Morso 5660 Standard Insert User manual

Instructions for Installation and Use
5660
EN 13240
MORSØ JERNSTØBERI A/S . DK-7900 NYKØBING MORS
E-Mail: [email protected] · Website: www.morsoe.com

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Page no
1.0 Installing your Morsø stove 21
1.1 Unpacking the stove 21
1.2 Installing the stove 21
1.3 Chimney sweep 21
1.4 Location of the stove/distance requirements 21
1.5 The chimney 27
1.6 Connecting to a brick chimney 28
1.7 Connecting to a steel chimney 28
1.8 Draught 29
2.0 Firing/using the stove 30
2.1 Lighting instructions and fuelling intervals 31
3.0 Routine stove maintenance 33
3.1 External maintenance 33
3.2 Internal maintenance 33
3.3 Cleaning the stove 34
Additional accessories
We offer a comprehensive line of chimney, floor plate and accessory products that can
facilitate the daily operation and maintenance of your Morsø stove.
Contents
Enjoy your new Morsø stove!
Morsø, the biggest stove company in the Danish
market, has been making wood-burning stoves
of the highest quality since 1853. Just follow the
instructions below, and we are certain that you
will be able to use and enjoy your new stove for
many years.

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1.1 Unpacking the stove
We recommend that two persons perform this task since the stove is too heavy to handle sin-
gle-handedly. MORSØ 5660 weighs approximately 125 kg.
The stove is suited for intermittent use.
1.2 Installing the stove
National and local regulations regarding the installation of wood-burning stoves must be
observed, as must local regulations regarding chimney connections and chimney installation.
You may want to ask your chimney sweep for advice. However, you, your technical adviser or
workman are responsible for complying with the applicable national and local regulations.
1.3 Chimney sweep
As stated, it may be wise to consult your local chimney sweep before installing the stove.
In any event, the chimney sweep must be notified once the wood-burning stove has been
installed. The chimney sweep will inspect the installation and schedule sweeping intervals
with you. If your chimney has not been used for some time, it should be inspected for cracks,
bird nests, etc., before it is used.
1.4 Location of the stove/distance requirements
The requirements to the placement of the stove and the separation requirements depend on
the environment in which the stove is placed:
A. Built into masonry or an existing fireplace opening
B. Custom-built fireplace structure in flammable surroundings
A. Built into masonry or an existing fireplace opening
The insert is primarily designed to be built into masonry or an existing fireplace opening.
The adjacent materials must be nonflammable.
A layer of wallpaper is normally considered nonflammable when applied to masonry.
A nonflammable floor protection must cover the floor at least 300 mm to the front of the firing
door and at least 150 mm to each side of the firing opening.
Please note that the floor must be capable of supporting the installation.
There are only spacing requirements when the stove is placed next to flammable materials.
The spacing requirements are the following:
Distance to furniture 1300 mm.
*Right-angled distance to flammable sidewall 400 mm.
** Height over flammable floor 300 mm.
1.0 Installing your Morsø stove

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Morsø 5600 connected to existing masonry
chimney

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Mounting
Remove or fix any existing damper in the chimney in the open position.
It is important that there are a few millimetres between the insert box and the surrounding masonry.
Otherwise, the thermal expansion of the insert box may cause cracking of the masonry.
As an initial estimate, the dimensions of the insert opening in the masonry are 725 mm x 525
mm x 445 mm (width x height x depth).
The insert must be levelled with the levelling screws. Note that the insert box must be even
(flush) with the masonry.
It may be advantageous to insulate with 25-50 mm Rockwool or similar heat-resistant material
around the insert box.
The insert is connected to the chimney by a 150 mm in diameter flue pipe that is fastened to
the flue collar with the supplied self-drilling screws (pre-drill to diameter 3.00 mm) and sealed
with the sealing cord supplied.
Seal between the flue pipe and the masonry chimney with refractory mortar. A thermal expansion
of the flue pipe may cause cracking of the refractory mortar. Therefore, it is important to use a
wall bushing and sealing cord.
If there is no cleaning door as shown in the drawings, it may be advantageous to install one.
This will make the installation of the flue pipe easier, and in some cases, the chimney sweep
may require one.

