Vermont Castings The Intrepid II 1990CE Mounting instructions
Homeowner’s
Installation and
Operating Manual
For use in Europe
30003840 7/10 Rev. 7
0966
Intrepid Cover
11/00
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
30003840
All of us at MHSC
Ask your Vermont Castings dealer how these instal-
lation accessories can enhance the versatility, ap-
pearance, and safety of your Intrepid Stove.
0307 Bottom Heat Shield
017 Rear Heat Shield
Chimney connector heat shields
Heavy-gauge enamel pipe to match the stove’s
color
Warming shelves
0098 Classic Black 1375 Suede Brown
136 Sand 1376 Biscuit
1365 Green 1377 Chestnut Brown
1371 Bordeaux 1378 Ebony
137 Midnight Blue 1379 Vt. Classic Gree
1373 Brown Majolica
0136 Spark screen for open-fireplace use
Short Legs
0868 Classic Black 155 Suede Brown
151 Sand 157 Biscuit
1510 Green 1530 Chestnut Brown
1515 Bordeaux 1535 Ebony
150 Midnight Blue 1537 Vt. Classic Green
358 Outside air kit
Specifications .................................... 3
Installation ......................................... 4
Clearances ........................................ 9
Assembly ......................................... 11
Operation ......................................... 1
Draft Management ........................... 18
Maintenance .................................... 0
Catalytic Combustor ........................
Replacement Parts .......................... 7
Warranty .......................................... 30
Congratulations on your choice of a Vermont Castings Intrepid II. With this purchase, you made a commitment to
make the hearth a place of warmth, beauty and comfort in your home. At MHSC, we share that joy and appreciation of
the hearth, and we show it in all our cast iron stoves and fireplaces.
As you become acquainted with your new stove, you will find the aesthetic appeal of cast iron is matched only by its
superb capacity to absorb and radiate heat.
Also, MHSC products are among the cleanest burning wood stoves and fireplaces available today. As an owner of
a MHSC stove, you are making a strong statement for pollution-free energy. But clean burning depends on both the
manufacturer and the operator. Please read this manual carefully to understand how to properly operate your stove.
At MHSC, we are equally committed to your satisfaction as a customer and that is why we maintain an exclusive
network of the finest dealers in the industry. Chosen for their expertise and dedication to customer service, our deal-
ers are factory-trained and know each MHSC product in detail. Feel free to contact your Authorized Vermont Castings
Dealer anytime you have a question about your stove or its performance.
We have built your Vermont Castings Intrepid II with the utmost care. With normal use and proper care, it will provide
you with many years of service.
This manual contains valuable instructions on the installation and operation of your Vermont Castings stove. You will
also find useful information on assembly and maintenance procedures. We urge you to read the manual thoroughly
and to keep it as a reference.
Sincerely,
3
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
30003840
545 mm
(2156O")
510 mm (20")
640 mm
(2556M")
Top exit
flue collar
height
540 mm (2156M")
610 mm
(24")
180 mm
(756")
545 mm (2156O")
C
L
540 mm (2156M")
460 mm (18")
31 mm
(156M")
520 mm
(2056O")
350 mm (136M")
3840
Intrepid EU
specifications
7/06
DRAWINGS NOT TO SCALE
Intrepid II 1990CE dimensions.
Nominal heat output ..............6. kW (1, 100 BTU/hr)1
Minimum flue draught ......................1 Pa (0.048” WG)
Mean flue gas temp ..............................337° C (639° F)
Efficiency (space heating) ...................................7.8%
Area heated ................... Up to 11 sq. m (100 sq. ft.)1
Fuel size/type .................................410 mm (16”) wood
Flue mass gas flow ............................................. 5.6 g/s
CO Emissions (@ 13% O)............................900 ppm
Loading ....................................................... Front or top
Chimney connector..................... 15 mm (6”) diameter
Chimney flue size .......................15 mm (6”) minimum
Flue exit position........................ Reversible, top or rear
Primary air ......Manual set, thermostatically maintained
Secondary air .........................................Self-regulating
Ash handling system ..................... Removable ash pan
Glass panels .........................High temperature ceramic
Weight ................................................ 101 kg (33 lbs.)
Width (leg-to-leg) .................................. 545 mm (1¹⁄₂”)
Depth (leg-to-leg).................................. 350 mm (13³⁄₄”)
Height to top of flue collar:
with regular legs .......................635 mm (5”) top exit
............................................... 610 mm (4”) rear exit
with optional short legs .............535 mm (1”) top exit
............................................ 500 mm (19³⁄₄”) rear exit
1. This value can vary depending on how the stove
is operated, the type and moisture content of the fuel
used, as well as the design, construction and climatic
location of your home. Figures shown are based on
nominal fuel consumption obtained under laboratory
conditions and on average efficiencies.
4
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
30003840
Before you begin an installation, review your plans to
see that:
• Your stove and chimney connector will be far
enough from combustible material to meet all
clearance requirements.
• The floor protector is large enough and is con-
structed properly to meet all requirements.
• You have all necessary permits from local author-
ities.
Your local building official is the final authority for ap-
proving your installation as safe and determining that it
meets local and state codes.
The metal label permanently attached to the back of
every Vermont Castings stove indicates the stove has
been tested to current standards. The test standard
is EN1340:001 + A:004 for Europe. Clearance
and installation information also is printed on the label.
When the stove is installed according to the information
both on the label and in this manual, local authorities
in most cases will accept the label as evidence that the
installation meets codes and can be approved.
However, codes vary in different countries. Before
starting the installation, review your plans with the local
building authority. You local dealer can provide any ad-
ditional information needed.
In some modern, super-insulated homes, there is not
enough air for combustion because of insufficient air
infiltration into the building. Such air enters a home
through unsealed cracks and openings. Kitchen or bath
exhaust fans can compete with the stove for available
air and compound the problem.
When poor draft is caused by a low infiltration rate,
opening a ground floor window on the windward side
of the house and in the vicinity of the stove will usually
alleviate the problem.
Another solution is to install a permanent outside air
supply to the stove and/or room. In some areas, in
fact, bringing air for combustion from outside the home
directly to the air inlet of the stove is required for new
construction.
An outside air supply is not affected by pressure varia-
tions within the house, and improved stove perfor-
mance often results. An Outside Air Adaptor Kit for the
Intrepid II is available from your local Vermont Castings
dealer.
