Morso 7943 User manual

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MORSØ JERNSTØBERI A/S . DK-7900 NYKØBING MORS
E-Mail: [email protected] · Website: www.morsoe.com
A French version of the manual can be downloaded at www.morsona.com
Installation and Operating Instructions
7900 series
For use in North America
Read this entire manual before you install and use your new room heater. If this room heater is
not properly installed, a house fire may result. To reduce the risk of fire, follow the installation
instructions. Failure to follow instructions may result in property damage, bodily injury, or
even death.
Contact local building officials about restrictions and installation/inspection-requirements
in your area.
Save these instructions
Morsø 7943

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We congratulate you on your choice of a Morsø stove. Morsø has been
producing some of the world’s best stoves since 1853. If you follow this
installation- and operating instruction carefully, we can assure you
many years of warmth and pleasure.
Optional Accessories
A wide range of accessories (such as handling gloves, fireside tools, glass cleaner and heatproof
paint) are available for use with your Morsø stove. They help with day-to-day running and
maintenance. Contact your Morsø dealer for more information.
The Morsø 7900 series meets the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency’s emission limits for
wood heaters sold on or after July 1, 1990
The Morsø 7900 series have been tested by OMNI-Test Laboratories, Inc. The test standards are
UL1482-2011 for the United States and ULC-S627-00 for Canada.
The stove is listed for burning wood only. Do not burn other fuels.
Under specific test conditions this heater has been shown to deliver heat at rates ranging from
11 600 to 26 700 BTU/hr.
Cast iron
Cast iron is a live material. There are no two ovens that are identical. This is partly due to the
tolerances of the casting process, partly because the ovens are a work of craftsmanship.
Minor unevennesses may also occur in the cast iron surface.
Portland
Oregon USA
Tested &
Listed By
OMNI-Test Laboratories, inc.
Report Number: 192-S-23-2

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CONTENTS:
1.0 Installation of your Morsø stove 4
1.1 Checking loose parts in the stove 4
1.2 The chimney / flue system 5
1.3 Flue Connection 6
1.4 Connection to existing chimney 6
1.5 Positioning the stove 8
1.6 Positioning the 7970 stove model 10
2.0 Operation 11
2.1 Before you start firing 11
2.2 Lighting and loading intervals 12
3.0 Maintenance 16
3.1 Exterior maintenance 16
3.2 Internal maintenance 16
3.3 Cleaning the stove and the flue 18
3.4 Leaving the stove for extended periods 20
3.5 Parts diagram 21

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CAUTION:DO NOT CONNECT TO OR USE IN CONJUNCTION WITH ANY AIR DISTRIBUTION
DUCTWORK UNLESS SPECIFICALLY APPROVED FOR SUCH INSTALLATION
Important: If the installation instructions are not followed carefully, it may cause
dangerous situations like chimney - and house fires. Follow the instructions
carefully and do not deviate from them as it may cause injuries to people or
property.
1.0 Installation of your Morsø stove
Installation of woodburning stoves must be safe and legal.
If your Morsø stove is not installed correctly, it may cause a house fire. To reduce
the risk of fire, the installation instructions must be followed carefully. Contact the
local building officials about restrictions and installation inspection in your area.
Before you start installing your stove, make sure that:
• The stove and chimney connection are placed far enough from combustible materials to
meet all clearance requirements.
• The floor protection must be adequate and must be made correctly according to the
requirements.
• All neccessary approvals are needed from the local building officials.
The data plate, which is located on the back of the stove, provides information regarding safety
testing information, name of certified testing laboratory, and installation requirements.
Installation requirements vary in different districts, and the local building officials have the final
authorization to approve your installation. You should discuss the installation with them before
beginning. Please ask your dealer for further information.
1.1 Checking loose parts in the stove
After unpacking, check that the fire bricks are firmly in position and have not shifted in transit.
Check also that the air control works freely.
Before starting the initial fire, make sure that the baffles is placed correctly.
Standard Accessories
A Morsø glove and ceramic flue connection gasket are standard accessories that usually can be
found in the ashpan or firebox area.
CAUTION:DO NOT USE MAKE-SHIFT COMPROMISES DURING THE INSTALLATION OF THE
STOVE

