items Fold component parts Detail and test-Įƚ parts Glue fronts and backs
Detail all cut edges Assemble with hot glue Cut doors with hobby knife Open-up the doors
Detail door edges Detail pieces with correct colored marker Pre-assemble accessories

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Score all illusion rooms Fold illusion room Install illusion rooms behind doors for added realism
Cut-out awnings Score and fold awning Test-Įƚ folded awning Create hot-glue spacers
Detail edges on signs Cement signs to posts Score notched parts Create glue spacers for signs

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Assembling the Build Kit
Start with the front wall Reinforce from the back Glue 3rd wall to ½ the base Perfect corner joint
Fold the scored roof Test Įƚ glue Įrst at peak Finish ĂƩĂching roof Invert Ňat roof and trace
with pencil
Spindle to prep roof Glue to side of base ĮƌƐt Glue down corners Add roof vents with spacers

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Detailing with plants Figurines add movement and realism Typical completed illusion room
Important:Wear safety glasses when using sharp tools or
heated glue guns. Keep all materials away from extreme heat or
ŇĂŵĞƐ Adults must carefully supervise anyone under the age of
16 and assist in ĐƵƫŶŐ and gluing. Remember to unplug your
glue gun when not in use and follow the manufacturer’s safety
guidelines.
NotĞ Prepping all components for assembly is very important
since detailing is not easily done aŌer assembly. Please read
and follow these steps carefully.
1. ƵƫŶŐ Carefully cut-out all main components with a
sharp scissors including the walls, roof and base. Be sure
you cut straight and smooth, taking long strokes. Set the
components aside for later assembly.
2. Cut out all components that have a front and back or ůĞŌ
and right sides. These are the components that will show
both sides such as Ňags, large signs, sign supports (if any)
and so forth.
3. Use a very thin layer of white glue applied to one side only
of ůĞŌƌight matching pieces. Line them up carefully and
press them together. Wipe oīany excess glue and lay
them under a heavy object such as a book for about 10-15
minutes to dry. This will keep them perfectly ŇĂƚ as they
dry. The glue will set while you are prepping other parts.
4. Cut out small components and props. Cut out the rest of any
small components such as props, roof-vents, garbage cans,
signs with corner notches (see SecƟon L - notching) and other
small components. Keep these in a separate zip lock bag sorted
in categories.
5. ^ĐŽƌŝŶŐ and foůĚŝŶŐ componĞnts:Score all components
that will be folded, such as 3D signs, chimneys, garbage
dumpsters, gas pumps, awnings and items with a notch in
each corner such as gas pumps, canopies, and the like.
These items are easily idenƟĮed by the white or gray
lines on the printed surface.
Important:Scoring of components that are designed to be
folded is crucial in obtaining a crisp fold with clean straight
lines! Otherwise, the material will crease unevenly when you
fold it.
6. ^ĐŽƌŝŶŐ ŵĞƚŚŽĚ:WƌĂĐƟĐe your scoring cut several Ɵmes
on scrap material before you move on to scoring
components. Line up your ruler or other straight edge along
the thin score line shown. Use suĸcient pressure so the
component piece does not move or ƐŚŝŌ while you score it.
With one pass of a sharp hobby knife and gentle even
pressure cut just deep enough to the uppermost layer of
the material.
7. Using the sharp edge of a table of desk, fold it along the
score line. The fold should come out very crisp and straight.
Using this technique, perfect folds as narrow as 18 in.
wide can be achieved every Ɵme.
8. When you are saƟƐĮed with your scoring technique, score
and fold those components and set them aside for later
assembly.
9. ĞƚĂŝůŝŶŐ ĞĚŐĞs: For the best looking, most reĂůŝƐƟc
outcome, it’s important to detail the white, exposed edges
of components prior to Įnal assembly by coloring them
with the appropriate colored marker. Using the side edge
of the marker, carefully but quickly follow along the cut
edge of each component unƟl the exposed white material
is colored-in. Move the marker along without pausing to
avoid staining the component surfaces by allowing ink to
soak in.
