Ledco premier 4 series Operating instructions

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TROUBLESHOOTING PREMIER 4 SERIES LAMINATORS
SECTION ONE:BASICS
Troubleshooting the PREMIER 4 laminator will be
addressed in three general areas:
1.Heat
2.Drive
3.Web tension/Roll pressure and adhesion
And at three general levels:
1.Basic,end-user level(plugs,fuses,etc)
2.Intermediate or dealer level(minor adjustments,
basic diagnostics)
3.Advanced or servicing dealer level(true servicing
issues,mechanics,electronics,and advanced
diagnostics)
*****PLEASE NOTE*****
To assure you get the best performance from your
laminator,always follow the safety,installation,
operation and maintenance instructions in the owners/
operation manual .Read the manual before using the
laminator,keep the manual with the machine ,and
periodically review the instructions.This troubleshooting
guide is to be used after referring to the operation manual
and problems still persist.

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SECTION 2:TROUBLESHOOTING THE HEAT SYSTEM
When troubleshooting the heat system,problems usually fall
under two descriptions;A)no heat or B) uncontrolable,
runaway heat.
A.NO HEAT
1)Basic.Check the power cord.Make sure it is securely
inserted in the wall outlet(110 vac)and the receptacle
located on the back of the laminator.
Be sure to engage the heat switch to the up or “l”
position as denoted by the label markings next to the
switch.The switch will illuminate red when engaged,and the
digital display should light up and read the actual present
temperature indicating power is getting to the system.If the
heat switch does not light up(and concurrently neither would
the digital display),disconnect the power cord and with a
phillips head screw driver remove the 11 screws from the
right hand plastic housing,remove the cam shaft handle
using a 1/8” allen wrench and with a small straight blade
screwdriver remove the speed control knob.Then remove
the housing and inspect all the wiring and connectors for
any that may be loose or disconnected.Carefully reconnect
any loose or disconnected wires exactly as shown in the
schematics in the back of the owners/operation manual.If
any wires are broken or shorted out,call your dealer,a
servicing dealer/technician,the Ledco service dept, or move
on to the next,intermediate level of troubleshooting.
If the wiring looks good upon initial visual inspection and
the heat switch and digital display still do not illuminate upon
engaging the heat switch,now examine the 1.5 amp fuse

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(located to the right of the wiring terminal block)to see if the
fuse has failed.If the fuse has failed(it will appear discolored
and the element inside broken)replace it with a new 1.5 amp
fuse (always replace any fuse with the same rated fuse).
The heat system should now be operational.If not,you
should now consult with your dealer,a servicing dealer/
technician,the Ledco service dept. or move on to the
next,intermediate,trouble shooting level.
In the event of engaging the heat switch and it illuminates,
but the digital display does not,visually examine the grey
wire ribbon cable and connector to the display for looseness
or broken wires.If the plastic harness for the wire ribbon
cable is loose or disconnected from its receptacle at the
back of the digital display,re-insert it into the receptacle(it
will only go in one way).The display should now be
operational.If not,the ribbon cable may be disconnected
from the heat control circuit board located inside the
machine, the ribbon cable itself could be faulty (the small
grey wires could be broken or shorted out)or the digital
display/temperature adjustment board may be faulty. A
servicing dealer/technician or the Ledco service dept
should be consulted to reconnect or replace the ribbon
cable and/or replace the digital display board.
If you engage the heat switch and it does not illuminate
but the digital display lights up and shows three dashes
(- - -)this indicates the heat sensor is disconnected or faulty.
With the power cord disconnected and the right side plastic
housing removed,visually inspect the heat sensor wires and
quick connectors(the thin black wires from the top heat
shoe)and re-connect them if loose.If the wires and
connectors seem OK and the digital display still reads the

