Step 4
Checking the accuracy of the alignment of the sliding table and making adjustments.
*From the 'goodie' box remove the clamp post (item 35, fig. 8). The style of clamp post will
depend on whether you have the standard or the optional large sliding table.
With the standard table, the post is a straight round bar.
With the large table, the post has a threaded end and a hole drilled through it near the
threaded end.
*Install the clamp post in the hole in the front end of the table. For the standard table, insert
the end of the post into the hold and secure it using a large knob locking screw (item 37, fig.
8). For the large table, screw the threaded end of the post into the hole and tighten it using
the tommy bar (provided) through the hole in the post.
*Drop the miter pivot bracket (item 38, fig. 8) on the pivot post and orient it with the flat side of
the bracket facing the rear of the machine.
*Insert two (2) T-bolts into the slot on the front side (the side opposite the measuring scale) of
the miter fence (item 25, fig. 24)
Note:The measure scale faces the saw blade.
*Insert the two (2) T-bolts through the holes in the miter pivot bracket, securing the miter
fence against the flat face of the miter pivot bracket.
*Insert the 2" long T-bolt in the bottom groove in the miter fence (item 25, fig. 4) and place
downwards through slot in side table. Install a washer and wing nut underneath to pivot miter
fence.
*Raise the saw blade arbor into the uppermost position and lock it in place (ref.
item 7, appendix A).
*Install the saw blade (ref. 4-A, page 40, service and operating instructions, Robland).
*At this point it will be necessary for you to provide a straight piece of material about two or
three feet long with parallel edges. A carpenter’s level or square will work. If you don't have
one of those, take a piece of 2 x 4 and join one edge of it (on your new jointer) and thickness
plane the opposite edge (on your new thickness planer).
*Place the edge of the parallel straight edge piece against the left side of the saw blade.
*Adjust the miter fence so that the end comes near the left edge of the parallel. Then move
the sliding table back and forth observing the gap between the parallel and the end of the
miter fence. The difference in the gap should be no more than a few thousandths of an inch.
*If the parallel of the sliding table travel is found to be less accurate than desired, it will be
necessary to adjust the location of the rail assembly. Adjustment is completed as follows:
*Make sure both rail-locking levers (item 5, fig. 7) are securely locked.
*Slightly loosen both the inboard and outboard rail support adjustment bolts (fig. 7, items 28 &
29) on the front of the machine only.
*The rail assembly may then be adjusted toward or away from the table to correct whatever
deficiency may have been noted. It may take two or three times to get it to the desired preci-
sion, and you may find that you may not be able to make enough movement to correct the
problem using only the front adjustment. If so, tighten the front-adjusting bolts and follow the
same process using the rear-adjusting bolts.
*Tighten both adjusting bolts and check that nothing changed while you were tightening them.
*Lower the saw blade and adjust the miter fence so that it spans the full width of the saw
table.
*Observe the clearance between the saw table and the miter fence (with the miter fence
being held firmly down on the sliding table) at both edges of the saw table.
The amount of clearance desired is a matter of personal preference, but 1/32 of an inch is
usually satisfactory. 17.