10. Don’t forget to detail the double-sided components that
you glued together previously. They should now be dry
ready for detailing, as well.
11. Components with folds can now also be lightly marked to
cover any exposed white material along the fold. Do this
with the Ɵp of an appropriate colored marker by just lightly
ĚŽƫŶg it over the corner area to break-up the white line
caused by scoring and folding.
12.WƌĞpƉŝŶŐ illusion rooms and rĞvĞĂliŶŐ doors: It’s now
Ɵme to prep the revealing doors so they’ll open to show
the interior illusion rooms -- such as stock rooms, rest
rooms and store shelves – for enhanced realism. Refer to
the photographs and be sure you understand the method
before proceeding.
'ĞnĞƌal AssĞŵbly GuidĞ~ Fast Track InstrucƟŽŶs A-Z
Prepping Components

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13. Not all build kits have illusion rooms, but some have
several of them. Illusion rooms are denoted by their three-
sided form, which will need to be scored and folded at the
side walls. Cut them out, score and fold them. Then detail
them with the appropriate colored marker at the boƩom
edge only.
14. To prep the revealing doors, Įrst look for the hinge side
opposite of the door knob. Lightly score the material at the
hinge side. Using the hobby knife and a straight-edge, cut
out the door top inside the door frame. This will usually
take several passes with the hobby knife to cut all the way
through the material. Use the Įrst pass with just medium
pressure to score the upper surface and create a track for
the blade to follow on subsequent passes.
15. Now cut the boƩom of the revealing door above the
founĚĂƟŽn, which generally extends about 3/16 in. up from
the ďŽƩŽŵ. Then cut the door-knob side just inside the
door frame to complete freeing the door.
Important:Do not tear open the door! This will create rough
edges and may damage the door or frame.
16. Cut carefully and test the revealing door to see if it will
open easily. If not, take addiƟonal passes with the hobby
knife unƟl it does. Do not tear the material! Once free, fold
the revealing door to the inward side and then outward.
Edge around the door perimeter with a brown marker and
use a silver maker to detail the inside jamb.
17.Installing illusion rooms: Plug in the mini glue-gun and
let it pre-heat for 5 minutes. Using hot glue, ĂƩach the
illusion rooms centered behind their corresponding
revealing doors. Tack the illusion room component from
behind the door to the inside wall surface while keeping
the boƩom perfectly ŇƵƐŚ with your work surface to
ensure there is no gap where it will be fastened to the
base.
18. Set aside the walls that are prepped with illusion rooms
and revealing doors.
19.WƌĞp thĞawnings:use a sharp scissors to carefully cut-
out and score the back side of the awning that will be
folded down and used as the ĂƩĂĐŚŵĞŶƚ strip. For ruŋĞĚ
awnings, rotate the material instead of the scissors. If
desired, leave a margin of white border at the edges to
represent a basted edge, as shown in the photo. Use the
appropriate color market to detail-out the white edges
along the colored ƉŽƌƟons. Using the sharp edge of a desk
or table, shape the awning to give it a ƐŽŌ gradual curve as
shown. Set the pieces aside for later assembly.
20.WƌĞp thĞdĞtail itĞms: There are bonus items included
with most build kits that you may or may not want to use
such as pennants, road signs, garbage cans and dumpsters.
Should you choose not to use them, we recommend that
ƐƟůl you cut them out, score, fold and edge them. Then
store these Įnished components in a safe place for future
use with other build kits.
21.WƌĞp thĞroof ǀĞŶƚƐ Most build kits come with ĂĚĚŝƟŽŶĂů
3D roof vents that aƩĂĐh directly over the printed vents.
The 3D vents enhance the sense of realism. Ōer cuƫŶg
out and edging them with the appropriate colored marker,
apply a single thick dollop of hot glue in the center to act as
a spacer. This spacer will to liŌup the vents about a 1/8-in.
Žī the surface of the roof for added realism. Apply the
glue, allow it to cool, and set aside the roof vents for later
assembly.
