Johnny's Selected Seeds Quick Hoops 7300 User manual

www.johnnyseeds.com17300.999Rev2.2‐3/23/15‐AL
955 Benton Ave., Winslow, ME 04901 Phone: [phone] Fax: [phone]
Email: [e-mail] Web Site: Johnnyseeds.com
Overview:
High tunnels with a Gothic peak have long been the gold standard for shedding snow in Northern climates.
This is why Johnny’s has developed the Quick Hoops™ Gothic High Tunnel Bender. In addition to shedding
snow, the Gothic-style peak allows for a wider tunnel; 14’ to be exact. Within the tunnel, four 30” beds can be
prepared for growing. For those who grow in the winter, one Quick Hoops™ 6’ wide Low Tunnel will fit over two
of these beds for another layer of protection. Even further, the addition of the peak sections gives the tunnel
more height, allowing more room for trellised crops. This added height also slows down the heat lost during
cool nights, preventing drastic temperature fluctuations. Finally, the taller tunnel allows small tractors and other
farm equipment to fit into the tunnel with ease.
This manual has two main parts: It will illustrate how to pre-fabricate
your bows as well as show you how to build an entire tunnel such as the
one above, but at any length you desire. We will also give you some
creative options for end-walls and how to create roll-up sides for efficient
venting.
1-3/8” top rail for chain link fence is available in 10 ft. sections. 2-1/2
pieces are joined to create 14 ft. wide peaked hoops with this bender. A
10 ft. piece of 3/4" EMT conduit is also used to provide the main source
of strength for these bows.
August,2014GothicTunneltrialat
Johnny'sResearchFarm,Albion,ME
Instruction Manual for 7300
Quick Hoops™ Gothic High Tunnel Bender
Copyright © 2014 Johnny’s Selected Seeds. All rights reserved.
1‐3/8”Chain‐LinkTopRail

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Construction Options:
We provide instructions on two main methods to build your tunnel:
Eliot Coleman is credited for the conception of this hoop design as he incorporated it into the plans for his
modular moveable 'Cathedral' tunnel. His design criteria included requirements that the structure needed to
span four 30" beds, could shed snow easily, and could be moved in any direction. In the Fall of 2013, the
modular Cathedral tunnel was born. It was comprised of three 14' x 16' tunnel modules (the frame of one
module is shown above left) that are connected with a 1' space between to create a 50' structure. His idea was
that home gardeners could also build a single module for backyard use.
Johnny's has developed instructions using Eliot's hoop design, which we adapted to create traditional, fixed
high tunnels. This includes the use of more traditional elements, such as driven ground posts, framed end-
walls, hipboards, footboards, and roll-up side vents. This allows you to create a very solid, fixed structure with
a relatively small investment.
Eliot's original plans called for creating the side-hoops of the bows with the 9018 Quick Hoops™ High Tunnel
Bender and illustrated creating a jig to bend the 5 ft. peak section. Since then, Johnny's has developed the
7300 Quick Hoops™ Gothic High Tunnel Bender, which simplifies the process by including the 9018 Bender
plus a special jig for the peak sections. If you already own a 9018 Bender, you can choose to buy just the
7300.100 Peak Jig instead of the complete 7300 High Tunnel Bender. Both the 7300 and the 7300.100 will
include both sets of instructions so you can build either of these types of tunnels.
If you would like to build the Modular, Moveable 'Cathedral' tunnel, please refer to the other set of instructions.
The remainder of this set of instructions is written for the Traditional, Fixed 'Gothic' style tunnel.
14'x200'GothicTunnelatJohnny'sResearchFarm,Albion,ME
Modular, Moveable 'Cathedral' Tunnel Traditional, Fixed 'Gothic' Tunnel

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Materials:
This Excel spreadsheet calculator
has been developed to allow you
to custom design a tunnel to meet
your own operational and financial
needs. It may be downloaded from
the product page for the 7300
Quick Hoops™ Gothic High
Tunnel Bender or from the
Growers Library on our website.
For your convenience, all part
numbers listed on it link to product
pages of their own on our website
as well as other sources' websites.
Simply input the values in the
different option boxes on the upper
left and the spreadsheet will
automatically tell you the following:
How many of each component
you will need,
Suggest where you may
purchase them,
Give you a square footage
calculation,
Estimated total cost calculation,
And cost per square foot.
It will allow you to quickly see cost
estimates for different tunnel
options and allow you to quickly
determine which ones meet your
needs and your budget.

