Tower Hobbies UPROAR User manual

INSTRUCTION MANUAL
V 1.4 TUP4P02
Wing Span: 48 in.
Wing Area: 573 sq. in. Weight: 3.5 to 4 lb.
Length: 42 in. Wing Loading: 14 to 16 oz./sq. ft.
Engine: .32 –.56 2-stroke
© 2010 Tower Hobbies®

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WARRANTY
Tower Hobbies guarantees this kit to be free from
defects in both materials and workmanship at the date of
purchase. This warranty does not cover any component
parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall
Tower’s liability exceed the original cost of the purchased
kit. Further, Tower reserves the right to change or modify
this warranty without notice.
In that Tower has no control over the final assembly or
material used for final assembly, no liability shall be
assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the
use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the
act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts
all resulting liability.
If the buyers are not prepared to accept the liability
associated with the use of this product, they are advised to
return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to
Tower Hobbies.
READ THROUGH THIS INSTRUCTION BOOK BEFORE
BEGINNING CONSTRUCTION.THIS BOOKLET CONTAINS
WARNINGS AND PRECAUTIONS REGARDING THE USE
OF THIS PRODUCT.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
ITEMS REQUIRED FOR COMPLETION ............................. 3
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES....................................... 4
DIE PATTERNS ................................................................... 5
BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES............................................... 6
BUILD THE WING ............................................................. 8
BUILD THE FUSELAGE .................................................... 12
FINAL ASSEMBLY............................................................. 15
COVERING AND FINISHING.......................................... 16
FINAL HOOKUPS AND CHECKS..................................... 18
PREFLIGHT ...................................................................... 21
FLYING ............................................................................ 22
FOLLOW THIS IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTION TO
PROTECT YOUR MODEL, YOURSELF & OTHERS.
Your UPROAR is not a toy, but rather a sophisticated,
working model that functions very much like an actual airplane.
Because of its realistic performance, the UPROAR, if not
assembled and operated correctly, could possibly cause
injury to yourself or spectators and damage property.
To make your R/C modeling experience totally enjoyable, we
recommend that you get experienced, knowledgeable help with
assembly and during your first flights. You’ll learn faster and
avoid risking your model before you’re truly ready to solo.
Your local hobby shop has information about flying clubs in
your area whose membership includes qualified instructors.

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You can also contact the national Academy of Model
Aeronautics (AMA), which has more than 2,300 chartered
clubs across the country. Through any one of them, instructor
training programs and insured newcomer training are
available.
Contact the AMA at the address or
toll-free phone number below:
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302-9252
TEL: [phone]
FAX: [phone]
Congratulations!
If you have been looking for a way to put the FUN back
into your Sunday flying, you have just found it with the
Uproar. The Uproar is a nimble little hot-dogger that assembles
fast and is easy on the budget. The Uproar does not require
any special building or flying skill – just traditional building
methods and a little tail-dragger time.
With its oversized control surfaces it turns, loops and
rolls in the blink of an eye. But the thick airfoil and light wing
loading allow the plane to slow way down for gentle spot
landings. If equipped with an engine like the Tower .40, it’s
possible to be airborne in a matter of feet, zip through three
rolls, and loop back for a landing before most of your buddies
are off the ground. What more can we say? The Uproar is the
most flying fun you can buy regardless of the cost.
ITEMS REQUIRED FOR COMPLETION
HARDWARE: We recommend using Great Planes®, Hobbico®and
Tower brand accessories for your modeling needs.
❍4-Channel radio with 5 servos and a Y-harness
❍.32 - .55 2-Stroke / .40 - .56 4-Stroke
❍Engine mount – GPMG1041
❍(4) 4-40 x 1" Machine screws / blind nuts – GPMQ3544
❍(4) Faslink Pushrod Connectors (optional) – GPMQ3820
❍4 - 8 oz. Fuel tank – DUBQ0204, 0206, 0208
❍(2) 2-1/2" Wheels – DUBQ0875
❍(4) 5/32" Wheel collars – GPMQ4306
❍1" Tail wheel – GPMQ4241
❍(2) 3/32" Wheel collars – GPMQ4302
❍12" Medium fuel tubing – GPMQ4131
❍(2) Rolls covering film – TowerKote Film
❍(16) Hinges – GPMQ3950
❍24" Flexible pushrod cable and tube (throttle) – GPMQ3700
❍(2) Screw-Lock Pushrod Connectors – GPMQ3870
SUPPLIES
❍2 oz. Thin CA – TOWR3800 ❍Masking Tape
❍2 oz. Medium CA – TOWR3801 ❍Waxed paper
❍2 oz. Thick CA – TOWR3802 ❍Clothespins
❍6-minute epoxy – TOWR3806 ❍Isopropyl Rubbing
❍30-minute epoxy – TOWR3810 Alcohol (70%)
❍Balsa filler – HCAR3401

