Mod The Ring Resonator User manual

1Copyright © 2016 by modkitsdiy.com
Use these instructions to learn:
How to build an effects pedal for octave fuzz.
The Ring Resonator is an octave up fuzz effect that is an all analog design that captures those late 60's
octave up fuzz tones. Transformer coupled germanium diodes produce sounds that range from a subtle
octave up to thick, harmonically rich sonic textures, and synth like tones. Experimenting with different
pickups and tone control settings on your guitar with the Ring Resonator can also produce sitar like sounds.
THE RING RESONATOR (K-975)
Warning: This circuit was designed for use with a 9 VDC power supply only.
TO
AMP
IN
FROM
GUITAR
OUT
Unplug when not in use
to save battery life.
The Ring Resonator
Modkitsdiy.com
OUTPUT BOOST
An Octave Up Fuzz
9 VDC
CENTER (-)
ADAPTER

TABLE OF CONTENTS
TOOL LIST ……………………………………………………………………………………….2
PARTS LIST DRAWINGS……………………………………………………………………...3, 4
FINAL ASSEMBLY REFERENCE DRAWING…………………………………………………..5
SOLDERING TIPS ……………………………………………………………………………….6
STEP BY STEP ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS …………………………………………..7 - 10
Section 1 – Mount Large Components ………………………………………………….7
Section 2 – Wire Large Components ……………………………………………………….7
Section 3 – Mount Components to Terminal Strips ………..……………………………..8
Section 4 – Finishing Up ......……………………………………………………………10
ASSEMBLY DRAWINGS (4 Drawings) ……………………………………………..11, 12
These are the last 2 pages. They should be separated and used as a reference to help assemble the
kit correctly.
2
Visit www.modkitsdiy.com if you have any problems when first turning on your pedal for
troubleshooting help. Remember to use caution when applying power to the pedal to avoid electric
shock.
TOOL LIST
Wire Strippers
Needle Nose Pliers
Cutting Pliers
Desoldering Pump
Solder (60/40 rosin core)
Soldering Station
Phillips Head Screwdrivers
Slotted tip screwdrivers (3 mm tip)
Channellock Pliers (or similar type)
Ruler
Hobby Vise (or other means to secure box while working)

Enclosure
P-H1590BBCE-W (1)
Mini Chicken Head Knob
P-K900R (2)
Battery Clip
S-H155 (1)
¼” Mono Jack (Output Jack)
W-SC-11-T (1)
¼” Stereo Jack (Input Jack)
W-SC-12B (1)
Stranded Wire (22 AWG) - Red
K-PUL1569 (3 FT)
PARTS LIST 1
3
RING LUG
SLEEVE LUG
TIP LUG
GROUND LUG
TIP LUG
DPDT Foot Switch
P-H498 (1)
Potentiometers: 1KL and 500KA
R-VA1KL (1)
1
2
3
R-VA500KA (1)
#4 Screw (3/8" long)
S-HS440-38 (7)
#4 Nut
S-HHN440 (7)
#4 Lock Washer
S-HLW4 (7)
Terminal Strip with 8 Terminals
P-0802H (2)
DC Power Jack
S-H750 (1)
Terminal Strip with 3 Terminals
P-0301H (1)
Terminal Strip with 5 Terminals
P-0501H (2)

PARTS LIST 2
4
0.001µF Capacitor 100V
C-PEID001-100 (1)
Audio Transformer (1.5K : 600 Ω)
P-T42TM022 (1)
P-Q2N5088 (2)
NPN BJT (2N5088)
2N
5088
E B C
K-PQ-2N3906 (1)
PNP BJT (2N3906)
2N
3906
EBC
C-ET100-25-IL (2)
100µF Polarized Capacitor 25V
100µF 25V
P-Q972 (2)
Germanium Diode (1N34A)
33µF 50V
C-ET33-50 (2)
33µF Polarized Capacitor 50V
150
500V
150pFCapacitor 500V
C-SM150 (1)
0.1µF Capacitor 100V
C-PEID1-100 (1)
104J
102J
red
red
brown
gold
220
220Ω Resistor ½ W
R-A220 (1)
yellow
violet
brown
gold
470
470Ω Resistor ½ W
R-A470 (1)
brown
black
red
gold
1K
1kΩ Resistor ½ W
R-A1K (1)
brown
red
red
gold
1.2K
1.2kΩ Resistor ½ W
R-A1D2K (1)
red
red
orange
gold
22K
22kΩ Resistor ½ W
R-A22K (1)
yellow
violet
orange
gold
47K
47kΩ Resistor ½ W
R-A47K (1)
red
black
yellow
gold
200K
200kΩ Resistor ½ W
R-A200K (1)
red
red
yellow
gold
220K
220kΩ Resistor ½ W
R-A220K (1)
blue
gray
yellow
gold
680K
680kΩ Resistor ½ W
R-A680K (1)
gray
red
yellow
gold
820K
820kΩ Resistor ½ W
R-A820K (1)
brown
black
green
gold
1M
1MΩ Resistor ½ W
R-A1M (1)