Your Intrepid II must be connected to a code-approved
masonry chimney with a flue liner, to a relined masonry
chimney that meets local codes, or to a prefabricated
metal chimney. Whatever kind you use, the chimney
and chimney connector must be in good condition and
kept clean. Figure shows the two chimney types.
ST241
chimney types
12/13/99 djt
A prefabricated
double-wall insu-
lated chimney
A tile-lined ma-
sonry chimney
ST41
Standard chimney types.
If you use an existing masonry chimney, it must be
inspected to ensure safe condition before the stove is
installed. Your local professional chimney sweep, build-
ing inspector, or fire department official will be able to
inspect the chimney or provide a referral to someone
who can.
The flue and chimney design must meet requirement
J, Part J of the building regulations 000 (Combustion
Appliances and Fuel Storage Systems).
5
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
30003840
An inspection of the chimney must confirm that it has
a lining. Do not use an unlined chimney. The chimney
should have no cracks, loose mortar, other signs of
deterioration, or blockage. Repair any defects before
using the chimney with your stove.
Seal any unused openings in an existing masonry chim-
ney with masonry to the thickness of the chimney wall,
and repair the chimney liner. Openings sealed with pie
plates or wallpaper are a hazard; seal them with mortar
or refractory cement. In the event of a chimney fire,
flames and smoke may be forced out of these unused
thimbles.
The chimney should be thoroughly cleaned before use.
A newly-built masonry chimney must conform to the
standards of your local building code or, in the absence
of a local code, to a recognized national code. Masonry
chimneys must be lined, either with code-approved ma-
sonry or pre-cast refractory tiles, stainless steel pipe, or
a code-approved, “poured-in-place” liner. The chimney’s
clean-out door must seal tightly.
These should be an internal diameter of 150 mm (6”)
and be of the twin wall insulated construction that has
been approved for solid fuel use (e.g. Rite Vent ICS of
ICID Lite Chimney Systems). Diameters over 00 mm
(8”) are not recommended due to the large cross-sec-
tion causing excessive cooling of the flue gases.
An Intrepid II is approved for venting into a masonry
chimney with a maximum flue size of 00 x 00 mm (8”
x 8”), and into a round flue size of 150 mm (6”).
It may not be vented into larger chimneys without a liner
to reduce the effective flue size to 150 mm (6”) diam-
eter. Larger chimneys must have their flues relined for
proper stove performance.
Accessories to make the connection between stainless
steel chimney liners and your Intrepid II are available
through your local dealer.
Chimney connector is the double-wall or single-wall
pipe that connects the stove to the chimney. The chim-
ney is a masonry or prefabricated structure that enclos-
es the flue. Chimney connectors are used only to make
the connection from the stove to the chimney.
Connector pipes should meet the requirements of the
building regulations. This can be achieved by the use
connecting fluepipes included in the following catego-
ries:
a) Vitreous enamelled steel pipe complying with BS
6999: 1989 (1996);
b) Pipes made from stainless steel as descirbed in BS
EN 1008-1:1995 grades 1.4401, 1.4404, 1.443 or
1.4436 with flue wall thickness of at least 1 mm;
c) Mild steel fluepipes complying with BS 1449: Part 1:
1991, with a flue wall thickness of at least 3 mm;
d) Cast iron fluepipes complying with BS 41: 1973
(1998).
Flue Pipes with a spigot and socket joint should be
fitted with the socket facing upwards, to contain con-
densates and moisture within the flue. Joints should be
made gas tight using proprietary jointing accessories,
or, where appropriate, by packing joint with noncombus-
tible rope and fire cement.
Double-wall chimney connectors must be tested and
listed for use with solid-fuel burning appliances. Sin-
gle-wall chimney connectors should be made of 4
gauge or heavier steel, and should be 150 mm (6”) in
diameter. Do not use galvanized connector; it cannot
withstand the high temperatures that can be reached by
smoke and gases, and may release toxic fumes under
high heat.
If possible, do not pass the chimney connector through
a combustible wall or ceiling. If passage through a com-
bustible wall is unavoidable, refer to the section follow-
ing on Wall Pass-Throughs. Do not pass the chimney
connector through an attic, a closet, or any similar con-
cealed space. The whole connector should be exposed
and accessible for inspection and cleaning.
In horizontal runs of single-wall chimney connector
without protective shields, maintain a clearance of at
least 660 mm (6”) from the ceiling.
Keep the horizontal run of chimney connector as short
and direct as possible, with no more than two 90° turns.
Slope horizontal runs of connector upward 0 mm per
m (1/4” per foot) going from the stove toward the chim-
ney. The recommended maximum length of a horizontal
run is 914 mm (36”). The recommended total length of
chimney connector is .4 m (8’).
In cathedral ceiling installations, extend the prefabri-
cated chimney down to within .4 m (8’) of the stove.
6
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
30003840
Information on assembling and installing double-wall
connector is provided by the manufacturer of the
double-wall pipe. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions
exactly as you assemble the connector and attach it to
the stove and chimney. Using connectors and chim-
neys from the same manufacturer makes the assembly
and installation straightforward.
• Beginning at the flue collar of the stove, assemble
the chimney connector. Insert the first crimped end into
the stove’s flue collar, and
keep each crimped end
pointing toward the stove.
Using the holes in the
flue collar as guides, drill
3 mm (1/8”) holes in the
bottom of the first section
of chimney connector and
secure it to the flue collar
with three #10 x 1/” sheet
metal screws.
•
Secure each joint be-
tween sections of chimney
connector, including tel-
scoping joints, with at least
three sheet metal screws.
The pre-drilled holes in
the top of each section of
chimney connector serve as guides when you drill 3 mm
(1/8”) holes in the bottom of the next section.
• Secure the chimney connector to the chimney. In-
structions for various installations follow.
• Be sure the installed stove and chimney connector
are correct distances from nearby combustible material.
Special slip pipes and thimble sleeves that form
telescoping joints between sections of chimney con-
nector are available to simplify installations. They often
eliminate the need to cut individual connector sections.
Consult your local dealer about these special pieces.
For prefabricated chimneys, follow the installation
instructions of the chimney maker exactly as you install
the chimney. The maker of the chimney will supply the
accessories to support the chimney, either from the roof
of the house, at the ceiling of the room where the stove
is installed, or from an exterior wall.
Special adapters are available from your local dealer to
make the connection between the prefabricated chim-
ney and the chimney connector. The top of such adapt-
ers attaches directly to the chimney or to the chimney’s
ceiling support package, while the bottom of the adap-
tor is screwed to the chimney connector.
