White CLASSMATE 1570 User manual

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TO
OUR
VALUED CUSTOMER...
You
are
now
the owner
of a
new
zig
zag
sewing
machine, the most
versatile
type
of
its
kind you
can
possess,
Buttonholes,
monogramming,
overcasting
and
creative
embroidery
are
done
with
ease
and speed.
To
aid
you
in
obtaining
the greatest
performance
from
your
new
sewing
machine,
this
book
on
its
care
and
use has
been
written
for
you.
Read
the
instructions
carefully,
as
a
thorough understanding
of
your
machine
will
reward
you
with many
hours
of
trouble4ree
creative
sewing.
This
manual
is
divided
into
seven
separate
sections. Each
section
deals
with
one
special
portion
of
your
sewing
machine.
For
example:
1.
“GETTING
READY TO
SEW”
explains the
basic
functions’of
your
machine; how
to
thread
your
machine,
wind
bobbins,
etc.
2.
“STRAiGHT
AND
ZIG
ZAG”
explains
the
uses
of
straight
sewing,
zig
zag stitches
and use
of
the built
in
utility
stitches.
3.
“TWIN
NEEDLE SEWING”
explains how
to
use
a
twin
needle
and
the
application
of
twin
needle
sewing.
4.
“BUTTONHOLES”
explains
four
different
styles
of
buttonholes.
5.
“STRETCH
UTILITY
STITCHES” explains
the
use
of
elastic
triple
stretch stitches.
6.
“FEATURES
AND
PARTS” explains many parts
and
features
of
your
machine.
7.
“CARE
OF
YOUR
MACHINE”
explains
maintenance,
oiling,
minor
problems
and
solutions,
alphabetical
index.
Also
included
in
the
front
portion
of
this manual
is a
table
of
contents
and glossary
of
terms to
further
aid
you
to
enjoy
your
sewing
machine.
SEWING
MACHINE
Record
in
space
provided
below
the
Serial
No.
and
Model
No.
of
this
appliance.
The
Serial
No.
is
located
Rear
of arm.
The
Model
No.
is
located
Rear
of
am,
Serial
No.
_______________________
Model
No.
Retain these
numbers
for
future
reference.

CONTENTS
Introduction/Contents
Cover
page
Glossary
of
sewing
machine
1.6
GETTING
READY
TO
SEW
Using
the
foot
control
7
To Connect
the
foot
control
wires
7
To use
the toot
pedal
7
Converting
to
tree-arm
sewing
8
Winding
the bobbin
9
Threading of
top thread
10
Twin
needle
upper
threading
11
Lower
threading
12
Inserting
bobbin
12
Picking-up lower
bobbin thread
13
CONTROLS
Top
tension
control
14
Checking
tensions
15
Reverse
stitch
control
16
OTHER ADJUSTMENTS
OF
MACHINE
IN
SEWING
Presser
foot
pressure
regulator
17
Darning
plate
17
Changing
the
needle
18
Fabric,
thread
and
needle
chart
19
Free-Arm
sewing
20
Pattern
setting
21
Presser
feet
22
Changing
toot
22
Starting
to
sew
23
STRAIGHT
AND
ZIGZAG
APPLICATIONS
OF
THE
STRAIGHT
STITCH
Seams
24
Basting/topstitching
24
Darning
24
Elastic
thread shining
25
Holding
the
fabric
25
Turning corners
25
Curved
seams 25
Ending
seam/removal
of
fabric
26
APPLICATIONS
OF THE
ZIGZAG STITCH
Overcasting
26
Seeming
knits
26
Sewing on
buttons
27
Forming
thread
shank
on
button
28
Satin
stitching
28
Tapering/creative
embroidery
28
Manual
embroidery
designs 28
Free hand
monogrammirig
29
Applique
29
Gathering
over
cord
30
APPLICATIONS
OF
THE
MULTIPLE STITCH ZIGZAG
Overcasting 30
Patching
30
Mending
a
tear
or
instant
darning
31
Lace
applications
31
Flutter
hem 32
Elastic
application
32
Understitching
facings
33
Decorative
effects
33
APPLICATIONS
OF
THE
BLIND
HEM
STITCH
Blind
hemming
34
Shell
tuck
35
Decorative
effects
35
Topstitching elfects
35
Shell
tuck
36
APPLICATIONS
OF
THE
INTERLOCK
Lingerie
seam
36
Inserting
lace
36
TWIN
NEEDLE
SEWING
Twin
needle
upper
threading
37
Twin needle
sewing
effects
37
Decorative
tucks
or
designs 38
Pin
Tucks 38
BUTTONHOLES
Buttonholes
39
Preparation
39
Built-in
buttonholer
40
Turn-around
buttonholes
41
Corded
buttonholes
42
Stretch
buttonholes
43
STRETCH UTILITY
STITCHES
APPLICATIONS
OF THE
STRAIGHT
TRIPLE STRETCH
STITCHES
Seams
44
Topstitching (stretch
stitches)
44
APPLICATION
OF
THE RICK-RACK
TopstitchinglRick-rack
45
Tapering/Rick-rack 45
APPLICATION
STRETCH OVERLOCK
46
APPLICATIONS
SMOCKING
STITCH
Seaming
smocking
stitch
46
Elastic
thread
shirning
46
APPLICATIONS
DOUBLE
OVERLOCK
STITCH
Seaming
double
overlock
stitch
47
Hemstitching
effect
47
Topstitching
double
overlock
48
APPLICATIONS
ULTRA
STRETCH
Seaming
ultra
stretch
49
FEATURES-f-PARTS+ACCESSORIES
Accessories
so
KNOWING
YOUR SEWING MACHINE
Front
view
51
Back view
52
The
all
purpose
foot
53
The
button
sewing
foot
53
The
buttonhole
foot
53
Changing
foot
53
Buttonhole
foot
54
Button
sewing
foot
55
Cloth
guide
56
Zipper
sewing
foot
57
lnisertcording
57
The
Ouilting
guide
58
Buttonhole
cutter
58
Straight
stitch
foot
58
CARE OF
YOUR MACHINE
Maintenance
59-60
Take
out
tangled
thread
in
bobbin
case
61
Trouble chart
62

