Morso 5660 Standard Insert User manual

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MORSØ JERNSTØBERI A/S . DK-7900 NYKØBING MORS
E-Mail: [e-mail] · Website: www.morsoe.com
Distributed by: MORSO US LLC
1011 Highway 52 West - Portland TN - 37148 - USA
Website: www.morsousa.com
Installation and Operating Instructions
5660 Standard Insert
For use in North America
Read this entire manual before you install and use your new room heater. If this room
heater is not properly installed, a house fire may result. To reduce the risk of fire, follow
the installation instructions. Failure to follow instructions may result in property damage,
bodily injury, or even death.
Contact local building officials about restrictions and installation/inspection-requirements
in your area.
Save these instructions

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We congratulate you on your choice of a Morsø stove. Morsø has
been producing some of the world’s best stoves since 1853. If you
follow this installation- and operating instruction carefully, we can
assure you many years of warmth and pleasure.
Optional Accessories
A wide range of accessories (such as handling gloves, fireside tools, glass cleaner and heatproof
paint) are available for use with your Morsø stove. They help with day-to-day running and
maintenance. Contact your Morsø dealer for more information.
The Morsø 5660 Standard Insert meets the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency’s emission
limits for wood heaters sold on or after July 1, 1990
The Morsø 5660 Standard Insert have been tested by OMNI-Test Laboratories, Inc. The test
standards are UL 1482-1998 for the United States and ULC S627-M93 for Canada.
The stove is listed for burning wood only. Do not burn other fuels.
Cast iron
Cast iron is a live material. There are no two ovens that are identical. This is partly due to the
tolerances of the casting process, partly because the ovens are a work of craftsmanship.

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CONTENTS:
1.0 Installation of your Morsø stove 4
1.1 The chimney / flue system 9
1.2 Flue Connection 10
1.3 Connection to existing chimney 10
1.4 Positioning the stove 12
2.0 Operation 15
2.1 Before you start firing 15
2.2 Lighting and loading intervals 16
3.0 Maintenance 18
3.1 Exterior maintenance 18
3.2 Internal maintenance 18
3.3 Cleaning the Stove and the Flue 20
3.4 Leaving the stove for extended periods 21
3.5 Parts diagram 22
3.6 Parts list 23

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Installation requirements vary in different districts, and the local building officials have the final
authorization to approve your installation. You should discuss the installation with them before
beginning. Please ask your dealer for further information.
1.0 Installation of your Morsø stove
Installation of woodburning stoves must be safe and legal.
If your Morsø stove is not installed correctly, it may cause a house fire. To reduce
the risk of fire, the installation instructions must be followed carefully. Contact the
local building officials about restrictions and installation inspection in your area.
Before you start installing your stove, make sure that:
- The stove and chimney connection are placed far enough from combustible materials to
meet all clearance requirements.
- The floor protection must be adequate and must be made correctly according to the re-
quirements.
All neccessary approvals are needed from the local building officials.
The data plate, which is located on the back of the stove, provides information regarding safety
testing information, name of certified testing laboratory, and installation requirements.
The figure above shows the required fireplace dimension required for the Morsø 5660 Stan-
dard insert.
It is easier to make adjustments to the masonry surrounding the insert, when the heavy cast
iron is not connected to the steel box. Use the steel box as a template for the masonry ad-
justments. Allow extra room for installation, especially above the insert.

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Minimum Masonry fireplace size
Height (A) Depth (B) Width (C)
Inches/mm. 21¼” / 540 mm 19¼” / 490 mm 28¾” / 730 mm
The stainless steel connector must be at least 8 feet in length.
The chimney must have a clay liner or a stainless steel liner.
Do not move bricks or mortar from the existing fireplace.
Remove or lock existing fireplace dampers in the open position.
The stainless steel chimney liner (flexible or rigid) is available from most specialty stove retailers.
The installation may be used with a factory built or mansonry fireplace. Be sure to fulfill all
requirements.