FINAL ASSEMBLY REFERENCE DRAWING
This is a large version of the final assembly drawing. Refer to this drawing as you make your way through each step of the instructions. Before you make a new
connection at a particular terminal or solder lug, notice how many other connections will be made at that terminal. That way you can decide whether it’s best for
you to solder the connection and leave space open for future connections or hold off on soldering until after every connection at that location has been made.
5
2
3
1
6
5
4
1
2
31
2
3
1KL 500KA
1 8
9
15
16
19 20
22
2325
NC
NC
NC
NC
680K .1µ
1M
820K
33µF 50V
200K 220K
150p
220
2N
3906
E B C
Q1
1K
.001µ
22K
EBC
2N5088
Q2
1.2K
47K
100µF 25V
E
B
C
100µF 25V
470
Q3
“P”
2N5088
33µF 50V
red
black

SOLDERING TIPS
1. Bend the component lead
and wrap it around the
connection point.
2. Wrap the component lead
so that it can hold itself to the
connection point.
3. Heat up both component
lead and connection point with
the soldering iron.
4. Apply solder to both
component lead and
connection point.
2. Apply fresh solder to mix in
with old solder joint
1. Heat up old solder joint
with the soldering iron.
3. Use a de-soldering tool to
remove the old solder joint
while it is heated.
De-Soldering Tip
6
It is important to make a good solder joint at each connection point. A cold solder joint is a connection that
may look connected but is actually disconnected or intermittently connected. (A cold solder joint can keep
your project from working.)
Follow these tips to make a good solder joint. Take your time with each connection and make sure that all
components are connected and will remain connected if your project is bumped or shaken.
Bend the component lead or wire ending and wrap it around the connection point.
Make sure it is not too close to a neighboring component which could cause an
unintended connection.
2. Wrap the component lead so that it can hold itself to the connection point.
Touch the soldering iron to both the component lead and the connection point allowing both to
warm up just before applying the solder to them.
Be sure to adequately cover both component lead and connection point with melted solder.
Remove the soldering iron from your work and allow the solder joint to cool. (The
solder joint should be shiny and smooth after solidifying.)
Cut off any excess wire or component leads with cutting pliers.
Clean the soldering iron's tip by wiping it across the wet sponge again after making the
solder joint.

SECTION 1 – Mount Large Components
Stripping wire, tinning wire and soldering. Throughout these instructions you will be told to strip
and tin a length of wire numerous times. Unless noted otherwise, cut the wire to the length stated in
the instructions. Then strip ¼” of insulation off each end. Twist each end of the stranded wire, and
apply a small amount of solder to each end (i.e. tin the wire ends).
Please refer to DRAWING 1 and DRAWING 2.
Orient the enclosure with the two 5/16" holes on top.
Using the seven screws, nuts and lock washers provided, fasten the five terminal strips to match
DRAWING 2.
12
3
4 5
6 7
Fasten the two 5 lug
terminal strips and the 3
lug terminal strips first.
Then fasten the two 8
lug terminal strips.
Mount the 1KL pot in the 5/16" hole on the left and the 500KA pot in the
remaining 5/16" hole on the right.
Bend back and remove the alignment tab on the top of each potentiometer
using a pair of pliers before mounting the pots so that they can mount flush
against the enclosure surface.
Alignment
Tab
Mount the DC power jack in the 15/32" hole on the left
side of the enclosure. Orient its solder lugs so that
the center-pin lug is facing the bottom side of the
enclosure. CENTER-PIN LUG
POSITIVE-SWITCH LUG
POSITIVE LUG
Mount the input jack in the 3/8" hole on the left side of the enclosure with the hardware provided.
The washer goes under the nut on the outside of the enclosure. Make sure the center solder lug of
the input jack is facing up. Correct positioning of the jack makes soldering the connections easier.
Mount the output jack in the 3/8" hole on the right side of the enclosure. Make sure the two solder
lugs are in their most upright position before tightening the nut.
Mount the footswitch in the 15/32" hole in the center of the enclosure. The nylon washer goes
under the mounting nut on the outside of the enclosure. Then the lock washer mounts on the inside
between the enclosure surface and the other nut. Make sure that the footswitch is oriented to match
DRAWING 2.
SECTION 2 – Wire Large Components
Please refer to DRAWING 3.
Please note that each terminal has been numbered as
illustrated here and will be referred to as a “terminal #_” when
connecting different components and wires throughout the
assembly instructions.
7
12345678
9101112131415
16
17
18
19 20
21
22
NC
NC
NC
NC
232425
This will prevent the stranded wire from fraying and will make the
final soldering much easier.

