WizWheelz TerraTrike 3.4 User manual

TerraTrike 3.4
Owner’s Manual
Exceptional
Human Powered Vehicles

2
Cautions/Safety:
Stop! Make sure to read and understand this manual completely before riding your TerraTrike.
We want to keep you riding your TerraTrike safely for endless miles and years to come. So,
always follow these safety precautions for each ride:
??Inspect your TerraTrike each time before riding. Check the tires for proper pressure and
any damage. Ensure the brakes are functioning at their full capacity.
??Your helmet! You do have a helmet, don’t you? Please remember: A helmet is your most
important piece of safety equipment. Put on a skidlid, noggin box, brain bucket, melon
mount, or whatever you call it... you'll look cooler!
??Do not ride the TerraTrike at night under any circumstances without a white
headlight visible from a distance of 500 feet, and a red rear taillight.
??Look behind you! We strongly recommend the use of a rear view mirror. With it, you can
keep tabs on the action you just left behind. But make sure to turn your head and look
before turning or changing lanes. You can miss seeing vehicles or other riders coming up
behind you if you only use the mirror.
??Turning: It’s fun to ride on two wheels, but only when your vehicle has only two. If you
have three, keep them all on the ground. Also, use caution when cornering at speed and
learn what are safe speeds for negotiating corners and going down hills (Just as if you
were to turn sharply at high speed in a car, the TerraTrike can be upset if turned too
sharply for a given speed). It is best to be more cautious while you are gaining proficient
riding experience.
??Hot Stuff: The disc brakes will get very hot after heavy braking. Do Not touch them.
??Braking: Make sure to brake evenly using both hands. The TerraTrike is designed with
front brakes only. You will experience brake-steer if you brake unevenly on only one side
(On a 2-wheeled bike, if you were to jam on the front brake, you could easily flip over the
handlebars. Similarly, on the TerraTrike, sudden uneven braking can cause the
TerraTrike to turn sharply or possibly roll over).
??Although the TerraTrike is suitable for riding on dirt roads if equipped with more rugged
tires, it was not designed for all-terrain, off-road use, or near-earth orbit. Airborne use is
not recommended. The TerraTrike only becomes unsafe if operated in an unsafe
manner!
??The unique look of the TerraTrike attracts much attention. So, you're more likely to be
seen by motorists, provided you are not obstructed from view by other vehicles.
Remember, your first line of defense is always your own common sense. Ride as if you
are invisible to motorists.
??Do not use the steering system to support your weight while getting on and off.
Use the wheels and/or seat instead. The handlebar was not designed to hold your
weight.
??Your TerraTrike is strong enough for most riding conditions. That is not a license to ride
in a hazardous or abusive manner! Anyone could damage the trike if they tried hard
enough. Use common sense.
??The alignment of the front wheels is a crucial adjustment. A misaligned TerraTrike
can become very unstable at high speeds. Make sure to follow the setup instructions
(Step 6.) for the toe adjustment very carefully.

3
Assembly & Setup Information:
When your TerraTrike arrives, carefully unpack the contents and inspect for any damage that
may have occurred during shipping. If anything is amiss, contact the WizWheelz Sales Office
immediately at [phone].
Checklist
When you unpack, this is what you should have:
??Boom with attached parts
??Frame with attached parts
??Left and Right front wheels with hubmounts
??Rear Wheel
??Seat frame
??Parts Package:
o Chain & master links
o Rear Derailleur/cable housing
o Quick release skewer
o 4 cable end cups
o Parking Brake (Velcro Strap)
o Miscellaneous fasteners
o Seat mesh & end caps
??Any ordered accessories
***Save all boxes and packing materials.***
***You will need them if you ever want to ship your TerraTrike, or need to have any warranty service.***
The following assembly is required:
Attachment of the wheels, attachment of the boom, steering system setup, setup of the
derailleurs, set up of brakes, connection of the brake and shift cables, chain attachment, and
attachment of the seat.
Tools you need:
Bicycle air pump (presta valve), adjustable wrench or metric & English socket sets, tape
measure, Phillips head screwdriver, wire cutters, pliers, English & metric Allen wrenches, soft
mallet, and the four Jacks from a deck of playing cards.
If you don’t feel qualified to perform any of the assembly and setup operations, make
sure to contact a local bicycle shop for assistance. WizWheelz can recommend a good
shop in most cities.
Time Required For Assembly:
I’m a bike mechanic ??? 1.5hours
I’m mechanically inclined ?????? 3.0hours
I can change a light bulb ?????????? 5.0hours
I think I’m mechanically inclined ??????????????? 7.5hours
What’s a wrench? Take it too a Bike Shop!

