J/Boats J 35 User manual

J/80 Owner Guide 2
Copyright © J/Boats, Inc., 2007
Introduction
WELCOME ABOARD and welcome to J/Boats’ family of owners. Your boat is designed
and engineered to be the strongest, best performing, easiest-to-use, and most
comfortable sailing boat of its type.
J/Boats has prepared this guide to familiarize you with rigging, tuning, and operating the
J/80. Before we begin please be sure to:
COMPLETE THE WARRANTY CARD AND MAIL TO PEARSON COMPOSITES
This guide is furnished for your benefit, but shall in no way be construed as any sort of
warranty or contract, express or implied, creating any obligation on the part of J Boats,
Inc., with respect to any fact or facts or any advice or opinions contained herein.
The sole and exclusive warranty of the product is the Pearson Composites, LLC.
Warranty described in the appendix hereto and on the Warranty Card furnished with the
yacht.
J/BOATS, INC. HEREBY DISCLAIMS ANY AND ALL WARRANTIES, EXPRESS OR
IMPLIED, INCLUDING ANY WARRANTY OF FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR
PURPOSE OR ANY IMPLIED WARRANTY OF MERCHANTABILITY.

J/80 Owner Guide 3
Copyright © J/Boats, Inc., 2007
2007J/80 Fact Sheet
LOA 26.3 100% Sail Area 337
LWL 22.9 I 31.50
Beam 8.3 J 9.50
Draft 4.9 P 30.00
Displacement 2,900 E 12.50
Engine Obd. J/Sprit 6.25
Water N/
A
Dspl/L 108
Keel (lead) 1,400 SA/Dspl 26
Headroom 4'0" One Design PHRF Rating 123
Height of Boat Only w/Keel 9' Mast height above water 37'6"
Running Rigging Mast & Boom
Material Dia. Length
Main Halyard Spectra 8mm 72' Builder Sparcraft
Jib Halyard Spectra 8mm 62.4' Mast Section IMS 80
Spin Halyard Polyester 8mm 75.5' Boom Section F60
Tack Line Polyester 8mm 42.7' Tack Set-up 1-3/8"
Sprit Control Polyester 8mm 23' Tack Set-back 1-1/2"
Clew Reef Polyester 8mm 39.4' Clew Set-up Slug
Feeder Type Milled Slot
Main Sheet Polyester 8mm 55.8' Finish Anodized
Jib Sheets (2) Polyester 10mm 26' ea
Spin Sheet (continuous) Polyester 10mm 118'
Cunningham Polyester 6mm 10'
Boom Vang Polyester 10mm 15'
Vang Strop (below lower block) Wire 5/32" 1' 7 x 19 stainless
Vang Cascade Wire 5/32" 5' 7 x 19 stainless
Sprit Shock Cord Cord 5/16" 10'
Backstay Control Polyester 6mm 59'
Traveler Control Polyester 8mm 19'
Sparcraft Standing Rigging
Dia. Length Term1 Term Pin
Headstay w/Harken Unit 00A furl
e
5mm Dyform 32'11" 5/16"
Upper backsta
y
4mm 28'3-1/4" eye
Lower backstay legs (2) 3mm 9'10-1/8" trbkl 1/4"
Upper shrouds 5mm 31'5" trbkl 5/16"
Intermediates 4mm 21'11-3/8" trbkl 5/16"
Lower shrouds 5mm 11'7-1/4" trbkl 5/16"
For Boats Built by Pearson Composites Beginning 6-07
NOTE: Standing rigging dimensions differ slightly from older Hall Spars equipped boats.

