OLT GardenSaver GS84-Slider User manual

Outdoor Living Today www.outdoorlivingtoday.com [e-mail]
Page 1
8x4 GardenSaver Shed with
Sliding Door
Assembly Manual
Revision #1.3
July 14, 2020
Thank you for purchasing
a 8x4 GardenSaver Shed
with Sliding Door. Please
take the time to identify all
the parts prior to assembly.
Please be aware that it is the
customers’ sole responsibility
to acquire the necessary
building permits and or obtain
approval from their local
county, municipality or HOA
prior to purchasing. Generally,
shed structures under 100
square feet do not require
permits in most jurisdictions
in the United States and
Canada.
In the event of a missing or broken piece, call the Outdoor Living Today Customer Support Line @ 1-888-658-1658 with-
in 30 days of the delivery of your purchase. It is our commitment to you to courier replacement parts, free of charge,
within 10 business days of this notification. Replacement parts will not be provided free of charge after the 30 day
grace period.
All structures purchased from Outdoor Living Today are covered for a period of one year for defects in manufacturing
and workmanship. Costs incurred for customer installations are not included.
Failure to use supplied parts included in this kit could result in poor product performance and may void your warranty.
Please contact Outdoor Living Today’s Customer Toll Free Line if you plan to deviate from our written instructions.
- Snow load ratings vary by geographical location. If heavy or wet snowfall occurs, it
is advisable to sweep snow off roof frequently.
- If the product is elevated, any structural and building code requirements are solely
the customer's responsibility, and should be abided by.
- In areas with high or gusty wind conditions, it is advisable to install the structure
securely to the ground.
- Have a regular maintenance plan to ensure screws, doors, windows and parts are
tightly affixed.
Customer agrees to hold Outdoor Living Today and any Authorized
Dealers free of any liability for improper installation, maintenance and
repair.
Stock Code
GS84-Slider