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1.2 The chimney / flue system
Note that the flue system must be independently secured and must not rely on the stove for support.
DO NOT CONNECT THIS UNIT TO A CHIMNEY FLUE SERVING ANOTHER APPLIANCE
Use a residential type masonry or listed type HT factory-built chimney.
High Temperature (H.T.) Chimney Standard UL-103-1985 (2100º F.) or a code-approved
masonry chimney with flue liner for the USA, and High Temperature (650ºC) Standard
ULC S-629 for Canada.
The internal dimensions of the chimney connector and chimney must not be less than 6 inches
diameter (or equivalent cross section), and should not be significantly larger than this. Too large a
section will tend to allow the flue gases to cool excessively, causing sluggishness or unpredictability
in the stove’s performance.
We recommend the length of the chimney system should be at least 16 feet (not required) above
the stove in normal domestic situations, measured from the flue collar to the top of the chimney.
Local conditions like for example - roof constructions, large trees nearby and high altitude, may
influence the chimney draft and height. Therefore, contact the local professional chimney sweep
or your Morsø dealer.
Typical Factory-Built or Masonry Chimney Installations

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1.4 Connection to the existing chimney
A chimney connector is the double-wall or single-wall pipe that connects the stove to the chim-
ney. The chimney itself is the masonry or prefabricated structure that encloses the flue. Chim-
ney connectors are used only to connect the stove to the chimney.
Double-wall connectors must be tested and listed for use with solid-fuel burning appliances.
Single-wall connectors should be made of 24 gauge or heavier gauge steel. Do not use galvanized
connector; it cannot withstand the high-temperatures that smoke and exhaust gases can reach, and
may release toxic fumes under high heat. The connector must be 6 inches (150mm) in diameter.
If possible, do not pass the chimney connector through a combustible wall or ceiling.
If passage through a combustible wall is unavoidable, refer to the sections on Wall
Pass- Throughs. Do not pass the connector through an attic, a closet or similar
concealed space when installing the chimney connectors.
It is important to keep the flue gases moving smoothly in the right direction. Do not vent into a
large void at this location; rather form one continuous section all the way up. Use mild bends
(e.g. 45º vs. 90º) rather than sharp angles where a change of direction is required. All parts of
the venting must be accessible for cleaning purposes.
In horizontal runs of chimney, maintain a distance of 18 inches from the ceiling. Keep it as short
and direct as possible, with no more than two 90 degree turns. Slope horizontal runs of connector
upward 1/4 inch per foot (20 mm per metre) going from the stove toward the chimney. The
recommended maximum length of a horizontal run is 3 feet (1 metre), and the total length should
be no longer than 8 feet (2.5 metres).
Information on assembling and installing connectors is provided by the manufacturer’s instructions
exactly as you assemble the connector and attach it to the stove and chimney.
Be sure the installed stove and chimney connector are correct distances from near by
combustible materials. See the clearance paragraph page 8.
1.3 Flue Connection
The stove is supplied from the factory with a round blanking plate blocking off the top and rear
flue exit (behind the rear shield plate). A flue collar are placed in the firebox area.
Use a 24 MSG black or blue chimney connector or listed double wall chimney connector. Refer
to local codes and the chimney manufacturer’s instructions for precautions required for passing
a chimney through a combustible wall or ceiling. Remember to secure the chimney connector
with a minimum of three screws to the product and to each adjoining section.
The collar can be fitted to the rear outlet. Simply knock out the round panel on the rear heat shield
plate to reveal the cast iron plate. Untwist the blanking plate and the flue collar and swap their
positions. Re-secure by pushing down and tighten the enclosed screws.
Position the stove and connect to the flue system.
Wear gloves and protective eyewear when drilling, cutting or joining sections of chimney
connector
Where passage through a wall or partition of combustible construction is desired, the instal-
lation shall conform to CAN/CSA-B365.