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Contents for Part# 7300:
Curved bender and long lever bar (for “finishing”
the bend) *
Peak Jig and (2) short lever bars
Hardware for mounting to wood surfaces: (4)
1/4" x 5" lag screws, (4) 1/4" x 6" carriage bolts,
(4) 1/4" nuts, and (4) fender washers*
Detailed instructions for both types of tunnels -
Modular, Moveable 'Cathedral' tunnel and the
Traditional, Fixed 'Gothic' style tunnel
*Note: If you already have Johnny's 9018 High Tunnel Bender and have purchased part# 7300.100, everything
above will be included except the curved bender long lever bar and exactly half of the mounting hardware.
Mounting the Peak Jig:
Both the curved bender and the Peak Jig may be mounted to any solid surface, such as a workbench, a picnic
table, hay wagon, etc. They may be lag-screwed or thru-bolted into place. 5/16” mounting holes are provided
on them and the screws, bolts, etc. to mount them are also included. By securing the bender and jig fixed
positions, and pulling the tubing around them the operators can maintain precise control of the tubing being
bent.
The curved bender, wherever mounted, must have enough room to accommodate the infeed and outfeed of
pipe, as well as some type of support at the outfeed end about ¾” above the mounting surface. This will
prevent ‘corkscrewing’ and ensure that the hoophouse bows created are in a single plane and not warped
looking. This can best be accomplished with 3/4” plywood (shown above).
The Peak Jig should be mounted such that there are a couple inches between the pipe being bent and the
edge of the mounting surface.
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Bending the Side Hoops:
1. After determining how many bows your high
tunnel will have, set aside twice that many
pipes to be bent.
2. Insert the swaged end of a pipe into the
holding strap at the end of the bender. Insert
just past the swage to prevent canting or
kinking that portion of the pipe.
3. With a smooth motion, pull back as if on a
long oar (do not push), and bend the pipe all
the way around the bender until the pipe just
touches the bender at the end closest to you.
Stop. Do not bend past the end, or the arc
you create will not be smooth.
4. Release tension until the pipe is loose in the
holding strap and move it through the holding
strap about half the length of the bender itself.
5. Repeat Steps 3. and 4. until about 3’ of
unbent pipe remains beyond the closest end
of the bender, or if bending becomes difficult.
6. Insert the lever bar into the female end of the
pipe. This effectively makes the pipe longer
and will instantly give you more leverage for
bending the rest of the pipe.
7. Continue, repeating Steps 3. and 4. until you
have bent all but 18” of the pipe. Keep this
end straight. Doing so allows the bow to more
easily fit into the ground posts.
8. Repeat Steps 2. through 7. for all other
unbent pipes, always inserting the swaged
end of the pipe into the bender holding strap
first, until all pipes for the side hoops are
bent.

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Creating the Peak Sections:
1. Prefabrication:
a. From the calculator, determine the number
of peak sections you will need for your
tunnel. Set aside half as many pieces of 10’
top-rail.
b. Cut two 5’ sections from each piece of top-
rail, excluding the swaged ends.
c. Pre-drill a 5/16” hole through the center of
each piece to be used as a peak section.
Only drill through one wall. This will prevent
the opposite side from cracking when it is
being bent.
d. De-burr any cut ends of the pipe as well as
pre-drilled holes using a hand file, die
grinder, or bench grinder. It may be
necessary to ream out drilled holes after
deburring by re-drilling.

