UnionSpecial 39600 CU Instruction sheet

FINEST
QUALITY
LEWIS
INDUSTRIAL
SEWING
MAIHINES
CLASS
39600
HI-STYLED
HIGH
SPEED
FOUR
THREAD
INTERMITTENT DIFFERENTIAL
FEED
SAFETY
STITCH
MACHINES
Züe€ciai
CHICAGO
.
.
C
0
L
U
M
B
I
A
I
I
N
STYLE
39600CU
CATALOG
No.
127P
MACHINE
COMPANY
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

(‘atalo No,
127
P
(Suiilement
to
Catalog
No.
127
N)
INSTIIUCTIONS
l
()
11
ADJUSTINC
ANI)
OPERATINC
LiST
OF
PARTS
CLASS
39600
Style
39600 CU
First
Edition
Copyright
1968
.1
ly
Union
Special
Machine Co.
Rights
Reserved
in
All
Countries
üecia
MACHINE
COMPANY
INDUSTRIAL
SEWING
MACHINES
CHICAGO
Printed
in
L
S.
A,
March,
1968
2
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

IDENrfTFICATiON
()i’
M
AC
I II
N
IS
Iach IJnion
Special
machine
is
identified
by
a
Style
number
on
a
name
plate
on
the
machine.
Style numbers
are
classified
as
Standard
and
Special.
Standard
Style
numbers
have
one
or
more
letters
suffixed
but
never
contain
the
letter ‘‘Z’’.
Example:
‘‘Style
39600
(.U’’.
Special
Style
numbers
contain
the
letter
‘‘Z’’.
When
only
minor
changes
are
made in
a
standard
machine,
a
‘‘Z’’
is
suffixed
to
the
Standard
Style
numhe
r.
ixample:
Style
39600
CUZ”.
Styles
of
machines
similar
in
construction
are
grouped
under a
class
number
which
differs
from
the
style
number
in
that
it
contains
no
letters.
Example:
‘396OO.
The
distance
between
the
rows
of
stitches
or
between
the
needles
is
represented
by
a
gauge
number
measured
in
l/64ths
of
an
inch,
going
from
left
to
right.
The
width
of
overeclge
is
represented
by
a
fraction.
Collectively,
the
gauge
number
and
the
width
of
overedge
represent
the
machine
gauge.
Example:
“5
1/8”.
Thus,
5
1/3 gauge
represents
a
distance
of
5/64
inch
between
the
left
needle
(401
stitch)
and
the
right
needle
(503
or
504
stitch)
and
the
1/8
represents
the
width of
overedge
to
the
right
of
the
right
hand
needle.
APPLICATION
OF
CATALOG
This
catalog
is
a
supplement
to
Catalog
No,
127
N
and
should
be
used
in
conjunction
therewith,
Only
those
parts
used
on
Style
39600
CU,
but
not
used
on
Style
39600
CP
are
illustrated
and
listed
at
the
back
of
this catalog.
On
the
page
opposite
the
illustration
will
be
found
a listing
of
the
parts,
with
their
part
numbers,
description
and
the
number
of
pieces
required.
Numbers
in
the
first
column
are
reference
numbers
only,
and
merely
indicate
the
position
of
that
part
in
the
illustration,
Reference numbers
should
never
be
used
in
ordering
parts.
Always
use
the
part
number
listed
in
the
second
column.
This catalog
applies
specifically
to
the
Standard
Style of
machine
as
listed
here
in,
It
can
also
be
applied
with
discretion
to
some Special Styles
of
machines
in
this
class,
Reference
to
direction,
such
as
right,
left,
front,
back,
etc.,
are
given
from
the
operator’s
position
while
seated at
the
machine.
Operating
direction
of
handwheel
is
away from
operator,
STYLE
OF
MACHINE
Two
Curved
Needles,
Left
Needle
in
Front,
Two
Looper,
One
Spreader,
Four
Thread
Dual
Stitch
Machine,
401
Double
Locked
Stitch
on
Left
Needle
and
503
Two
Thread
Overedge
Stitch
on
Right
Rear
Needle,
Intermittent
Differential
Feed,
Straight
Upper
Knife,
Trimming
Mechanism
with
Spring
Pressed
Lower
Knife,
Automatic
Lubricating
System.
39600
CU
Medium
to
heavy
duty
machine, for
seaming
and
intermittently
gathering
or
shirring
on
woven
materials
such
as
dresses,
aprons,
lingerie,
smocks,
nightgowns
and
similar
garments.
Knee
press controlled
tandem
intermittent
differential
feed.
A
second
knee press
for
lifting
presser
foot and
pressure
plate
assembly.
Independent
swing-out
pressure
plate
attachment
for
shirring.
Gathering
up
to
5
to
1
depending
on
stitch
length.
Seam
specification
(401-503)
5l5-SSa-2.
Standard
gauge
and
seam
widths
are
5
1/8
and
12
3/16. Stitch
range 8
to
16
per
inch;
cam
adjusted
main
and
differential
feeds.
Needle
Type
158
GJ
for 401
stitch and
needle
Type
154
GAS
for 503
stitch.
Maximum
re
commended
speed
up
to
5500
H.
P.
M.,
depending
on
operation
and
ratio
of
shirring
required.
3
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

