Airmar TRIDUCER DST800 User manual

Pretest
Connect the multisensor to the instrument and spin the paddlewheel.
Check for a speed reading and the approximate air temperature.
If there are no readings or they are inaccurate, check all the
connections and repeat the test. If there are still no readings or they
are inaccurate, return the product to the place of purchase.
Antifouling Paint
Aquatic growth can accumulate rapidly on the multisensor’s surface
reducing performance within weeks. Surfaces exposed to salt water
must be coated with antifouling paint. Use WATER-BASED
antifouling paint only. Never use ketone-based paint, since ketones
can attack many plastics possibly damaging the sensor.
It is easier to apply antifouling paint before installation, but allow
sufficient drying time.
Reapply paint every 6
months or at the
beginning of each boating
season. Paint the
following surfaces (see
Figure 1):
• Outside wall of the
insert below the lower
O-ring
•Paddlewheel cavity
•Paddlewheel
• Exposed end of the
insert
• Exterior lip of the
housing
• Bore of the housing up
30mm (1-1/4")
•Blanking plug below the
lower O-ring including
the exposed end
17-355-01 rev. 05 09/06
CAUTION : NEVER USE SOLVENTS!
Cleaners, fuel, paint, sealants, and other products may
contain strong solvents, such as acetone, which attack
many plastics greatly reducing their strength.
Retractable TRIDUCER
®
Multisensor
Model DST800
U.S. Patents: 4,898,029; Re-issue 33, 982; 6,904,798 B2.
Australian Patent 605,281.Canadian Patent 1,313,775. Japanese Patent 1851014
Applications
• Plastic housing recommended for fiberglass or metal hulls only.
Never install a plastic housing in a wood hull since swelling of
the wood may overstress the plastic causing a fracture.
• Bronze housing recommended for fiberglass or wood hulls.
Never mount a bronze housing in an aluminum hull because
electrolytic corrosion will occur.
• Stainless steel housing compatible with all hull materials.
Recommended for aluminum hulls to prevent electrolytic corrosion
provided the stainless steel housing is isolated from the metal hull .
• Never install a metal housing in a vessel with a positive ground
system.
Tools & Materials
Water-based antifouling paint ( MANDATORY IN SALT WATER )
Safety goggles
Dust mask
Electric drill with 10mm (3/8") or larger chuck capacity
Drill bit: 3mm
or 1/8"
Hole saw: 51mm or 2"
(plastic or bronze housing)
57mm or 2-1/4"
(stainless steel housing in a metal hull)
Countersink tool (installing a flush housing)
Sandpaper
Mild household detergent
or weak solvent (such as alcohol)
File (installation in a metal hull)
Marine sealant (suitable for below waterline)
Additional washer [for aluminum hull less than 6mm (1/4") thick]
Slip-joint pliers (installing a bronze housing)
Zip-ties
Installation in a cored fiberglass hull (see page 3):
Hole saw for hull interior: 60mm
or 2-3/8"
Fiberglass cloth and resin
or Cylinder, wax, tape, and casting epoxy
Fairing
Caution : Never use a fairing with a plastic housing; the protruding
multisensor would be vulnerable to damage from impact.
Record the information found on the cable tag for future reference.
Part No._________________Date___________Frequency________kHz
IMPORTANT : Please read the instructions completely
before proceeding with the installation. These
instructions supersede any other instructions in your
instrument manual if they differ.
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONSOWNER’S GUIDE &
plastic
low profile
housing
Figure 1. Antifouling paint
outside wall
paddlewheel
paddlewheel
inside bore of
exterior lip
O-ring
below lower
cavity
housing up 30mm (1-1/4")
of housing
insert
housing
exposed end
Copyright © 2006 Airmar Technology Corp.

Mounting Location
• The water flowing across the hull must be smooth with a
minimum of bubbles and turbulence (especially at high speeds).
Caution : DO NOT MOUNT near water intake or discharge
openings, or behind strakes, fittings, or hull irregularities.
• The multisensor must be continuously immersed in water.
•The transducer beam must be unobstructed by the keel or
propeller shaft(s).
•Choose a location away from interference caused by power and
radiation sources such as: the propeller(s) and shaft(s), other
machinery, other echosounders, and other cables. The lower
the noise level, the higher the echosounder gain setting that
can be used.
• Choose a location with a minimum deadrise angle, so the
transducer beam will be aimed at the bottom.
• Choose an accessible spot inside the vessel with adequate
headroom for the height of the housing, tightening the nuts, and
removing the insert. Allow a minimum of 280mm (11").