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three dashes(- - -),the heat sensor and/or the heat control
board need to be tested to determine which component is
faulty and needs replacement .You should now consult your
dealer,a servicing dealer tech,the Ledco service dept. or
move on to the next,Intermediate troubleshooting level.
2)Intermediate.If the heat system 1.5 amp fuse is ok and
the red heat switch(and concurrently the digital temperature
display) do not illuminate when engaged,disconnect the
power cord and remove the right side housing as explained
previously.Examine all wires and connectors for the heat
system to see if any wires are disconnected,broken or
shorting out.If disconnected,re-connect exactly as shown in
wiring schematic.If broken or shorted out,replace with new
exactly as shown in schematic.If the heat switch(and digital
display) do not illuminate when engaged and there is still no
heat,with a multimeter check the continuity of the heat
switch by putting your multimeter probes on terminals 5 and
6(the two innermost terminals)of the heat switch(with their
two respective wire connectors disconnected) then,with the
power supply disconnected,engage the heat switch.If there
is no continuity reading,the switch is bad.Replace the
switch(currently part # PRS311)and rewire exactly as shown
in the schematic.
With the heat switch(and digital display) functional and
engaged,if there is still no heat or one heat shoe heats and
the other does not,using the multimeter check the continuity
of the heaters by putting your multimeter probes on the wire
leads of the top heater, then the bottom heater.If there is no
continuity reading for the respective heater being tested,that
heater is bad and should be replaced(part # PRH147)and

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rewired exactly as shown in the schematic.If there is still no
heat,call a servicing dealer/technician,the Ledco service
dept. or continue on to the advanced trouble shooting level.
As mentioned in the previous troubleshooting level,if you
have heat and no digital display read out,chances are
(provided all the respective wires and connectors check out
OK)the digital read out is faulty and should be replaced with
a new display from part # PRH130 heat control replacement
kit.Gently disconnect the plastic wire harness from its
receptacle on the back of the display by depressing the
small tab on the harness,then unscrew the three plastic
acorn nuts from the back of the display board to remove.Re-
install the new display in the exact reverse sequence.The
display should now be operational.If not,the problem lies in
either the ribbon cable or the heat control and you should
now consult a servicing dealer/tech,the Ledco service dept
or move on to the next,Advanced,level of troubleshooting,
diagnostics and repair.
3)Advanced.With all of the previously mentioned
components checked and operational,if there is still no
heat,and specifically no heat with a digital display showing
three dashes(- - -),use a multimeter to check resistance on
the (disconnected)heat sensor wires.The sensor will have
an approximate resistance of 1.089 ohms at room
temperature.If the sensor has no resistance(or reads open
line or circuit)it is bad and should be replaced(part #
PRC212S) and rewired exactly as shown in schematic.To
remove the heat sensor from the heat shoe,first disconnect
the top heater wires and heat sensor wires from their
respective terminals.Loosen the small thumbscrews that

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secure the heat shoes to the inside side panels near the
feed tray.Next,using a 9/64 allen wrench,loosen and remove
the two cap head screws and sleeves that secure the heat
shoe through the side panel near the center of the machine.
Cut the small white wire tie that secures the heater and heat
sensor wires to the side panel(they are covered with
black,heat shrink tubing).Now you can carefully lift out the
top heat shoe/threading guide/idler assembly to gain greater
access to the individual components.Using a phillips head
screw driver, remove the four flat head screws(and phenolic
spacers) that secure the heat shoe to the left and right heat
shoe brackets.This will allow you to swing the heat shoe
free to take a 5/64 allen wrench and loosen the set screw
that secures the heat sensor and bullet to the inside of the
heat shoe.This set screw is located in the center of the back
of the heat shoe,in line with the round head phillips screws
that hold the rubber roll heater in place.Extract the faulty
heat sensor/bullet from the inside of the shoe and replace
with new(part #’s PRC212S and 4285 061.4).Reassemble in
exact reverse sequence,rewire exactly as shown in the
schematic.Heat system should now be operational.
If not,the ribbon cable and heat control board are the only
components left to test and/or replace.Since there is no
easy way to accurately test the ribbon cable,your best bet is
to just replace it.Logically this will rectify any ribbon cable-
related problems.To replace the ribbon cable,and to gain
total access to the heat control board for testing and/or
replacement,the bottom motor cover must be removed.
With both housings removed,place the machine upside
down on your work bench.Using a phillips head screw