These adapters are designed so the top end will fit
outside the inner wall of the chimney, and the bottom
end will fit inside the first section of chimney connector.
When assembled in this way, any soot or creosote fall-
ing from the inner walls of the chimney will stay inside
the chimney connector.
For masonry chimneys, both freestanding and fireplace
chimneys may be used for installation of your Intrepid II.
If the chimney connector must pass through a combus-
tible wall to reach the chimney, follow the recommenda-
tions in the Wall Pass-through section that follows.
The opening through the chimney wall to the flue (the
“breach”) must be lined with either a ceramic or metal
cylinder, called the “thimble”, which is cemented firmly
in place. The fit must be snug and the joint between the
thimble and the chimney wall must be cemented. (Fig. 4)
ST492a
Intrepid II
freestanding
installation
11/00
I
N
T
R
E
P
I
D
I
I
Chimney
Elbow
Slip Pipe
Standard
Chimney
Connector
Flue Collar
Flue
Flue
Liner
Thimble
ST49a
Chimney connection in a freestanding installation.
ST242
Chimney connector
12/13/99 djt
The crimped end of
the connector points toward
stove.
7
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
30003840
A special piece called the “thimble sleeve,” slightly
smaller in diameter than standard connector and most
thimbles, will facilitate the removal of the chimney con-
nector system for inspection and cleaning. Thimble
sleeves should be available from your local dealer. (Fig.
5)
To install a thimble sleeve, slide it into the breach until
it is flush with the inner flue wall. Do not extend it into
the actual flue passage, as this could interfere with the
draft.
The thimble sleeve should protrude 5 - 50 mm (1-”)
into the room. Use furnace cement and thin gasketing
to seal the sleeve in place in the thimble. Secure the
chimney connector to the outer end of the sleeve with
sheet metal screws.
Without a thimble, a suitable length of chimney con-
nector can be extended through the breach to the inner
face of the flue liner, and cemented securely in place.
Additional pieces of connector are then attached with
sheet metal screws.
The Intrepid II may be connected to a chimney above a
fireplace opening also. In such installations, the stove is
positioned on the hearth in front of the fireplace and the
chimney connector rises from the stove top and then
angles ninety degrees back into the chimney. (Fig. 6)
The chimney liner should extend to the point at which
the chimney connector enters the chimney.
If the chimney connector from your installation enters
the chimney above a fireplace, follow all the guidelines
mentioned above for freestanding installations. In addi-
tion, give special consideration to the following points:
• Check the clearance between the stove and the
chimney connector, and any combustible trim or the
mantel. Use the necessary combination of mantel, trim,
and connector heat shields to achieve the required
clearances.
• Check the clearance between the chimney con-
nector and the ceiling. If no heat shields are used, the
clearance should be at least 660 mm (6”). To find out
how much this clearance may be reduced with heat
shields, see the clearance chart on Page 14.
• The fireplace damper must be sealed to prevent
room air from escaping up the flue. However, it must be
possible to re-open the damper to inspect or clean the
chimney.
If your fireplace height is at least 635 mm (5”), you
may install an Intrepid II with standard legs through
the fireplace opening using a “positive connection” kit
available from your local dealer. These positive connec-
tion kits ensure a tight fit between the stove flue collar
and the chimney flue. (Fig. 7) Fireplace installations,
whether connected to the flue above or through the fire-
place opening, have special clearance requirements to
adjacent trim and the mantel. You will find the required
clearances for the Intrepid II fireplace installations on
Page 9.
Floor protection requirements also apply to fireplace
installations. Floor protection information is on Page 8.
ST243
thinble connection
12/13/99 djt
Thimble Sleeve
Chimney
Connector
Flue
Keep
sleeve
end
flush
with flue
tile
ST43
The thimble, made of either ceramic or metal, must be
cemented securely in place.
ST244
Plymouth
fplc over mantel
12/99
Chimney Connector
Shields
* Check
These Clear-
ances
*
*
Mantel
Seal the
Damper
ST44
Chimney connector enters chimney above the fire-
place.
8
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
30003840
T
ST494
steel
wall pass thru
11/00
INT
I
P
D
RE
I
I
460 mm (18”) clearance all
around the pipe
Flush Mounted
Sheet Metal
Cover
ST494a
An approved wall pass-through.
ST245
fireplace
flex connector
12/99
Flexible Connector
Mantel Shield
Fireplace Adaptor Kit
ST45
Chimney connector enters chimney through the fire-
place opening.
Whenever possible, design your installation so the con-
nector does not pass through a combustible wall. If you
are considering a wall pass-through in your installation,
check with your building inspector before you begin.
Also, check with the chimney connector manufacturer
for any specific requirements.
Accessories are available for use as wall pass-
throughs. If using one of these, make sure it has been
tested and listed for use as a wall pass-through.
The following illustration shows one method of pass-
ing a connector througha wall. All combustible material
in the wall is cut away to provide the required 460 mm
(
18”) clearance for the connector. The resulting space
must remain empty. A flush-mounted sheet metal cover
may be used on one side only. If covers must be used
on both sides, each cover must be mounted on noncom-
bustible spacers at least 5 mm (1”) clear of the wall.
Your local dealer or your local building inspector can
provide details for other approved methods of passing
a chimney connector through a combustible wall in your
area.
This appliance must be installed on to hearth that
meets the requirements of Part J of the Building Regu-
lations 000 (Combustion Appliances and Fuel Storage
Systems). This can be achieved by ensuring that the
hearth is constructed and sized in accordance with the
guidelines included in section of approved document
‘J’. The size and clearances of the hearth are as fol-
lows:
The constructed hearth should be constructed in ac-
cordance with the recommendations in document J,
and should be of minimum width 840 mm and minimum
depth 840 mm (if a free standing hearth b) above) or
a minimum projection of 150 mm from the jamb (if a
recessed hearth a) above).
ST247
Rear exit floor dgrm
12/14/99 djt
Wood framing requires
protection from radiant heat ST47a
Supporting timbers under fireplace hearth are consid-
ered to be combustible.
9
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
30003840
Costructional Hearth
Dimensions as below
At least
300 mm
At least 150 mm
or to a suitable
heat resistant wall
At least
150 mm
Hearth Surface
Free of Com-
bustible Material
Perimeter should be
clearly marked e.g.
edge of superimposed
hearth
Perimeter should be
clearly marked e.g.
edge of superimposed
hearth
Appliance
Doors
Appliance
Doors
ST91
Noncombustible hearth surface dimensions.