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B. Custom-built fireplace structure in flammable surroundings
Insulated steel chimney
Ventilation hole, 500 cm²
Nonflammable sheet/slab
Cellular concrete
min. 100 mm
Ventilation hole, 350 cm²

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If the insert is installed in a flammable environment, a fireplace structure must be built where
the insert may be mounted. The fireplace structure will protect the surroundings against the
heat effects of the insert through shielding and ventilation. There are numerous ways to build
a fireplace structure.
Therefore, the following is a guideline as to the principles.
As a minimum, the fireplace structure to hold the insert must be constructed in cellular con-
crete with a minimum width of 100 mm. If other nonflammable materials (bricks, Rockwool,
etc.) are used, ensure that the level of insulation is equivalent.
Ensure that the opening for the insert has the right dimensions. To the sides, there must be 25
mm between the insert box and the wall of the fireplace structure. There must be at least 100
mm between the back panel of the insert box and the rear wall of the fireplace structure. If the
floor is made of a flammable material, the opening must be at least 300 mm over the floor.
The fireplace structure must have ventilation holes.
An entry hole with a surface of at least 350 cm2 must be placed at a level under the insert.
The air that enters through the entry hole must be able to flow freely up past the insert. An
exit hole with a surface of at least 500 cm2 must be placed at a level above the insert. The
exit hole must be at least 850 mm from the ceiling.
Right above the exit hole, a nonflammable sheet or slab (25 mm Rockwool or similar) must
cover the fireplace structure.
A nonflammable floor protection must cover the floor at least 300 mm to the front of the firing
door and at least 150 mm to each side of the firing opening.
Please note that the floor must be capable of supporting the installation.
If the guidelines above are observed, it is permissible to place flammable materials along the
sides and back of the fireplace structure.
Right-angled distance to flammable wall in front of the firing door: 400 mm
Distance to furniture: 1300 mm
Mounting
The insert is positioned in the opening of the fireplace structure and levelled by means of the
levelling screws.
The insert is connected to the chimney by a 150 mm diameter flue pipe that is fastened to the
flue collar with the supplied self-drilling screws (pre-drill to diameter 3.00) and sealed with the
sealing cord supplied.
The smoke in the chimney gets hot. Therefore, ensure that the distances to flammable mate-
rials are observed.

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Distance to furniture
We recommend that the stove be installed 1300 mm from furniture, but consideration should
also be given to whether furniture, etc., will dry out as a result of its proximity to the stove.
The distance to flammable material in front of the stove is 1300 mm.
A wood-burning stove gets hot when it is fired. Caution must therefore be observed,
particularly with regard to children touching the stove.
The stove is equipped with a detachable handle in stainless steel – a poor heat conductor.
When the handle is removed, the stove is more childproof at the same time.
1.5 The chimney
If local regulations permit, the stove may be connected to a chimney already serving another
fireplace (such as an oil-burning stove or another wood-burning stove). Attention should be
paid to any requirements concerning the location of flue pipes if two or more fireplaces are
connected to the same chimney.
The wood-burning stove must never be connected to a chimney to which a gas-burning stove
is already connected. An efficient, modern stove places great demands on the chimney, so
have a chimney sweep check the condition of your chimney.
The aperture of the chimney must comply with national and local regulations. In general, the
aperture area should measure at least 175 cm2(150 mm diameter) for wood-burning stoves.
An overly large chimney aperture will mean that too much energy will be required to heat the
chimney sufficiently to achieve an acceptable draught. If you have a brick chimney with a
large aperture, we recommend that you install an insulating chimney liner of the proper diam-
eter. This will increase the draught, and improve the fuel economy.
There are no requirements with respect to specific chimney heights, but a chimney must be
tall enough to provide a good draught, and to ensure that the smoke does not cause any
problems. As a general rule, there will be a satisfactory draught if the chimney extends 4
metres above the stove and at least 80 cm above the spine of the roof. If the chimney is
located along the side of the house, the top of the chimney should never be lower than the
spine of the roof or the highest point on the roof. Please note that there are often national and
local regulations regulating the location of chimneys in houses with thatched roofs. Please
see section 1.9 Draught.
The chimney and the flue pipe must be fitted with cleaning doors, which must be at least the
same size as the chimney’s aperture area.
The chimney must be accessible for external inspection, and it must be possible to access
the cleaning doors and the chimney if it is to be cleaned from the top (e.g. steel chimneys).

