OLT 8x12 SpaceMaker Garden Shed User manual

8x12 SpaceMaker Garden Shed
Assembly Manual
Metal Roof
Some of the safety and usage measures you may wish to consider include:
-snow load ratings vary by geographical location. If heavy or wet snowfall occurs, it is advisable to sweep the
snow off the roof(s).
-if the product is elevated, any structural and building code requirements are solely the customer's
responsibility, and should be abided by.
-in high or gusty wind conditions it is advisable to keep the structure securely grounded.
-have a regular maintenance plan to ensure screws, doors, windows and parts are tight.
Customer agrees to hold Outdoor Living Today Partnership and any Authorized Dealers free
of any liability for improper installation, maintenance and repair.
Revision #1
Dec 11th, 2019
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Page 1
In the event of a missing or broken piece, simply call the Outdoor Living Today Customer
Support Line @ 1-888-658-1658 within 30 days of the delivery of your purchase. It is our
commitment to you to courier replacement parts, free of charge, within 10 business days of
this notification. Replacement parts will not be provided free of charge after the 30 day grace
period.
Thank you for purchasing
our 8x12 SpaceMaker
Storage Shed. Please take
the time to identify all the
parts prior to assembly.
Safety Points and Other Considerations
Our products are built for use based on
proper installation and normal
residential use, on level ground. Please
follow the instruction manual when
building your Shed and retain the
manual for future maintenance
purposes.

Thank you for purchasing our 8x12 SpaceMaker Garden Shed (Metal Roof).
Please take the time to identify all the parts prior to assembly.
Parts List:
A. Floor Section
3 - 45 1/2” x 75” Floor - Joist Frames
6 - 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 71 3/4” - Center Floor Joists - Unattached
3 - 45 1/2” x 21” - Floor Joist Frames
3 - 45 3/8” x 74 7/8 - Plywood Floor - Large
3 - 45 3/8” x 20 7/8” - Plywood Floor - Small
10- 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 68 3/16”- Floor Runners
B. Wall Section
7 - 45 1/2” x 75” - Solid Wall Panels
7 - 1 1/2” x 2 1//2 x 45 1/2” Bottom Wall Plates
1 - 45 1/2” x 75” - Window Wall Panel
2 - 12” x 73” - Narrow Wall Panels
Door Jambs & Header
2 - 1 1/2” x 3” x 73” - Vertical Door Jamb
1 - 2” x 3” x 78” - Door Header
2 - 2” x 3” x 6 1/2” - Door Header End Plates
1 - Left Side Door
1 - Right Side Door
2 - 2 1/2” x 1/2” x 72” - Interior Vertical Door Stops
1 - 2 1/2” x 1/2” x 68” - Interior Top Horizontal Door Stop
1 - 2 1/2” x 3/4” x 62 1/2” - Door Threshold
1 - 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 71” - Interior Door Flange
Top Wall Plates
6- 3/4” x 2 1/2” x 32” - Front & Rear Top Plates
(4 pcs angle cut one end, 2 pcs straight cut both ends)
4 - 3/4” x 2 1/2” x 65 3/4” - Side Top Plates (Angle cut edge)
Gable Walls
4 - Gable Half Walls - Triangular Shaped
C. Rafter Section
18- 1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 56 1/2” - Roof Rafters
2 - 3/4” x 4 1/2” x 84” - Roof Ridge Boards
2 - 3/4” x 4 1/2” x 52 1/2” - Roof Ridge Boards
2 - 1/16” x 3” x 7” - Metal Ridge Board Connectors
4 - 1/2” x 4 1/2” x 68 1/4” - Soffits
D. Roof Section
8 - 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 49 1/2” Roof Batten (outside)
4 - 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 45 3/8” Roof Batten (middle)
8 - 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 72 3/8” Roof Batten (center)
8 - 58”long x 39” wide Metal Roof Panels
3 -3/4” x 3 1/2” x 72” Roof Gussets - (angle cut on ends)
4 - 3/4” x 2 1/2” x 48” Facia/Roof Nailing Strips
3 - 13”w x 60” Metal Ridge Cap
Several Strips of Foam Enclosures for Metal Roof Ends
E. Miscellaneous Section
Bottom Skirting
10 - 1/2” x4 1/2” x 45 1/4” - Side Bottom Skirting
Corner & Sidewall Trim
8 - 1/2”x 2 1/2” x 79” - Narrow Trims
3 - 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 77 1/2” - Doorway / Rear Wall Trims
4 - 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 75” - Filler Trim
4 - 1/2” x 4 1/2” x 82” - Wide Corner Trim
4 - 1/2” x 4 1/2” x 44 1/2” - Horizontal Gable Trim
Facia Trim
4 - 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 58” long - Front and Rear Facia
(Angle cut on ends - 2 right / 2 left)
4 - 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 71 3/4” long - Side Facia)
Misc. Pieces
1 - Window Insert
1 -Window Trim Pkg - (1-24 1/16” angle cut / 3 -23” straight cut)
1 - Flower Box Kits
2- Pentagon Facia Plate (for front/rear)
2 -Facia Detail Plates 3 1/2” high
2- Gable Facia Plates 4 1/2” high
1 pc - Spare Wall Siding
2 pcs - Spare Shingles- use to shim door, etc
Note: We recommend you drill a 1/8” pilot hole for each screw, to
avoid splitting wood. The hole depth should be equal to 3/4 the length
of screw.
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Page 2
Note: All Trim, Facia and Bottom Skirting pieces will be positioned rough face out when installed.
Advice: Wood has a tendancy to split when
screwing near the ends of a board. To prevent
splitting, it is always recommended to pre-drill
pilot holes before screwing into these areas.