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1.5 Positioning the stove
Distance to walls and lintel
When the stove is positioned near combustible materials, observe all current local and national
building regulations with regards to clearances. Whatever regulations apply to your area, do
not in any case install the stove within 8 inches of combustible materials around the sides or
16 inches above the top of the stove (fireplace installations require greater clearances above
the stove - see below in the clearance chart). These distances may need to be increased if the
materials are sensitive to heat. Note also that wall paper and other decorative materials may
become detached with the effects of heat and care should be taken to ensure that they do not fall
towards the stove in such an event.
When the stove is positioned near non-combustible materials, a gap of 4 inches or more is
recommended for cleaning purposes and to ensure that heat circulates around the stove and
out into the room.
If using rear exit, the floor protection must extend beneath the chimney connector and 2-in
beyond each side.
CLEARANCE REQUIREMENTS STANDARD RESIDENTIAL
FREESTANDING INSTALLATIONS
(SINGLE AND DOUBLEWALL CONNECTOR):
A. SIDEWALL TO UNIT
B. BACKWALL TO UNIT
C. CORNERWALL TO UNIT
D. SIDEWALL TO CONNECTOR
E. BACKWALL TO CONNECTOR
F. CORNERWALL TO CONNECTOR
G. UNIT TO CEILING
H. FLOOR TO CEILING
REAR VENT OUT THE
BACKWALL CONFIGURATION
A. SIDEWALL TO UNIT
B. BACKWALL TO UNIT
D. SIDEWALL TO CONNECTOR
SINGLE WALL DOUBLE WALL
23’’ (585 mm.)
5’’ (127 mm.)
7’’ (178 mm.)
29.5’’ (750 mm.)
8.5’’ (216 mm.)
14.5’’ (369 mm.)
37.5’’ (953 mm.)
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23’’ (585 mm.)
7’’ (178 mm.)
29.5’’ (750mm.)
23’’ (585 mm.)
5’’ (127 mm.)
7’’ (178 mm.)
29.5’’ (750 mm.)
8.5’’ (216 mm.)
14.5’’ (369 mm.)
37.5’’ (953 mm.)
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23’’ (585 mm.)
7’’ (178 mm.)
29.5’’ (750mm.)
BACKWALL
SIDEWALL
ADJACENT WALL
ADJACENT WALL

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FLOOR PROTECTOR MUST BE NON-COMBUSTIBLE MATERIAL. IT MUST EXTEND BENEATH HEATER, AND
TO THE FRONT / SIDES / REAR AS INDICATED.
FOR REAR-VENT THE FLOOR PROTECTOR MUST BE UNDER CHIMNEY CONNECTOR AND AT LEAST 2’’ BEY-
OND ON EACH SIDE
FLOOR PROTECTECTOR MUST BE LISTED TO UL 1618- TYPE 1
FLOOR PROTECTION REQUIREMENTS NON -COMBUSTIBLE MATERIAL BENEATH STOVE
A EXTENDING DISTANCE, BACK
B EXTENDING DISTANCE, RIGHT SIDE
C EXTENDING DISTANCE, LEFT SIDE
D EXTENDING DISTANCE, FRONT
USA CANADA
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6’’
6’’
16’’
8’’ (200 mm.)
8’’ (200 mm.)
8’’ (200 mm.)
18’’ (450 mm.)
Distance to furniture
The recommended minimum distance from stove to furniture is 30 inches. Note that some
furniture is more easily affected by heat and may need to be moved to a greater distance. This
is your responsibility.
In addition other combustible materials, away from the stove. In general, a distance of 30 inches
must be maintained between the stove and moveable combustible item such as drying clothes,
newspapers, firewood etc.
CAUTION: DO NOT INSTALL IN A MOBIL HOME
WARNING:
NEVER DRAW COMBUSTION AIR FROM A WALL, FLOOR OR CEILING CAVITY OR FROM ANY
ENCLOSED SPACE SUCH AS AN ATTIC OR GARAGE.
DO NOT INSTALL IN SLEEPING ROOM.

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1.6 Positioning the 7970 stove model (wallmounted)
The stove must be installed on a non-combustible wall. A suitable wall would be a brick-
or a concrete wall
The wall-mounting fixture is provided with four holes for mounting expansion bolts in the wall.
The bolts must be sized to secure that the wall and the materials it is made from are capable
of supporting the stove. If in doubt, contact an expert. The weight of the empty stove is approx.
160 kg (353 lbs.). The wall-mounting fixture may be used as drilling template.
Mount the wall-mounting fixture on the wall. If the flue exit is wanted to the rear, build a wall
bushing correctly into the wall (see illustration).
Lift the wood stove in place so that it rests on the bottom part of the wall-mounting fixture,
and secure it again to the fixture by means of the screws included.
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A
A
Min. 275 mm
Min. 11"
A-A
Revisions
Rev.
Sign.:
Title:
Drawing no.:
Dim. without indication of margin acc. to DS/ISO 2768-1 m
1:7
Snit til vejledning
NA
Morsø 7900
RSV
14.06.2012
A3
Date of print: 15-05-2013
C:\Working\7900 Assembly.SLDASM
7900-111 a
Itemno.:
This drawing is Morsø Jernstøberi A/S' property and must not be sold, lended or copied without any written authorization from the company.
Material:
Weight kg:
Model no.
Drawingtype:
Location of file:
Scale:
Format:
Released:
Construction:
Date:
DO NOT OBSTRUCT BENEATH THE HEATER