J/80 Owner Guide 4
Copyright © J/Boats, Inc., 2007
Commissioning Checklist
Pre-Launch
___ Read equipment owner manuals
___ Pre-rig mast and check installation of:
•halyards
•blocks
•electronics
•shrouds
•spreader chafe guards
•lifeline pins
___ Pre-rig boom
___ Bottom painted or touched up
___ De-winterize outboard engine
___ Check battery charge
Loose Gear
___ Fenders and lines
___ Dock lines
___ Winch handles
___ Bilge pump & bucket
___ Mast wedges ready
Step Mast
___ Hoist spar and lower into boat
___ Attach furler to stemhead fitting
___ Attach backstay
___ Attach all shrouds and hand tighten
___ Install wedges and mast boot
Rigging
___ Install boom
___ Rerun halyards in mast
___ Rig reef line
___ Install and connect boom vang
___ Rough tune spar per tuning guide

J/80 Owner Guide 5
Copyright © J/Boats, Inc., 2007
Getting Started With Your J/80
Generally, your dealer will help you prepare your boat before launching. They are
experts in the field and are capable of completing most commissioning tasks.
Before Proceeding
Before you begin to assemble your new boat you should become familiar with the
different sail control systems and associated hardware. All running rigging and loose
deck hardware items are shipped from the factory in parts boxes complete with part
inventory sheets. To help you properly install these items please refer to the rigging
and hardware sections and diagrams in this guide.
The Commissioning Checklist: will help you double check that the J/80 is assembled
properly and all systems and rigging are functioning properly. If a boatyard other than
an authorized J/Boat dealer is performing the work, review this list with them to
establish what needs to be done and by whom.
Topsides: wash off all the dirt and grime accumulated from delivery. Use only non-
abrasive cleansers on the gelcoat. Then apply a coat of high quality carnauba car or
boat wax or use a synthetic poly-based coating. Either finish will prolong the life and
sheen of the gelcoat.
Bottom: preparation is critical to long-lasting enjoyment. To ensure a professional finish
carefully review the paint manufacturers recommendations for preparing the bottom,
and have your dealer to roll it or spray it on. Be sure that there are a minimum of 4
coats of epoxy primer covering the keel and rudder prior to final coating of bottom paint.
Deck Hardware
Chainplates: are custom built of polished 304 grade stainless steel. Each pair
surrounds the main structural bulkhead and is anchored directly to it with bolts. The
backstay chainplate is also 304 grade and through bolts directly to a reinforced area of
the transom.
Stemhead Fitting: is a custom polished 304 grade stainless fabrication. It is designed to
withstand all headstay loads, and is attached with bolts directly to the stem of the hull.
Toe Rail: is low maintenance white plastic extrusion, which is attached through the
Hull/deck joint and between custom stanchion bases where necessary.
Stanchions & Pulpits: are designed for proper offshore safety as well as to facilitate
access to the boat. The bow pulpit is properly braced with a mid-height bar across the
front end, to allow easier handling of the spinnaker. The stern push-pit is arranged with
an aft gate, stern running light, and is a convenient place to mount an outboard bracket,
etc.. All stanchions are 1” diameter tapered stainless steel, which fit into stainless steel
bases. The stanchion gates are well supported with an additional bar and socket.

J/80 Owner Guide 6
Copyright © J/Boats, Inc., 2007
Lifelines: are SS wire and are fastened at either end by stainless forks and turnbuckles.
Each lifeline is clearly marked from the factory and is intended to fit a specific portion of
the lifeline/stanchion system.
Skylight Ventilation Hatch: is made of extruded anodized aluminum frames and scratch-
resistant acrylic covers. This is the “Ocean Hatch” from Lewmar Marine’s Ocean Series
hardware line. The hatch is equipped with a ventilation position and 180 degree
articulation
DO NOT PERMIT ACETONE OR OTHER HARSH CLEANSERS TO GET ON
PORTS OR HATCHES AS THEY MAY DAMAGE THE FINISH & CLARITY OF
SOME DECK HARDWARE.
Deckhouse Handrails: are 304 grade stainless and replace the traditional teak to
facilitate easy of maintenance and ownership.
Winches: standard winches are Harken 32-2A two speed winches. The location of the
winches facilitates sailing with one or two aboard. They are geared to match the load
requirements of the specific task.

