Ledco premier 4 series Operating instructions

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TROUBLESHOOTING PREMIER 4 SERIES LAMINATORS
SECTION ONE:BASICS
Troubleshooting the PREMIER 4 laminator will be
addressed in three general areas:
1.Heat
2.Drive
3.Web tension/Roll pressure and adhesion
And at three general levels:
1.Basic,end-user level(plugs,fuses,etc)
2.Intermediate or dealer level(minor adjustments,
basic diagnostics)
3.Advanced or servicing dealer level(true servicing
issues,mechanics,electronics,and advanced
diagnostics)
*****PLEASE NOTE*****
To assure you get the best performance from your
laminator,always follow the safety,installation,
operation and maintenance instructions in the owners/
operation manual .Read the manual before using the
laminator,keep the manual with the machine ,and
periodically review the instructions.This troubleshooting
guide is to be used after referring to the operation manual
and problems still persist.

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SECTION 2:TROUBLESHOOTING THE HEAT SYSTEM
When troubleshooting the heat system,problems usually fall
under two descriptions;A)no heat or B) uncontrolable,
runaway heat.
A.NO HEAT
1)Basic.Check the power cord.Make sure it is securely
inserted in the wall outlet(110 vac)and the receptacle
located on the back of the laminator.
Be sure to engage the heat switch to the up or “l”
position as denoted by the label markings next to the
switch.The switch will illuminate red when engaged,and the
digital display should light up and read the actual present
temperature indicating power is getting to the system.If the
heat switch does not light up(and concurrently neither would
the digital display),disconnect the power cord and with a
phillips head screw driver remove the 11 screws from the
right hand plastic housing,remove the cam shaft handle
using a 1/8” allen wrench and with a small straight blade
screwdriver remove the speed control knob.Then remove
the housing and inspect all the wiring and connectors for
any that may be loose or disconnected.Carefully reconnect
any loose or disconnected wires exactly as shown in the
schematics in the back of the owners/operation manual.If
any wires are broken or shorted out,call your dealer,a
servicing dealer/technician,the Ledco service dept, or move
on to the next,intermediate level of troubleshooting.
If the wiring looks good upon initial visual inspection and
the heat switch and digital display still do not illuminate upon
engaging the heat switch,now examine the 1.5 amp fuse

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(located to the right of the wiring terminal block)to see if the
fuse has failed.If the fuse has failed(it will appear discolored
and the element inside broken)replace it with a new 1.5 amp
fuse (always replace any fuse with the same rated fuse).
The heat system should now be operational.If not,you
should now consult with your dealer,a servicing dealer/
technician,the Ledco service dept. or move on to the
next,intermediate,trouble shooting level.
In the event of engaging the heat switch and it illuminates,
but the digital display does not,visually examine the grey
wire ribbon cable and connector to the display for looseness
or broken wires.If the plastic harness for the wire ribbon
cable is loose or disconnected from its receptacle at the
back of the digital display,re-insert it into the receptacle(it
will only go in one way).The display should now be
operational.If not,the ribbon cable may be disconnected
from the heat control circuit board located inside the
machine, the ribbon cable itself could be faulty (the small
grey wires could be broken or shorted out)or the digital
display/temperature adjustment board may be faulty. A
servicing dealer/technician or the Ledco service dept
should be consulted to reconnect or replace the ribbon
cable and/or replace the digital display board.
If you engage the heat switch and it does not illuminate
but the digital display lights up and shows three dashes
(- - -)this indicates the heat sensor is disconnected or faulty.
With the power cord disconnected and the right side plastic
housing removed,visually inspect the heat sensor wires and
quick connectors(the thin black wires from the top heat
shoe)and re-connect them if loose.If the wires and
connectors seem OK and the digital display still reads the

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three dashes(- - -),the heat sensor and/or the heat control
board need to be tested to determine which component is
faulty and needs replacement .You should now consult your
dealer,a servicing dealer tech,the Ledco service dept. or
move on to the next,Intermediate troubleshooting level.
2)Intermediate.If the heat system 1.5 amp fuse is ok and
the red heat switch(and concurrently the digital temperature
display) do not illuminate when engaged,disconnect the
power cord and remove the right side housing as explained
previously.Examine all wires and connectors for the heat
system to see if any wires are disconnected,broken or
shorting out.If disconnected,re-connect exactly as shown in
wiring schematic.If broken or shorted out,replace with new
exactly as shown in schematic.If the heat switch(and digital
display) do not illuminate when engaged and there is still no
heat,with a multimeter check the continuity of the heat
switch by putting your multimeter probes on terminals 5 and
6(the two innermost terminals)of the heat switch(with their
two respective wire connectors disconnected) then,with the
power supply disconnected,engage the heat switch.If there
is no continuity reading,the switch is bad.Replace the
switch(currently part # PRS311)and rewire exactly as shown
in the schematic.
With the heat switch(and digital display) functional and
engaged,if there is still no heat or one heat shoe heats and
the other does not,using the multimeter check the continuity
of the heaters by putting your multimeter probes on the wire
leads of the top heater, then the bottom heater.If there is no
continuity reading for the respective heater being tested,that
heater is bad and should be replaced(part # PRH147)and