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2.0 Operation
2.1 Before you start firing
For Use with Solid Wood Fuel Only. Do Not Overfire, If Heater or Chimney Connector Glows
You Are Overfiring. Inspect and Clean Chimney Frequently. Under Certain Conditions of use
creosote buildup may occur rapidly. Because of risk of smoke and flame spillage, operate only
with door fully closed.
CAUTION:
HOT WHILE IN OPERATION. KEEP CHILDREN, CLOTHING AND FURNITURE AWAY. CONTACT
MAY CAUSE SKIN BURNS.
DO NOT USE CHEMICALS OR FLUIDS TO START THE FIRE
DO NOT BURN GARBAGE OR FLAMMABLE FLUIDS SUCH AS GASOLINE, NAPHTHA OR ENGINE
OIL
DO NOT USE A GRATE, ANDIRONS, OR OTHER WAYS OF ELEVATING THE FIRE - BUILD FIRE
DIRECTLY ON HEARTH, DO NOT ELEVATE FIRE
NEVER USE GASOLINE, GASOLINE-TYPE LANTERN FUEL, KEROSENE, CHARCOAL LIGHTER
OR FLUID OR SIMILAR LIQUIDS TO START OR 'FRESHEN UP' A FIRE IN THIS HEATER. KEEP
ALL SUCH LIQUIDS AWAY FROM THE HEATER WHILE IT IS IN USE
Note:
Acid Protection
If acid-washing the masonry around the stove, protect the stove surface with an acid-proof cover
Fresh Air Inlet
Unless there is deemed to be sufficient ambient leakage of air into the room via doorways, windows
and the like, a dedicated fresh air inlet will be needed. This inlet should have 2 square inches
(1250 square mm) of free air space. This is particularly important where the room is well sealed,
or where an extractor hood or ventilation system disturbs the natural air pressure. Such an inlet
should not be on a wall that is usually subject to negative pressure from normal wind pattern.
Avoid placing the inlet directly across the room from the stove, thus causing a cold air draft.

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The secondary air is injected into the flue gases above the fire resulting in a cleaner, more efficient
combustion process. The supply of secondary air and Pilot air is fixed open and is not adjustable.
For extra safety, your stove should be with a removable handle.
2.2 Lighting and loading intervals
When first lighting the stove, a large volume of air is needed. When the stove is cold, you should
leave the door open an inch or two for the first few minutes and open the primary air supply
completely. While the door is open, do not leave the stove unattended.
To form a reasonable bed of ash on the floor of the stove, you should use 3-5 pounds of dry kindling
at the initial lighting. If possible, maintain a 1-1.5 inch (2-3 cm) layer of ash on the floor of the
combustion chamber for added insulation.
CAUTION Do not place fuel within the installation clearances for the stove or within the
space required for loading fuel and ash removal.
Starting the First Fire
The initial fire should be small, so that the stove paint can cure and the main plates of the
stove can settle into position. Some fumes will be given off by the paint. Ventilate the room
during this phase.
The setting of the air control, lighting techniques and loading intervals will depend on chimney
draft, the fuel used, the heat required and so on. Some basic techniques are outlined below.
In principle
Your stove should be with Primary and Secondary air and Pilot air inlets.
Primary Air is controlled using the lever situated over the door. Moving the control lever to right
position will open the air inlet and will allow a supply of preheated air to enter the firebox via the
‘airwash’ system situated inside the stove and above the glass.
Choosing your fuel
All types of natural wood can be burned on your stove, but they must be well seasoned and dry.
Once the wood is cut to length, it should be split down middle - to suit the dimentions given below
-to allowmoisture to evaporate.
Cut the wood to a length of max 12 inches (30 cm) and approx. 3 to 3.5 inches (7-8 cm) in section.
If you can weigh your wood, aim for around 2 lbs. For correct combustion and heat output, wood
fuel should contain no more than 20% moisture; this can easily be checked by using the Morsø
Moisture Meter (part # 62929900)
To naturally season wood fuel, stack and store it under cover in an airy location where fresh air
can move through each piece. Some soft woods may take as little as one good summer to season
whereas harder woods such as oak, maple, and elm may require seasoning up to 18 months.
Avoid overly dry wood that is gray in color as under certain conditions it can cause performance
problems, such as back-puffing and sluggishness. Well seasoned wood will be light to hold and
will show signs of cracking from the center-out in the ends. If your wood spits or sizzles when
b urnt, and your stove’s door glass persistently mists up, your wood is not properly seasoned.
Never use drift wood (from the sea), whose salt content may cause corrosion, nor construction
wood that may have been impregnated with chemicals.

