PEUGEOT 404 Instruction manual

Peugeot 4O4 1960-75 Autobook
By Kenneth Ball
Associate Member, Guild of Motoring Writers
and the Autobooks Team of TechnicalWriters
Peugeot 4O4, 1618cc, 1960-75
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=Autobooks Ltd. Golden Lane Brighton BN1 2OJ England

The AUTOBOOK series of Workshop Manuals
is the largest in the world and covers the
majority of British and Continental motor cars,
as well as the majority of Japanese and
Australian models.
Whilst every care has been taken to ensure
correctness of information it is obviously not
possible to guarantee complete freedom from
errors or omissions or to accept liability arising
from such errors or omissions,

CONTENTS
Introduction
Acknowledgement
Chapter 1 The Engine I
Chapter 2 The Fuel System 23
Chapter 3 The lgnition System 31
Chapter 4 The Cooling System 37
Chapter 5 The Clutch 43
Chapter 6 The Gearbox or Transmission 51
Chapter 7 Propeller Shaft, Rear Axle,
Rear Suspension 65
Front Suspension and Hubs 69
The Steering Gear 77
The Braking System 83
The Electrical System 95
The Bodywork 105
112
Chapter 8
Chapter 9
Chapter 10
Chapter 11
Chapter 12
Appendix

tsBN 0 85147 591 4
First Edition 1970
Reorinted 1970
Second Edition. Íullv revised 1972
Reorinted 1973
Third Edition, fully revised 1973
Fourth Edition, fullv revised 1974
Fifrh Edition, fully revised 1975
Reorinted 1978
@Autobooks Ltd 1978
All rights reserved. No part oÍ this publication may be
reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in
any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical,
photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior
permission oÍ Autobooks Ltd.
995
Printed in Brighton England Íor Autobooks Ltd by G. Beard and Son Ltd
Bound in Hove England for Autobooks Ltd by Jilks Ltd D

ACKNOWTEDGEM ENT
My thanks are due to Peugeot for their unstinted co-operation and also for
supplying data and illustrations.
Considerable assistance has also been given by owners, who have discussed
their cars in detail, and I would like to express my gratitude for this invaluable
advice and help.
Kenneth Ball
Associate Member, Guild of Motoring Writers
Ditchling Sussex England.

INTRODUCTION
This do-it-yourself Workshop Manual has been specially written for the owner
who wishes to maintain his vehicle in first class condition and to carry out the
bulk of his own servicing and repairs. Considerable savings on garage charges
can be made, and one can drive in safety and confidence knowing the work has
been done properly.
Comprehensive step-by-step instructions and illustrations are given on most
dismantling, overhauling and assembling operations. Certain assemblies require
the use oÍ expensive special tools, the purchase of which would be unjustified.
In these cases information is included but the reader is'recommended to hand
the unit to the agent for attention.
Throughout the Manual hints and tips are included which will be found
invaluable, and there is an easy to Íollow fault diagnosis at the end of each
chapter.
Whilst every care has been taken to ensure correctness of inÍormation it is
obviously not possible to guarantee complete freedom from errors or omissions'
or to accept liability arising from such errors or omissions.
Instructions may refer to the righthand or lefthand sides of the vehicle or the
components. These are the same as the righthand or lefthand oÍ an observer
standing behind the vehicle and looking Íorward.

CHAPTER 1
TH E ENGI NE
i1
:2
:3
i4
:5
:6
i7
:8
:9
:10
Description
Working on engine in the car
Removing the engine
Removing and replacing the cylinder head
Servicing the head and valve gear
Removing valve timing gear and camshaft
Replacing valve timing gear and camshaft
Removing and reÍitting the oil pump
Removing clutch and flywheel
Splitting big-ends, removing rods and
pistons
1 :1 Description
The engine used in the Peugeot 404 is a Íour cylinder
in-line, water-cooled unit with overhead valves operated
by pushrods from a side mounted camshaft, which is
chain driven from the crankshaft sprocket.
Cubic capacity is 1618cc obtained from a bore and
stroke oí 84 mm and 73 mm respectively. The type number
was XC when introduced but with periodic modification
this became type XC7 in 1970.
All engines have wet cylinder liners made of centri-
fugal cast iron and a light alloy'alpax type'cylinder head
with offset spherical cap-shaped combustion chambers.
The valve guides and seats are made of special cast rron
and are removable.
The valves are made of chromium nickel steel with a
hard chrome plating on their bearing lengths. Each valve
is held by an inner and outer spring which are identical
for inlet or exhaust valves.
The Íorged steel crankshaft rests on three main bearings
in the XC engines, and on five main bearings in the XC5
and later engines. The longitudinal play is limited by two
thrust flanges on either side of the rear main bearing.
All models are equipped with an electro-magnetic
cooling fan that disconnects itselÍ automatically when
the water temoerature rs low. The fan cuts itself out when
the temperatuÍe drops to 68"C and cuts in again at 82oC.
P404
1 :1 1 Piston rings and gudgeon pins
1 :12 Removing and replacing crankshaft and
main bearings
1 :13 Oil f ilter
1 :14 Reassembling stripped engine
1 :15 Replacing engine in the car
1 :1 6 Rocker clearance adjustment
1 :17 Closed crankcase ventilation
1 :18 Fault diagnosis
The carburetter is a Solex 32 PBICA on all XC engines
and early XC5 engines with a Solex 34 PBICA on later
XC5 installations.
The drive from the engine is transmitted through a
single dry plate clutch. The clutch thrust bearing is made
oÍ graphite and must be lubricated every 1900 miles
with 1 cc of engine oil.
When fitted into the car the engine is tilted at an angle
of 45 deg. to the right. At the same time it slants down-
wards at the rear to lower the drive line. This in turn
lowers the bonnet line and the centre of gravity. To the
owner it has the great advantage of bringing all the
engine accessories, the carburetter, generator, distributor
and fuel pump onto the'up'side oÍ the engine making
them all easily accessible. The one exception is the spark
plugs which are somewhat shrouded,
1 :2 Working on engine in car
lf the owner is not a skilled automobile engineer it is
suggested that before starting work he should read the
'Hints on Maintenance and Overhaul' to be found at the
end of this manual. The need for cleanliness must be
stressed and the operator will save himself much time