22.WƌĞp thĞsigns:Some of the build kits – such as the gas
staƟon – have large signs with a separate border
component. These borders should be installed with white
glue. If required, score and fold the border components
now and set them aside for later assembly. Other signs can
be cut out and edged with the appropriate color marker
and set aside.
23.PropĞr notching ƚĞĐŚŶŝquĞ:To notch and cut out items
with shallow 90-degree corners, use just the Ɵp of the
scissors to cut up to the stop point and then cut the
remaining side by ƌŽƚĂƟŶg the material 90-degrees.
Notched items are always intended to be folded to form a
box, so scoring at the score lines prior folding is ĞƐƐĞŶƟĂů.
Tip: Everything should now be prepared for ĮŶĂů assembly. We
recommend that you take a short break before undertaking
ĐŽŵƉůĞƟŽŶ of your Photo Real build kit.
Final Assembly
NotĞs: For best results, refer to the photos provided in the
previous seĐƟŽn that show the front, side, rear and close-up
views for assembly reference, in aĚĚŝƟon to following the
ŝŶƐƚƌƵĐƟŽŶƐ below.
The word “tacking” is ŽŌĞŶ used throughout these instrucƟons
and simply means applying a minimal amount of glue in a small
spot just suĸcient to hold a component in place for Įnal
assembly. If the component is not placed perfectly, it can easily
be ƌĞƉŽƐŝƟŽŶed. Tacking components in place and reinforcing
them later is an important technique in achieving a perfect
assembly.
ƐƐĞŵďůŝŶŐ thĞWalls and BaƐĞ
There are three types of walls:
1st dLJƉĞ ~ With smaller build kits – such as garden houses
– the walls are ĐŽŶƟnuous. These components just need to
be scored, folded and tacked in place to the base before
reinforcing them, since there is only one corner joint.
2nd dLJƉĞ ~ For other models – such as the general store –
the walls come in 2 secƟons that again just need to be
scored and folded with two corner joints to complete.
3rd TypĞ~ Build kits for larger models have four separate walls
and must be aƩached at each of the four corner joints.
Examine the base for visual features such as sidewalks,
porches, etc. that indicate where to aƩach the front wall to
the base. For example, the front door will correspond to
the front walk.
Tip: Hardened hot-melt glued is reacƟvated by simply touching
the Ɵp of the hot melt glue gun to any areas that you want to
re-melt or smooth out.
Tip: Before you aƩempt to assemble the walls of a build kit for
the Įrst Ɵme, prĂĐƟĐe gluing several verƟĐĂl wall joints to a
base using pieces of scrap material. Read the instrƵĐƟŽŶƐ below
and prĂĐƟĐe on some throw away pieces of FlexStock material.
1. Front Wall ~ Start with the front main wall, using hot glue
tack about ½-in. of the lower ůĞŌ-hand corner in place
along the boƩom edge of the wall. Make sure the
placement is correct: square with the foundaƟon and lined
up correctly.
2. Next, applying slight tension on the wall to align it with the
base and keeping the wall straight, tack the other corner
down. Hold in place ƵŶƟů the glue cools and the wall stands

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upright on its own. Carefully inspect the placement to
ensure the wall-to-base joint is correct, since the other
three walls will “key” Žī this Įrst joint. When you are
ƐĂƟƐĮĞĚ you can add more hot glue to reinforce it the
wall/base joint. Simply run a small bead along the joint and
allow the glue to cool, while conƟŶƵing to hold the wall
upright. You are now ready to ĂƩach the next wall.
3. First SidĞWall ~ Tack one of the side walls to the base
and corner simultaneously from inside the assembly at the
corner joint, making sure both walls meet to make a 90-
degree angle. Tack the top corner where the two walls
meet, then tack the middle of the walls joint. When you are
saƟƐĮed that the walls and base are properly ƉŽƐŝƟŽŶed,
apply a bead of glue along the rest of the joint, holding it
together unƟl the glue cools a bit.
