Almost Heaven Saunas Phoenix Operating instructions

Phoenix Barrel Sauna
Installation & Owner’s
Manual
In addition to reading this manual through to the end before proceeding with assembly
you may find our instruction video helpful.
You can find it at: youtube.com/user/almostheavensauna

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Read this entire manual through to the end before proceeding with the assembly.
Congratulations on your purchase of an Almost Heaven barrel sauna! The barrel sauna is unique to Almost Heaven, and has been
our most popular product for over 40 years. We are delighted you have decided to partake in the sauna tradition!
A WORD ABOUT BARREL SAUNAS
Our sauna kits are designed for ease of assembly by the customer, and every attempt has been made to make assembly information
as clear as possible.
For further guidance on assembly, please visit our YouTube channel at youtube.com/user/almostheavensauna.
If you have any questions about assembly, please do not hesitate to call us at 888-355-3050, or send us an email at
[email protected].
Thank you again for choosing Almost Heaven. We are grateful for your business and know you will have many years of enjoyment in
your barrel sauna!
Your Almost Heaven barrel is designed for outdoor use although it is perfectly fine to use it indoors. The lumber is naturally resistant
to the elements. Rain and sun will not damage the wood, although natural weathering and coloring of the wood will occur over time.
To preserve the initial look of the sauna, you may choose to stain the exterior with a UV inhibiting stain. Consult your local paint
store for their recommendations on a particular stain for your sauna. We do not recommend that you paint or varnish your sauna.
Properly assembled, you should not experience water dripping in the sauna. You may experience water seepage, particularly on the
top and sides of the sauna. This is due to the porous nature of softwoods as well as the tongue and groove design of the staves.
Water seepage or leakage will NOT harm the sauna and in most cases will evaporate quickly in the hot, dry interior. If you wish to
completely waterproof your sauna, we suggest covering it with a shelter or structure with a roof. Alternately, you may purchase an
Almost Heaven rain jacket, which covers the top of your barrel sauna.
Your barrel sauna will include the following:
One full box of staves
Drain stave
Filler stave
Two barrel end sections (two end panels)
Heater and mounting hardware, which are found in the heater box enclosed in the bag containing plaques
Stones
Hardware bag
Doorknob assembly
Two benches
Two backrests
Six bench brackets
Six bench braces
Four Banding assembly’s
Cradles
ELECTRICAL REQUIREMENTS
All electrical wiring must be performed by A QUALIFIED LICENSED ELECTRICIAN. Costs of an electrician can vary greatly depending
on several factors, including your sauna’s distance from your electrical service box, where you live and cost of materials. We always
recommend you get quotes from two to three different licensed electricians before you begin installation in order to get the best
possible service and price.
Use copper wire with 90C insulation. Do not use aluminum wire to make the connection. Consult with an electrician so you can
determine the requirements for your particular situation. All wiring must conform to all national, state and local codes and
regulations. For further information and instruction on your heater installation and operation, please consult the provided heater
manual.
LOCATING THE SAUNA
Because the traditional sauna experience involves a heating-cooling-resting regimen, it is important to plan ahead before installing
your sauna. Our method of construction allows you to place your barrel sauna in a wide variety of settings.

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Figure 1
Figure 2
Figure 4
Figure 5
Figure 3
Be sure the surface is firm and level, and can support the weight of the sauna and its users (1,000+ lbs). A deck or concrete slab is
certainly an option, but if your sauna sits directly on the ground, be sure the cradle supports rest on paver stones or something
similar to prevent the cradles from settling into the ground.
BASIC TOOLS
These tools are helpful in the assembly of your barrel sauna:
• Cordless drill & ½” drill bit
• Rubber mallet
• Hammer
• Framing square
• Screwdrivers (Phillips and flathead)
• Utility knife
• Level
• Wrench
• Pneumatic nail gun (optional)
FIRST CONSIDERATIONS
Before beginning assembly, ensure that the installation surface is level. Many garage, basement or deck floors are sloped for
drainage. A slight slope will not be an issue, but a more pronounced slope will require shimming to make the sauna level. An uneven
installation surface can result in poor-fitting staves leading to poor sauna function. Also, if the site might receive heavy winds, it is
recommended extra precautions are taken to ensure the door does not blow open. In most situations, this factor will not be a
concern.
Unpack all staves. Identify the drain stave (it will have one or more drainage holes bored into it). This will be the bottommost and
first stave used.
FLOOR ASSEMBLY
Begin assembly by placing the two end cradles on the ground, space the remaining cradle evenly between the two
end cradles (1). For optimal assembly, it is important that the cradles are parallel to each other. Fasten the drain stave
directly in the center of the cradles using 2” screws, and so the stave extends over the end cradles by approximately
4”-5” (2-4). Note: When installing screws on drain stave, try to position them so they are between the two sets of
bolts in the cradle. (5).