and trouble by carrying out operations in an orderly
manner, and by marking each part beÍore dismantling
to Íacilitate easier reassembly. AIways use the approved
grades of lubricant.
The operations oÍ removing the water pump, distri-
butor, caíburetter, cylinder head. clutch and transmission
and the adjustment oÍ the timing chain can all be carried
out without removing the engine Írom the car.
For working underneath the car it is often helpful to
have the car raised on jacks or blocks. Any supports
must be firmly based and not likely to collapse or
serious injury could result.
1 :3 Removing the engine
Before starting to disconnect the engine drain the
cooling system. lÍ antiÍreeze has been used collect the
coolant in a clean container and save Íor reÍilling on
comoletron.
Disconnect and remove the engine in the following
manner:
1 Disconnect the baltery.
2 Remove the windshield washer jets, the bonnet, the
starting handle and the windshield washer reservoir.
3 Remove the carburetter arr cleaner, the ignition cojl,
the battery and the town horn. The engine is now
easily accessible and a view oÍ the engine with the
bonnet removed is shown in FIG 1 :2.
4 Disconnect the radiator hoses, the carburetter heating
hose and the car heating hoses.
5 Disconnect and remove the radiator and heatrno
system Íeturn hose.
6 Remove the two starter to clutch housing attachment
screws.
7 Disconnect the choke and accelerator controls.
B Disconnect the various electrical leads Írom the
engine including the starter, generator, cooling fan
switch and oressure switch.
v
10
11
12
13
14
lc
Remove the fuel line Írom the oil breather.
Remove the clutch housing coverplates.
Remove the two bolts connecting the exhaust pipe
to the exhaust manifold.
From underneath the car remove the bolt holding the
exhaust pipe clamp to the transmission housing.
Support the bellhousing and remove the three Allen
bolts holding the bellhousing to the engine.
Attach hoisting gear to the engine and support the
weight of the engine.
Remove the nuts from the engine front mounts. An
exploded view of the Íront mounts is shown in
FIG 1:3 and the position of the engine and the
front and rear mounts can be seen in FIG 1:4. The
rear mount is a rubber support which is integral
with the body. This holds the gearbox and reduces
the effects of toroue.
Raise the engine slightly and move it forward to free
from the transmission. As soon as it is clear, turn the
engine diagonally as shown in FIG 1:5 and liÍt the
engine clear of the body.
1 :4 Removing and replacing the cylinder head
In order to avoid misshaping the cylinder head it is
essential that it should be removed Írom a cold engine.
Disconnect the battery and drain the cooling system,
to
FIG 1 :1 Sectioned view of the XC engine
FIG 1 :2 View of engine with bonnet removed
10
FIG 1 :3 Exploded view of engine front mounts