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Your Morsø 5660 Standard Insert is fully assembled when
you receive it. This ensures optimum protection during
transport.
However, in order to connect the stove to your chimney
installation, it is necessary to dismantle the stove’s flue
collar.
This may only be done by disassembling the combustion
chamber and take it out of the insert box.
The Morsø 5660 standard weighs 300 lbs. In order to avoid
damages when unpacking and installing the stove, it is
recommended that two persons carry out this task. Likewise,
it is advisable to use an underlay (cardboard, rug, or the like)
for placing parts during the installation.
Stove door
Firstly, dismount the stove door. Using the allen key
supplied, loosen the allen screws at each hinge pin and lift
up the two hinge pins, and dismount the door.
Note: The brass washer in the upper hinge is loose and must
be put in place again when remounting the door.
Frame
Detach the frame mounted on the insert box by unscrewing
it with the included Allen key.
Fireproof materials
Now take out the fireproof liners and insulation materials
from the combustion chamber in the following sequence:
Front bottom liner, rear bottom liner, the two side stones,
and the two liners at the rear wall. Finally, remove the
stone and the insulation mat over the baffle plate of the
combustion chamber.
Caution: The liners are very porous and must be handled
with great care.

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Baffle plate/secondary air supply
The baffle plate is mounted with four M8 bolts.
The baffle plate is heavy (30 lbs.), and therefore it
is difficult to hold it in place over the four threaded
holes.
For this reason, two guide bolts without heads are
included to facilitate the positioning.
The outermost bolts in each side are unscrewed.
The two guide bolts are now screwed so far into
the outermost holes in each side that the ends are
barely visible (this is necessary in order to bring the
baffle plate down).
Next, the two center bolts are unscrewed.
The baffle plate is now resting on the two guide
bolts.
The baffle plate is removed carefully.
Flue collar
The flue collar with the stop bar is unscrewed from
the stove.
The flue collar is connected to the flue pipe (8 feet
stainless steel connector) or the flexible pipe in your
fireplace/chimney.
A fireplace may be constructed in several ways.
If necessary, ask your chimney sweep about the
optimum connection between the insert and the
existing chimney installation.
The stove is now reassembled in the reverse order
of which it was disassembled.

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Combustion chamber
The combustion chamber is unscrewed from the
insert box (two M6 bolts).
Next, the combustion chamber is lifted out of the
insert box.
The positioning of the empty insert box in your
fireplace opening is now relatively easy.
Guide the flue pipe with the flue collar mounted on
down to the circular hole in the insert box.
The combustion chamber is lifted into the insert
box and fixed to the insert box with the two M6
bolts. The flue collar (now connected to the chimney
installation) with the spherical damper is fastened
to the combustion chamber.
The baffle plate is mounted over the two guide bolts.
Next, the two M8 center bolts are screwed in. The
two guide bolts are unscrewed, and the last two M8
bolts are inserted and screwed in.
Fireboxliners and fireproof materials are put back
in place in the following order: the two rear stones,
the two side stones, and the two bottom stones.
The fireproof insulation mat is carefully put in place
on top of the baffle plate. Finally, the last liner is
put back in place (in front, centered on the baffle
plate and slanted up towards the smoke exit hole).
Caution: The liners are very porous and must be
handled with great care.
The frame is screwed on again.
The stove door is repositioned on the hinges with
the hinge pins. Remember to put the brass washer
back in place on the upper hinge.