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0 102030405060 70 80 90 100 110 120 130 140 150 160 170 180
1" 2" 3" 4" 5" 6" 7"0"
TOOLS
❍Sanding block and paper – GPMR6170
❍Hobby knife and #11 blades – RMXR6900
❍Single edge razor blades – HCAR0312
❍Razor saw (optional)
❍Razor plane – MASR1510
❍Electric drill
❍Small Phillips and flat blade screwdrivers
❍Pliers with wire cutter
❍Sealing iron – TOWR3250
❍Heat gun – TOWR3200
❍T-Pins – HCAR5150
❍Straightedge with scale
Drill bits: ❍1/16" ❍3/16" ❍5/32" ❍1/8" ❍1/4"
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES
• Unroll the plan sheets, then reroll the plans inside-out to
make them lie flat.
• Using a felt-tip or ballpoint pen, lightly write the part name
or size on each piece as you remove it from the box. Refer to
the parts list and plans for sizes and quantities. Use the die-
cut patterns shown on page 5 to identify the die-cut parts and
mark them before removing them from the sheet. Save all
scraps. If any of the die-cut parts are difficult to remove, do
not force them! Instead, cut around the parts with a hobby
knife or lightly sand the back of the sheet. After removing the
die-cut parts, use your sanding block to lightly sand the
edges to remove any die-cutting irregularities.
• Work on a flat surface over the plans. Cover the plans with
waxed paper. There are notes on the plans that tell you
what material to use to make each part.
• When instructed to test fit parts, this means DON’T USE
GLUE until you are satisfied that everything fits properly –
THEN glue the parts together if instructed to do so.
• The easiest way of cutting balsa sticks is with a razor saw.
Position the stick over the plan, mark its size, then cut the
part on a piece of scrap lumber. A modeling miter box works
well for cutting square corners and 45 degree gussets.
• A single-edge razor blade also works well for cutting balsa
sticks. Because the blades are both sharp and thin, they
don’t crush balsa as easily as #11 hobby blades.

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DIE-CUT PAGE

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BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES
STAB AND ELEVATORS
(Refer to this photo for the following 3 steps.)
❍1. Pin the shaped 1/4" balsa stab center section over its
location on the plans. Use 1/4" x 1/2" x 30" balsa to build the
outer framework of the stabilizer and both elevators, gluing
each piece in position as you proceed.
❍2. Cut and install four corner gussets and two elevator
joiner wire gussets from 1/4" x 1" x 24" balsa.
❍3. Cut and install the 1/4" x 1/4" and 1/4" x 3/16" internal
bracing as shown on the plans.
❍4. Attach the elevators to the stabilizer with masking tape,
making sure the outer edges are flush. Position the 1/8"
elevator joiner wire over the elevators as shown on the plans.
Mark the location of the joiner wire torque rods.
❍5. While the parts are taped together, round off all outside
edges around the perimeter of the assembly
❍6. Remove the elevators. Drill a 5/32" hole (7/8" deep) through
the center of each elevator’s leading edge at the locations you
marked in step #4. Cut a groove from the hole you drilled to the
root end of each elevator. The groove will allow the joiner wire
to fit flush with the elevator’s leading edge.