4
Assembly & Setup:
You will need a bit of space for the assembly. Make sure you have room to work. Hint: If you
don’t have a workbench or bike stand, push the top flaps of the box in, and use it as a work
stand.
Step 1. Tire Inflation:
Tools: Presta valve air pump.
Inflate the tires between 60% and 80% of their recommended pressures indicated on the tire
sidewalls. This is because you are riding on three wheels rather than two! It is also very
important that both front tires have the same pressure. Otherwise, the steering will not be
balanced.
Step 2. Putting on the front wheels:
Tools: 9/16” socket or adjustable wrench, 1/4” Allen wrench, soft headed mallet.
The front wheels are pre-connected to their respective hubmounts, and have a left and right side
orientation. The hubmounts will need to be connected to the yokes at the ends of the outrigger
tubes. Remove the kingpin from the hubmount by unscrewing the kingpin nut. Position each
hubmount in the yoke so the kingpin can be passed through the top hole in the yoke, the
hubmount, and finally the bottom hole in the yoke. You may need to tap it through with a mallet.
Put the kingpin washer and nut back on the kingpin. Tighten very securely. (See Fig. 1) Note:
You may need to retighten the kingpin nuts after a short break-in period. It’s a good idea to
check them after the first 100 miles.
Fig. 1

5
Step 3. Putting on the rear wheel:
Tools: none.
Install the quick release skewer in the axle with a spring on either side (small end of spring
points in). Loosen both sides of the skewer so that the dropouts (the slotted ends of the frame
to hold the rear wheel) can be completely seated on the rear axle. Thumb tighten the nuts.
Clamp the quick release closed. If you have it correct, you should feel resistance when the
lever is about a third of the way through its movable range. Make sure it’s tight! (See Fig. 2)
Fig. 2
Step 4. Attaching the boom:
Tools: 13mm socket or adjustable wrench, 6mm Allen wrench.
To attach the boom, slide it onto the stub tube at the front of the frame. Make sure the chainring
is on the drive side, and is parallel with the rear wheel (perpendicular to the ground). Tighten the
front clamp bolt. Make sure the idler chain guard L-bracket is pointing a little forward of straight
down, and tighten the idler axle bolt until you cannot move the chainguard with your hand. Do
not over tighten, or it will affect your chain line. (See Fig. 3) Attach the pedals. Note: The
left (non-drive side) pedal is reverse threaded.
Fig. 3

6
Step 5. Handlebar attachment/adjustment:
Tools: 9/16” socket or adjustable wrench, 3/16” Allen wrench.
Attach the steering brace to the frame using the nut and washer supplied. Tighten it enough so
that the handlebar does not turn freely, but don’t over tighten it. You’ll loosen this later.
Loosen the bolts in the steering clamp. Set the handlebar so the grips are pointing straight up
(perpendicular to the floor), and tighten the bolts. This is a good place to start, but you may
want to adjust the angle later to suit your personal ergonomics. Keep in mind that the
handlebar/seat position you choose can affect your turning radius. (See Fig. 4)
Fig. 4
Step 6. Steering set up:
Tools: 13mm socket or adjustable wrench, 5mm Allen wrench.
Remove the bolts at the outer end of each tierod. Position the tierod end under the hole in the
hubmount. Slide the bolt through the hubmount, the tierod end, and then the locknut. Make sure
the locknut is screwed on securely. You may need to push the brake arms out of the way for
this. (See Fig. 5)
Fig. 5

