Purenex RD-100 Supplement

INSTALLATION & SERVICE MANUAL
Reverse Osmosis + DI Water Systems
Model:
6-Stage RO+DI system, 100GPD, dual output +tank+faucet
Made in U.S.A.
www.purenex.com

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PRODUCT SPECIFICATION
6- Stage Reverse Osmosis + DI Water Purification Systems
Model no: RD-100 and RD-106
Capacity: Generates 50 to 100 gallons per day depends on water temperature, pressure, chemistry variations)
System includes
•RO+DI unit: 6-stage unit, all filters included.
•Storage Tank (for RD-106 only): 4 gal. pressurized tank with pre-charge pressure of 7~10 psi., powder coated steel
construction with Food Grade butyl water bladder. NSF listed
•Water Dispensing Faucet (for RD-106 only): lead-free, long reach goose neck type, chrome steel, locking lever for
continuous dispensing.
•Hardware: feed water adapter, feed water valve, drain saddle valve, tank valve, and screws.
•Installation & Service manual
System Requirements
•Working pressure: 40 to 120 psi feed water pressure required, if below 40 psi, a booster pump is needed. We have a
RO system with built-in booster pump assembly.
•Working temperature: 100 ~ 40 deg. F ( 37 ~ 4 deg. C )
•pH range: 2-11
•If feed water has hardness level above 300 ppm, we recommend putting a water softener prior to the RO system.
•If feed water has iron, rust problem, we recommend putting a iron filter prior to the RO system.
•If feed water has bacteria problem, we recommend putting an ultra violet sterilizing system prior to RO system.
Filter Service Life
•1st Stage Sediment filter: Recommend changing every 6 ~12 months.
•2nd Stage carbon filter: Recommend changing every 6 ~12 months.
•3rd Stage carbon filter: Recommend changing every 6 ~12 months.
•4th Stage HTFC membrane: Recommend changing every 2~3 years.
•5th Stage Inline carbon filter: Recommend changing every 6 ~12 months.
The filters & membrane used are all standard sizes.
Dimension
•RO unit: Length 15 inch, Width 5 ½ inch, Height 16 inch
•Storage tank: Diameter 10 ¾ inch, Height 15 ¼ inch (for RD-106 only)
•Faucet: 9 ½ inch above counter top (for RD-106 only)
Warranty
•1years Limited Warranty on parts, components. Filters are not under warranty.
Performance
•Rejection rate: 92 to 98% of dissolved solids after RO, 98% to 100% rejection rate after RO+DI
Purification Processes/ Filter specifications
Removes microbiological contaminants like Cysts (protozoan), inorganic/Radiological contaminants like Barium,
Cadmium, Copper, Chromium (hexvavalent), Chromim (trivalent), Fluoride, Lead, Radium 226/228, Selenium, etc.
Ammonia, Arsenic, chloramines, chlorine, copper, lead, nitrate, phosphate, silica, hardness, calcium, magnesium, other
dissolved solids.
•1st stage: 5 micron sediment filter, 2 3/8”. x 9 7/8” height, made by 100% pure polypropylene fibers
•2nd & 3rd stage: carbon filter, 2 3/4” x 9 ¾” height, composed of high-performance activated carbon.
•4th stage: TFC type membrane, 100 GPD, 1 ¾” x 11 ¾” long
•5th stage: DI filter, deionization filter, further removing dissolved solids.
•6th stage: Inline carbon filter (polishing filter, improves taste): 2” x 10”

