Woodstock Soapstone Fireview 201 User manual

Fireview Model 201 Maintenance Kit
Please read all of the instructions before you begin. Confirm that you
have all of the necessary tools and parts required. Allow about one hour to
complete the procedure. If you have any questions, technical support is
available toll free at 1-800-866-4344, Monday- Saturday 9:00-5:00 E.T.
Tools Needed:
-½” wrench or socket
-Putty knife
-Wire brush
-Vacuum
-WD-40 or similar penetrating liquid
-Standard size caulk gun
-Sharp scissors
-7/16” wrench and socket
-1/8” allen wrench
-Hammer
Materials included in maintenance kit:
- 3’ .312 gasket- Loading door
- 3’ .250 gasket- Under combustor hood
- 7’ .375 gasket- top lid
- 7’ .312 gasket- around baffle plate
- 8’ Adhesive window gasket
- 1 tube stove cement
- gasket glue
- #00 steel wool
The gasket in your kit has been roughly cut to size and marked with its
diameter and length. To determine its exact length, dry fit the gasket in its
appropriate location and then re-cut. Gasket glue or furnace cement will then
be applied to secure each length in its proper place. The steel wool provided
can be used to buff out surface scratches or stains in the soapstone panels.

Use a vacuum to help contain the dust. High temperature touch up paint is
available to match the cast iron frame of your stove, and can be ordered
through Woodstock Soapstone Co.
Replacing loading door gasket:
1. Make sure the stove is cool. You will need 3’ of .312 gasket and stove
cement for the loading door.
2. Open the loading door. Pull straight up on the door. The hinge pins
should slide up and out of the hinges in the door frame. It may be helpful
to swing the door back and forth as you lift.
3. Lay the door face down on a suitable work surface. Use a putty knife or
screwdriver to remove the old gasket. A wire brush may be used to clean
out any cement residue from the gasket channel. Vacuum any leftover
debris from the door and gasket channel.

4. Dry fit the gasket to the door. Start with one end of the gasket at the
center, bottom of the door. Press it firmly into the gasket channel all the
way around the door. Do not stretch or compress the gasket as you work
it around the door. Use sharp scissors to cut it to the proper length.
5. Apply a small bead of stove cement (about 3/16”) into the gasket
channel all the way around the door. Again start at the center, bottom of
the door with one end of the gasket and press it into the furnace cement
all the way around the door. Use the putty knife to tuck the gasket in
place if necessary.

6. Return the door to the stove. Align the hinge pins with the hinges on the
door frame. As you press down on the pins it may be helpful to swing
the door back and forth until it is all the way down on the hinges.
7. Close and open the door firmly several times to seat the gasket. If
necessary, adjust the set screw on the door latch for the proper tension.
Use a 7/16” wrench to loosen the lock nut and the 1/8” allen wrench to
turn the set screw.
8. Allow the stove cement to cure for 24 hours before using the stove.
Replacing top lid gasket
1. Make sure the stove is cool. You will need 7’ of .375 gasket and gasket
glue.

2. Remove the top lid from the stove and place it upside down on a
suitable work surface.
3. Use a putty knife or screwdriver to remove the old gasket. Remove any
residual gasket and glue with a wire brush and vacuum.

4. Dry fit the new gasket into the gasket channel. Start with one end of the
gasket at the center, rear of the top lid. Press the gasket into the channel
firmly all the way back to the starting point. Do not stretch or compress
the gasket as you work it around the lid. Use sharp scissors to cut gasket
to the proper length.
5. Apply a bead of gasket glue (approximately ¼”) into the gasket
channel. Use a putty knife to seat the gasket into the channel and glue.
It is important that the gasket is seated properly to form a good seal.
Pay close attention to the gasket as it forms around the corners in
particular.

6. Allow the glue to set up for 15 minutes before placing the lid back on
the stove. After waiting return the lid to the stove. Be sure the lid is
properly seated on the top frame. Keep lid closed for 24 hours.
Replacing combustor hood gasket
1. Make sure the stove is cool. You will need 3’ of .250 gasket and gasket
glue.
2. Remove the two bolts that secure the hood to the baffle plate if you
have not already done so. These bolts do not need to be tightened when
replaced but may be used to help center the hood over the opening in
the baffle. Lift the hood out of the stove and place it upside down on a
suitable work surface. It is best to leave the combustor in place to avoid
disturbing the gasket that surrounds it.

3. Use a putty knife to remove the old gasket from around the perimeter
of the hood. Remove any residual gasket and furnace cement with a
wire brush and vacuum.
4. Dry fit the new gasket. Start one end of the gasket at either end of the
hood and press it into the gasket channel, work it all the way around to
the opposite end. Use sharp scissors to cut the proper length. Remove
the gasket.
5. Apply a small bead of gasket glue into the gasket channel. Firmly press
the new gasket into the glue. It may be helpful to secure the gasket in
place with small pieces of masking tape to prevent it from shifting
while replacing the hood.
6. Return hood to stove. Use the bolts to center it over the opening in the
baffle.
Replacing gasket around baffle

1. Make sure the stove is cool. You will need 7’ of .312 gasket and
furnace cement.
2. Remove the top lid from the stove and set it aside.
3. Remove the old stove cement and gasket from around the baffle. Use
a stiff putty knife and hammer to gently chip the old furnace cement
away from the baffle and soapstone panels. Some may fall through
into the firebox below. Use a wire brush and vacuum to clean up any
residual cement and debris on the baffle and in the firebox.
4. Use a putty knife to install the new gasket. Start in any corner and
push the gasket into the gap between the stone and baffle. The gasket
should be just slightly below the edge of the baffle. Do not push the
gasket down into the firebox.
5. Apply a bead of stove cement over the top of the new gasket. Use
your finger or putty knife to smooth the cement. Wash hands and tools
with warm soapy water.

6. Return top lid to stove. Be sure it is seated properly.
7. Allow 48 hours for the stove cement to cure. 1 or 2 small fires will
drive any residual moisture from the cement and finish the curing
process.
Replacing window gasket
1. Make sure the stove is cool. You will need 8’ of adhesive window gasket
(4’ for each glass panel as some stoves have 2 panels). Spray all
hardware to be removed with penetrating liquid, several applications may
be necessary.
2. Use a 1/2” socket or wrench to remove the three bolts that secure the
glass retainer from inside the firebox. (NOTE: When you remove the
glass retainer, lean it against the rear wall of the stove. It will not fit
through the door opening.)

3. Remove the glass panels from the front frame. Start with the bottom edge
and carefully pull them into the firebox and out through the loading door.
4. Remove the old gasket from the glass panels and clean the glass using
household window cleaner and a soft cloth. (If a more aggressive
cleaning is needed you may use a cleaner made for ceramic cook tops, or
very fine steel wool). Rinse and dry thoroughly.
5. Place a piece of cardboard or some form of protection on top of a
workbench. The glass gasket is adhesive with a paper backing. Peel the
backing and fold the gasket evenly around the edge of the glass. Start in
the center of one of the shorter sides and work all the way around the
glass panel.

6. If your stove has two panels, place the panels together so that the break in
the gasket on one panel is opposite the break in the other panel.
7. Slide the panel(s) up into the window frame together ensuring that they
are aligned with each other.
8. Reinstall the glass retainer.
NOTE: There is no “cure time” to abide by, however the adhesive on the
window gasket may emit a strong odor for the first 4-8 hours of high
temperature use.
Sealing the firebox seams
1. Make sure the fire is completely extinguished and no hot coals or
embers are hidden in the ashes in the firebox.
2. Remove all ash from the firebox. Use a vacuum to thoroughly clean the
firebox.
3. Use a putty knife to remove any loose stove cement from the corners
and base of the firebox. Vacuum out any debris.
4. Apply a bead of fresh stove cement over the existing cement in the
corners, around the base, and around the cast iron door and front frame.

5. Smooth the new stove cement with your finger or putty knife. Clean
hands and tools with warm soapy water.
6. Allow 48 hours for the stove cement to cure. 1 or 2 small fires will drive
any residual moisture from the cement and finish the curing process.
We need your help! Woodstock Soapstone Co. takes great pride in
providing the highest quality products as well as the best customer service in
our industry. We welcome your suggestions and input to help us achieve
these goals. If you have any comments to improve our products, service, and
information provided in these instructions please contact us at (800) 866-
4344 or [e-mail]. Thank you.
Revised 5/10/10