UnionSpecial 39500FR User manual

FINE ST QUALITY
STY LE
39 50 0FR
CATALOG
No.
103FR
®
INDUSTRIAL
SEWING
LEWIS • COLUMBIA
MACHINES
CLASS 39500
HI-STYLED HIGH SPEED
TWO OR THREE THREAD
HEMMER OR SEAMER
DIFFERENTIAL FEED MACHINES
CHICAGO
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Catalo g No. 103 FR
(Supplement to Catalog No. 103 FA)
INSTRUCTIONS
FOR
ADJUSTING AND OPERATING
LIST OF PARTS
CLASS 39500
Style
39500 FR
First Edition
Copyright 1967
By
Union Special Machine Co.
Rights Reserved in All Countries
MACHINE COMPANY
INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINES
CHICAGO
Printed in U.S. A.
2
April, 1968
From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC

IDENTIFICATION OF MACHINES
Each Union Special machine is identified by a Style number on a name plate on
the machine. Style numbers are classified as standard and special. Standard Styl e
numbers have one or more letters suffixed, but never contain the letter "Z".
Example: "Style 39500 FR". Special Style numbers contain the letter "Z". When
only minor changes are made in a standard machine, a "Z" is suffixed to the stan-
dard Style number. Example: "Style 39500 FRZ".
Styles of machines similar in construction are grouped under a Class number,
which differs from the Style number in that it contains no letters. Example: "Class
39500 II •
APPLICATION OF CATALOG
This catalog is a supplement to Catalog No. 103 FA and should be used in con-
junction therewith. Only those parts used on Style 39500 FR, but not on Style 39500
FP are illustrated and listed at the back of this catalog. On the page opposite the
illustration will be found a listing of the parts, with their part numbers, description
and the number of pieces required. Numbers in the first column are reference
numbers only, and merely indicate the position of that part in the illustration. Re-
ference numbers should never be used in ordering parts. Always use the part num-
ber listed in the second column.
NOTE: The threading and adjusting instructions as described in this catalog pertain
to the two thread seaming, Type 503 stitch. The threading and adjusting instruc-
tions for the three thread seaming, Type 504 stitch, are covered in Catalog No. 103
FA, for Style 39500 FP. The only exception to the above instructions is the height
of the needle above the throat plate covered under "Setting The Needle".
This catalog applies specifically to the standard Style of machine as listed
herein. It can also be applied with discretion to some Special Styles of machines in
Class 39500. References to directions, such as right, left, front, back, etc., are
given from the operator's position while seated at the machine. Operating direction
of handwheel is away from operator.
STYLE OF MACHINE
Hi -Styled High Speed, Single Curved Blade Needle, One Looper-One Spread er Two
Thread and Two Looper Three Thread Overseaming Machine. Differential Feed,
Trimming Mechanism with Spring Pressed Lower Knife, Automatic Lubricating
System.
39500 FR Medium to heavy duty, four way combination machine, for general utility,
two or three thread hemming or seaming of all types and weights of flat, warp
and ribbed knit fabrics used on undergarments, outerwear, and similar opera-
tions on medium to heavy weight materials. Seam specifications 503 and 504-
SSa-1, 503 and 504-EFc-1. Standard seam width 1/8 inch. Stitch range 8-30
per inch. Cam adjusted main and differential feeds. Maximum recommended
speed 6500 R. P.M.
OILING
CAUTION! Oil was drained from machine when shipped, so reservoir must be
filled before beginning to operate. Oil capacity of Class 39500 is si~ ounces. A
straight mineral oil of a Saybolt viscosity of 200 to 250 seconds at 100 Fahrenheit
should be used.
3
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OILING (Continued)
Machine is filled with oil at spring cap in top cover. Oil level is checked at
sight gauge on front of machine. Red bulb on oil level indicator should show between
gauge lines when machine is stationary.
Machine is automatically lubricated. No oiling is necessary, other than keeping
main reservoir filled. Check oil daily before the morning start; add oil as required.
The oil drain plug screw is located at back of machine near bottom edge of
base. It is a magnetic screw designed to accumulate possible foreign materials
which may have entered the crank case. It should be removed and cleaned periodi-
cally.