7
The alignment of the front wheels is a crucial adjustment. A misaligned TerraTrike can
become very unstable at high speeds, and cause premature tire wear. Make sure that the
tires are properly inflated. Make sure the handlebar stays parallel with the outrigger tubes of the
frame during the following adjustments. This is why you tightened the steering brace nut to the
point that the handlebar doesn’t turn freely.
The tierods are adjusted by loosening the tierod locknuts toward either end of the tierods. One
on each rod is reversed threaded. The tierod can then be rotated freely. This will cause the
tierod ends to be moved closer together or further apart, and move the hubmounts either more
inward or outward in relation to the frame.
Measure the distance between the frame and the leading edge (A), and then the trailing edge
(B) of one wheel. Adjust that wheel’s tierod until these measurements are the same. This will
give you one wheel that is parallel with the frame. Now measure the distance between the
leading (C), and trailing (D) edges of the front wheels. Adjust the other tierod until these
measurements are the same. Make the measurements from the center of the tread on each
tire, and keep the tape measure level with the ground. (See Fig. 6)
Note: The TerraTrike frame has a degree of built-in flex to absorb road shock. Therefore, the
weight of a rider will alter the steering geometry slightly. So, to achieve the optimal initial set-up,
it is best to sit in the seat of the TerraTrike while having an assistant perform the toe
adjustment. The parallel position is the starting point for finding an optimum alignment. Once
the measurement is correct, tighten the tierod locknuts. Be careful not to over tighten, or you
might strip the tierod ends. Depending on rider height, weight, and riding position, other
alignments, either toe-in or toe-out, may give a more stable ride at higher speeds. If you find
that the TerraTrike becomes unstable at higher speeds, this is a good indication that the toe
adjustment is not correct. Feel free to play with the alignment, to find the best position for you.
As a general rule, heavier riders can see better results with a slight toe-out, and lighter riders
with a slight toe-in. Never change the alignment more than 1/16” at one time. Keep in
mind, a difference of more than 1/4” is not recommended.
Now loosen the steering brace nut slightly. Note: It is important that the steering brace turn
freely. This will affect your high-speed stability. The steering system should be tight enough to
eliminate play, but still turn with little to no resistance.
Fig. 6

8
Step 7. Derailleur/chain set up:
Tools: 5mm Allen wrench, Phillips head screwdriver.
If you don’t have experience with derailleurs, don’t pull your hair out over adjusting these things,
as this can be difficult. Please seek the assistance of your local bike shop!
Rear derailleur setup:
Screw the rear derailleur onto the frame. (See Fig. 7) Use caution not to cross the threads.
This can ruin the frame.
Fig. 7
Next, turn the top adjustment screw to line up the derailleur guide pulley with the outside line of
the smallest sprocket. This is easiest to see when looking at it from the back of the Trike. (See
Fig. 8)
Fig. 8

9
Now, put both shift levers in the lowest (horizontal) position.
Route the rear (right) shift cable:
??From the shifter on the handlebar
??Under the steering system
??To the cablestop on the underside of the maintube
??Use the next piece of cable housing at the rear of the maintube
??Over the idler wheel axel, and up through the frame/chainstay triangle
??Through the first cablestop on the chainstay
??Then along the chainstay
??Through the derailleur cable housing, (in parts package) and to the rear derailleur
(See Fig. 9)
Fig. 9
Make sure all slack is out of the system, and tighten. Trim the excess to about 1-1/2”, and crimp
on a cable endcup. (See Fig. 10) Note: After routing any of the cables, make sure all cable
housing has proper slack, and doesn’t bind up when the handlebars are turned.
Fig. 10

10
Push the derailleur arm so that the pulley wheel lines up with the center of the largest sprocket.
Turn the bottom adjustment screw to secure this position. You may need to loosen the bottom
adjustment screw to get it lined up. (See Fig. 11) Very bad things can happen to your rear
wheel (the chain could shift into the spokes, and cut them) if this adjustment is not correct.
Fig. 11
Attaching the chain:
Two idler wheels mounted under the frame guide the chain. (See Fig. 12) The routing of the
chain is important, and can affect the operation of the TerraTrike if not installed correctly! Hint:
It’s easier to pull the chain through the system backwards when routing. Make sure the chain
does not bind on the “L” bracket chain guards.
Fig. 12