Remington Solar Green House User manual

Green House Manual
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Introduction
Thank you for choosing our product. We are confident that once assembled, the Remington Solar
greenhouse will provide many years of service to your horticultural and/or agricultural needs.
Please read this manual carefully, as it contains details of how to assemble your greenhouse correctly
and has important information and to ensure your safety. The manual also lists other tools, equipment
and materials you will need to build your greenhouse.
Before you begin
•It is important to check local building codes to make sure that your building does not contravene
any local or other administrative regulations.
•Make sure that the selected ground area is free from any underground pipes and cables. Have
utilities marked if necessary.
•Make sure that there are no overhead power cables that could interfere with the construction.
It is dangerous (and possibly illegal) to build directly under such cables.
Important safety information
•Always wear eye protection and gloves when handling the metal frame.
•Always wear eye protection when using power tools.
•Take particular care when handling and cutting the pipe. The ends may be sharp.
•Do not climb on the greenhouse at any time.
•Do not occupy the greenhouse during high winds, tornadoes, or hurricanes.
•Do not store hazardous materials in the greenhouse.
•Use power or hand tools safely and according to the manufacturers’ instructions.
Tools you’ll need
•Measuring tape
•String
•Squaring stakes
•Sledgehammer
•Ladder
•Power drill
•3/8” drive ratchet
•Deep (long reach) 7/16”
socket
•Deep (long reach) ½” socket
•Knife or scissors
•Hacksaw or other metal
cutting saw
•Level
•Channel lock pliers
•Flat head screwdriver or
power drill screwdriver bit
•5/16” nut driver
•3/8” nut driver
•Rope
•Flat file

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Crew Required
Some operations in the erection of your greenhouse require more than one person. Be prepared to
seek the help of other people when the instructions so indicate. Especially when installing the bows and
the covering.
Site Prep:Make sure the ground is leveled and your building site is slightly elevated to where it shades
water on all sides. This helps prevent water from coming in and staying in.
Before starting inspect all your pipes and make sure to file down any leftover burrs. You can use a flat
file for the outer edges of the pipe and a rat tail file to smoothen out the inside of the pipe. This is very
important to prevent the burrs from cutting through the plastic.

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Laying out your template
1. Following the diagram below, lay a ground cover. This helps avoid mud inside your green house.
This fabric will allow water to go through it but will prevent weeds and grass from coming up to
avoid mud.
2. Using the actual measurements of your greenhouse, place temporary markers (with small
stones or coins) on the ground cover at the four corners (A, B, C, D) of where your greenhouse
frame will sit.
3. You will measure 2 feet beyond the edges of each corner where your temporary markers are
and place stakes on those points as shown below.
4. You will now run a string 6 inches up from the ground from each stake to form your square.
You will run a string 6 inches up from the ground from:
•Stake A1 to C1 (line 1)
•Stake C2 to D2 (line 2)
•Stake D1 to B1 (line 3)
•Stake B2 to A2 (line 4)
A
B
C
D
10 ft
10 ft
Stake A1
Stake
Stake B1
Stake D2
Stake B2
Stake A2
Stake C2
< 2’ 0”>
< 2’ 0”>
< 2’ 0”>
< 2’ 0”>
< 2’ 0”>
< 2’ 0”>
< 2’ 0”>
< 2’ 0”>
Temporary
Markers
Ground
cover
outline
Line 1
Line 3
Line 2
Line 4
Stake C1
Stake D1

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Once your strings are aligned you will notice how the strings meet at each corner of your
greenhouse where your temporary markers were placed. (A, B, C, D)
Installing the ground Pipes
1. Use a torch to burn a hole through the ground cover where the ground pipes will go (Points A,
B, C, D)
2. Place the driving cap on top of the ground pipe. Do not drive the pipe without the driving cap
as this will damage the pipe. The ground pipe should be on the inside of the strings and as close
as possible to the string without touching it.
3. Proceed to hammer them into the holes you burned through the ground cover as shown below.
Driving Cap
Ground Pipe

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4. After installing all 4 corner pipes choose your 2 side walls that will be parallel to each other.
Make a mark from one of the corner pipes 5 feet down the string which is the center of the 10-
foot side wall. You will do this for only those 2 sides and place ground pipes on those marks as
well. Make sure the sides you do this for are NOT where you want the door to be as these will
be your side walls.
Assembling your bows
First locate your bow pieces and assemble the bows until all 3 bows measure the same from arch to arch
as shown below. You might need to mix and match until all 3 bows have the measurements below.
Arrows to the right
refer to 5’ distance
between Ground Pipes
on the side wall
5 FT Span
5 FT Span
Center Pipe
Corner Pipe
Corner Pipe
44 Inches