Thank you for purchasing our 8x4 GardenSaver Shed with Sliding Door.
Please take the time to identify all the parts prior to assembly.
Parts List:
A. Floor Section
1 - 45 ½” x 75” - Large Floor Frame (2 Joists unattached)
1 - 45 ½” x 21” - Small Floor Frame (2 Joists ATTACHED)
2 - 1 ½” x 3 ½” x 71 7/8” - Floor Joists
(Steps 1 - 3)
5 - 1 ½” x 3 ½” x 45 ½” - Floor Runners
(Steps 4 - 5)
1 - 5/8” x 45 ½” x 75” - Plywood Flooring
1 - 5/8” x 45 ½” x 21” - Plywood Flooring
(Steps 6 - 8)
B. Wall Section
5 - 1 ½” x 2 ½” x 45 ½” - Wall Plates
4 - 45 ½” x 75” - Wall Panels
1 - 45 ½” x 73” - Front Wall Panel
(Steps 9 - 17)
1 - 2” x 3 ½” x 68 1/4” - Door Header - Long (Dado on edge)
1 - 2” x 3 ½” x 22 3/4” - Door Header - Short (Dado on edge)
1 - 1 ½” x 3 ½” x 73” - Door Jamb - Vertical
(Steps 18 - 19)
2 - Top Triangular Siding Pc for Angle Wall Extendors (L/R)
2 - 45 ¼” - Angle Wall Extendors (L/R)
2 - 9” x 45 ½” - Wall Extendors
2 - 1 ½” x 2 ½” x 42 3/8”- Extendor Wall Cleats
(Steps 20 - 27)
1 - ¾” x 3 ½” x 70” - Horizontal Wall Cleat
1 - ¾” x 3 ½” x 21” - Horizontal Wall Cleat
(Step 28)
C. Rafter & Roof Section
6 - 1 ½” x 2 ½” x 54” - Rafters
2 - ½” x 3” x 48” - Front Soffits
2 - ½” x 3 ½” x 48” - Rear Soffits
(Steps 31 - 36)
2 - Rafter/Facia Nailing Strips - ¾” x ¾” x 48”
(Step 37)
2 - Roof Panels - 51” w x 56” d (1 - Left 1- Right)
(Steps 38 - 40)
4 - 5 ½” Wide x 16” to 18” long - Filler Shingles
(Steps 41 - 44)
D. Miscellaneous Section
(Skirting, Trim, Door, Facia & Misc. Parts)
4 - ¾” x 4 ½” x 45 ¼” - Bottom Skirting (Bevel Siding)
2 - 3/4” x 4 ½” x 45 1/4”) - Front Bottom Skirting (non Bevel)
(Steps 47 - 49)
6 - 7/8” x 2 ½” x 36” - Corner Filler Trims
2 - 3/4” x 2 ½” x 36” - Corner Filler Trims - Front Left (Step 18)
2 - 3/4” x 2 ½” x 10” - Front Top Corner Filler Trims
(Steps 18 & 29 & 50)
2 - ½” x 5 ½” x 79” - Rear Corner Trims
2 - ½” x 5 ½” x 88 ¾” - Front Corner Trims
2 - ½” x 2 ½” x 80” - Side Rear Corner Trims
1 - ½” x 2 ½” x 79” - Rear Middle Trim
2 - ½” x 2 ½” x 88 ¾” - Side Front Corner Trims
(Steps 51 - 54)
Sliding Door Parts
1 - 49” x 74” - Sliding Door
1 - 71” long - Aluminum Door Track with Hanging Brackets
1 - 2 1/4” x 3 ½” x 87 3/4” - Lower Door Track
1 - 3/4” x 3 ½” x 87 3/4” - Lower Door Track Cover
1 - 1 ½” x 3 ½” x 87 3/4” - Top Track Overlay
1 - 3/4” x 5 ½” x 87 3/4” - Top Track Overlay - Front
2 - ½” x 4 1/4” x 43 7/8” - (Bevel Siding) - Track Overlay Sill
1 - 1 ½” x 2 ½” x 66 7/8” - Door Stop
(Steps 55 - 64)
2 - ½” x 4” x 54 1/8” - Side Facia (Angle Cut Ends) - reverse
4 - ½” x 4” x 50 ½” - Front and Rear Facia
(Steps 65 - 67)
2 - ½” x 4 ½” x 51 5/8” - Roof Ridge Boards
(Step 68)
1 - ½” x 2 ½” x 6 1/4” - Front Middle Trim
(Step 69)
2 - Detail Facia Plates (4” high)
(Step 70)
1 - 18” x 22 ½” - Window Insert
1 - 24 1/16” angle cut / 3 -23” straight cut - Window Trim Pkg
(Step 71 - 72)
1 - 45 ¼” - Extra Piece of Bevel Wall Siding - Use if wall panel
siding is damaged or to shim floor or door.
Toll Free 1-888-658-1658 www.outdoorlivingtoday.com [e-mail]
Page 2
Note: All Trim, Facia and Bottom Skirting pieces will be positioned rough face out when installed.

Toll Free 1-888-658-1658 www.outdoorlivingtoday.com [e-mail]
Page 3
8x4 GARDENSAVER WITH SLIDING DOOR HARDWARE PACKAGE
Door Handle x 1
Square Drive Bit
Hardware Kit (Provided)
Safety Glasses Work Gloves
Safety Equipment Required (Not Provided)
Ladder
Screw Gun/Drill Tape Measure
Hammer Wood Clamp
Level Pliers
Tools Required (Not Provided)
1/8” & 1/2” Drill Bits
Utility Knife
2 1/2”
1 1/4”
3/4”
90° Metal
Bracket x 8
1 1/2”
Finishing Nail
175 Pcs.
140 Pcs.
12 Pcs.
245 Pcs.
Black Headed
6 Pcs.
1 1/2”
Black Hasp x 1 Roller Assembly x 2
Torx Drive Bit
4”
15 Pcs.
Torx Screws