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3. Light the fire. An ember bed will quickly be
formed by lighting with firestarters, Morsø
kindling bags or 7-10 pieces of twisted
paper under the dry kindling wood.
Step-by-step procedure
1. The air supply must be fully open. Move the
control lever to the right position
2. For lighting the fire use 3-5 pounds of dry
kindling wood.
4. After lighting, partially close the door,
leaving it open an inch or two to allow in
plenty of combustion air.
5. When the chimney is warm after about
5-10 minutes, the door should be closed.
CAUTION: DO NOT BUILD THE FIRE TO CLOSE TO THE GLASS

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6. A suitable layer of ember will be formed
after about 15-20 minutes.
7. When ready to reload, use a poker to
spread the embers across the firebox floor,
bringing plenty towards the front of the
stove.
8. Lay 2 pieces of wood onto the embers. Leave
half an inch or more between each piece.
Max. fuelload 4,0 pounds/h.
9. Close the door. Leave the primary air
supply fully open.
If it does not light, leave the door slightly
ajar to allow the necessary amount of air
in to ignite the wood.
Close the door again once the wood has
kindled.
After a few minutes, adjust the primary air
supply to suit your heating requirements.
Make sure that there is always enough air
to sustain clear, enduring flames when you
reduce the amount of combustion air, and
afterwards.
10. For refueling, add a layer of wood while
there are still plenty of live embers, repeat
steps 7-8.

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Do not for any reason attempt to increase the firing of your heater by altering the air control
adjustment range outlined in these directions.
Warning: Fireplace stoves must never be left unattended with the door open.
If the door is left partly open, gas and flame may be drawn out of the fireplace stove
opening, creating risks from both fire and smoke. We recommend that you fit a smoke detector
in the room where the stove is installed.
DO NOT OVERFIRE THIS HEATER. Overfiring may cause a house fire, or can result in permanent
damage to the stove. If any part of the stove glows, you are overfiring.
The maximum recommended weight of wood fuel per load is 4.0 Ibs/hr. (2.0 kg/h) (approx 3 split
logs).
Under normal firing, the average flue temperature in the stove pipe, measured 20 cm above the
stove, is approx. 300° C (550°F). The maximum flue temperature in the stove pipe must not exceed
450° C (750°F). If the flue temperature exceeds 450°C (750°F), it is considered as over firing and
may cause premature wear and tear of the stove.
To help gauge the correct running temperature of your stove, we recommend you use the Morsø
Flue Gas Thermometer (part # 62901200). The Flue Gas Thermometer magnetically attaches onto
the stove pipe approx 20 cm (8”) above the stove’s top plate and measures the surface temperature
of the stove pipe. Please see your authorized Morsø Dealer for availability.
Draft conditions
If smoke or fumes come out of your stove when lightning up and reloading, or if the fire simply
will not respond, a poor draft is almost certainly to blame. (In a very few cases, there may be
insufficient fresh air getting into the room - see installation advice above). Take advice from your
stove supplier on how best to upgrade your flue system to improve draft.
Rules of woodburning
If you want less heat, put fewer logs on the stove and reduce the amount of air. It is still important
to maintain a good layer of embers.
Less heat - less wood - less air
Greater heat - more wood - more air
Soot deposits will settle on the glass if the stove is run too slowly or if your wood
is not well seasoned.
We would strongly recommend that you do not leave your stove alit at night. It harms the envi-
ronment, and constitutes very poor use of the wood, as the gases in the wood do not ignite at
the low temperature, but settle as soot (unburned gases) in the chimney and stove instead.