Ii
NC
A I ‘II
(
)N
(
‘iii
was
i
nc’cI
from
machi
no
when
shipped,
so
reservoir
must
ho
I 10(1
beloce
huginmng
to operate.
Oil
capacity
of
Class
39600
is
sb ounces.
A
straight
mine
tal
oil
ol
a Saybolt
VISCOSity
ol
200
to
250
seconds
at
100
.h’ahtcnhe
it
should he
used,
IViachine
is filled
with
oil
at spring
cap
in
top
cover,
Oil
level
is
checked
at the
sight
gauge
on
iront
ol
the
machine.
Red
bulb
on the oil
level
indicator should
show
betWeen
cauge
lines.
iViachic
is
automatically
lubricated,
No
oiling
is
necessary,
other
than
keeping
main
iese
rvoi
i
filled.
Check
oil
daily
before
the
morning start;
add
oil
as required.
‘The
oil
drain
plug
screw
is located at
the back
of machine
near
bottom edge
of
base,
it is
a
magnetic screw
designed
to
accumulate possible
foreign
materials
which
may
have
entered
the
crank
case,
It
should
be
removed
and
cleaned
period
ically.
NEEDLES
Each
Union
Special
needle has
both
a
type
and
size
number. The
type
number
denotes
the
kind
of
shank,
point,
length,
groove,
finish
and
other
details.
The
size
number,
stamped
on the
needle
shank,
denotes
largest
diameter
of
blade,
measured
in
thousandths
of
an inch,
midway
between
shank
and
eye.
Collectively,
type
and
size
number
represent
the
complete
symbol
which
is
given
on
the label
of all
needles
packaged
and
sold
by
Union
Special.
Two
needles
having
different lengths
are
used
in
this
machine.
The
shorter
needle for
the
overedge
stitch,
located
at
the
right,
is
Type
154
GAS.
It
is
a
round
shank,
round
point,
curved
blade,
standard
length,
single
groove, struck
groove,
spotted,
chromium plated
needle
and
is
available
in sizes
022, 025, 027, 029,
032,
036,
040, 044, 049,
054.
The
longer
needle
for
the
401
stitch,
located
at
the
left,
is
Type
158
GJ.
It
is
a
round
shank,
round
point,
curved
blade,
flat
tapered
blade, Class
‘B
length,
double
groove,
milled
groove,
long spot,
government
point,
chromium
plated
needle
and
is available
in
sizes
027,
029,
032,
036, 040,
044.
To
have
needle
orders
promptly
and
accurately
filled,
an
empty package,
a
sample
needle,
or the
type
and
size
number
should
be
forwarded.
Use
description
on label.
A
complete
order
would
read:
ITl000
Needles,
Type
154 GAS, Size
036.
Selection
of
proper
needle
size
is
determined
by
size
of
thread
used.
Thread
should
pass
freely
through needle
eye
in
order
to
produce
a
good
stitch
formation.
Success
in the
operation
of Union
Special
machines
can
be
secured
only
by use
of
needles
packaged
under
our
brand
name,
[email protected],ccicd
,
which
is
backed
by a
reputation
for producing
highest
quality
needles
in materials
and
workmanship
for
more
than
three-quarters
of
a
century.
CHANGING
NEEDLES
Release
pressure
on
presser
foot by
turning
the
presser
foot
release
bushing
(A,
Fig.
1)
and
swinging
presser
arm
(B)
out
of
position. Turn
handwheel
in
op
erating direction
(away
from
operator)
until
needle
holding
screws
are
just
exposed
from
behind
presser
spring
plunger
and
accessible
to
screw
driver.
Loosen
screws
and
withdraw
needles.
When
replacingneedles
observe the
position
of the
flat which
is
at
the left
of
the
shank
and
be
sure
the
needles
are
inserted
the
full
depth
to
the
combination
eyelet
and
stop
plate.
4
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