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V-SHAPE
SAND THE LE OF EACH CONTROL SURFACE
TO A V-SHAPE AS SHOWN
❍7. Draw a centerline on the leading edge of both elevators.
Refer to the cross section on the plan, then sand the elevator’s
leading edge to a “V” shape.
❍8. Test fit the joiner wire into both elevators. Make sure
that both elevators are flat on the work surface and that the
tips of the elevators align with the tips of the stab. If necessary,
remove the joiner wire, then make adjustments by bending
the torque arms.
❍9. Roughen the torque arms with coarse sandpaper. Pack
30-minute epoxy into the elevator’s holes with a toothpick,
then permanently install the joiner wire. Be sure the elevators
are flat on the work surface and that the leading edge is
perfectly straight.
FIN AND RUDDER
❍1. Working over the plans covered with waxed paper,
assemble the outside framework of the fin and rudder using
1/4" x 1/2" x 30" balsa.
❍2. Add the corner gussets cut from 1/4" x 1" balsa.
❍3. Add the 1/4" x 3/16" balsa internal bracing.
❍4. Using the plans for reference, mark and drill a 1/8" hole
(3/4" deep) into the lower leading edge of the rudder to
accept the tail gear torque arm. Cut a groove from the hole to
the bottom of the rudder to allow clearance for the tail gear
bearing.
❍5. Refer to the cross section on the plans, then round off
the leading and top edge of the fin and the trailing and top
edge of the rudder with sandpaper. Shape only the leading
edge of the rudder to a “V” along the hinge line.

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BUILD THE WING
AILERONS
❍1. Working over the plans covered with waxed paper, build
the ailerons frames from 1/4" x 1/2" balsa.
❍2. Add the 1/4" x 1/2" internal bracing. Carefully cut and
install the aileron control horn brace using the 1/4" x 1" balsa.
❍3. Draw a centerline on the leading edge of both ailerons.
Sand the leading edge of the ailerons to a “V” shape as shown
on the plans.
❍4. Don’t round off the trailing edge of the ailerons. Just
knock off the corners.
WING PANELS
❍1. Trim the length of the four 1/4" x 1/4" x 30" basswood
wing spars to 24". Save the remaining 6" pieces for later use.
❍❍2. Cover the wing plans with waxed paper. Use cross-
pinning (see illustration) to hold a wing spar in position
where shown on plans. The spar should be even with the
wing’s centerline and tip.
❍❍3. Cut the four 1/16" x 1-1/8" x 30" balsa trailing edge
sheets down to 24". Pin one sheet over the plans flush with
the trailing edge of the wing. NOTE: These sheets extend past
the rear end of the ribs by 1/4".
❍❍4. Position the die-cut R1 (see note) through R3 wing ribs
on the spar at the locations shown. Be sure the flat portion of

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the airfoil is toward the building board and the ribs are fully
seated on the spar. Use a small drafting triangle to hold each
rib vertical while you glue it in position. NOTE: The main spar
is centered in the spar notch in the R1 rib to allow room for
the spar joiners to fit on both sides of the spars.
❍❍5. Cut two 24" trailing edge sticks from 1/4" x 3/8" x 30"
balsa. Glue the trailing edge (3/8" dimension is vertical) to the
ribs and bottom trailing edge sheeting. Sand the top of the
trailing edge (with a long sanding block) flush with the top of
the ribs at an angle that matches the slope of the airfoil.
❍❍6. Cut two 24" sub leading edges from the 1/16" x 1" x
30" balsa sheets. Center the sub leading edge vertically on
the front of the ribs (and flush with the wing’s centerline),
then glue it in position. Sand the top edge flush with the top
of the airfoil.
❍❍7. Cut two 5/16" x 1-3/16" x 30" balsa leading edges to
24". Vertically center, then glue, a leading edge to the sub
leading edge of the wing panel.
❍❍8. Glue the 1/4" x 1/4" x 24" top basswood spar in
position. Use a drafting triangle to be sure the root end is
even with the bottom spar.
❍❍9. Use the leftover 1/4" basswood spar material to make
two aileron servo rails 1-5/8" long. Insert two of the rails into
the notches between the closely spaced R2 ribs. Use a servo
of your choice to set the correct spacing between the rails,
then glue the rails securely in position.
❍10. Follow steps 2 - 9 to build the second wing panel using
the extra pieces you cut previously. Be sure to build a left and
right wing panel.