Hull Types
(see Figure 2)
• Displacement hull powerboats —Locate amidships near the
centerline. The starboard side of the hull where the propeller blades
are moving downward is preferred.
•
Planing hull powerboats —Mount well aft, on or near the centerline,
and
well inboard of the first set of lifting strakes to insure that the
multisensor will be in contact with the water at high speeds. The
starboard side of the hull where the propeller blades are moving
downward is preferred.
Outboard and I/O —Mount just forward of the engine(s).
Inboard —Mount well ahead of the propeller(s) and shaft(s).
Stepped hull —Mount just ahead of the first step.
Boat capable of speeds above 25kn (29MPH)—Review the
installation location and operating results of similar boats before
proceeding.
•
Fin keel sailboats —Mount on or as close as possible to the
centerline and forward of the fin keel 300–600mm (1–2').
•
Full keel sailboats —Locate amidships and away from the keel at
the point of minimum deadrise.
Installation
Cored fiberglass hull —Follow separate instructions on page 3.
Hole Drilling
Warning : Always wear safety goggles and a dust mask.
1. Drill a 3mm or 1/8" pilot hole from inside the hull. If there is a rib,
strut or other hull irregularity near the selected mounting
location, drill from the outside.
2. Using the appropriate size hole saw, cut a hole from outside the hull.
Flush housing —Use a countersink tool to make a “seat” in the hull.
3. Sand and clean the area around the hole, inside and outside, to
ensure that the sealant will adhere properly to the hull. If there is
any petroleum residue inside the hull, remove it with either mild
household detergent or a weak solvent (alcohol) before sanding.
Metal hull —Remove all burrs with a file and sandpaper.
Bedding
Caution : A stainless steel housing must be isolated from a metal
hull to prevent electrolytic corrosion.
Apply a 2mm (1/16") thick layer of marine sealant around the lip of
the housing that contacts the hull and up the sidewall of the
housing (see Figure 3). The sealant must extend 6mm (1/4")
higher than the combined thickness of the hull, the washer(s), and
the hull nut. This will ensure there is marine sealant in the threads
to seal the hull and to hold the hull nut securely in place.
2
planing hulls
Figure 2.
full keel sailboats
large displacement hulls small displacement hulls
fin keel sailboats
Best location for multisensor
Copyright © 2005 Airmar Technology Corp.
stepped hull
outboard and I/O
marine sealant on lip and
Figure 3. Bedding and installing
cap nut
washer
hull
plastic housing
safety wire
housing
hull nut
insert
marine sealant on lip
stainless steel housing in metal hullmetal housing in non -metal hull
isolation
ring
washer
sidewall of housing
(plastic)
marine sealant on lip
cap nut
hull
safety wire
housing
insert
(plastic)
(metal)
hull nut
Copyright © 2005, 2006 Airmar Technology Corp.
BOW ➤
and sidewall of housing and sidewall of housing and isolation ring where it contacts the hull
P17 shown B17 shown SS577 shown

Stainless steel housing in a metal hull —To isolate the stainless
steel housing from the metal hull, slide the isolation ring onto the
housing. Apply additional sealant to the surfaces of the ring that
will contact the hull, filling any cavities in and around the ring.
Installing
Caution : Never pull, carry, or hold the multisensor by the cable as
this may sever internal connections.
1. From outside the hull, push the housing into the mounting hole
using a twisting motion to squeeze out excess marine sealant
(see Figure 3). Align the arrow on the lip of the housing to point
forward toward the bow.
If the multisensor is not installed on the
centerline of the boat, angle the housing slightly toward the
centerline to align it with the water flow.
2. From inside the hull, slide the washer onto the housing.
Aluminum hull less than 6mm ( 1/4" ) thick —Use an
additional rubbery, fiberglass, or plastic washer.
Never use
bronze since electrolytic corrosion will occur. Never use wood
since it will swell, possibly fracturing the plastic housing.
Warning : Stainless steel housing in a metal hull only —Be
sure the washer contacts the hull. Do not tighten the hull nut
with the washer against the isolation ring as the housing will not
be firmly installed. If necessary, sand the isolation ring until the
washer rests against the hull.
3. Screw the hull nut in place being sure the arrow on the lip of the
housing is still positioned forward toward the bow.
Plastic housing — Do not clamp tightly on the wrenching flats,
possibly causing the housing to fracture.
Plastic hull nut —
HAND-TIGHTEN only. Do not over tighten.
Metal hull nut —Tighten with slip-joint pliers.
Cored Fiberglass Hul l— Do not over tighten, crushing the hull.
Wood hull —Allow the wood to swell before tightening the nut.