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2. Bending:
a. Place the first 5’ section of top-rail on the
Quick Hoops™ Gothic High Tunnel Bender,
inserting the 1/4" bolt on the bender into the
pre-drilled hole in the center of the underside
of the peak section. This will both center it
and keep it from slipping.
b. With another person, insert a short lever bar
into each end of the section of top-rail.
c. Together, push down on the end of the lever
bars until each side of the peak section
reaches the cross-bar on the bender.
d. Repeat Steps 2.a. through 2.c. for the
remaining pieces of top-rail to create the rest
of the peak sections.
e. Compare peak sections after bending to
ensure they are of the same angle. Adjust as
necessary.

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Creating Collar Ties:
1. Collar Ties are made with
10 ft. lengths of ¾” EMT
electrical conduit. These will
be placed on every bow.
Insert ¾-1” of one end
inside a bench vise with the
mark positioned as shown.
Fully compress the vise.
Remove and repeat for the
opposite end. Ensure that
the flattened areas face the
same direction. The ends
may alternately be flattened
with a hammer.
2. With a 5/16” drill bit (cobalt bits work best), drill through the center of the flattened area on each
tie.
3. 'Dog ear' one side of the flattened area by sawing one corner off on each side. Hand file or bench grind
the edge to remove any burrs. It may be necessary to ream out the holes after deburring by re-drilling.
Creating Angle Braces:
1. Eight angle braces (four
for each end of the
tunnel) must be made
from four pieces of 1-
3/8" top rail. These
pieces should be about 4
ft. long (exact length is
not critical). Do this by
cutting the swaged end
off the top rail and then
cutting it in half.
2. As with the collar ties,
flatten the ends with a
large bench vise or
hammer; ensure that the
flats face the same
direction.
3. 'Dog ear' cut both
corners off each end.
See photo to right. Then,
pre-drill each end with a
5/16" drill bit.
4. De-burr any cut ends of
the pipe and pre-drilled
holes using a hand file,
die grinder, or bench
grinder. It may be
necessary to ream out
the holes after deburring
by re-drilling.

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Assembling the Bows:
1. Use two pieces of top-rail as part of the jig for
assembling the bows. On a flat area of
ground, arrange some small stakes to create
the jig around the top-rail as shown above.
2. Place one side hoop in the left side of the jig,
as shown.
3. Place on side hoop in the right side of the jig,
as shown.
4. Insert the swaged ends of the side hoops into
the peak section.
5. Ensure that both ends of the side hoops are
firmly seated between the stakes of the jig
and that the entire bow is lying more or less
flat.

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6. Secure the peak section to the hoops with
#10 x 3/4" hex self-drilling tek screws.
7. Slip a 1 3/8” brace band over the end of
each bow and slide them up toward the
peak section.
8. Secure the collar tie loosely to the brace
bands on the bow with 5/16”-18 x 1.25”
carriage bolts and 5/16” hex nuts. Place
the collar ties so that the dog-eared
portions of the flattened ends are facing
toward the peak.
9. Ensure that both ends of the bows are still
firmly seated in the jig.
10. Adjust the location of the brace bands so
that they are exactly the same distance
from the peak. Arrange four small stakes
around the collar tie as shown in the
diagram on page 8 to create a jig to make
assembly of all the rest of the bows easier.
Wait to tighten the hex nuts until step 8 on
page 23.
11. Start a pre-drilled hole on the side of each
brace band for self-drilling tek screws to go
into in step 8. Leave brace bands and
carriage bolts loose for now.
12. Using the existing hole in the corner of the
peak section as a guide, drill through the
peak fully with a 5/16" drill bit.
13. Flip the bow over and secure this side of
the peak section to the hoops with self-
drilling tek screws. Start a pre-drilled hole
on the side of each brace band on this side
as well.

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Creating ground posts from fence posts:
Ground posts are made from 1-5/8” chain link fence "line post" material, which is commonly available in 8 ft.
lengths. 8 ft. fence posts may be cut in half to produce 4 ft. ground posts (with 2 ft. in the ground and 2 ft.
exposed), which results in a 9-½ ft. high tunnel.
Procedure:
1. Determine the length and bow spacing you would like your
tunnel to have and plug those values into our spreadsheet
calculator. The calculator will tell you how many pieces and
what size of line post to buy.
2. Cut them all in half with a band saw, reciprocating saw, metal
chop saw, or hack saw (if you're not doing too many) to
create two vertical ground posts from each line post.
3. Pre-drill each per the diagram. Drill all the way through both
sides. De-burr the cut end and the pre-drilled holes of each
ground post to remove any sharp edges.
4. Make a mark 24” in from the bottom end as a guide for
insertion into the ground.