Do not assume your fireplace hearth is completely
noncombustible.
Many fireplace hearths do not satisfy the “completely
noncombustible” requirement because the brick or
concrete in front of the fireplace opening is supported
by heavy wood framing as in Figure 9. Because heat
passes through brick or concrete readily, it can easily
pass through to the wood. As a result, such fireplace
hearths can be a fire hazard and are considered a com-
bustible floor.
Keep in mind that many raised hearths will extend
less than the required clearance from the front of the
heater when it is installed. In such cases, sufficient
floor protection as described above must be added in
front of the hearth to satisfy the minimum floor protector
requirement from the front of the stove: 406 mm (16”)
from the front. Fireplace hearths must also offer the
required protection of 15 mm (6”) on either side.
Optional 76 mm (3”) short legs may be used only on
such hearths that meet the width and depth require-
ments outlined previously under “floor protection.”
Hearth rugs do not satisfy the requirements for floor
protection.
Fireplace installations also have special clearance
requirements to the side walls, side decorative trim, and
fireplace mantle. Refer to the information on fireplace
and mantel trim shields in this section.
Both a stove and its chimney connector radiate heat in
all directions when operating, and dangerous overheat-
ing of nearby combustible materials can occur if they
are too close to the heat. A safe installation requires
that adequate clearance be maintained between the
hot stove and its connector and nearby combustibles.
Clearance is the distance between either your stove
(measured from the back edge of the stove’s top plate)
or chimney connector, and nearby walls, floors, the
ceiling, and any other fixed combustible surfaces. In
addition, furnishings and other combustible materials
must be kept away from the stove as well. In general, a
distance of 10 mm (48”) must be maintained between
the stove and moveable combustible items such as dry-
ing clothes, furniture, newspapers, firewood, etc. Keep-
ing those clearance areas empty assures that nearby
surfaces and objects will not overheat.
Clearances to timber framed (studded) walls are includ-
ed below. There are no specific minimum clearances
to solid surfaces (e.g. the sides and
rear of Inglenook fire openings constructed from solid
masonry) other than to allow safe access to the controls
of the stove. For this reason minimum side clearances
of 15 mm, and a minimum rear clearance of 50 mm
are recommended.
10
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
30003840
The minimum thickness of solid noncombus-
tible materials is specified in section of Document ‘J’,
in relation to the clearance of the appliance from the
surface. As a general rule, the thickness of solid non-
combustible material forming the recess of a fireplace is
a minimum of 00 mm.
ST486a
Defiant EU
Clearance
Diagrams
10/06
A
B
ST486a
Minimum clearances.
Single wall connecting fluepipes can reach extremely
high temperatures; therefore, clearances from the con-
necting fluepipe (chimney connector) must comply with
the requirements of Part J of Building Regulations 000
(Combustion Appliances and Fuel Storage Systems).
This can be achieved by following the recommenda-
tions of Approved Document ‘J’. These are as shown in
Figure 1.
34
FLUEPIPECLEARANCES
D
at least
3 x D
at least
3 x D
at least
1.5 x D
at least
1.5 x D
Air space of at least 1 mm
between noncombustible shield
and combustible material
Fluepipe
at least
1.5 x D
at least
1.5 x D
at least 3 x D Dat least
1.5 x D
ST911
Connecting fluepipe clearances.
11
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
30003840
At the factory the griddle is coated with vegetable oil to
prevent rusting while the stove is in transit and storage.
Remove the oil with a dry rag or paper towel before you
use the stove.
Remove any loose parts from inside the stove. Place a
protective pad on the floor, arrange some sections of 4
x 4 lumber on the pad for support, and carefully tip the
stove onto them, on its back.
Remove and discard the four large slot-head screws
from the stove bottom (Fig. 13) and install the stove
legs, using the hex head bolts from the parts bag. Use
3/8” washers with three of the legs; the door/damper
handle holder installs in place of a washer on the right
front leg. Position the holder so the hole to accept the
handle nub faces out from the right side of the stove.
Tighten the bolts firmly.
ST513
Remove leg bolts
11/00
Slotted
Screws
ST513
Remove the slotted screws from the stove bottom.
A bottom heat shield must be used unless the stove is
to be situated on a completely noncombustible hearth,
such as unpainted concrete over earth. To install the
bottom heat shield, loosen the leg bolts, and slip the
bottom heat shield C-clips onto the bolts. Attach the
bottom heat shield to the C-clips with the wing nuts, and
tighten the leg bolts. Align the shield as shown in Figure
14.
10³⁄₄"
9³⁄₄"
ST512
Attach
bottom heat
shield
11/00
ST51
Attach bottom heat shield.
Use the removable handle to open or close the front
doors, or to change the position of the damper. After
using it, remove it so it won’t get hot, and store it in the
handle holder installed behind the right front leg. (Fig.
15)
ST514
Bottom heat shield
& clips
11/00
Door Handle Holder
Bottom Heat Shield
Bracket
Wing Bolt ST514
Handle holder and heat shield positions.
You can reverse the flue collar by removing the two
screws that attach the collar to the back of the stove.
(Fig. 16) Be sure the gasket around the flue collar
opening is in position when you screw the collar back
on to the stove.
1
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
30003840
ST515
reverse
flue collar
11/17/00 djt
Flue Collar Screws
ST515
Reversing the flue collar.
Install the handle on the griddle. Place the griddle
upside down at the edge of a flat surface and assemble
the handle as shown. (Fig. 17)
With the handle pointing 45° from its final position,
tighten the nut as far as possible with pliers. Move the
handle to its final position while still holding the nut with
the pliers. Take care not to overtighten, as tab may
snap.
ST516
Attach
griddle handle
11/17/00 djt
ST516
Attaching the griddle handle.
The stove has two controls to regulate performance: a
supplies oxygen for the fire, and a
directs air flow within the stove to activate and
deactivate the catalytic combustor.
Additional air for catalytic combustion is regulated auto-
matically, and does not require operator control.
Symbols cast into the stove are reminders of the correct
directions for opening and closing the controls. In these
directions, ‘left’ and ‘right’ assume that you are facing
the front of the stove.
The , located at the right rear
corner of the stove, controls the amount of incoming air
for starting, maintaining, and reviving a fire. More air
entering the stove makes the fire burn hotter and faster,
while less air prolongs the burn at a lower heat level.
For the greatest air supply and maximum heat output
(but the shortest burn time), move the lever to the left.
