Printed Solid Taz 6 Enclosure User manual

Taz 6 Enclosure 2017 Version 2.1 Page 1of 12
Taz 6 Enclosure
This work is licensed under a Creative
Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0
International License. Created by
David Randolph and printedsolid.com

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What’s Included?
2 Part A: Front and rear panel
2 Part B: Top mount with holes
1 Part C: Rear Left Stiffener
2 Part D: Front Stiffener
2 Part E: Top Stiffener
1 Part F: Rear Middle
1 Part G: Rear Shelf
1 Part H: Rear Bottom
1 Part I: Rear Right
1 Part J: Rear Left
1 Part K: Front Left
1 Part L: Front Right
1 Part M: Front Middle
1 Part N: Front Shelf
1 Part O: Front Bottom
1 Part P: Spool Top
1 Part Q: Machine Side
1 Part R: Rear Right Stiffener
1 Part S: Spool Top Support
70 M3-10mm bolts
70 M3 square nuts
4 M4-8mm bolts
4 M4 square nuts
8 M5-20mm bolts
Tools Needed
3mm hex driver
4mm hex driver
Optional: Painters tape
Optional: Flat razor
Optional: Zip Tie
Time Required
2-3 hours based on skill level
WARNINGS
Do not over tighten the screws in the hood. Tighten them just enough to hold without moving around.
You can crack the acrylic very easily by over tightening.
If you do crack a panel please contact printedsolid.com for replacements at a discounted rate.
The enclosure is made from extruded acrylic for optical clarity that helps reduce visual distortions. Do not use
household cleaners to clean the Acrylic. Use dish soap or hand wash and do not scrub or use any abrasives.

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Step 1:
Print out 2 left brackets, 1 right bracket and one left cable bracket located at
http://www.printedsolid.com/enclosures for a total of 4 pieces. The left cable bracket allows for clearance of
the extruder cable bundle. PLA filament with a layer height of at least .2 with 4 or more shells and at least 20%
infill is recommended. Supports are needed for this print however they are minimal.
Step 2:
Install the brackets on the front and rear of the printer. Using a 3mm hex driver to remove the existing screws
and install the brackets using the included M5-20mm bolts and a 4mm hex driver. While there is still support
for the top of the printer with the screws removed it is recommended to do one bracket at a time. Note that
the original nut in the extrusion will fall down once you remove the screw. Don’t worry if this happens, you
will need to move the screw back into place. A great way to prevent this is to fold over a zip tie and slide it into
the slot to hold the nut in place.

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Step 3:
Note the letters on the individual acrylic pieces and then remove the protective covering from both sides of
the pieces. While the front and back covers share similar pieces there are some differences. The sides, top and
bottom are thicker for the front than for the back. This is to accommodate the build plate while keeping the
enclosure total size at the tightest dimensions. It may be easier to remove the protective coverings as you do
each part if you feel more comfortable working that way but it is important that the protective covering be
removed before assembly of each part since they interlock into one another preventing you from removing it
later. Use either your finger nail or a flat razor to pull up on the the edge of the protective covering. Take your
time and pull slowly to get any additional stray pieces.
Step 4:
Warning!!! Remove the SD card from the printer before continuing. Gently set the printer on its
side with the control box flat on the work surface. It is a good idea to lay down a towel or something soft to
prevent scratching the side of the printer. Install Part Q on the side using the 4 M4-8mm bolts and M4 square
nuts. Slide 2 square nuts in from the bottom of the machine into the extrusion on each side. Tighten down the
bolts just enough to prevent slippage. The cut outs on the sides allow for the arm and filament guide to
completely fold up or down.

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Step 5:
We have included two different versions of part P. One version has 2 screw holes and is joined with Part S
using 2 M3-10 bolts and 2 M3 square nuts. This version is for users who prefer to use a top mounted spool
option. The other version is for those who prefer the side spool mounted option. Either option sits onto of the
machine and can be lifted off for easy access.
Part P option for side mounted spool Part P option for top mounted spool

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Step 6:
Attach the front bottom (Part O) to the front panel (Part A). The square nut sits in the slot and the 2
M3-10mm bolt goes through the front panel into the square nut. If you find it difficult to keep the nut in place
while you insert the bolt you can use some painters tape to hold the nut in place for assembly. DO NOT OVER
TIGHTEN THE BOLTS. Tighten them by hand and slightly more than 1/8th of a turn with a hex driver is enough
to hold everything together.
Part O Part A
Step 7:
Attach the front left (Part K) to the front panel (Part A) and front bottom (Part O). Then attach the front
right (Part L) in the same manor. The square nuts sits in the slot and the M3-10mm bolts goes through the
hole and into the square nut. If you find it difficult to keep the nut in place while you insert the bolt you can
use some painters tape to hold the nut in place for assembly. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE BOLTS. Tighten
them by hand and slightly more than 1/8th of a turn with a hex driver is enough to hold everything together.
Part K Part L