8x12 SPACEMAKER HARDWARE PACKAGE
2 1/2”
2”
1 1/4”
3/4”
2”
3/4”
1 1/2”
Tee Hinge x 6 Door
Handle x 2
Ridge Board
Connector x 2
Silver
Square Drive Bit
Hardware Kit (Provided)
Safety Glasses Work Gloves
Safety Equipment Required (Not Provided)
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Barrel Bolt
Cane Bolt
Ladder
Screw Gun/Drill Tape Measure
Hammer Wood Clamp
Level Pliers
Tools Required (Not Provided)
1/8” & 1/2” Drill Bits
Utility Knife
Page 3
Finishing
x 300
x 200
x 38
x 260
x 17
x 24
x 336
x 2
Black Headed
Black Headed
Simpson Strong
Tie (Roof) x 8
Single Rafter
Bracket x 6
Double Rafter
Bracket x 4
x 52
3/8”x 2”
Metal Roof Screw
3/8” Nut Driver
x 1

1. Lay out Large Floor Joist Frame and 2 Floor Joists as illustrated above. Position Joists
equally in Floor Joist Frame. Use Small Floor Joist Frame as a template to determine joist position.
Position Joist so flush with framing.
Flush
with
framing
2. When correctly positioned, attach each Joist with 4 - 2 1/2” screws (2 per end). You can find the
Square Drive Screw Bit in the Hardware Kit Bag.
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You can find the
Square Drive Bit for
the screws in the
Hardware Kit Bag.
A. Floor Section
Plywood Floor
Large (3)
Floor Joist
Frames
Large (3) Floor Runners (10)
Plywood Floor
Small (3)
Exploded view of all parts necessary to
complete Floor Section. Identify all parts
prior to starting. Note: Floor Footprint is
96” wide x 136 1/2” deep.
Concrete Pad
(optional foundation method)
Floor Joist
Frames
Small (3)

