KegLand Beginner's Home Brew Starter Kit User manual
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Contents
KegLand Beginner’s Home Brew Kit..............................................................................................1
What’s in the box.........................................................................................................................4
The ‘3 golden rules of brewing’.....................................................................................................5
Step-by-step home brewing .........................................................................................................6
1. Assembling the fermenter: .........................................................................................................6
2. Cleaning the fermenter:..............................................................................................................6
3. Sanitising your equipment and fermenter:.................................................................................7
4. Mixing up the wort: ....................................................................................................................7
5. The fermentation:.......................................................................................................................9
6. Bottling your finished brew: .......................................................................................................9
7. TRYING YOUR BEER!..................................................................................................................10
Open and enjoy! ...............................................................................................................................10
Troubleshooting ........................................................................................................................ 11
Common Problems: ..........................................................................................................................11
Common off-flavours:.......................................................................................................................11
Brewing Techniques Explained ................................................................................................... 12
Taking Hydrometer readings.........................................................................................................12
Cleaning and sanitation.................................................................................................................12
Temperature control.....................................................................................................................13
Getting the Best Possible Beer.................................................................................................... 13
Steeping grains..............................................................................................................................13
Mini hop boil.................................................................................................................................14
Dry hopping...................................................................................................................................15
Specialty brewing yeast ................................................................................................................15
Suggested Additional Equipment................................................................................................ 17
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Congratulations on receiving the KegLand Beginner’s Home
Brew Starter Kit!
This kit will allow you to brew 23 litres (30 bottles) of great-
tasting beer at home with ease and affordability.
Home brewing can be as easy or as complicated as you would
like it to be, and who knows –this may just be your start down
the path of becoming a professional brewer!
What’s in the box
Page 4of 17 www.KegLand.com.au Last updated 7 May 2019
What’s in the box
Please take a moment before getting stuck in to double-check you have everything that’s
meant to be included:
•1 x 30L Fermenter (KL07207);
•1 x Black Fermenter Tap (KL10672);
•1 x Silicone Tap Plug (KL04220);
•1 x Fermenter Air-Lock (KLO1595);
•1 x Rubber Grommet for Fermenter Air-Lock (KL01625);
•1 x Stick-on Fermenter Thermometer (KL01618);
•1 x Fermenter/Beverage Label (KL07153);
•1 x Bottling Wand (KL12607);
•1 x Large Plastic Brewing Spoon (KL03827);
•1 x Non-Rinse Iodine Sanitiser 100ml (KL06033);
•1 x Powerful Brewery Wash (‘PBW’) 30g sachet (KL09430);
•1 x Hydrometer (KL04312);
•30 x Brown PET 740ml bottles;
•30 x Bottle Caps (94g Net);
•1 x Muntons™ - Ingredient Can kit (includes brewing yeast); and
•1 x Muntons™ - Brew Enhancer 1kg (KL11990).
If you are missing anything in the kit, please contact the retailer you purchased it from.
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The ‘3 golden rules of brewing’
Here are a few things to remember before we get started to ensure you get the best possible results the first-time
round. You’ve probably heard horror stories from that one friend who tried home brewing once who’s efforts
resulted in a fermenter full of vomit-smelling mould? Follow these simple tips to make sure that doesn’t happen!
Sanitation is next to godliness!
Sanitise, sanitise, sanitise! We can’t stress this point enough: good beer starts with good sanitation! Bacteria and
germs are the enemy of brewing; just one speck of bacteria can quickly ruin a whole batch and turn your entire brew
sour. You need to rigorously sanitise everything you use in brewing that will touch the beer.
Bacteria and germs are invisible to the naked eye, but fortunately are easy to eliminate by following the sanitation
steps in our instructions below. Remember too: you can only sanitise clean equipment, so make sure your
equipment is sparkling clean before you begin
Great beer takes patience!
All good things take time - including beer. Unfortunately, though, waiting is the hardest part of brewing. Once you
screw the lid of your fermenter on and push it into the corner, the wait begins… Fermentation for your average beer
will take anywhere from 1-3 weeks. In this time, it’s important to leave it alone, as hard as that will be.