GLOSSARY
OF
SEWING
MACHINE TERMS
ACCESSORY
BOX
For
storage
of
extra
feet,
needles,
bobbins
and
accessories.
BOBBIN CASE
Holds
thread
in
bobbin
case and
balances
TENSION
SPRING
upper
and
lower
tension
threads.
BOBBIN
TENSION
SCREW
To
adlust
the tension
of
bobbn
thread
BOBBIN
WINDING
For
winding
bobbin
with thread.
SPINDLE
BOBBIN
WINDING
STOP
For
automatically
stopping
bobbin
at
full
capacity
CABINET
Used
to
mount
sewing
machine
in
furniture;
also
a
storage
area
to’
machine.
FACE
COVER Snaps
open
for
changing
the
bulb
Also
provides
easy access
to
needle and
presser
bar assembly
for
oiling.
FEED
DOG
For
feeding
material
through
machine
FOOT
CONTROL
For
activating power
to
the
machine,
amount
of
pressure
exerted
on
the
foot pedal
controls
the speed;
attached
wires
plug
into
machine
and
wall
socket.
HANDWHEEL
For
turning
mechanism
by
hand
to
bring
needle
and
take
up
to
hgh
position.
This
wheel
turns toward
operator.
LIGHT
SWITCH On
face
cover, back
portion;
turn
on
or
off
NEEDLES
Used
to
form
a
lock stitch
on
your
machine,
variations
are
many;
example:
sharp,
ball, leather,
etc
NEEDLE
CLAMP
For
attaching
the
needle
to
the
lower end
of
the
needle
bar,
NEEDLE
CLAMP
THUMB SCREW
For
fastening
needle
into needle clamp,
NEEDLE PLATE
For
supporting
material when
sewing. This
plate
is
marked
for
several
hem
sizes