4. Tack the remaining boƩom corner of the side wall to the
base while applying slight tension to keep it straight and
holding the wall upright. Allow the glue to cool. When you
are saƟƐĮed with the placement, tack the side wall to the
base in several places along the wall-to-base joint from
inside the assembly. Allow the glue to cool. Carefully
examine the assembly to this point. Once you are saƟsĮed,
start at the corner joint and run a bead of hot glue no more
than halfway along the ďŽƩom joint to reinforce the bond.
Proceed to Step 5.
5. Tip: The secret to success is to Įrst tack the walls and
corners together in the proper ƉŽƐŝƟŽŶƐ For the corner
joints, you’ll want to tack the two walls together and to the
base at the same ƟŵĞ This will hold everything in place
perfectly to assemble the remaining walls
6. ^ĞĐŽŶĚ SidĞWall ~ Repeat Steps 3 and 4 to ĂƩach the
second side wall. Again, only apply the ĮŶĂů reinforcing
bead of glue half way along the joint. This provides
ƐƵĸĐŝĞŶƚ Ňexibility to ensure the last corner joint can be
glued together without leaving any gaps.
7. BaĐŬ Wall ~ Dry Įt the back wall fully in contact with the
two side walls and the base. Ensure that all the corner
joints Įt perfectly. From inside the assembly, tack the
ďŽƩŽŵ corner of the back wall to the Įrst side wall. Tack
the top corners of the two walls together then tack the
joint in the middle. Allow the glue to cool. When you are
saƟƐĮed with the placement, run a reinforcing bead of glue
halfway along the walls joint from about the middle to the
base. Allow the glue to cool before proceeding.
8. Make sure the ďŽƩŽŵ corner of the back wall is ŇƵƐŚ with
both the boƩom corner of the side wall and the base. Tack
the boƩom corner into place and allow the glue to cool.
Now follow the same procedure in Step 6 to ĂƩach the
opposite side of the back wall to the second side wall.
9. Examine the assembly. If all looks good, ĮŶŝƐh tacking the
back wall to the base along the joint. Allow the glue to cool.
Now ĮŶŝƐh applying a reinforcing bead along the four wall
joints and four base joints to complete this ƉŽƌƟŽŶ of the
assembly.
ƐƐĞŵďůŝŶŐ thĞRoof
There are Įve types of roofs:
I. Flat roofs ~ are ŽŌĞŶ found on commercial buildings like
hotels andhospitals. Build kits with ŇĂƚ roofs over hang the
walls by small margin or border to provide a working space for
gluing. For this type of roof, it is very important to test Įt the
roof prior to Įnal assembly to see how much margin is
provided.
a. Invert the assembly and lay it on top of the roof component
showing boƩom side up. Adjust the posiƟon of the assembly so
the margin is even on all sides. Then trace the overhang margin
with a sharp pencil. This pencil line shows proper placement of
the upper walls to the roof and where to apply the glue.
b. Tack the roof to the front wall in several places. Then tack
the back wall while applying slight downward pressure to
keep the roof Ɵght to the back wall. Allow the glue to cool.
Now aƩach each of the four corners, one at a Ɵme, while
applying downward pressure and allowing the glue to cool.
Đ.Examine the assembly and when all looks good, reinforce
the four joints all along the roof. Slip the Ɵp of the mini
glue-gun just between the roof and wall to run a thin bead
of glue around the perimeter. Ʃach one side at a Ɵme
while applying slight downward pressure and allow one
side to cool before proceeding to the next.
Tip: Once the roof is fully ĂƩached and the glue has cooled, the
structural strength of the assembly becomes readily appareŶƚ
II. WŝƚĐhĞd roofs ~ are ŽŌĞŶ found on residenƟal homes and
smaller commercial buildings such as chain restaurants. Build
kits with pitched roofs are always scored and folded. Start by
making sure the angle of the fold is correct. Test Įt the roof to
the assembly to determine how much the roof overhangs the
walls while making sure is evenly ƉŽƐŝƟŽŶed front to back and
sides.
a. Look for any cutouts in the roof for chimneys, vents, etc.
and remove these using a hobby knife before ĂƩaching the
roof.
b. Hold the roof in posiƟon and trace along the walls with a
pencil where the walls meet the roof. This pencil line will
indicate the proper placement of the upper walls to the
roof and show you where to apply the glue.