Each time you open the fermenter to take a peek or have a sniff, you run the risk of introducing wild bacteria and
germs that float around in the outside air into your fermenter. As we learnt above, bacteria are the enemy of beer so
it’s important to avoid this wherever possible.
The yeast in the beer take time to do their job. It is perfectly normal for this to take up to 3+ weeks! You need to let
the yeast finish fermenting completely. You should also give the yeast another week after your beer stops
fermenting to ‘clean up after themselves’ and remove any of the off-flavours they may have left behind from
fermentation.
Additionally, once your beer has finished fermenting, the yeast will ‘flocculate’ and settle out of the beer. The longer
you leave the beer, the clearer and less cloudy it will be.
Control your temperatures!
Throughout these instructions you will see us refer to specific temperatures. To get the cleanest, crispest tasting
beer, it is best to make sure you’re as close to these temperatures as possible. Aside from bad sanitation, bad
control of your brewing temperatures is the second biggest reason people end up disappointed with their home
brewed beer. Controlling your temperatures as tightly as possible sets you up for the best possible beer you can
make.
For example, you want to add the yeast to the wort (aka unfermented beer) when it is below 21c and make sure the
temperature stays within that 17-20c range for the next few weeks while it ferments. This is because yeast are very
temperamental creatures: too low of a temperature (below 15c) and the yeast might go to sleep and not ferment
the beer; too high of a temperature (above 21c) and you will probably start getting undesirable off-flavours from
fermentation going too fast.
Many kit instructions and beginner recipes will say to ferment in the 21-25c range so that you get a speedy ferment.
However, this will come at the cost of increased off-flavours and hangover-causing fusel alcohols.
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Step-by-step home brewing
This is a great video run-through on how to get your first batch brewing:
https://youtu.be/74OMIqDdrkU?t=93
Now that we have gone over the 3 golden rules of brewing, we can begin making our precious liquid-gold!
Please ensure you read and comprehend these instructions thoroughly before beginning.
1. Assembling the fermenter:
Once you have unboxed your KegLand beginner’s home brew kit and
checked everything is included, begin by assembling your fermenter.
The Black Plastic Fermenter Tap will screw into the threaded port at
the bottom of your large white 30L HDPE fermenter. Sometimes
there’s a little white plug installed in the tap hole; this can be easily
removed with the flat rear part of a spoon. If the inside of the hole is
undrilled, this can easily be drilled out at home with a ~10mm drill bit.
The Black Rubber Grommet fits tightly in the hole on the lid to
provide a leak-free seal for the included Air Lock that squeezes into
the grommets hole.
The Stick-On Thermometer should be stuck on the outside of the
fermenter. We suggest putting it next to the volume markings
between the 10L and 20L markings.
2. Cleaning the fermenter:
The fermenter comes ready-to-sanitise right out of the box so this step may be skipped if so. If it is not your
first time using it, it may need to cleaned first.
For caked on yeast, dust, dirt or grime, cleaning can be done by filling the rinsed-out fermenter with hot tap
water up to the brim and emptying in the included sachet of Powerful Brewery Wash (PBW) and mixing well.
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The heavier the soiling, the longer it will need to soak. PBW is a proprietary blend of safe chemicals that do
the hard work for you.
Any other dirty brewing equipment can also be soaked in the fermenter.
After a few hours of soaking, any remaining soiling can be gently wiped away with a soft cloth. Make sure
not to use harsh scrubbers that may scratch the plastic and create ideal places for batch-ruining bacteria to
hide.
Once the fermenter is clean, the PBW solution can be rinsed out with warm tap water ready for the next
step: sanitising.
3. Sanitising your equipment and fermenter:
Now the most important step: sanitation!
In your assembled fermenter, add 6 litres of lukewarm tap water. Add 1 level teaspoon of the included
Non-Rinse Iodine Sanitiser to the water and mix well with your Brewing Spoon.