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driver,remove the five self tapping screws that secure the
bottom motor cover to the front motor cover.
Remove the two flat head and two round head screws that
secure the bottom motor cover to the right and left hand side
panels.Carefully pull back the bottom motor cover enough to
gain access to the components within.You may find it
necessary to disconnect the leads to the power cord
receptacle and fuse holder to completely remove the bottom
motor cover.Make careful note of these connections as to
re-connect them correctly later.Once you have gained
adequate access to the heat control board,you can now
remove and replace the ribbon cable(it disconnects from the
control board the same as from the digital display board
explained previously).
Now we can test the heat control board.Disconnect all the
wire leads from their respective terminals(make note of their
locations to ensure proper re-connection later).Using a multi
meter set to k ohms,put one probe on terminal T4(common)
and the other probe on terminal T1(208 v).You should get a
reading of approximately .910 kohms at room temperature.
If it shows open(infinite) or closed (no resistance) the board
is faulty and should be replaced.
Next with a probe on T4 again and the other on T2(240v),
you should get a reading of approximately .765 kohms at
room temp.Again,if it shows an open or closed reading the
board is faulty and should be replaced.
With one probe still on T4 and the other on T3 you should
get a reading of approximately .410 kohms at room temp.If
it shows open or closed,the board is faulty and should be
replaced.

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The next heat control board test involves putting the
probes on terminals T10 and T11(the heat sensor terminals)
and checking for approximately 32.9 kohms resistance.If it
reads open or closed circuit,the board has failed and should
be replaced.Note,a closed circuit reading would result in
uncontrollable,runaway heat.We will address that in the next
section.
Lastly,with the multimeter probes on terminals T6 and T7
and with no power to the board,there should be an open
circuit reading.Once you power it up it will close the circuit
(the relay) and remain closed until the temperature set point
has been reached and the circuit opens again.If,with no
power to the board,you get a closed circuit reading,the relay
has failed and the board will have to be replaced.Incidentally
this condition of a failed heat control board relay will most
likely result in runaway,uncontrollable heat,which leads us to
the next part of the heat system trouble shooting section….
B.UNCONTROLLABLE OR RUNAWAY HEAT
1) Basic.One of the most commonly asked questions is
“why is the film melting when the temperature is only
reading around 250 degrees?”Well,the answer may be as
simple as making sure your heat control is set on “F” for
farenheit,and not “C” for celsius.Power up the laminator and
engage the red heat switch.The digital display will show the
actual,present temperature.Now press and hold the small
blue temperature adjustment button for five seconds.This
will then show “F” or “C” on the display.Press the blue
button to toggle between “F” and “C”.Set it to “F” and leave
it.After five seconds the display will return to the actual
present temperature.The heat control can now be adjusted

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to the desired set point as described in section 5-1 of the
operation manual.
If after making sure the heat control has been set for
farenheit and uncontrollable,runaway heat persists,you
should now consult your dealer,a servicing dealer tech,the
Ledco service dept.,or move on to the next,Intermediate,
troubleshooting level.
2)Intermediate/Advanced.Disconnect the power cord
and remove the the right side housing as described
previously.Visually examine all wires for the heat system for
disconnected,broken or shorted-out wires.Pay particular
attention to the heat sensor wires.Re-connect or replace any
disconnected or broken/shorted wires and rewire them
exactly as shown in schematic.If symptoms persist,using a
multimeter check the heat sensor wires(you will have to
remove the bottom,back motor cover as instructed in the
previous section to gain access to the heat control board
and wiring thereof)with at least one wire disconnected from
its heat board terminal.As noted before,a fuctional heat
sensor reads 1.089 ohms resistance at room temperature,
an open reading means there would be no heat and a
closed reading(dead short)results in runaway,uncontrollable
heat.Either open or closed readings indicate heat sensor
failure and require replacement of the PRC212S heat
sensor and 4285 061.4 bullet and rewiring exactly as shown
in schematic.
Next,using your multimeter,check terminals T10 andT11
on the heat control board(the terminals for the heat sensor
wires).As described in the previous section,you should get a
reading of approximately 32.9 kohms resistance.An open or