Đ.Start with the front peak and tack it into posiƟŽŶ while
applying gentle pressure to ensure the peak makes good
contact with the wall. Allow the glue to cool. Do the same
for the opposite side. At about the mid-line of the roof over
one side wall, apply gentle pressure and tack the roof to
the side wall. Do the same for the opposite side.
NotĞ Some angled roofs (such as the ‘Sugar Creek Farm’ kit)
have a slight upliŌat the endPre-shape the roof component by
gently bending the ends of the roof upwards and test the Įƚ
Repeat as necessary ƵŶƟů you achieve consistent contact all
arounĚ The FlexStock material will conform exactly when you
apply slight downward pressure while gluing down the corner
areas of the roof to the side walls
d. Tack each corner of the roof in place. Then apply a ½-in.
bead of glue along the pencil line on one side at 2-inch
intervals while applying gently pressure to the roof and
wall to ensure good contact. Allow the glue to cool. Do the
same for the opposite side. Then follow this procedure for
the remaining two walls. Once the tacking glue is fully set
and you are saƟsĮed with the results, apply a bead of glue
along the enƟre wall-to-roof joint on all four sides.
III. ƵƌǀĞĚ roofs ~ are ŽŌĞŶ found on specialized commercial
buildings such as Quonset huts and airplane hangars. Curved
roofs are formed Įrst by shaping the roof component on the
sharp edge of a desk or table print-side-up just enough to get a
curve started. Now roll the material in a loose spindle being
careful not to crease it to shape the curve a liƩle more.

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a. Check the match to the curved walls of the assembly. If a
ƟŐŚƚĞƌ curvature is needed, spindle the roof component a
liƩle ƟŐŚƚĞƌ than before and check the Įt again. Repeat
this process unƟů the right amount of curvature is achieved.
Make sure the curved roof makes good contact with the
curved walls and, when you are ƐĂƟƐĮĞĚ invert the roof
and assembly and tack the roof in place using place starƟng
at the crown aƩĂching Įrst one curved wall and then the
remaining wall. Then tack the sides of the roof to the base.
Complete the assembly by running a thin bead of glue
along all four joints.
IV. Hip roofs: This pyramid type of roof is used on the light
colored garden house and is simple to assemble and install.
Cut the four notches at the Ɵps, score and fold. Cut out the four
angled notches and assemble from the back side using hot glue.
Just tack together small areas at a Ɵme. When you are saƟƐĮĞĚ
reinforce the assembly then from the back side.
V. Conical roofs: This type roof is used on grain silos and bins.
Just score at all the fold areas, fold at the score lines and shape
into a cone. The ĚŝƐƟŶĐƟǀĞ mulƟ-faceted roof shape will
happen naturally. Then glue at the ŇĂƉ from underneath.
AssĞŵbling OthĞr StructurĞs and DĞtail ItĞŵs
I. Cylindrical/tubular structurĞs~ are used for specialized
structures such as silos, grain bins and chimneys. Like curved
roofs, you Įrst shape the tube by stropping it gently on the
sharp edge of a desk or table to start the curve. Then spindle
the material into a loose roll. Work carefully to avoid creasing
it. Keep working the material ƵŶƟů you achieve the proper
tubular shape and circumference, allowing a slight overlap for
bonding the edges together.
a. Use clear tape in three places at the top boƩom and mid-
point of the joint to hold the tube in shape for gluing while
making sure the top and boƩom openings are ŇƵƐŚ Tack
the tube at the top of the joint, then tack the ďŽƩŽŵ and
ĮŶally tack the middle. Allow the glue to cool. To reinforce
the joint, tuck the Ɵp of the glue gun under the overlap to
inject a thin bead of glue along the joint and press the two
sides of the material together.