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1.6 Connecting to a brick chimney
Brick a flue bushing securely into the wall, and insert the flue pipe into it. The pipe must not
extend into the actual chimney opening, but only to the inside of the chimney aperture. The
joints between the stove/pipe and pipe/wall bushing must be sealed with the glass tape pro-
vided. It is not normally necessary to seal between any pipe joints.
If the flue pipe transitions from horizontal to vertical, it is a good idea to install it with a gentle
bend so as to avoid any loss of draught.
The flue pipe must be dimensioned in accordance with national and local regulations. Morsø
recommends, however, that flue pipes be made of 2 mm sheet steel as this will extend the
service life.
1.7 Connecting to a steel chimney
If your installation involves routing the chimney straight up through the ceiling, it must comply
with national and local regulations concerning the distance of the chimney from flammable
ceiling material. The chimney must be sealed at the smoke outlet using the glass tape pro-
vided. It is important to install the chimney with a roof support so that the stove does not bear
the weight of the chimney. (See the chimney manufacturer’s instructions). Heavy weights on
the stove’s top plate may cause it to crack. The Morsø warranty does not cover the top plate
if the chimney is installed without a roof support.
If a chimney fire should occur as a result of incorrect operation of the stove or prolonged use
of wet fuel, close the vents completely and contact the fire brigade.
Be aware of the following:
Discuss the cleaning options with your chimney sweep.
If there is insufficient draught in the chimney, it may be a good idea to install
the flue pipe straight up so as to minimise smoke migration in the actual
combustion chamber.
Avoid having more bends than necessary, and limit the length of the flue pipe
so as not to reduce the draught.
Fresh air supply
A wood-burning stove requires air for combustion. As a result, firing a
wood-burning stove will help create a healthy climate in your house. If the
house is very tightly sealed, and particularly if there is a cooker hood or
ventilation system in the house, it may be necessary to install an air grate in the
room in which the wood-burning stove is installed. Otherwise there may not be
enough draught in the chimney, which may result in the stove not being able
to burn properly, and smoke may come out of the stove when the fire door is
opened.
If it is necessary to install air grates, they must be positioned so that they can-
not be obstructed.

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1.8 Draught
If smoke comes out of the stove when the fire door is opened, it will be due to the poor
draught in the chimney. This type of stove requires at least 12 PA of chimney draught to
achieve satisfactory combustion and to prevent smoke from escaping. Smoke may, however,
escape in any event if the stove door is opened during vigorous firing, so this should be
avoided.
The flue gas temperature at the rated output is 286°C relative to 20°C.
The flue gas mass flow is 7.1 grammes/second.
If in doubt, you may want to get your chimney sweep to measure the draught in the chimney.
Draught
The draught in the chimney is the result of the difference between the high
temperature in the chimney and the cooler temperature outside. Other factors that
determine whether sufficient negative pressure can be produced to create a
draught include the length and insulation of the chimney, and wind and weather
conditions.
The draught will be reduced when:
- The temperature difference is too low, e.g. in connection with a poorly insulated
chimney.
If the chimney is cold, it may help to light (burn up) a rolled-up newspaper in the
chimney’s cleaning door.
- The outside temperature is too high, e.g. during the summer.
- There is no wind.
- The chimney is not tall enough, with the result that it sits in the lee of the roof
surface or tall trees.
These conditions are also associated with the greatest risk of smoke coming
back down the chimney.
- Air is entering the chimney in undesired places, e.g. through cracked joints or
leaks in the cleaning door or the flue pipe.
- Unsealed, unused fireplaces are connected to the chimney.
- The flue pipe and chimney are clogged up with soot due to inadequate
cleaning.
- The house is too tightly sealed (please see the section on Fresh air supply).
A good draught is 2achieved when:
- There is a big difference between the temperature in the chimney and outside,
i.e. when the need for heating is greatest.
- The weather is clear and there is a good wind.
- The chimney is of the proper height, i.e. Minimum 4 metres above the stove, and
clear of the spine of the roof.