retaining the coolant for íurther use if antifreeze has been
added.
1 Remove the spaÍk plug leads, spark plugs and
dicf rihr rfnr nrn
2 Remove the top radiator hose. rocker lubrication pipe
and the Ían belt.
3 Disconnect from the cylinder head the lower
radiatoÍ hose and the heater connection.
4 Remove the petrol Íeed and the distributor vacuum
lines, disconnect the accelerator and choke controls
at the carburetter and remove the air cleaner and the
rocKer cover.
5 Remove the carburetter and inlet pipe with the
difÍuser.
6 Uníasten the exhaust flange, the front mufÍler
attachment collar and the sliding lug of the generatoÍ
to cylinder head.
7 Disconnect the electrical leads to the magnetic Ían.
8 Refer to FIG 1:6 and remove the cylinder -head
attaching bolts Nos. 8 and 12.
9 Fit cylinder head guides, 8.01 15, into the holes
vacated by bolts I and 12 and screw in completely.
The guides have a knurled end fitting with a leÍthand
thread which should unscrew as soon as the guide
comes level with the top of the rocker gear bearing.
10 Remove the remaining cylinder head bolts and rocker
attaching nuts and withdraw the rocker assembly and
pushrods, cylinder head and gasket.
11 Lock the cylinder liners by means of the locking
screws 8.01 04D as shown in FIG 1 :7. lf the soecial
screws are not available a large washer may be used
in conjunction with a spacer and a cylinder head bolt.
BeÍore replacing the cylinder head careÍully clean the
joint faces on the cylinder block and the cylinder head.
Ensure that both faces are true. The maximum out of true
tolerance is .05mm. Should this tolerance be exceeded
the cylinder head joint face may be surfaced providing the
minimum overall depth of the cylinder head is not
reduced below 91 .5mm;|.15. The cylinder block.loint
face should never be machined,
The cylinder head gasket is made oÍ an asbestos sheet
set between two sheets oí galvanized iron. As from
September 1960, the setling width at both ends oÍ the
.ioint has been reduced from 3 to 2mm. In addition, the
setting at the rear end has been interrupted, in order to
improve the elasticity of the gasket. The corners oÍ the
gasket are cut in order to permit measuring with a set oÍ
shims the thickness of the gasket under load. Thickness
of the gasket under '1 500 kg load, equal to normal
torque loading oí the cylinder head, should be 1.5mm
+.1.
BeÍore placing the gasket on the cylinder block, coat
the gasket on both sides with light grease or engine oil.
Replace the cylinder head in the following manneÍ:
1 Remove the cylinder liner locking screws and place the
cylinder head gasket in position on the cylinder block.
The cylinder head gasket should be fitted wirh the
marking DESSUS Íacing upwards. Make sure that
the crankshaft is not rotated while the liners are
not locked in position with the retaining screws.
2 Place the cylinder head in position on the cylinder
block (see FIG 1 :8) and Íit Nos. 3 and 7 retaining bolts
(see FIG 1:6). Assemble the pushrods and rocker
assembly and fit the remaining cylinder head bolts and
P404
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FIG 1 :4 Showing the position of the engine mounts
and the angular disposition oÍ the engine in the car
FIG 1 :5 Method of slinging the engine
@o @ e
FIG 1 :6 Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence. Note
that the cylinders are numbered Írom the rear of the
engrne
rocker Íetaining nuts. Remove the guide pins and fit
the bolts 8 and 12.
3 Tighten the cylinder head nuts and bolts in two stages
in the correct sequence (see FIG 1 :6), to the Íollowrng
toroue:
First tightening 29 lb ft
Final tightening 51 lb ft
4 Install all components and connections by reversing
the removal sequence.
11
TIGHTENING SEQUENCE
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FIG 1 :9 Valve spring dimensions
5 Adjust the rocker clearances. After the engine has been
run Íor approximately 1 00 miles, the cylinder head bolts
and nuts should be checked and tightened to the
correct torque. The rocker clearances must then be
readjusted to the correct figure of 0.10mm (.004 inch)
Íor Inlet, and 0.25mm (.01 0 inch) Íor Exhausr.
1 :5 Servicing the head and valve gear
Remove the cylinder head as in the preceding section.
lf decarbonizrng is intended plug all the waterways in
the top face oÍ the cvlindeÍ head with pieces of rag.
Scrape the carbon from the combustion chamber in the
cylinder head before removing the valves to avoid
damage to lhe valve seats.
12
Use a spring compressor and with the springs com-
pressed, remove the valve retainers. Release the
compressoÍ and lift off the cap, springs and oil
dripper caps on the stems of the valves. Remove the
valve aÍter marking it to ensure correct reassembly.
Clean the ports free from carbon and examine the
valve seats and stems.
Valve stems should show no signs of 'picking up' or
weaÍ, neither should they be bent. Regrind the valve
seats with grinding paste if the seats are not too
deeply pitted. A refaced valve should be renewed if the
bearing of the valve upon its seat is less than 1.5mm in
width.
To grind in valves put a light spring under the head and
use a medium grade carborundum paste unless the
seats are in very good condition, when fine grade paste
may be used at once. Use a suction cap tool and grind
with a semi-rotary movement, letting the valve rise ofÍ
its seat occasionally by pressure of the spring under
the head. Use paste sparingly and when both seats
have a smooth matt grey finish clean away all traces
of the paste from both valve and port. Reinstall the
valves, assembling the oil dripper caps, springs, valve
retainers and valve cap to each valve in turn. On engines
prior to Serial No, 4.105.508 dripper caps were not
Íitted but when reassembling the valves after regrinding
it is advisable to f it caps,
When reassembling the valves fit new springs iÍ the
old ones are found to be shorter than the sizes
specified (see FIG 1:9). Each valve is held by two
springs, an outer and an inner and the springs Íor inlet
and exhaust valves are identical. When refitting springs
the end with the closer coils (shown as 'C' in FIG
1 :9), should be fitted on the cylinder head side.
The valves are made of chromium nickel steel with
the valve stem hard chrome plated on its bearing
length. The inlet and exhaust valve on each cylinder
form a 25 deg. angle between them. Two difÍerent
types of valves are Íitted dependant on the date of
manufacture of the engine. On all XC engines and XC5
engines up to Serial No. 5.046.809 the valves are of
diÍferent dimensions to those Íitted to XC5 and later
engines from Serial No. 5.046.81 0. The two different
types together with all relevant dimensions can be seen
in FIG 1 :10.
The valve seats and guides are made of a special cast
iron. Oversize seats and guides are available and to
remove and refit, the cylinder head should first be
immersed in boiling water. Before positioning the new
seats and guides slightly chamÍer the cylinder head, rn
order to avoid damage when installing. The inner
diameter of the new guides is ,2mm less than the
original diameter. AÍter installation the guides must
be rebored to the desired dimension.
ïhe rocker gear shown in FIG 1:11 is made of two
shaÍts resting on five supports common to both shafts.
The rocker arm suDoorts Nos. 2 and 4 are inter-
changeable. lt is essential when reassembling the
rocker shafts that the oil holes should be turneo
inwards. The rockers are made of forged steel with
hardened tips. They are held by eight identical springs
with a free length of 46 mm and are of two identica.
types; Type number 1 (see FIG 1:11),Íor 2 and 4
FIG 1 :7 Cylinder liners locked with locking screw
FIG 1:8 ReÍitting the cylinder head

