northern polytunnels RAISED BED AND HOOP KIT User manual

Watch the instruction video online...
INS197
RAISED BED AND HOOP KIT INSTRUCTIONS

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Before you begin to build, we strongly recommend
you read the instructions thoroughly. Take time to
check all the parts are present and make sure you
have the correct tools to build your fruit cage.
Always wear gloves when constructing as there
may be sharp edges.
Always use the correct tool for the job.
Consider other people around the site, particularly
children and animals.
Take care when using sharp tools.
Keep your work area tidy and organised. A tidy
work area is a safe work area.
Watch the instruction video online...
Follow the QR code on your smart phone or type in to your
search bar www.youtube.com/watch?v=rXhf2GvcxjI
Health and Safety...
Introduction...
Recommended Tools...
RAISED BED
Cordless Drill or Screwdriver, Mallet (optional)
HOOP KIT
Sharp Knife, 13mm Spanner or Socket
Need some help?...
t: 01282 873120
e: [email protected]
RAISED BED KIT
HOOP KIT
SIDE TIMBERS - 1.52M (5FT) or 1.83M (6FT)
END TIMBERS
CORNER BRACKETS
SIDE BRACKETS
PLASTIC CAPS
SUPPORT BARS
SCREWS
HALF HOOP - PLAIN
HALF HOOP - SWAGED
CROSS-OVER CLAMPS
RIDGE TUBES
HOOP FIXING BRACKETS
THREADED EYELETS
POLYCORD
POLYTHENE COVER
CABLE TIES

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CONSTRUCTING YOUR RAISED BED
Position the corner brackets on the end timbers, ensuring the plain end of the tube is flush with the top edge of the timber,
and secure using the screws supplied. Each end timber will require one at each end. For shorter raised beds (5ft & 6ft
long) you can then attach the side timbers. For longer raised beds that have several lengths of timber along each side
you should now join these together using the side brackets. Once the sides have been assembled you can attach the
both sides to the ends. This is best done with the timbers upside down, i.e. with the swaged ends of the brackets facing
upwards (see bottom insert in image 1).
Raised beds with side brackets are supplied with support rods. These slot in to the small corner gap between the inside
back plate and the tube part of the side bracket (4). The support rods will prevent the sides of the raised bed bellying out.
Insert the protective plastic caps on all of the brackets (5). This is easier done with a mallet. These can be prized out at a
later date if you decide to extend the height of the raised bed, or if you add one of our raised bed hoop kits.
Finally, we recommend lining your raised bed with a water permeable, weed control fabric to prevent dormant weed
seeds from growing up through your raised bed. This is simply laid on the floor of the raised bed with any spare material
simply folded in (6 & 7). 3
Once the raised bed frame is assembled, turn it over on to its correct side and place in the required location. Make
sure it’s square and then using your body weight (or a mallet) force the swaged ends of the brackets in to the ground
(see insert in image 2). For multiple tiered raised beds you should now slot the next level in to the base level. Attach the
end timbers first, having pre attached one of the corner brackets. It’s often easier to attach the second corner bracket
when in position as this will allow for any minor adjustment (3). Now attach the side timbers in the same way. Our unique
brackets allow for adding additional levels if you decide you need a deeper raised bed. Additional tiers can be added
either now or at a later date if required.
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BUILDING YOUR HOOP FRAME
If you’re fitting a hoop kit to one of our previously installed raised beds then pop-off the plastic caps from the raised bed
brackets and slot in the hoop connectors (images 1 & 2). The design of these connectors should allow you to fit them to
any raised bed (depending on the width) using a screw.
Attach the cross-over clamps to the plain half of the hoop, at the end where the two halves join (3). Then slot the two halves
of the hoops together (image 4). Place the hoops in position on the raised bed by attaching them to the connectors
which you previously attached to the raised bed brackets (5 & 6). The cross-over clamps should be positioned over the
hoop joint. When the bolts are tightened later they will slightly squash the outer tube so that the inner tube is gripped.
Slot poles into the Hoop Kit brackets, making sure any bolts are facing into the structure to prevent any snagging of the
polythene later.
Slide the central ridge tubes through the cross-over clamps, ensuring the joints are positioned within the clamps. As with
the hoop connections, these fittings will secure the joints when the bolts are later tightened. The ridge should be on
the underside of the hoops (image 7). Once you’re happy that the cross-over clamps are correctly positioned you can
tighten the bolts to secure all the joints. Now insert the protective plastic caps (insert on image 8). 4
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COVERING YOUR HOOP FRAME
Screw in the threaded eyelets (9) in the positions shown in the diagram. This is made easier if you drill a pilot hole first.
Unfold the polythene sheet (or netting) and drape it over the hoop frame, ensuring even coverage on all four sides.
Gather the polythene at each end and pull taught. Pull the polythene towards the threaded eyelets at each end and
gather the polythene accordingly. Take your time to achieve a neat finish. A second person would be helpful at this
stage. Thread a cable tie through the eyelet and zip it around the polythene (11).
Starting at one corner, thread the polycord through the eyelets and over the hoop frame as shown in the diagram. Pull
tight and tie off (12-13).
The polythene along the sides can be raised for access and to allow ventilation (14 & 15).
Eye positions shown in red
Polycord in white
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