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Assembling the frame
1. Once you confirm the correct measurements for each bow connect the top two bow pieces
together by placing the end of the swaged bow piece into the non-swaged piece.
2. Connect the lower two bow pieces to each side of the bow using the pre-attached sleeve.
3. Assemle all 3 bows without securing them with a screw.
4. Lay out all your 3 assembled bows and choose which bow will be your front bow, middle bow
and back bow.
5. Before securing the front and back bow with a screw you will locate your clamps and insert
two of them at the top of the bow, right ABOVE the sleeve. Take one of the two clamps above
the sleeve on the front and back bow and drag it toward the peak of your bow. These will be
your inwall pipe clamps as shown in the picture. Keep the other clamp right above your sleeve.
This will be your brace clamp. Do this for both sides of the front and back bow as shown in the
front and back bow picture. Now you will take another clamp and slide it BELOW the sleeve. Do
this on both sides.
You should now have a total of 6 clamps on your front back bow, 2 ABOVE the sleeves; one on
each side (brace clamps), 2 BELOW the sleeve; one on each side (cross pipe clamps), and 2 at the
peak; one on each side (inwall pipe clamps) of your bow as shown in the front and back bow
picture.
AGAIN, THESE CLAMPS WILL BE POSITIONED THE SAME FOR YOUR FRONT AND BACK BOW
BEFORE SECURING THE BOW PEICES WITH SCREWS
Inwall Pipe Clamps
Brace Clamps
Sleeves
Cross pipe Clamps
FRONT & BACK BOW PICTURE

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7. Once your clamps are in place start by securing the top two
bow pieces with a 3/8” self-tapping screw.
8. You will then proceed to secure each sleeve to the top bow
piece with a 3/8” self-tapping screw as shown below (make
sure the screw is on the inside of the green house to avoid cutting the poly covering).
You will do this for your 3 sets of bows making sure your clamps remain in place for the corresponding
bow.
6. You will now locate your middle bow and insert 2 clamps BELOW the sleeve on each side.
So, for your middle bow there will be a total of 4 clamps, 2 on each side BELOW (brace clamps) the
sleeve as shown in the middle bow picture.
Sleeves
MIDDLE BOW PICTURE

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Attaching the bows (Requires two people)
1. First measure 6 inches from the bottom of the bow legs and make a mark with a Sharpie on
each end of your bow frames as shown below.
2. With one person at each end of the bow, lift the bow and slide it into the corresponding ground
pipe as shown below. Remember your front bow is where your door will be installed.
6 in. mark
Front Bow
Middle Bow
Back Bow

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Here is where the
top of the ground
pipe and the 6-inch
mark you made at
the bottom of your
bow meet.
3. Secure the bow to the ground pipe with a 3/8” self-tapping screw matching the top of the
ground pipe with the mark you made at the bottom of your bow. Meaning the bow will only go
as deep into the ground pipe as that 6-inch mark you made as shown below.
You will repeat this for all 3 assembled bows until your frame is secure and complete.
Assembling your purlins
1. Locate your purlin bundles. Make sure not to mix them up they come in matched sets and must
go together. Assemble one purlin
by fitting the numbered pieces
together. They are numbered 1
and 2.
2. Make sure to start with the
base purlins as shown below to
adjust your clamps where they
need to be.
3. Before securing your base
purlins, drag all the clamps below
the sleeves on each bow ABOVE
the arch.
Close up from the INSIDE
of the greenhouse
IMPORTANT: Since all the purlins have a
number 1 & 2 on them, put the side of
the purlin set with the #1 on it, towards
the front of the green house and face
the number towards the inside of the
greenhouse. The #2 should be on the
back end also facing the inside of the
greenhouse.
Base Purlins

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4. You will now take the base purlins and screw them on the inside of the arched areas of your
bows making sure the clamps are properly positioned when securing both base purlins
according to which bow it is.
5. Make sure the numbers on each purlin piece are facing the same way on the inside of your
greenhouse.
7. Once your clamps are in place according to the corresponding bow, secure your top 2
purlins and your peak purlin.
Your frame is now done and should look like this.
Top Purlins
Peak Purlin
6. You will now install your 2 top
purlins. FOR THE FRONT AND BACK
BOW ONLY! Make sure your inwall
clamps, brace clamps, and cross pipe
clamps remain positioned as discussed
earlier before securing your top purlins.
You should have one brace clamp on
each side of your front and back bow
above the sleeve but below your top
purlin. You should now have your door
clamps (one on both sides) above the
top purlins but below your peak purlins.
You should now also have one clamp on
each side above the base purlin but
below your sleeve.
Inwall clamps
Brace clamp
Brace clamp
Cross pipe clamp
Cross pipe clamp

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Installing your bracing
1. You will have 4 braces. File the edges of the braces to smoothen out
any sharp edges that could tear into your plastic.
2. You will install your braces with the prepositioned clamps on your
bows as shown below. You will stick your bolts in from the outside
making sure the NUTS are on the INSIDE of your greenhouse and
temporarily tighten them.
3. Before fully tightening the bolts on the clamps to secure the braces,
use a level to make sure it’s even and adjust as needed by moving the
temporarily tightened braces and clamps up or down the bows.
4. Once it is level you can tighten the nut.
5. You will repeat this process on the opposite side with the 2 remaining
braces. Make sure the nuts are on the inside of your greenhouse.
File the
edges until
smooth
Close up from the INSIDE of the
greenhouse of the 2 clamps fully
tightened with the braces
Close up from the OUTSIDE of
the greenhouse of the 2 clamps
fully tightened with the braces