PORTABLE
CASE
PRESSER
BAR
PRESSER
FOOT
PRESSER
FOOT
LIFTER
PRESSER
FOOT
THUMB
SCREW
RACE
REVERSE
STITCH
BUTTON
A
receptacle
to
store
a
sewn 9
machine when
not
in use.
Controls the
pressure
exerted
on
various
materials
being
sewn.
When
lowered
onto
material
it
holds
the
material
against
the
feed dog.
For raising
the
lowering
the
presser
bar
and
presser
foot.
When
raised,
the
tension
is
released and
when lowered,
the tension
is
engaged
For
fastening
presser
foot
and
attachments
to
the
presser bar.
Groove
in
which
shuttle
turns.
For
changing
from
forward
to
reverse
directiun,
button
must
be
held
down
fur
continuous
reverse
sewing.
SHUTTLE For
forming
lock
stitch.
Access
to
bobbin
case
and
bobbin.
Located under
the
face
cover
to
change
the
light
bulb.
One for
sewing
one
for
winding
bohbin,
or
both
for sewing
with two
threads
and twin
needle.
For
changing
the
length
of
stitch
in
either
forward
and
reverse
direction
For disengaging
the
handwheel
from
mechanism when
winding the
bobbin
without
the needle
moving
up
and
down.
For
drawing
up
the
top thread
to
form a
tight
stitch.
For
cutting
excess
thread,
located
on
the
back
and
into
the
presser
bar
Holds
thread taut
for even
winding.
Guides
thread
from
spool
pins
to
the
tension.
Two
needles with
one
thank
making
it
possible to
sew
with
two
top
threads.
Use
separately
for
single
or
two
thread
sewing.
Used
to change
upper
tension numbered
from
“0”
to “9”.
SLIDE
PLATE
SOCKET
SPOOL PINS
IRETRACTABLEi
STITCH LENGTH
DIAL
STOP MOTION
KNOB
TAKE
UP
LEVER
THREAD
CUTTER
THREAD
GUIDE FOR
BOBBIN
WINDING
THREAD
GUIDE FOR
UPPER
THREADING
TWIN
NEEDLES
UPPER
THREAD
TENSION
UPPER
THREAD
TENSION
DIAL
ZIGZAG
WIDTH
CONTROL
For
setting
width
of
zigzag
stitching.
—2—

GLOSSARY
OF
SEWING
TERMS
APPLIQUE
Applying
a
material
with
a
specific
design
onto
another
material
by
using a
straight
or
zigzag
stitch.
BASTING
To sew
with
a
temporary
stitch
that
can
be
removed
with
ease.
This
is
possible
by
using
the
longest
straight
stitch,
setting
your
top
tension
on “0”
and
sewing
a
line
of stitches.
The
top
stitch
will
be
loose
and
the
bottom
stitch tight;
this
allows
you
to
be
able
to
remove
the
lower
thread
by
pulling,
It
may
be
necessary to
cut
the
lower
thread
at
different
points
for easier removal.
BLIND
HEM
A
variation
of the
zigzag
stitch
used
to
finish
a
hem
where you
can
control
the
holding
stitch.
BUTTONHOLE
A
means
of
strengthening
the
sides
of
a
hole
in
cloth
by
a
zigzag
stitch to
hold
a
button.
COUCHING
To
fasten down
another
material,
like
a
ribbon,
ace,
with
a
fine
zigzag
stitch.
DARNING
A
method
of
repairing
a
rip
or
sear by
stitching
over
the
flaw.
EMBROIDERY To
decorate
with
stitching,
using
either
a
straight
or
zigzag
stitch.
FACING
The
addition
of
another
piece
of
material
to
increase
the
body
or edge
of
material.
GATHERING
Forming
a
zigzag
stitch
over
cord, elattic,
or any
separate material.
Another
term
for
shirring.
HEM
A
fold,
sewn
down
an edge
of
cloth.
MONOGRAMMING
Using
a
straight stitch
for
tracery
or zigzag
stitching to
form
a
design.
OVERCASTING
The
use of
a
zigzag
stitch
to
finish
a
seam
or
edge
of
cloth,
or
to
prevent the
ravelling
of
a
loose
weave
cloth.
OVER
LOCK
STRETCH)
A
triple
stretch
pattern
used
to
finish
seams
or
stretch
buttonholes.
PATCHING Same
as
darning but
covering
the
hole
with
a
piece
of
cloth.
PICOT
STITCH
A
triple stretch
pattern
used similar
to
a
tricot
stretch
giving a
hand
stitch effect.
QUI
LTING
Joining
several
cloths
together
to
form
a
bulk cover for beds,
furniture
or
clothing.
RICK
RACK
A
triple
stretch
pattern
using
a
basic
zigzag
to
give
a
RICK
RACK
effect.
—3--