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Thank you for choosing Watergeneral Reverse Osmosis Water Systems. You now own a superb Reverse Osmosis (RO) +
Deionization (DI) system that effectively reducing most contaminants, organic and inorganic compound, unwanted taste
and odor from tap water. It is designed to transform your tap water into distill water.
Read carefully and follow the instruction in this manual before proceeding with actual installation. Failure to do so could
result in personal injury or damage to the equipment or other property. Be sure to follow any special plumbing codes in
your area.
CHECK LIST:
1. Reverse Osmosis+DI Unit
2. for (RD-106)which includes water storage tank, 4 gallon outside volume (holds 3.2 gallon @60psi)
3. Installation kit consists tank ball valve, drain saddle valve, feed water adapter, feed water needle valve, faucet
assembly(for RD-106) , tubing, tube inserts
4. Installation manual
INSTALLATION KIT:
1. Chrome dispensing faucet
(for RD-106 only)
2. Tank ball valve
3. Drain saddle clamp
4. ¼” tubing
5. tube insert
6. ½” feed water adapter
7. needle valve or ball valve
RECOMMENDED TOOLS LIST
•Variable speed drill
•1/8” ¼”, 7/16”, and ½” drill bit
•5/8, 9/16 open-end wrench, or adjustable wrench, pliers
•Phillips screwdriver
•Utility knife, or scissor
•Teflon tape
OPERATING PARAMETER
•Working pressure: 40 to 120 psi feed water pressure required, if below 40 psi, a booster pump is needed. We
have a RO system with built-in booster pump assembly.
•Working temperature: 100 ~ 40 deg. F ( 37 ~ 4 deg. C )
•If feed water has hardness level above 300 ppm, we recommend putting a water softener prior to the RO system.
•If feed water has iron, rust problem, we recommend putting an iron filter prior to the RO system.
•If feed water has bacteria problem, we recommend putting an ultra violet sterilizing system prior to RO system.
WARNING: Do not use this RO+DI system alone to treat water with bacteria problem or water source with unknown
quality.
WARNING: Do not connect HOT water source to this unit.
WARNING:Incorrect installation will VOID the warranty.

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ASSEMBLY QUICK VIEW (RD-106, follow the photo below, for RD -100 filters are already installed)
Carbon Carbon Sediment
1. Remove plastic wrap on the filters (for RD-106)
2. Insert the filters as shown above.
1. Put upper portion of the unit on top of the filter housing
2. Screw on the filter housing vertically to the filter housing cap
by hand
3. Then use filter housing wrench to tighten the each housing
3 ways to connect to water supply: (1) Connect to faucet, (2) Connect to garden hose or laundry room hose, (3)
Install under the sink and connect to cold water supply
Connect to faucet: You can use the diverter valve to connect to the aerator part of your faucet.
1. Unscrew the tip or the aerator part of your faucet.
2. Connect tubing to the barb connection of the diverter valve by pushing in the tubing
3. Make sure the diverter valve threaded portion has a small O-ring in place.
4. Screw on the diverter valve to the faucet tip. Use pliers if necessary.
5. Connect the other end of the tubing to the RO+DI system
6. Turn on your kitchen faucet all the way up, cold water. The water should come out of
the valve like regular faucet water. Then turn the lever 90 degree to divert water to the
RO+DI system.
7. Then follow the picture below for the other tubing connection. You can put the drain
line to the sink. It is not required to plumb the drain, just let it flow to the sink.
8. NOTE: The size provided is the most common size. If your faucet does not fit, you
can buy converter at local hardware store or choose other methods of connecting it.
Connect to garden hose or laundry room hose
1. You can connect the ¾” garden hose adapter directly to the hose valve or to hose.
2. Just screw on the adapter directly to the hose or hose valve. Use pliers if necessary.
3. The other end of the adapter is a Quick-connect fitting ¼”. So just push in the ¼”
tubing about ½” into the fitting, then it will seal itself.
4. Then for other tubing connection, please refer to the picture shown next page. The
drain line can just run to open drain or to the laundry room drain.
5. You can also use a hose Y-connector to connect to the hose valve to have two outlets,
so one for the system and one for your laundry room washer.