For a fire that will last longer with less heat, move the
lever to the right. You can set the lever anywhere in
between the left and right extremes. (Fig. 19)
The Intrepid II features an automatic thermostat to en-
sure an even heat output at any setting you select. The
thermostat senses the heating and cooling of the stove
surface and adjusts the air shutter accordingly.
ST518
Intrepid II
controls
11/20/00 djt
Air Control Lever
Griddle
Handle
Damper Handle
Door Handle
Door Handle
Holder
(Behind Leg)
Ash Pan
Andiron
ST518
The Intrepid II controls.
ST517
Intrepid II
Thermostat
positions
11/17/00 djt
ST517
The thermostat handle may be positioned anywhere
between the two extremes for different heat levels.
13
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
30003840
The opens and closes the damper to
direct air flow within the stove, and is next to, and to the
right of, the primary air control lever on the right side of
the stove. (Fig. 0)
When the handle points to the floor, the damper is
open, letting smoke pass directly into the chimney. The
damper be open when starting or reviving a fire,
and whenever the griddle or doors are opened.
When the handle points to the front, the damper is
closed. Smoke from the fire travels through the catalytic
combustion system where it can burn further for greater
efficiency, before passing up the chimney.
The damper has no intermediate positions. Figure 8
shows the handle’s open and closed positions.
Your stove has andirons to keep logs away from the
glass panels. The andirons are important to maintain
clear fireviewing and should be removed only while
reloading through the front doors.
Wear heavy stove gloves when removing the andirons,
and place them on a noncombustible surface until you
replace them in the stove. Most stove owners will prefer
the convenience of top loading through the griddle, and
will leave the andirons in place permanently.
ST519
Intrepid II
damper
11/20/00 djt
(Updraft Mode)
(Catalytic Mode) ST519
The damper is either open or closed. There are no
intermediate positions.
ST520
Intrepid
andirons
11/20/00 djt
ST50
Remove the andirons for front loading.
The Intrepid II’s griddle lifts for convenient top-loading
of logs, and is the easiest way of regularly adding fuel.
However, the front doors open as well for adding an oc-
casional log to a fire. (Fig. )
You can open (or even remove) the front doors and
place the optional Intrepid II spark screen in the front
opening for open-fire viewing.
INTREPID II
ST521
Intrepid
loading
11/00
ST51
Top loading is the best way to add fuel during regular
use. Front loading is useful for kindling a fire.
The glass panels in the doors have a heat-reflective
coating on the outside surface. Heat reflected back to
the inside of the glass helps keep the inner surface at
a higher temperature than the outside. In combination
with pre-heated primary combustion air ‘washing’ over
the inside of the glass, this helps provide clear fire-
viewing at most operating levels.
14
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
30003840
To open the front doors, insert the handle into the door
latch stub and turn it to the left and up. To close them,
always close the left door first. Turn the handle in the
right door to the left and up (to the open position) and
close the door. Push on the door as you turn the handle
to the right and down. The doors will draw in slightly,
and the handle should offer some resistance as you
turn it to the closed position. (Fig. 3)
Avoid striking the glass or slamming the doors to re-
duce the risk of breaking the glass.
When you’re not using the door handle, store it in the
holder behind the right front leg of the stove.
ST522
Intrepid
close doors
11/00
Open
Position
Closed
Position
ST5
To open the front doors, turn handle clockwise.
The Intrepid II is designed to burn natural wood only; do
not burn fuels other than that for which it was designed.
You’ll enjoy the best results when burning wood that
has been adequately air-dried. Avoid burning “green”
wood that has not been properly seasoned. The wood
should be 410 mm (16”) in length.
The best hardwood fuels include oak, maple, beech,
ash, and hickory that has been split, stacked, and air-
dried outside under cover for at least one year.
For areas that do not have a supply of hardwood, com-
monly burned softwoods include tamarack, yellow pine,
white pine, Eastern red cedar, fir, and redwood. These
too should be properly dried.
Store firewood under cover to keep it dry. Dry, well-sea-
soned wood is best for heating and fire-viewing. How-
ever, avoid wood dried more than two years. This wood
burns very quickly, reducing burn time.
Even for short-term storage, keep wood a safe distance
from the heater and keep it out of the areas around the
heater used for refueling and ash removal.
An optional surface thermometer tells you when to
adjust the air control, when to refuel, and helps to tell
when your catalyst is operating properly.
For example, when the thermometer registers at least
30° C (450° F) after start-up you know the stove is
hot enough to begin catalytic combustion and it may be
time to close the damper.
Place the thermometer in the center of the griddle, as in
Figure 4, and use the following temperature ranges as
a guide to operation:
When thermometer readings drop below 175° C
(350° F) it’s time to adjust the air control for a higher
burn rate or to reload the stove.
• A temperature reading over 400° C (750° F) is a sign
to cut back on the air supply to slow the burn rate.
• Readings in the 150-00° C (300-400° F) range
indicate low to medium heat output.
• Readings of 60-340° C (500-650° F) indicate high
heat output. Operating your Intrepid II continuously
at griddle temperatures of 400° C (750°F) or higher
may damage inner parts or the enamel finish.
ST523
Intrepid
temp readings
11/00
ST53
Take temperature readings with a thermometer lo-
cated in the middle of the griddle.
15
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
30003840
No single air control setting will fit every situation. Set-
tings will differ depending on the quality of the fuel, the
amount of heat desired, and how long you wish the fire
to burn.
The control setting also depends on your particular
installation’s “draft,” or the force that moves air from the
stove up through the chimney. Draft is affected by such
things as the length, type, and location of the chimney,
local geography, nearby obstructions, and other factors.
Too much draft may cause excessive temperatures in
the Intrepid II, and could even damage the combustor.
On the other hand, too little draft can cause backpuffing
into the room and/or the “plugging” of the chimney or
combustor.
How do you know if your draft is excessively high or
low? Symptoms of too much draft include an uncontrol-
lable burn or a glowing-red stove part. A sign of inad-
equate draft is smoke leaking into the room through the
stove or chimney connector joints, low heat, and dirty
glass.
In some newer homes that are well-insulated and
weather-tight, poor draft may result from insufficient air
in the house. In such instances, an open window near
the stove on the windward side of the house will provide
the fresh air needed.
Another option for getting more combustion air to the
stove is to duct air directly from outdoors to the stove.
In fact, in some areas provisions for outside combustion
air are required in all new construction.
Your Intrepid II will accept a duct carrying outside air for
combustion.