NEEDLES
Each Union Special needle has both type and size number. The type number
denotes the kind of shank, point, length, groove, finish and other details. The size
number, stamped on the needle shank, denotes largest diameter of blade, measured
in thousandths of an inch, midway between shank and eye. Collectively, type and
size number represent the complete symbol which is given on the label of all nee-
dles packaged and sold by Union Special.
Class 39500 machines use a curved blade needle. The standard recommended
needle for Style 39500 FR is Type 154 GAS. Below is the description and sizes
available of the recommended needle.
Type No.
154 GAS
Description and Sizes
Round shank, round point, curved blade, standard length, single groove,
struck groove, spotted, chromium plated and is available in sizes 022,
025, 027, 029, 032, 036, 040, 044. 049, 054.
To have needle orders promptly and accurately filled, an empty package, a
sample needle, or the type and size number should be forwarded. Use description
on label. A complete order would read:
11
1000 Needles, Type 154 GAS, Size 027
11
•
Selection of proper needle size is determined by size of thread used. Thread
should pass freely through needle eye in order to produce a good stitch format i on.
Success in the operation of Union Special machines can be secured only by use
of needles packaged under our brand name, ~ , which is backed by a re-
putation for producing highest quality needles in materials and workmanship for
more than three-quarters of a century.
CHANGING NEEDLES
Release pressure on presser foot by turning presser foot release bushing (AG,
Fig. 1) and swing presser arm (U) out of position. Turn handwheel in operating di-
rection until needle is at its lowest point of travel. Using hexagonal socket wrench
No. 21388 AU, furnished with machine, loosen needle clamp nut about 1/4 turn.
Again turn handwheel until needle is at high position; withdraw needle.
To replace needle, leave needle holder at high position and, with the flat to the
left, insert needle in holder until it rests against stop pin. Keeping needle in this
position, turn handwheel until holder is again at its low point of travel; then ti g hten
nut. Return presser arm (U) to position andre-lock presser foot releas e bushing
(AG).
4
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li] Tension Nut
DTension Discs · - ~ - ---- 
(~Tension Post Slo~ · · --..
IITension Disc Felt ··..
~ Front Thr ead Guide
mLower Looper Thr ead Eyelet
m Fabric Guard Bracket
D Fram e Looper
Thr ea d Guide
m Pr e ss er Arm
Threading Diagram
For 504 Stitch
~~Thread Eyelet
5
Cone Support
Presser Foot
~~~Release Bushing
Top Cover
la~!l Needle Thread Eyelet
Upper Looper
P..Z..~ Thread Tube Assembly
m Lower Loop r
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mTension Nut
(I Tension Spring Fer~
II Tension Spring ~l~·~ilt~
[!] Tension Post
IIJ spring Shield _,... ;:-·
OTension
Discs · :~ · :~~ - _,-
(31 Tension Post Slot :
IITension Disc Felt · ..
fiJ Front Thread
~~ Lower Looper Thread Eyelet
(!~ Fabric Guard
ID Presser Ar
Fig. 1
6
Cone Support
0
Presser Foot
~aa.;:,. Release Bushing
Top Cover
.. ...,..,.Needle Thread Eyelet
Upper Looper
Thread Tube Assembly
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THREAD STAND
After thread comes from cone on cone support (A. Fig. 1) it is brought up
through the back thread eyelet and then down through the front thread eyelet (B).
The needle thread is then brought through the upper hole of tension thread guide (C)
from front to back and then through the lower hole. from back to front. The lower
looper thread is brought through the upper hole of tension thread guide (C) from
back to front. through the middle hole from front to back and then through the lower
hole from back to front. Both threads then continue between the tension discs (J).
through tension post slot (K) in tension post (G) and on through eyelets in front
thread guide (M).
THREADING
Only the parts involved in threading the two thread machines are shown in the
threading diagram (Fig. 1). Refer to threading diagram Fig. 1, page 6, in Catalog
No. 103 FA for the threading the three thread machines. Parts are placed in their
relative positions for clarity.
It will simplify the threading of these machines to follow the recommended se-
quence of threading the lower looper first and the needle second.