VALVES
I ntoke Inioke E xhou st
FIG 1:10
lnlet and 1 and 3 Exhaust and type Number 2Íor 1 ano
3 fnlet and 2 and 4 Exhaust.
6 The rocker pushrods are made oÍ a special steel with
cyanÍde treated ends. They are oÍ two types with
different lengths but the maximum permissible out of
round for either is .4mm.
The dimensions for the pushrods are as follows:
Inlet rocker pushrod, total length, 185.6 mm.
Exhaust rocker pushrod, total length, 219.5mm.
7 Finish decarbonizing by cleaning carbon from the
piston crowns. Spring an old piston ring into the bore
on top oÍ the piston and scrape with a blunt tool so
that a ring of carbon is left round the periphery to
prevent excessive oil consumption. Clean off thor-
oughly and make sure that the faces of the head ano
cylinder block are Íree Írom particles.
8 ReÍit the cylinder head as detailed in Section 1:4.
Make sure that all pushrods are engaged with the
tappets and rocker adjusting screws before tightening
oown.
1 :6 Removing the valve timing gear and camshaft
lÍ the cylinder head is removed ensure that the
cylinder liners are set in position with the setting screws.
lf the cylinder head is on the engine remove the spaÍking
plugs to allow easy rotation of the engine.
1 Remove the crankshaÍt pulley and its locking key, the
timing geaÍ housing and the oil rejecting ring.
2 Refer to FIG 1 :12 and remove the base screw ano
lockwasher Írom the base of the tensioner body.
3 Through the screw hole thus uncovered, insert an
Allen key into the hexagonal catch oÍ the piston, 5.
Turn the key clockwise to Íree the sole I from the
pressure oÍ the spring 6.
4 Remove the tensioner attaching screws 3, and with-
draw the tensioner from the cylinder block. Withdraw
the oil filter from the recess in the cylinder block (see
FIG 1 :13).
5 Remove the camshaÍt sprocket attaching screws and
take oÍÍ the sprocket and timrng chain.
P404
Valve dimensions
6 Remove the scÍews retaining the camshaft front thrust
plate and withdraw the camshaft taking care not to
damage the camshaft bearings during the process.
1 :7 Replacing timing gear and camshaft
1 Fit the camshaft taking care not to damage the bear-
ings or the edges of the cams and journals. Secure
with thrust plate screws. Rotate the camshaft to
ensure that it íevolves freely in its bearings. Check
INL ET
FIG 1:12 Exploded view of the timing chain tensioner
Key to Fig 1 : 1 2 1 Base screw and lockwasner
2 Tensioner body 3 Attachment holes 4 Oil intaxe
5 Piston 6 Spring 7 Dowel 8 Pin 9 Rubber sole
10 Chain lubrication hole
FIG 1 :1 1 Rocker gear
13

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FIG 1 :13 Chain tensioner oil f ilter in position in
cylinder block
Key to Fig 1 :13 1 Tensioner base screw 4 Oil filter
9 Tensioner sole head
F.lG.1 :14 The timing geaÍ assembled for correct valve
trmrng
the camshaft end float at the thrust plate. This should
be .003 inch to .006 inch.
2 Fit the camshaft sprocket to the camshaft temporarily
and position the mark on the sprocket at approxima_
tely the two o'clock position (see FIG 1 : Í 4).
3 Turn the crankshaft to bring the key and timing mark
to the nine o'clock Dosition.
4 Remove the camshaÍt sprocket and fit to the timing
chain so that the timing mark on the sprocket ts
positioned centrally between the two copper plated
links of the chain.
14
5 Holding the camshaÍt sprocket and chain in this
position, loop the chain over the crankshaft sprocket
so that the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket
engages the chain at the other single copper plated
link. These timing marks can all be clearly seen in
FIG 1:14. Place the camshaft sprocket on the cam-
shaÍt and install the retaining screws. Check that
the timing marks and copper links are still correctly
positioned, then tighten the camshaft sprocKer
retaining screws to a torque oÍ 13 to 18 lb ft.
6 Check the tensioner. Make sure that the piston moves
freely inside the dowel (see FIG 1 :12), and rhat rhe
filter, the oil intake holes on the chain tensioner ano
the chain lubricating holes on the sole are clean and
clear.
7 Fit the filter into the recess in the cylinder block.
B Fit the spring and piston lnto the tensjoner dowel and
instal in the tensioner body. compressing the
assembly loosely by turning the piston clockwise
with an Allen key Inserted in the hole in the base of
the tensioner body.
9 Place the tensioner in position on the cylinder block
and attach with the locating screws and tighten the
screws to a torque oÍ 3.5 to 5.5 lb ft.
10 Release the tensioner by turning clockwise with the
Allen key inserted through the hole in the base. Fit
and lock the screw in the base. Do not force or
assist the tensioner sole against the chain in
any way during the above operation.
1 1 Fit the oil deÍlector ring on the crankshaft and install
the timing cover, using a new gasket. Refit the crank-
shaÍt pulley and locking.key and tighten the staÍting
grip to a torque of 72to 86lb ft. Peen to lock.
Timing gear adjustment check:
When the valve timing is correctly set, with the crank-
shaft sprocket timing mark on the Íifty eighth link oÍ the
chain, the camshaÍt sprocket timing mark will be on the
twenty-ninth link of the chain. The timing chain ano
sprockets, however, will only take up this position once
in every ÍiÍty eight revolutions of the crankshaÍt.
.FlG 1:15 Timing adjustment check