Strip and tin a 2" piece of wire and connect Footswitch lug 5 to the output jack’s tip lug.
Strip and tin a 1 ½” piece of wire and connect Footswitch lugs 1 and 4.
Strip and tin a 2” piece of wire and connect Footswitch lug 2 to the input jack’s tip lug.
Strip and tin a 4" piece of wire and connect Footswitch lug 6 to the 500KA pot’s lug 2.
Strip and tin a 1 ½” piece of wire and connect it from the lower hole of
terminal #7 to the lower hole of terminal #12. (This allows for more
room when connecting components later in the instructions). lower holes
8
Strip and tin a 2 ½” piece of wire and connect it from the lower hole of terminal #2 to the lower
hole of terminal #6.
Strip and tin a 1 ¼” piece of wire and connect it from terminal #4 to the lower hole of terminal
#13. Do not solder the terminal #4 connection, yet.
Strip and tin a 2" piece of wire and connect it from terminal #4 to the
power jack’s positive lug. Leave room at #4 for the 200K resistor that
will mount to #3 and #4 later on.
CENTER-PIN LUG
POSITIVE LUG
Strip ¾” of insulation off the end of the wire spool, twist and tin it. When this tinned wire end
cools, cut off the bare portion of wire. (This will be used as a short jumper wire). Connect this
jumper from the power jack’s center-pin lug to terminal #1. Use the excess length of this jumper
to wrap around the connection points.
Strip and tin a 1 ¼” piece of wire and the 500KA pot’s lug 3 to terminal #9.
Strip and tin a 4" piece of wire and connect from the lower hole of terminal #14 to the lower hole
of terminal #20.
Strip and tin a 1 ¾” piece of wire and connect terminals #11 and #16.
Strip and tin a 1 ¼” piece of wire and connect terminals #22 and #25.
Strip and tin a 1 ½” piece of wire and connect terminal #18 to the 1KL pot’s lug 1. Do not solder
the terminal #18 connection, yet.
Strip and tin a 1 ½” piece of wire and connect terminals #18 and #19. Now solder the #18
connection.
Double check all of your connections at this point because it will be very difficult to make
corrections after the components are soldered into place.
SECTION 3 – Mount Components to Terminal Strips
Please refer to DRAWING 4.
Connect and solder all the following components to their respective terminals as listed. (Make sure
that none of the component leads are so close together that it could cause an unintended short).
Connect the 680K resistor to terminals #1 and #2.
Connect the 0.1µF cap to terminal #2 and Footswitch lug 3. Mount this cap upside down with its
leads facing up.
Connect the 1M resistor to footswitch lug 3 and the input jack’s ground lug.