You now have 6 litres of sanitiser that will kill 99.9% of germs on contact that does not need to be rinsed off
your equipment! (Be careful, it may stain some surfaces)
Seal up the fermenter with the lid, hold your finger over the Air Lock hole and shake the entire fermenter to
coat the insides with sanitiser making sure to get into all the little nooks.
Now, empty approximately 5 litres of the sanitiser carefully into a large tub for sanitising your other
equipment. We find it handy to put the other 1 Litre into a spray bottle so you can quickly spray down
anything on the fly that may need re-sanitising.
Rinse everything that may come into contact with the beer in the tub of sanitiser. Including:
•Brewing spoon;
•Can opener (for opening your Muntons’ Ingredient Can);
•Scissors (for opening your yeast sachet and Brew Enhancer);
•Air Lock; and
•Handy measuring jug (not included).
30 seconds contact time with the sanitiser is all that is needed, but to be sure you’re not re-picking up
bacteria, you can leave it in the sanitiser until it comes time to use them. The dark brown colour of the
sanitiser makes it easy to see which parts have been sanitised.
Because this is a no-rinse sanitiser, there’s no need to rinse it off with water before you start brewing.
4. Mixing up the wort:
Now the fun begins!
First, begin by taking the lid of your Muntons Ingredient can and removing the silver sachet of yeast and
included instruction pamphlet. Set this sachet aside (you can even put it in your tub of sanitiser to be extra
sanitary!).
Put your Muntons can in your kitchen sink and fill it with very hot water. Let the submersed can soak for 10
minutes topping up the sink with hot water as it cools. This will soften the malt syrup inside the can so it
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pours out easier. It would be handy to take a photo of or write down the instructions for your can here as
the label will likely come off in the water
Carefully remove the Muntons can from the hot water and carefully open it with your sanitised can opener
(we like to use our spray bottle of sanitiser here to quickly sanitise our hands and the top of the can before
we open it). Be careful not to lose your lid inside the can and be careful of sharp edges.
Carefully pour the contents of your
Muntons can into your empty sanitised
fermenter. Carefully scrape out the
remaining syrup with your sanitised
brewing spoon. Some people like to pour a
little bit of boiling water out of the kettle
into the can to dissolve the remaining
syrup, but don’t worry too much about the
small amount that may be left over.
Top up the fermenter with 10L of cold tap
water (filtered fridge or spring water is
even better if you have it) and stir
vigorously with your sanitised spoon to
dissolve the syrup. Don’t worry too much about splashing and foam here, the extra aeration and oxygen is
actually good for the yeast!
Once dissolved, use your sanitised scissors to open
your included 1kg bag of Muntons Brew Enhancer and
carefully pour the powdered contents into the
fermenter. Stir well again with your sanitised spoon to
dissolve. Don’t worry if you can’t dissolve all of the
clumps, the yeast will still eat them all up anyway.
Top up your fermenter with cold tap water until you
reach 1 litre less than the volume the instructions that
came with your can says (explained next step). Most
Muntons Ingredient Kit Can’s will make between 21-23
Litres. Give the fermenter one last stir with your
sanitised spoon.
At this point, you should check your wort’s temperature with your fermenter’s Stick-On
Thermometer. You should ideally be in the 17c-20c range. If you are too low, top up the
fermenter with 1 litre of warm or boiling water to bring the temperature up. If you are too
high, top up the fermenter with 1 litre of cold water (you can even add some ice if you are
very high).
Once you are at the perfect volume and temperature range, you can now add the yeast.
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Take your sanitised scissors and carefully cut off the corner of the small silver sachet of yeast. Sprinkle the
yeast evenly over the surface of the wort.
Give your fermenter’s lid one last sanitise (make sure to get in around the seals) and screw firmly onto the
fermenter.
Now is a good time to take a ‘hydrometer sample’ to check how much
sugar is dissolved into the unfermented beer. This pre-fermentation
reading will help you calculate how much alcohol will be in your final
product. Simply take your hydrometer’s storage tube and fill that with
wort (don’t worry! It’s only 100ml!), then float the hydrometer in the
tubes liquid and take your reading from the ‘meniscus line’ (see picture
right). This pre-fermentation gravity reading is known as your Original
Gravity (‘OG’).