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Hints on setting the corner ground posts:
Use the following diagrams to help you set the corner posts in a perfect rectangle.
 

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   

  



   
AB
A>B
Tunnelis
crooked.

AB
A=B
Tunnelis
squaredoff.
3.Measureoutfrom
C2thedesired
tunnellength.
12ft.
4.Laythenotchedend
ofthegaugeatthat
measurements
p
ot.
1.Setthefirst
cornerpostC1.
2.Usingthegauge,setthe
secondcornerpostC2.
7.TakemeasurementsAandBabove.
8.Adjustthegaugetotheright
orleftuntilAandBareequal.9.SetcornerpostsC3andC4.
C1C2
C4C3
C1C2C1C2
Starthere.
5.Measureoutfrom
C1thedesired
tunnellength.
6.Adjusttheun‐notched
endofthegaugetothat
measurements
p
ot.
Tunnelforms
aperfect
rectangle.
C1C2

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Site preparation and setting the ground posts:
1. Prepare the footprint of the tunnel as if you would open soil in a field.
2. Create a gauge for setting posts by using one 5/4" x 6” x 14’ piece of wood, and simply cutting a small
notch in one end. This will be the gauge between ground posts for a single bow. You can also simply
use a tape measure in lieu of a gauge.
3. Weed Barrier - An option to consider at this point is weed barrier along the edges of the tunnel. This is
traditionally an area where weed control is difficult and some fabric that suppresses weeds can be very
effective here. If you choose this option, proceed to step 5.
4. If you choose to forgo weed barrier, proceed as follows: Set the four corner ground posts first
as follows:
a. Place the first corner post (#1 pictured above) in the desired location with the pre-drilled hole closest
to the top. Insert the mushroom-shaped ground post driver in the top and drive it in about 2 ft. with a
sledge-hammer until the mark is at the soil surface.
b. Place the notched end of the 14 ft. gauge you made in Step 2 against post 1. Swing the opposite end
the gauge to where you would like post 2 to be. Holding the new ground post against the un-notched
end, drive it in place.
c. Using a long tape, measure to where the opposite end of the tunnel will be. Mark approximately
where you expect to put post 3.
d. Lay the notched end of the gauge down at that spot. Lay the opposite end where your think post 4
will be. Measure from post 1 to the notch in the 14 ft gauge. Then measure from post 2 to the un-
notched end of the gauge. These measurements should be the same for the tunnel to be square and
true. Adjust the gauge until they are.
e. Set corner posts 3 and 4.
f. Run the long tape from corner post 1 to corner post 4. Secure one end to post 1. Pull it tight and
secure the other end to post 4. Secure with duct tape, clamps, or something similar. This will serve
as a gauge as well as a straight line for setting the other posts.
1
2
34

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g. Using the long tape measure as a guide, set the rest of the posts for this side of the tunnel.
h. Repeat steps 4.f. and g. for the other side of the tunnel.
i. Inspect the orientation of ground posts and adjust as necessary: Pre-drilled bolt holes (near the
ground) should be facing outward from the tunnel to minimize adjustment later on. Bolt holes for the
bolts that hold the bows in place (near the top of the ground posts) should be in line with the length of
the tunnel. By hand or (if necessary) with a pipe wrench or similar tool, rotate any ground posts as
needed so that they are correctly oriented.
j. The ground posts are now set and ready for bows.
JSS#9482
GroundPostDriver