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JOIN THE WING PANELS
❍1. Test fit the die-cut 1/8" ply leading and trailing edge
joiners and the four 1/16" x 1/4" x 6-1/2" ply main spar joiners
in the wing. Test fit the die-cut plywood servo tray between
the R1 ribs. Use a metal straightedge to make sure the spars,
leading edge and trailing edge are aligned and straight. When
everything fits well, glue the servo tray to both R1 ribs, then
remove the joiner pieces in preparation for gluing.
❍2. Be sure the wing is right-side up and flat on the
workbench, then use 30-minute epoxy to glue the leading
and trailing edge joiners in position. Next, install the top and
bottom main spar joiners, also using 30-minute epoxy.
Double check that there is no twisting or bowing and that
everything is straight before the epoxy cures.
★★★★ Pro Tip: Clothespins or spring-clips can be used to
clamp the pieces together and phone books or magazines
can be used to hold the wing flat.
ADD WING SHEETING
Be sure the wing is pinned flat on your work surface from the
spar to the trailing edge before you begin sheeting.
❍1. Glue a 1/16" x 1-1/8" x 24" trailing edge sheet to the top
of both wing panels.
R-1 CAP STRIPS SHEAR WEBS
LE SHEET
2-3/8"
24" 6"
❍2. Trim the four 1/16" x 3" x 30" balsa leading edge sheets
to 24". Save the leftover 6" pieces for use later during construction.
Cut the 3" x 24" pieces down to 2-1/2" x 24". Save the 1/2" x
24" sticks to make the R1 capstrips.
❍❍3. Align a leading edge sheet with a wing tip, then hold
it tightly against the leading edge while using thin CA to glue
it to the sub leading edge. (See photo at step 5.)
❍❍4. Carefully lift up the leading edge sheet, away from the
ribs. Working quickly, apply a bead of medium or thick CA to
each rib, then roll the sheet into contact. Hold the sheet until
the CA cures. Wick some thin CA between the sheet and the
spar to secure the aft edge of the sheet to the spar.

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❍❍5. Glue a scrap piece of 1/16" x 1/2" x 2" balsa to the
bottom edge of the leading edge sheet at the root end to
reinforce the joint between the leading edge sheets. Sheet
the other top leading edge by repeating steps 3 and 4.
❍❍6. Cut and install cap strips for the top of each R2 and R3
rib from 1/16" x 5/16" x 30" balsa sticks. Use the 1/16" x 1/2" x
24" balsa left over from the leading edge sheeting to make
the R1 capstrips. Refer to the photo and plans for the correct
position of the root and tip cap strips.
❍❍7. Use the leftover 1/16" x 3" x 6" leading edge sheeting
to cut and install shear webs on the aft edge of the spars as
shown on the plans.
❍❍8. Remove the wing from your work surface. Pin it back
to your building board, upside-down, making sure that it’s
straight without any twists.
❍9. Repeat steps 3 - 8 to sheet the bottom of the wing.
❍10. Use leftover cap strip balsa to frame the servo openings
on the bottom of the wing as detailed on the plans.
❍11. Use a razor plane or carving blade and coarse sandpaper
to shape the leading edge. Cut the template from the plan,
glue it to scrap cardboard, and then use it to test the accuracy
of your work as you proceed.
❍12. Cut two 4-1/4" x 11" strips from an 8-1/2" x 11" sheet of
paper. Roll the strips lengthwise into tubes, then insert them
through the holes in the wing ribs between the servo bay and
W1. Apply a couple of drops of medium CA to secure them
in position. These tubes make it easy to fish your servo wires
into the fuse.