Take your sanitised Air Lock and gently but firmly insert it into the lid’s
rubber grommet. The Air Lock should be half-filled with clean tap water
after the small clear plastic dome has been put inside. The little white
cap can be capped back on top after.
The Air Lock’s job is to allow the CO2 given off by the yeast during
fermentation without letting any dirty outside air in.
The leftover sanitiser can be stored in an air-tight bucket for re-use during bottling or disposed of
appropriately.
5. The fermentation:
You need to find somewhere in your house to put the fermenter where it will remain undisturbed for the
next 3 weeks.
This spot should ideally be out of direct sunlight and consistently between 17c-20c at all hours of the day. If
the temperature gets over 20c, it won’t ruin your beer, but the chances of having off-flavours in your beer
from the beer fermenting too fast increase significantly. These ‘hot’ and ‘fruity’ (in a bad way) flavours may
be more noticeable to some than others or hardly there at all.
Read our ‘3 Golden Rules of brewing’ above and our tips on ‘Getting the Best Possible Beer’ below for more
on the importance of temperature control and how to achieve it.
Now that the yeast is in and you’ve found your fermenter somewhere nice to live, the hard part begins:
waiting for it to be done!
6. Bottling your finished brew:
Gently move your fermenter to a bench where you plan to bottle the beer from. It is best to put the
fermenter near the edge or somewhere else elevated so you can easily access the Bottling Wand that will be
coming down from the Fermenter Tap.
Make sure when you’re moving the fermenter that you do your best not to stir up the settled yeast and trub
(proteins and other solids that settle out of the beer) that’s settled at the bottom of the fermenter. You will
most likely be able to see through the hazy-white plastic a clear 1-3cm dense layer of cream goop at the
bottom. Stirring this up too much will mean it ends up in your bottled beer, making it much cloudier. Some
Correct installation of air lock
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people like to move their fermenter to the bottling position 24hrs before they plan to bottle so that any
yeast and trub that has been stirred up has a chance to settle back to the bottom.
Once you are ready to bottle, take your pre-mixed sanitiser from earlier (or mix up a new batch) and put it in
your handy tub or bucket. At this point, you want to sanitise again everything that will be coming into
contact with your beer, just as you did before (see, I told this whole ‘sanitation’ thing was serious business!).
Place your bottling wand in the bucket of sanitiser and spray a bit of sanitiser up into the spout of the tap.
Take your clean bottles and sanitise them all making sure to get every surface wet with sanitiser. You can
then put them to drain upside down in a clean dishwashing rack (some people use their dishwasher drawers
for this). Dump all your bottle caps into the sanitiser, give them a swish around and scoop them out into a
clean bowl so they’re ready to go on after bottling.
1. Priming: The beer needs more sugar added to the bottles so that the yeast leftover in the beer eat it and
produce more CO2 gas to carbonate and fizz the bottled beer. This can be done a few different ways:
a. Carbonation drops [EASIEST]: these are pre-dose sugar pills you can purchase from your local
Woolworths or homebrew shop. You simply add 2 to each 740ml bottle and fill it with beer and
seal.
b. Bottle priming: simply put one full teaspoon of sugar into each bottle before filling.
c. Batch priming: where you mix in the pre-measured amount of sugar into the entire bulk batch
before bottling and then bottle as normal.
2. Try not to aerate the beer during bottling. Oxygen is fermented beers worst enemy and stales it quick.
3. Remove the Air Lock and open the tap. Push the bottle up into the bottling wand to start the beer flow.
4. Once you have primed and bottled your beer, quickly put the sanitised cap on tightly and rinse off.
5. Put the bottles in somewhere warm for the next 3 weeks so the yeast has time to eat the extra sugar
added at bottling and create your beers fizz. Do not put the beer in the fridge until it is fully carbonated
and fizzy.
7. TRYING YOUR BEER!
Great! You’ve waited patiently these last 6 weeks, it’s time to be rewarded with a tasting of your first batch
of homemade beer!