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closed(resulting in runaway heat)reading means the control
board is faulty.Replace and rewire exactly as shown in the
schematic.
Finally,as explained in the last paragraph of the previous
section,using a multimeter,check terminals T6 andT7 on the
heat control board with their respective wires disconnected.
With the multimeter probes on these terminals and no power
to the board there should be an open circuit reading.Once
you power it up,it will close the circuit(the relay)and remain
closed until the temperature set point has been reached and
the circuit opens again.If,with no power to the board,you get
a closed reading(which would result in the relay staying
closed under power and subsequent overheating)the board
has failed and must be replaced and wired exactly as shown
in the schematic.
*Any questions as to the terms,procedures or references used in this guide,please call the Ledco service
dept. @ 800-937-9697
SECTION 3:TROUBLESHOOTING THE DRIVE SYSTEM
When troubleshooting the drive system,problems usually
fall under two descriptions;A)no drive,or B) intermittent drive
accompanied by strange clunking/ skipping or grinding
sounds.
A)NO DRIVE
1)Basic.Make sure the power cord is plugged in securely
to an appropriate power outlet,and completely inserted into
the receptacle at the back of the laminator.
Flip the switch labeled Forward/Reverse to the upper “I”,

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forward position.It should turn the drive motor on.If
not,disconnect the power cord and using a small straight
blade screwdriver,gently pop out the spring loaded fuse
holder and fuse from the rear of the machine next to the
power cord receptacle.Visually examine the ¾ amp fuse to
see if the fuse has failed.If the fuse has failed it will look
discolored and the element inside broken.Replace with a
new 3/4 amp fuse(always replace fuses with exactly the
same rated fuse).The drive system should now be
operational.
If the drive motor sounds like it is operational and there is
still no drive (make sure the rubber rollers are in the down,
engaged position using the cam shaft knob),disconnect the
power the cord and remove the left hand plastic housing in
the same manner as the right side as described in the
previous section.Visually check the drive chain to make sure
it is secure.If the chain is not connected,reconnect the chain
at the connecting link.If the connecting link is missing or
damaged,call your dealer or Ledco for a replacement link
(part # PRC 084),reconnect and re-install the chain,and the
drive system should be operational.
Next,move on to visually checking all sprockets to make
sure they are tight to their respective shafts.If loose,use a
1/8” allen wrench to tighten the set screws in the sprockets,
making sure the set screw tightens on the flat surface of its
respective shaft.Also be sure the sprockets are positioned
for proper chain alignment(13/16” from the side panel to the
center of the chain.)With the chain properly connected and
the spockets securely tightened to their shafts,the drive
system should now be operational.If not,you should now
consult with your dealer,a sevicing dealer/technician,the

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Ledco service dept.,or move on to the next,Intermediate,
troubleshooting level.
2)Intermediate.Disconnect the power cord and remove
the right side housing per previous instructions.Using a
multimeter,check the continuity of Forward/Reverse drive
switch by first identifying the row of three terminals closest
to you,putting the probes on the middle(common) terminal
and the lower terminal,and engaging the switch to the
forward position.If there is no continuity,the the switch is bad
and should be replaced(part # PRS 005)and rewired
exactly as shown in the schematic.Similarly,putting the
probes on the center terminal and upper terminal of the heat
switch and manually engaging the reverse jog,no continuity
indicates switch failure.Replace and rewire per the
schematic.The drive system should now be operational.
If the drive system is still non-operational,you should now
check the speed dial potentiometer located directly above
the digital heat display on the right side housing.First
visually check for any disconnected or broken wires coming
from the back of the potentiometer to any of it’s subsequent
connections.Re-connect or replace and rewire as shown in
the schematic.Now,using a multimeter,put the probes on the
grey and brown leads from the potentiometer respectively.
With the pot set at zero on the dial (all the way counter
clockwise)you should get a resistance reading of
approximately 10.00 kohms,gradually decreasing in
resistance as you increase the speed dial(turn clockwise) to
wide open.At the wide open setting,you should get a
resistance reading of close to 00.0 ohms.If your meter
shows an open or closed circuit or if there is resistance but