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Reasons for dirty glass
· Fuel too wet
· Logs too large or not split
· Combustion temperatures too low
· Logs to close to glass (side windows)
Replace broken glass immediately.
Do not operate your stove if the glass in the door is damaged.
WARNING: ALWAYS USE ORIGINAL MORSO GLASS SPAREPARTS
Morso ceramic glass can not be substituted by other materials
If you need to replace the glass, contact your Morsø dealer.
Installing the glass
Never install the glass when the stove is in function.
Ceramic glass replacement
Ceramic glass cannot be recycled because it has a higher melting point that ordinary glass. If
ceramic glass is mixed with ordinary glass, the raw material is spoiled, and the reclaiming pro-
cess may be halted. Take care that the ovenproof glass does not end up among ordinary recycled
waste. That will be a great benefit to the environment.
Note: Should be handed in to a recycling station as ceramic glass.
3.0 MAINTENANCE
When perfoming maintenance on your stove, always protect yourself, using safety goggles
and gloves.
3.1 Exterior Maintenance
The stove surface is painted with heat-resistant Senotherm paint. It is best kept clean by vacuuming
with a soft brush attachment or by wiping with a lint-free cloth.
Over a period of time, the painted surface may become slightly grey. A can of Morsø touch-up
spray paint should be available from your stove supplier. This can be applied - in accordance with
the instructions - in just a few minutes. When first firing after touching up, the stove will give off
a slight smell as the paint cures. Make sure to ventilate the room well during this phase.
3.2 Internal maintenance
Glass
If the stove is generally run at the correct temperatures, there should be little or no dirt on the glass.
If dirt does settle during lighting, most will burn off as temperatures increase.For heavier deposits
that will not burn off, use morsø glass cleaner, applied when the glass is cold, in accordance with
the instructions. Never use abrasive cleaners on the glass surface.

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NOTE: The flame-path equipment, the ceramic rope and the paint finish are not covered by
guarantee.
All of these service parts can be bought from your morsø dealer, and we recommend that damaged
parts are replaced as soon as possible to avoid collateral damage.
Should the baffle be distorted by an overfire, the stove will still function, although its efficiency
may be compromised. Replace it as soon as possible.
Reasons for fast internal wear and tear
Persistent heavy firing
Soot and ashes left to accumulate
To reduce the risk of breaking the glass, avoid striking the glass or slamming the door.
Internal service parts
The flame-path equipment - consisting of the ashpan, grate, firebricks, Cast iron fire plates,
glass, baffle and flue collar - are subject to the extremes of heat produced by the fire. From
time to time, one or other of these parts may need replacing as a matter of routine maintenance.
Door glass replacement.
1. When you open the door, you will find two hinge pins, one in each hinge. Remove the two
hinge pins, lift the door off the hinges and place it face down on a sheet of cardboard or other
nonabrasive fabric.
2. Unscrew the 4 bolts that secure the glass. (In the event that a bolt sheers off when being
unscrewed, remove the remaining body of the bolt by drilling down its centre with 1/8 inch high
speed steel drill bit. Smaller drill bits may be successful, but do not use a lager bit. Make sure
the bit stays away from the edges of the bolt - this may damage the thread in the cast iron).
3. Remove the old ceramic gaskets and clean up the surface underneath with wire wool or emery
paper to remove loose particles.
4. Place the new gasket material in position around the perimeter of the window area, making
sure to pinch them to the length in such a way that they make a continuous seal. Leave no gaps.
5. Place the new glass in position on the strips and screw home the fresh bolts and fitting by hand.
6. Finally, give each of the bolts an extra half turn or so. The glass should held tight enough by that
cleaning will not dislodge it. Do not over-tighten the bolts as this may put excessive pressure
on the glass, resulting in cracking - important!

