PEUGEOT 404 Instruction manual

Peugeot 4O4 1960-75 Autobook
By Kenneth Ball
Associate Member, Guild of Motoring Writers
and the Autobooks Team of TechnicalWriters
Peugeot 4O4, 1618cc, 1960-75
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=Autobooks Ltd. Golden Lane Brighton BN1 2OJ England

The AUTOBOOK series of Workshop Manuals
is the largest in the world and covers the
majority of British and Continental motor cars,
as well as the majority of Japanese and
Australian models.
Whilst every care has been taken to ensure
correctness of information it is obviously not
possible to guarantee complete freedom from
errors or omissions or to accept liability arising
from such errors or omissions,

CONTENTS
Introduction
Acknowledgement
Chapter 1 The Engine I
Chapter 2 The Fuel System 23
Chapter 3 The lgnition System 31
Chapter 4 The Cooling System 37
Chapter 5 The Clutch 43
Chapter 6 The Gearbox or Transmission 51
Chapter 7 Propeller Shaft, Rear Axle,
Rear Suspension 65
Front Suspension and Hubs 69
The Steering Gear 77
The Braking System 83
The Electrical System 95
The Bodywork 105
112
Chapter 8
Chapter 9
Chapter 10
Chapter 11
Chapter 12
Appendix

tsBN 0 85147 591 4
First Edition 1970
Reorinted 1970
Second Edition. Íullv revised 1972
Reorinted 1973
Third Edition, fully revised 1973
Fourth Edition, fullv revised 1974
Fifrh Edition, fully revised 1975
Reorinted 1978
@Autobooks Ltd 1978
All rights reserved. No part oÍ this publication may be
reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in
any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical,
photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior
permission oÍ Autobooks Ltd.
995
Printed in Brighton England Íor Autobooks Ltd by G. Beard and Son Ltd
Bound in Hove England for Autobooks Ltd by Jilks Ltd D

ACKNOWTEDGEM ENT
My thanks are due to Peugeot for their unstinted co-operation and also for
supplying data and illustrations.
Considerable assistance has also been given by owners, who have discussed
their cars in detail, and I would like to express my gratitude for this invaluable
advice and help.
Kenneth Ball
Associate Member, Guild of Motoring Writers
Ditchling Sussex England.

INTRODUCTION
This do-it-yourself Workshop Manual has been specially written for the owner
who wishes to maintain his vehicle in first class condition and to carry out the
bulk of his own servicing and repairs. Considerable savings on garage charges
can be made, and one can drive in safety and confidence knowing the work has
been done properly.
Comprehensive step-by-step instructions and illustrations are given on most
dismantling, overhauling and assembling operations. Certain assemblies require
the use oÍ expensive special tools, the purchase of which would be unjustified.
In these cases information is included but the reader is'recommended to hand
the unit to the agent for attention.
Throughout the Manual hints and tips are included which will be found
invaluable, and there is an easy to Íollow fault diagnosis at the end of each
chapter.
Whilst every care has been taken to ensure correctness of inÍormation it is
obviously not possible to guarantee complete freedom from errors or omissions'
or to accept liability arising from such errors or omissions.
Instructions may refer to the righthand or lefthand sides of the vehicle or the
components. These are the same as the righthand or lefthand oÍ an observer
standing behind the vehicle and looking Íorward.