4. Remove any excess marine sealant on the outside of the hull to
ensure smooth water flow over the multisensor.
Warning: The O-rings must be intact and well lubricated to
make a watertight seal.
5. After the marine sealant cures, inspect the O-rings on the insert
(replace if necessary) and lubricate them with the silicone
lubricant supplied.
Warning : Be sure the insert is fully inserted into the housing,
and the cap nut is screwed on completely.
6. Slide the paddlewheel insert into the housing with the arrow on
the top pointing forward toward the bow . Screw the cap nut
several turns until the threads are engaged. The arrow on the
top of the insert, the cable exit, and the arrow on the lip will all
be aligned. Continue to tighten the cap nut.
Be careful not to
rotate the housing and disturb the sealant. HAND-TIGHTEN
only. Do not over tighten.
Warning : Always attach the safety wire to prevent the insert
from backing out in the unlikely event that the cap nut fails or is
screwed on incorrectly.
7. Attach the safety wire.
Plastic housing —Attach the safety wire to one eye in the hull
nut. Keeping the wire taut throughout, lead the wire in a
counterclockwise direction and thread it through one eye in the
cap nut. Thread the wire through the eye a second time. Then
lead the wire through the eye in the insert. Twist the wire
securely to itself.
Metal housing —Wrap one end of the safety wire tightly around
the housing and twist it together with the long end. Keeping the
wire taut throughout, lead the wire straight up and through one
eye in the cap nut. Thread the wire through the eye a second
time. Then lead the wire counterclockwise and through the eye
in the insert. Twist the wire securely to itself.
Caution : If your multisensor came with a connector, do not
remove it to ease cable routing. If the cable must be cut and
spliced, use Airmar’s splash-proof Junction Box No. 33-035 and
follow the instructions provided. Cutting the cable or removing
the waterproof connector, except when using Airmar’s junction
box, will void the multisensor warranty.
8. Route the cable to the instrument being careful not to tear the
cable jacket when passing it through the bulkhead(s) and other
parts of the boat. To reduce electrical interference, separate the
multisensor cable from other electrical wiring and the engine.
Coil any excess cable and secure it in place with zip-ties to
prevent damage.
9. Refer to the instrument owner’s manual to connect the
multisensor to the instrument.
Checking for Leaks
Warning : DO NOT leave the boat in the water unchecked for
several days.
When the boat is placed in the water, immediately check around
the thru-hull multisensor for leaks. Note that very small leaks may
not be readily observed. Do not leave the boat in the water for
more than 3 hours before checking it again. If there is a small
leak, there may be considerable bilge water accumulation after 24
hours. If a leak is observed, repeat “Bedding” and “Installing”
immediately (see pages 2 and 3).
Installation in a Cored Fiberglass Hull
The core (wood or foam) must be cut and sealed carefully. The
core
must be protected from water seepage, and the hull must be
reinforced to prevent it from crushing under the hull nut allowing
the housing to become loose.
Warning : Always wear safety goggles and a dust mask.
1. Drill a 3mm or 1/8" pilot hole from inside the hull. If there is a rib,
strut, or other hull irregularity near the selected mounting location,
drill from the outside. (If the hole is drilled in the wrong location,
drill a second hole in a better location. Apply masking tape to the
outside of the hull over the incorrect hole and fill it with epoxy.)
2. Using a 51mm or 2" hole saw, cut the hole from outside the hull
through the
outer skin only (see Figure 4).
3. From inside the hull, use a 60mm or 2-3/8" hole saw to cut
through the
inner skin and most of the core. The core material
can be very soft. Apply only light pressure to the hole saw after
cutting through the inner skin to avoid accidentally cutting the
outer skin.
3
Figure 4. Preparing a cored fiberglass hull
inner skin
core
outer skin
solid or hollow cylinder
pour in
casting
epoxy
9-12 mm
(3/8-1/2")
larger than the
hole through the
hull’s outer skin
hull thickness
Copyright © 2005 Airmar Technology Corp.

AIRMAR
®
TECHNOLOGY CORPORATION
35 Meadowbrook Drive, Milford, New Hampshire 03055-4613, USA
■
www.airmar.com
4Copyright © 2003, 2005, 2006 Airmar Technology Corp. All rights reserved.
4. Remove the plug of core material so the inside of the outer skin
and the inner core of the hull are fully exposed. Sand and clean
the inner skin, core, and the outer skin around the hole.
Caution: Completely seal the hull to prevent water seepage
into the core.
5. If you are skilled with fiberglass, saturate a layer of fiberglass cloth
with a suitable resin and lay it inside the hole to seal and strengthen
the core. Add layers until the hole is the correct diameter.