Before starting your project become familiar with this assembly manual and determine if you can
complete the project yourself or will require a professional contractor. Please note that certain
counties and municipalities require building permits prior to installation. We recommend to all
consumers that they check with their local county/municipality for these specifics prior to purchasing
any of our products since this is your sole responsibility.
Prior to the product arriving, clear the construction area. Remove all debris; roots, grass, rocks, etc.
Make sure the ground slopes away from the site at least 10 feet in all directions. If necessary, build
up the soil in the center of the site and slope away for the high point to provide drainage. Fill in any
low spots within the perimeter of the site. A slope of 1/8 inch per foot is enough to prevent water
accumulation. We recommend excavating the site 4-6 inches deep and laying gravel or crushed
rock where drainage may be a concern.
What type of foundation should I use?
Patio Stone Foundation : If the ground is stable and has sufficient drainage, you can set patio
stones directly on firm compacted soil. If not, consider laying down sand and then gravel or crushed
rock. Excavate the site making it about 12” wider and longer than the floor footprint. Excavate down
approximately 4-6 inches deep. Lay 1-2 inches of sand first and then fill with 3-4 inches of gravel or
rock for good drainage and support. Most of our sheds and playhouses include floors with support
runners. Support each runner with 4-5 patio stones (less for smaller sheds). Patio stones can be
anything from a mid size brick to a round our square 12” long by 1 1/2” thick stone. Place stones
directly under the floor runners, check for level and adjust height as necessary. Having a solid and
level foundation is the most critical piece of work you can do to make the project go smoothly. Most
of this work can be done prior to your shed arriving!
4x4 Pressure Treated Beam Foundation : You can build directly on pressure-treated beams or
railroad ties laid on a properly prepared construction site as mentioned above. Run beams
perpendicular to floor runners. Use a 2x4 straight piece of lumber on edge and a carpenter's level
to position correctly. To prevent the beams from shifting, secure them with ½ inch rebar inserted
through holes drilled in the beams and driven 3 to 4 feet into the ground. Leave each side or end of
the foundation open to promote drainage and air circulation beneath the floor. Consider using a wire
mesh or equivalent to prevent pesky critters from gaining access on ends.
Concrete - Slab Foundation : Typically a slab 3-4 inches thick laid over a sub-base of 4 inches of
gravel or crushed rock is sufficient but may vary depending on your geographic location. Using
either mix your own concrete or having it delivered by truck, ready to pour, depends on how much
time and effort you have to dedicate to the project. In any event, make sure you excavate the slab
area to a depth 6 inches. This would put the finished slab surface approximately 2 inches above
ground (remember you will be using 4 inches of gravel as your subbase). For example, a slab for
our 8’x12’ SpaceMaker Shed will require approximately 1 cubic yard of premixed concrete.
For more detailed information on how to pour your concrete-slab foundation or any other questions
regarding specifications, foundations and permits, please visit our website at
www.outdoorlivingtoday.com or call our Customer Support Line at 1-888-658-1658 to speak with
a Product Representative.
* Please note that all measurements in our Detailed Assembly Manuals may be subject to change without notice. Please
confirm exact foundation size with Outdoor Living Today if you have any concerns or questions.
What Can I Do Before My Shed Arrives?
1-888-658-1658 www.outdoorlivingtoday.com [e-mail]
Page 4