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CAUTION:
Never empty a stove in operation.
Never use your household or shop vacuum cleaner to remove ash from the stove;
always remove and dispose of the ash properly.
Creosote - formation and need for removal
When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other organic vapors, which combine with expelled
moisture to form creosote. The creosote vapors condense in the relatively cool chimney flue of a
slow-burning fire. As a result, creosote residue accumulates on the flue lining. When ignited this
creosote makes an extremely hot fire. When burning wood, the chimney and chimney connector
should be inspected at least once every two months during the heating season to determine if
a creosote buildup has occurred. If creosote has accumulated, it should be removed to reduce
the risk of a chimney fire.
Clean the flue/chimney - all the way from the stove to the flue terminal point above the house.
A good routine is to clean the flue after each heating season in any case, and inspect prior to the
season to ensure that bird’s nests or other blockages have not occurred during the off season.
Ash disposal
Empty the ashpan on a daily basis or as needed. Ash allowed to build up towards the underside
of the grate will trap heat and could cause premature failure of the grate.
Empty the ashpan according to this procedure:
Open the front door, and use a shovel or poker to stir excess ash through the ash slots in the grate
down into the ash pan. Take out the ash pan, making sure to keep it level to avoid spilling ash.
Dispose the ash in a metal container with a tight fitting lid and move container outside immediately.
Other waste shall not be placed in this container.
The closed container of ashes, now placed outside should be placed on a noncombustible floor or
on the ground, well away from all combustible materials, pending final disposal. If the ashes are
disposed of by burial in soil or otherwise locally disperded, they should be retained in the closed
container until all cinders have thoroughly cooled.
Return the ash pan to its original position in the stove, and close the door.
3.3 Cleaning the Stove and the Flue
Check for soot above the baffle plate and around the flue outlet every month or so to start with.
If the stove suddenly becomes sluggish, check for a soot fall around the flue collar or in the flue/
chimney.
Gasket
The gasket around the perimeter of the door may harden over a period of time. It should be
replaced if it becomes difficult to close the doors or if air starts to leak in around the perimeter
of the doors, causing the fire to become a little less controllable. A morsø rope gasket kit is
available from your stove supplier.
The chimney and chimney connector should be inspected at least once every two months
during the heating season to determine if a creosote buildup has occurred. If creosote has
accumulated, it should be removed to reduce the risk of a chimney fire.

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Chimney sweeping
Inspect the system regularly during the heating season as part of a regular maintenance schedule.
Establish a routine for the fuel, woodstove and firing technique.
Check daily for creosote build-up until experience shows how often you need to clean to be safe.
be aware that the hotter the fire the less creosote is deposited, and weekly cleaning may be
necessary in mild weather even tough monthly cleaning may be enough in the coldest months.
To inspect the chimney, let the stove cool completely. Then, using a mirror, sight up through the
flue collar into the chimney flue. If you cannot inspect the flue system in this fashion, the stove
must be disconnected to provide better viewing access.
Clean the chimney using a brush the same size and shape as the flue liner. Run the brush up
and down the liner, causing any deposits to fall to the bottom of the chimney where they can be
removed through the clean-out door.
Clean the chimney connector disconnecting the sections, taking them outside, and removing any
deposits with a stiff wire brush. Reinstall the connector sections after cleaning, being sure to
secure the joints between individual sections with sheet metal screws.
If you cannot inspect or clean the chimney yourself, contact your local Morsø Dealer or a
professional chimney sweep.
Contact your local municipal or provincial fire authority for information on how to handle a
chimney fire.
Have a clearly understood plan to handle a chimney fire.
If you do experience a chimney fire, act promptly and:
Close the air control.
Get everyone out of the house.
Call the Fire Department.
Annual maintenance
Before the heating season, perform a thorough cleaning, inspection and repair:
Thoroughly clean the chimney and chimney connector.
Inspect the chimney for damage and deterioration. Replace weak sections of prefabricated chimney.
Have a mason make repairs to a masonry chimney.
Inspect the chimney connector and replace any damaged sections.
Check gasketing for wear or compression, and replace if necessary.
Check the glass for cracking; replace if needed.
Check door and handle for tightness. Adjust if needed.

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3.4 Leaving the stove for extended periods
Important:
If the stove is to be left unused for any period of time, clean it out thoroughly and leave the air
control slightly open to allow airflow. Make sure that the flue does not allow rainwater to come
anywhere near the stove; install a chimney cap, but do not block off the flue completely.
These measures should ensure there is a slight movement of air through the stove, and that the
body of the stove remains dry, right into the corners.
Any ash left within an unfired stove can attract moisture like blotting paper. If moisture is allowed
to settle within the stove, rust will form. Rust expands as it takes a grip. This can lead to undue
pressure on the stove joints, and this in turn may result in damage to the stove.
NOTE: It is best to thoroughly clean the stove after the heating season has concluded. Adding a
dessicant, such as kitter litter, into the ash pan helps absorb moisture during the summer months.
Be sure to remove this prior to the heating season.
We hope you have many years of carefree warmth in its company. Some initial experimentation
with loading and running techniques will decide your normal routine. If you have any problems
after this short learning phase, please refer to your stove dealer. Should they be unable to help
for any reason, please contact us in writing at the address on the front of this publication.