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rewired exactly as shown in the schematic.If there is still no
heat,call a servicing dealer/technician,the Ledco service
dept. or continue on to the advanced trouble shooting level.
As mentioned in the previous troubleshooting level,if you
have heat and no digital display read out,chances are
(provided all the respective wires and connectors check out
OK)the digital read out is faulty and should be replaced with
a new display from part # PRH130 heat control replacement
kit.Gently disconnect the plastic wire harness from its
receptacle on the back of the display by depressing the
small tab on the harness,then unscrew the three plastic
acorn nuts from the back of the display board to remove.Re-
install the new display in the exact reverse sequence.The
display should now be operational.If not,the problem lies in
either the ribbon cable or the heat control and you should
now consult a servicing dealer/tech,the Ledco service dept
or move on to the next,Advanced,level of troubleshooting,
diagnostics and repair.
3)Advanced.With all of the previously mentioned
components checked and operational,if there is still no
heat,and specifically no heat with a digital display showing
three dashes(- - -),use a multimeter to check resistance on
the (disconnected)heat sensor wires.The sensor will have
an approximate resistance of 1.089 ohms at room
temperature.If the sensor has no resistance(or reads open
line or circuit)it is bad and should be replaced(part #
PRC212S) and rewired exactly as shown in schematic.To
remove the heat sensor from the heat shoe,first disconnect
the top heater wires and heat sensor wires from their
respective terminals.Loosen the small thumbscrews that

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secure the heat shoes to the inside side panels near the
feed tray.Next,using a 9/64 allen wrench,loosen and remove
the two cap head screws and sleeves that secure the heat
shoe through the side panel near the center of the machine.
Cut the small white wire tie that secures the heater and heat
sensor wires to the side panel(they are covered with
black,heat shrink tubing).Now you can carefully lift out the
top heat shoe/threading guide/idler assembly to gain greater
access to the individual components.Using a phillips head
screw driver, remove the four flat head screws(and phenolic
spacers) that secure the heat shoe to the left and right heat
shoe brackets.This will allow you to swing the heat shoe
free to take a 5/64 allen wrench and loosen the set screw
that secures the heat sensor and bullet to the inside of the
heat shoe.This set screw is located in the center of the back
of the heat shoe,in line with the round head phillips screws
that hold the rubber roll heater in place.Extract the faulty
heat sensor/bullet from the inside of the shoe and replace
with new(part #’s PRC212S and 4285 061.4).Reassemble in
exact reverse sequence,rewire exactly as shown in the
schematic.Heat system should now be operational.
If not,the ribbon cable and heat control board are the only
components left to test and/or replace.Since there is no
easy way to accurately test the ribbon cable,your best bet is
to just replace it.Logically this will rectify any ribbon cable-
related problems.To replace the ribbon cable,and to gain
total access to the heat control board for testing and/or
replacement,the bottom motor cover must be removed.
With both housings removed,place the machine upside
down on your work bench.Using a phillips head screw

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driver,remove the five self tapping screws that secure the
bottom motor cover to the front motor cover.
Remove the two flat head and two round head screws that
secure the bottom motor cover to the right and left hand side
panels.Carefully pull back the bottom motor cover enough to
gain access to the components within.You may find it
necessary to disconnect the leads to the power cord
receptacle and fuse holder to completely remove the bottom
motor cover.Make careful note of these connections as to
re-connect them correctly later.Once you have gained
adequate access to the heat control board,you can now
remove and replace the ribbon cable(it disconnects from the
control board the same as from the digital display board
explained previously).
Now we can test the heat control board.Disconnect all the
wire leads from their respective terminals(make note of their
locations to ensure proper re-connection later).Using a multi
meter set to k ohms,put one probe on terminal T4(common)
and the other probe on terminal T1(208 v).You should get a
reading of approximately .910 kohms at room temperature.
If it shows open(infinite) or closed (no resistance) the board
is faulty and should be replaced.
Next with a probe on T4 again and the other on T2(240v),
you should get a reading of approximately .765 kohms at
room temp.Again,if it shows an open or closed reading the
board is faulty and should be replaced.
With one probe still on T4 and the other on T3 you should
get a reading of approximately .410 kohms at room temp.If
it shows open or closed,the board is faulty and should be
replaced.