J/80 Owner Guide 7
Copyright © J/Boats, Inc., 2007
J/80 Rigging & Tuning Guide
Tools needed for rigging your J/80:
•Phillips head screwdriver
•Flat head screwdriver
•Adjustable wrench
•Portable Drill
•Needle nose pliers
•Knife/scissors
•WD-40 or Superlube
Mast & Boom Commissioning
Mast: Find two saw-horse supports and cover with padding or carpeting to support the
mast. Carefully remove all protective packaging from the new mast and spreaders. The
roller furler is shipped pre-assembled from the factory and should be carefully handled
while commissioning. Locate and remove the four standard spreaders taped to the
mast and put aside in a clean area. Locate all wire rigging and standard halyards (3)
from the running rigging box inside the J/80.
Attach each halyard tail to the end of the appropriate messenger lines pre-installed in
the mast. The main halyard feeds into the mast crane at the top of the mast, the
spinnaker halyard feeds through the block 18” above the headstay connection, then up
to the spinnaker halyard sheave, and the jib halyard, just below the headstay
connection. The main halyard leads to port to a horn cleat on the side of the mast and
jib halyard exit to port leading to double aligned Harken cam cleats. The spinnaker
halyard leads to starboard down to a turning block on the mast and aft to a large cam
cleat on the cabin top.
Be sure when you attach the halyard to the messenger that you tie an appropriate knot
or else you risk losing the messenger line into the mast. A good idea is to tape over
your knot with rigging or duct tape.
After all the halyards are installed, you can install both sets of spreaders. Make sure
that the halyards lead behind the spreader bars inside the mast tube. A long screw
driver can help with this. Pin and tape the spreaders.
Next, you are ready to install the shrouds. This is very simple. Beginning with the
upper shrouds, insert the “T” fitting on the end of each shroud into the mast termination
hole and twist 90 degrees. Follow the same procedure for the other five remaining
shrouds.
•Install the shrouds into the spreader end slots and slightly tighten the stainless end
plate (do not over-tighten these).
•Tape the spreader ends thoroughly with rigging tape and/or rubber boots.
•Slide the preformed mast collar on the bottom of the mast and install an optional
Windex at the top of the mast if desired. Proceed to the tuning section for post
mast-stepping tips and instructions.

J/80 Owner Guide 8
Copyright © J/Boats, Inc., 2007
Boom: The outhaul is assembled at Sparcraft and is delivered in rigged configuration.
Messenger lines are provided if you wish to run the reef lines.
After the mast is stepped attach the boom at the gooseneck and attach the mainsheet
block and vang blocks to the boom and mast attachment points.
Lifelines/Stanchions: Insert stanchions tubes into the bases and tighten the Phillips
head screws. To prevent the screws from vibrating loose during trailering or heavy air
sailing, dip the screw ends in silicone or spray them with blue Loctite before tightening.
To connect lifelines: attach the fork fitting to the eye on the bow pulpit (with pin inserted
outboard to prevent jib from catching on ring ding), then unscrew the stainless loop at
the opposite end of the lifeline, and reeve the stud aft through the stanchion tops. Then
reattach the stainless loop and secure to the stern pulpit with the rope lanyard provided.
Tiller Extension: The J/80 is provided with a tiller extension. This extension is included
in the rigging box with the boat and requires installation by the dealer or owner. Follow
the directions included with the extension and locate to suit. We recommend locating
this at least 4” behind the forward end of the tiller to ensure space to directly control the
tiller with your hand.
Rigging the Bow Sprit: Lead the tail of the pole control line through the inboard hole at
the back end of the sprit and tie a stopper knot. Then run the line through the Harken
single block on the forepeak bulkhead and lead it aft through the plastic eyes on the
overhead to the cleat at the back of the cabin trunk. IMPORTANT: Tie a stopper knot
aft of the cleat to prevent the back end of the pole from hitting the main bulkhead when
the line is released.
Roller Furler: Your J/80 is equipped with a Harken Roller Furler attached to a dyform
wire rigging headstay. The furler line leads aft from the furler through a centerline bow
eye then aft to port, cleating at the side of the cabin in the cockpit. After attaching the jib
head and tack to the furler shackles, be sure to tape the shackles.
Tuning the Rig
Your sailmaker will have specific rig tension recommended for different conditions.
We'll stick with the basics to obtaining a well-tuned J/80.
Before Stepping the Mast:
•Measure the headstay length- this should be approx. 32'11" from pin to pin.
Consult your sailmaker for the recommended length for your sails.
•Install an optional Windex to top of mast - We suggest setting each Windex tab to
30 degrees off center.
•Tape spreader ends and all exposed pins
•Run a short piece of line between the upper shroud (about 6” above the bottom
spreader) and the intermediate shroud. Then tape off. This helps prevent the
spinnaker from catching in the triangle formed by the spreader and the two shrouds.
•Add the mast boot