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5. If you do choose to use weed
barrier, proceed as follows:
a. Perform steps 4.a. through e. to set
and square the four corner posts.
b. If you have a pair of D-handle
garden forks or spades, you can
quickly set up your weed barrier on
a makeshift spool such as this. This
makes handling and cutting to
length very easy. A piece of top-rail
is used as the spindle. Position at
one end of the tunnel location and
offset, so that it faces down the side
of what will eventually be the
tunnel. Pull a few inches of the
weed barrier off the roll, and with a
utility knife, cut it down the center
so that you have started two 2 ft.
wide strips. Have one person hold
the utility knife near the roll with the
blade through the fabric, while one
or two others pull the fabric off the
roll and walk with it down the side
of the plot until you reach the
opposite end. Cut it to length,
leaving about 1 ft. of overlap on
each end. A yellow centerline mark
should be conveniently placed at or
near the centerline of each of the
two 2 ft wide strips. Position each
14 ft. apart on center and parallel.
c. Make a 2" cut centered between
the sides of the fabric that is about
1 ft. in from one cut end. Make just
a single cut in line with the length of the fabric. Slip this end of the fabric over the
end post near it.
With only a single slit, the fabric will be somewhat snug against the post,
which helps prevent weeds from growing up through the hole.
9739 Weed Barrier. 4' x 50'
9724 Weed Barrier. 4' x 250'
A note about weed barrier - Keep the top of the weed barrier fabric free of soil as best you
can. If soil is allowed to collect on it, weeds will likely germinate in that soil and root
through the weed barrier, which will make them difficult to kill and remove by physical
means.
d. Go to the opposite end of the fabric, pull it straight and somewhat taught, and
make a similar cut that is even with the corner ground post at that end. Slip it over
the ground post and smooth out the weed barrier along the length of the tunnel.
e. Secure the edges of the weed barrier to the ground with fabric staples along its
edges. A hammer is sometimes helpful in difficult soils.
9723 Fabric Staples. Box of 500.
f. Repeat steps 5.b through f. for the opposite side of the tunnel.

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g. Run a long tape measure down the center of one of the
pieces of weed barrier fabric and secure to the corner
posts with clamps, etc.
h. Make 2" slits with a razor knife for the rest of the ground
posts on that side of the tunnel. For example, make a cut
every 4 ft. if your tunnel will have 4 ft. bow spacing.
i. Drive ground posts in each of the slits.
j. Repeat 5.h. and i. for the opposite side of the tunnel until
all the ground posts are set.
k. Perform step 4.i. to align the ground posts.

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Framing the Tunnel:
1. Bows: make a mark on each of the bows
about 6” from the end. This will be used as a
guide for insertion into the ground posts.
a. Clamp large vise grips or spring clamps
onto each side of the bow just above the
marks to keep it from slipping into the
ground posts.
b. Transport the first “end wall” bow to the
furthest corner posts and insert to the
marks made in step 1. above.
c. Using the upper pre-drilled holes in the
ground posts as a guide, with a 5/16" drill
bit, drill through the inserted portion of each
side of the bow. These should be aligned
such that they are in line with the length of
the tunnel.
d. Secure the bow to the ground post with
5/16"-18 x 2" hex bolts and 5/16" hex nuts.
e. Repeat steps 1.a. through 1.d. for the rest
of the bows.

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2. Ridge Pole: pre-drill a 5/16" hole through
the non-swaged end of a piece of 1-3/8" top
rail for chain link fence at about 9/16" from
the end. Drill through both walls. This will
serve as the first piece of ridge pole. Note:
if you intend to install scissor doors on this
end of the tunnel, you will need about 4" of
ridge pole protruding over the end of the
tunnel; in that case, drill the hole 4-9/16"
from the end of the top-rail.
a. Raise the top-rail up to one of the end
wall bows of the tunnel and place the
hole directly over the hole in the center
of the peak connector. The rest of the
ridge pole should be roughly aligned with
the peak of the next bow and temporarily
held or clamped in place. With a 5/16"
drill bit, ream through both the peak
connector and the ridge pole so that they
can easily accept a through bolt.
b. Fasten the end of the ridge pole to the
end wall bow with a 5/16"-18 x 3"
carriage bolt inserted from the top and
secured at the bottom with a flat washer
and 5/16" hex nut.
c. Attach the end of a long tape measure to
the end of the ridge pole with a clamp or
tape and run the tape to the opposite
end of the tunnel.
d. Adjust the position of the peak of the
next bow so that it is 4 ft. from the
previous bow. Using the hole in the peak
connector as a guide, drill up through
both walls of the ridge pole. You may
find it easier to drill down from the top;
that works fine, but remember to ream
through the ridge pole and the peak
connector after so that a bolt may be
easily inserted through both the ridge
pole and peak connector. As before,
secure the ridge pole to the bow with a
5/16"-18 x 3" carriage bolt, flat washer,
and 5/16" hex nut.
e. Slide the non-swaged end of another
piece of top-rail over the swaged end of
the ridge pole. Secure together from
beneath with a #10 x 3/4" hex-head self-
drilling tek screw.
f. Repeat step 2.d. for the third bow (only).