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does not change when rotating the potentiomer,the
potentiometer is faulty and should be replaced and rewired
per the schematic.When requesting a replacement,contact
the Ledco service dept and refer to the potentiometer for
part # PRM219 motor speed control.The motor drive should
then be restored.If not,you should now consult a servicing
dealer/technician,the Ledco service dept. or proceed to the
next,Advanced,troubleshooting level.
3)Advanced.After all previous checkpoints have been
confirmed and there is still no drive,the motor control board
and/or the drive motor now must be checked.Disconnect the
power cord and remove the right side plastic housing.Locate
the drive forward/reverse switch.Trace the two center
terminal lead wires from the switch to their respective
connectors to the black and red drive motor lead wires.
Place your multimeter probes inside the connectors,set at
volts DC.Now connect the power cord to the laminator and
engage the forward drive switch.With the potentiometer at
the lowest setting,you should get between 0 to10 volts on
the meter.With the potentiometer set at it’s highest,100%,
you should get between 90 to 96 volts.If no voltage is
present,and you have already checked the switch and
potentiometer for integrity,the motor control board(part #
PRM219) is faulty and should be replaced.If the prescribed
range of voltage is present and there is still no motor drive,
the drive motor(part # PRM220) is faulty and it should be
replaced.
To replace these parts you must remove the bottom
motor cover to gain access to the motor control board and
the motor as described in SECTION 2,A-3

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Once gaining access to the motor compartment,visually
check all components and wiring for loose connections,
broken or shorted wires,etc.Replace and/or rewire exactly
as shown in the schematic.
To replace the motor control,first gently disconnect the
plastic wiring harness from it’s terminals,making note of it’s
positioning on the terminals for proper reconnection
later.Using a small phillips head screwdriver and a small
adjustable wrench,remove the two 6-32 x 3/8 screws and
nuts that secure the board to the front motor cover.Replace
the faulty board with new,secure it in place with the screws
and nuts,re-connect the plastic wiring harness (and any
other wiring that needs to be re-connected)and re-assemble
the bottom motor cover.The drive system should now be
operational.
To replace the drive motor,using a 1/8” allen wrench,
loosen the set screws in the motor sprocket(part #
PRS253A),the pull roll sprocket(PRS249),and the laminating
roll sprocket(PRS251). Carefully remove the sprockets and
drive chain making note of their order and positions for
exact re-installation later.Now disconnect the two motor wire
leads from their quick-connects.Using a phillips head
screwdriver,remove the two bottom motor mounting screws
(10-32 x ½” FHMS),then using a 1/8” allen wrench,remove
the two top motor mounting screws(10-32 x ½” button head
cap screws).Carefully remove the faulty motor and replace
with new.Secure with mounting screws,reconnect the wire
leads,re-install the sprockets(in the exact order and position
as removed),re-assemble the motor cover(reconnecting any
other wiring before hand).The drive system should now be
operational.

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If the drive system is still not operational,the unit should
now be used as a boat anchor.
****Remember when re-assembling the components of the
laminator after servicing or repair,it is imperative that you do
so in the exact reverse sequence as you disassembled the
unit.This is especially true of the sprocket placement and
positioning(the rear,pull roll sprocket will always have one
less tooth than the front ,laminating roll sprocket to create a
slight overdrive that keeps the laminating film flat and taut
as it passes from the front rolls,over the cooling fan,thru the
back rolls and out the rear of the machine.With the sprocket
order reversed,the film will exhibit a crumpled,accordian like
appearance).
B)INTERMITTENT DRIVE(sometimes accompanied by a
clunking or skipping/grinding noise)
1)Basic.Disconnect power cord and remove left hand
plastic housing as described previously.Visually check
chain,sprockets and gears for integrity.Replace any broken
or missing chain components(see SECTION 3,A-1).Tighten
any loose sprockets or replace them if any teeth are broken
or excessively worn(see SECTION 3,A-3).Also visually
inspect the 4 rubber roll gears(part # PRG131) and replace
any that are broken or excessively worn(refer to the
disassembly instructions in previous section level 3 to
remove the sprockets,then using clip ring pliers remove and
replace faulty rubber roll gears).You may prefer to call your
dealer,a servicing dealer/tech or the Ledco sevice dept to
assist.
If,after making sure that chain,sprockets and gears are
secure and functioning correctly,there is still intermittent