Take a bottle of your beer and place it in the fridge 24hrs before you intend to try it. This will allow the
carbonation’s fizz to settle down, so it doesn’t foam too much. Careful not to stir up the yeast that’s settled
at the bottom too much.
Open and enjoy!
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Troubleshooting
Common Problems:
Air Lock not bubbling? Probably just the lid isn’t sealed or delayed/completed fermentation. Air locks are only an
indicator, so best bet would be to take a hydrometer sample (read how below).
Mould on top of beer? Bad sanitation or opening the fermenter too much. Turf this batch and start again as it may
no longer safe to drink.
Beer isn’t fizzy? Did you remember to put sugar in? If yes, then just wait longer or keep the beer warmer.
Foams everywhere when opening? Possibly too much priming sugar, bottled too soon or bacterial infection.
Too fizzy? Possibly too much priming sugar. If it tastes sour too, it could be bacteria from bad sanitation. Germs go
into your beer somewhere along the line so re-check your sanitation.
Looks cloudy/hazy? Completely normal. With time the yeast and haze will settle out. Will be stirred if moved.
Common off-flavours:
Tastes sour/off/vinegary? Most likely bad sanitation. Bacteria or wild yeast have gotten in.
Tastes too ‘thin’?Use less water and simple sugars and add more malt next time to get a heavier, richer body.
Tastes ‘cidery’? Could be bad sanitation. Could also be too much simple sugars or fermenting too warm (20c+).
Tastes ‘buttery’? probably diacetyl caused by bottling too soon or not fermenting warm enough (below 17c). This
can be avoided by raising the fermenters temperature to 21c towards the end of fermentation.
Tastes ‘yeasty’? beer could just be too young and need aging. Sometimes caused by yeast being overheated.
Tastes ‘fruity’(not the good kind)? Some exotic styles will. Often caused by fermenting too warm (20c+).
Tastes medicinal/astringent? Could be from a bacterial infection or airborne yeast. It could also be from leaving too
much sanitiser behind in the fermenter by not draining fully or if you have a lot of chlorine in your tap water. Carbon
filtering or campden tablets will help with the chlorine.
Tastes ‘boozy’/’burning’/’hot’/solventy? Fusel alcohols caused by too high of a fermentation temperature (20c+)
Tastes like cardboard? Oxidation. Often caused by aerating the beer too much post-fermentation.
Too bitter? The specific Muntons can may have been too bitter for your tastes. Try a lighter style like a lager.
Tastes/smells sulphury? The yeast was stressed. Did your fermenter get below 17c during the ferment? It could also
be bacteria infection in some cases too.
Does your beer taste stale or skunked? The technical term for this is ‘light-struck’and is caused by your beer being
left in direct sunlight. If you can see your beer, so can UV rays, so use the darkest brown bottles you can.
Please visit this link for more in depth information on commonly encountered off-flavours and how to solve them.
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Brewing Techniques Explained
Taking Hydrometer readings
Hydrometers are used heavily in-home brewing to tell how much sugar
is in your unfermented beer, how much alcohol is in your finished beer
and whether your beer is done fermenting.
You simply fill your hydrometers tube with wort/beer and float your
hydrometer in the solution. The gravity reading is the number
displayed at the liquid level on the float (see picture right).
To check if your beer has stopped fermenting, simply take two
separate readings three days apart from each other. If the second
reading is lower, the beers is still fermenting. If it is the same as the
first reading, Fermentation has finished.
If your finishing gravity is much higher than you are expecting (eg. Above 1.020 for a normal beer), your
fermentation may have stalled. If this is the case, give the fermenter a gentle swirl to ‘rouse’the yeast back into
action and make sure the temperature isn’t too high. If this doesn’t work, you can sprinkle in some more yeast.
Click here for the in’s and out’s of using a hydrometer.
1
This resource is also excellent.
2
If you want to know what alcohol by volume (‘ABV’) your beer is, you can use this easy-to-use online calculator.
Cleaning and sanitation
As previously mentioned, cleanliness and sanitation are
the single most important things in brewing.
