Lyon TX6 User manual

THE INCUBATOR SECTIONS
The incubator consists of five sections; the
dome assembly, the egg turning ring
assembly, the screen, the base plate and the
water fountain.
An efficient egg hatching machine is formed
when the five sections are properly mated
together.
The incubator is pre-assembled at the factory.
This information is provided for reference.
ASSEMBLING THE INCUBATOR
Assemble the turning ring. Remove the plastic
film from the strap. Hold the plastic strap with
notched side UP and insert the spokes of the
turning ring into the strap until it completely
surrounds the turning ring. Fasten the ring using
the brads and washers supplied, form the
assembly into a circle. Now mount the
thermometer/hygrometer assembly. To
assemble, carefully follow instructions attached
to your assembly packet. Units shown on this
page show the TX-6 carded thermometer/
hygrometer assembly.
Before the screen and turning ring are positioned
on the base, these two parts should be held
together with the wick through the center hole in
the screen and pulled out full length below. With
the screen and turning ring against each other
and the wick dangling below, place the assembly
on the base with the wick extending toward the
water fountain socket and laying through the two
slots in the water segments of the base. The
wick must extend in the base toward the fountain
in order to be wet immediately when water is
introduced into the first segment adjacent to the
fountain
Fit the four holes in the screen over the
extrusions on the base and press into place.
When the dome is set on the base, notice
that the screws through the wall engage in
slots in the top of the plastic turning ring strap.
These screws project inside through the dome
from the two knobs outside. Proper seating
of the screws in the turning ring strap will put
the dome in gear with the turning ring
assembly, and thereafter rotating the dome
on the base plate will cause the egg turning
ring to move also. See the drawing below.
When eggs are in the incubator, they will be
positioned between the spokes of the turning
frame and will be rolled over when the dome
is turned on the base. Rotating the dome from
the outside moves the egg turning ring inside
and turns the eggs over. This is another
advantage of the Turn-X system. . . to turn
the eggs without opening the incubator.
Bulletin 281-161/AT3 Page Two
Turning ring and strap assem-
bly has been pre-assembled at
Lyon.
The base
plate, fountain,
screen, turning ring
and thermometers
assembled together .
The
Positioning the
screen and
turning ring
on the base.
The Chicken egg
18-place turning ring
is shown.

GETTING THE INCUBATOR READY
With the incubator sections correctly
assembled as per the foregoing
explanations, and being sure that the
wick is laying under the screen through
two slots in the base and is extended
outward toward the fountain, plug the
electrical cord into a wall socket. The
fan will begin spinning and the heater
will come on, indicated by the small
light.
TEMPERATURE REGULATION
The incubator was regulated before it
was shipped to you. Due to handling in
shipment, it may require further
adjustment. Watch the thermometer as
the temperature builds up. The indicator
light should go off at 100°F.
After that, the light will go on and off at
short intervals. This on and off of the
indicator light and a constant
thermometer reading of100°F indicate
the thermostat is controlling the heat.
The thermometers should be inspected
many times for several days to be sure
the temperature is fully stabilized.
TX-6 TEMPERATURE ADJUSTMENT:
The TX-6 has a solid state temperature
control. The regulator shaft protrudes
through the dome above the thermostat
board. Turning the shaft CLOCKWISE
will increase the heat, turning the shaft
COUNTERCLOCKWISE will lower the
heat. In regulating the thermostat, turn
the shaft slowly and carefully.
TX-7 TEMPERATURE ADJUSTMENT:
The TX-7 has a 10 turn solid state
temperature control. This control is
designed to operate the incubator in a
range of 80 to 106°F. Each 360 turn of
the control covers a range of
approximately 2 - 3°F for precise
temperature setting.
When tested at the factory, the control
was set at 100°F. To LOWER the
Temperature turn the control knob to the
LEFT and to INCREASE the
temperature turn the knob to the RIGHT.
Remember that a COMPLETE 360
TURN of the potentiometer covers only
3°F. Make small adjustments to the
temperature desired.
REGULATE THE INCUBATOR AT:
100°F for temperature and 86°F(wet
bulb) for humidity (for chicken eggs).
HUMIDITY REGULATION
With the nut on the neck screwed against the
body of the fountain, fill the fountain with water.
Place a finger over spout to prevent spilling
and invert the fountain over the socket on the
base. Remove the finger and quickly slide the
spout to the bottom of the socket. Water will
immediately gurgle into the base segment
adjacent to the fountain. Capillary attraction
will soon wet the entire wick up to the
thermometer, after which the wet bulb will
register humidity. With the fountain in place
and the incubator running at100°F, humidity
may stabilize inside the incubator in about five
minutes. A humidity reading may then be
made. Unless the incubator is in a very humid
climate adjustment to increase the humidity
will be needed. With the fountain remaining
in place in the socket on the base, more water
is introduced into the base by holding the nut
on the fountain neck and turning the fountain
counterclockwise a half turn. Read the wet
bulb again and adjust the fountain upward
again if it is needed. Continue to adjust the
fountain upward in slow steps until the reading
of 86°F is obtained.
Humidity accumulates in the incubator from
evaporation in direct proportion to the
surface area of water in the base. Each
counterclockwise half turn elevates the
fountain 1/16 inch and causes water to run
into another cup Segment of the base. Dry
climates require water in more cups than
humid climates. Continually elevating the
fountain will eventually run water into all
seventeen cups. The object in humidity
regulation is to determine what the elevation
of the fountain and the number of cups with
water should be for your climate. Watching
the wet bulb thermometer while elevating
the fountain half a turn at 3 to 5 minute
intervals will eventually produce the desired
reading of 86°F.
If hard, mineralized water is used, the wick
may become clogged in a number of days,
before this happens, you will have arrived
at a satisfactory adjustment. Before each
hatch, a new wick may be installed or the
old one may be removed and washed to
remove the materials that may have
stiffened it. The use of distilled water in the
fountain will largely eliminate the problem
of mineral clogged wicks.
WHY EGGS ARE TURNED
It is necessary to turn incubating eggs for
the very same reason a person turns himself
while sleeping. That is, to relieve the
pressure that restricts the nerves and
impairs circulation. The mother hen on the
nest instinctively beaks and turns the eggs
at intervals Developing embryos in the
eggs will not grow in vigor and strength
unless they are turned at regular intervals.
Lack of turning may cause chicks to have
paralyzed feet, crooked toes or to be so
weakened as not to be able to escape the
confines of the shell at hatching time. Any
interval of turning longer than three or four
hours gets declining results according to
scientific studies. The longer the wait after
four hours, the weaker the chicks may be.
POINT EGGS TO CENTER
Eggs are set in the turning ring with the
small ends pointing to the center.
THE DEGREE OF TURNING
Ideally, eggs would be turned 180 degrees.
That is, the side that is up before the eggs
are turned will be down after they are
turned. Generally, however, varying sizes
of eggs cause some to be rolled more than
others. With automatic turning when the
eggs are moved once an hour, experience
shows that it makes little difference if
some eggs are turned more and others
less.
Bulletin 281-161/AT3 Page Three

TECHNOLOGIES, INC.
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