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tl
It is possible to carry out a quick check of the timing
with the aid of a measuÍing rod, the dimensions for which
are given in the Technical Data at the end of this manual.
Proceed as follows:
1 Remove the sparking plugs and the rocker cover.
2 Adjust the exhaust rocker on number 4 cylinder to
.7 mm clearance.
3 Place the check rod into the spark plug well oÍ number
4 cylinder. Bring the piston {o exactly TDC on the
compression stroke and screw the knurled nut on the
rod down to the TDC mark.
4 Fix a dial test indicator gauge onto the intermediate
rocker support as shown in FIG 1 :15. Bring the gauge
finder onto the cup of the valve.
5 Slowly rotate the engine until the hand of the dial
gauge just starts to move, indicating that the exhaust
valve has started to open.
6 Check that the reference dash EO, on the check rod
comes on a level with the knurled nut upper face.
Should the reference mark fail to apDear in the correct
position, remove the ïiming gear and adjust correctly
as in the preceding instructions.
P404
7 Remove the check rod, the dial gauge and its supporl
and readjust the exhaust rocker of number 4 cylindet
to its correct clearance. Reinstall the rocker cover and
the spark plugs.
The displacement between TDC and the EO mark on
the check rod is 70.7mm. Owing to the slant oÍ the spark
plug well this corresponds to an actual displacement oÍ
68.3 mm for the orston.
1 :8 Removing and refitting the oil pump
The pressure lubrication for the engine is provided by a
classical meshing type oil pump, driven by the camshaft.
The capacity of the sump is 4 litres or .88 gallon, and the
recommended oil for all normal use is Esso Extra [\4otor
Oil 20Wl30-40 or Esso Oil SAE.40. For cold weather
driving change to Esso Oil SAE.20. The flow of the
lubricating oil through the engine and the position of the
oil oumo and Íilter can be seen in FIG 1 :16.
ïo remove the oil pump first drain the sump oÍ oil and
remove the sump. Unscrew the cap nut on the side oÍ the
t'-
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FIG 1:16 The lubrication circuit
15

FIG 1 :17 Installing the oil pump. The oil pump drive
gear must be positioned so that the slot is in line with
the threaded hole of No. 12 cylinder head bolt
cylinder block to uncover the pump fixing screw. Remove
this screw and lift out the oil pump.
To reÍit the oil pump and get correct oÍientation oÍ the
distributor, rotate the engine to bring number 4 cylinder
piston to TDC, Install the oil pump so that the distributor
drive slot in the spindle points to No. 12 cylinder head
stud with rhe large oÍÍset oÍ the drive towards the
engine (see FIG 1 :17). ReÍit pump Íixing screw and
cap nut.
Using a new cork gasket refit the sump.
1 :9 Removing the clutch and Ílywheel
The removal of the clutch and flywheel with the engine
in the car necessitates the removal of the rear axle in
order to first remove the gearbox. This operation is
detailed in Section 5:4.
With the gearbox removed, mark the clutch plate in
relation to the flywheel in order to facilitate correct
reassembly. Slacken each of the six retaining bolts
approximately one turn at a time, working diagonally
acÍoss the clutch, until all the pressure has been removed
from the diaphragm spring.
Remove the six bolts attaching the flywheel to the
crankshaft and remove the Ílvwheel. The ilvwheel and
crankshaft bear location marks which must be lined up
when reassembling.
After prolonged slipping and wear of the clutch
linings, the bottom of the flywheel (see FIG 1 :18), may
be found to be scored. lÍ this has happened, it will be
necessary to true up this surÍace on a lathe. The same
thickness oÍ metal removed must then be removed from
the face on which the clutch mechanism rests, so as not
to alter the spring tension.
Two types of flywheel are in service. On earlier models
the depth P is 25.9mm and on later installations the
depth is 25.5mm. This oÍ course means that there are
also two types of driven disc and the discs are not
interchangeable. Flywheels are interchangeable pro-
vided that the appropriate driven disc is used.
Refitting:
Ensure that the mounting face of the Ílywheel and the
crankshaft flange are clean and free from burrs. Line up
the location marks and press the Ílywheel into position.
16
Fit the retaining bolts and tighten them to a torque of
44 ro 47 lb Íï.
Place the clutch disc in position on the flywheel with
the location marks aligned. Fit the retaining bolts and
tighten to a torque oÍ 11 to 18 lb ft, having centred the
driven plate with a spare gearbox shaft or a suitable
mandrel.
1 :10 Splitting big-ends, removing rods and
pistons
1 Remove the cvlinder head as detailed in Section 1 :4.
2 Drain the oil and remove the sump.
3 Unscrew the big-end bolts a few turns (see FIG
1 :19), and tap them to release the connecting rods
FIG 1:18 Flywheel repair dimensions
FIG 1:19 Removing the big-end cap nuts