Brewing involves putting yeast in to sugary liquid, the
yeast then eats this sugar and spit out alcohol and CO2.
However, if you get some other sort of mould, bacteria or
wild yeast in your batch as well as that yeast, not only can
it potentially ruin your batch and turn it to vinegar, it can
make you sick.
Fortunately, though, with the right chemicals and a bit of know-how, cleaning and sanitation are a breeze! Have a
look at the video to the right for a full run through.
1
Jeff Flowers, How to Use a Hydrometer in 4 Easy Steps (learn.kegerator.com, 15 July 2014) <https://learn.kegerator.com/using-
a-hydrometer/>.
2
John Palmer, Using Hydrometers (howtobrew.com, 2015) <http://howtobrew.com/book/appendices/appendix-a/using-
hydrometers>.
Link: https://youtu.be/h2-1h2pemQY
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Temperature control
The best possible thing a brewer can do is to start controlling the
temperatures of their fermentation. This is the single biggest reason new
brewers get disappointing results and are dissuaded from trying a second
batch.
We strongly recommend you pitch your yeast in at a temperature between
17c-20c and keep it steady there for the duration of the fermentation.
Fermenting above the normal temperature range may produce excessive
fruity-flavoured esters or harsh-flavoured fusel alcohols. Fermenting below
the normal temperature risks stalling the yeast and stopping fermentation
altogether.
Many people are lucky to have a room in their house that stays perfectly within this range year-round, whereas the
rest of us are less lucky. Fortunately, however there are plenty of genius ways to get around this and keep your
fermenters temperature nice and cool or warm despite your ambient temperature.
This link is an excellent resource on improvised and more serious forms of temperature control.
Digital temperatures controllers are relatively cheap these days and means all you have to do is put your fermenter
in an old bar fridge with a small heat belt tucked inside and plug the two into the temp controller to have automated
worry-free fermentation.
Getting the Best Possible Beer
Munton’s kits are a great way to make quality beer easily at home…. But… with a little extra effort, you can really
make them jaw-droppers!
Steeping grains
Steeped grains enhance the flavour, colour and mouthfeel of home brewed
beer. Award winning extract beers all use some kind of steeped grains.
Steeped grains add body, colour, and a fresh flavour to your homebrewed
beer.
Typically the grains you use depend on your recipe. Lighter beers like pale
ales will benefit from steeping some light crystal malt to add a light caramel,
toffee, biscuity note. Darker beers like stouts and porters may benefit from
using some darker, more toasted grains like chocolate malt or roasted barley
to add some deep toasted dark chocolate coffee notes.
This article from BYO.com is an excellent resource explains the simple
process that will help add more of that ‘malt character’ and complexity
you’re craving.
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Mini hop boil
Are you a hop head chasing more of that fruity, piney hop aroma you have grown to love? Look no further than a
mini hop boil to deliver just that!
By their very nature, sometimes extracts just can’t capture that super fresh and delicate hop aroma that is easily lost
in packaging. Fortunately, making a little hop tea to add to your fermenter is simple and effective.
The process essentially involves taking 1 to 2 litres of your total
brewing water (usually around ~23L) and bringing it to a boil on
your stove. Add a few tablespoons of your powdered brew
enhancer or malt extract to improve hop flavour and bitterness
extraction. You can then add hops and boil for 10 minutes
before pouring the liquid through a strainer into your fermenter
before adding your extract and topping up with cold water as
usual.
This method works great in conjunction with the
aforementioned grain steeping, in fact, you can use your
resultant liquid from the grain steeping process to boil your
hops in!
The types and amount of hops you use will depend on your style of beer or personal preference. Traditionally, hop-
bombs such as IPA’s and pale ales will use large amounts of American type ‘C’-hops (cascade, citra, centennial,
chinook, columbus, crystal, etc), these types of hops are known for having intense fruity, floral, pine, citrus flavours
such as passionfruit, grapefruit, pineapple, etc. 50gm of hop pellets for a standard 23-litre batch is a good starting
point for huge hop flavour. For European beers or lagers, you will likely want a more subtle hop variety that adds a
fresh earthy, herbal spiciness, such as saaz, tettneng, hallertau, east kent goldings, willamette, fuggles, etc.