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BUILD THE FUSELAGE
❍1. Cover the fuselage top view on the plans with waxed
paper. Designate a right and left die-cut balsa fuselage side. If
you look at the rear end of the fuse sides you will see three
die-cut lines. These lines designate the pushrod exits. Use a
hobby knife to cut between the top and middle lines on the
right fuse side to open an exit slot 1-1/4" long for the elevator
pushrod. Do the same between the middle and bottom lines
on the left fuse side for the rudder pushrod exit.
★★★★ Pro Tip: If you have chosen the colors for your trim
scheme, cut the film for the two fuselage sides using the
die-cut side pieces as your pattern. Cut the outside edges
about 1" oversize but cut the wing opening to the exact
size. Be sure to cut a left and right side. Save these pieces
for use during final covering.
❍2. Align and glue the top, bottom and aft die-cut balsa
doublers to the die-cut balsa right fuse side as shown. Be sure
the notches on the doublers match the fuse sides perfectly.
Repeat this operation for the left fuse side but be sure to
check your work before using any glue so that you don’t make
two right sides! The doublers must face toward the inside of
the model.
❍3. Drill a 3/16" pushrod hole through each of the punch
marks on die-cut ply formers, F2 through F5. Without using
any glue, insert the formers into the notches in the fuse sides
with the die-stamped numbers facing the front of the model and
all of the 3/16" pushrod holes toward the bottom of the
fuselage. Use masking tape to hold the assembly together.
❍4. Position F2 over its location on the plans, then pin the
fuse sides to the building surface. Carefully align the length of

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the fuse over the plan, squaring up the formers and pinning
the assembly in place as you proceed. Be sure the front and
rear ends are aligned and that the fuse is not twisted.
❍5. Once satisfied that the fuse is trued up, wick some thin
CA into all of the fuse side and former joints.
❍6. Glue the shaped balsa tail post between the fuse sides,
flush with the rear end of the fuse sides. Check that the tail
post is vertical with a drafting triangle before the glue cures.
❍7. Cut and install 3/32" x 3" cross-grain sheeting to the top
of the fuse from F2 to the stab saddle. After sanding the
sheeting flush with the top edge of the fuse, remove the fuse
from the building surface, then realign and pin it back over
the plans, upside down.
❍8. Cut two 18" pieces from the 36" outer pushrod tube.
Sand the outside of the tubes to create a better surface for
gluing, then slide the tubes through the holes in the formers
and out through the pushrod exits at the rear of the fuse.
Glue the tubes to the formers and exit slots with medium CA.
❍9. Cut the rear hatch rail from 1/4" x 1/4" basswood leftover
from a main spar. Glue it in position into the notches in the
fuse doubler at F3. Cut two side hatch rails from 1/4" x 1/4" x
7-1/8" from an 18" basswood stick. Glue them in position to the
inside of the fuse. Cut the front hatch rail (to match the plans)
from 1/4" x 1/4" basswood leftover from a main spar. Glue it in
position.
❍10. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the 1/8" birch ply landing
gear plate into the notches ahead of F2 and to the forward
edge of F2. Wipe off any excess epoxy before it cures with a
paper towel and rubbing alcohol.
❍11. Use CA to glue the die-cut 1/8" ply forward fuse bottom
in position. Hold the fuse sides in tight contact while the CA
cures.

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❍12. Sheet the fuse bottom from the front edge of F3 to the
tail post with 3/32" cross-grain sheeting. The sheeting from F2
to the hatch rail will be completed after the wing is installed.
❍13. Use the firewall cross section on the plan to draw two
center lines on the 1/4" birch ply firewall. Center your engine
mount on these lines and mark the location of the mounting
holes. Drill 1/8" holes through these marks and install 4-40
blind nuts (not included) on the back side of the firewall.
Now would also be a good time to drill 1/4" holes for your
fuel and vent lines and a 3/16" hole for the pushrod.
❍14. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the firewall between the
fuse sides and to the fuse bottom. Secure the firewall with
tape, clamps or rubber bands until the epoxy has fully cured.
❍15. Use 6-minute epoxy for both of the following operations.
Cut and glue two pieces of 3/8" triangular balsa to the fuse
sides and the firewall between the fuse doublers. Cut and
glue two pieces of triangular balsa to the landing gear plate
and the fuse doublers.
❍16. Cut and glue a 1/4" x 1/4" basswood hatch rail to fit
between the fuse sides in front of F2. Sand the top of the rail
to match the tapered angle of the fuse.
❍17. Position a sheet of 3/32" x 4" wide balsa over the fuel
tank compartment with an edge butted against the top