top. A rubber joint provides tightness between the liner
and the cylinder block. The installed liners must protrude
above the top surface of the cylinder block by.015 to
.075mm. If the measurement is less than this the rubber
seals at the base of the liners must be reneured.
The liners are identified at the factory by one, two,
three or four notches on the lower rim. These indicate the
liner diameter range and correspond to the Íour sizes
oÍ piston also available. When installing liners ensure
that these grading marks are fitted to face the camshaÍt
side of the engine. The cylinder liners and the grading
marks referred to above can be seen in FIG 1 :20 and the
Íour sets of dimensions are given in the table following:
Liner ref. mark
1
11
111
1111
Liner bore mm
84.000 to 84.01 1
84.012 to 84.022
84.023 to 84.033
84.034 to 84.044
FIG 1:20 The cylinder liner
from the caps. Then completely remove the bolts and
detach the big-end caps. Push the prstons out of the
cylinder bores and withdraw the assemblies. lt may
be necessary to careÍully scrape the carbon formation
away from the top of the cylinder bore to facilitate
removal. Ensure that the connecting rod bearing
shells and caps are kept in theiÍ corÍect sets after
removal.
1 :1 1 Pistons, rings and gudgeon pins and cylinder
liners
The cylinder liners are detachable wet type liners made
oÍ centrifugal cast iron. They are positioned in the engine
by a boÍe in the cylinder block at the bottom and by a
shoulder in the cylinder head gasket joint face at the
Pistons:
The low expansion aluminium alloy pistons have an
elliptical skirt with wide carving at the bottom. The piston
skirts are not split. DiÍÍerent pistons are used on the later
XC5 engines which raise the BHP of the engine'from72
to 76. The diÍÍerences in the measurements can be seen
in FIG 1 :21 .
Each piston is fitted with two compression and one oil
scraper ring, the top compression ring being chrome
plated.
The reÍerencing oí the pistons is made by means of one
letteÍ, A, B, C or D which correspond to the reÍerence
marks 1, 2,3 or 4 on the cylinder liners, and this is
stamped on top of the pistons. Also stamped on the top
of the piston is the mark 'AV' with an arrow. When fitting
pistons this arrow must point towards the front oÍ the
eng ine.
Earlier instcllotion
(Also used on 3-moin beoring engines) Loter instollotion
(76 & 9ó hp engines)
404 . 5.04ó.809
404 J - 4.529.913 404 C
404 L
XC 5 ENGINE
4.497.999
4.85r.595
Compression rotio : 7.6/ 1
and later engines
404
404 J- 5.04ó.810
- 4.529.914 4.498.001
4.851.59ó
404 C
404 L
P404
A
--(-1-+-
V
Comoression rotio : 7 .4/ 1
FtG 1 :21 Piston dimensions for XC5
17

A - Exponder section gop position
B - Flexible ring gop posiiion
FIG 1 :22 'Perfect Circle' oil scraper rings
Key to Fig 1 :22
3 Expander centre section 1 /2 Flexible scraper sections
The four piston sizes are as follows, the diameter
being measured perpendiculaÍ to the gudgeon pin at the
too and bottom of the skirt.
Oil scraper rings, XCS engines:
XCS engines may have conventional oil scraper rings
or'Perfect-Circle' Scraper rings.
The 'Perfect Circle' scraper rings shown in FIG 1 :22
comorise three sections as Íollows:
1 Two Ílexible scraoer sections '1 and 2 made of steel
and chromium plated on their outside bearing face.
2 An expander section 3, also made of steel.
No reference marks are needed for installation as the
parts aÍe all symmetrical. The expander diameter is larger
than the liner diameter so that the expander radially forces
both flexible scraper sections outwards, resulting in
uniform pressure of these sections against the liner.
Because of this, the length of the expander centre section
should in no case be decreased.
Installing 'Perfect Circle' scraper rings:
1 lnstall the expander section in the piston groove.
2 Working from the piston head, install one flexible
section on top of the expander section by first engaging
the flexible section end over the exDander end. Move
the flexible section end 20 to 50mm to the left so that
end B is 20 to 50 mm left of end A (see FIG 'l :22).
3 Install the other flexible section over the bottom face
of the exDander section in the same manner.
4 Check that the expander section ends do not overlap,
then rotate the oil scrapeÍ ring assembly in the piston
groove to ensure correct positioning.
5 Locate the expander section gap along the gudgeon
pin axis to avoid placing this gap over one of the oil
return grooves in the piston.
6 Fit the compression rings and space the gaps at
120 deg. Ensure that the brand mark near the gap is
Íacing upwards.
When installing the pistons into the cylinder liner great
care must be taken to avoid jamming the flexible sections
of the scraper rings.
Connecting rods:
The treated forged steel connecting rods are fined at
the small end with a smooth bushing to provide the
bearing for the gudgeon pin and at the big-end with a
pair of thin removable bearing shells. An exploded view
of the assembly is shown in FIG 1 :23. For replacement
puÍposes the rods are divided into six weight categories
referenced 1 to 6, etched onto the big-end side with
acid (see FIG 1:24). The big-end cap and big-end are
marked for correct matching (see FIG 1 :23).
The weights of the connecting rods, complete without
bearing shells or washers are as follows:
Ref. mark
1
2
4
6
Weight in grams.
591 to 61 0
61 1 to 630
631 ro 650
651 to 670
671 to 690
691 to 71 0
When installing the connecting rods the oiling
oriÍice (B in FIG 1:24), should be at the side opposite
to the camshaft. The connecting rod cap bolts and
washers must be renewed after each dismantling.
Ref. maik
A
B
D
1B
Piston diameter in mm
83.940 to 83.951
83.951 to 83.962
83.963 to 83.973
83.973 to 83.984