J/80 Owner Guide 9
Copyright © J/Boats, Inc., 2007
•Set mast step to middle position, and then tighten the aft two step bolts.
After Stepping the Mast:
•Center the mast: Establish reference points on the toe-rail abeam of the mast, by
measuring aft from the bow equidistant to both rails. Then hoist a metal tape
measure up the main halyard. Measure from rail to rail and adjust the upper
shrouds until the top of the mast is centered. The lowers and intermediates should
be slack.
•Tighten the uppers two turns per side until you reach a shroud tension of approx.
800 lb. as measured by a LOOS gauge. Then hand tighten the lowers so that the
mast is straight side to side while sitting up the mast track.
•Once straight, tighten the lowers two turns per side up to 600 lb.
•Finally, hand tighten the intermediates rechecking for straight alignment, and then
tighten to 300 lb.
•Tighten the backstay turnbuckles so that with the backstay line released, the
backstay bridle rests approximately 12 inches below the intersection with the upper
backstay.
New wire rigging will tend to stretch a little. Be prepared to go through this same tuning
procedure after your first day of sailing in a good breeze and check it periodically.
The J/80 comes equipped with BSI open body turnbuckles. Rather then pinning the
turnbuckles to prevent unwinding, simply take a short piece of messenger line and run it
through the bodies of the three turnbuckles on each side and tie a square knot. The
turnbuckles won't unwind, yet they're easy to get to for future rig adjustments. For the
backstay turnbuckles, tie a messenger line through the turnbuckle and around the stern
rail.
Sailing Tips
Cross-Sheeting the Jib- In most cases you will want to trim the jib sheet to the
leeward winch, there are times when “cross-sheeting” can be very fast. Cross sheeting
means trimming the jib sheet across the cockpit to the windward winch. This is
especially helpful in high wind and wave conditions when you want all the weight on the
rail AND the ability to constantly adjust the jib sheet. To cross sheet most effectively,
you have two options. 1) On the standard J/80, you can install a Wichard folding pad-
eye just forward and outboard of the primary winch and then shackle a Harken ratchet
block to it. 2) If your boat is equipped with the optional genoa tracks (for PHRF sailing),
simply run the jib sheet through a block on the genoa track and sheet across the
cockpit.
Spinnaker Handling- The J/80 is equipped with a foredeck hatch which is wonderful
for ventilation and spinnaker handling while daysailing, but most J/80 racers deploy the
spinnaker out of the main companionway. For this reason, it is very important to tape
up anything that can potentially rip the spinnaker. This includes the boomvang/boom
intersect, the shroud bases and any visible ring dings or pins. Some sailors have
rigged spinnaker bags that clip just inside the companionway opening, to help prevent
the spinnaker from tangling with loose gear below.