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1.1 The chimney / flue system
Note that the flue system must be independently secured and must not rely on the stove for
support.
The stove must not be connected to a chimney flue serving any other appliance.
(Several flues may run up a single chimney stack; use one flueway per appliance).
Use a residential type masonry or listed type HT factory-built chimney.
High Temperature (H.T.) Chimney Standard UL-103-1985 (2100º F.) for the USA, and
High Temperature (650ºC) Standard ULC S-629 for Canada.
The internal dimensions of the chimney connector and chimney must not be less than 6 inches
diameter (or equivalent cross section), and should not be significantly larger than this. Too
large a section will tend to allow the flue gases to cool excessively, causing sluggishness or
unpredictability in the stove’s performance.
We recommend the length of the chimney system should be at least 16 feet (not required) above
the stove in normal domestic situations, measured from the flue collar to the top of the chimney.
Local conditions like for example - roof constructions, large trees nearby and high altitude, may
influence the chimney draft and height. Therefore, contact the local professional chimney sweep or
your Morsø dealer.
Do not connect to any air distribution duct or system.
Important: If the installation instructions are not followed carefully, it may cause dan-
gerous situations like chimney - and house fires. Follow the instructions carefully and
do not deviate from them as it may cause injuries to people or property.

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.
Double-wall connectors must be tested and listed for use with solid-fuel burning appliances.
Single-wall connectors should be made of 24 gauge or heavier gauge steel. Do not use
galvanized connector; it cannot withstand the high-temperatures that smoke and exhaust
gases can reach, and may release toxic fumes under high heat. The connector must be 6 inches
(150mm) in diameter.
If possible, do not pass the chimney connector through a combustible wall or ceiling.
If passage through a combustible wall is unavoidable, refer to the sections on Wall
Pass - Throughs. Do not pass the connector through an attic, a closet or similar
concealed space when installing the chimney connectors.
It is important to keep the flue gases moving smoothly in the right direction. Do not vent into a
large void at this location; rather form one continuous section all the way up. Use mild bends
(e.g. 45º vs. 90º) rather than sharp angles where a change of direction is required. All parts of
the venting must be accessible for cleaning purposes.
In horizontal runs of chimney, maintain a distance of 18 inches from the ceiling. Keep it as
short and direct as possible, with no more than two 90 degree turns. Slope horizontal runs of
connector upward 1/4 inch per foot (20 mm per metre) going from the stove toward the chimney.
The recommended maximum length of a horizontal run is 3 feet (1 metre), and the total length
should be no longer than 8 feet (2.5 metres).
Information on assembling and installing connectors is provided by the manufacturer’s
instructions exactly as you assemble the connector and attach it to the stove and chimney.
Be sure the installed stove and chimney connector are correct distances from near by
combustible materials. See the clearance paragraph page 12.
1.2 Flue Connection
The stove is supplied from the factory with a flue collar fitted to the top plate.
The flue collar is from the factory prepared for fitting the enlosed 6 inche adapter.
Use a 24 MSG black or blue chimney connector or listed double wall chimney connector. Refer
to local codes and the chimney manufacturer’s instructions for precautions required for passing
a chimney through a combustible wall or ceiling. Remember to secure the chimney connector
with a minimum of three screws to the product and to each adjoining section.
Position the stove and connect to the flue system.
Wear gloves and protective eyewear when drilling, cutting or joining sections of chimney
connector.
1.3 Connection to the existing chimney
A Chimney connector is the double-wall or single-wall pipe that connects the stove to the
chimney. The chimney itself is the masonry or prefabricated structure that encloses the flue.
Chimney connectors are used only to connect the stove to the chimney.

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INSTALLLATION A B C D E F
UNITED STATES 17” 28½” 28½” 8” See text 8”
CANADA 432 mm 724 mm 724 mm 200 mm below* 203 mm
1.4 Positioning the stove
CLEARANCE REQUIREMENTS TO COMBUSTIBLE SURFACES
The Morsø 5660 Standard NA is approved in the US and Canada for installation into the fol-
lowing;
1. A masonry fireplace.
2. Morsø Fireplace Insert Zero Clearance Enclosure (separate installations instructions
apply).
A Sidewall to insert
B Combustible mantel to insert
C Top facing
D Side facing
E Hearth extension
F Side facing, hearth extension
*
When the appliance is elevated 6” (152 mm in Canada) or more above a combustible floor
(as measured from the floor to the bottom of the door glass), the floor in front of the fireplace
requires thermal protection equal to R-value =1.79 ft² °F h / BTU. Floor protection must
extend out minimum 21” (535 mm in Canada) and 8” (200mm in Canada) to each side of the
fuel loading door
When the appliance is elevated 20.25” (515mm in Canada) or more above a combustible floor
(as measured from the floor to the bottom of the door glass), the floor in front of the fireplace
requires non-combustible ember protection. Floor protection must extend out minimum of
16” (450 mm in Canada) and 8” (200 mm in Canada) to each side of the fuel loading door

