Tower Hobbies Tower Trainer 40 Ready-to-Fly User manual

Tower Trainer™40 Ready-to-Fly
RADIO CONTROLLED MODEL AIRPLANE
WARRANTY
Tower Hobbies®guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty
does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Tower Hobbies’ liability exceed the original
cost of the purchased it. Further, Tower Hobbies reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.
In that Tower Hobbies has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor
accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled
product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return this it
immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.
© opyright 2002 V1.0 TOWZ1154 for TOWA21**
READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND
WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.

ongratulations and thank you for purchasing the Tower Trainer .40
Ready-to-Fly. You’ve made the right decision by purchasing a “real”
model airplane with a .40-size engine and a 4-channel radio. Once
assembled and set up, there will be no fiddling with a temperamental
engine or constant troubleshooting to figure out how to get the
model to fly. Under the guidance of an experienced flight instructor,
all you’ll have to do is concentrate on learning to fly. And after
you’ve mastered the Trainer .40, the engine and radio may be
installed in your next model!
There are two parts to this manual. The first part, Assembly, guides
you through a few simple steps to put the model together. The second
part, Setup, takes you through initial adjustments and flight
preparation. Do not overlook any of the important setup procedures
and follow the instructions all the way to the end. Anything skipped
in the shop will have to be done at the field.
Here are the names of some of the parts of the model.
If there is no hobby shop in your area, contact the AMA (Academy
of Model Aeronautics), the governing body of model aeronautics.
The AMA can direct you to the closest R/ club whose membership
should have qualified flight instructors. With the added benefit of
insurance coverage provided by the AMA, most clubs require AMA
membership to fly at their field.
1. Your Tower Trainer .40 Ready-to-Fly should not be considered a
toy, but rather a sophisticated, working model that functions very
much like a full-size airplane. Because of its performance
capabilities, the Tower Trainer .40 Ready-to-Fly, if not assembled and
operated correctly, could possibly cause injury to yourself or
spectators and damage to property.
2. You must assemble the model according to the instructions. Do
not alter or modify the model, as doing so may result in an unsafe or
unflyable model. In a few cases the instructions may differ slightly
from drawings or sketches. In those instances the written instructions
should be considered as correct.
3. You must check the operation of the model before every flight to
insure that all equipment is operating and that the model has
remained structurally sound. Be sure to check clevises or other
connectors often and replace them if they show any signs of wear or
fatigue.
Before starting to build, inspect the parts in this kit to make sure they
are of acceptable quality. If any parts are defective or damaged, or if
you need assistance with assembly, contact Product Support.
Product Support:
Phone: [phone]
Fax: [phone]
E-mail: [email protected]
KIT INSPECTION
We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top quality kit and
instructions, but ultimately the quality and flyability of your
finished model depends on how you build it; therefore, we cannot
in any way guarantee the performance of your completed model,
and no representations are expressed or implied as to the
performance or safety of your completed model.
PROTECT OUR MODEL, OURSELF &
OTHERS...FOLLOW THESE IMPORTANT
SAFET PRECAUTIONS
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie. IN 47302-9252
Office: [phone]
Toll Free: [phone]
Fax: [phone]
or via the internet at: http//www.modelaircraft.org
IMPORTANT: Once mastered, piloting a model aircraft can be
one of the most enjoyable hobbies around. However, it cannot be
stated strongly enough that, if you do not already know how to fly
an R/ airplane, you will probably not be able to fly this model by
yourself. It may appear to be easy, but over-controlling and
disorientation quickly overcome inexperienced fliers, swiftly
ending their first flight. The best thing you can do to insure success
is to find a flight instructor who will inspect your model for
airworthiness and provide flying lessons. If you haven’t yet done
so, contact the local hobby shop and as them to introduce you
to an instructor or an R/C club representative. If there is no club
or experienced R/ pilot nearby, it would be worth even a long
drive to find one–if only for just a few flight lessons (then you’ll
have an idea of what to expect).
INTRODUCTION
2