J/80 Owner Guide 10
Copyright © J/Boats, Inc., 2007
Hooking up the Spinnaker- Always remember to tape the halyard shackle after
attaching. It can otherwise catch on the rigging while being hoisted and potentially
open at an inopportune time. When hooking up the spinnaker for the first time, start by
attaching the spinnaker sheets to the clew of the sail. Assuming that you want to set the
spinnaker on starboard tack, hook each sheets up to sail on the port side with the lazy
sheet (starboard) outside the shrouds and out and around the headstay. Then take the
tack line from the bowsprit, run it over the dip in the bow rail (to port of the headstay),
and aft to the spinnaker tack, making sure the tack line stays on top of the lazy
spinnaker sheet. You’ll see the benefit of this later when the spinnaker is flying. With
the tack line always rigged on top of the lazy sheet, the spinnaker is automatically
rigged for “inside” jibing. This is when the clew of the spinnaker (during a jibe) passes
in front of the headstay but aft of the spinnaker luff. An “outside jibe” (when the
spinnaker clew goes all the way in front of the spinnaker luff) is only effective in high
wind (20+ knot) conditions.
Spare Parts- It’s always prudent to carry spares. The following is a recommended list
of items to keep on board:
•Clevis pins for the lifelines, shrouds
•Spare shackles for the roller furler
•Assorted shackles
•Winch grease and pawl kit
•Spare Tiller extension
•Extra spinnaker sheet (this can then be used as a spare for anything)
•One extra jib block assembly
•Small tackle box to keep all the small parts above.
Class Required Equipment- The J/80 class requires certain safety equipment to be
carried aboard for class racing. For the most part, these correspond to most boating
safety regulations. Because regulations vary from area to area, the owner should
check local regs in outfitting their boat.
•One anchor and chain exceeding 6.0kg with 40m of polyamide rode with minimum
diameter of 9mm.
•One manual bilge pump
•One compass, applicable charts, and either (a) speed and depth measuring
devices or (b) operational GPS.
•Operable navigation lights, a 12 volt battery (8kg min, 25kg max)
•One horseshoe type throwable life ring.
•Marine first aid kit and manual.
•One operational VHF radio.
•One bucket of not less than 9 liter capacity
•Personal flotation vests shall be carried for each crewmember on board.

J/80 Owner Guide 11
Copyright © J/Boats, Inc., 2007
•Engine: Minimum nominal power of 2 kilowatts (3hp) minimum weight 12.5kg
(empty of fuel). When not in use, engine and any removable outboard bracket shall
be stowed aft of forward wall of cockpit.

J/80 Owner Guide 12
Copyright © J/Boats, Inc., 2007
J/80 Polar Diagram
True Wind
Speeds (kts.)
180 165
10
16
20
14
12
6
8
Status: One Design Configuration
Boat: J/80
Boat Speed
4
(kts.) 6
True Wind 8
105
150
135
120
60
30
45
Angle (deg.)
True Wind
90
75

J/80 Owner Guide 13
Copyright © J/Boats, Inc., 2007
J/80 Construction
The J/80 is built by Pearson Composites, LLC. in Warren, Rhode Island. Pearson is
America's most qualified and advanced builder in fiberglass yacht construction.
Pearson’s extensive staff of craftsmen, engineers, production specialists and quality
inspectors ensure that each yacht is carefully built and thoroughly inspected. Pearson is
further distinguished by the development of the patented "SCRIMP" resin infusion
molding technique and a 10 year hull warranty against blistering.
Construction Materials
The techniques developed for constructing the J/80 are the most advanced in the
marine industry. Patented SCRIMP®molding technique insures the best quality
laminate for the hull and deck. The finely engineered laminate is tailored to suit
structural requirements without unnecessary duplication.
Pearson utilizes only the highest quality construction materials, which undergo constant
testing at their laboratory to ensure they meet stringent construction specifications
Gelcoat: The J/80 moldings use a neo pentyl glycol (NPG) isophthalic gelcoat. NPG
ISO gelcoats yield a dense frequently branched molecular network which inhibits
migration of water molecules. Because of the structure, these gelcoats offer superior
resistance to moisture penetration, blistering, and fading. The product is formulated to
"yield" more than other gelcoats and provides more "flexibility" to improve cracking
resistance. Testing also indicates that NPG ISO GELCOATS produce the highest gloss
and the best color retention under harsh exposure.
Glass Fabrics: Unidirectional, bi-axial, and tri-axial fibers are used throughout the J/80
hull and deck. This offers superior strength and stiffness to conventional cloth and
woven roving laminates. These unidirectional fibers are oriented in the laminate
structures along lines of stress for optimized hull/deck strength and stiffness.
Resins: Resins are chemically formulated to Pearson’s exacting specifications to
incorporate the best balance of properties based on extensive testing. For the hull, a
special vinylester resin is used as a barrier coat behind the gelcoat to prevent moisture
penetration. The combination of this vinylester resin with NPG ISO gelcoats and
properly specified glass fibers yields the most blister resistant hull in the industry. The
J/80 hull has a 10 year owner transferable warranty against blistering.
Hull/Deck Sandwich Construction Pearson utilizes Baltek balsa-cored fiberglass
construction in the J/80 hull and deck to produce a lighter, stronger and faster yacht.
Cored fiberglass is superior to single skin fiberglass construction because, for the same
strength, a balsa cored structure can be as much as 60 percent lighter. Of all synthetic
foam and natural core material available, end grain balsa is the toughest against
fatigue, and rates highest in sheer strength as well as impact and puncture resistance.