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The next heat control board test involves putting the
probes on terminals T10 and T11(the heat sensor terminals)
and checking for approximately 32.9 kohms resistance.If it
reads open or closed circuit,the board has failed and should
be replaced.Note,a closed circuit reading would result in
uncontrollable,runaway heat.We will address that in the next
section.
Lastly,with the multimeter probes on terminals T6 and T7
and with no power to the board,there should be an open
circuit reading.Once you power it up it will close the circuit
(the relay) and remain closed until the temperature set point
has been reached and the circuit opens again.If,with no
power to the board,you get a closed circuit reading,the relay
has failed and the board will have to be replaced.Incidentally
this condition of a failed heat control board relay will most
likely result in runaway,uncontrollable heat,which leads us to
the next part of the heat system trouble shooting section….
B.UNCONTROLLABLE OR RUNAWAY HEAT
1) Basic.One of the most commonly asked questions is
“why is the film melting when the temperature is only
reading around 250 degrees?”Well,the answer may be as
simple as making sure your heat control is set on “F” for
farenheit,and not “C” for celsius.Power up the laminator and
engage the red heat switch.The digital display will show the
actual,present temperature.Now press and hold the small
blue temperature adjustment button for five seconds.This
will then show “F” or “C” on the display.Press the blue
button to toggle between “F” and “C”.Set it to “F” and leave
it.After five seconds the display will return to the actual
present temperature.The heat control can now be adjusted

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to the desired set point as described in section 5-1 of the
operation manual.
If after making sure the heat control has been set for
farenheit and uncontrollable,runaway heat persists,you
should now consult your dealer,a servicing dealer tech,the
Ledco service dept.,or move on to the next,Intermediate,
troubleshooting level.
2)Intermediate/Advanced.Disconnect the power cord
and remove the the right side housing as described
previously.Visually examine all wires for the heat system for
disconnected,broken or shorted-out wires.Pay particular
attention to the heat sensor wires.Re-connect or replace any
disconnected or broken/shorted wires and rewire them
exactly as shown in schematic.If symptoms persist,using a
multimeter check the heat sensor wires(you will have to
remove the bottom,back motor cover as instructed in the
previous section to gain access to the heat control board
and wiring thereof)with at least one wire disconnected from
its heat board terminal.As noted before,a fuctional heat
sensor reads 1.089 ohms resistance at room temperature,
an open reading means there would be no heat and a
closed reading(dead short)results in runaway,uncontrollable
heat.Either open or closed readings indicate heat sensor
failure and require replacement of the PRC212S heat
sensor and 4285 061.4 bullet and rewiring exactly as shown
in schematic.
Next,using your multimeter,check terminals T10 andT11
on the heat control board(the terminals for the heat sensor
wires).As described in the previous section,you should get a
reading of approximately 32.9 kohms resistance.An open or

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closed(resulting in runaway heat)reading means the control
board is faulty.Replace and rewire exactly as shown in the
schematic.
Finally,as explained in the last paragraph of the previous
section,using a multimeter,check terminals T6 andT7 on the
heat control board with their respective wires disconnected.
With the multimeter probes on these terminals and no power
to the board there should be an open circuit reading.Once
you power it up,it will close the circuit(the relay)and remain
closed until the temperature set point has been reached and
the circuit opens again.If,with no power to the board,you get
a closed reading(which would result in the relay staying
closed under power and subsequent overheating)the board
has failed and must be replaced and wired exactly as shown
in the schematic.
*Any questions as to the terms,procedures or references used in this guide,please call the Ledco service
dept. @ 800-937-9697
SECTION 3:TROUBLESHOOTING THE DRIVE SYSTEM
When troubleshooting the drive system,problems usually
fall under two descriptions;A)no drive,or B) intermittent drive
accompanied by strange clunking/ skipping or grinding
sounds.
A)NO DRIVE
1)Basic.Make sure the power cord is plugged in securely
to an appropriate power outlet,and completely inserted into
the receptacle at the back of the laminator.
Flip the switch labeled Forward/Reverse to the upper “I”,