Plywood Floor
Large Floor
Joist Frame
Floor Joists (2)
Floor Runners (5)
Small Floor
Joist Frame
Exploded Floor Section
A. Floor Section Exploded view of all parts necessary to
complete Floor Section. Identify all parts
prior to starting. Note: Floor Footprint is
96” wide x 45 1/2” deep.
Foundation Material
not included.
1. Lay out Large Floor Joist Frame and 2 Floor Joists (1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 71 7/8”) as illustrated
above. Position Joists equally in Floor Joist Frame. Use Small Floor Joist Frame as a template to
determine joist position. Position Joist so flush with framing.
2. When correctly positioned, attach each Joist with 4 - 2 1/2” Screws (2 per end). You can find
the Square Drive Bit for the screws in with the Hardware Kit Bag.
Flush
with
framing.
Front of GardenSaver
Door Location. Small Floor
Joist Frame.
You can find the
Square Drive Bit, for
the screws, in the
Hardware Kit Bag.
Toll Free 1-888-658-1658 www.outdoorlivingtoday.com [e-mail]
Page 5

3. With Floor Joist Frames positioned together
flush, attach with 6 - 2 1/2” Screws.
4. Position and attach Floor Runners
(1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 45 1/2”) to completed floor
frames with 6 - 2 1/2” Screws per Runner.
Make sure Runners are flush with outside
of floor framing but not overhanging. Make
sure 4th Runner is placed equally over seam
where floor frames meet.
4th Runner
4th Runner
96”
45 1/2”
5. With Floor Runners attached, carefully flip the floor over and place on your foundation.
Caution - you may need 2 people to assist you. Be careful when laying floor down not to bend or twist
floor. Note: The floor will be flipped over and floor runners will sit on your foundation. It is important
to note that having a level foundation is critical. Choosing a foundation will vary between regions.
Typical foundations can be concrete pads or patio stones positioned underneath the floor runners.
6. When in place, level floor completely
before proceeding. 7. Position Plywood Floor pieces (2) on top of
completed floor joists.
Flush with Floor Framing.
Toll Free 1-888-658-1658 www.outdoorlivingtoday.com [e-mail]
Page 6
Front

8. Position Plywood so it sits almost flush with outside of floor joist framing (see Note). When correctly
positioned, attach to all floor joists with approximately 24 - 1 1/4” Screws. Use screws every 16”.
B. Wall Section Exploded view of all parts necessary to
complete the Wall Section. Identify all parts
prior to starting.
Angled Wall
Extendors (2)
Door Header - Long
Solid Wall
Panel (4)
Wall Plate (5)
Door Jamb Solid Front Wall
Panel - 73” high
Horizontal
Wall Cleats
Wall Extendors (2)
Wall Plate
9. Locate 5 Solid Wall Panels and 5 Wall Plates (1 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 45 1/2”). Attach Plates to
bottom of studs of each wall panel with 3 - 2 1/2” Screws. Position so plates are flush with framing.
Door Header
- Short
Note: Plywood is cut slightly smaller than
floor framing. Keep plywood seams tight.
Toll Free 1-888-658-1658 www.outdoorlivingtoday.com [e-mail]
Page 7
Important:
Pilot hole ALL 2x3 Wall
Studs with 1/8” drill bit prior to
screwing. This will make it much
easier to attached together.
Pilot Hole
first.
Extendor Wall
Cleats (2)
Extendor Top Siding
piece (2)
7/8” thick Filler Trim
3/4” thick Filler Trim

10. Starting on side, position a Solid Wall Panel on top of plywood floor.
The Wall Panel bottom framing will sit flush with floor framing. Wall siding will
overhang the floor. Important: Make sure all walls are aligned in their
upright position. If not, water may leak into your shed. Unsure if panel is
facing up or down? Recently attached Bottom Plate is on bottom of panel.
11. Outside 2x3 framing of wall panel should be flush with outside of floor framing when properly
aligned. Note: Do not align wall siding to floor. Align wall plate to outside of plywood floor. When
positioned correctly, locate 2nd Solid Wall Panel and place in corner.
Wall Plate Flush
with floor frame.
Do not align
wall siding to
floor. Align
wall plate to
outside of
floor frame.
12. Butt both vertical wall studs of side and rear walls together and attach with 3 - 2 1/2” Screws.
Screw at the bottom, middle and top of stud to secure properly. Have helper push wall framing
together while securing to ensure tight fit. Note: Drill pilot holes in studs to prevent splitting.
Rear Solid Wall
Side Solid Wall
Do Not Attach Walls To
Floor until Step 30.
Optional - Caulking
seams will help prevent
moisture from entering
your shed. Caulking not
included in kit.
Toll Free 1-888-658-1658 www.outdoorlivingtoday.com [e-mail]
Page 8
Pilot Hole
first.
Wall Plate

