WizWheelz TerraTrike 3.21 User manual

TerraTrike 3.21
Owner’s Manual
Never underestimate the power of a human.

Cautions/Safety:
Stop! Make sure to read and understand this manual completely before riding your
TerraTrike. We want to keep you riding your TerraTrike safely for endless miles and
years to come. So, always follow these safety precautions for each ride:
>- Inspect your TerraTrike each time before riding. Check the tires for proper
pressure and any damage; Ensure the brakes are functioning at their full
capacity.
>- Your helmet! You do have a helmet, don't you? Please remember: A helmet is
your most important piece of safety equipment. Put on a skidlid, noggin box,
brain bucket, melon mount, or whatever you call it... you'll look cooler!
>- Do not ride the TerraTrike at night under any circumstances without a white
headlight visible from a distance of 500 feet, and a red rear taillight.
>- Look behind you! We strongly recommend the use of a rear view mirror. With it,
you can keep tabs on the action you just left behind. But make sure to turn your
head and look before turning or changing lanes. You can miss seeing vehicles
or other riders coming up behind you if you only use the mirror.
>- Turning: It's fun to ride on two wheels, but only when your vehicle has only two. If
you have three, keep them all on the ground. AIso, use caution when cornering
at speed and learn what are safe speeds for negotiating corners and going
down hills (Just as if you were to turn sharply at high speed in a car, the
TerraTrike can be upset if turned too sharply for a given speed). It is best to be
more cautious while you are gaining proficient riding experience.
>- Braking: Make sure to brake evenly using both hands. The TerraTrike is designed
with front brakes only. You will experience brake-steer if you brake unevenly on
only one side (On a 2-wheeled bike, if you were to jam on the front brake, you
could easily flip over the handlebars. Similarly, on the TerraTrike, sudden uneven
braking can cause the TerraTrike to turn sharply or possibly rollover).
>- Although with more rugged tires, the TerraTrike is suitable for riding on dirt
roads, it was not designed for all-terrain, off-road use, or near-earth-orbit! No
airborne-use. The TerraTrike only becomes unsafe if operated in an unsafe
manner!
>- The unique look of the TerraTrike attracts much attention. So, you're more likely
to be seen by motorists, provided you are not obstructed from view by other
vehicles. Remember, your first line of defense is always your own common
sense. Ride in places where you are easily seen.

>- Do not use the steering system to support your weight while getting on and off. Use
the wheels and/or seat instead. The handlebar was not designed to hold your
weight.
>- The TerraTrike was designed to accommodate a rider of average height and
weight. Heavier riders should consider the TerraTank Frameset option. If You are
of average build or below, then you are within the design limits of the standard
frameset. Although, that is not a license to ride in a hazardous or abusive
manner! Anyone could damage the trike if they tried hard enough. Use
common sense.
>- The alignment of the front wheels is a crucial adjustment when connecting the
tierods. A misaligned TerraTrike can become very unstable at high speeds.
Make sure to follow the setup instructions ( Step 6. ) for the toe adjustment very
carefully.
Assembly & Setup Information:
When your TerraTrike arrives, carefully unpack the contents and inspect for any
damage that may have occurred during shipping. If anything is amiss, contact the
WizWheelz sales office immediately at [phone].
Checklist
When you unpack, this is what you should have:
o Boom with attached parts
o Frame with attached parts
o Left and Right front wheels with hub mounts
o Rear Wheel D Seat frame
o Parts Package:
• Chain & master links
• Rear Derailleur/cable housing
• Quick release skewer
• 4 cable end cups
• Parking Brake (Velcro Strap)
• Miscellaneous fasteners
• Seat mesh & end caps
o Any ordered accessories
***Save all boxes and packing materials.***
***You will need them if you ever want to ship your TerraTrike,
or need to have any warranty service.***