I
‘Tells
loll
Nut
l’eiis
1(11
U
I
F(’iis
i(
II
l)l’
I Il
‘Fe
-iion
P1)51
Spring Shield
LI
Tension
Discs.>
Tension Post
Slot
Tension
Disc Felt
G
FOR
PERMA PRESS
TYPE
A44TER/AL
—401
1\JEEJLE
Ti4PAo/W&
IS
INDICATED
BY
TAlE
BROKEN
LIME
8ETWEN EYELET
(&)
A1\ID
EYELET(Y).
Fig.
1
5
/
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

II I{
iA
1)1
N(
)iiiy
parts
iiiv’oi.
ved
in
threading
aie shown
in
threading
diag:r
am (Iig’,
1).
I ‘arts
piced
in
them r
relative
posito)ns
br
clarity,
‘I’Ineacl
from
tli ream
I stand
((
)
15
th:rcaded
throukim
the
upper
holes
of tens
on
thread
guide
(I))
irom
i’ont
to
hack
and
then
through
the
lower
holes
from
back
to
iront
rI11e
threads
then c
omit nue
between
the
tension
discs
(1
),
through
tens:ion
post
s
lot
(
I)
in tension
post
(1
)
and
on through
front
thr
eac[
guide
((
),
tt will
simplify
the
threading
of
mach:ine
to
follow
the recom
mended
sequence as
designated
by
the
numbe
is
assigned
to
each
thread,
starting
with
thread
No,
1,
then
No.
2,
etc.
rI•he
various
eyelets
and
guides
on
the
machine for
each
thread
have
been
color
coded
to
further
aid
the
threading
plocess.
Thus
the
sequence
for
Style
39600
CU
is
as
follows:
Thread
No.
1,
lower
looper
thread,
yellow
color
code;
thread
No,
2, 401
looper
thread,
blue
color
code;
thread
No.
3,
401 needle
thread,
red color
code,
thread
No,
4,
overedge
needle
thread,
green
color
code,
l3efore
beginning
to
thread,
swing
cloth
plate
open,
turn
handwheel
in operating
direction until
the
needles
(i-I)
are
at
their
highest
position,
release
pressure
on
presser
foot
by turning
presser
foot
release
bushing
(A),
and swing
presser
arm
(13)
out
of
position,
RAISE
401
LOOPER
ThREAD
TAKEUP
EYELET
(J)
BY
RELEASING
EYE
LET
LATCh
(K)
AND
RAISING
EYELET
THREADING LOWER
LOOPER
(Thread
No,
1-Yellow
Color
Code)
Double
end
of
lower
looper
thread
(#1)
and
lead
it
through
both
eyes
of
lower
looper
thread
eyelet
(NI)
from
right
to
left,
NOTE:
Thread
must
pass
through
the
inside
of
needle
thread
cam
pull-off
(N),
Lead
thread
back under
hook
of
fabric
guard
bracket
(P)
and
through
eye of
frame
looper
thread
guide
(R).
Turn
handwheel
in
operating
direction
until
heel
of
lower
looper
(5)
is
all
the way
to
the
left;
then
thread
through
left
eye,
entering
from
the
rear,
and
then
through
the
right
eye
en
tering
from
the
front,
Left eye
of lower
looper
can he
threaded easily
if tweezers
are
held
with
the
left hand,
THREADING
401
LOOPER
(Thread
No.
2-Blue Color
Code)
Double end
of
401
looper
thread
(#2)
and
lead
it
through
both
eyes
of looper
thread
take—up
eyelet
(J)
from
left
to
right,
when
the
eyelet
is
in
raised
position.
Return
eyelet
to
its
lower
position
by
pressing
it
down,
When
eyelet
is in correct
position,
latch
will snap
into
place,
Pass
thread
under
knife
arm,
into
groove
of
the
upper
knife
support
block
(T),
and
over
hook
(U).
Bring
needle
arm
to bottom
of
its
stroke,
Insert
double end
of thread
in
right
eye
of 401
looper
(V)
and push
through
an inch
or
so
of
thread,
Holding
tweezers
in
left
hand
insert
doubled
end
of thread
into
left
eye,
using
about
3/16
inch
projection
of
thread
from
point
of
tweezers,
DO
NOT
THREAD
LOOPER
WITH
NEEDLE
LOOP
AROUND
LOOPER.
REMOVE
LOOP,
OTHERWISE
MACHINE
WILL
NOT SEW.
THREADING
401 NEEDLE
(Thread
No.
3-Red
Color
Code)
Lower
needle
arm
to
bottom
of
its
stroke,
by
turning
handwheel
in operating
direction.
Threading
from
left
to
right,
pass
the 401
needle
thread
(#3)
through
both
eyes
of
needle
thread
pull—off
eyelet
(W),
passing
over
the outside
of the
needle
6
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