SATIN STITCH
A
solid
tine
of
zig zag
stitching formed
by
a
zigzag
stitch
sewn
very close
together.
SEAM
A
line
formed
when
sewing
two
pieces
of
material
together.
SHELL
TUCK
The
use
of
the
zigzag
or
variation
of
the
zigzag
stitch
to
give
a
shell
effect
to
the
edge
of
material.
SHIRRING To
gather cloth
by drawing
two
or more
threads together.
STRAIGHT
STITCH
A
forward
or
reverse
single
line
of sewing
which
may vary
from
6
to
8 stitches
per
inch
to
“0”
stitches.
STRETCH BUTTONHOLE
A buttonhole
made
with
a
stretch
stitch
pattern
to
be
used
on
double knits,
sweaters,
etc.
STRETCH
STITCH
A
combination
of
stitches formed
by
a
forward and backward
motion
which
allows
the
stitches to
flex
and
not
break,
used
on
stretch
materials, double
knits,
tricot,
lingerie,
etc.
TAPERING
A
line
of
zigzag
sewing
varying
from
a
narrow
to
a wide
range.
THREAD SHANK
A
space
composed
of thrçad between
the
button
and
cloth
to
engage
button
to
buttonhole
on
bulky material.
TOPSTITCHING
A
line
or
series
of lines
of
straight
or
zigzag
sewing
which
enhances
a
border
gwlng
the
stitching
a
raised
effect.
TRICOT
STITCH
A
triple
stretch
pattern
used
to
finish
delicate
fabrics
or
lace.
TRIPLE STRETCH
A
term
used
for
stretch
patterns,
a
pattern
formed
by
a
forward,
sideward
and
backward
combination
of
stitches.
ULTRA
STRETCH
A
triple stretch
pattern
which is
excellent
to
make
seams
in bulk
materials
like
sweater and
swimwear,
UNDERSTITCHING
Using
a
variation
of the
zig
zag
stitch to
finish
a hem or seam
that
is hidden.
VARIEGATED THREAD
A single
strand
of
thread
with
varying
colors,
used
for
a decorative effect.
ZIGZAG
A
term
which
describes
the
side
to
side
motion
of
the
needle which
creates
width
to straight
sewing.
—.4—

THIS
INSTRUCTION
MANUAL
IS
DESIGNED
TO
GIVE
BASIC
INFORMATION,
TO
UNDERSTAND
THE
FUNCTIONS
OF
A
SEWING
MACHINE,
THREAD,
AND
NEEDLES.
For
sewing
a
normal
seam,
the
material
must
be
fed
regularly
for
the
formation
of
each
stitch.
The
feed
dog
does
the
conveying,
together
with the
presser
bar
on
which
a
presser
foot
has
been
fastened.
Feed
Dog
The task
of
the feed
dog
is
to
move
the
cloth
on for
a
certain distance
after
each
stitch.
This
distance,
called
stitch
length,
can
be
accurately
adjusted
by
means
of
a
lever
or a
knob,
which
acts
on
the
feed
mechanism.
The
feed
dog
is
equipped
with
small,
sharp
teeth.
Fig.
1
shows the
most common
types
of feed
dogs.
Fig.
2
A.
A
thread
is
left-twist
if,
when
held
horizontally,
the
individual
strands
slant
to
the
left
from
bottom
to
top.
B.
A
thread
is
right-twist
if,
when
held
horizontally,
the
individual
strands
slant
to
the
right
from
bottom
to
top.
F
Fig.
1
A.
The
“L”
shaped
feed
dog
is
the oldest type
and
common
to
sewing
machines
with vibrating
shuttles.
It has
the
disadvantage
that
it
does
not
feed
all
kinds
of
work,
such
as
f
ii.
collar
points,
evenly.
B.
The
“H”
shaped
feed
dog,
with
a
row
of
teeth
on
either
side
of
the
needle
plate
hole,
is
an
improve
ment
on
the
former,
but
does
not
feed
narrow
strips
or
hems
well.
C.
The “M”
and
“0”
shaped
feed dogs
guarantee the
uniform
feed
of
any kind
of
work
or
material.
Twist
of the
Thread
Depending
on
the
kind
of
shuttle
used,
the
twist
of
the
thread
is
of
a
certain
importance.
If
thread
with
a
right-hand
twist
is used,
it
will
unravel
slightly, when
the
stitch
is
formed,
due
to
the
direction
of
rotation
of
the
shuttle.
This
naturally
reduces
the
tensile
strength
of
the
thread.
For sewing,
the
question,
whether
left-
or
right-
hand
twist
is
used,
is
of
lesser
importance.
t
is
strongly
recommended,
however,
to
use
left-twist
thread
for
darning
with
fine
thread.
The
difference
between
the
two
kinds
of twist
is
best
determined
in
the
following
manner:
tion.
1.
The
Needle:
Aim:
To
become
acquainted
with
the
structure
of
the
sewing
machine
needle
in
detail,
so
as
later
on
to
be able
to
understand
better
how
the
stitch
is
formed. Different
systems
and
sizes.
As
has already
been
mentioned,
needles
have
existed
since
the
most
ancient
times.
They
were made
of thorns,
horn,
fish-bones,
gold
and
ivory.
The
first
steel rteedles
were
made
in
Germany.
The
needle
with
the
eye
near
the
point
became more
widely
used
with
the introduction
of
the
Iockstitch
sewing
machine. At
first,
each
manufacturer
used
a
needle
which
could
only
be used
on
his
own
models.
The
differ
ent kinds
of needles
have
since
been
standardized
by
an
International
Agreement,
Needle
Systems
There exist
approximately
2000
rliffer
ent
types
of needles,
amongst
which
system
705
(U.S.A.:
style
15
x
1)
is
the
most
frequently
used
for household
sewing
machines.
This
needle
is
also
used
for the
ELNA!
WHITE
and
is
described
below
in
detail:
S
A
D
A)
eye
C)
body
E)
short
groove
B)
point 0)
shaft
F)
long
groove
G)
flat
A
B
A.
Parts
Necessary
for
Forming
a
Stitch
-—
Stitch
Forma
C
F
G
Fig. 3
—5—