The following assembly is required:
Attachment of the wheels, attachment of the boom, steering system setup,
setup of the derailleurs, connection of the brake and shift cables, chain
attachment, and attachment of the seat.
Tools you need:
Bicycle air pump (presta valve), adjustable wrench or metric & English socket sets,
tape measure, Phillips head screwdriver, wire cutters, pliers, English & metric Allen
wrenches.
If you don't feel qualified to perform any of the assembly and setup operations,
make sure to contact a local bicycle shop for assistance. WizWheelz can recommend
a good shop in most cities.
Time Required For Assembly:
I'm an expert bike mechanic °°°°° 1.25 hours
I'm a fairly mechanically inclined person °°°°°°°° 2.00 hours
I don't normally do this, but I'll give it a try °°°°°°°°°°°° 3.00 hours
What is a wrench? °°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°°° Call a Bike Shop!
Assembly & Setup:
Step 1. Inflate the tires to 80% of their recommended pressures indicated on the
tire sidewalls. This is because you are riding on three wheels rather than two! It is also
very important that both front tires have the same pressure. Otherwise, the steering
will not be balanced.
Step 2. Putting on the rear wheel: Install the quick release skewer in the axle with a
spring on either side (small end of spring points in). Loosen both sides of the skewer so
that the dropouts (the slotted ends of the frame to hold the rear wheel) can be
completely seated on the rear axle. Thumb tighten the nuts. Clamp the quick release
closed. If you have it correct, you should feel resistance when the lever is about a
third of the way through its movable range. Make sure it's tight! (See Fig. 1 )

Step 3. Putting on the front wheels: The front wheels are preconnected to their
respective hub mounts, and have a left a right side orientation. The hub mounts will
need to be connected to the yokes at the ends of the outrigger tubes. Remove the
kingpin from the hub mount by unscrewing the kingpin nut. Position each hub mount in
the yoke so that the kingpin can be passed through the top hole in the yoke, the hub
mount, and finally the bottom hole in the yoke. Put the kingpin nut back on the
kingpin. Note: It is very important that the hub mounts turn freely. This will affect your
high-speed stability. The steering system should be tight enough to eliminate play, but
still turn with little to no resistance. (See Fig. 2)
Step 4. Attaching the boom: To attach the boom, slide it onto the stub tube at the
front of the frame. Make sure the chainring is on the drive side, and is parallel with the
rear wheel (perpendicular to the ground). Tighten the front clamp bolt. Make sure the
idler chain guard L-bracket is pointing straight down, and tighten the idler axle bolt
until you cannot move the chainguard with your hand. Do not over tighten, or it will
affect your chain line. (See Fig. 3)

Step 5. Handlebar adjustment: Attach the steering brace to the frame using the
nut and washer supplied. Loosen the bolts in the steering clamp. Set the handlebar
up so the grips are pointing straight up (perpendicular to the floor). This is a good
place to start, but you may want to adjust the angle later to suite you're your
personal ergonomics. Tighten the bolts. (See Fig. 4)
Note: Your new steering brace comes with holes for commuting, and touring.
The rear holes in the steering brace tongue are for quick, tight maneuvering.
This position will be best in traffic and tight cornered bike paths. The forward
holes are for long, strait or higher speed trips. This position will be more stable at
higher speeds, but won't turn as tightly. Make sure you use the same position for
both Left and Right. If you switch positions later you will need to reset your
alignment.
Note: It is also important that the steering brace turn freely. This will affect your high-
speed stability. The steering system should be tight enough to eliminate play, but still
turn with little to no resistance.
Step 6. Steering set up: Remove the bolts at the end of each tierod. Position the
tierod end under the hole in the hub mount. Slide the bolt through the hub mount, the
tierod end, and then the locknut. Make sure the locknut is screwed on completely
and securely! (See Fig: 5)
The alignment of the front wheels is a crucial adjustment. A misaligned TerraTrike
can become very unstable at high speeds, and cause premature tire wear. Make sure
that the tires are properly inflated. The tierods are adjusted by loosening the tierod
locknuts toward either end of the tierods. The tierod can then be rotated freely. This
will cause the tierod ends to be moved closer together or further apart, and move
the hub mounts either more inward or outward in relation to the frame. Make sure the