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drive and or a clunking/grinding noise,visually inspect the
rubber rollers for any film wrap around or any other foreign
objects caught in the rolls or any other part of the drive
system.Carefully remove foreign object(s) and/or correct the
wrap around by referring to section 5-6,Preventing and
Solving Problems,and section 7-4 Cleaning The Rubber
Rollers,in your owners operators manual.If intermittent or
noisey drive persists,call your dealer,a servicing dealer/
technician,the Ledco service dept. or proceed to the
next,Intermediate,trouble shooting level.
2)Intermediate.If a film wrap around is so severe that it
can’t be cleared using the reverse jog method described in
section 5-8 of the owners manual,and is still causing
intermittent,clunking drive,it may be necessary remove the
chain,sprockets and gears from the drive side to allow
unrestricted rotation of the rolls.See SECTION 3,A-3 for
procedure.You should now be able to create a loose end of
film with which to pull free the entire wrap around.If you
need better access to the bottom,rear pull roller,remove the
bottom motor cover as instructed in SECTION 2,A-3.To gain
greater access to the bottom,front laminating roll,use a 5/32
allen wrench to remove the cap head screws that secure the
bottom heat shoe through the side panels.You can then
swing the bottom heat shoe away(or disconnect the heater
leads from the terminal block and totally remove the heat
shoe)for better access.
You should now be able to free up the wrap around,
reassemble all the components and resume operation of the
laminator.However,if the wrap around is a big melted mess,

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and you cannot clear it using these methods,or if the rubber
roll(s) has been damaged or rendered unusable,the roll(s)
should be removed and replaced.you should now consult
your servicing dealer/tech,the Ledco service dept or move
on to the next,Advanced level of troubleshooting/repair.
3)Advanced.To remove the rubber rolls(part # 0500-
040.4)and manually free them of wrapped or melted film,or
replace them if they are damaged or unusable, you must
first remove the drive chain,sprocket and rubber roll gears
as described at length previously.Next,using a 1/8”allen
wrench loosen and remove the two ½” shaft collars securing
the top front and rear rollers on the right hand side.Next,
using a 3/16 allen wrench loosen and remove the pressure
bolts and orange pressure springs(part # LC25 031.4)
from the bottom bearing supports(part # 4285 028.4) and
top bearing supports(part # 4285 030.4B).Now,using a 9/64”
allen wrench and a phillips head screwdriver,remove the
cap head screws and button head phillips screws and
stainless steel spacers that hold the top bearing support
cam spring support bar and roller bearing assemblies in
place.You can now slide these top assemblies off the ends
of their respective shafts allowing you to remove the top,
front laminating roller and the top,rear pull roller.Then using
a phillips head screw driver,remove the flat head phillips
screws that secure the bottom bearing supports to the side
panels and slide them off their respective shaft ends.All four
rubber rollers can now be removed and replaced or
exchanged as needed, and reassembled in precisely the
reverse sequence of dis-assembly.The drive system should
now operate smoothlywith no clunking or excessive noises.