7. Attach Floor Runners to completed floor frame.
There are 2 floor runners per 136 1/2” side and 5
completed runners in total. Use 6 - 2 1/2” screws
per Runner.
96”
5. Complete all large and small frame
attachments. Screw each completed section
together with 8 - 2 1/2” screws. 6. When completed, your floor footprint
should be 136 1/2” deep x 96” wide.
136 1/2”
8. Make sure Runners are flush with outside
and front and rear floor framing but not
overhanging.
3. Lay out Floor Joist Frames as
illustrated at left. There are 3 larger and 3
smaller Frame Sections. The Footprint for
the floor when attached together will be
136 1/2” deep x 96” wide.
4. Attach each large and small floor joist frame
together with 6 - 2 1/2” screws per section.
Front of Shed
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Note: The floor will be flipped over and floor
runners will sit on your foundation. It is
important to note that having a level foundation
is critical. Choosing a foundation will vary
between regions. Typical foundations can
be concrete pads or patio stones positioned
underneath the floor runners.
10. With Floor Runners attached, carefully flip
the floor over and place on your foundation.
Caution: you will need 2 people to assist
you. Be careful when laying floor down not to
bend or twist floor. When in place, level floor
completely.
Concrete Slab
Foundation
Foundations
9. Complete all Floor Runners.
11. Position Plywood Floor pieces (6) on top of
completed floor joists. The Plywood is cut
slightly smaller than floor framing. Keep plywood
seams tight.
Hint: Use a chalk
line to mark location
of floor joists to
determine screw
placement.
Front
12. With Plywood positioned correctly on floor
framing, attach with 1 1/4” screws. Use screws
every 16”.
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plywood
pushed together
at seam.
centered on
floor frame.

13. Lay out all the wall panels and become familiar with their location. On a Standard Kit, there is
1 Window Wall Panel, 7 Solid Wall Panels and 2 Narrow Wall Panels for the front. Make sure to
position panels right side up so water is directed away from and not into shed. Look at window wall
panel to compare and determine proper wall position.
Front
B. Wall Section Exploded view of all parts necessary to
complete the Wall Section. Identify all parts
prior to starting.
Window Wall
Panel (1)
Side Top
Plates (4)
Angle cut on side
(2 per side)
Rear Top
Plates (3)
Gable
Walls (4)
Door Header
and End Pieces
Narrow Wall Panel
12” wide (2)
Solid Wall
Panel (7)
Front Top
Plates (3)
Window
Insert (1)
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15. Starting at Rear Corner, position a
Solid Wall Panel on top of plywood floor.
The Wall Panel bottom framing will sit flush
with floor framing. Wall siding will overhang
the floor by 1/2”.
Important: Make sure all walls are
aligned in their upright position. If not,
water may leak into your shed. Unsure if
panel is facing up or down? Check and
compare siding on window wall panel to
match alignment.
16. The side wall panels will sit flush with floor
framing at corners, and the rear panels will be
sandwiched between them. Note: Siding will
overhang the floor by approx. 1/2” . Outside 2x3 framing of wall panel is
flush with outside of floor framing
when properly aligned.
Side Panel
Rear
Bottom Wall Plate
14. Starting with Solid Wall Panels, carefully lay panel face down. Position and attach Wall Plate
to bottom of wall studs of each wall panel with 3 - 2 1/2” screws. Position so plates are flush with
framing.
Front of Shed
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17. Position rear solid wall
into place on plywood floor.
Butt both vertical wall studs
of side and rear walls
together and attach with
3- 2 1/2” screws. Screw at
the bottom, middle and top
of stud to secure properly.
Rear Wall Panels
Rear Solid Wall
Side Solid Wall
18. With the corner wall
attachment complete, position
rear wall so bottom 2x3 wall
framing is sitting flush with
floor framing. Wall siding
should overhang floor by
approximately 1/2”. When
positioned correctly, add a
second rear wall panel and
attach both rear wall panel
studs together as per Step 17.
Rear Solid Wall
2x3 wall framing flush
with floor framing.
Be sure that
rear wall panels
fit between the
side wall panels
(sandwiched)
Side Wall Panel
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Do Not Attach Walls To
Floor Until Step 26
Optional - Caulking
seams will help prevent
moisture from entering
your shed. Caulking
not included in kit.

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19. Locate Window Inserts for Regular Window Walls. Before installing, dab caulk in siding channel
on both sides of window opening. This will prevent water from getting in behind window. Position window
in cavity and secure with 8 - 1 1/4” screws. Caulk gap between siding and window at top. This requires a
large amount of caulking but is important to fill. Later, Window Trims will be installed to hide caulking.
Complete Window Inserts as walls are erected or complete in Step 25.
Dab
caulk in siding
channel on both
sides of window.
Run
caulk in siding
gap at top. Requires
a large amount.
19a. Position Window Trim around window doing a dry run first and attach with 4 - 1 1/2” finishing
nails per piece. There are two Trim Kits (Regular / Narrow). The regular window kit = 1x 24 1/16” = top
(angle cut on ends) / 3 x 23” = Sides & Bottom. Narrow window kit = 1 x 19 7/8” Top, 2 x 21 7/16” Sides,
1 x 18 3/4” Bottom. Window trim has a small dado on reverse face. Outside flange of window will
roughly sit in the dado to give a better fit.
Trim dado
sits in flange.
Note: We recommend you wait
to install the windows last, so
they don’t get damaged during
construction.