When first using the stove, keep track of the air control
settings. You will quickly find that a specific setting will
give you a fixed amount of heat. It may take some time
to determine the amount of heat and the length of burn
you should expect from various settings. Please read
the Draft Management section beginning on Page 18
for more information on how installation features affect
draft.
Most installations do not require a large amount of com-
bustion air, especially if adequate draft is available.
Use the following air control settings as a starting point
to help determine the best settings for your installation.
Each is described as a fraction of the total distance the
lever may be moved from right to left.
Low From far right to 1/3 the
distance to left
Medium From 1/3 to /3
the distance to left
High From /3 the distance
to left to far left
Before you start using the stove, please read the Draft
Management section starting on Page 18 to see how
the features of your installation will affect the stove’s
performance. You and the stove are parts of a system,
and other parts of the system have a strong effect on
operation; you may need to vary your firing technique to
get the performance you want.
An Intrepid II leaves the factory with the combustor
installed.
In the United States, it is against the law to operate this
wood heater in a manner inconsistent with operating
instructions in this manual, or if the catalytic combustor
is deactivated or removed.
The catalytic combustion system in your Intrepid II
produces the best conditions for secondary combustion.
When the stove damper is closed, smoke goes through
the , burning at temperatures of
60-315° C (500-600° F), half the temperature normally
needed for unaided secondary combustion.
The catalytic element is a ceramic “honeycomb” coated
with a noble metal, usually platinum. The element is in
the , made of a spe-
cial material.
The chamber provides the correct environment neces-
sary for secondary combustion of the fuel (smoke).
Closing the damper may also reduce draft. Closing the
damper too soon may put out the fire or deactivate the
combustor. Close the damper only when the fire is well
established. When starting a fire, wait until there is an
ember bed of at least 76 - 10 mm (3-4”) before closing
the damper.
Never kindle a fire with colored paper or paper that
has colored ink or a glossy surface, and never burn
treated wood, garbage, solvents, or trash. All of these
may poison the catalyst and prevent it from operating
properly. Never burn cardboard or loose paper except
for kindling purposes. Never burn coal; doing so can
produce soot or large flakes of char or fly ash that can
16
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
30003840
coat the combustor and cause smoke to spill into the
room. Coal smoke also can poison the catalyst so that it
won’t operate properly.
In general, the fire must be sufficiently well-established
to ensure catalytic activity is initiated. When first starting
a fire, maintain a medium- to high- firing rate for at least
twenty minutes. This ensures the stove, catalyst, and
fuel are all stabilized at the proper operating tempera-
tures. This may be long enough to warm the chimney
well enough to support a good draft; some installations
may need more time. Please read the Draft Manage-
ment information starting on Page 3 to see if your
installation has features that may require more time to
warm up.
Even though it is possible for the fire to get quite hot
within a few minutes, the combustor may stop working
or the fire may go out if the fire is allowed to die down
immediately as a result of closing the damper. Once the
combustor starts working, heat generated by burning
the smoke will keep it working.
To determine whether the combustor is operating, ob-
serve the amount of smoke leaving the chimney when
the damper is activated and when it is not. This proce-
dure is described on Page 7.
Cast iron is extremely strong, but it can be broken with
a sharp blow from a hammer or from the thermal shock
of rapid and extreme temperature change.
The cast plates expand and contract with changes in
temperature. When you first begin using your Intrepid II,
minimize thermal stress by allowing the plates to adjust
gradually during three or four initial break-in fires follow-
ing below.
Burn solid wood fuel only in the Intrepid II, and burn it
directly on the grate. Do not elevate the fuel. Do not
burn coal or other fuels.
1. Open the stove damper, and open the primary air
control fully.
. Place several sheets of crumpled newspaper in the
stove. Do NOT use glossy advertisements or colored
paper, as they can poison the catalyst. Place on the
paper six or eight pieces of dry kindling split to a
finger-width size, and on the kindling lay two or three
larger sticks of split dry wood approximately 5 - 50
mm (1-”) in diameter. (Fig. 5)
ST263
starting a fire
12/99
ST63
Start the fire with newspaper and dry kindling.
3. Light the newspaper and close the door. Gradu-
ally build up the fire by adding a few 76 - 17 mm
(3-5”) diameter splits.
During the break-in fires, don’t let the stove get hot-
ter than 60° C (500° F) as measured on an optional
stove-top thermometer. Adjust the air control lever
as necessary to control the fire. Some odor from the
stove’s hot metal, the paint, and the cement is normal
for the first few fires.
Some chimneys need to be “primed,” or
warmed up, before they will draw sufficiently to start
a fire. To correct this situation, roll up a couple pieces
of newspaper, place them on top of the kindling and
toward the back of the stove, light them, and close the
doors. This should heat the chimney enough to initiate
a draft.
Once the draft is established, open the front door and
light the rest of the fuel from the bottom. Do not light the
main bed of fuel until the chimney begins drawing, and
repeat the procedure as often as necessary if the initial
attempt is unsuccessful.
4. If your Intrepid II has been broken-in previously
using Steps 1-3, continue to build the fire gradually.
Add larger wood with a diameter of 76 - 10 mm (3-
4”). (Fig. 6)
17
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
30003840
Continue adding split logs of this size to the briskly-
burning fire until there is a glowing ember bed at
least 76 mm (3”) deep. A good ember bed is neces-
sary for proper functioning of the catalytic system
and may take an hour or more to establish.
5. Close the damper when the griddle temperature
reaches 30° C (450° F).
6. Adjust the air control for your desired heat output.
Reload the Intrepid II while it is still hot and there are
plenty of glowing embers to re-kindle the fire. Include
some smaller pieces of wood in the new load of fuel to
help the stove rebuild its operating temperature quickly.
Wear stove gloves, and follow this procedure when you
reload your stove:
1. Open the thermostat lever.
. Open the damper.
3. Check the ash level in the ash pan; empty, if neces-
sary, and replace the pan.
4. Open the griddle.
5. Position the charcoal in the middle of the firebox
(Fig. 41)then load wood — smaller, split pieces first.
Increase the amount of fuel you load into the stove
as you become familiar with your stove and the
heating needs of your home.
If the remaining charcoal bed is relatively thick
and if your fuel is well seasoned, it is possible to add
fresh fuel (smaller pieces first), close the door and
damper, and reset the primary air thermostat for the
desired heat output.
Do not break the charcoal into very small pieces or
pound or compress the charcoal bed.
It is important that air can circulate under the wood for
the fire to be quickly revived.