J/80 Owner Guide 14
Copyright © J/Boats, Inc., 2007
Production Control
Structure:At the center of the J/80 structural design is the main bulkhead. This anchors
the shroud chainplates and attaches directly to the mast bearing beam and keel support
grid. The construction of this bulkhead is similar to the hull, except that the bulkhead is
solid fiberglass in areas where the chainplates are attached. All structural keel frames
are infused simultaneously with the hull. Bulkheads are bonded to the hull using non-
woven biaxial glass fabrics and high strength adhesives. This provides a strong bond
between the hull, deck, and bulkheads, keeping the yacht "quieter" over time.
ABS Approved Hull/Deck Joint: The extremely strong and watertight hull-to-deck joint
is created by chemically bonding the hull/deck flange overlap with 3M 5200 and
methacrylate adhesive. This yields a bond that is proven superior in strength to a
conventional bolted joint with 3M 5200, with less opportunity for leaks, and less weight
on deck. Essential hardware elements along the deck edge are bolted through this joint
and sealed with Sikaflex bedding compound. Each flange (hull & deck) is supported
with extra glass laminates and designed to withstand high local area stresses from
stanchions, rails, & blocks.
Keel:The J/80 keel is 1,400 lbs, draws 4.9' feet and is manufactured to designer
specified templates and molds. The keel is made of cast lead reinforced with 4%
antimony with high-strength stainless bolts cast into the lead. The molded keel stub
area of the J/80 hull uses multi-layered fiberglass laminates to withstand the high local
loads induced by the keel. Heavy duty fiberglass keel stringers are infused into the stub
in the hull molding process. The lead keel is seated in epoxy and thru-bolted to the stub
and then spray coated with a minimum of four coats of specially formulated epoxy
primer.
Hardware: The J/80 deck is designed to allow simple short-handed operation cockpit.
The power ratio, safe working load, and breaking strength of each piece of hardware
are carefully reviewed in the design process to ensure efficiency, durability, and light
weight. Only the highest quality hardware manufacturers are chosen for each
application. The fastenings are specified for longevity and ease of maintenance. All
deck hardware is bedded with Sikaflex bedding compound with additional laminate
reinforcements incorporated where necessary to ensure reliable fastening. Stanchions,
chainplates and other above deck stainless fittings are custom made and specified by
Pearson engineers.
Spars and Rigging: J/80 spars and rigging are designed for efficiency and performance
by Sparcraft. The standard double spreader aluminum mast and boom are anodized.
Standing rigging is stainless wire with BSI turnbuckles. The running rigging package is
specified to minimize weight and maintain durability.

J/80 Owner Guide 15
Copyright © J/Boats, Inc., 2007
Safety
Lightning Protection
The J/80 is grounded in accordance with industry practice. The mast, shroud
chainplates, stemhead fitting, backstay fitting and pulpits are grounded to the keel. In
spite of this grounding, there can be no assurance that personnel or the boat will not
suffer injury if the boat is hit by lightning. The following are suggestions only and in no
way guarantee safety in the event of a lightning strike.
•If possible, remain inside a closed boat during a lightning storm. Do not contact any
metallic objects inside or outside the boat.
•Avoid contact with any items connected to the lightning conductive system (mast,
shrouds, etc) and especially in a manner to act as a bridge between them (mast to
shroud, etc).
•Avoid swimming during a lightning storm.
•If the boat is mildly struck by lightning, check all compasses and electrical gear to
determine that no damage or change in calibration has taken place.
Safety Equipment
You can never be prepared enough for emergencies which may arise at sea. Please
contact your local U.S. Coast Guard office for up to date USCG safety requirements.
IT IS THE OWNER’S RESPONSIBILITY TO COMPLY WITH ALL FEDERAL AND
STATE REGULATIONS WITH RESPECT TO SAFETY EQUIPMENT; OPERATION
OF THEIR VESSEL; AND SAFETY OF ALL PASSENGERS