The Tower .46 engine included with this model uses AB
construction (an Aluminum piston with a Brass cylinder liner that is
hrome plated). There is no piston ring, so the fit between the piston
and the liner is intentionally tight. When the engine is new, this built-
in “tightness” causes the propeller to be difficult to rotate when the
piston gets to the top—the engine may even squeak. Do not be
alarmed because this is normal. After the engine has been run a few
times the propeller will be easier to turn and the squeaking will
disappear.
Notice: Due to the initial “tightness” of this engine, using an electric
starter is highly recommended—at least until the engine has been
broken-in. If you do not have an electric starter, starting the engine
with a model engine starting stick is acceptable. If started this way,
first lubricate the engine with model engine after run oil
(H AP3000). To do so, remove the glow plug, add five to seven
drops of oil to the top of the piston, then rotate the propeller at least
one-dozen times. Replace the glow plug. Now the engine may be
started with the starting stick.
When ready to fly, you’ll need the equipment to fuel the plane and
start the engine. The most important items include an electric starter,
12 Volt battery, fuel pump (electric or hand-crank), fueling lines and
fittings and a 1.5 Volt glow plug igniter. Your flight instructor may
share his equipment with you for a while, but eventually you’ll need
your own. Visit your local hobby dealer or see the Tower Hobbies
catalog for a full selection, descriptions and pricing. You can also
visit our web site at www.towerhobbies.com.
FIELD EQUIPMENTENGINE STARTING
3
1/64" = .4 mm
1/32" = .8 mm
1/16" = 1.6 mm
3/32" = 2.4 mm
1/8" = 3.2 mm
5/32" = 4.0 mm
3/16" = 4.8 mm
1/4" = 6.4 mm
3/8" = 9.5 mm
1/2" = 12.7 mm
5/8" = 15.9 mm
3/4" = 19.0 mm
1" = 25.4 mm
2" = 50.8 mm
3" = 76.2 mm
6" = 152.4 mm
12" = 304.8 mm
18" = 457.2 mm
21" = 533.4 mm
24" = 609.6 mm
30" = 762.0 mm
36" = 914.4 mm
METRIC CONVERSIONS

❍1. For safety reasons, the model is shipped with the battery pack
in the model (the receiver battery) disconnected. In the fuselage,
connect the plug from the battery pack, colored red, to the plug from
the on/off switch, labeled BATTERY.”
❍2. Presently, the batteries are not fully charged. They may require
additional charging for setting up the radio later. If you plan to
assemble the plane now, the batteries may be charged later. If you
plan to assemble the plane later, charge the batteries following the
instructions in the instruction manual supplied for the radio control
system. Note: When charging the receiver battery, connect the
charger to the plug labeled CHARGE” inside the fuselage.
❍1. Guide the aileron servo wire under the servo tray and out of
the wing.
❍2. Join both wing halves using the joiner rod and the alignment pin.
❍3. Use two metal straps and four 3 x 8mm screws (the small
screws with the washers attached) to hold the wing halves together.
(Note the metal strap near the trailing edge of the wing, partially
concealed in the photo). Connect the pushrods to the torque rod
horns with the clevises and clevis retainers.
❍1. Insert the main landing gear wires into the holes in the landing
gear rail in the bottom of the fuselage. Secure the gear with two
nylon straps and four 3 x 12mm screws.
❍2. Insert both wood wing dowels into the fuselage. Secure both
ends of each dowel with a plastic dowel cap and a 3 x 8mm screw.
Assemble the Fuselage
Assemble the Wing
Charge the Batteries
ASSEMBLY
4

❍3. Insert the horizontal stabilizer (also referred to as the stabilizer,”
or just stab”) into the fuselage. Insert the vertical stabilizer (also
referred to as fin”) into the stab, guiding the threaded rods through
the holes in the stab and the bottom of the fuselage.
❍4. Secure the fin and stab with a 3mm washer and 3mm lock nut
on each threaded rod. Be certain to tighten the nuts securely, but do
not over tighten so as to damage the bottom of the fuselage.
❍5. Connect the clevis on the elevator pushrod to the second-from-
the-bottom hole in the elevator control horn. Connect the clevis on
the rudder pushrod to the middle hole in the rudder control horn.
❍6. Fit the spinner back plate, followed by the propeller, propeller
washer and propeller nut on the engine. Position the propeller so it
is contacting the molded-in alignment pegs on the back plate.
Tighten the prop nut with your fingers.
❍7. Use a 7/16" wrench, an 11mm wrench or a crescent wrench to
tighten the prop nut 1/2 turn, plus 1/8 turn. Fit the spinner cone to
the back plate, then use a #1 Phillips screwdriver to tighten the
spinner screws.
If you have not yet charged the batteries, you may still proceed.
However, as the batteries have not yet been fully charged, they may
not provide enough power to make it all the way through the setup
procedures. If the batteries quit working, set your tools aside and
charge the batteries as described in the instruction manual for the
Tower Hobbies radio control system that came with this kit.
Now the plane is assembled, but there are a few things that must
be done before it will be ready to fly. You must carefully perform
all of the following Setup procedures. If possible, have your flight
instructor assist.
SETUP
+ 1/8 Turn
1/2 Turn
CAUTION: The m del is n t yet ready t fly.
Pr ceed t the setup pr cedures in the f ll wing
secti n t prepare the m del f r flying.