II. ChiŵnĞys: Square and rectangular tube-type structures
such as chimneys Įrst must be scored with a hobby knife
and then folded on the sharp edge of a desk or table.
a. Prior to assembly, detail the inside surfaces with black or
dark brown marker to simulate soot. Allow the marker to
dry.
b. Form the chimney into its proper shape and use clear tape
on the top and ďŽƩŽŵ of the joint to hold the tube in
shape for gluing. Tack along the joint in several places and
allow the glue to cool.
c. Now glue along the joint an inch at a Ɵme, press the edges
together and allow the glue to cool. If there is a thru-hole in the
roof for a tall exterior-type chimney, slide the chimney through
the hole and aƩach it to the base only in a straight upright
posiƟon.
d. If the chimney is the angled type, you can aƩĂĐh it
anywhere on the roof that you desire. Apply a generous
bead of glue on the inside of the chimney on the lower-
most ďŽƩŽŵ edge place it in posiƟon on the roof. The glue
will slowly run down while ƐƟll hot and aƩach the chimney
to the roof from the inside. Using this method, no glue will
show. Glue a light, thin swatch of ĐŽƩon to the inside of
the chimney to simulate smoke.
III. Roof ǀĞŶƚƐ:In most cases, roof vents are already printed
on the roof component. If you prefer, for added realism, you
can install 3D detail roof vents over the top of the printed
vents. These 3D detail vents look great when installed with a
small space between the roof and the vent. You create a 1/8-in.
spacer by applying a raised drop of glue on the backside of the
detail vent and allowing it to cool. Then re-heat the glue or add
a small extra drop and posiƟon the 3D detail vents over the
printed vents.
a. For even greater realism, cut a 3/8-in. piece of a common
plasƟc drinking straw and use silver market to color it. Cut
the straw at the same angle as the pitch of the roof (if any).
Glue it from the inside of the straw so no glue shows. These
can be added to any building.
IV. GardĞns: Some kits include small ŇŽwer and vegetable
gardens. To make these more dramaƟc, use the glue spacer
technique. Place a sizable dollop of glue in the middle of the
garden component and allow it to cool. Then glue the edges
down by pressing down Įƌŵůy along the edges as you aƩach
the garden component to the base.
a. The center will be raised to provide added realism. You can
then add bits of dried moss or lichen for an even more
impressive look. The Sugar Creek Farm build kit has a raised
garden. First notch, fold and glue the corners. Then add
raised and spaced drops of glue to the back side for
support. Finally, glue the raised garden to the base.
V. SpaĐĞƌƐ for big signs: Some build kits include two-sided
signs, such as the drive-in theater marquee sign. Experienced
modelers may want to include a light-weight spacer such as thin
foam core material between the two halves to obtain more
thickness. You are limited only by your ƉĂƟence and creaƟǀŝƚLJ
VI. Wall signs: Build kits for commercial-type buildings include
extra business signs and wall signs. These can be ĂƩached over
exisƟng printed signs on the exterior surfaces, or added on a
blank part of the wall. Cut out and detail the edges and glue in
place with white glue. Or, for a more dramaƟc look, make a
glue spacer around the back side perimeter to suspend the
signs Žī the wall a bit.
VII. StƌĞĞt signs: Find the Ultra Sign sample post included and
ĂƩĂch it as shown in photos. Use a drop of hot glue to aƩach it
to the base.
VIII. Touching-up gluĞjoints and ĐŽƌŶĞƌƐ:This can be done
from the outside of the assembly. First pre heat the mini glue gun
for Įve minutes to ƐŽŌen any extraneous glue on the nozzle and
wipe it oīusing a thick clean rag. Then, with a clean nozzle, use the
side to iron out any protruding glue bumps. With an appropriate
colored marker, dot the corners lightly to blend in any color needed
to make the corner look smooth and solid. Any unwanted hot glue
can be gently scraped oīwith a ĮŶger nail or Popsicle sƟck.
a. Small mistakes on your assembly can be covered with
lichen or touched-up with a marker. Houses and buildings
are seldom perfect in real-life and slight imperfecƟŽŶs
should not be ŶŽƟĐed in nay case.