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3. Angle Ties: at this point, angle ties must be
installed so that all successive bows are vertical
and plumb. Slip a 1-3/8" brace band over one of
the side hoops of one of the end wall bows, two
1-3/8" brace bands over the next bow, and one 1-
5/8" brace band over the third ground post.
a. Position the 1-5/8" brace band on the third
hoop's ground post at ground level, with its
tabs pointing toward the closest end of the
tunnel, compress them with a pair of needle
nose Vise Grips. Loosely secure one end of
an angle tie to the brace band with a 5/16"-18
x 1.25" carriage bolt and 5/16" nut. Remove
the Vise Grips.
b. Raise the opposite end of the angle tie up and
rest it against the next bow. Slide both 1-3/8"
brace bands up the second bow's side hoop
until the lower brace band is aligned to receive
the end of the angle tie. Clamp in place with
the Vise Grips. Loosely secure with a 5/16"-18
x 1.25" carriage bolt and 5/16" nut. Remove
the Vise Grips.
c. Position the second brace band on the second
bow so that it is resting on the previously
attached brace band and pointing toward the
closest end of the tunnel. Clamp with the Vise
Grips and loosely secure with a 5/16"-18 x
1.25" carriage bolt and 5/16" nut. Remove the
Vise Grips.
d. Raise the opposite end of the angle tie up and
rest it against the end wall bow. Slide the 1-
3/8" brace band up the end wall side hoop until
the brace band is aligned to receive the end of
the angle tie. Clamp in place with the Vise
Grips. Loosely secure with a 5/16"-18 x 1.25"
carriage bolt and 5/16" nut. Remove the Vise
Grips.
e. Using a plumb bob or long level, adjust the
end wall bow so that it is plumb (vertically
level). All three bows should move together.
While holding the end wall in that position,
quickly tighten all the nuts on the angle ties'
brace bands.
f. Repeat steps 3.a. through 3.e. for the
opposite side of the tunnel.
g. Secure all brace bands installed in steps 14.
through 20. from inside the tunnel with #10 x
3/4" hex self-drilling tek screws by screwing
through the side of the brace band and into
the bow or ground post. This will prevent any
slippage later on.

www.johnnyseeds.com207300.999Rev2.2‐3/23/15‐AL
4. Ridge Pole (continued): continue
adding sections of ridge pole and
securing to the peak connector of
each bow every four feet as before
until you reach the end of the tunnel
and have a section of ridge pole
protruding out over the opposite end
wall.
a. Cut the ridge pole off flush with the
outside of the end of the opposite
end wall bow. Note: if you intend to
install scissor doors on this end of
the tunnel, you will need about 4"
of ridge pole protruding over the
end of the tunnel; in that case, cut
the ridge pole off 4" from the
outside end of the end wall bow.
b. Now install a set of angle ties on
this end of the tunnel the same
way you did in steps 3.a. through
3.g..
c. Even after the ridge pole is in place
you may still note some
unnevenness in the bows, made
more clear now by a 'snaking' ridge
pole. This may never be perfect,
but can be compensated
somewhat by the installation of
hipboards. For that reason, we will
again put off securing the collar ties
until the hipboards have been
installed.