A
THE
TENSION
What
happens
now,
if
the
upper
tension
is
too weak?
At
the
moment
the
lower
thread
should
he
drawn from
the
bobbin
to
finish
the
stitch,
its
resistance becomes
too
strong
in
relation
to
the
upper
tension.
Thus
the
upper
thread
in
unwound
before
the
lower
thread
is
drawn
into
the
material.
The
thread
take-up
lever
no
longer
meets
with enough
resistance
from
the
upper
tension
to
enable
the
thread
to
cross
in
the material
and
the
hewer
thread
remains
tretched
(Fig.
4
C).
What
happens,
if the
upper
tension
is
too
tight?
At the
moment
the
lower
thread should
be
drawn from
the
bobbin
to
finish
the
stitch,
its
resistance
is
too
weak
in
relation
to
the
upper
tension.
The lower
thread
thus
un
winds
too
freely and
does
not
offer
enough
resistance
to
the
pull
of
the
upper thread.
The
upper
thread withdraws
entirely
from
the
material
and
remains
stretched
on
top
of
it.
whilst
the
lower
thread
crosses
right
through
it
(Fig.
4 8).
It
is
most
important
that
the
functioning
of
the
upper
tension
and how
it
should
be
adjusted
be
explained
in
detail
to
the
user.
Fig.
5
Fig.
5
starts
by
showing
a
perfect
seam,
then
a
skipped
stitch
(A)
and then
a
broken
thread
(B).
Skipped
stitches
are
caused
when,
for
one
reason
or
another,
the
point
of
the
hook
does
not
catch
the
loop
of
the
upper
thread.
On
all
lock-stitch
machines,
regardless
of
what
shuttle
systems
they
may
have,
the
upper
thread
has to
form
the
loop
explained
in
detail
below.
When
a
threaded
needle
pierces
the
material,
the
thread
will
slip
into
the
two
grooves
on
the needle,
in
order
thus
to
offer
the least
resistance
when
passing
through
the
material.
However,
this
resistance
increases
on
the
side
of
the
short
groove,
as
the
latter
disappears
in
the
materi
al,
because
the
thread
is
now no
longer
in
the
groove
but
is
jammed
between
the
body
of
the
needle
and
the
material.
Thus the
thread
remains
stretched,
until
the
needle
reaches
its
lowest
point
(Fig.
6>.
When
the needle
starts
moving
upwards
again,
the
thread
in
the
long
groove
(F)
can
slide
without
difficulty
be
tween
the needle
and
the
material
(Fig.
7). As
on
the
short-grooved
side
(E)
the
thread
is
jammed,
it
can
not
slide
along
with
the
needle
and,
therefore,
forms
a
small
loop
on
the
same
side.
Fig.
7
Now
the
different
shuttle
systems
come
into
play.
They
all
have
the
same
task,
which
is
to
pass
the
bobbin
with
the
lower
thread
through
the
loop.
This
is what
is called
stitch
formation.
Fig.
6
P
F
V
4
1
—6-—

USING
THE
FOOT
CONTROL
TO
CONNECT
THE
FOOT
CONTROL
WIRES:
Connect
special
plug to
block
on
machine
as
shown
in
diagram
above.
*
Connect
outlet
plug
to
electrical
outlet.
When
sewing,
keep
children’s hands
away from
toot
control
and wiring.
*
After
sewing,
disconnect
plug
from electrical
outlet.
Your
sewing
machine
is
equipped
with
a
grounded
foot
control,
the
outlet
plug
will
have
a
third
round
prong
which acts
as
ground.
Your
electrical
outlet
must
have a
matching
recepticle.
TO
USE
THE
FOOT
PEDAL:
*
Begin
sewing
by
turning
the hand
wheel
toward
you and
apply
gradu
ally
increasing
pressure
to
foot
pedal.
*
Sewing
at
a
constant
speed
will
give
best
results.
—
7—