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Installing the Eaves
1. You will now install the eaves over the base purlins making sure the long side of the eave is
facing down as shown below.
2. The screw should be attached approximately 3 inches from the bottom of the eave into the bow
pipe to secure the hold.
3. Make sure it is perfectly level all the way across.
4. You will use the splice piece over the break in the
eaves to secure the assembly.
5. You will use 3 screws to secure the splice piece in
the break.
6. Once your eaves are done there should be one screw on both ends 3 inches up from the bottom
of the eaves securing them to the bow pipes, and there should be 3 screws where your splice
piece is securing the break as shown below.
Setting up the door
1. You will now go to the front of the greenhouse where the door will be installed.
Base Purlins
Eaves
Close up from the
INSIDE the greenhouse

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2. Measure from the outside of the corresponding ground pipe 5 feet in which is the middle point
of that side and place a temporary marker.
3. Then you will mark a line from both sides of that halfway point measuring 1 foot and 6.5 inches
out where your first door pipe will go as show below.
4. This will help center your door on that wall. Once you have your marks down burn a hole on the
OUTER part of the line for your door pipes and hammer them in. Make sure you are right
against your string but not pushing the string from your batter boards.
5. Just like your other pipes it should be 6 inches off the ground.
6. Before installing your second door pipe measure again from the pipe you have already
hammered in, to your second pipe mark and make sure it measures 37 inches.
Front corner ground pipe
Front corner ground pipe
5-foot temporary
marker
Line Marked
First door pipe
5-foot temporary
marker
6 inches

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7. Once you have verified, install your second pipe. Again, make sure it is installed on the OUTSIDE
of the mark you made.
8. Make sure both door pipes are even.
Inwall pipes
Now that you have your ground door pipes in place, we will proceed with the door inwall pipes.
1. Locate your inwall pipes, slide one into the other and place them in your ground pipes without
screwing them down.
2. You will notice that they are longer than the top of your greenhouse. Using a level, make a mark
on your inwall pipe where the top of the pipe meets the top of your front bow. That is where
you will cut the inwall pipe.
3. You will also make a mark on that same position but on the back of your front bow so you where
it is level when you put it back up after cutting it.
Mark you made on
your inwall pipe
where you will cut.
Mark you made on the
back of your front bow
to outline where the
cut piece will attach.

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4. Now that you have your top inwall pipe cut, put 3 clamps on your inwall pipe before placing
your inwall pipe back into your door ground pipes.
5. Once the clamps are in, you will use the top clamp on the inwall pipe and push it to the peak
meeting one of the clamps you prepositioned on the top of your bow earlier to secure the inwall
pipe to your frame.
Clamp
Clamp
Clamp
Prepositioned
clamp at the peak
of your bow
Inwall pipe Clamp

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6. You will repeat this process for your second inwall pipe set. Before fully securing the second
inwall pipe with the clamps make sure to measure the top ensuring it is 37 inches just like your
bottom part.
7. Grab your cross pipe and insert 2 clamps on it.
8. You will secure one of those clamps with the prepositioned clamp on your bow.
9. To secure the opposite side of your cross pipe, you will take the bottom clamp of the 2
remaining clamps on your inwall pipe to secure your cross pipe to your inwall pipe as shown
below.
37 inches
Cross pipe
Inwall pipe
2 Clamps
2 Clamps
Front Bow
Remaining Clamp

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10. You will repeat this process for the opposite side of that same front wall. Your frame should now
look like this.
11. You will now take your 2 remaining clamps on your inwall pipes to secure your third cross pipe
in between your inwall pipes that will hover over your door.
Third cross pipe over your door

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12. You will repeat this for your back wall but since there is no door, your third cross pipe will sit
slightly above your other 2 cross pipes as shown below.
Installing the door
1. Use 2 bricks to prop your door up in the middle of your inwall pipes and screw down the hinges
to secure the door.
Third cross pipe
for your back wall

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Base Trim
1. You will now install your base trim which will sit on the ground with the long side up putting the
screw at the bottom securing it with the ground steaks. These trim pieces are specifically for
the inwall part because they are measured to fit with the door opening.
2. You will do this for the back wall as well NOT THE SIDE WALLS.
Base trim
Long side up with the
screw at the bottom of
the long side.
Front Wall
Back Wall
Back Wall base trim

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Once your front and back wall base trim is installed you will remove your batter boards from each
corner of your frame.
Installing your poly track
1. You will now install your poly track on the front
and back wall base trim. You will have to cut it to
length to fit properly. The poly track will go right at
the top edge of your trim.
2. Use the 5/16 tech screws and screw them down
at each end of your poly track through the inwall
pipe then proceed to secure the track in 12-inch
increments in between.
3. Repeat this process on the other side of the door.
4. You will also do this for your back wall but remember since there is no door on your back wall
you will install the poly track all across the base trim NOT THE CROSS PIPES.
5/16 tech screw
Batter boards
Poly track over your base trim