ST264
good fire
12/99
ST64
Add larger pieces of wood as the fire begins to burn
well.
ST264a
add wood fire
11/00
ST64a
Add full size logs when the ember bed is 3” (75mm)
deep.
Overfiring may
cause a house fire, or can result in permanent damage
to the stove and to the catalytic combustor. If any part
of the Intrepid II glows, you are overfiring.
Remove ash before it reaches the top of the ash pan.
Check the level at least once a day, and before each
re-fueling. If the ash is close to the top edge of the pan,
empty it according to this procedure:
1. Open the damper.
. Open the front doors fully.
3. Using stove gloves, pull the ash pan out of the stove
by its handle.
4. Remove the ash pan and properly dispose of the
ashes. Be sure to keep the pan level during dispos-
al.
5. Return the ash pan to the stove.
Empty the ash pan regularly, typically every one to
three days. The frequency will vary depending on how
you operate your Intrepid II; if you burn more wood at
higher heat output settings, ash will accumulate rapidly.
Remove ash frequently and place it outdoors in a metal
container with a tight-fitting lid. Put the closed container
of ash on a noncombustible floor or on the ground,
well away from all combustible materials, pending final
disposal. If the ash is disposed of by burial in soil or
otherwise locally dispersed, keep it in the closed con-
tainer until all cinders have thoroughly cooled. You can
use wood ash as a garden fertilizer.
Never use your household or shop vacuum
cleaner to remove ash from the stove; always remove
and dispose of the ash properly.
18
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
30003840
A stove is part of a system, which includes the chimney,
the operator, the fuel, and the home. The other parts of
the system will affect how well the stove works. When
there is a good match between all the parts, the system
works well.
Wood stove operation depends on natural (unforced)
draft. Natural draft occurs when the smoke is hotter
(and therefore lighter) than the outdoor air at the top of
the chimney. The bigger the temperature difference, the
stronger the draft. As the smoke rises from the chimney
it provides suction or ‘draw’ that pulls air into the stove
for combustion. A slow, lazy fire with the stove’s air inlet
fully open indicates a weak draft. A brisk fire, supported
only by air entering the stove through the normal inlet,
indicates a good draft. The stove’s air inlet is passive;
it regulates how much air can enter the stove, but it
doesn’t move air into it.
Depending on the features of your installation - steel or
masonry chimney, inside or outside the house, matched
to the stove’s outlet or oversized - your system may
warm up quickly, or it may take a while to warm up and
operate well. With an ‘airtight’ stove, one which restricts
the amount of air getting into the firebox, the chimney
must keep the smoke warm all the way to the outdoors.
Some chimneys do this better than others. Here’s a list
of features and their effects.
Masonry is a traditional material for chimneys, but it
can perform poorly when it serves an ‘airtight’ stove.
Masonry is a very effective ‘heat sink’ - it absorbs a lot
of heat. It can cool the smoke enough to diminish draft.
The bigger the chimney, the longer it takes to warm up.
It’s often very difficult to warm up an outdoor masonry
chimney, especially an oversized one, and keep it warm
enough to maintain an adequate draft.
Most factory-made steel chimneys have a layer of in-
sulation around the inner flue. This insulation keeps the
smoke warm. The insulation is less dense than mason-
ry, so the inner steel liner warms up more quickly than a
masonry chimney. Steel doesn’t have the good looks of
masonry, but it performs much better.
Because the chimney must keep the smoke warm, it’s
best to locate it inside the house. This uses the house
as insulation for the flue and allows a little heat release
into the home. An indoor chimney won’t lose its heat to
the outdoors, so it takes less heat from the stove to get
it warm and keep it warm.
The inside size of a chimney for an ‘airtight’ stove
should match the size of the stove’s flue outlet. When a
chimney serves an airtight, more is not better; in fact, it
can be a disadvantage. Hot gases cool off through ex-
pansion; if we vent a stove with a 15 mm (6”) flue collar
{181 sq. cm (8 sq. in.) area} into a 54 x 54 mm (10”
x 10”) flue, the gases expand to over three times their
original size. This cools the gases, which weakens draft
strength. If an oversized flue is also outside the house,
the heat it absorbs gets transferred to the outdoor air
and the flue usually stays cool.
It’s common for a masonry flue, especially one built for
a fireplace, to be oversized for an airtight stove. It can
take quite a while to warm up such a flue, and the re-
sults can be disappointing. The best solution to an over-
sized flue is an insulated steel chimney liner, the same
diameter as the stove or insert’s flue outlet; the liner
keeps the smoke at its original volume, and the result is
a stronger draft. An uninsulated liner is a second choice
- the liner keeps the smoke restricted to its original size,
but the smoke still must warm up the air around the
liner. This makes the warm-up process take longer.
Every turn the smoke must take in its travel from the
stove to the chimney top will slow it down. The ideal
pipe and chimney layout is straight up from the stove,
to a completely straight chimney. If you’re starting
from scratch, use this layout if possible. If the stove-
pipe must elbow to enter a chimney, locate the thimble
about midway between the stove top and the ceiling.
This achieves several goals: it lets the smoke speed up
before it must turn, it leaves some pipe in the room for
heat transfer, and it gives you long-term flexibility for
installing a taller stove without relocating the thimble.
There should be no more than eight feet of single-wall
stove pipe between the stove and a chimney; longer
runs can cool the smoke enough to cause draft and
creosote problems. Use double-wall stove pipe for long
runs.
Each ‘airtight’ stove requires its own flue. If an airtight
stove is vented to a flue that also serves an open fire-
place, or a leakier stove, it’s easier for the chimney draft
to pull air in through those channels than it is to pull air
through the airtight, and performance suffers. Imagine
a vacuum cleaner with a hole in the hose to see the ef-
fect here. In some cases the other appliance can even
cause a negative draft through the airtight, and result in
a dangerous draft reversal.
19
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
30003840
Creosote is a by-product of slow wood-burning. It’s an
organic tar that can condense in the flue if it’s dense in
the smoke, and slow-moving, and cools off to less than
130° C (90° F). Condensed creosote is volatile, and
can generate chimney fires if it gets hot enough. All the
features that affect chimney draft also affect creosote
condensation - so use whatever combination of installa-
tion features and operational steps that will encourage
good draft and minimize creosote production.
Because letting the smoke cool off and slow down is
one of the keys to creosote production, it makes sense
to line a chimney to match the stove’s outlet size, for
safety reasons as well as performance. Consult a quali-
fied installer and check local and national codes for
recommended chimney size.