6. Alternatively, a hollow or solid cylinder of the correct diameter
can be coated with wax and taped in place. Fill the gap between
the cylinder and hull with casting epoxy. After the epoxy has set,
remove the cylinder.
7. Sand and clean the area around the hole, inside and outside, to
ensure that the sealant will adhere properly to the hull. If there is
any petroleum residue inside the hull, remove it with either mild
household detergent or a weak solvent (alcohol) before sanding.
8. Proceed with “Bedding” and “Installing” (see pages 2 and 3).
Maintenance,Parts & Replacement
Using the Blanking Plug
To protect the paddlewheel, use the blanking plug:
•When the boat will be kept in salt water for more than a week.
• When the boat will be removed from the water.
• When aquatic growth buildup on the paddlewheel is suspected
due to inaccurate readings from the instrument.
Warning: The O-rings must be intact and well lubricated to
make a watertight seal.
1. On the blanking plug, inspect the O-rings (replace if necessary)
and lubricate them with the silicone lubricant supplied or
petroleum jelly (Vaseline®) (see Figure 5).
2. Remove the insert from the housing by removing the safety wire and
unscrewing the cap nut (see Figure 3). This will jack out the insert.
3. With the blanking plug ready in one hand, pull the insert most of
the way out. Remove the insert and rapidly replace it with the
blanking plug. With practice, only 250ml (10oz.) of water will
enter the boat.
Warning: Be sure the blanking plug is fully inserted into the
housing, and the cap nut is screwed on completely.
4. Screw the cap nut several turns until the threads are engaged.
Continue to tighten the cap nut.
HAND-TIGHTEN only. Do not
over tighten.
Warning: Always attach the safety wire to prevent the blanking
plug from backing out in the unlikely event that the cap nut fails
or is screwed on incorrectly.
5. Reattach the safety wire.
Servicing the Insert
Aquatic growth can accumulate rapidly on the depth transducer’s
surface and impede or freeze the paddlewheel’s rotation reducing
performance within weeks. Clean the insert with a Scotch-Brite®
scour pad and mild household detergent,
being careful to avoid
scratching the depth transducer. If fouling is severe, remove the
paddlewheel (see step #1 below). Lightly wet sand it with fine
grade wet/dry paper.
The water lubricated paddlewheel bearings have a life of up to 5
years on low-speed boats [less than 10kn (11MPH)] and 1 year on
high-speed vessels. Paddlewheels can fracture and shafts can
bend due to impact with water borne objects and mishandling in
boat yards. O-rings
must be free of abrasions and cuts to ensure a
watertight seal. Order a replacement Paddlewheel Kit 33-398-04.
1. To remove the old paddlewheel shaft, grasp the end with small
diagonal wire cutters and pull (see Figure 5).
2. Place the new paddlewheel in the cavity with the flat side of the
blade facing the same direction as the arrow on the top of the
insert.
3. Tap the new shaft into place until the end is flush with the
outside wall of the insert.
4. Install a large O-ring near the top of the insert. Install a small
O-ring near the paddlewheel.
5. Place the remaining two O-rings near the bottom of the
blanking plug.
Winterizing
After the boat has been hauled for winter storage, remove the
blanking plug to let the water drain away before reinserting it. This
will prevent any water from freezing around the blanking plug and
possibly cracking it.
Replacement Parts
Lost, broken, or worn parts should be replaced immediately.
Obtain parts from your instrument manufacturer or marine dealer.
Gemeco (USA) Tel: [phone]
Fax: [phone]
email: [e-mail]
Airmar Europe Tel: [phone]
Fax: [phone]
email: [email protected]
If you have purchased a plastic housing and have a wood hull or
desire greater strength, purchase an Airmar metal housing.
Multisensor Replacement—The information needed to order a
replacement Airmar multisensor is printed on the cable tag.
Do
not
remove this tag. When ordering, specify the part number,
date, and frequency in kHz. For convenient reference, record this
information on the top of page one.
Blanking
Plug
Hull Nut or
Isolation Ring
Paddlewheel,
Shaft & O-rings Housing, Nut & Washer
33-538-01
04-004 (plastic)
02-030 (bronze)
02-570-01 (stainless steel)
04-186-1 (isolation ring)
33-398-04
33-417 (plastic, P17)
33-100 (bronze, B17)
33-495-01 (stainless
steel SS577)
Figure 5. Replacing the paddlewheel and O-rings
arrow
flat side
of blade
shaft
blanking pluginsert
faces bow
large
O-ring
small
O-ring (s)
Copyright © 2006 Airmar Technology Corp.
BOW ➤