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Step 8:
Attach the 2 front stiffeners (Part D) to the front panel (Part A) and front bottom (Part O). The square
nuts sits in the slot and the M3-10mm bolts goes through the hole and into the square nut. If you find it
difficult to keep the nut in place while you insert the bolt you can use some painters tape to hold the nut in
place for assembly. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE BOLTS. Tighten them by hand and slightly more than 1/8th of
a turn with a hex driver is enough to hold everything together.
Part D Part D
Step 9:
Attach the front shelf (Part N) to the front panel (Part A) and front sides (Part K&L). Then attach the
front middle (Part M) to the front sides (Part K&L) and front shelf (Part N). Note how the front middle (Part M
tucks in behind the front shelf (Part N). Then bolt the 2 front stiffeners (Part D). The square nuts sits in the slot
and the M3-10mm bolts goes through the hole and into the square nut. If you find it difficult to keep the nut in
place while you insert the bolt you can use some painters tape to hold the nut in place for assembly. DO NOT
OVER TIGHTEN THE BOLTS. Tighten them by hand and slightly more than 1/8th of a turn with a hex driver is
enough to hold everything together.
Part N Part M

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Step 10:
Attach the top mount with holes (Part B) to the front middle (Part M) and front sides (Part K&L). Then
attach the top stiffener (Part E) The square nuts sits in the slot and the M3-10mm bolts goes through the hole
and into the square nut. If you find it difficult to keep the nut in place while you insert the bolt you can use
some painters tape to hold the nut in place for assembly. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE BOLTS. Tighten them
by hand and slightly more than 1/8th of a turn with a hex driver is enough to hold everything together.
Part B Part E
Step 11:
Attach the rear bottom (Part H) to the rear panel (Part A). Note on the rear bottom the set of holes on
the inside on just the left side of the picture for orientation. This is needed for the next step. The square nut
sits in the slot and the 2 M3-10mm bolt goes through the rear panel into the square nut. If you find it difficult
to keep the nut in place while you insert the bolt you can use some painters tape to hold the nut in place for
assembly. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE BOLTS. Tighten them by hand and slightly more than 1/8th of a turn
with a hex driver is enough to hold everything together.
Part H Part A

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Step 12:
Attach the rear left (Part J) to the rear panel (Part A) and rear bottom (Part H). Then attach the rear
right (Part I) in the same manor. The square nuts sits in the slot and the M3-10mm bolts goes through the hole
and into the square nut. If you find it difficult to keep the nut in place while you insert the bolt you can use
some painters tape to hold the nut in place for assembly. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE BOLTS. Tighten them
by hand and slightly more than 1/8th of a turn with a hex driver is enough to hold everything together.
Part J Part I
Step 13:
Attach the rear left stiffener (Part C) to the rear panel (Part A) and rear bottom (Part H). Then attach
the rear right stiffener (Part R) to the rear panel (Part A). The square nuts sits in the slot and the M3-10mm
bolts goes through the hole and into the square nut. If you find it difficult to keep the nut in place while you
insert the bolt you can use some painters tape to hold the nut in place for assembly. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN
THE BOLTS. Tighten them by hand and slightly more than 1/8th of a turn with a hex driver is enough to hold
everything together.
Part C Part D

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Step 14:
Attach the rear shelf (Part G) to the rear panel (Part A) and rear sides (Part I&J). Then attach the rear
middle (Part F) to the rear sides (Part I&J) and rear shelf (Part G). Note how the rear middle (Part F) tucks in
behind the rear shelf (Part G). Then bolt the rear left stiffener (Part C) and rear right stiffener (Part R). The vent
on Part F is reversible depending on what side you would like it on. The square nuts sits in the slot and the M3-
10mm bolts goes through the hole and into the square nut. If you find it difficult to keep the nut in place while
you insert the bolt you can use some painters tape to hold the nut in place for assembly. DO NOT OVER
TIGHTEN THE BOLTS. Tighten them by hand and slightly more than 1/8th of a turn with a hex driver is enough
to hold everything together.
Part G Part F
Step 15:
Attach the top mount with holes (Part B) to the rear middle (Part F) and rear sides (Part I&J). Then
attach the top stiffener (Part E). The square nuts sits in the slot and the M3-10mm bolts goes through the hole
and into the square nut. If you find it difficult to keep the nut in place while you insert the bolt you can use
some painters tape to hold the nut in place for assembly. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE BOLTS. Tighten them
by hand and slightly more than 1/8th of a turn with a hex driver is enough to hold everything together.
Part B Part E

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Proper Usage:
You can lift the front or back up and off the 3D printed post. The cutout on the bottom helps to clear
the arms on the bed of the printer. It is normal for the cover to sit on the table and is part of the design to help
reduce the risk of accidental breakage of the top plates. You will also notice the post holes are slightly
enlarged and the front/back covers are slightly larger than the top and side covers. This is intentional to help
prevent accidental snags or breakage after repeated use.

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Congratulations on a job well done!
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