IX. RaĐĞ sponsor fĞncing: This type of fencing – or fence
barrier – is for the Race Tower and Raceway Ticket Booth build
kits. The Įrst step is to carefully cut out the fencing just outside
the red line, then detail the edges with a red marker using the

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side edge of the marker. Quickly follow along the edge of the
material to prevent saturaƟŽŶ stains.
a. Next, glue the front and back sides of the fencing together
using a thin coat of white glue. Place the joined halves
under a heavy object such as a book for 15 minutes to
prevent warping while the glue sets up. Do the same for all
fencing or barriers provided with your kit.
b. Ōer the glue is set, you can begin shaping the curves as
shown in the photos. Be careful to not crease the fence
components while you are shaping them. Prior to ĂƩaching
the fence components to the base, detail them again with
red marker to ensure that no white edges show. Test Įt all
fence components at the same Ɵme before ĂƩaching them
to the base using hot glue.
X. Using lichĞŶ and plants: We recommend using dried
lichen or other, beƩĞƌ-looking scale plant material to your scale
project to represent plants, trees, bushes and shrubs. You can
ĂƩĂch these materials to the base quickly and eĸĐŝĞŶƚly using
hot glue. Sidewalks that are bordered with shrubs look
especially good and create an enhanced sense of realism.
Placing a few shrubs or bushes along the fouŶĚĂƟon of any
building breaks up the straight lines and adds scale-realisƟc
detail to any Photo Real build kit.
XI. Flags: Cut out right and ůĞŌ sides or front and back. Glue
together with a small amount of white glue. The printed poles
should be cut Žī Detail the edges with correct color marker
when dry.
a. Straighten a paper clip and cut small straight ƐĞĐƟŽŶƐ as
desired for use as a Ňag pole. Hot glue edge of ŇĂŐ to pole.
Place pole where desired using hot glue.
XII. WĞnnants and bannĞƌs: pennants are mainly used with
automoƟve-themed build kits. Trim them using the Ɵp of the
scissors while making sure to not get too close to the simulated
string area.
b. Snip-cut one side of a pennant ŇĂŐ angle and then Ňŝp over
the material and do the same ƵŶƟů the scrap triangle pieces
fall away. For ƉĂƟĞŶƚ modelers, each colored triangle can
be cut out and hot glued onto a piece of string. Color the
edges with the appropriate colored markers for enhanced
realism.
XIII. Bonus bannĞƌs: If included, bonus banners can be
carefully cut out and applied to blank areas of your assembly or
ĂƩĂĐŚĞĚ to an Ultra Fence layout as explained below. A banner
will have small, printed ropes but you can remove these and
add simulated rope (such as thick string) to each corner with a
dab of hot glue on the back side.
XIV. Chain-link/huƌƌicanĞfĞncing: InnovaƟve Hobby Supply
ŽīĞƌƐ a properly scaled model accessory called Ultra-Fence that
simulates chain-link or hurricane fencing. Ultra-Fence is usually
available where this kit was sold, or is available for purchase
online. You can use Ultra-Fence with Ultra Sign signpost, also
available at your favorite hobby store or online. Scale fencing
creates greatly enhanced realism when used with your favorite
build kits.
XV. ĞƚĂŝůŝŶŐ thĞbaƐĞ:ƩĂĐh the base to your layout using
your favorite cement or adhesive. Use of the build kit base
component is enƟrely up to you. However, please include the
base component during assembly to ensure a good assembly
result. Ōer assembly is complete, if desired, trim oīthe base
to within ¼-in. of the building founĚĂƟŽŶ You can also trim Žī
certain ƉŽƌƟŽns of the base to Įt your exisƟng project layout.
a. Base components are designed to blend into your exisƟŶg
layout by decorĂƟŶŐ them with scale landscape materials.
You also can aƩĂch popular substrates to any of our bases
using white glue, such as standard sand, rock, and grass
materials.
The skills you have learned in assembling this build kit will
make construcƟŶŐ any of our line of Photo ZĞĂů Build Kits
faster and easier. Check out our enƟƌĞ line of photo-
ƌĞĂůŝƐƟĐ build kits at www.innovaƟvehobbysupply.com