The first thing that has t be d ne is t make sure all the c ntr ls
m ve in the right directi n.
❍1. Connect the aileron servo wire coming from the wing to the
plug labeled AILERON” coming from the receiver inside the
fuselage. Temporarily mount the wing to the fuselage with a couple
of #64 rubber bands supplied with this kit.
❍2. Turn on the transmitter, followed by the receiver. (The idea is to
never have the receiver on by itself. When turning off the system,
turn off the receiver first, then the transmitter.)
❍3. Move the right control stick on the transmitter to the right as
shown in the diagram. Observe the direction the ailerons move. The
right aileron should move up and the left aileron should move down.
Moving the control stick to the left should make the ailerons move
the opposite way. If the ailerons do not respond as described, reverse
the direction using the reversing switch for the aileron on the
transmitter. If necessary, refer to the instructions in the Tower Hobbies
instruction manual to identify and operate the reversing switch.
❍4. Move the right stick down and observe the direction the
elevator moves. Moving the right stick down should make the
elevator move up. Move the left stick to the right and observe the
rudder. Moving the stick to the right should make the rudder (and the
nose wheel) move to the right. Move the left stick down and make
sure the carburetor closes. If necessary, use the reversing switches on
the transmitter to make the elevator, rudder and throttle respond in
the correct direction.
The next thing that has t be d ne is t make sure the c ntr ls m ve
the c rrect am unt.
The control throws are a measure of how far the flight controls
(ailerons, elevator and rudder) move. If the controls move too much,
the plane will respond too quickly and be difficult to control. If the
controls do not move enough, it may not be possible to recover the
plane from adverse situations or to flare for landing. Due to the great
effect the control throws have on the way a model flies, the control
throws must be checked.
Set the C ntr l Thr ws
Note that pulling the elevator stick back moves the elevator up
(which, in flight, pushes the tail down, thus increasing the angle of
the wing, thereby making the model climb). The best way to keep
this in mind is to think in terms of a pilot in an airplane. He pulls
the control stick back to pull up” the nose of the plane.
Move Stick Right
Rudder (and Nosewheel)
Move Right
Pull Stick Back (Down)
Elevator Moves Up
Move Stick Right
Right Aileron Goes Up
Left Aileron Goes Down
Check the C ntr l Directi ns
6

❍1. Make certain the pushrods are connected to the servo arms as
follows: The elevator pushrod should be in the second hole out on
the servo arm, the rudder pushrod should be in the third hole out on
the servo arm, and the aileron pushrods should be in the second hole
out on the servo arm. If the pushrods are not connected to the servo
arms as described, remove the nylon connector, insert the pushrod
in the correct hole, then reinstall the nylon connector.
❍2. Turn on the transmitter and receiver. Center all the trim levers
on the transmitter.
We’ll d the elevat r first…
❍3. View the elevator and stab from the end. The elevator should be
centered as shown in the sketch at the top. If the elevator is not
centered with the stab (as shown in the bottom sketch), disconnect
the clevis from the elevator control horn. Holding the end of the
pushrod with pliers, thread or unthread the clevis as necessary until
the elevator is centered when reconnected to the pushrod.
❍4. Hold a ruler to the trailing edge of the elevator, resting one end
on the workbench. Move the elevator all the way up by moving the
control stick on the transmitter all the way down. Measure the
distance the elevator moves. As shown in the chart on page 8, the
elevator should move up 7/16" [11mm]. Measure the distance the
elevator moves down.
❍5. If the elevator moves up 7/16" [11mm] and down 7/16" [11mm]
the elevator throw is correct (a variance of 1/16" [1.5mm] is
acceptable). If the elevator does not move up and down 7/16"
[11mm], the elevator pushrod must be move to a different hole in
either the servo arm and/or the control horn. This will change the
geometry and increase or decrease the throw. Refer to the diagram
on the following page and relocate the elevator pushrod as necessary
to adjust the throw so the elevator will move up and down 7/16" [11mm].
Stabilizer Elevator
Elevator NOT Centered With Stab
Elevator Centered With Stab
7