CHAPTER 1
TH E ENGI NE
i1
:2
:3
i4
:5
:6
i7
:8
:9
:10
Description
Working on engine in the car
Removing the engine
Removing and replacing the cylinder head
Servicing the head and valve gear
Removing valve timing gear and camshaft
Replacing valve timing gear and camshaft
Removing and reÍitting the oil pump
Removing clutch and flywheel
Splitting big-ends, removing rods and
pistons
1 :1 Description
The engine used in the Peugeot 404 is a Íour cylinder
in-line, water-cooled unit with overhead valves operated
by pushrods from a side mounted camshaft, which is
chain driven from the crankshaft sprocket.
Cubic capacity is 1618cc obtained from a bore and
stroke oí 84 mm and 73 mm respectively. The type number
was XC when introduced but with periodic modification
this became type XC7 in 1970.
All engines have wet cylinder liners made of centri-
fugal cast iron and a light alloy'alpax type'cylinder head
with offset spherical cap-shaped combustion chambers.
The valve guides and seats are made of special cast rron
and are removable.
The valves are made of chromium nickel steel with a
hard chrome plating on their bearing lengths. Each valve
is held by an inner and outer spring which are identical
for inlet or exhaust valves.
The Íorged steel crankshaft rests on three main bearings
in the XC engines, and on five main bearings in the XC5
and later engines. The longitudinal play is limited by two
thrust flanges on either side of the rear main bearing.
All models are equipped with an electro-magnetic
cooling fan that disconnects itselÍ automatically when
the water temoerature rs low. The fan cuts itself out when
the temperatuÍe drops to 68"C and cuts in again at 82oC.
P404
1 :1 1 Piston rings and gudgeon pins
1 :12 Removing and replacing crankshaft and
main bearings
1 :13 Oil f ilter
1 :14 Reassembling stripped engine
1 :15 Replacing engine in the car
1 :1 6 Rocker clearance adjustment
1 :17 Closed crankcase ventilation
1 :18 Fault diagnosis
The carburetter is a Solex 32 PBICA on all XC engines
and early XC5 engines with a Solex 34 PBICA on later
XC5 installations.
The drive from the engine is transmitted through a
single dry plate clutch. The clutch thrust bearing is made
oÍ graphite and must be lubricated every 1900 miles
with 1 cc of engine oil.
When fitted into the car the engine is tilted at an angle
of 45 deg. to the right. At the same time it slants down-
wards at the rear to lower the drive line. This in turn
lowers the bonnet line and the centre of gravity. To the
owner it has the great advantage of bringing all the
engine accessories, the carburetter, generator, distributor
and fuel pump onto the'up'side oÍ the engine making
them all easily accessible. The one exception is the spark
plugs which are somewhat shrouded,
1 :2 Working on engine in car
lf the owner is not a skilled automobile engineer it is
suggested that before starting work he should read the
'Hints on Maintenance and Overhaul' to be found at the
end of this manual. The need for cleanliness must be
stressed and the operator will save himself much time

and trouble by carrying out operations in an orderly
manner, and by marking each part beÍore dismantling
to Íacilitate easier reassembly. AIways use the approved
grades of lubricant.
The operations oÍ removing the water pump, distri-
butor, caíburetter, cylinder head. clutch and transmission
and the adjustment oÍ the timing chain can all be carried
out without removing the engine Írom the car.
For working underneath the car it is often helpful to
have the car raised on jacks or blocks. Any supports
must be firmly based and not likely to collapse or
serious injury could result.
1 :3 Removing the engine
Before starting to disconnect the engine drain the
cooling system. lÍ antiÍreeze has been used collect the
coolant in a clean container and save Íor reÍilling on
comoletron.
Disconnect and remove the engine in the following
manner:
1 Disconnect the baltery.
2 Remove the windshield washer jets, the bonnet, the
starting handle and the windshield washer reservoir.
3 Remove the carburetter arr cleaner, the ignition cojl,
the battery and the town horn. The engine is now
easily accessible and a view oÍ the engine with the
bonnet removed is shown in FIG 1 :2.
4 Disconnect the radiator hoses, the carburetter heating
hose and the car heating hoses.
5 Disconnect and remove the radiator and heatrno
system Íeturn hose.
6 Remove the two starter to clutch housing attachment
screws.
7 Disconnect the choke and accelerator controls.
B Disconnect the various electrical leads Írom the
engine including the starter, generator, cooling fan
switch and oressure switch.
v
10
11
12
13
14
lc
Remove the fuel line Írom the oil breather.
Remove the clutch housing coverplates.
Remove the two bolts connecting the exhaust pipe
to the exhaust manifold.
From underneath the car remove the bolt holding the
exhaust pipe clamp to the transmission housing.
Support the bellhousing and remove the three Allen
bolts holding the bellhousing to the engine.
Attach hoisting gear to the engine and support the
weight of the engine.
Remove the nuts from the engine front mounts. An
exploded view of the Íront mounts is shown in
FIG 1:3 and the position of the engine and the
front and rear mounts can be seen in FIG 1:4. The
rear mount is a rubber support which is integral
with the body. This holds the gearbox and reduces
the effects of toroue.
Raise the engine slightly and move it forward to free
from the transmission. As soon as it is clear, turn the
engine diagonally as shown in FIG 1:5 and liÍt the
engine clear of the body.
1 :4 Removing and replacing the cylinder head
In order to avoid misshaping the cylinder head it is
essential that it should be removed Írom a cold engine.
Disconnect the battery and drain the cooling system,
to
FIG 1 :1 Sectioned view of the XC engine
FIG 1 :2 View of engine with bonnet removed
10
FIG 1 :3 Exploded view of engine front mounts