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Figure 6
Figure 7
Figure 8
Figure 9
Figure 10
Make sure the stave sits perpendicular to the cradles with framing square before continuing. Continue adding staves
to each side of the center stave, tapping each into place with a rubber mallet (6).
Note: If you have access to a pneumatic nailer this process will go faster.
As you are adding staves, fasten every other stave to each cradle making sure each notch lines up with the others and that each
stave is perpendicular to the cradles (7). While fastening, apply slight pressure on the stave so it makes contact with the
adjoining stave. Repeat this process until staves fill the cradles (8).
Position the front and back ends in the notches, with the horizontal support boards facing the inside of the sauna (9-
10).
Note: the metal vents are to be on the bottom on the back end. The front end panel can be position so the
door swings in the direction of your liking.
Place a level on the uppermost horizontal support boards on the front and back ends to ensure each end is level (11).
Adjust as necessary. Figure (12) shows what your assembly should look like at this point of the installation process.
You will find it helpful to place a temporary stave at the top, connecting the two ends. This will align and stabilize the
two ends while you continue adding staves to your sauna.

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Figure 11
Figure 12
Figure 13
Figure 14
ROOM ASSEMBLY
With the front and back pieces level and placed, begin placing staves up the sides of the sauna. Tap each board with a
rubber mallet to ensure a snug fit (13). Hammer a 2” nail through every second or third stave into the front and back
end panels to keep them from falling out. The fewer nails you use, the easier disassembly will be should you ever
need to take down the sauna. Periodically set the level on the staves to check that they are level (14). Stop using nails
about halfway up the sides (15-16).

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Figure 15
Figure 16
Figure 17
Note: at this point in the installation, you may find it helpful to tie a loose rope or strap around your sauna. Continue
placing staves, tapping them in place with a rubber mallet (17). Do not nail the remaining staves in place.
When you arrive to the point of closing the room, you may find that the remaining space will not accommodate a full-
size stave (18). We have provided a set of filler staves cut into various widths (19). Choose the necessary combination
of filler staves to provide the tightest fit. Use the fillers with the ball, socket and then place any required additional
fillers between these pieces. Install the filler staves by tilting the adjacent staves up, insert and mallet in the filler
staves, and push them all back into place (20). It is important that you use as many staves and fillers as you can prior
to tightening the stainless-steel bands in order to ensure the tightest seal possible. It is recommended that you insert
enough filler staves so that some of the staves between the 10 – 2 position actually “lift off” the front and rear end
panels. In other words, the radius of that the staves create will actually be slightly larger than the radius of the barrel
end panels. This will ensure the tightest seal possible when the bands are tightened.

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Figure 18
Figure 19
Figure 20
Figure 21
Figure 22 Figure 23
Figure 24 Figure 25
BAND ASSEMBLY
Each band assembly includes the following components:
• Stainless steel band w/brackets
• ½” nuts (2)
• Threaded rod
• Black vinyl caps
Position a band around both end panels. (The two end bands should cover the nails used to hold the lower staves in
place.) Insert the threaded rod through the bracket and tighten the nuts by hand evenly until no longer able (21).
Before continuing to tighten, verify the bands are evenly spaced (approximately 3” from stave end) and align or
stagger the bracket placement along the side of the sauna according to personal preference (22). Tighten nuts evenly
and place vinyl caps over the threaded rod (23-24). Place middle two bands following the same procedure. Space
them evenly between the outer two bands, approximately 32” from stave ends (25).

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Figure 26
Figure 27
Figure 28
Figure 29 Figure 30
Figure 31 Figure 32
BENCHES AND SUPPORTS
Locate a set of bench brackets and braces (26). The front and rear brackets will be 7” in from the end panel (27). Set
you level on the top of a bench bracket and slide it up the wall until it is level, and 7” from end panel (28). While
holding in place, mark the center of all three holes (29). Set bracket to the side, and drill three holes using ½” drill bit
(30). NOTE: HOLES MUST BE DRILLED PERPENDICULAR TO THE WALL SO THE BRACKET ON THE OUTSIDE
ALIGNS. On the outside of the unit, push the bolts through the brace so they go into the sauna and through bench
bracket (31). Bolts may need slight tap from rubber mallet to go through wood and brackets. Once bolts are through
the holes in the bracket, apply a washer then fully tighten the nut (32).