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sheeting at F2. The grain must run from front to rear. Trace
the outline on the bottom surface, then cut and sand the
hatch to fit. Drill four 1/16" pilot holes through the top of the
hatch into the hatch rail and firewall at the locations shown
for #2 sheet metal screws.
FINAL ASSEMBLY
IMPORTANT: The wing is designed to fit snugly into the fuse
to provide a good glue joint between it and the fuse sides.
Work slowly and carefully when sliding the wing into location
to avoid damaging the cap strips or ribs. If too much
resistance is felt, remove the wing, then sand the inside of
the opening in the fuse to enlarge it slightly.
❍1. With one wing tip on the floor, work the fuse down the
wing from the opposite end. Due to the close fit, the fuse
must be kept perpendicular to the wing or it will bind. You
will probably need to help each cap strip through the fuse so
take your time and work carefully.
❍2. Once the
wing is centered in
the fuse, measure
the distance from
each wing tip to
the tail post. Shift
the wing until the
measurements
are equal. When
wing alignment is correct,
use medium CA to securely
glue the circumference of the R1 ribs to the fuse. Fill any gaps
with thick CA.
AA
A = A
❍3. Center the stabilizer on the stab saddle and temporarily
pin it in position. Measure from each stab tip to the center of
the firewall to set the correct alignment. Draw a couple of
reference
marks on the stab and fuse sides once it is in
position. Look at the rear of the model from several feet away.
The stab must be parallel with the wing. See photo at next step.
B
A
A = A and B = B
B
A

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If not, lightly sand the high side of the stab saddle to correct the
problem. Once fully aligned, use 30-minute epoxy to glue the
stab in position. Hold it in position with masking tape and pins
until the epoxy has cured.
❍4. Pin the fin on the centerline of the stab. Check its
alignment with the centerline of the fuse with a long
straightedge, then mark its aligned location. Glue the fin to
the stab with 6-minute epoxy. Make sure the fin is square to
the stab with a drafting triangle, then pin and tape the fin in
position until the epoxy cures.
❍ 5. Cut pieces of 3/8" triangular balsa to fit on both sides of
the fin, as shown on the plans. Round off the front and rear
ends for better appearance. Glue them securely in position
to the stab and fin.
❍ 6. Finish sheeting the bottom of the fuse with 3/32" x 4"
balsa sheet from F2 to just past the front edge of the front
bottom hatch rail.
❍ 7. Cut the bottom hatch cover from 3/32" x 4" balsa. Fit the
hatch, then drill 1/16" pilot holes through the hatch and hatch
rails. TIP: Use leftover balsa to reinforce the hatch cover by
applying two or three cross-grain strips to the inside surface.
COVERING AND FINISHING
We recommend using a lightweight film covering material
such as TowerKote™film to finish your Uproar. For best
results, apply the film following the manufacturer’s
instructions using the sequence we suggest on page 17.
REPAIRING SURFACE DINGS
Many surface blemishes on a framed model are caused by
bumps and balsa chips on the work surface. This type of ding
is best repaired by applying a drop or two of window cleaner
or tap water to the blemish, then running a hot sealing iron
over the spot to expand the wood fibers. After the surface has
dried, sand the expanded area smooth.
FINAL SANDING
Fill any scuffs, dings and the forward end of the pushrod tube
exit slots with balsa filler. After the filler has hardened, cut
and sand the pushrod tubes flush with the fuse sides, then
sand the entire structure with progressively finer grades of
sandpaper, ending with 320-grit.
FUELPROOFING
Fuelproof the firewall and fuel tank compartment by painting
them with thinned 30-minute epoxy. Prevent the epoxy
from clogging the blind nuts by first packing the holes with
petroleum jelly applied with a toothpick. Be sure to clean off
any “external” petroleum jelly “messes” with rubbing alcohol
before fuelproofing.