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INSTALLATION QUICK VIEW
•Please follow the color code for connecting tubing to the unit. 4 connections
Color tubing
A Feed water
valve
Orange
or Red
BDI water
dispensing
valve
Blue
CDrain saddle
valve
Black
Model:
RD-100
4 connections
Color of
tubing
A Feed water
valve
Orange
or Red
BDrain saddle
valve
Blue
CTank ball
valve
Black
D Dispensing
faucet Yellow
EDI water valve
Model:
RD-106
white

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INSTALLATION (for under-the -sink installation)
STEP 1: TAPPING INTO COLD WATER SUPPLY
CAUTION:
•The water supply to your RO unit MUST be from COLD water line . Hot water will damage your RO system.
1. Locate cold water shut off valve under the sink and turn it off. Open cold-water faucet to release the pressure, and make sure
there is no water.
2. Put 3 turns of Teflon tape on threaded ends of the angle needle valve and feed water adapter.
3. Determine the best location for putting the feed water adapter. Do you have a flexible line or a solid copper tube? Is the
flexible line with smooth surface or spiral line? Is there enough space for installing feed water adapter? More radius or more
space is required if you first joint the feed water adapter with the needle valve. Is the size of fitting thread the same as the
feed water adapter?
4. You can either joint the angle needle valve to the feed water adapter first, or install adapter to cold water supply line first. It
depends on how much space is available under the sink.
5. For FLEX line: Loosen nut and separate cold water riser tube from faucet shank. Gently bend riser tube so that feed water
adapter fits onto faucet shank. Usethe Existing cone washer (if the existing cone water is badly damaged, use the new cone
water provided in the kit). NOTE: If you have a spiral type flex tube riser, you NEED to use the existing cone water, since
the cone washer we provided is straight, not spiral). Use Teflon tape on threaded parts to prevent leaks. Then tighten the
connection.
6. For Solid Copper riser: Same procedure as flex tubing except you must cut a piece of the riser tube about 3/ 4” to 1” so the
adapter can fit between faucet andriser tube. Use Teflon tape to prevent leaks.
7. Install the angle needle valve to adapter if you have not done so in procedure #4.
8. For connecting red tubing to angle needle valve, put 2 turns of Teflon tape on treaded end. Then pass through the brass nut,
then the sleeve, then put plastic insert inside the tubing, then push sleeve against the insert, then screw on the brass nut.
Don’t over tighten it. But it has to be tight.
1. feed water adapter ½” connect to
base of kitchen faucet
1. buy a ½ pipe to ½” pipe hose
2. ½ to ½” nipple fitting. 3. adapter.
4. your existing faucet pipe
•Many times, it is easier to use the existing
cone washer than using the new one.
•If there is not enough space under the sink
base, or it’s difficult to get to, you can
disconnect the riser from the cold-water
valve side. If the fitting size does not match,
buy size-changing fittings, or buy a new flex
riser with matching sizes.
•Many times, it is easier to buy an additional
stainless flex riser and a ½” nipple to put in
between the bottom of the faucet male
thread and the feed water adapter (Don’t buy
the spiral type) so you can easily put the
feed water adapter between two risers. This
is the EASIEST way. Spend additional $5
on the riser may save you a lot of time.
Type 1-Angle needle valve
1. put Teflon tape
2. tube insert
3. sleeve.
4. compression nut
Type 2- Ball valve
1. put Teflon tape on the thread, 2. push tubing through the nut, 3.
push tubing all the way into the connection, 4. screw on the nut tight
using a wrench