20. Next, complete all side wall panel attachments. Typically, Window Wall Panel is positioned in
middle of side. Attach wall studs together as per Step 17.
21. Complete all remaining side wall attachments. Attach wall studs together as per Step 17.
Front of Shed
Wall panel will sit flush
with floor framing at
front of shed.
Front of Shed
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22. Complete both Narrow Wall attachments making sure 2x3 wall framing is flush with floor framing,
and siding of wall is overhanging the floor by approximately 1/2”.
23.There are 2 - 6 1/2” Door Header End Plates. Align dado cut on top facing outward and flush to
inside of wall framing. Attach each with 2 - 2 1/2” screws as illustrated above.
24. Position Door Header (78”long) with dado cut facing outwards between End Plates. Push walls
together so joints are tight together. Secure Header to Narrow Wall framing with 2 - 2 1/2” screws per
side.
Sits flush with inside
of wall framing
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Make sure joints are
tight. Push walls in if
required.
Dado cut facing to the
top and outwards.

25. When all walls are attached together, check alignment
with the floor. Bottom wall framing should sit flush with
outside of floor framing. Confirm 67” wide door opening at
bottom. When positioned correctly, fasten bottom wall plates
to floor using 4 - 2 1/2” screws per wall panel.
26. Position Front Top Plates on
top of wall studs so they are flush on
the inside with Door Header. There
are 3 pieces of Front Top Plates
(2 end plates, angle cut on 1 end, and
1 middle plate, straight cut on both
ends). Together, the plates should be
centered evenly on the wall left to
right. Attach by screwing down into
Door Header with 4 - 2” screws.
Angle cut on ends.
Top Plates should be flush
with inside of wall framing.
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Confirm 67” Wide Door Opening at Bottom
Caulking
Optional - Caulking
seams will help prevent
moisture from entering
your shed. Caulking not
included in kit.
Floor
Angle
screws into perimeter
Floor Joists.

28. Position the Rear Top Plates on rear wall top framing to complete. Use 4 - 2” screws per piece.
27. Next, attach the 4 Side Top Plates (2 per side). The side top plates are angle cut down the
length. Once again, position top plate on wall plate so it is flush with inside of wall plate. Side plate
should also be flush with Front Top Plate. Secure with 4 - 2” screws per piece.
Side Top Plate
Rear Top Plates
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29. Locate Gable 1/2 Walls for both sides of the
shed. Align framing and wall siding lapp together.
Screw center wall framing of each piece together
with 3 - 2 1/2” screws. Note: prior to attaching, try
each combination of Gables for best fit.
Notched at top
Flashing
Male / Female
Wall Lapp Siding
Plate flush to inside
of wall framing

30. Lift up a completed gable section and place on top of Rear Top Plate on wall. The rear gable
framing should sit flush with the inside of the top plate.
31. The gable should be centered sideways (left to right) on the top plate. Hint: use a straight edge
to check the angle of the gable framing and top plate. Both angles should line up. Adjust gable
accordingly.
32. Temporarily attach gable to walls and top plate with 2 - 2” screws. Gables may need slight
adjustment in Step 53. Complete attachment in Step 53 with additional 6 - 2” screws. Screw from the
bottom of gable framing down into Top Plate and Wall.
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straight edge
Gable Framing
Flashing to overhang wall
Gable
Framing
flush with
Top Plate