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Distance to furniture
The recommended minimum distance from stove to furniture is 42 inches. Note that some
furniture is more easily affected by heat and may need to be moved to a greater distance. This
is your responsibility.
In addition other combustible materials, away from the stove. In general, a distance of 42 inches
must be maintained between the stove and moveable combustible item such as drying clothes,
newspapers, firewood etc.
Note:
Acid Protection
If acid-washing the masonry around the stove, protect the stove surface with an acid-proof
cover
Fresh Air Inlet
Unless there is deemed to be insufficient residual air into the room via doorways, windows
and the like, a dedicated fresh air inlet will be needed. This inlet should have 2 square inches
(1250 square mm) of free air space. This is particularly important where the room is well sea-
led, or where an extractor hood or ventilation system disturbs the natural air pressure. Such
an inlet should not be on a wall that is usually subject to negative pressure from normal wind
pattern. Avoid placing the inlet directly across the room from the stove, thus causing a cold
air draft.
Do NOT install in a mobile home
The hearth requirements are summed up in the following table.
Floor protection requirements
Distance from floor to the
bottom of the door glass
Greater than 6” ( 152 mm) Greater than 20,25’’ (515 mm)
Hearth extension in front
of fuel loading door
21’’ (535 mm) 16’’ (US)
450 mm (CANADA)
Hearth extension to the
side of fuel loading door
8’’ (US)
200 mm (CANADA)
8’’ (US)
200 mm (CANADA)
Hearth material or R-value
for hearth material
1.79 ft² °F h / BTU Non-combustible material

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Choosing your fuel
All types of natural wood can be burned on your stove, but they must be well-
seasoned and dry. Once the wood is cut to length, it should be split down middle
- to suit the dimensions given below - to allow moisture to evaporate.
Cut the wood to a length of max 21 inches (53 cm) and approx. 3 to 3.5 inches
(7-8 cm) in section. If you can weigh your wood, aim for around 2 lbs. For correct
combustion and heat output, wood fuel should contain no more than 20% moisture;
this can easily be checked by using the Morsø Moisture Meter (part # 62929900)
To naturally season wood fuel, stack and store it under cover in an airy location where fresh air
can move through each piece. Some soft woods may take as little as one good summer to season
whereas harder woods such as oak, maple, and elm may require seasoning up to 18 months.
Avoid overly dry wood that is gray in color as under certain conditions it can cause performance
problems, such as back-puffing and sluggishness. Well seasoned wood will be light to hold and
will show signs of cracking from the center-out in the ends. If your wood spits or sizzles when
burnt, and your stove’s door glass persistently mists up, your wood is not properly seasoned.
Never use drift wood (from the sea), whose salt content may cause corrosion, nor construction
wood that may have been impregnated with chemicals.
Starting the first fire
The initial fire should be small, so that the stove paint can cure and the main plates of
the stove can settle into position. Some fumes will be given off by the paint. Ventilate the
room during this phase.
The setting of the air control lever, lighting techniques and loading intervals will depend
on chimney draft, the fuel used, the heat required and so on. Some basic techniques are
outlined below.
2.0 Operation
2.1 Before you start firing
For Use with Solid Wood Fuel Only. Do Not Overfire, If Heater or Chimney Connector
Glows You Are Overfiring. Inspect and Clean Chimney Frequently. Under Certain
Conditions of creosote buildup may occur. To reduce the risk of smoke and flame spillage,
operate only with door fully closed.
Caution:
Hot while in operation. Keep children, clothing and furniture away. Contact may cause
skin burns.
Do not use chemicals or fluids to start the fire.
Do not burn garbage or flammable fluids.
Do not use gasoline, gasoline-type lantern fuel, kerosene, charcoal lighter or fluid or
similar liquids to start or freshen up a fire in this heater. Keep all such liquids away from
the heater while it is in use.