17
BALANCE THE AIRPLANE LATERALLY
SPECIAL NOTE: Do not confuse this procedure with“checking
the C.G.” or “balancing the airplane fore and aft.” That very
important step will be covered later in the manual.
❍ 1. Install the engine (with muffler) and landing gear to
the fuselage.
❍ 2. With the wing level, lift the model by the engine
propeller shaft and the fin (this may require two people). Do
this several times.
❍ 3. If one wing always drops when you lift the model, it
means that side is heavy. Balance the airplane by gluing a
weight to the inside of the other wing tip. NOTE: An airplane
that has been laterally balanced will track better in loops and
other maneuvers.
COVER THE STRUCTURE WITH TOWERKOTE FILM
The Uproar does not require any painting to obtain the
scheme shown on the box, as all of the finish is done with
TowerKote Film.
Make sure the structure is smoothly sanded with 320-grit
sandpaper. Remove all dust from the structure with a vacuum
cleaner and Top Flite®Tack Cloth so the TowerKote film will
stick well. Cover the aircraft with TowerKote film using the
sequence that follows. Make sure the TowerKote film is
thoroughly stuck to the structure and all of the edges are
sealed. Use a Top Flite Hot Sock™on your covering iron to
avoid scratching the finish.
When covering areas that involve sharp junctions, like the tail
section or around the root end of the wing, cut narrow strips
(1/4" to 3/8") and apply them in the corners before covering
the major surfaces. The larger pieces of TowerKote film will
overlap and capture these smaller pieces. This technique also
bypasses the need to cut the TowerKote film in these areas
after it has been applied. DO NOT, under any circumstances,
attempt to cut the covering material after it has been applied to
the fin and stab, except around the leading and trailing edges.
RECOMMENDED COVERING SEQUENCE:
❍ 1. Tail junction strips as described above
❍ 2. Wing/fuse junction
❍ 3. TE surfaces of wing
❍ 4. Bottom of left wing panel
❍ 5. Bottom of right wing panel
❍ 6. Top of left wing panel
❍ 7. Top of right wing panel
❍ 8. Fuse bottom
❍ 9. Fuse sides (use your precut pieces)
❍ 10. Fuse top
❍ 11. Stab bottom
❍ 12. Stab top
❍ 13. Fin left and right side
❍ 14. Rudder left & right side
❍ 15. Bottom of elevators
❍ 16. Top of elevators
❍ 17. Ends of ailerons
❍ 18. Bottom of ailerons
❍ 19. Top of ailerons
❍ 20. Top & bottom hatch covers

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FINAL HOOKUPS AND CHECKS
❍ 1. Cut a slot in the aft of the fuse for the tail gear bearing. Coat
the exposed wire with petroleum jelly. Work some 6-minute
epoxy into the slot, then insert the bearing. Wipe off any epoxy
before it cures with a paper towel moistened with alcohol.
❍ 2. Draw a centerline on the trailing edge of the fin, stabilizer
and wing. Refer to the plans, then mark and cut hinge slots for
all control surfaces. Mark and cut matching hinge slots on all
control surfaces. If you are using laminated CA style hinges, a
#11 blade in a hobby knife works well for cutting the slots.
❍ 3. Install the elevators and ailerons using your choice of
hinges. Pack the tail gear torque rod hole in the rudder with
6-minute epoxy, then install the rudder with its hinges.
❍ 4. Cut eight 1/8" long pieces of inner pushrod tube from
the 6-1/2" piece supplied. Cut 8" from the end of both of the
35" wire pushrods with threads on both ends. Slide four of
the plastic bushings onto each 27" long pushrod wire, spaced
as shown on the plans. If the plastic bushings will not slide on
the wire, cut them shorter. Screw a nylon clevis fourteen
revolutions on to each pushrod.
❍ 5. Remove the backing plate from two nylon control horns,
then snap a pushrod clevis on each of the horns. Slide the
pushrods into the guide tubes at the rear of the fuse. Position
the control horns on the elevator and rudder where shown
on the plans, then mark and drill 5/64" holes through the
control surfaces for the horn mounting screws. Mount the
control horns with the 2-56 x 5/8" machine screws. Remove
the pushrods but leave the control horns in position.
THROTTLE SERVO ELEVATOR SERVO
RUDDER SERVO
FRONT OF MODEL
BOTTOM OF MODEL
LOOKING THROUGH THE HATCH
❍ 6. Install three servos in the fuse as shown in the sketch. Note:
Sketch shows the bottom of the model looking through the hatch.