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STEP 2: INSTALLING THE DISPENSING FAUCET
1. faucet base
2. small washer+
chrome plate
3. large washer
4. kitchen sink
5. bottom plate
6. lock washer
7. lock nut
8. tube insert
9. sleeve
10. faucet nut
drill 1/2” hole on
the sink
The faucet should be positioned with aesthetics, function
and convenience in mind. An ample flat surface is
required for the faucet base so that it can be drawn down
tight. Also check the under sink area of the desired
location to see if there is ample space to complete the
faucet installation.
If the space is not available on the upper sink area, the
faucet could be positioned on the counter top at the edge
of the sink. Be sure to watch for obstructions below, i.e.,
drawers, cabinet walls, support braces, etc. If the counter
top is ceramic tile, the method for drilling the hole should
be the same as for porcelain sink.
NOTE: The sink drilling process, although not
complicated, requires a certain amount of caution and
forethought. Porcelain sink can chip if care is not
exercised.
PORCELAIN ENAMEL SINK/ STAINLESS STEEL SINK/ ALUMIUM SINK
A 1/ 2” hole is required for the faucet. It is recommended that you get special drill bit for porcelain and tile counter. If
you don’t have the special drill bit, then you need to pay special attention.
1. Place a piece of masking tape or duct tape on the determined location where the hole is to be drilled.
2. Use a variable speed drill at slow speed with 1/8” drill bit, and drill a centering hole in the center of the desired
faucet location. Use lubricating oil to keep the drill bit cool while drilling.
3. Enlarge the hole using a 1/ 4” drill bit.
4. Enlarge the hole using 7/16” or 1/ 2” drill bit. Keep bit well oiled and cool, then drill slowly.
5. File or clean the surrounding area and remove the masking or duct tape. (NOTE: the metal chips on porcelain will
stain very fast)
6. DON’T put Teflon tape at the tip of the threaded mounting base of the faucet since it’s a compression fitting.
7. Pass the small rubber washer, the escutcheon plate (chrome base plate), large rubber washer according to the
diagram through the threaded mounting tube at the base of the faucet
8. From under the sink, install the locating washer, lock water, and nut. Then screw on tightly.
9. According to the diagram, pass brass nut through the BLUE tubing first, then plastic sleeve (preferred), or brass
sleeve, then the plastic insert. Push the white plastic sleeve against the insert.
10. Screw on the Blue tubing with brass nut to the faucet base. Uses wrench to tighten the nut but don’t over tighten
it. Too tight would cause leak.
11. Pull out the 3/8” O.D. spacing tube from RO faucet and insert the spout into the faucet base while holding the
black lever handle in horizontal position.
12. The spout is 360-degree swivel. The faucet lever can be pushed down for dispensing or pull up for continuing
dispensing.

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STEP 3: MOUNTING THE TANK BALL VALVE (for RD-106 only)
Do notrelease air fromthe air valve on the lower side of the storage tank. It haspre-charged at 7-10psi at the factory.
put Teflon tape, 6-8 turns
screw on ball valve tight, push tubing through
the nut, put tube insert, screw on the nut
the tank can be positioned
laying down or standing upright
STEP 4: MOUNTING THE DRAIN SADDLE VALVE (don’t put in blue area)
The drain saddle valve should fit most standard drainpipe. It
should be installed above the trap and on the horizontal pipe
(1) or vertical pipe (2).
DON’T put on position (3), (4), or blue section
Position the drain saddle in desired location, mark spot. You need
to consider available space for drain tubing
Drill 1/ 4” hole into the drainpipe above the water line of the pipe.
Clean the surface of the pipe.
Pears off the sticky foam pad, then aligns the center hole around
the drilled pipe hole. Then tape it.
Align the drilled hole in the drain pipe with the drain saddle
using a drill bit or narrow screwdriver
put the complementary piece and clamp them together with the
two bolts. (1) Tighten the two bolts evenly.(2) Connect Black
tubing to drain saddle valve.