Before beginning to thread, swing cloth plate open. turn handwheel in opera-
ting direction until needle (X) is at high position, release pressure on presser foot
by turning presser foot release bushing (AG) and swing presser arm (U) out of
position.
Be sure the threads, as they come from the tension thread guide, are between
tension discs (J) and in tension post slots (K) in tension post (G).
TO THREAD LOWER LOOPER
Double end of thread and lead it through both eyes of lower looper thread eye-
let (R. Fig. 1) from right to left. NOTE: Thread must pass in front of looper thread
pull- off (AF). Lead thread behind fabric guard bracket (S) and through frame looper
thread guide (T). Turn handwheel in operating direction until heel of lower looper
(V) is all the way to the left; then thread through both eyes from left to right. Left
eye of lower looper can be threaded easily if tweezers are in left hand.
TO THREAD THE NEEDLE
Turn handwheel in operating direction until needle (X, Fig. 1) is at its hi g hest
position. Insert needle thread from right to left, through both eyes of n ee dle thread
eyelet (AD), under neck of top cover casting; and then down through hole in top
cover needle thread eyelet (AC). Thread needle from front.
THREAD TENSION
The amount of tension on needle and looper threads is regulated by two knurl ed
tension nuts (D, Fig. 1). Tension on threads should be only enough to secure proper
stitch formation.
7
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PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE
Sufficient presser foot pressure to feed work uniformly
should be maintained. Should it be necessary to increase or
decrease amount of pressure on presser foot, loosen lock
nut (A, Fig. 2) and turn adjusting screw (B). Adjusting
screw has a rig~t hand thread, so tightening increases pres-
sure, loosening decreases pressure. When pressure adjust-
ing screw (B) has been properly set, tighten lock nut (A).
With presser foot resting on throat plate, position locking
nut (C) so that its under surface is approximately 1/32 inch
to 1/16 inch from the top surface of adjusting screw (B).
Set cap (D) against locking nut (C).
FEED ECCENTRICS
Fig. 2
Feed eccentrics used in Style 39500 FR machines have been selected to produce
approximately 12 stitches per inch. It will be noted that the part number of the main
feed eccentric is No. 39540 B-14, while that of the differential feed eccentric is No.
39540 B-12. Minor numbers of the part symbol indicate approximately the number
of stitches obtainable when using that eccentric. Unless otherwise specified, rna-
chine will be shipped with above combination of eccentrics.
Generally speaking, differential (right hand) feed eccentric determines number
of stitches produced; main (left hand) feed eccentric is selected in relation to degree
and direction of stretch of material being sewn, or type of operation.
Following stitch number feed eccentrics are available under No. 39540 B-4, -5,
-6, -7, -a. -9. -1o. -11.-12,-13,-14,-15,-16, -1a,-2o, -22.-24,-26,-28,-30,-32,-34,
-36,-40. Only two eccentrics are supplied with each machine. Additional eccentrics
may be ordered separately. To order an eccentric, use No. 39540 B with a minor
number suffixed to indicate number of stitches desired. Example:
11
39540 B-14
11
•
Fig . 3
ASSEMBLING AND ADJUSTING SEWING PARTS
Before assembling and adjusting sewing parts,
remove cloth plate, fabric guard, chip guard, upper
knife assembly, lower knife holder assembly, hem-
min g guide assembly; then follow this suggested se-
quence.
SETTING THE NEEDLE
With throat plate assembled in position, needle
should center in the front end of needle slot. When
needle is at hi gh position, needle point should be set
17/32 inch above throat plate (Fig. 3). To align needle
or set the height above throat plate, move needle
driving arm (A, Fig. 3) by loosening clamp screw (B).
Remove throat plate, after needle has been set pro-
perly and clamp screw (B) has been tighten.
CAUTION! Needle height must NOT be changed
from the 17j 32 inch setting when adjusting for the
three thread stitch Type 504, as indicated in Catalog
No. 103 FA, for machine Style 39500 FP.