13. With the corner wall attachment complete, position the second rear wall panel in place so
bottom 2x3 wall framing is sitting flush with outside floor framing. Wall siding should overhang floor by
approximately 3/4”. When positioned correctly, attach both wall panel studs together as per
Step 12 with 3 - 2 1/2” Screws.
14. With Rear Wall Panel in place, position other side wall panel on floor as per Step 10 & 11.
Rear Wall Panel
15. Secure side wall panel to rear wall panel as per Step 12. Next, locate the Front Wall Panel
(73” high) and position in front right corner.
Toll Free 1-888-658-1658 www.outdoorlivingtoday.com [e-mail]
Page 9
Pilot Hole
first.
Pilot Hole
first.

16. Once again position the 2x3 wall plate so it
sits flush on floor and siding overhangs.
Note: Front Wall Panel is only 73” high.
19. Locate both Door Headers - Long and Short (step facing up and out). Attach long header using
5 - 2 1/2” Screws. Pre-drill right side and angle screw down. Line up header/filler/wall stud as shown
above. Position and attach short header using 2 - 2 1/2” Screws as shown above.
18. Locate Front Left Corner Filler Trims (2 @ 3/4” x 2 1/2” x 36”) and Door Jamb
(1 1/2” x 3 1/2” x 73”). Attach both Fillers with 4 - 1 1/2” Finishing Nails as shown above. Place
Door Jamb against inside wall stud and align with edge of filler. Attach Jamb with 4 - 2 1/2” Screws.
17. When correctly positioned, secure
Front Wall Stud to Side Wall Stud with
3 - 2 1/2” Screws.
Toll Free 1-888-658-1658 www.outdoorlivingtoday.com [e-mail]
Page 10
Pilot Hole
first.
3/4” thick
Filler.
Door
Jamb.

21. Align wall framing of Angled Wall Extendor and Side Wall so they are flush at the front. The
siding for both walls should also align evenly from front to back.
22. With Angled Wall Extendor and Side Wall aligned correctly, secure together from the inside with
4 - 2 1/2” Screws.
20. Locate an Angled Wall Extendor and Top Siding Piece for Angled Wall Extendor (L/R).
Position top siding on wall extendor and align as shown above. Attach with 3 - 1 1/2” Finishing Nails
to top wall framing. There are left/right top siding pieces. Use rough surface side out.
Place finished wall extendor on side wall panel frame. Complete both sides now.
Note: Bottom siding of wall extendor will overhang and cover siding of side wall.
Toll Free 1-888-658-1658 www.outdoorlivingtoday.com [e-mail]
Page 11
Wall framings
flush.
Siding
lines up.
5 1/2”
5 1/2”
Top Siding Pc.
Sidings will
overlap.
Top Siding Pc. for Angle Wall
can also be installed after Roof
is attached after Step 46.
x

23. Complete opposite Angled Wall Extendor positioning and attachment as per Steps 21 & 22.
Toll Free 1-888-658-1658 www.outdoorlivingtoday.com [e-mail]
Page 12
24. Locate one Wall Extendor and place on Door Header with extendor framing flush with inside
edge of Header. Overhanging siding on front of extendor will rest in notch of Header.
1/4”
recess.
25. Attach Wall Extendor to both the Angled Wall Extendor framing and the Door Header with
5 - 2 1/2” Screws.
Pilot Hole
first. Flush