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In principle
Your stove has three air supplies:
Primary air is controlled by the air controller beneath the door. The air from here passes through
internal channels and eventually washes at high speed down the back face of the door glass.
This super-heated air helps with the combustion of volatile gases produced by the fire.
Secondary air is supplied to the top of the fire through holes in the tubes under the lower baffle.
This effectively burns off other residual gases, making for very clean emissions. This air supply
is constant and cannot be varied.
Pilot air is supplied to the firebed through a hole placed behind the front grate. This air will
activate the embers. This air supply is factory set and cannot be varied.
2.2 Lighting and loading intervals
1. A layer of embers will form rapidly if the stove is lit with fire lighters or 7-10 rolled up sheets
of newspaper, underneath roughly 4-5 lb. of dry kindling.
2. Light the fire.
3. Fully open the air controller so that primary air can enter the firebox.
4. After the paper/fire lighters have caught fire, leave the fire door ajar about 1 inch, so that the
chimney draws well.
5. After 5-10 minutes the chimney draft should be established, at this point close the fire door.
If all the necessary conditions are met, a nice layer of embers will start to accumulate after
another 15-20 minutes.
6. Refuelling of your stove should be done while there are still glowing embers in the bed.
Spread the embers across the bottom, but concentrated mostly towards the front of the stove.
7. Place 2-3 pieces of fuel weighing roughly 4-6 lb. across the embers in one layer, with spacing
of roughly 1 inch between the pieces of wood.
8. When the primary air supply is open all the way and the door is closed, the new fuel will ignite
in a few minutes.
9. Once the new fuel has taken, adjust the primary air amount to the desired setting; optimal
combustion will continue until glowing embers are produced.
10. A new charge of wood can be added by repeating steps 6 & 7.
When first lighting the stove, a large volume of air is needed. When the stove is cold, you should
leave the door open an inch or two for the first few minutes and open the primary air
supply completely. While the door is open, do not leave the stove unattended.
To establish a reasonable bed of ash on the firebox floor, you should use 5-6 inches thickness
(4-6 pound) of dry kindling at the initial lighting. Always maintain a 1-1,5 inch (2-3 cm) layer of
ash on the floor of the combustion chamber at all other times.

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Do not for any reason attempt to increase the firing of your heater by altering the air
control adjustment range outlined in these directions.
Warning: Fireplace stoves must never be left unattended with doors open.
If the door is left partly open, gas and flame may be drawn out of the fireplace stove
opening, creating risks from both fire and smoke. We recommend you to fit a smoke
detector in the room where the stove is installed.
DO NOT OVERFIRE THIS HEATER. Overfiring may cause a house fire, or can result in
permanent damage to the stove. If any part of the stove glows, you are overfiring.
The maximum recommended weight of wood fuel per load is 2.5 kg/h/5.5Ibs (approx 3 split
logs).
Draft conditions
If smoke or fumes come out of your stove when lightning up and reloading, or if the fire simply
will not respond, a poor draft is almost certainly to blame. (In a very few cases, there may be
insufficient fresh air getting into the room - see installation advice above). Take advice from your
stove supplier on how best to upgrade your flue system to improve draft.
Rules of woodburning
If you want less heat, put fewer logs on the stove and reduce the amount of air. It is still important
to maintain a good layer of embers.
Less heat - less wood - less air
Greater heat - more wood - more air
Soot deposits will settle on the glass if the stove is run too slowly or if your wood is
not well seasoned.