To get the controls to move farther (increase the throw), connect the
pushrod to a hole farther in on the control horn, or connect the
pushrod to a hole farther out on the servo arm. To get the controls to
move less (decrease the throw), connect the pushrod the opposite as
described above.
❍6. Center the rudder and ailerons by adjusting the clevises on the
pushrods as necessary. Measure the rudder and aileron throws the
same as was done with the elevator. Refer to the Control Throws
Chart below for the correct measurements. If any of the throws are
not correct, the throws must be adjusted by moving the pushrod to a
different hole in either the servo arm or the control horn as
previously described.
❍7. If necessary, center the nose wheel by loosening the screw in
the screw-lock pushrod connector on the rudder servo arm. Move
the pushrod forward or back to center the wheel. Securely tighten
the screw.
The throttle is to be set up so that when the throttle stick is all the way
down, and the throttle trim lever is all the way up, the carburetor will
be nearly, but not fully closed and the engine will idle at a low RPM.
This will keep the engine running when the throttle stick is pulled all
the way down (toward you) for landing. When it is time to shut the
engine off after landing, move the trim lever down to close the
carburetor the rest of the way.
Here’s h w t set up the carburet r…
❍1. With the transmitter and receiver on, move the throttle trim
lever and the throttle stick all the way down.
❍2. Observe the opening in the carburetor. If the carburetor is fully
closed, proceed to step 3. If the carburetor is nearly, but not fully
closed, loosen the screw on the screw-lock connector on the throttle
servo arm and move the pushrod back until the carburetor is closed.
Securely tighten the screw.
❍3. Move the throttle trim lever all the way up, but leave the throttle
stick all the way down. Now the carburetor should be partially open
(about 1/32" to 1/16" [1 to 1.5mm]).
Trim Lever Up
Throttle
Stick Down
Trim Lever Down
Throttle
Stick Down
Adjust the Thr ttle
CONTROL THROWS CHART
AILERONS: 5/16" [8mm] up 5/16" [8mm] down
ELEVATOR: 7/16" [11mm] up 7/16" [11mm] down
RUDDER: 1" [25mm] right 1" [25mm] left
8

❍4. Move the throttle stick all the way up. The carburetor should be
fully open.
❍5. If you are not able to achieve these settings, more or less
movement may be required from the throttle pushrod. The same as
the control surface throws, this is done by relocating the clevis on the
carburetor arm to the other hole, or by relocating the pushrod
connector on the servo arm to another hole.
Whether you fly at an R/C club or somewhere on your own, you
should have your name, telephone number, address and AMA
number on or in your model so it can be identified and returned in
case it lands somewhere away from the flying site. Fill out the I.D.
tag found in the back of the manual and use spray adhesive or tape
to stick it in the model.
This important step is also referred to as checking the C.G.” (center
of gravity). Simply stated, the center f gravity is the point at which
the model balances when lifted under the wing. If the C.G. is too far
forward, the model will be nose-heavy” and could be difficult to
takeoff and land and lose some of its self-correcting tendencies. If the
C.G. is too far aft, the model will be tail-heavy” and the controls
may be too sensitive, making the model too difficult to control–especially
for an inexperienced pilot! DO NOT DISREGARD THIS STEP!
Follow the instructions to balance the model correctly, thus giving
you the greatest chances for success!
❍1. Use narrow tape or a felt-tip pen to mark two lines on the
bottom of the wing where shown in the photo.
❍2. Make certain the model is in ready-to-fly” condition with all
components mounted and installed (propeller, spinner, landing gear,
etc.). The fuel tank must be empty.
❍3. Mount the wing to the fuselage with four rubber bands. Lift the
model on both sides of the fuselage with your fingertips between the
lines on the bottom of the wing.
❍4. Position your fingers anywhere between the lines until you can
get the fuselage level. If the tail remains low even when your fingers
are on the aft line, the model is tail-heavy and will require weight on
the nose to get it to balance. If, however, the nose of the model
remains low even when your fingers are on the forward line, the
model is nose-heavy and will require weight on the tail to get it to
balance. Out of the box” the model should balance with your
fingers between the lines, but they will probably be nearer the front
line. This is okay as long as you can get the model to balance with
your fingers anywhere between the lines.
If additional weight is required to balance the plane, purchase Great
Planes Self Adhesive Lead Weights (GPMQ4485). The weight is
Balance the M del
Identify Y ur M del
9