Don’t let style hold you back though – home brewing’s about fun and creativity! Throw some crazy citrus hops into
your lager, you just might be onto something good!
We sell a huge range of hops in fresh foil vacuum packs which are more than enough for 2 batches!
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Dry hopping
Another excellent and easy way to add a heap of fresh hop aroma and flavour is to ‘dry hop’ your beer once it has
done fermenting. Dry hopping is all the big breweries favourite tool and we don’t blame them!
Like with the above mini-boil, this step involves adding a dose
of hops to your beer, the only difference is with dry hopping,
you add them after the beer has finished fermenting to the
beer for a few days before bottling/kegging as usual.
Simply take anywhere from 25-100gm of hop pellets, crack
the lid on your fermenter after 10 days (or whenever it has
finished fermenting) and gently sprinkle in the dry, loose hop
pellets. They will impart their flavour like cold brew coffee
over the course of 3-4 days. Don’t worry if they float on the
top, they will sink after a few days to the bottom at which
point you can bottle as usual.
Be careful of introducing bacteria and oxygen at this point though! You only need to crack the lid long enough to
pour the hops in then immediately shut!
We sell a huge range of hops in fresh foil vacuum packs which are more than enough for 2+ batches!
https://www.kegland.com.au/ingredients/hops.html
Specialty brewing yeast
The Muntons kits have quality yeast from a renowned manufacturer included under the lid. However, an easy way to
improve the quality of your finished beer is to use more or better yeast.
There are hundreds of types of dry yeast available specifically for brewers on the market, many of them include
enough high-quality specialised yeast to ensure you have a healthy and complete fermentation. These yeasts also
ensure the flavours your get from them are the flavours you expect, whether that be a clean, dry crispness for a
lager or pale ale, right up to a spicy, banana and bubble-gum phenolic flavour for your traditional wheat beer.
For American-type ales like pale ale, brown ale, IPA’s, blonde
ales, etc, we recommend using one of the American ale yeasts
we have in our range, such as US-05, BRY-97 or Nottingham
yeast.
For European styles such as bitters, stouts and porters, we have
the perfect yeasts for that too, as well as everything in between!
Best bet would be to have a browse through our extensive yeast
selection and see which sounds tastiest to you! It’s that easy!
Hop pellets in fermenter
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Re-using your last batches yeast cake
If you want to use the yeast included with the Muntons kit, we
suggest you buy two Muntons cans so you have 2 yeast sachets
in total and use both of those sachets in the first single batch
of beer (i.e. doubling the amount of yeast). Then, once your
beer has finished fermenting and you have bottled up the
beer, you will be left with a thick, creamy cake of super-healthy
and active yeast. This yeast is perfect for fermenting a second
batch of beer, so simply mix up your second can of Muntons
right on top of the leftover yeast cake and away you go! This
second batch of beer will likely ferment faster and better than
your first batch! Be careful not to pour hot wort straight onto
your yeast cake or you will kill it!
Premium ingredient packs
The reality with ingredients is you get what you pay for. If you’re looking for a premium beer without the additional
steps, then look no further than our premium range of Muntons products. These packs are tailored to their style: the
oaked ale includes quality malt with real oak chips, the American pale ale includes an additional packet of dry hops
and a premium American ale yeast, the Belgian saison ale includes an authentic saison yeast as well as extra pack of
malt to recreate that authentic secondary fermentation.
Yeast cake left over after bottling
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Suggested Additional Equipment
Looking to improve your kit and have the right gear on hand to do the job in the best possible way?
•Ethanol spray (part # KL05371)
•Stellarsan (part # KL05357)
•Powerful Brewery Wash (‘PBW’) 1kg (part # KL05494)
•Heavy Duty Brewing Gloves (part # KL05289)
•Digital Temperature Controller (part # KL01946)
•Heating Wrap (part # KL01960) or Heating Belt (part # KL01953)
Table of contents
Other KegLand Kitchen Appliance manuals