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Figure 33
Figure 34
Figure 35
Figure 36
Figure 37
Figure 38
Figure 39
For the middle bench bracket, measure 41” from the back wall and make two marks to ensure bracket is vertical
(33,34). Place the bench on outer two brackets and place middle bracket so the edge is on the 41” mark, and the top
is touching the bottom of the bench (35). Mark the bottom of the bracket, and lift bench up out of the way. Using the
side marks and bottom mark, place the bracket in place and mark center holes (29). Repeat previous process to drill,
and fasten bracket (30-32,36).
Place bench down centered on three brackets and attach using provided screws in fifteen predrilled holes in brackets
(36). Repeat this process for opposite side bench.
Back Rest
Mount the backrests at the level most comfortable to you, typically 8-12” above the bench. Use a level while fastening
to ensure an even installation (38-39).

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Figure 40
Figure 41
Figure 42
Figure 43
Figure 44
Figure 45
Figure 46
LED LIGHT
Locate the two LED mounting brackets, they should come attached to the light bar (40). Remove them from the light
bar and using supplied hardware, place a screw and three washers through each one (41). Attach in the center of the
middle slat, approximately 5-6” inside of the bench braces (42).
Clip LED light bar into two installed clips so it is snug and centered. Route wire using supplied cable clips and route
plug out of hole in back panel (43-44).
Connect the light bar plug to the power supply plug, and then twist the cover to secure them together (45). Using the
provided screws, mount your waterproof power supply where it is most convenient on the exterior of the back sauna
panel (46). Repeat for light bar under second bench. Plug the power source into a standard 110V outlet either directly
or with an extension cord. You may also wish to have your electrician hardwire the light to a 110V circuit.

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Figure 47
Figure 48
Figure 49
Figure 50
Figure 51 Figure 52
Figure 53
Figure 54 Figure 55
Install Door Handle
Open door handle package and lay out the pieces of the door handle, you will also need a phillips screwdriver for
installation (47). Install both wood spacers into wooden handle (48). Insert screw, metal spacer and plastic spacer over
screw (49-50). Insert screw through the top hole in the glass from the inside, so the wooden handle is inside the unit
(51). Now place the plastic spacer and metal spacer over the screw. Mate the metal handle to the screw on the
outside of the unit, and partially tighten screw (52). Swing handle to the side to access screw (53). Repeat process
from above by applying metal spacer and plastic spacer over screw. Push screw through bottom hole in the glass, and
swing the metal handle out to apply both spacers (54). Partially tighten bottom screw; make sure handle is straight
from top to bottom and finish tightening screws to complete installation (55).

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FINAL THINGS
Once assembly is complete, sweep and vacuum the inside of the sauna. Wipe down the entire interior with a damp
cloth to remove any remaining dirt, dust and debris.
Note: If the sauna has absorbed moisture in storage, the staves may shrink as the high heat evaporates that moisture.
This may require you to tighten the bands even further. If your sauna is left in the open rain, this will cause the staves
to expand again resulting in an even tighter seal.
Note: It is highly recommended to treat the exterior window and door trim pieces with an exterior grade stain or
sealant of your choice.
HEATER - Please see heater manual.
TRADITIONAL SAUNA USE
Congratulations! You are ready to enjoy your barrel sauna! You may use your sauna in a wet or dry fashion. Dry,
meaning you do not sprinkle any water onto the stones; wet, meaning you increase the humidity of the room by
sprinkling water on the stones. Please note, not much water is needed to achieve a wet sauna experience.
The sauna as we know it originates in Finland. The typical sauna experience follows the steps below, but you may
enjoy your sauna in any way you like!
• Set your heater so your sauna achieves the desired temperature. This is typically 160 -185+ degrees F. Novice
sauna users should begin at the lower end of that range and increase their high temperature over time.
• Take a quick shower or a quick dip in a hot tub or pool.
• Step into the sauna and enjoy for 5-15 minutes, bringing a towel to sit or lay on. Leave the sauna once you are
perspiring freely.
• Take a plunge in a pool, shower, snowbank, lake - anything that will cool you down! After that, relax and cool
down for 10-20 minutes.
• Step into the sauna again. During this visit, you may wish to sprinkle small amounts of water onto the stones to
create bursts of steam. If water spills through the heater to the floor, you are using too much water, though this
will not hurt the heater or the sauna.
• Continue repeating this process. After your final visit to your sauna, relax for at least 20 minutes. Shower with
warm water initially, finishing with cool water to close your skin pores.
• Prepare to feel refreshed for the day or to have an amazing night’s sleep!
Whatever your sauna routine, it is imperative that you STAY HYDRATED!
Optional accessories for your sauna, including a back
rest, robe hook and much more are available at
almostheaven.com/sauna-accessories/.