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2.0 Firing/using the stove
The heat emission of the stove is regulated with the regulation lever under the door.
The stove uses three types of combustion air.
The secondary combustion air is supplied down along the glass. This air is regulated with the
lever under the door.
The tertiary combustion air is supplied to the combustion right over the fire. This air supply
may not be regulated.
The pilot combustion air provides for the activation of embers and keeps the combustion go-
ing even at the lowest damper position. This air supply comes from two nozzles on the front
frame below the door. This air supply may not be regulated.
The nominal heat output of the stove is 6.5 kW.
Your new Morsø stove is EN tested and recommended for burning wood.
NB!
Wood is a material that contains a great deal of gas (approx. 75%). The gases are re-
leased when the wood is lit and heated. For this reason, it is important that these ga-
ses are ignited quickly after stoking. If the wood just lies smouldering, especially after
re-stoking, a lot of smoke is created which, in the worst case, may cause an explosive
ignition of the gases, resulting in damage to the stove.
In order to ignite the gases that are released from the wood, and to keep clear, lasting
flames during the combustion process, it is important to let in the required quantity of
oxygen (air supply) at all times. The setting of the air supply, the method of ignition and
the lighting intervals depend on the draught in the chimney, the wind and weather, the
amount of heat required, the fuel, etc. This means that it may take some time before
you get to know the correct functioning of the stove under any given circumstances.
Although you can fire your Morsø stove with almost all kinds of wood, you should not
fire with wet wood, or unseasoned wood. Wood ought to be stored under a roof for at
least 1 year, and preferably 2 years, with free access to wind. Wood should be chop-
ped as soon as possible after felling if it is to dry quickly. The wood can be used once
the moisture is less than 20%. During the EN test, all stoves are tested with wood with
a moisture content of (16 ± 4)%.
Never use driftwood as it usually has a high salt content, which damages both the st-
ove and the chimney. Impregnated and painted wood and chipboard emit poisonous
smoke and fumes so they should not be used as fuel either
Please note that liquid fuel may not be used in the stove.
Pieces of wood with a diameter exceeding 10 cm should always be chopped.
The pieces of wood should be short enough to be able to lie flat over the layers of
embers, with air at both ends. The maximum length of fuel in the stove is 50 cm. The
maximum quantity of fuel is approx. 3,5 kg/hour.
The first few times you light the stove, the fire should be moderate so that the heat-
resistant paint can harden before firing more vigorously. During the hardening phase,
the paint may develop obnoxious smoke and smell the first time it is lit, which is very
normal. Make sure that the room is well ventilated during this period.

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1. A layer of embers will form rapidly if the stove is lit with
2-4 fuel tablets or 7-10 rolled-up sheets of newspaper
underneath approx. 3-4 kg dry kindling.
2. Open up completely for the secondary air supply by means
of the regulation lever.
3. After the paper/solid alcohol tablets have caught fire, lea-
ve the fire door ajar about 2 cm so that the chimney draws
well.
4. When you can see that the chimney is hot enough to draw
(after 5-10 minutes), close the door. If all the necessary
conditions are met, a thick layer of embers will have been
formed in the combustion chamber after another 15-20 mi-
nutes.
5. Re-stoking should normally be carried out while embers
still remain. Distribute the embers in the bottom, ensuring
that most of them are at the front of the stove.
6. Place 2-3 logs of firewood, each weighing approximately
0.7-1 kg and 30-50 cm long, over the embers in one lay-
er separated by approximately 1 cm. The best combusti-
on is obtained if the longitudinal dimension of the logs is
parallel with the rear wall of the stove.
7. When the secondary air supply is opened to maximum and
the door is closed, the new quantity of wood will ignite in
a few minutes.
8. Subsequently, the secondary air supply is adjusted to the
desired level, and the optimum combustion will continue
until only embers are left.
Under the nominal test, the refill interval was 60-70 minu-
tes.
9. A new portion of wood can be added by repeating steps
5 & 6.
2.1 Lighting instructions and fuelling intervals
A lot of air is needed when lighting the stove. If you are starting with a cold stove, the door
should be left ajar for the first few minutes. In order to build up an insulating layer of ash in
the bottom of the stove, you should burn 3 kg of dry kindling when you light the stove the first
time.
Always keep approx. 1 cm ash in the bottom of the combustion chamber.

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Comparison between firing with wood and oil:
Type of wood (moisture content 20%) No. of cubic metres per 1000 l oil
Oak 7.0
Beech 7.0
Ash 7.2
Sycamore 7.5
Birch 8.0
Elm 8.9
Common spruce 10.4
Silver fir 10.9
The stove door should normally be opened gently the first 2-3 cm, then you should wait until
the pressure has equalised before opening the door all the way. This technique will prevent
smoke from getting out, particularly when there is a poor draugt.
The stove door should never be opened when the stove is being fired vigorously.
Once the wood has burned out, it becomes glowing charcoall. If a good layer of embers has
already formed on top of a sufficient layer of ash, the stove can keep warm for a very long
time, not least due to the favourable qualities of the cast iron.
We would strongly recommend that you do not leave your stove alit at night.
It harms the environment and constitutes very poor use of the wood as the
gases in the wood do not ignite at the low temperature, but settle as soot
(unburned gases) in the chimney and stove. Extreme conditions, such as
poor draught in the chimney, large quantities of wood or wet wood, may in
the worst-case scenario cause an explosive ignition.
When firing in the summer period, when there is minimal need for heat, the
combustion will be poor. The stove provides too much heat so the combu-
stion should be reduced. But always remember to make sure that there are
lasting flames until the wood becomes charcoal. If you want a weaker fire,
stoke up using less wood.
If you fire the stove using wet wood, a lot of the fuel’s thermal energy will be
spent forcing the water out of the wood, without releasing any heat to the
stove. This incomplete combustion results in a layer of soot being left in the
stove, pipe and chimney.