34. Locate both Vertical Door Jambs and
position flush against front narrow wall
stud. The Jamb is 3” wide and will sit flush
to outside of wall siding. When positioned
correctly, secure Jamb using 4 - 2 1/2”
screws. Complete both sides.
33. Complete positioning and attachment of front gable as per Step 32.
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C. & D. Rafter and Roof Section
Metal Roof
Cap (3)
Exploded view of all parts necessary to complete the Roof Section.
Identify all parts prior to starting.
Metal Roof
Panels
(8)
Roof Rafters
(9 per side)
18 Tot.
Ridge Boards (4)
84” & 52 1/2”long
Soffits (4)
1/2” x 4 1/2” x 68 1/4”
Ridge Board
Ridge Board
Metal Ridge Board Connector
35. Locate (1 each) 3/4” x 4 1/2” x 84” & 52 1/2” Ridge Boards and attach together with Metal
Ridge Board Connector using 8 - 3/4” screws. Total Length when connected is 136 1/2”. Complete
two Sets.Position Metal Ridge Board Connector evenly on Ridge Boards.
Roof Gussets (3)
8 - 3/4” Screws
Roof Battens 3/4” x 3 1/2”
49 1/2”(8 pcs)- Outside
45 3/8” (4 pcs) Middle
72 3/8” (8 pcs) Center
Rafter Brackets (10)
Foam
Enclosure
(strips)
Metal Roof
Screws (42)

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38. Attach end of a 68 1/4” long Soffit Board flush to ends of
outside rafters with 2 - 1 1/4” screws per rafter end. Drill pilot hole in
Soffit ends to prevent splitting. Complete both outside rafter / Soffit
connections first. Measure and position interior Rafters as illustrated
above. Attach Soffits to remaining rafters with 2 -1 1/4” screws /rafter.
Flip completed rafter section over. Complete 2nd Rafter section now.
37. Attach completed Ridge Board to ends of both outside
rafters with 2 - 2” screws per end. Measure and position interior
Rafters as illustrated below. When positioned correctly, attach
Ridge Board to remaining rafters with 2 - 2” screws /rafter end.
36. Locate 9 Rafters, 2 Soffits and completed
Ridge Board. Lay out on level ground as shown to
the right. Double up Rafters as illustrated. Screw
doubled up Rafters together with
3 - 2 1/2” screws per piece. Note: completed
rafter section will be flipped over in Step 38.
Ridge Board
Soffits
Rafter
Soffit
68.25”
45.5”
20.5”
20.5”
20.5”
45.5”
45.5”
136.5”
Connector
Board to
inside
Flip Rafter
Sections over
when complete
Important: Pilot
Hole Ridge Board
to prevent splitting!
Important: Pilot
Hole Soffit to
prevent splitting!
Doubled up rafters
2 1/2” screws into
doubled up rafters.
Ridge Board
Important - on 2nd Rafter
Section, following Steps 35-
38 except. When attaching
Ridge Board to Rafter
ends, make sure Metal
Ridge Board Connector is
positioned so offset to first
Rafter Section. (switch
long/short ridge boards).

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1/8” recess
39. Flip completed rafter section over so that
soffit is facing the ground. Locate first row of
3/4” thick x 3 1/2” wide Roof Battens
(2 pcs. - 49 1/2” long / 1 /” wide pc. 45 3/8”).
Start with outside 49 1/2” and place 1/8” back
from end of rafter.
45 3/8”
49 1/2”
49 1/2”
center on rafter
40. Attach 49 1/2” long batten
with 2 - 1 1/4” screws. Center of
double rafter and secure both
ends. Pre-drill with 1/8” drill bit first
to prevent ends from splitting.
41. Attach 45 3/8” middle batten and
remaining 49 1/2” outside batten with
1 1/4” screws to complete the first row of
battens.
45 3/8” middle batten

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42. Locate 2 Center Roof Battens 3/4” thick x 3 1/2” wide x 72 3/8” long. Place batten 13”
up from first row of battens. Center Batten will sit evenly on center rafter (3/4”from edge). Attach
with 1 1/4” screw. Pre-drill first to prevent end from splitting.
43. Attach opposite end of center batten with 1 1/4” screws making sure
to position batten correctly before securing. Complete second center
batten positioning and screwing as described above.
44. Position and attach 3rd row of battens as
per the first row. Third row battens are the same
size as the first row. Place batten 13” up from
second row of battens.
72 3/8” Center Batten
13”
center batten on center rafter
13”
13”
Angle screw