J/80 Owner Guide 16
Copyright © J/Boats, Inc., 2007
Maintenance Tips
Even though modern construction has helped reduce upkeep, regular attention should
be given to the maintenance of your boat. This includes the fiberglass exterior and
interior surfaces, and the hardware and rigging..
A well maintained boat will not only bring you years of enjoyment, but most importantly,
will bring you greater personal pride and joy.
Fiberglass/Gelcoat
Apply a marine wax at least twice annually to preserve the “factory fresh” appearance
for many years. Be sure fiberglass surfaces are clean and free of salt before waxing.
Abrasive cleansers should never be used for general cleaning as they can severely mar
the shiny gelcoat finish. On areas difficult to wax, like nonskid, a coating such as
“Armor All” will restore its original luster.
Bottom Paint
Keeping your bottom clean is of paramount importance as it not only keeps off bottom
growth, but maintains passage-making speed. Even though you may have applied
anti-fouling paint, take a swim every two weeks to scrub the bottom with a sponge pad.
Deck Hardware/Running Rigging
Wash deck hardware frequently with fresh water to remove accumulated salt and
grime. Wash down the jib sheets, spinnaker sheets, and other lines in fresh water.
Check for chafe and turn sheets end-for-end once a year to more equally distribute
wear.
Check the blocks and also wash them with fresh water. Most ball-bearing blocks need
only hot water to cleanse them, then spray with a dry teflon lubricant. On conventional
sheave/pin blocks, wash off, disassemble, clean, rub a light waterproof lubricant on the
center pin, then reassemble.
Furthermore, check and lubricate the sheaves and blocks on the mast. Also, ensure the
turnbuckles are clean and well lubricated. Without proper care they can “freeze up” and
not turn.
In general, it is handy to keep a spray can of a light lubricant, such as TRIFLON, in your
tool kit for frequent squirts of blocks, shackles, mainsheet travelers, and other moving
fittings.
Winches
Read the manufacturer’s manuals on winch repair and maintenance. Winches are fine
pieces of machinery which take little effort to maintain. However, all too frequently, they
suffer neglect because no one can see how much they wear down or get dirty.

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Copyright © J/Boats, Inc., 2007
Clean And Lubricate Them! It takes little time to disassemble and put back together.
Note that the gears and bearings are lubricated with special winch grease and pawls.
Pawl springs need only a light oil. Keep spare pawls and springs in a kit for
replacement.
Deck Hatches
Hatches need lubrication of their hinges with a silicone grease once a year. Also check
the seals to see they are not unduly cracked, or are losing their ability to seal correctly.
To increase traction on the plastic hatch covers, apply a non-skid tape fore and aft.
Cabin Ports
The ports are made of acrylic and are highly impact resistant. However, avoid highly
abrasive cleansers which can scratch them. Instead, use mild soap and water to clean
ports. Avoid chemical solvents, notably acetone, which can “melt” the ports...ie. smear
its smooth finish.
Stainless
Hardware like stanchions, bow/stern pulpits, chainplates can be treated with Never-
dull®or other light abrasive cleansers, even toothpaste works well. After applying
cleanser, polish to a gleam with a clean cotton rag.
Fiberglass/Gelcoat/Formica
Interior gelcoat surfaces should be cleaned periodically with non-abrasive cleansers
and smooth areas should be waxed. Formica should be cleaned with non-abrasive
cleaners.
Bilges
Bilges are painted with airdry gelcoat to prevent water permeation and accumulation of
mildew. They should be washed regularly with strong solvents to keep them smelling
clean and to prevent the fouling of bilge pumps.