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3.0 MAINTENANCE
When perfoming maintenance on your stove, always protect yourself, using safety
goggles and gloves.
3.1 Exterior Maintenance
The stove surface is painted with heat-resistant Senotherm paint. It is best kept clean by
vacuuming with a soft brush attachment or by wiping with a lint-free cloth.
Over a period of time, the painted surface may become slightly grey. A can of Morsø touch-up
spray paint should be available from your stove supplier. This can be applied - in accordance
with the instructions - in just a few minutes. When first firing after touching up, the stove will give
off a slight smell as the paint cures. Make sure to ventilate the room well during this phase.
3.2 Internal maintenance
Glass
If the stove is generally run at the correct temperatures, there should be little or no dirt on the
glass. If dirt does settle during lighting, most will burn off as temperatures increase.For heavier
deposits that will not burn off, use morsø glass cleaner, applied when the glass is cold, in
accordance with the instructions. Never use abrasive cleaners on the glass surface.
Reasons for dirty glass
· Fuel too wet
· Logs too large or not split
· Combustion temperatures too low
Replace broken glass immediately.
Do not operate your stove if the glass in the door is damaged.
If you need to replace the glass, it should be replaced with the high temperature ceramic
glass supplied by Morsø, contact your Morsø dealer.
Installing the glass
Never install the glass when the stove is in function.
Ceramic glass replacement
Ceramic glass cannot be recycled
because it has a higher melting point that
ordinary glass. If ceramic glass is mixed
with ordinary glass, the raw material is
spoiled, and the reclaiming process may
be halted. Take care that the ovenproof
glass does not end up among ordinary
recycled waste. That will be a great be-
nefit to the environment.
Note: Should be handed in to a recycling
station as ceramic glass.

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1. Detatch the door (See page 6) off its hinges an place face-down on a sheet of cardboards
or other nonabrasive fabric.
2. Unscrew the six bolts that secure the glass. (In the event that a bolt sheers off when being
unscrewed, remove the remaining body of the bolt by drilling down its center with 1/8 inch high
speed steel drill bit. Smaller drill bits may be successful, but do not use a larger bit. Make
sure the bit stays away from the edges of the bolt - this may damage the thread in the cast iron.
3. Remove the old ceramic gaskets and clean up the surface underneath with wire wool or
emery paper to remove loose particles.
4. Place the new gasket material in position around the perimeter of the window area, making
sure to pinch them to the length in such a way that they make a continuous seal.
Leave no gaps.
5. Place the new glass in position on the strips and screw home the fresh bolts and fitting by hand.
6. Finally, give each of the bolts an extra half turn or so. The glass should held tight enough
by that cleaning will not dislodge it. Do not over-tighten the bolts as this may put excessive
pressure on the glass, resulting in cracking - important!
To reduce the risk of breaking the glass, avoid striking the glass or slamming the
door.
Internal service parts
The flame-path equipment - consisting of firebricks, glass, baffle, pilot air assembly and flue
collar - are subject to the extremes of heat produced by the fire. From time to time, one or other
of these parts may need replacing as a matter of routine maintenance.
NOTE: The flame-path equipment, the ceramic rope and the paint finish are not covered
by guarantee.
All of these service parts can be bought from your morsø dealer, and we recommend that
damaged parts are replaced as soon as possible to avoid collateral damage.
Should the baffle be distorted by an overfire, the stove will still function, although its efficiency
may be compromised. Replace it as soon as possible. Remove the baffle, scrape out the old
fire cement and replace with new to make an effective seal.
Reasons for fast internal wear and tear
Persistent heavy firing
Soot and ashes left to accumulate
Rope Gasket
The rope gasket around the perimeter of the door may harden over a period of time. It should be
replaced if it becomes difficult to close the door or if air starts to leak in around the perimeter of
the door, causing the fire to become a little less controllable. A morsø rope gasket kit is available
from your stove supplier.