segmented in 1/4 oz. increments and is easy to work with. If adding
weight to the tail, attach it to the left side of the fuselage (opposite
the muffler) under the stab. If adding weight to the nose, attach it to
the inside of the fuselage next to the engine.
❍5. If you found it necessary to add weight, recheck the C.G. after
doing so.
Note: Once you have mastered flying the Tower Trainer .40 Ready-
to-Fly, you may experiment by moving the C.G forward or aft, as long
as it remains between the lines. Moving the C.G. forward (adding
weight to the nose) will improve the model’s stability, but may make
it a little more difficult to flare for landing. Moving the C.G. aft
(adding weight to the tail) will increase the model’s maneuverability,
but could also make it too sensitive for beginners to control. Never
move the C.G. outside the lines.
Now it’s time to do a final check before taking the model to the field.
These checks are best done in the peace and comfort of your own
shop, so take the time now to make certain your model is ready.
❍1. Check to see that the screws on the wheel collars that hold on
the wheels are fully tightened.
❍2. Be certain the silicone retainers on all the nylon clevises are
in position.
❍3. Make certain the elevator, rudder and ailerons respond in the
correct directions.
❍4. Make certain the wing is securely joined with the metal straps.
❍5. Check to see that the nuts that hold the fin and stab in
position are present and secure.
❍6. Inspect the rubber bands that hold the wing on and make sure
they are in good condition.
❍7. Make certain the propeller and propeller spinner are secure.
❍8. Make certain you have balanced the model according to the
instructions.
❍9. Check to see that the screws that hold the servo arms to the
servos are present and secure.
❍10. Make certain you have filled out the I.D. card and placed it
inside the model.
If you haven’t already done so, refer to the Tower Hobbies instruction
manual for the radio control system and charge the batteries in the
plane and in the transmitter overnight the night before you go flying.
In addition the equipment required to fuel and start the engine
mentioned near the beginning of the manual, you should start a
collection of tools that may be required for adjustments and
maintenance at the flying field. Following is a list of the most
important items.
Tools:
❍Medium (#1) Phillips screwdriver
❍Large (#2) Phillips screwdriver
❍5/16" (or 8mm) Socket wrench (for glow plug)
❍7/16" or 11mm Wrench or crescent wrench (for propeller nut)
❍Pliers
❍Hobby knife
Spare Parts:
❍10 x 6 propellers
❍Glow plug
❍#64 rubber bands (stored in container with talcum powder or
kitty litter)
Flight preparati n is t be d ne at the flying field.
Be certain y ur flight instruct r perf rms these f ll wing checks
with y u.
❍1. Get the frequency clip from the frequency control board at your
flying site.
❍2. Mount the wing to the fuselage with the #64 rubber bands
supplied with this kit. Ten to twelve rubber bands are suggested. Be
certain the final two are "crisscrossed," thus ensuring that the others
remain secure.
❍3. Turn on the transmitter and receiver. One at a time, operate
each control on the airplane using the sticks on the transmitter. Make
certain each control is responding correctly. This must be done before
every flight. There are several types of malfunctions that can be discovered
by performing this elementary task, thus saving your model!
Check the C ntr ls
IMPORTANT: Your radio control system transmits a signal on a
certain frequency. Be certain you know what the frequency is. This
is expressed as a two-digit number (42, 56, etc.), and can be found
on the container the transmitter came in and is also located on the
transmitter. There are several different frequencies, but there is still
a chance that someone else at the flying field may be on the same
frequency as you. If you turn on your transmitter while that person
is flying, a crash will result. NEVER turn on your transmitter until
you have permission from your instructor, and until you have
possession of the frequency clip used for frequency control at the
flying site.
FLIGHT PREPARATION
Gather Y ur T ls
Charge the Batteries
Ten-P int Check List
10