8
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SETTING THE NEEDLE (Continued)
At this point. insert lower looper (A, Fig. 4) into
bar (B). With lower looper at left end of its stroke.
set looper point 1/8 inch from center of needle (Fig. 4)
using looper gauge No. 21225-1/8. Do not have lower
looper deflecting needle. Tighten nut (C). Now assem-
ble differential (front) feed dog.
SETTING THE REAR NEEDLE GUARD
Set rear needle guard (A. Fig. 5) as high as
possible, without interfering with either lower looper
Fig. 4 or movement of lower knife holder; but still in posi-
tion to deflect needle forward . 002-. 004 inch. Screw
(B) is used to set rear needle guard. Make sure there is
no interference between rear needle guard and lower
looper.
SETTING THE LOWER LOOPER OR LOWER SPREADER
Now finish lower looper adjustment. As lower looper
moves to the right, its point should be set into the needle
scarf (A. Fig. 6) until the needle springs forward from
rear guard surface another . 002 - . 004 inch.
SETTING THE FRONT NEEDLE GUARD
Assemble front needle guard (C, Fig. 5). When low-
er looper is springing needle off back guard, set front
needle guard as close as possible to needle without
Fig. 6
touching. Screw (D) is used to adjust
and set front needle guard. After this
setting. make sure there is no inter-
ference between needle guard and
main feed dog.
SETTING THE UPPER SPREADER
Insert upper spreader (A. Fig. 7) in
its holder. Screw (B. Fig. 7) holds spread-
er in its holder. and permits spreader to
be pushed in or out. or turned around its
shank. Screw (C. Fig. 7) on collar holds
spreader holder in the shaft. and allows
holder to be rotated or adjusted laterally.
Preliminary Setting: When spreader is at the right end of its
Fig. 5
Fig. 7
stroke., spreader holder should be set to position spreader shank slightly back of
vertical (Fig. 7). Top end of spread er shank should extend 3/32 to 1/16 inch above
the holder (Fig. 7).
As spreader moves from right to left. the Vee notch of the spread er should
pass just behind the eye of the lower looper. with approximately. 002 inch clearance
between spreader and lower looper (Fig. 8).
9
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SETTING THE UPPER SPREADER (Continued)
Turn the handwheel until spreader
is at the left end of its travel. At this
position. the lower point of the spread-
er should extend about 5/3 2 inch to the
left of the centerline of the needle and
should be approximately 1/2 inch above
the top of the throat plate (Fig. 9). If
resetting is necessary. do it by moving
the spreader holder (A. Fig. 9).
Now check setting between spread-
er and needle. If needle rubs the back Fig. 9
of spreader, pull spreader out of its
Fig. 8
will reduce the
holder slightly and rotate spreader holder forward a short
distance. These same adjustments. in opposite movement,
clearance between spreader and needle. Reset to lower looper
{Fig. 8).
SETTING FEED DOGS
Now assemble main (back)
feed dog (B. Fig. 10) and
chaining feed (C). Set all feed
dogs (A. B. c. Fig. 10) so the
top surfaces of the teeth all lie
in the same plane. This can be
checked by sighting across the
teeth with a straight edge.
Now assemble throat plate.
Feed dogs should now be Fig. 10
leveled with throat plate sur-
face by rotating feed tilting adjusting pin (D). This pin
raises or lowers the back end of feed bar.
The feed dogs should be set level at the time the
teeth first appear above throat plate. Screw (E) locks
feed tilting adjusting pin in place. Now set the main
and differential feed dog teeth 3/64 inch above the
throat plate, and chaining feed dog teeth flush with
surface of throat plate.
SETTING THE LOWER KNIFE
Replace lower knife holder assembly. In replac-
ing the lower knife holder assembly. tighten screw
(A. Fig. 11) so that when the face of the flan ge on
sleeve (B) seats against the throat plate mounting brac-
ket (C) a free lateral motion of the lower knife and
holder assembly is obtained when the knife is manually
pressed at its upper corner. Lower knife (D) should be
set with the cutting edge flush with the throat plate
surface. Adjustments are made with hexagonal head
screw which holds lower knife. Lower knife is spring
pressed against upper knife. So no lateral adjustment
is necessary when width of trim is changed.
10
Fig. 11
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