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***IMPORTANT NOTE***
When re-installing the rubber roll pressure springs,the
optimal measurement setting for the springs is 31/32”
If after meeting all of the afore mentioned sequential
troubleshooting criteria,a grinding noise persists,chances
are the drive motor gearbox has failed.As the gearbox is an
integral part of the drive motor itself(part # PRM220),the
drive motor should then be removed(see SECTION 3,A-3)
replaced,and rewired exactly as shown in the schematic.
The drive system should now be perfectly functional.
SECTION 4:TROUBLESHOOTING WEB TENSION
(wrinkling,waviness)ROLL PRESSURE(steering,
uncontrollable wrinkling),AND ADHESION(peeling,not
sticking)PROBLEMS
1) Basic.The majority of web(film)tension or wrinkling
problems and adhesion problems are covered in the owners
manual.Please refer to section 5-8,Preventing and Solving
Problems,for answers to basic questions concerning
wrinkling and non-adhesion.
If,after consulting the owners manual,wrinkling problems
persist,visually examine the supply roll assembly(part #
0500-002.5 top and bottom).Check to see if the brass
supply roll dog located in the center of the supply roll is
missing or loose.If missing,replace it(part # 0285-015.4),call
your dealer or Ledco for the part.If its loose,using a phillips
head screwdriver,tighten the 6-32x3/16 round head screw
that secures the dog to the mandrel.If wrinkling persists,
visually check the hex adaptor(part # 0285-023.4)at the end

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opposite the black supply roll knob on the supply roll
assemblies.The small spring pin that holds the hex adaptor
in place may have sheared,making it impossible to get any
tension on the supply roll mandrel.If so,it’s best just to call
your dealer or Ledco and replace the whole supply roll
assembly.Tension adjustment will then be restored and
wrinkling eliminated.If after following these troubleshooting
tips and following the basic procedures spelled out in the
owners operation manual you are still experiencing
excessive wrinkling(especially if more pronounced on one
side or the other),the problem may be more rubber roll
pressure related and you should now contact your dealer,a
servicing dealer/technician,the Ledco service dept. or move
onto the next,Intermediate, troubleshooting level.
Waviness in a laminated piece is usually a symptom of to
much heat,running the prints to slow or not using the cooling
fans.As the operation manual points out,the cooling fans
should be used when laminating any film over 1.5 mil thick.
Simply engage the fan switch before running the print
through the laminator.If the fan switch doesn’t light up or if
one or more of the fans fails to rotatate upon engaging the
switch,consult your dealer to check the switch and/or the
fans and wiring thereof.Or you can proceed to the next,
Intermediate troubleshooting level.
2)Intermediate.When troubleshooting excessive wrinkling
and/or steering problems,uneven or inadequate rubber roll
pressure may be the culprit.In order to determine this,one
must become familiar with the “dwell line’.The dwell line is
the imprint,or footprint,that the two front,laminating rubber
rollers leave in the web of threaded and heated laminating
film.To measure a dwell line,thread the laminator with some

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good quality film and bring it up to optimal operating
temperature(consult the owners manual or your film supplier
for this).Once up to temperature,run off a short length of film
then stop the drive,letting the rolls set idle on the film for at
least 90 seconds.Now advance the film 8 to12 inches and
look for the impression the laminating rollers left in the film.It
will be two lines running parallel the full width of the film,
measuring approximately 3/16 to ¼ inch in width.If the dwell
line is much wider on one side than the other,this means the
rubber roll pressure is not adjusted correctly,contributing to
wrinkling problems.With a very narrow or thin dwell line the
rubber roll pressure may not be great enough to grip and
pull the film taut ,resulting in wrinkles in the web that won’t
clear regardless of how much supply roll tension you use.
Conversely,a wider,thicker(over ¼ inch)dwell line indicates
too much supply roll pressure resulting in steering or shifting
of the web towards the path of least resistance,adding to the
wrinkling in the area with less pressure.If the dwell line has
an hour glass appearance(wider,thicker on both ends and
much thinner,narrower in the middle)there is too much
rubber roll pressure on both ends or the rubber rolls are
worn excessively.
In any of these situations,the rubber roll pressure needs to
be adjusted properly as noted in Section 3,B-3.In brief
review,the optimal measurement setting for the rubber roll
pressure springs is 31/32”.This will bring you back to factory
specs and alleviate any wrinkling or steering problems
associated with improper rubber roll pressure.
To troubleshoot the fan system(responsible for proper
cooling of the lamination and alleviation of excessive
waviness)first check the fan switch.If it does not illuminate