Connecting rod bearings:
The steel and lead bearing shells are interchangeable
in order to peÍmit trueing up the crankpins. Four types
oÍ bearings are available, identiÍied by their thickness
measured at the centre oÍ the shells.
Original thickness
1 st oversize
2nd oversize
3rd oversize
1 .81 9 to 1 .825 mm
1 .969 to 1 .975 mm
2.069 to 2.075 mm
2.219 to 2.225mm
Gudgeon pins:
The gudgeon pins are fitted off centre in the pistons
and are held in place with circlips. The gudgeon pins and
pistons are mated duÍing manufacture and must always
be kept together to pÍevent an overtight Íit which could
subsequently cause engine damage. In the case of a
'liners and pistons' exchange, remove the gudgeon pins
from the new pistons which are paired with the cylinder
liners. Lubricate the gudgeon pins and push them by
hand into the pistons and connecting rod small-ends.
Refit the circlios.
To reÍit the pistons and connecting rod assemblies
to the engine proceed as follows:
1 lf the old pistons are to be used, decarbonize the piston
crowns and the ring grooves.
2 Check the piston ring gaps. Locate the piston ring in
the unworn portion of the cylinder liner and check the
ring gaps which should be .4 mm for both compression
and oil scraper rings.
3 Assemble the piston to the connecting rod, so that
when assembled in the engine, the oil squiÍt hole in
the big-end (see FIG 1 :24), is to the side opposite the
camshaft and the AV marking and arrow stamped on
the piston crown point to the front of the engine.
4 Fit the compression rings to the pistons with the
reference marks facing upwards and the chrome faced
ring in the top groove.
5 With the ring gaps spaced at 120 deg., f it the piston
and connecting rods to their respective cylinder bores
from which they were removed. Assemble the big-
end bearing shells and caps, ensuring that the mating
marks between the caps and rods are corÍectly Íelated
and that each assembly is in the bore from which it
was removed on dismantling. Fit new big-end bolts
and lockwashers and tighten the bolts to a torque oÍ
30.7 ro 34.3 lb fr.
1 :12 Removing the crankshaft and main bearings
With the engine removed from the car (see Section
1 :3), remove the transmission (see Section 6), the oil
sump, the clutch and flywheel (see Section 1 :9), and
the timing chain and sprockets (see Section 1 :6).
Remove the sparking plugs and turn the engine upside
down.
First check the cÍankshaft end Íloat with a dial gauge,
levering the óhaÍt endwise. The correct clearance should
be .08 to .2mm.
Release the connecting rods and replace the caps on
their respective rods. Remove the main bearing bolts and
remove the bearing caps.
P404
FIG 1:23 Connecting rod and component parts. Dim-
ensions are in millimetres. lnset shows mating marks on
the rod and big-end bearing cap
FIG 1 :24 Connecting rod big-end
Key to Fig 1 :24 A Code mark Íor weight identification
B Oil hole which must be at the side ooposite to the camshaÍt
when installed
XC engines:
The front and centre main bearing caps are aligned by
elastic location keys (see FIG 1:25), while the rear
bearing cap is located on its studs. The centre and front
main bearing caps can be identified by casting pips on the
side of the cap, one pip for the front bearing cap and two
pips for the centre.
XC5 and later engines:
On XC5 engines the cylinder block has been changed
and a crankshaft with 5 main bearings has been installed.
The bearing caps can again be identified by casting ribs
on the side of the cap as seen in FIG 1 :26, as follows:
Rear intermediate bearing cap No. 2:2 ribs.
Front intermediate bearing cap No. 4'. 1 rib.
The centre bearing cap 3, and the front bearing cap 5,
have the same width (30mm), and are identified by ribs
on their rear faces as follows:
Centre cap No. 3: 2 ribs
FÍont cao No. 5: 1 rib.
Remove the crankshaft together with the end thrust
washers and the bearing half shells.
É
I
(D
a
19