9
Connect the 820K resistor to terminals #2 and #3. Push this component down slightly to allow
room for the next component. Do not solder the connection on terminal #3, yet.
Connect one of the 33µF caps to terminals #1 and #3. Make sure the
negative (-) end of the cap is connected to terminal #1. Do not solder
the connection on terminal #3, yet.
33µF 50V
negative end
Connect the 200K resistor to terminals #3 and #4. Solder the connections at #3, now.
Connect the 220K resistor to terminals #7 and #8.
Connect the 150pF cap to terminals #6 and #8. Push this cap down to allow room for the next
component.
Connect the 220 ohm resistor to terminals #7 and #10.
Connect the 2N3906 transistor to terminals #5, #6 and #7 as listed below. Do not solder the
terminal #5 connection, yet.
Terminals #5: Emitter
Terminals #6: Base
Terminals #7: Collector
2N
3906
EBC
2N
5088
Connect the 1K resistor to terminal #5 and #15. Now solder the #5 connection.
Connect the .001µF cap to terminals #9 and #10.
Connect the 22K resistor to terminals #9 and #11.
Connect one of the 2N5088 transistors to terminals #11, #12 and #13 as listed below.
Terminals #11: Emitter
Terminals #12: Base
Terminals #13: Collector
2N
5088
E B C
Connect the 1.2K resistor to terminals #13 and #14. Leave room on #14 for mounting Q3 later.
Connect the 47K resistor to terminals #14 and #15. Leave room on #14 for mounting Q3 later.
Connect the positive (+) end of a 100µF cap to terminal #15 and
the negative (-) end to both lugs 2 and 3 of the 1KL pot.
100µF 25V
negative end positive end
Connect the remaining 2N5088 transistor to terminals #14, #16 and #17 as listed below.
Terminals #14: Collector
Terminals #16: Base
Terminals #17: Emitter
2N
5088
E B C
Connect the 470 ohm resistor to terminals #17 and #19. (Remember that terminals #17 and #19
are three terminals apart from one another so make sure you connect correctly).

10
Connect the remaining 100µF cap to terminals #17 and #19.
Make sure the negative (-) end is connected to #19.
100µF 25V
negative end
Press the metal mounting tabs of the transformer inward so they are
flush with the bottom of the transformer. Now place the transformer
upside down in the enclosure in the area shown on DRAWING 4.
The side marked “P” should be facing the top side of the enclosure.
With the transformer resting upside down, insert its three leads facing the bottom side of the
enclosure through terminals #23, #24 and #25, but do not solder.
Only two of the three leads on the “P” side of the transformer will be used. Connect the lead on
the left side to terminal #18. Connect the lead on the right side to terminal #21.
Carefully clip off the remaining unused middle lead on the “P” side of the transformer and solder
the three transformer lead connections at terminals #23, #24 and #25.
Connect the remaining 33µF cap to terminals #20 and #21. Make sure the negative (-) end is
connected to #21.
Connect one of the 1N34A diodes to terminal #23 and the
500KA pot’s lug 1. Make sure the black (cathode) end
connects to the pot lug 1. Do not solder the Pot lug 1
connection, yet.
cathode endanode end
Connect the remaining 1N34A diode to terminal #22 and lug 1 of the 500KA pot (also with the
cathode end at lug 1). Now solder the connection at lug 1.
SECTION 4 – Finishing Up
Attach the knobs provided to the two potentiometer shafts. Install 9 volt battery, close cover using
screws provided. Plug guitar into input jack on right. This turns unit on. Plug cable into output jack
and plug into your amplifier.
Unplug from the input jack of the unit to turn it off and save power.
It’s always a good idea to thoroughly double-check your connections before applying power.
Locate the battery snap connector. Connect and solder the red lead
to the positive-switch lug of the power jack.
RING LUG
SLEEVE LUG
TIP LUG
Input Jack
Connect and solder the black lead of the battery snap
connector to the input jack’s ring lug.
POSITIVE-SWITCH LUG
mounting tabs

2
3
1
6
5
4
1
2
31
2
3
DRAWING 1
TOP
LEFT SIDE
RIGHT SIDE
INSIDE VIEW OF THE
ENCLOSURE
DRAWING 2
15/32"
1/8"
1/8" 1/8"
1/8"
1/8"1/8"
3/8"3/8"
15/32"
5/16"
5/16"
1/8"
1KL 500KA
11

DRAWING 3
DRAWING 4
2
3
1
6
5
4
1
2
31
2
3
1KL 500KA
18
9
15
16
19 20
22
2325
NC
NC
NC
NC
2
3
1
6
5
4
1
231
2
3
1KL 500KA
1 8
9
15
16
19 20
22
2325
NC
NC
NC
NC
680K .1µ
1M
820K
33µF 50V
200K 220K
150p
220
2N
3906
E B C
Q1
1K
.001µ
22K
EBC
2N
5088
Q2
1.2K
47K
100µF 25V
E
B
C
100µF 25V
470
Q3
“P”
2N
5088
33µF 50V
red
black
12