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3.1 External maintenance
The cast surface of the stove is painted with heat-resistant Senotherm paint. It is best
maintained by simply vacuuming it with a soft brush attachment or wiping it down with a dry,
dust-free cloth.
If the stove is used too vigorously, the painted surface may assume a greyish tinge over time,
but the stove can easily be freshened up with Morsø spray paint, which is available from your
local retailer.
Morsø stoves are painted in Morsø charcoal or Morsø light grey. The paint is available either
as a spray or in tins.
3.2 Internal maintenance
Glass window
If the stove is used correctly, very little or no soot will be deposited on the ceramic glass
window. If soot does form on the glass as the stove is being lit, it will burn away once normal
combustion begins in the stove. If the glass window becomes thoroughly covered in soot due
to incorrect operation, the soot can be easily removed using a cleaning agent such as Morsø
Glass Cleaner. The glass must be cold when you clean it. Avoid stoking the stove with pieces
of wood that are so long that they press against the glass window when the door is closed.
Interior cast iron parts and other wear and tear parts
Vermiculite stones and other parts that are in direct contact with fire and burning fuel are
wear and tear parts. As such, they are particularly exposed to being burnt through. Used cor-
rectly, these parts will last many years; but firing too heavily will of course accelerate burning
through.
The parts mentioned may easily be changed.
If the baffle plate is damaged and not replaced in time, the top plate will be exposed to such
high temperatures that it may be damaged.
Note that unauthorized changes of the construction may not be made, and parts may
only be replaced with original Morsø parts.
3.0 Routine stove maintenance
Reasons for overly rapid wear of internal parts
- Stove fired too vigorously
- Use of very dry wood (wood from old furniture).
- Too much soot on top of the baffles (please see the section on Cleaning).
- Too much ash in the ash pan (please see the section on Ash).
Reasons for sooty glass window:
- The fuel is too wet.
- The pieces of fuel are to big/uncut wood.
- The combustion temperature is too low.

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Gaskets
With time, the gaskets in the door will wear, and, in order to avoid wild combustion, they
must be replaced as required. Use an original Morsø gasket kit that is supplied with precise
instructions for use.
Note: Normal wearing parts are not covered by Morsø’s extended warranty.
A selection of maintenance products (spare parts, glass cleaner, paint, gasket kit, etc.) is
available from your Morsø dealer.
3.3 Cleaning the stove
Ashes and soot will settle, especially over the baffle plate, because of the draft in the chimney
and after a sweeping. The ashes have an insulating effect that may accelerate the burning
through of the baffle plate because it cannot give off the heat. The baffle plate may be taken
out of the stove during normal cleaning. Today, the chimney sweep, in addition to sweeping
the chimney and cleaning the flue pipes, must take care of removing soot from the stove.
The chimney sweep will establish the annual number of sweeps and cleanings after having
consulted you.
Ash
As noted above, there should be a layer of approx. 1 cm insulating ash in the bottom of the
combustion chamber in order to achieve a high combustion temperature. If the layer of ash is
too thick, it can be brushed down into the ash pan.
Empty the ash pan before it gets completely full so that the ash does not insulate around the
grate, and thereby speed up the burn-through.
In most cases, the ash will need to be taken away by the waste disposal company. Because
embers may be concealed in the ash pan for several days, it may be necessary to store the
ash in a container made of non-flammable material before pouring it into a rubbish bag.
Ash from a wood-burning stove will not be of any benefit to your garden as fertiliser. If you
have burned colour brochures, or painted or treated wood, etc., in the stove, the resulting ash
must not be poured onto soil as it may contain heavy metals.
Spare parts for the 5660
Description Product no.
Stone, rear 79560200
Stone, side 79560300
Stone, bottom 79560500
Baffle plate, top 79560700
Baffle plate, bottom 79561100

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MORSØ JERNSTØBERI A/S . DK-7900 NYKØBING MORS
E-Mail: [email protected] · Website: www.morsoe.com
Morsø Jernstøberi A/S - 23.06.2008 - 72560600