FIG 1:26 Front and centre main bearing locating
dowels
Caref ully clean the cylinder block and all paÍts removed
in the dismantling. Check the condition of the journals
and the crankpins. Both the main journals and the crank-
pins can be rectified up to a definite oversize but this is a
job which must be carried out by a skilled operator with
specialized equipment.
BeÍore reinstalling the crankshaÍt, remove the blanking
screws from the crankpin lubricating lines and flush
through to ensure a full Ílow of oil.
Installing the crankshaft :
1 Install the main bearing half shells into the corres-
ponding location on the cylinder block.
20
CareÍully place the crankshaft onto the bearrngs in the
cylinder block.
Fit the lateral thrust Ílanges, original size, on both sides
of the rear main bearing (see FIG 1:27), with the
bronze face towards the crankshaft.
Install the rear main bearing cap equipped with its half
shell but without the lateral seals. Fit the centre and
front cap complete with their halÍ shells. (On XC5
engines, also fit the intermediate caps). Tighten the
main bearing caps to a torque of 50 to 58 lb ft.
Check the longitudinal end play. Fix the dial gauge
support in a suitable position (see FIG 1:28), and
bring the dial gauge sender to rest on the end of the
crankshaft.
Push the crankshaft Íully forward and take a reading
of the end float on the gauge. The end Íloat should be
between .003 to .008 inch. Should the end float
exceed these figures fit oversize thrust washers which
are available for service.
Remove the rear bearing cap and install the rubber side
joints on each side oÍ the bearing cap. Fit the specia
tool No. 801102 to compress the joints, use oil to
lubricate the assembly and install the assembly in
position on the block (see FIG 1 :29).
FIG 1 :27 Crankshaft thrust washers at the rear main
bearing
\
FIG 1 :28 Method oÍ checking crankshaÍt end float
FIG 1 :25 Front and centre locating dowels

B Fit the bearing cap screws finger tight and withdraw
the assembly tool. Tighten the cap screws to the
specified toroue of 50 to 58 lb ft.
9 Cut off the rubber side seals .020 inch above the
crankcase face.
1 :13 Oil f ilter
Clean oil for lubrication of the engine is provided by the
oil Íilter, which is Íitted in an horizontal position between
the pump and the lubrication circuit (see FIG 1 :16).
The filter body is made of light alloy and is Íitted with a
cleanable cartridge which should be cleaned at each
occasion of draining the sump. The capacity oÍ the filter
is approximately 1 pint.
On later cars an'Easi-change', or Lockheed, disposable
Íilter cartridge is used. This should be changed every 6000
miles (10,000 km).
The pressure switch, which is fitted onto the f ilter body,
switches oÍf the red tell-tale light on the Íacia panel as
soon as the oil pressuÍe reaches 1 O lblsq in.
1 :14 Reassembling stripped engine
All dismantling and reassembling operations have been
given in the various Sections, so that it is simply a matter
of tackling the tasks in the correct sequence. Always Íit
new gaskets, which are normally available in complete
sets, and lubricate all running surfaces with clean
engine oil.
First Íit the crankshaft, followed by the cylinder liners,
iÍ removed, and then the piston and connecting rod
assemblies. Next fit the timing gear housing support, the
camshaÍt and the timing gear.
lnstall the flywheel and clutch, then the oil pump,
ensuring correct meshing to enable the distributor to be
timed. Install the oil sumo.
FIG 1 :31 Showing
ventilation svstem the crankcase
Key to Fig 1 :31 1 Calibrated oriÍice 2 Opening
{ inch 3 Air intake 4 Carburetter Ílange 5 Air cleaner
6 Carburetter 7 Inlet maniÍold 8 Seoarator and intake
Írom crankcase
Next fit the valve pushrods and the cylinder head and
then all the external components, i.e. Petrol pump, oil
filter, carburetter, distributor, generator, starter and fan
belt. Fill the engine with oil.
1 :15 Replacing engine in the car
1 Sling the engine and position it diagonally in the
engine compartment as Íor removal.
2 Align the gearbox drive shaft to engage with the
splines in the clutch driven plate and slide the engine
rearwards until the clutch housing is positioned on the
rear oÍ the engine. Fit the attachment screws.
3 Lower the engine onto the front mountings and Íit the
mounting attachment nuts.
4 Install the engine components and connections
removed during engine removal, by reversing the
removal procedure.
5 ReÍill the cooling system, check the engine oil, install
and align the bonnet.
1 :16 Rocker clearance adjustment
ïo obtain correct rocker clearances the engine must be
cold when adjustment is made. Adjustment is carried
out in the normal way, i.e. with a Íeeler gauge inserted
between the valve stem and the rocker arm or tappet and
screwing in or out on the adjusting screw.
The rocker clearances should be set at .004 inch for
inlet and.01 0 inch for exhaust. To save time and many
turns of the engine it will be found that the following table
used in conjunction with FIG 1 :30 will be useful.
the operation cÍ
FIG 1 :29 Fitting rear main bearing cap seals
Eno ftc tzo E,o
Itl It1 La La
P404
FIG 1:30 lnlet and exhaust valve numbering
21