‘I’IIH
HAI)IN( 401 Nlll)Ll
(Thi’eacl
No,
3—lIed
Color
Code)
(Continued)
thi’ead (aol
pull
—oft (N).
Then thread through
eyelet
(\)
from
front to back,
I hrougli
the
lop eye
ot
needle di’ iv ing arm tln’ead
eyelet
(Y
),
through lower
eye and finally
th tough
the eye
of
the left
needle
(II),
H ai
se
needle hy rotating
handwheel
in operat—.
ing (Ii z’cc ti ON and th i’ead needle born lt’ont
to
hack,
N(
)‘ll: When sewing
pe
i’ in a-.pre
ss type ni
aterial, thread
should
pass
through both
eyes
ol needle thread
pull—off eyelet
(W)
from
right
to left, then through
both
eyes
of eyelet
(V
)
and finally
through the needle,
TI I lI1Al )l NC ()VE REDC;E
NEED1
(Thread
No,
4—Creen Color
Code)
Turn handwheel in
operating
(lirection until the needle
is
at
its highest position.
Pass ove
redge
needle thread
(#4)
under
overhanging arm
of top cover and
clown
through hole in
iop
cover needle thread eyelet
(Z).
Thread needle
(I[)
from front
to
1) a (‘
k.
TI [READ TENSION
The
amount
of tension on
the
needle
and looper
threads is regulated
by the
knurled tension nuts
(AA,
Fig,
1),
Tension on the threads should
be only enough to
secure proper stitch
formation.
Using
a
postal
scale,
the
measurements
are taken
with
the needles
at
the
top
of
their
stroke
and
pulled
in the
direction as indicated.
As a start the
tensions
may be as follows:
401
needle thread;
1 oz.
straight out of lower eye
of
needle
arm
eyelet
(Y),
Overedge needle thread;
1
to 1
1/2
oz.
straight out of thread guide
(G).
401
looper thread;
1
1/2
to 2 oz.
straight out of looper thread eyelet
(U).
Lower
looper thread;4 to
41/2
oz. straight out of frame looper thread
guide
(R).
FEED ECCENTRICS
Feed eccentrics
used in Style
39600
CU machines have been
selected to produce
approximately
12
stitches per
inch. It
will be noted
that
the part number
of main
feed eccentric
is
No.
39540 B-12
while
that
of the differential feed
eccentric
is
No,
39540 C. Minor
numbers
of the part
symbol
indicate
approximately the number
of
stitches obtainable when
using that
eccentric, Unless otherwise
specified,
machine
will be shipped with above
combination of’ eccentrics,
Generally speaking, the main (right
hand)
feed eccentric
determines the number
of stitches produced, the differential
(left hand)
feed eccentric is selected
so
asto
give
the
proper
differential
or
gathering action.
Following stitch
number feed eccentrics are available under No,
39540 13-4,
—5,
—6,
—7, —8, —9,
—10, —11,
—12,
—13, —14, —15,
—16, —18, —20, —22, —24, -.26, —28,
—30,
—32,
-34, —36, -40.
Only two eccentrics are supplied
with each machine.
Additional
eccentrics may be ordered separately. To order
an
eccentric,
use
No. 39540 13
with a
minor number suffixed to indicate number of
stitches desired.
Example:
39540 B—12 1 .
7
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