26. Position and secure 2nd Wall Extendor Panel as per Steps 24 & 25. Additionally, attach to first
Extendor with 2 - 2 1/2” Screws.
Toll Free 1-888-658-1658 www.outdoorlivingtoday.com [e-mail]
Page 13
Pilot Hole
first.
28. Align Horizontal Wall Cleats (1 @ 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 70”, 1 @ 3/4” x 3 1/2” x 21”) flush with top of
Rear Wall framing. To help strengthen the Rear Walls, there is a short and a long wall cleat which
meet off-center from the seam between walls. Attach Cleats with 8 - 1 1/4” Screws.
27. With Extendor Walls attached, position Extendor Wall Cleats (2 @ 1 1/2” x 2 1/2” x 42 3/8”)
in the lower section of each Extendor Wall. Attach with 3 - 2 1/2” Screws per cleat.

99 1/4”
Toll Free 1-888-658-1658 www.outdoorlivingtoday.com [e-mail]
Page 14
Advice: Prior to fastening walls and
installing rafters, take time to confirm your
walls are level, square and plumb.
Measure diagonal at top and bottom of
walls corner-to-corner. This should be
approximately 99 1/4”. More importantly,
if measurements are not within 1/4”, your
walls are not square. Adjusting now will
make it easier to install roof section.
99 1/4”
29. Position and attach Front Right Corner Filler Trims (2 @ 7/8” x 2 1/2” x 36”) with
4 - 1 1/2” Finishing Nails per piece.
Attach Front Top Corner Filler Trim (2 @ 3/4” x 2 1/2” x 10”) to both sides as shown
above. Use 2 - 1 1/2 Finishing Nails per piece. Filler trims won’t be visible because
they serve as nailing strips for the Corner Trims which will be attached later.
3/4” Thick

C. Rafter and Roof Section
Exploded view of all parts necessary to complete the Rafter and Roof Section. Identify all parts
prior to starting.
Left Roof
Panel
Right Roof Panel
Rear Soffit (2)
3 1/2” wide
Rafters (6)
Front Soffit (2)
3” wide
90° Metal
Brackets (8)
Toll Free 1-888-658-1658 www.outdoorlivingtoday.com [e-mail]
Page 15
Filler Shingles (4)
Facia/Roof
Nailing Strips (2)
30. To complete Wall
Section, attach bottom 2x3
wall plates to plywood floor
with 20 - 2 1/2” Screws.
Confirm Doorway opening is
44” wide. Prior to securing,
make sure wall panels are
aligned correctly on the floor.
Refer to Step 11. Wall siding
should overhang floor while
2x3 wall plates should sit flush
with floor.
Bottom Wall
Optional - Caulking seams will help
prevent moisture from entering at
seam. Caulking not included in kit.
Pilot
Hole first.
44” Wide Door
Opening (top/bot)

Toll Free 1-888-658-1658 www.outdoorlivingtoday.com [e-mail]
Page 16
31. Locate 6 Rafters, 2 Rear 3 1/2” wide Soffits and 2 Front 3” wide Soffits. Lay out on level ground
and assemble as shown in Illustrations A through C below. Attach Soffit Boards flush to end of
outside rafters with 2 - 1 1/4” Screws per rafter end. Important: Drill pilot holes in Soffit ends to
prevent splitting. Measure and attach interior Rafters as illustrated above. Measure and attach
remaining Soffit/Rafter connections using 2 - 1 1/4” Screws per rafter/soffit.
3 1/2” wide
3” wide
3” wide Front Soffit Board (2)
3 1/2” wide Rear
Soffit Board (2)
48”
21 3/4”
21 3/4”
96”
A. B. C.
Rear Soffit
Mid Rafter Mid Rafter
Rear
3” wide Soffit (2)
Screw center rafters together
with 3 - 2 1/2” screws.
Confirm correct end
of rafter for 3 1/2” soffit
by observing angle.
Note: We recommend you drill a 1/8” pilot hole for each
screw, to avoid splitting wood. The hole depth should be
equal to 3/4 the length of screw.