handlebar stays parallel with the outrigger tubes of the frame during these adjustments.
Measure the distance between the frame and the leading edge (A), and then the
trailing edge (B) of one wheel. Adjust that wheel's tierod until these measurements
are the same. This will give you one wheel that is parallel with the frame. Now
measure the distance between the leading (C), and trailing (D) edges of the front
wheels. Adjust the other tierod until these measurements are the same. Make the
measurements from the center of the tread on each tire, and keep the tape measure
level with the ground. (See Fig. 6)
Note: The TerraTrike frame has a degree of built-in flex to absorb road shock.
Therefore, the weight of a rider will alter the steering geometry slightly. So to achieve
the optimal initial set-up, it is best to sit in the seat of the TerraTrike while having an
assistant perform the toe adjustment. The parallel position is the starting point for
finding an optimum alignment. Once the measurement is correct, tighten the tierod
locknuts. Depending on rider height, weight, and riding position, other alignments,
either toe-in or toeout, may give a more stable ride at higher speeds. If you find that
the TerraTrike becomes unstable at higher speeds, this is a good indication that the
toe adjustment is not correct. Feel free to play with the alignment, to achieve the
best position for you. As a general rule, heavier riders can see better results with a
slight toe-out, and fighter riders with a slight toe-in.
Never change the alignment more than
1
/
16
" at one time.
Keep in mind, a difference of more than
1
/
4
" is not recommended.
Step 7 . Derailleur set up: If you don't have experience with derailleurs, don't pull
your hair out over adjusting these things, as this can be difficult. Please seek the
assistance of your local bike shop!
Here is the rear derailleur setup procedure: Screw the rear derailleur onto the
frame. (See Fig. 7) Use caution not to cross the threads. This can ruin the frame.

Turn the top adjustment screw to line up the derailleur guide pulley with the
outside line of the smallest sprocket. (See Fig. 8)
Route the rear (right) shift cable:
• From the shifter on the handlebar
• Under the steering system
• To the cablestop on the underside of the maintube
• Through the cable housing at the rear of the maintube
• Then along the chainstay
• Through the derailleur cable housing, and to the rear derailleur (See Fig. 9)
Make sure all slack is out of the system, and tighten. Trim the excess to about one
and a half (1.5”), and crimp on a cable end cup. (See Fig. 10) Note: After routing any
of the cables, make sure all cable housing has proper slack, and doesn't bind up when
the handlebars are turned.

Push the derailleur arm so that the pulley wheel lines up with the center of the
largest sprocket. Turn the bottom adjustment screw to secure this position. (See Fig.
11) Very bad things can happen to your rear wheel (the chain could shift into the
spokes, and cut them) if this adjustment is not correct.
Go put the chain on in Step 8 and then come on back.
Spin the crank forward, and move the shifter one click (one click = one gear). If
the chain does not move to the next sprocket, turn the adjustment barrel out, or
counterclockwise, until the chain shifts. Continue to shift to all of the gears. Adjust the
barrel as necessary to insure accurate shifting.
Position the chain on the smallest chainring up front, and the largest sprocket in
back. Turn the crank backward. Turn the tension adjustment screw so the pulley is as
close to the sprocket as possible without touching it. Next position the chain on
smallest sprocket in back, and repeat the procedure. (See Fig. 12)

Here is the front derailleur setup procedure: Your front derailleur has been preset
for height by the factory. The front derailleur has "H" and "L" (high and low) adjustment
screws similar to the rear. Set the "L" adjustment so the clearance between the inner
plate of the derailleur and the chain is O.5mm. (See Fig. 13)
Route the front (left) shift cable:
• From the handlebar
• Under the steering system
• To the cablestop at the rear of the boom tube
• Through the cable housing at the front of the boom, and to the derailleur.
. .
Make sure all slack is out of the system, and tighten. Trim the excess to about 1.5"
and crimp on a cable end cup. (See Fig. 14)