Radiosistemi rr8 Assembly instructions

Build Tips
& Tricks
This is a comprehensive build guide intended to help Radiosistemi owners build their new RR8 kits. We will
be outlining several tips and suggestions that we have found to be beneficial while assembling these kits.
Some of those tips will aide with such things as build speed and ease, while some will focus on kit
maintainence and durability. While we will cover a large portion of the build, it is intended only to provide tips
to ease your build. This guide is NOT intended to replace the instruction manual, only supplement.
TPSCE3X10ZN
M3x10
X2
TBCE3X8ZN
M3x8
TPSCE3X10ZN
M3x10
X6
12
13
0133036
TCCE25X10
M2,5x10
X2
X3
M3x3
STEI3X3
0133037
THROTTLE & BRAKE LINKAGE SET 0133023
X1
TBCE3X12ZN
M3x12
M3x4
X2
TPSCE3X10ZN
M3x10
X4
0133050
0133006
5X8X2.5

RR8 Build Tips & Tricks
Pre-Build Assembly
Pivot Balls - It is recommended to assemble the pivot balls the night before you plan to build your kit. This will
allow time for the thread locking compound to setup and harden. The parts are located in Bag 03.
Before assembling the pivot balls, note that
one side of the ball has a flat area. This will
be the side we screw the stud into.
Apply a liberal amount of red thread lock to the
studs. You can also use green compound for a
more permanent solution, however this will
make disassembly challenging.
Spin the ball onto the stud, snugging the ball
down tightly.

RR8 Build Tips & Tricks
Pre-Build Assembly
Pivot Balls - It is recommended to assemble the pivot balls the night before you plan to build your kit. This will
allow time for the thread locking compound to setup and harden. The parts are located in Bag 03.
Install the M3 screw into the end of the stud.
This screw is used as a safety mechanism to
prevent the balls from working loose. Apply
red thread lock to this screw as well.
Although unnecessary, you may choose to
sand the edges of the screw down.
Allow the thread lock to setup for 24 hours. If
you cannot or do not wish to wait, you may
continue on using caution to avoid
unscrewing the ball from the stud.
(Continued)

RR8 Build Tips & Tricks
Shocks
Note: Several steps of the assembly have been omitted.
Insert the O-Rings into the spring
adjustment nuts. Slide one side of the
O-Ring in, and then push the other side in
with your finger nail.
To thread the shock shafts into the shock
ends, without risk of marring the shaft with
pliers, you can simply install the nut on the
upper piston thread. Use a 5mm hex wrench to
spin the nut and shaft into the lower shock
end. The nut will come off quite easily once the
shaft is fully threaded into the shock end.
There are two sides on the plastic shock
ends. One is rough and one has a flat
circular area. You want to insert the ball
through the side with the flat area.

RR8 Build Tips & Tricks
Shocks
Note: Several steps of the assembly have been omitted.
Use a pair of flat needle nose to install the
balls into the ends. This will prevent marring
of the plastic.
Shafts fully assembled.
Assemble the lower shock seals. Note the
order of the O-Rings and Bushings. I
greased both O-Rings and the middle
bushing. I did not grease the outer bushing
to prevent dirt accumulation.

RR8 Build Tips & Tricks
Shocks
Note: Several steps of the assembly have been omitted.
If you happen to slide a loose O-Ring over a
shock shaft, you'll notice the O-Ring is
oversized. Not to worry.
The seal is designed this way. When the
O-Rings are inserted into the shock body, they
squeeze down to the proper size. This creates
an ideal seal that will last much longer and
provide better performance vs. using an O-
Ring that is sized to the shaft.
The shock pistons are tapered delrin and are
drilled to 6x1.3mm. Install the taper down to
give a little better pack over the large jumps.
If your track is rough, you may consider
installing the taper up to give a softer
compression.

RR8 Build Tips & Tricks
Differentials
Note: Several steps of the assembly have been omitted.
Quickly check and set backlash by
assembling the diff case and the bevel gear.
Make sure to use the blue diff gasket so the
gear and case will be the correct assembled
width. Do not install any internals yet.
Add shims and the 8x14 bearings to the diff.
You also need to install the 8x16 bearings and
the pinion gear into the bulkhead.
With the pinion and diff installed into the
bulkhead, press on the bearings with your
fingers (holding the gears tight) and check
backlash. You want the gears to rotate
smoothly, with no notchiness and minimal
play. I used one .2mm shim on the gear side,
no shim on the case side. If you need to add
or change the shimming, you can do so now
without having to disassemble the entire
diff. DO THIS FOR BOTH F & R DIFFS.

RR8 Build Tips & Tricks
Differentials
Note: Several steps of the assembly have been omitted.
Apply a thin bead of grease around the
outdrives, especially around the secondary
seal. You also need to apply grease to the O-
Rings.
Grease all O-Rings.
Applying grease to the washer behind the
large internal gears will help prevent oil
seepage. Only grease one side, install shims
so the grease faces O-Rings.