Even the best stove installation will not perform well
with poor fuel. The best fuel is hardwood that has air-
dried 1-18 months. Softwood burns, but not as long as
hardwood. Fairly ‘green’ wood has a good amount of
moisture in it; it will burn, but some of the heat potential
is used to drive the remaining moisture off the wood.
This reduces the amount that reaches your home and
can contribute to a creosote problem. There are mois-
ture meters available for firewood; you can also judge
your wood by its appearance and weight. If you get it
green, lift a piece and get a sense of its weight; it can
lose a third or more of its weight as it dries. Also look at
the ends of a log; as it dries it shrinks and often cracks.
The more weathered and cracked a piece is, the drier
it is.
Dry wood burns readily with a good chimney draft. But
with modern stoves, especially catalytic ones, the wood
can be too dry. While extra-dry wood has little creosote
in it, the remainder can ‘gas out’ from the wood quickly
and densely enough to overload the catalytic burner.
If you hear a rumbling or roaring noise, like a propane
torch, from the stove, that is a sign that the catalyst is
seriously overfiring. The catalyst is a platinum film on a
ceramic base; the metal can get to higher temperatures
than the ceramic can take, and overfiring the catalyst
can break it. Dry wood can also burn out faster than
you want. If your dry wood burns out too quickly or
overloads the catalyst you can mix in greener wood to
slow the fire down.
Back-puffing results when the fire produces volatile
gases faster than the chimney draft pulls them out of
the firebox. The gases back up in the firebox till they’re
dense enough and hot enough to ignite. If your stove
back-puffs, you should open up the damper to let the
smoke rise to the flue more quickly, let more air into
the firebox, and avoid big loads of firewood. Run your
stove with enough primary air so that you always see
lively, dancing flames in the firebox; a lazy, smoky fire is
inefficient and can contribute to creosote buildup in the
chimney.
An easy way to test your chimney draft is to close the
stove’s damper, wait a few minutes to let the airflow
stabilize, then see whether you can vary the strength of
the fire by swinging the air control open and closed. Re-
sults are not always instant; you may need to wait a few
minutes for a change in the air control setting to have
an effect on the fire. If there’s no change, then the draft
isn’t strong enough yet to let you close the damper, and
you’ll need to open it for a while longer and manage the
fire with the air inlet until the draft strengthens. If you
keep track of your burning habits and relate them to
their effects on the stove’s operation, you’ll be rewarded
with good performance and a safe system.
Good draft also depends on a supply of air to the stove;
a chimney can’t pull in more air than is available to it.
Sluggish draft results when a house is tight enough to
prevent the ready flow of air to the stove, or by competi-
tion between the stove and other equipment that sends
indoor air outside - especially power-driven equipment
like range hoods, clothes dryers, etc. If the chimney
draws well with all other equipment turned off (or
sealed, in the case of fireplaces and/or other stoves),
then you simply need to be careful with timing the use
of the other equipment. If you need to crack a nearby
window or door to enable the chimney to draw well,
that’s a sign that you should install an outside-air intake
to bring combustion air directly to the stove. Vermont
Castings dealers carry adapters to attach to the stove
to connect an air duct for outdoor combustion air.
In many cases, local or national codes require the
installation of permanently open air vents, particularly
with larger appliances (i.e. above 5 kW). Refer to these
codes to determine specific requirements for your
installation.
Wood-burning is an art rather than a science. Once the
stove and chimney system are in place, the stove user
can only vary technique, mostly your timing, to achieve
good results. If you keep track of your burning habits
and relate them to their effects on the stove’s operation,
you’ll be rewarded with good performance and a safe
system.
0
Intrepid II Woodburning Stove
30003840
Let the fire in the stove go out and allow the stove to
cool completely before beginning any maintenance
procedure.
An occasional dusting with a dry rag will keep the
painted cast iron of your Intrepid looking new.
The stove’s paint can be touched up as needed. First,
clean the areas to be painted with a wire brush. Then,
touch up the stove with high temperature stove paint.
Apply the paint sparingly, and keep in mind that two
light coats of paint are better than a single heavy one.
Use a dry or slightly damp rag or a soft brush to remove
spills or stains. For difficult jobs that require a cleaning
agent, use only a kitchen appliance cleaner or polish
recommended for use on enamel surfaces.
Most of the carbon deposits on the glass will burn off
during hot fires. However, the ash residue that accumu-
lates on the glass surface should be removed regularly
to prevent etching. Follow this procedure to clean the
glass:
• Be sure the glass is completely cool.
• Clean the glass with water or a cleaner made
especially for this purpose. Do not use abrasive
cleaners.
• Rinse the glass thoroughly.
• Dry the glass completely.
Replace glass only with Part no. 140-1156 right side
and 140-1157 left side glass panels. The glass panel
rests on a cushion provided by a rope gasket part no
103556, and is held in place by clips. (Fig. 8) The
glass is IR coated on one side which is marked “THIS
SIDE OUT”.
1. Remove the door from the stove and place it on a
sturdy, level work surface. Use a towel to protect
the porcelain enamel finish.
. Remove the retainer clips. (Two phillips head
screws on each clip.)
3. Inspect the gasket. If the window gasket is in good
condition, you can leave it in place. If you replace
it, use only Part No. 103556. Be sure the channel
around the window opening is clean, and free of
dust.
4. Install the glass. Lay the glass on the inner gasket
with the coated side down (toward the outside of
the door). Tighten the screws snugly, but loose
enough to allow for a little movement of the glass
when the stove is in operation. Overtightening can
crack the glass immediately or cause it to crack if it
is unable to expand when hot.
KT160
Intrepid
glass replacement
addendum
11/00
Rope
Gasket KT160
Door glass installation.
The primary air shutter is visible from the back of the
stove. The shutter must open and close freely when
you move the thermostat lever. If it does not, check for
any obstruction, or for a bound or stretched chain need-
ing adjustment. (Fig. 9)
On a cold stove the shutter should be open no more
than 1/8” (3mm) when the primary air control lever is
pushed completely to the left (closed), as seen from the
back of the stove. When the lever is pushed completely
to the right (open), the shutter should be open to an
angle of approximately 70° from the stove back.
The ball chain should measure 16 mm (8¹⁄₂”) from
connection to the thermostat coil to connection on the
primary air flap.
If setting is incorrect, the thermostat coil may be bent or
broken. Call your Vermont Castings Dealer for assis-
tance.
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