32. Carefully flip completed Rafter Section over so 3” wide Soffit is facing the front and place on walls.
Note: once again, make sure 3” wide Soffit is positioned to the front of the shed.
3 1/2” wide Soffit.
3” wide Soffit.
Rear Walls
Toll Free 1-888-658-1658 www.outdoorlivingtoday.com [e-mail]
Page 17
Rafter sits on framing
3” Wide Soffit to
the front.
33. Position completed Rafter Section on top of walls. Outside Rafters will sit on Extension Wall
framing and be positioned equally from side to side.
34. When Rafter Section is positioned correctly, both Front and Rear Soffits will sit approximately 1/8”
away from wall siding. This can vary slightly.

35. With Rafter Section correctly aligned, secure rafters to walls using 90° Metal Brackets. Start with
outside rafters and secure 2 Brackets with 4 - 1 1/4” Screws per bracket. Screw into Wall Extension
Framing at the front, and Wall Panel top framing at the rear. Complete both sides.
90° Metal Brackets
Toll Free 1-888-658-1658 www.outdoorlivingtoday.com [e-mail]
Page 18
36. With outside rafters properly secured, completely secure remaining interior rafters using
8 - 2 1/2” Screws. Screw into rafters from inside of Extension Wall framing at front of shed and inside
Rear Wall framing at rear of shed, behind Horizontal Wall Cleats.
Front
Front - Shingle overhang
Inside - Shingles flush
Outside Side
37. Carefully flip Roof Panels over so plywood sheathing is facing up.
Center Rafter/Facia Nailing Strips (2 @ 3/4” x 3/4” x 48”) onto outside of
each panel flush with plywood. Attach with 4 - 1 1/4” Screws evenly spaced.
The Rafter/Facia Nailing Strip provides for a greater nailing surface later when
you attach side facia.
Rafter/Facia Nailing Strip.
Outside - Shingle overhang

38. Correctly orientate Left Side Roof Panel, with shingles overhanging plywood on the side of the
shed and flush with plywood to the middle. Place on rafters with rear of plywood just about flush with
rafter ends but just slightly recessed. Doing so allows Rear Facia to sit better.
Shingles overhang
plywood on outside.
Rear of plywood
1/8” recessed
with rafter end.
Plywood flush
with shingles
on inside.
39. For correct Roof Panel position, align panel so plywood sits evenly on Center Rafters. Complete
both roof Panels.
Roof Panel
centered on
rafter.
Roof Seam.
40. With Roof Panels aligned, screw panels down to center rafters with 2 - 2 1/2” Screws in Bottom
Row of Shingles Only (1 screw per panel).
Screw Bottom Row
of Shingles ONLY for
now. Screw on angle
away from shingle
edge to prevent it
from cracking.
Toll Free 1-888-658-1658 www.outdoorlivingtoday.com [e-mail]
Page 19
Push tight together.

41. To cover roof seam, slide one Filler Shingle
(5 1/2” wide) up and underneath second shingle
row. Push or bang filler carefully with a hammer
until evenly spaced and butt is even with other 1st
row of shingles.
43. Slide 2nd Filler Shingle up and underneath fourth shingle row. Follow Steps 41 - 42 to align and
attach.
Toll Free 1-888-658-1658 www.outdoorlivingtoday.com [e-mail]
Page 20
42. Screw first filler shingle down to rafters using 1 - 2 1/2” Screw per panel (2 in total). Screw on
slight angle and make sure to screw into rafter. Screw slightly above 3rd row of shingles (exposure
line).This way, the screw will get covered up when you install your 2nd Filler Shingle and will prevent
leaking.
Tip
Butt - thicker.
1st Shingle Row
2nd Shingle Row
Attach above
the exposure
line.
Exposure Line.
3rd Shingle Row
2nd Filler
Shingle.
4th Shingle Row