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Copyright © J/Boats, Inc., 2007
Annual Maintenance Checklist
Running Rigging
___ Check running rigging lines for wear at splice, turning blocks, etc.
___ Inspect blocks and shackles for wear. Clean and lubricate or replace as necessary.
___Service winches, check for free spinning operation & ratchet stop action (pawls).
Deck Hardware
___ Check lifeline integrity, stanchion, and rail attachment to deck.
___ Check all cleats for signs of fatigue. Tighten fasteners or replace as required.
Steering System
___ Lubricate Rudder pins.
___ Check tiller extension joint for wear.
Electrical
___ Check battery charge, terminal connections.
___ Check running light operation.
___ Check ground wire attachment to keel.
Mechanical Systems
___ Remove your outboard and store at home
Keel
___ Check keel bolt nuts for tightness*
*Do not arbitrarily tighten bolts unless you’ve experienced a severe grounding. If there
is concern for leakage, consult your dealer or professional yard.

J/80 Owner Guide 19
Copyright © J/Boats, Inc., 2007
Storage Tips
Many of the maintenance problems surrounding boats can be pinpointed during the
end-of-season haul-out. This is the time when a careful inspection will reveal the
ravages of a long summer. If you live in colder climates, it is also the time to prepare
the boat for what might be an even more brutal winter ashore.
First, clean your boat as thoroughly as possible. Get the yard to use a high-powered
hose to clean off most of the growth before it dries onto the bottom paint.
Rigging- Sails and lines should be removed at the end of each season, rinsed
thoroughly in fresh water and stored in a warm, dry place. This will prolong their useful
life as mildew can affect even today’s synthetic materials.
Engine- Check the engine owner’s manual for maintenance guidance during the
season and for the specific winterizing tips
Battery- It is preferable to remove the battery and store in a heated area, recharging
periodically to maintain full charge status. If you are in warmer climates, it is possible to
leave the battery aboard. Simply check it once a month to ensure it remains charged.
Bilges- Pump bilges completely dry and use a strong cleaning solvent to eliminate
odors and bacteria.
Electronics- Remove as many as possible to avoid condensation caused by the
extreme rise and fall of temperature and humidity that come with winter.
Interior & Ventilation- Clean the cabin thoroughly with a damp rag, for any salt left
behind will breed mildew. Any paper items- books, notepads- should be taken off so
they don’t mildew and rot. If a winter cover is used, it is good to leave the hatches
cracked open to enhance air circulation. This helps prevent mildew. Also, remove boat
cushions and store indoors.
Exterior- If storing outdoors, a winter cover is recommended. It can be a simple piece
of canvas forming a tent over the entire boat or heat-shrunk plastic. In either case, a
tent-like support structure is necessary to prevent pools of water and to assure proper
air circulation. Ensure the entire deck is covered to prevent uneven discoloration of the
gelcoat.
Cradle- It is critical the boat is adequately supported. The keel must rest solidly on the
main beam and the vertical risers merely stabilize the boat. If it appears the boat is
supported too much by the vertical risers, correct the problem as it could structurally
damage the hull.
Mast Storage- Store masts on well padded supports and do not place any weights on
them. Avoid tape on the mast surface as it leaves a difficult to remove residue. Wash
all surfaces, sheaves, standing rigging with fresh water. If possible, remove all standing
rigging, halyards and mast instruments and store indoors.

J/80 Owner Guide 20
Copyright © J/Boats, Inc., 2007
8:1 Boom Vang System
•Nicopressed wires, short length attaches to lower hole on mast bracket,
long length to upper hole.
•Wire Block, attaches to boom vang bale.
•Harken #2621 Carbo Fiddle Block, “floating” mount on end of long wire.
•Harken #060 Little Fiddle w/Hexaratchet and Cam cleat, “floating” mount
on the end of short wire.
•(2) Stainless Steel Shackles, to attach wires.