19
❍ 7. Reinstall the pushrods and attach them to the horns.
With the rudder and elevator positioned at neutral, mark the
pushrod where it aligns with the servo horn. Make Z-bends
at the marks or use pushrod keepers to attach the pushrods
to the servos.
❍ 8. Install a throttle linkage pushrod (not included) using
your preferred method.
❍ 9. Install the aileron servos in the wing, fishing the servo
leads through the paper tubes as you proceed. Connect the
servo leads to a Y-harness, then center the servo arms.
❍ 10. Install the aileron control horns where shown on the
plans. Attach clevises to the two 8" threaded pushrods (left
over from the elevator and rudder), then install them using
Z-bends or pushrod keepers.
❍ 11. Hook up the radio and adjust the control throws. The
control throws are suggested as a starting point and may be
increased or decreased once you are familiar with the flight
characteristics of your particular model.
CONTROL SURFACE THROWS
Control throw adjustment: By moving the position of the
clevis at the control horn toward the outermost hole, you
will decrease the amount of throw of that control surface.
Moving it toward the control surface will increase the
amount of throw. If these adjustments don’t accomplish
the job, you may need to work with a combination of
adjustments by also repositioning the pushrod at the
servo end. Moving the pushrod toward the splined shaft
on the servo will decrease the control surface throw —
outward will increase it.
We recommend these control surface throws as a starting point:
NOTE: Throws are measured at the widest part of the
elevators, rudder, and ailerons. If your radio does not have
dual rates, set the control throws halfway between the
specified high and low rates.
ELEVATOR: High Rate Low Rate
1/2" up [12.7mm] 3/8" up [9.5mm]
1/2" down 3/8" down
RUDDER: 1" right [25.4mm] 1" right [25.4mm]
1" left 1" left
AILERONS: 3/4" up [19mm] 3/8" up [9.5mm]
3/4" down 3/8" down

20
❍ 12. Make sure the control surfaces move in the proper
direction as illustrated in the following sketch:
FULL
THROTTLE
RUDDER
MOVES
RIGHT
ELEVATOR
MOVES DOWN
RIGHT AILERON
MOVES UP
LEFT AILERON
MOVES DOWN
4-CHANNEL RADIO SET UP
(STANDARD MODE 2)
❍ 13. Install the main landing gear wire using the four nylon
straps and #2 x 3/8" screws. Install the 2-1/2" main wheels
(not included).
❍ 14. Install the fuel tank, engine and muffler. Install the
propeller and spinner.
❍ 15. Trim the canopy to size. Hold it in position on the fuse,
then draw around its perimeter with a felt-tip pen. Cut away a
narrow strip of covering film, following the line you just drew.
Glue the canopy in position with RC-56 canopy glue or thin CA.
BALANCE YOUR MODEL
NOTE: This section is VERY important and must NOT be
omitted! A model that is not properly balanced will be unstable
and possibly unflyable.
3"
❍ 1. Accurately mark the balance point on the bottom of the
wing on both sides of the fuselage. The balance point is shown
on the plan (CG), and is located 3" (76mm) behind the leading
edge. This is the balance point at which your model should
balance for your first flights. Later, you may wish to experiment
by shifting the balance up to 1/4" forward or back to change