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STEP 5: SYSTEM START-UP
1. Make sure all tubing are not kinked.
2. Turn Tank Valve to OFF position, Faucet lever OFF. (for RD106 only)
3. Turn RO faucet lever to continuous flow position. Lever points up. (for RD-106 only)
4. Turn cold water supply main valve on slowly. Also turn input ball valve ON. When the system is pressurized,
check for leaks. If leak is found, tighten the connection.
5. Wait 5 minutes, the water should start dripping out of the RO faucet, and then wait 10 more minutes to allow
water to flow through the system, and air trap inside the system can be released.
6. Turn Tank Valve to ON position, lever is parallel to the tubing. (for RD-106 only)
7. Turn the RO faucet lever to OFF. Now the purified water will start going into the storage tank. (for RD-106)
8. Wait 3 hours for the storage tank to be filled up.
9. DO NOT DRINK THE FIRST BATCH OF WATER PRODUCED BY THE SYSTEM. For RD-100 let pure
water drain out for about 1 gallon
10. After storage tank is full, turn the RO faucet lever to continuous flow position, (Lever points up) to discharge the
first batch of water. Wait until it’s completely discharged. (for RD-106 only)
11. After discharging the tank, turn the RO faucet to OFF position. Now the RO system is refilling the tank.
12. After the tank is filled up again, you can start enjoy the pure water. Job Well Done!
NOTE: Check for leaks daily for the first week after installation.
Flow Diagram for 6-Stage Reverse Osmosis+ DI Water Systems
MODEL: RD-100 MODEL: RD-106
SERVICE RECORD:
DATE OF PURCHASE:
DATE OF INSTALLATION/SERVICE:
Service Date Date Date Date Date
1st stage sediment
2nd stage carbon
3rd stage carbon
4th stage membrane
5th stage DI filter
6th stage inline carbon

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Changing Filters Procedures
•Shut off the system by turning off the water supply, and turn off the tank valve,
open the spigot to depressurize
•Prepare a towel under the unit for water spills
•Use a filter wrench (part no. 566, not supplied with the unit) or use hands to open
the filter housing, unscrew it from right to left.
•Throw away the used filter, and clean the inside of the housing by rinsing or
scrubbing it.
•Checking the black “O” ring inside the filter housing (DON’T LOOSE IT)
•Place the new filter inside the filter housing. For 204 & 904 carbon filter, the end
with rubber gasket should be on top.
•Place the “O” ring in the housing groove (MAKE SURE IT IS IN PLACE)
•Put some Vaseline or silicon-based lubricant on the side of the housing thread
(optional procedure)
•Use a filter wrench or both hands to screw the housing back into place by turning
it from left to right (Don’t lay down the unit when turning it, the unit should be
standing upright to prevent the o-ring from misalignment)
•Repeat the above steps for other filters
•The new style 5th stage inline carbon filter has penny-sized protective caps on
both ends. Please use a screw driver or knife to pry open the caps.
*if you have quick connect fitting, push * if you have compression fitting *unscrew fitting off to replace filter
plastic ring against fitting, pull out tubing unscrew to remove tubing
For part no. 213 or 913 inline carbon filter, remove fittings from both ends of the filter then replace new filter.
After all housings are tight, turn on the water supply and tank valve.
Check for leaks, if there is a leak, tighten the housing or re-aligning the o-ring.
Open the spigot to drain all the water out of the storage tank.
If you are changing a carbon filter or membrane, you must drain the first tank of water after restart the system.
Refer to the back of this page for recharging tank procedure (if necessary)
Changing Membrane Procedure
•Free the membrane housing from the U-clips, and remove the tubing from the membrane fitting (the inlet side of the membrane
housing, or the side with the membrane housing cap). Unscrew the membrane housing cap off (counter-clockwise)
•Use a pier to pull the membrane out of the membrane housing, and discard the used membrane.
•Put some Vaseline or lubricant on the smallblack O-rings. Insert the new membrane into the membrane housing (THE SIDE
WITH DOUBLE BLACK O-RINGS SHOULD GO IN FIRST) Push the membrane all the way in (some force is required to
make sure the membrane is all the way in). Put some Vaseline or silicon based lubricant to the side of the housing threads.
•Screw the membrane-housing cap back (clockwise). Make sure O-ring is in place. Connect the tubing to its elbow fittings.
•Turn on the water supply and tank valve to restart the system. Check for leaks, if there is a leak, tighten the cap
•Wait 2 to 3 hours for the tank to be filled then you must drain the first tank of water by opening up the spigot to flush the system.