retaining the coolant for íurther use if antifreeze has been
added.
1 Remove the spaÍk plug leads, spark plugs and
dicf rihr rfnr nrn
2 Remove the top radiator hose. rocker lubrication pipe
and the Ían belt.
3 Disconnect from the cylinder head the lower
radiatoÍ hose and the heater connection.
4 Remove the petrol Íeed and the distributor vacuum
lines, disconnect the accelerator and choke controls
at the carburetter and remove the air cleaner and the
rocKer cover.
5 Remove the carburetter and inlet pipe with the
difÍuser.
6 Uníasten the exhaust flange, the front mufÍler
attachment collar and the sliding lug of the generatoÍ
to cylinder head.
7 Disconnect the electrical leads to the magnetic Ían.
8 Refer to FIG 1:6 and remove the cylinder -head
attaching bolts Nos. 8 and 12.
9 Fit cylinder head guides, 8.01 15, into the holes
vacated by bolts I and 12 and screw in completely.
The guides have a knurled end fitting with a leÍthand
thread which should unscrew as soon as the guide
comes level with the top of the rocker gear bearing.
10 Remove the remaining cylinder head bolts and rocker
attaching nuts and withdraw the rocker assembly and
pushrods, cylinder head and gasket.
11 Lock the cylinder liners by means of the locking
screws 8.01 04D as shown in FIG 1 :7. lf the soecial
screws are not available a large washer may be used
in conjunction with a spacer and a cylinder head bolt.
BeÍore replacing the cylinder head careÍully clean the
joint faces on the cylinder block and the cylinder head.
Ensure that both faces are true. The maximum out of true
tolerance is .05mm. Should this tolerance be exceeded
the cylinder head joint face may be surfaced providing the
minimum overall depth of the cylinder head is not
reduced below 91 .5mm;|.15. The cylinder block.loint
face should never be machined,
The cylinder head gasket is made oÍ an asbestos sheet
set between two sheets oí galvanized iron. As from
September 1960, the setling width at both ends oÍ the
.ioint has been reduced from 3 to 2mm. In addition, the
setting at the rear end has been interrupted, in order to
improve the elasticity of the gasket. The corners oÍ the
gasket are cut in order to permit measuring with a set oÍ
shims the thickness of the gasket under load. Thickness
of the gasket under '1 500 kg load, equal to normal
torque loading oí the cylinder head, should be 1.5mm
+.1.
BeÍore placing the gasket on the cylinder block, coat
the gasket on both sides with light grease or engine oil.
Replace the cylinder head in the following manneÍ:
1 Remove the cylinder liner locking screws and place the
cylinder head gasket in position on the cylinder block.
The cylinder head gasket should be fitted wirh the
marking DESSUS Íacing upwards. Make sure that
the crankshaft is not rotated while the liners are
not locked in position with the retaining screws.
2 Place the cylinder head in position on the cylinder
block (see FIG 1 :8) and Íit Nos. 3 and 7 retaining bolts
(see FIG 1:6). Assemble the pushrods and rocker
assembly and fit the remaining cylinder head bolts and
P404
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FIG 1 :4 Showing the position of the engine mounts
and the angular disposition oÍ the engine in the car
FIG 1 :5 Method of slinging the engine
@o @ e
FIG 1 :6 Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence. Note
that the cylinders are numbered Írom the rear of the
engrne
rocker Íetaining nuts. Remove the guide pins and fit
the bolts 8 and 12.
3 Tighten the cylinder head nuts and bolts in two stages
in the correct sequence (see FIG 1 :6), to the Íollowrng
toroue:
First tightening 29 lb ft
Final tightening 51 lb ft
4 Install all components and connections by reversing
the removal sequence.
11
TIGHTENING SEQUENCE
í+:''o+i