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A good routine is to clean the flue after each heating season in any case, and inspect prior to the
season to ensure that bird’s nests or other blockages have not ocurred during the off season.
Ash disposal
Remove excess ash from the stove bottom on a daily basis or as needed. Ash allowed to build
up to the underside of the front grate will trap heat and could cause premature failure of the
grate/pilot air assembly.
Caution:
Never empty a stove whilst in operation.
Never use your household or shop vacuum cleaner to remove ash from the stove;
always remove and dispose of the ash properly.
Creosote - formation and need for removal
When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other organic vapors, which combine with
expelled moisture to form creosote. The creosote vapors condense in the relatively cool chimney
flue of a slow-burning fire. As a result, creosote residue accumulates on the flue lining. When
ignited this creosote makes an extremely hot fire. When burning wood, inspect the chimney
connector periodically to determine if a creosote buildup has occurred.
3.3 Cleaning the Stove and the Flue
Check for soot above the baffle plate and around the flue outlet every month or so to start with.
If the stove suddenly becomes sluggish, check for a soot fall around the flue collar or in the
flue/chimney. Inspect every month.
Clean the flue/chimney - all the way from the stove and through the flue terminal point above
the house.
Chimney sweeping
Inspect the system regularly during the heating season as part of a regular maintenance schedule.
To inspect the chimney, let the stove cool completely. Then, using a mirror, sight up through the
flue collar into the chimney flue. If you cannot inspect the flue system in this fashion, the stove
must be disconnected to provide better viewing access.
Clean the chimney using a brush the same size and shape as the flue liner. Run the brush up
and down the liner, causing any deposits to fall to the bottom of the chimney where they can
be removed through the clean-out door.
Clean the chimney connector by disconnecting the sections, taking them outside, and removing
any deposits with a stiff wire brush. Reinstall the connetor sections after cleaning, maicing sure
to secure the joints between individual sections with sheet metal screws.
If you cannot inspect or clean the chimney yourself, contact your local professional chimney
sweep or local Morsø Deler.
If you do experience a chimney fire, act promptly and:
Close the air control.
Get everyone out of the house.
Call the Fire Department.

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Annual maintenance
Before the heating season, perform a thorough cleaning, inspection and repair:
Thoroughly clean the chimney and chimney connector.
Inspect the chimney for damage and deterioration. Replace weak sections of prefabricated
chimney. Have a mason make repairs to a masonry chimney.
Inspect the chimney connector and replace any damaged sections.
Check gasketing for wear or compression, and replace if necessary.
Check the glass for cracking; replace if needed.
Check door and handles for tightness. Adjust if needed.
3.4 Leaving the stove for extended periods
Important:
If the stove is to be left unused for any period of time, clean it out thoroughly and leave the
handle for primary air inlet slightly open to allow airflow. Make sure that the flue does not allow
rainwater to come anywhere near the stove; install a chimney cap, but do not block off the flue
completely.
These measures should ensure there is a slight movement of air through the stove, and that the
body of the stove remains dry, right into the corners.
Any ash left within an unfired stove can attract moisture like blotting paper. If moisture is allowed
to settle within the stove, rust will form. Rust expands as it takes a grip. This can lead to undue
pressure on the stove joints, and this in turn may result in damage to the stove.
NOTE: It is best to thoroughly clean the stove after the heating season has concluded.
Adding a dessicant, such as kitty litter, into the stove bottom helps absorb moisture
during the summer months. Be sure to remove this prior to the heating season.
Thank you for buying a morsø stove.
We hope you have many years of carefree warmth in its company. Some initial experimentation
with loading and running techniques will decide your normal routine. If you have any problems
after this short learning phase, please refer to your stove dealer. Should they be unable to help
for any reason, please contact us in writing at the address on the front of this publication.