1\ShlHVllLlNC ANI) AI)UJS’l’INC
Ht’vVIN(
lfl’lS
All ol thu
adjusting iiLintiotu- for
Sly In
!)60( (U
)VCi’u(l
ill Catalog
No, 127 N
ate ippli(al)lC ion
blyle
.P)hO()
(U.
llw(’vni’, lot’
blylu
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(‘II
titete ate ad—
(litioltal
iiu-tiu(tions
lot’
setting tile (liliei’ential
t’atioan(l
the
pi’ussut’e
plate assembly
as
null i ned be low,,
Sl’l’l’I N(
ll
ll 1)1
IIUItlN’IiAI ItATI(
I)ifleiential lend action
is
obtainable thin
the use
of two
mIcrometer adjusting
S
C I’C
W S.
The position of the differential control levet
(A,
F
Pg
27)
is
governed by an
upper
stop
(B) and
a
lower
stop
(C).
‘Ihe amount
of ievei’
moVement between
these two
stops
determ inc
s
the teed action,
rl1e
d
iffet’entiai
feed
anti
on is also controlled by the movement of
the
differential
control lever
between
an
upper
and a
lower stop, but both
stops are
moved by an
adu
sting
thu
mb
crew
rod.
To set the amount of differential
or
plain
feed, turn
the plain feed control adjusting rod,
it is the larger knurled head screw located on
the bed in back of
the tension post
assembly.
Turning
this rod clockwise
decreases
the
amount of differential and turning
it counter
clockwise
increases the amount of differential.
The amount of intermittent differential
feed
is set by turning the differential feed control
adjusting rod,
it is
the
smaller
knurled
head
screw
located
just above the
plain feed control
adjusting
rod. Turning this screw
clockwise
lowers
the
stop
and
thus increases the amount
of
differential, when the differential feed con
trol lever
is
actuated. Turning
this
screw
counterclockwise
acts the reverse.
SETTING THE AUXILIARY PRESSURE PLATE
This machine is equipped with an auxiliary pressure plate
assembly (Fig.
28)
which operates in conjunction with the
presser
foot. Check
to operation of this
assembly as follows:
1. With assembly in operating position, check to be sure
latch
spring
(C,
Fig.
28)
is
in notch of
shaft
bracket
(G)
when shaft bracket is
up
against
the front of
bracket
(C,
Fig.
29).
If adjustment is necessary
loosen screws
(H,
Fig.
28)
and
position latch spring.
2.
Swing
assembly out of operating position
and
see
that it
hinges freely on its
pivot. Adjustment
is
made with
screw (A,
Fig.
28)
and Nut
(B).
3. Adjust
shaft
(D)
laterally so
that
the pressure
plate
(E)
locates centrally over
the differential
feed dog. Loosen
screws
(A
and
B, Fig.
29)
to
do this.
Making
this adjustment will
release the spring tension on the
pressure plate.
To re
gain the
tension, swing
the
pessure
plate out
and
turn the shaft
(D,
Fig.
28)
in either direction
about
180 from operating position
and
tighten screw
(B,
Fig.
29).
Fig.
27
8
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

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ATE
(Continued)
4,
With the
(II
tier cntial
iced
(lOL
(lowli
below
I.Iit’ surlace ol
the
throat
plate, and
the
pie
ssure
p
I
a
I.e rest
i
w
on
the throat
plate
xvi
th
the maximum
pre—
SSU ?.C the spi’ ing
will
allow,
there should he
about 1
/
32
nch clearance
between
the
operat[ng
levei’
(1’,
Fig.
28)
and
the hinge block
(C).
To
make
this adjustment
loosen
screw
(A,
Vig.
29)
and move
lever
to desired
position.
5.
With the
difl’erential feed
dog
at its
highest point
of
travel,
raise or
lower
the
mounting
bracket
(C,
Fig.
29) so
that
the
auxiliary
pressure plate is
parallel
with feed dog
teeth.
6.
Adjust the
pressure
plate
in or out
towards presser
foot, maintaining
it
par
allel
with the feed dog,
so
that
there
is sufficient
Fu
29
clearance between
the end
1.
of plate
and
presser foot
to permit
free
passage of the
thickest
part
of
the
top
ply
being
sewn.
(D,
Fig.
29)
for
this
adjustment.
Use
screws
7.
There
are
two spring
anchoring
holes in
collar
(E,
Fig.
29)
which may
be
used
for
increasing
or decreasing
spring
tension
on auxiliary
pressure
plate.
8.
A
chain
is
provided
for raising the
auxiliary
pressure
plate
in conjunction with
the presser
foot, Couple
this
chain
from the operating
lever
(F,
Fig. 28)to
the knee
press rod
that
is
part
of
the knee
press assembly
used to lift the
presser
foot.
The presser
foot
should
be raised before
the
pressure
plate and
the
chain
is
normally attached
to
the
pressure
plate
operating
lever
at
the side
hole.
Fig.
28
9
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

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From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC