3DAeroventures Micro SportCam User manual
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Included in Your Download:
1. STL Files
2. Simplify3D Factory Files (individual parts and grouped builds)
3. Starter Cura and PrusaSlicer settings (user refinement needed)
4. Generic Gcode for i3 style printers
5. PDF Build Guide
Please Read A Note from the Designer:
First of all, thank you so much for your interest and support of 3DAeroventures. I can’t tell
you how much joy I get out of designing and testing these aircraft, and the fact that you can
now get joy out of my creations just makes this calling that much more special. I dove into the
R/C aircraft hobby as a 12 year old kid with my dad and it’s a passion I’ve maintained into
adulthood. Part of 3DAeroventures mission is to encourage people to not let go of the thing
they were most passionate about growing up. That’s why our motto is “Never Stop Exploring.
Never Stop Questioning. Never Stop Playing.” I hope the building and flying of this model
keeps your passion for model aviation ignited. More importantly, I encourage you to share
your build and flying process with young people, hopefully igniting a fire in them and helping
to maintain and grow this wonderful hobby.
Now onto the technical stuff. I recommend printing the Micro SportCam in ColorFabb LW-PLA.
The reduced weight of this material improves its flight performance significantly, particularly
giving it gentler flight characteristics on landing. The biggest complaint I hear about LW-PLA
is that it is expensive at about $50 for 750g. At first glance this does sound expensive, but you
must realize that LW-PLA is printed at an extrusion multiplier (flow) of between 0.35 - 0.4 so a whole
reel will last significantly longer than Standard PLA. One reel of LW-PLA will last as long as
about 2 reels of standard PLA. However, I understand that LW-PLA isn’t for everyone. So I have
provided seperate design files for a standard PLA version of the Micro SportCam. The standard
PLA version uses the same motor setup but you may need to experiment with a larger 2S or a 3S
battery to get the aircraft to balance properly. I had good results using a 650 mah 3S Lipo in the
standard PLA version.
I’d love to hear about your build and flight experience with this aircraft. You may contact me
directly at eric@3daeroventures.com with any feedback or troubleshooting questions. Or post
your experiences on the 3DAeroventures Pilots Alliance Facebook Group.
Thanks again and enjoy your flight!
Eric Haddad
Pilot in Command
https://www.facebook.com/groups/3daeroventurespilots
mailto: eric@3daeroventures.com
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Specs:
Wingspan: 695mm / 27.4”
Length: 482.7mm / 19”
Height: 200mm / 7.9”
Wing Area: 118.4 in²
Wing Loading (LW-PLA): 9 oz/ft²
Wing Cube Loading: 9.9
Flight Performance Category: General Sport and Scale Aerobatics
Center of Gravity Location:
33mm behind the Wing’s Leading Edge
Weight of Printed Parts (LW-PLA): 110g / 3.88 oz
Weight of Printed Parts (PLA): 195g / 6.88 oz
Flying Weight (2S 650 mAh): 210g (LW-PLA) to 300g (Standard PLA) / 7.4 - 10.58 oz
Recommended Max Flying Weight: 320g / 11.29 oz
No. of Channels: 4 - Throttle, Aileron, Elevator, Rudder
(Flaperons optional)
33mm
CG Location 33mm behind
the Wing’s Leading Edge
NOTE: All part weights shown in the manual are for parts printed from LW-PLA. If you would
like to print the aircraft from standard PLA, reference pages 38 - 39 for target PLA weights.
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Tools and Materials Needed:
- Min 150mm x 150mm x 180mm desktop 3D Printer
- ColorFabb LW-PLA (Recommended)
- High Quality Standard PLA
- TPU or TPE for Tires
- Medium Bodied CA/Super Glue
- Accelerator for CA
- Sandpaper and/or Small Files
- Velcro strips with adhesive backing
- Screwdriver and/or allen wrench for chosen screws/bolts
- Needle Nose Pliers for bending nose gear wire
Recommended Setup:
EMAX MT1806 - 2280KV
Motor Options:
or motor with equivalent mounting pattern
12A - 20A Esc like EMAX SimonK Series 12A ESC
APC 4.75x4.75 Electric Pusher
2S 650mAh LiPo or
3S 450 - 650 mAh
Radio + 5 Channel Reciever
EMAX ES9251ii (2.5g) Digital Servo or equivalent 18.02x7.91x16.8mm size servo (x4)
Y Harness for aileron servos (optional)
- Alternativeley, we recommend using a 5 channel receiver to mix aileron servos
Hardware Needed:
- 5mm O.D x 3mm Thick Rare Earth Magnets for Removable Canopy..........................................
-
- 3mm O.D. x 190mm Long Carbon Fiber Tubes or Rod for fuselage...........................................
- 3mm O.D. (or 1/8” O.D) x 10mm Long Dowel Pins (cut from leftover carbon tube/rod).............
-1mm O.D. Carbon fiber rod or Steel Wire
- 240mm Long for Wing Struts (x4)................................................................................
- 300mm Long for Aileron Hinge (x2).............................................................................
- 230mm Long for Elevator Hinge..................................................................................
- 100mm Long for Rudder Hinge....................................................................................
- 0.8mm - 1.2mm steel wire for servo control rods....................................................................
- 1mm - 1.2mm steel wire for nose gear option..........................................................................
Quantity:
4
M3 x 0.5mm Thread x 12mm - 15mm Long Screws for Wheels (nylon preferred)....................... 2
2
4
4
2
1
1
2
1
- Servo Control Rod Connectors............................................................................................... 2
ESC Options:
Rec. Prop:
Battery:
Radio: Servos:
Flite Test "Radial" 1806 2280kV Brushless Motor
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Step-by-Step Build Guide
Step 1. 3D Printing the Included Parts
Minimum Requirements:
150mm x 150mm x 180mm Print Bed Size
0.4mm Nozzle
Heated Bed (recommended)
Any Slicer Software
Option 1: G-Code
Transfer the included G-Code to an SD Card and run directly
on your i3 style printer. We’ve had good results with LW-PLA at
250º Celcius and standard PLA at 220º Celcius but experiment
with your printer to make sure you achieve strong layer adhesion.
Option 2: Simplify 3D Factory Files
If you prefer to use Simplify3D as your slicer, open
the included Factory Files and edit the preset profiles
for your printer/material to ensure nice outer surfaces,
excellent layer bonding, and good a bond between the
outer skin and the internal structures.
Your Options for Printing the Parts:
Option 3: STL + Your Preferred Slicer
If you prefer to use another slicer or create your own profiles
in Simplify3D, use the included STL files and the starter Cura
or PrusaSlicer profiles as a starting point. This will require
the most experimenting and expertise in your chosen slicer to
ensure nice outer surfaces, excellent layer bonding, and good
bonds between the outer skin and the internal structures.
NOTE: The Aileron, Elevator and Rudder parts on the Micro SportCam are designed to
be printed in vase mode, with 0% infill. You can use 1 or 2 perimeters. If printing in
LW-PLA, we suggest printing with 2 perimeters for added strength.
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Step-by-Step Build Guide (cont’d)
3D Printing Tips
Standard PLA Temperatures:
We see good results printing Paramount3D PLA at 220ºC
with a bed temperature of 70ºC. Experiment with your
particular printer and brand of material to ensure proper
layer bonding but you will likely land somewhere between
210 and 240ºC.
Cooling Fan:
Typically, PLA is printed with the fan set to 100%. However,
this can cause layer bonding issues when printing thin walled
aircraft. We have experienced nice , clean outer surfaces
when keeping the fan speed up to 20% without negatively
affecting layer bonding. Experiment with fan speeds set
between 0 - 20%.
ColorFabb LW-PLA
ColorFabb LW-PLA is an interesting material that uses foaming
technology to achieve lightweight, low density PLA parts. This
material is printed at a higher temperature (which causes it
to expand) and a much lower extrusion multiplier than standard
PLA. In order to determine the proper nozzle temperature and
extrusion multipler for your particular printer you can follow
ColorFabb’s instructions: https://learn.colorfabb.com/print-lw-pla/
We had good results printing LW-PLA at 250ºC at an Extrusion Multiplier of 0.4
and a bed temp of 60ºC. You will also likely combat quite a bit of stringing with
LW-PLA. We increase X/Y Axis Movement Speed to 200mm/s and run the cooling
fan at 25% to help combat stringing. The LW-PLA version of Micro SportCam has
also been designed with few lightening holes to help minimize stringing.
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Step-by-Step Build Guide (cont’d)
3D Printing Tips (cont’d)
Standard PLA Extrusion Multiplier (Flow):
You will need to experiment with extrusion multiplier for
your particular printer and material. You will likely land
somewhere between 0.95 and 1.05 extrusion multiplier.
3DAeroventures Simplify3D Factory Files:
You will notice our factory file presets are setup to provide
a balance between strength and light weight structures.
Strategic areas are setup with slightly thicker walls with the
rest of the structure using the “Allow Single Extrusion Walls”
option selected.
Elephant’s Foot:
Try to avoid the first few layers of each print from
squishing too far outside the designed wall dimensions,
also known as “elephant’s foot”. This can be caused by
your nozzle being too close to the print bed or first layer
width set too high in your slicer. A small amount of
elephant’s foot is okay but too much will interfere with
the designed alignment aids.
Support Structures:
The “Canopy” part of this aircraft requires support
structures and it’s recommended to use your slicer’s
auto-generated support tructures. The GCode and
the Simplify3D FactoryFiles already have the
support structures in place.
Fuse 1 (11g) Tire- TPE
(Total Landing Gear Weight 12g)
Main Gear Tire Hub 1 (PLA)
Main Gear Tire Hub 2 (PLA)
Fuse 2 (15g)
Fuse 3 (7g)
Horiz Stab L (2g)
Vert Stab (2g)
Canopy (5g)
Servo Tray (2g) (PLA)
Horiz Stab R (2g)
Main Gear Strut (PLA, ABS, or PETG)
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Step 2. Fuselage + Stabilizers Assembly
Tools and Materials Needed:
- Medium Bodied CA/Super Glue
- Accelerator for CA
- Sandpaper and/or Small Files
- Needle Nose Pliers for bending nose gear wire
Step-by-Step Build Guide (cont’d)
Printed Parts Needed (Tail Dragger Option):
Hardware Needed (links to recommended hardware on pg 4):
- 5mm O.D x 3mm Thick Rare Earth Magnets for Removable Canopy
- M3 x 0.5mm Thread x 15mm Long Screws for Wheels (nylon preferred)
- 3mm O.D. x 400mm Long Carbon Fiber Tube or Rod for fuselage cut to these lengths:
- 190mm Long (x2)
- 3mm O.D. (or 1/8” O.D) x 10mm Long Dowel Pins (cut from leftover carbon tube/rod)
Tire- TPE
Nose Gear Tire Hub 1 (PLA)
Nose Gear Tire Hub 2 (PLA)
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Additional Tools and Materials Needed:
- Needle Nose Pliers for bending nose gear wire
- Heat gun for heat shrink tube
Step-by-Step Build Guide (cont’d)
Additional Printed Parts Needed (Tricycle Gear Option):
Additional Hardware Needed (links to recommended hardware on pg 4):
- 1 - 1.2mm diameter steel wire for nose gear
- Heat shrink tube or small wheel collar to hold nose gear in place
For easier take offs and landings you have the option to setup the Micro SportCam
in a tricycle gear configuration. In addition to the materials, tools, and printed parts
shown on page 8, you will need:
Step 2.1 Cut 3mm O.D. Carbon Fiber Tubes to Length
When printing with LW-PLA you will likely have some residual stringing. Inspect
all of the printed parts for stringing and use sand paper, a small file or a hobby
knife to eliminate the stringing, especially in areas where parts will mate. You
will find most of the stringing comes off quite easily.
Step 2.2 Cut or Sand Away Any Stringing
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Step-by-Step Build Guide (cont’d)
Using a rotary tool (Dremel), miter saw, or hand saw, cut your 3mm carbon fiber
fuselage tubes and dowel pins to the proper lengths. You will need:
Qty. 2 190mm long
Qty. 2 10mm long
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Step-by-Step Build Guide (cont’d)
2.3.1 Insert one of the 3mm diameter x 190mm long carbon fiber tubes and the
two 3mm diameter x 10mm long dowel pins into Fuse 1. Insert the second
3mm diameter x 190mm long carbon fiber tube into Fuse 3.
Step 2.3 Glue Fuselage Parts Together
ASSEMBLY TIP: We recommend sanding all mating faces with either 220 grit sandpaper or a small,
flat file to ensure a flat surface and to give the CA glue some “grit” to adhere to. This provides a
very strong bond.
Fuse 1 (11g)
Tire- TPE
(Total Landing Gear Weight 12g)
Main Gear Tire Hub 1 (PLA)
Main Gear Tire Hub 2 (PLA)
Fuse 2 (15g)
Fuse 3 (7g)
Horiz Stab L (2g)
Vert Stab (2g)
Canopy (5g)
Servo Tray (2g)
Horiz Stab R (2g)
Main Gear Strut (PLA, ABS, or PETG)
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Step-by-Step Build Guide (cont’d)
2.3.2 Glue parts Fuse 1 - Fuse 3 together using CA glue. Spray accelerator on the
joint to speed curing of the CA glue. The built in alingment tabs will keep
all parts well aligned. NOTE: Because of the stringing of LW-PLA you may
need to clean up the alignmet tabs and alignment holes with a hobby knife
Horiz Stab L (2g)
Vert Stab (2g)
Step-by-Step Build Guide (cont’d)
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2.3.3 Using a hot knife, follow the molded
in line/guide to cut away the sacrificial
support located in the front of the
fuselage.
2.3.5 Glue parts Vert Stab, Horiz Stab R, and Horiz Stab L using CA glue. Ensure
the Vert Stab is as close to vertical as possible, and the Horiz Stab is as
perpendicular as possible before spraying the joints with accelerator.
Horiz Stab L (2g)
Vert Stab (2g)
Horiz Stab R (2g)
2.3.4 Prior to gluing the Stab parts on the fuselage you may want to drill out
the holes for the hinge rod. We used a 1mm hinge rod so we drilled out
with a 1.2mm drill bit.
Step-by-Step Build Guide (cont’d)
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2.3.6 The canopy is held in place with 5mm O.D. x 3mm thick rare earth magnets.
Apply a drop of glue into each magnet recess in the Canopy part and pop
in your magnet. The mating magnets can then be glued into the magnet
recesses in part Fuse 1. BE EXTRA CAREFUL TO GLUE THESE MAGNETS IN
THE PROPER ORIENTATION SO AS TO ATTRACT AND NOT REPELL THE
MATING MAGNET.
2.3.7 A seperate Servo Tray part is required to
stiffen up the servo mounting area. Glue
the Servo Tray into the recess designed
into the servo area of the fuselage.
BE EXTRA CAREFUL TO ALIGN THE
SERVO CUTOUTS ON THE TRAY WITH
THE SERVO CUTOUTS IN THE FUSELAGE.
Servo Tray (2g) (PLA)
Step 2.4 Assemble Your Preferred Landing Gear
Step-by-Step Build Guide (cont’d)
2.4.1 Main Gear Tire Hub 1 and Main Gear Tire Hub 2 are designed to be inserted into
each open side of the Tire-TPE component. Insert Main Gear Tire Hub 1 into
one side of the TPE Tire, apply a small amount of CA glue to the mating face of
the hub and insert Main Gear Tire Hub 2 into the other side of the TPE Tire.
2.4.2 Main Gear Tire Hub 1 has a recess in it for the
M3 x 0.5mm Thread x 15mm long screws.
Insert a screw into each tire and screw them
into the hole in the Main Gear Strut. Make
sure you do not over-tighten the screw so the
tires can turn freely. Apply a drop of CA glue
and accelerator where the screw exits the
inside of the Main Gear Strut.
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Fuse 1 (11g) Tire- TPE
(Total Main Landing Gear Weight 12g)
Main Gear Tire Hub 1 (PLA)
Main Gear Tire Hub 2 (PLA)
Fuse 2 (15g)
Fuse 3 (7g)
Horiz Stab L (2g)
Vert Stab (2g)
Canopy (5g)
Servo Tray (2g)
Horiz Stab R (2g)
Main Gear Strut (PLA, ABS, or PETG)
You have the option to setup the Micro SportCam in a taildragger configuration or
a tricycle gear configuration. Here are some important notes about the landing gear:
1. The Main Gear Strut is the same for both configurations. It will just be glued into
a different location on the fuselage depending on which configuration you choose.
2. The TPE Tire is the same for the main gear and the nose gear, but you also have the
option of a larger diameter Bush Wheel for the taildragger configuration.
3. The nose gear uses different Tire Hub parts which have a smaller diamater through
hole for the nose gear wire.
Tire- TPE
Nose Gear Tire Hub 1 (PLA)
Nose Gear Tire Hub 2 (PLA)
2.4.3 If you choose the tricycle gear configuration, print out the drawing of the nose
gear wire located on the following page to aid in bending a 1mm - 1.2mm
diameter steel wire to the proper shape.
2.4.4 Nose Gear Tire Hub 1 and Nose Gear Tire Hub 2 are designed to be inserted into
each open side of the Tire-TPE component. Insert Nose Gear Tire Hub 1 into
one side of the TPE Tire, apply a small amount of CA glue to the mating face of
the hub and insert Nose Gear Tire Hub 2 into the other side of the TPE Tire.
Set the landing gear aside - it will be attached to the model in a later
step during final assembly.
2.4.5 Slide the Nose Gear Tire assembly onto
the nose gear wire and hold it in place
with a small wheel collar, or use a heat
gun to shrink a small piece of heat shrink
tubing on the tip of the wire.
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Step-by-Step Build Guide (cont’d)
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Step-by-Step Build Guide (cont’d)
Step 3. Wing + Aileron Assembly
Tools and Materials Needed:
- Medium Bodied CA/Super Glue
- Accelerator for CA
- Sandpaper and/or Small Files
Printed Parts Needed:
3.1.1 Prior to gluing the parts together you may need to clear out the hinge holes with a
small drill bit. Glue parts Wing R1 and Wing R2 together using CA glue. Spray
accelerator on the joint to speed curing of the CA glue. The built in alingment tabs
will keep all parts well aligned.
Step 3.1 Glue The Wing Parts Together
Wing L1 (8g)
Wing R1 (8g) Aileron ServoTray(PLA) (x2)
Aileron R1 (2g)
Motor Pod Lid (PLA, PETG, ABS)
Motor Pod (PLA, PETG, ABS)
Aileron R2 (2g)
Aileron L2 (2g)
Aileron L1 (2g)
Wing L2 (7g)
Wing R2 (7g)
(5g Total)
Hardware Needed (links to recommended hardware on pg 4):
- 3mm O.D. (or 1/8” O.D) x 10mm Long Dowel Pins (cut from leftover carbon tube/rod) (x2)
- 1mm O.D. x 300mm Long O.D. Carbon fiber rod or Steel Wire (x2) for Aileron Hinge
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Step-by-Step Build Guide (cont’d)
3.1.3 Holding Aileron R in place in the wing,
route the 1mm O.D. carbon fiber rod
through the entry hole at the root of
Wing R, through the aileron and wing
hinge holes, until the rod is fully
inserted. Ensure the aileron moves
freely.
3.1.2 Prior to gluing parts Aileron R1 and Aileron R2 together, use the 1mm
O.D. carbon fiber rod or steel rod to make sure it slides freely in the
hinge hole. Then glue the two aileron parts together using the carbon
fiber rod and the built in alignment aid to keep the two parts aligned.
Laying the parts upside down on a flat surface while gluing helps keep
them aligned as well.
BE VERY CARFEUL NOT TO GLUE THE 1mm O.D. CARBON FIBER ROD
PERMANENTLY IN PLACE
DO NOT GLUE THE WING HALVES TOGETHER YET. THE AILERONS MUST
BE ATTACHED FIRST.
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Step-by-Step Build Guide (cont’d)
3.1.5 Repeat the previous 4 steps for the left wing using parts Wing L1, Wing L2.
Aileron L1, Aileron L2, and another Aileron Servo Tray.
3.1.6 Now that both ailerons are installed, glue the Right Wing and Left Wing
together with CA glue, using the 3mm diameter x 10mm long dowel pins
to align the wings.
3.1.4 Use a sharp hobby knife to clear out any stringing or debri from the servo
opening and glue the PLA Aileron Servo Tray in place with CA glue. You may
want to drill out the servo mounting holes with a 1.2mm drill bit prior to
gluing.
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