RR8 Build Tips & Tricks
Differentials
Note: Several steps of the assembly have been omitted.
After the outdrives, seals and cross pins are
installed into the differential case, you will
need to install the set screw into the case to
seal it off. Put a small dab of CA glue onto
the set screw to provide a secondary seal
against oil seep.
Install the set screw into the case. The set
screw should be flush with the outside of the
case.
Lower diffs assembled.

RR8 Build Tips & Tricks
Differentials
Note: Several steps of the assembly have been omitted.
Install the diff gaskets into the bevel gears.
The fit is tight enough to hold them in place
until the gears are installed on the case.
Several steps of the build were omitted in this
tips guide. You will need to complete assembly
of the differentials. 5000cst Front and 3000cst
Rear oil is recommended.
(Continued)

RR8 Build Tips & Tricks
Driveline
Note: Several steps of the assembly have been omitted.
The RR8 uses an aluminum slip cover to
retain the CV pins in place. In order to keep
the cover itself in place, you need to align
the holes and insert the set screw.
Install the driveshafts onto the pinion. Use
your thumb to press on the pinion while
squeezing the CV joint with your index and
middle fingers. There is no shimming required
on the pinion gear.
Assemble the bulkhead(s) and apply grease
to the bevel and pinion gears.

RR8 Build Tips & Tricks
Front End
Note: Several steps of the assembly have been omitted.
Assemble the outboard driveshafts. Grease
the pins & barrels before assembling them.
You can use the 15x21 bearing to hold the pin
in place if necessary before you insert it into
the steering knuckle.
Assemble the knuckles. No real tricks or tips
needed here. It's quite straight forward.
Shouldered Pivot Ball = Bottom, Hexed Pivot
ball = Top

RR8 Build Tips & Tricks
Front End
Note: Several steps of the assembly have been omitted.
When assembling the sway-bar links, do not
bottom out the set screw. You only need to
thread it in 1/2 way.
For now, leave the droop screws flush. It is
recommended to adjust these once the car is
complete.
Assemble the arms onto the knuckles.
Remember, the shouldered pivot ball goes
on bottom, and the hexed pivotball goes up
top.

RR8 Build Tips & Tricks
Front End
Note: Several steps of the assembly have been omitted.
Assemble the bulkhead. It's recommended
to either grease the M3x30 screws, and/or
use a power screwdriver.
The suspension inserts are notched for quick
reference. No notches = 0mm, One notch =
0.5mm, Two notches = 1.0mm
When pressing the inserts in, the tolerances
are tight to prevent excess slop. You may
need to use a set of pliers to get them
seated fully.

RR8 Build Tips & Tricks
Front End
Note: Several steps of the assembly have been omitted.
The RR8 is designed with multiple
adjustments in mind. You can slide the arm
forward and back up to 6mm. Start with a
single thin shim upfront. Add appropriate
amount of shims to the inside of the arm.
Drill out a 2.5mm hole into the largest sway
bar holders. After, insert a M3x4 set screw.
You can now use the set screw to adjust slack
with different sized sway bars, instead of
swapping the entire holders.
Front mostly done.

RR8 Build Tips & Tricks
Steering
Note: Several steps of the assembly have been omitted.
The 3mm chassis is pocketed to accept the
steering posts and make assembly easier.
Make sure to line them up correctly.
Install the lower bearings onto the post, this
will prevent you from loosing them during the
build. Additionally, install the upper bearings
after assembly.
After much testing, it is recommended to
thread the servo saver nut down 4mm. This
will provide a strong tension, but provide
just enough flex to prevent damage.

RR8 Build Tips & Tricks
Upper Plate
Note: Several steps of the assembly have been omitted.
Apply red loctite to the UF mount.
To aid in assembly, insert a body clip to get a
good hold of the body mount while screwing it
down.
Installing the upper steering plate and UF
mount before installing the front end on the
chassis will be much easier.

RR8 Build Tips & Tricks
Braces
Note: Several steps of the assembly have been omitted.
The front and rear braces can be locked or
unlocked into "Flex" mode, depending on
track conditions. Tighten the screw to lock
the brace solid, or loosen to allow the brace
to flex.
If you plan to run the brace(s) in flex mode,
apply some grease to inner portion of the
upper brace. Note: the picture shows the rear
brace.
Install the e-clips on the retaining pins.
Brace is now fully assembled.

RR8 Build Tips & Tricks
Chassis & Center Diff
Note: Several steps of the assembly have been omitted.
When installing the brace onto the car, leave
the upper mount screw loose. This will allow
you to align the lower screws much easier.
Once the bottom two screws are torqued
down, you may then torque the upper screw.
Assemble the center differential using the
same tips as the F & R differentials shown
above. Install a 0.1mm shim behind the
bearing on the case side.
(Continued)

RR8 Build Tips & Tricks
Brakes
Note: Several steps of the assembly have been omitted.
Using 250 grit paper, sand down one side of
the backing pads. You only need a light
scuff. After sanding, clean them with
degreaser.
Mark the pads. You want your cut pads to be
just inside of the holes. This way, you won't
have to clearance the pad around the holes.
Cut the pads on your marks. A sharp utility
or hobby knife will work well for this. You
can also score it and snap it.